Swiss Cottage, Ardfinnan Road, Cahir, County Tipperary:
General Information: 052 744 1144, swisscottage@opw.ie
From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/swiss-cottage/:
“The Swiss Cottage, just outside the heritage town of Cahir, is a cottage orné – a fanciful realisation of an idealised countryside cottage used for picnics, small soirees and fishing and hunting parties and was also a peaceful retreat for those who lived in the nearby big house.
“Built in the early 1800s [around 1810] by Richard Butler, 1st Earl of Glengall, who, we believe, managed to persuade world-famous Regency architect John Nash to design it [he also designed Buckingham Palace for the Crown]. Originally, simply known as “The Cottage” it appears to have acquired its present name because it was thought to resemble an Alpine cottage.
“Inside, there is a graceful spiral staircase and some exquisitely decorated rooms. The wallpaper is partly original and partly the fruit of a 1980s restoration project, in which the renowned fashion designer Sybil Connolly was responsible for the interiors.“
We visited the Swiss Cottage in June 2022. The guide told us that the Glengalls probably never even spent a night in their cottage! They used it for entertaining. They lived in the town of Cahir, in what is now Cahir House Hotel, a house that was more comfortable than Cahir Castle, which they also owned.
Richard Butler (1775-1819) 1st Earl of Glengall was the 12th Baron Caher. He was the illegitimate son of James Butler, 11th Baron Caher (d. 1788). The Butlers sent him away with his mother to France to prevent his ever learning of his noble lineage and claims to his family’s title.
His father succeeded his distant cousin Piers Butler (1726-1788) as 11th Baron Caher, as Piers had no offspring. However, the 11th Baron died suddenly the following month with no legitimate son, so Richard became the rightful heir to the title. Unaware of his inheritance, he grew up in poverty in a garret in Paris, where his mother was obliged to winnow corn and occasionally beg for subsistence. [1]
One day Arabella Jefferyes née Fitzgibbon, sister of the Lord Chancellor John Fitzgibbon, wife of James St John Jefferyes of Blarney Castle, Co. Cork, was passing through Cahir and heard about the illegitimate son of the 11th Baron Caher. She determined to go to Paris to find the young man!
She managed to find him and brought him back to Ireland. Probably with the assistance of her brother, she brought the case before the courts and succeeded in having Richard declared the rightful heir of the Caher title and estate. This must have been a large fortune, for she then arranged to have her youngest daughter Emily, who was eight years his senior, marry the newly discovered Lord Caher, despite the fact that Richard Butler was not yet of an age to be married, being just 18 years old. The Lord Chancellor was furious and threatened to put his sister in gaol! However, he did not, and the marriage was allowed.
The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that Richard, probably under pressure from his mother-in-law, renounced his Catholicism and converted to the established church. He was accepted readily into society, and became governor of County Tipperary and a trustee of the board of the linen manufacturers. [see 1].
Richard was a representative peer (baron) in the UK parliament from 1801, and was created Viscount Caher and Earl of Glengall on 22 January 1816. He remained till his death a loyal supporter of the government and regularly voted against any pro-Catholic proposals, the Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us.
A Swiss Cottage, or cottage ornee, was the ultimate in impressive entertainment. It was meant to look like it had grown from the ground, and it was designed deliberately off-kilter and asymmetrical with different windows, wavy rooves, oddly shaped rooms. Even the expensive floorboards were painted to look like they were made of a cheaper wood!
The National Inventory describes it:
“The building, constructed as an architectural toy, was used as a lodge for entertainment purposes and was designed specifically to blend with nature. The roof pitches and tosses and varies in length while differing window sizes and openings punctuate it. The verandah and balconies, although luxury features, have been fashioned to appear humble with exposed rustic tree trunk pillars. The asymmetrical design of the cottage, although immediately apparent of architectural detailing, is deliberately flawed and distorted to appear unsophisticated. Both the building and its setting right down to its cast-iron rustic fencing maintains a sense of blending with nature as it was originally designed.” [2]
Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photographs inside. I took a few photographs looking through the windows. There are a few photographs on the OPW website, which I copy here.
Downstairs has a room off either side of the hallway, the Dufour Room and the Music Room. The Dufour room is so called due to some original Dufour wallpaper, depicting Constantinople, much of which has been reproduced to line the room. Dufour was one of the first Parisian manufacturers creating commercially produced wallpaper. Another door from the central hall leads to a limestone stairway and basement.
The first floor interior comprises a landing with rooms leading directly to the west (Small bedroom) and east (Master bedroom) through angular-headed timber panelled doors.
Every window has a different shape.
Walking under the balcony one is embraced with the glorious scent of the roses and other flowers.
Richard and Emily had one son and three daughters. His son Richard, Viscount Caher (b. 17 May 1794), was elected MP for Tipperary county in 1818, and succeeded his father as 2nd Earl of Glengall. Emily survived Richard by seventeen years, passing away (2 May 1836) in Grosvenor Square, Middlesex. [see 1]
[1] https://www.dib.ie/biography/butler-richard-a1286
https://archiseek.com/2013/swiss-cottage-cahir-co-tipperary
1814 – Swiss Cottage, Cahir, Co. Tipperary
Architect: John Nash
A “cottage orné” built in the early 1800s by Richard Butler, 1st Earl of Glengall to a design by the famous Regency architect John Nash. The house was not designed to be lived in, but as somewhere to entertain. Started in 1810, andcompleted around 1814.
The cottage was in a state of disrepair up to the mid 1980s, but was then taken in charge by the State and fully refurbished to its original specifications. The interior contains a graceful spiral staircase and some elegantly decorated rooms. The wallpaper in the Salon manufactured by the Dufour factory is one of the first commercially produced Parisian wallpapers.
in Irish Castles and Historic Houses by Brendan O’Neill
was built in 1810 for the young society couple, Richard Butler, Lord Cahir, and his wife Emily. They succeeded in attracting the well-known English architect John Nash, to come to Ireland to design the building, which he followed two years later with the King’s Cottage in Windsor Park. The music room has original wallpaper depicting scenes on the Bosphorus.
https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/08/15/pretty-as-a-picture/
The thatched lodge at Derrymore, County Armagh featured here some time ago (see The Most Elegant Summer Lodge « The Irish Aesthete). That building dates from the mid-1770s, making it at least 30 years older than another fanciful cottage orné, this one in County Tipperary. Popularly known as the Swiss Cottage, the later example was constructed c.1810 for Richard Butler, 10th Baron Caher (created Earl of Glengall 1816). Member of a branch of the Butler family which had been dominant in this part of the country for hundreds of years, his own forebears had been settled at Cahir Castle since the 14th century. They remained there until c.1770 when a new residence, Cahir House (now an hotel) was built. Richard Butler was never expected to inherit the title and associated estate. However, following the death in June 1788 of the 8th baron, a distant relative, without heirs – and then the death of Richard Butler’s own father a month later – at the age of just 12 he came into considerable wealth. At the time, he was living in poverty in France, but then returned to Ireland, where he was accommodated by the eccentric widow Arabella Jeffereyes of Blarney Castle. There was method behind Mrs Jeffereyes kindness: within a few years, she had arranged the marriage of her daughter Emilia (then aged just 16) to the wealthy Lord Caher. Soon afterwards the couple returned to live at Cahir House where, according to Dorothea Herbert, they threw ‘a most flaming Fête Champêtre’ during which the young Lady Caher ‘danced an Irish jig in her stockings to the music of an old piper. We had a superb supper in the three largest rooms, all crowded as full as they could hold and we did not get home till eight o’clock next morning and so slept all the next day.’
The tone set by the party they had thrown after their return to Cahir House, the Butlers appear to have led an exceedingly merry life, dividing their time between County Tipperary and London where, following the implementation of the Act of Union, Lord Caher served as an Irish representative peer in the Westminster House of Lords. It may have been there that he made the acquaintance of architect John Nash, who would be responsible for designing a number of buildings in Cahir, including St Paul’s church (Figures of Mystery « The Irish Aesthete) and the adjacent Erasmus Smith School (Well Schooled « The Irish Aesthete) as well as the sadly-demolished Shanbally Castle just a few miles away. Accordingly, the Swiss Cottage is attributed to Nash, not least because of its resemblance to similar picturesque buildings he designed during the same period at Blaise Hamlet on the outskirts of Bristol. The cottage was sketched in 1814, indicating its completion by that date, and two years later was mentioned in an account of local races: ‘the tout ensemble of the Cottage affording a display of rural decoration not easy to be equalled in this country for chasteness of character and richness of fancy.’ Perched above the river Suir and just two kilometres south of Cahir, the cottage was never intended to be a permanent residence, but rather somewhere to visit, perhaps for a meal, perhaps an overnight stay in good weather. Built to a T-plan and of two storeys over basement, the cottage has rustic timber verandas around most of its exterior and a thatched roof. French windows open onto the surrounding grounds and there are a number of balconies on the first floor: much of the exterior is covered in wooden lattice trellising. The overall effect is exceedingly charming.
Three years after becoming an earl, Richard Butler died and was succeeded by his only son, also called Richard. Despite marrying an heiress, he would find expenditure exceeded income, particularly after 1839 when he embarked on the restoration of Cahir Castle, and the rebuilding of much of the town of Cahir. In the aftermath of the Great Famine, it transpired that Lord Glengall’s debts amounted to a prodigious £300,000, the situation not helped by a lawsuit over their inheritance between Lady Glengall and her sister. The earl was duly declared bankrupt in 1849 and everything offered for sale, although some of the estate was subsequently recovered by his elder daughter, Lady Margaret Charteris. Somehow, the Swiss Cottage survived, although by the mid-1980s it was in poor condition, sitting empty and a prey to vandals. Before the building became a complete ruin, the local community bought it in 1985 with the aid of a £10,000 grant from the Irish Georgian Society. Work then began on salvaging the Swiss Cottage and the greater part of the funds for this project came, via the IGS, from the American Port Royal Foundation and its President Mrs Christian Aall (the foundation had already donated money towards the cottage’s purchase). Restoration work took three years to complete, overseen by architect Austin Dunphy assisted by John Redmill, with much of the labour provided under a government youth training scheme. New tree trunk posts were put up to support the shingled roof that surrounds the cottage at first floor level, later internal partitions removed and new wiring and plumbing installed. The building was re-thatched, and early 19th century wallpapers, not least a set in the salon by Joseph Dufour of Paris depicting Les Rives du Bosphore, scrupulously restored by David Skinner. Irish couturier Sybil Connolly was given responsibility for overseeing the interior decoration and arranged for a set of grotto chairs to be made for the ground floor rooms. Work on the Swiss Cottage was completed in September 1989 and the building has since been open to the public under the management of the Office of Public Works.
Irish Historic Houses 