Leinster House, Dublin

We visited Leinster House, the seat of Irish Government, during Open House Dublin 2025. We were lucky to get tickets! Open House Dublin events book out almost immediately.

Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Leinster House was built from 1745-1752 for James Fitzgerald (1722-1773) 20th Earl of Kildare and first Duke of Leinster.

James Fitzgerald (1722-1773) 20th Earl of Kildare later 1st Duke of Leinster, by Robert Hunter c. 1803, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

James’s father, Robert FitzGerald (1675-1744) 19th Earl of Kildare, made Carton in County Kildare his principal seat and employed Richard Castle (1690-1751) from 1739 to enlarge and improve the house (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/06/04/carton-house-county-kildare-a-hotel/ ). Before that, the Earl of Kildare had lived in Kilkea Castle in County Kildare.

Kilkea Castle, County Kildare. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

After the destruction of Maynooth Castle, occupied by Earls of Kildare, in 1641, George, 14th Earl of Kildare, resided at Kilkea Castle from 1647-1660, and it continued as the family’s principal seat until Robert, the 19th Earl, built Carton House. [1]

Robert, 19th Earl of Kildare (1675-1744) after Frederick Graves, courtesy of Adam’s auction 15th Oct 2019. Robert FitzGerald, (1675 – 1744) was married to Mary O Brien, daughter of William O’Brien 3rd Earl of Inchiquin. They had 12 children but only 2 survived to majority. They had lived quietly at Kilkea Castle, near Athy, but in 1739 Robert bought back the lease of Carton, in Maynooth, for £8,000. He commissioned Richard Castle, the eminent architect, to reconstruct the existing house. In the pediment over the South front, previously the main entrance, is the coat of arms of Robert FitzGerald and his wife Mary O’Brien. Robert also employed the La Franchini brothers to construct the wonderful ceiling in the Gold Salon. The additions to Carton were not finished when Robert died in 1744 but he left instructions in his will to finish the restoration according to his plans. A monument dedicated to Robert FitzGerald is situated in Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin. (This portrait hung in Carton until 1949 when the Fitzgerald family sold the estate. It hung in Kilkea Castle until 1960. It was in the FitzGerald family collection in Oxfordshire until 2013.)

The 20th Earl, James, employed Richard Castle from 1745 to build him a new house in the city, which is now called Leinster House, and began to be so called around 1766 when James Fitzgerald was created Duke of Leinster. He was told that this was not a fashionable area to build, as at that time most of the upper classes lived on the north side of the Liffey around Mountjoy Square and Henrietta Street. He was confident that where he led, fashion would follow, and indeed he was correct.

The garden front, which was the original front, of Carton House, County Kildare, also designed by Richard Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, July 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The building as it was originally constructed is a double cube of granite on the east and north fronts and Ardbraccan limestone on the west entrance front. It has a forecourt on the Kildare Street side, which Christine Casey tells us in her Dublin volume of the Pevsner series The Buildings of Ireland is in the French seventeenth century manner, which probably derived via Burlington House in London, a house which would have influenced Richard Castle. The form is Palladian, an eleven bay block of three storeys over basement with a “tetrastyle” (i.e. supported by four columns) Corinthian portico over advanced and rusticated central bays. “Rustication” in masonry is a decorative feature achieved by cutting back the edges of stones to a plane surface while leaving the central portion of the face either rough or projecting markedly, emphasising the blocks. [2]

Casey points to the unusual arrangement of pediments on the windows of the first floor, as an alternating pattern would be the norm, rather than the pairs of segmental (i.e. rounded) pediments flanked by single triangular pediments in the bays to either side of the central three windows. [see 2]

Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The centre block has a balustraded balcony, and the attic and ground floor windows have lugged architraves: the architrave is the classical moulding around the window and “lug” means ear, so the windows have “ears,” otherwise called shoulders. The term “Lugs” was made famous as a nickname for a policeman in the Dublin Liberties, “Lugs” Branigan, a man known for his sticking-out ears. A heavyweight boxing champion, he had a reputation as the country’s toughest and bravest garda. The ground floor windows have are topped with a further cornice – a horizontal decorative moulding.

Originally, Casey writes, the house was linked to the side walls of the forecourt by low five-bay screen walls with Doric colonneads and central doorcases flanked by paired niches. The colonnade was given a pilastered upper storey in the nineteenth century, and was rebuilt in the 1950s when the colonnade was filled in, Casey explains. The lower storey on the left side when facing the building (north side) still has the colonnade: you can compare the stages of building the colonnades in the pictures below. In fact this colonnade was reinstated after being filled in. It was recently (when written before 2005) reinstated, Casey tells us, by Paul Arnold Architects, and topped with the nineteenthy century screen wall above which we see today.

Design for Leinster House by Richard Castle 1745, courtesy of Irish Architectural Archive.
What remains of the original colonnades on either side of the main house. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Malton drawing of Leinster House.
Leinster House, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

In the Malton drawing of Leinster house we can see that the side walls of the forecourt had pedimented arches. The present piers, wrought iron gates and railings were added in the 1880s, built by T.N. & T.M. Deane.

The present piers, wrought iron gates and railings were added in the 1880s, built by T.N. & T.M. Deane. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: it was one of three houses of the Fitzgeralds and the Duke of Leinster, along with Carton at Maynooth and Black Rock (later Frascati).

To the south of the forecourt lay a stable court, with a stable and coach house block and a kitchen block which was linked to the house by a small yard, which must have been very inconvenient when dinner was served!

The garden front is fully rusticated on the ground floor, with advanced two-bay ends.

Leinster House, Dublin,the side facing Merrion Square. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, the Merrion Square facing side, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The central first floor window has a triangular pediment. The door porch was added in the nineteenth century. The lawn lay on property leased from Viscount Fitzwilliam.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. It was designed by Richard Castle (1690-1751) with later input from Isaac Ware (1704-1786) and Thomas Owen (d. 1788). Here we see the location of the Main Hall, Supper Room and Parlour and Drawing room on first floor, Picture Gallery and principal bedrooms on second floor and Nursery and children’s and staff rooms on third floor. There is a separate kitchen and stores block and stable block.

James’s father died in 1744 before his house at Carton was complete, so it was finished for James the 20th Earl. James was the second son of his parents the 19th Earl and his wife Mary (d. 1780), eldest daughter of William O’Brien, 3rd Earl of Inchiquin. His elder brother died in 1740.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that James’s political career began on 17 October 1741, when (then known as Lord Offaly) he entered the Irish house of commons as member for Athy. In 1744 he moved to the House of Lords after he inherited the earldom. [3] It was then that he embarked on his town house in Dublin. Now the houses of parliament are located next to Leinster house, but at the time, they were located in what is now the Bank of Ireland on College Green in Dublin.

Parliament House, Dublin, with the House of Commons dome on fire, 27th February 1792.
Parliament Buildings Bank of Ireland, College Green, Dublin, between ca. 1865-1914, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
House of Lords, Parliament Building, Bank of Ireland, Dublin, between ca. 1865-1914, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography continues:

His seniority in the peerage, popularity, and electoral interests ensured his appointment to the privy council (12 May 1746). He was made an English peer, Viscount Leinster of Taplow, Bucks. (1 February 1747), and appointed lord justice (11 May 1756). Master general of the ordnance (1758–66), he became major-general (11 November 1761) and lieutenant-general (30 March 1770). He was also promoted through the Irish peerage, becoming marquis of Kildare (19 March 1761) and duke of Leinster (26 November 1766).” [see 3]

James married Emilia Mary Lennox (1731-1814) in 1747, two years after Richard Castle began work on James’s townhouse. She was the daughter of General Charles Lennox, 2nd Duke of Richmond. Her grandfather the 1st Duke of Richmond was an illegitimate son of King Charles II of England. Emilia’s sister Louisa (1743-1821) married Thomas Conolly (d. 1803) and lived next to her sister in Carton, at Castletown in County Kildare (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/03/15/castletown-house-and-parklands-celbridge-county-kildare-an-office-of-public-works-property/

Emily Fitzgerald née Lennox (1731-1814) Duchess of Leinster 1770s by Joshua Reynolds.
This terrific portrait of William Conolly (1662-1729) of Castletown, County Kildare is in the dining room.

Richard Castle died in 1751 before the town house was complete. He died at Carton, the Earl of Kildare’s country seat, while writing a letter with instructions to a carpenter at Leinster house. Isaac Ware stepped in to finish the house. An exhibition about Leinster House in the Irish Archictural Archive explains that following the death of Richard Castle in 1751, little further about the building is recorded until 1759. By this time, English architect Isaac Ware, famous for his A Complete Body of Architecture published in 1756, had become involved with the project. The Fitzgeralds began to use the house in 1753 while work on the interior continued.

Inside, the house has a double height entrance hall with an arcaded screen of Doric pillars toward the back which opens onto a transverse corridor that divides the front and rear ranges. I found the hall hard to capture in a photograph, especially as we were part of a tour group. The hall reminded me of the double height entrance hall of Castletown, and indeed Christine Casey notes in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin that the plan and dimensions of Leinster House relate directly to those of Castletown house in County Kildare, which was built in 1720s for William Conolly, and which was probably, she writes, built under the direction of Edward Lovett Pearce, possibly with the assistance of Richard Castle. [2]

The double height entrance hall of Leinster House with its arcaded screen of pillars. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

It is the double height that reminds me of the great hall in Castletown, although Castletown has a gallery and Leinster house does not. The niches remind me of the similar front hall in Gloster house in County Offaly, which although a private family home, in 2025 is a Section 482 property which you can visit on particular days.

The black and white flooring is original to the house. [see 2] The red marble doorframe was added later.

Portraits of Arthur Griffith, William T. Cosgrave and Michael Collins. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Great Hall, Castletown House, Celbridge, Co Kildare, photograph by Sonder Visuals 2022 for Failte Ireland.
Gloster, February 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The coffered ceiling in the Hall in Leinster house is different from the ceilings in the front hall in Castletown or Gloster. The deep coffered cove rises to a plain framed flat panel with central foliated boss. There is an entablature above the Doric columns around the four sides of the hall. The square ovolo framed niches above have statues and above the main door the niches have windows.

Portraits of Eamon de Valera, Michael D. Higgins and Cathal Brugha. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The chimneypiece in the front hall, Casey tells us, was originally faced with a pedimented niche on the north wall opposite, flanked by the doorcases. The chimneypiece is of Portland stone, she describes, with ornamental consoles and above the lintel, enormous scrolls flanking a bust pedestal.

The principal stair hall is a two bay compartment north of the front hall. Casey tells us that Isaac Ware inserted an imperial staircase – one in which a central staircase rises to a landing then splits into two symmetrical flights up to the next floor – into a hall compartment which was meant for a three flight open well staircase. The staircase is further marred, Casey tells us, by a later utilitarian metal balustrade. Casey does not mention the plasterwork here, which is very pretty. The wooden staircase is a later addition.

The Imperial staircase in Leinster House, with an extra staircase heading somewhere! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall has stucco frames and floral swags. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Beyond the stair hall is the former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais, which fills the entire depth of the house. I found the lights rather offputting and think they ruin the intended effect of the room and the ceiling, which Casey tells us derives from Sebastiano Serlio (1475-1554), an Italian architect who was part of an Italian team who built the Palace of Fontainbleau, and Tutte l’opere d’architettura et prospetiva (All the Works of Architecture and Perspective) is Serlio’s practical treatise on architecture.

The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The Serlio ceiling of the former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for Leinster House ground floor supper room by Isaac Ware c. 1759, IAA 96/68.1/3/1. This plan, ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the ground floor supper room, now the Oireachtas Lirbary, by Ware. The drawing shows the room almost as executed.

The room has three screens of fluted Ionic columns – one at either end and one in front of the bow at one side of the room. Originally, Casey informs us, there were six fluted columns to each screen, paired at the ends of the room and in the centre of the north bow, but in the 19th century one column was removed from each pair. On the walls the corresponding pilasters would have matched the six columns.

The bow is considered to be the first bow in Dublin, and the design of the house is said to have inspired the design of the White House in Washington DC, designed by a man from Kilkenny, James Hoban.

The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: James Hoban, who designed The White House in Washington DC, both pictured here. The portrait is by 20th century South Carolina artist Charles de Antonio, and it shows a drawing of Leinster House in the background.

A pedimented doorcase is flanked by ornate chimneypieces based on a design by William Kent. These are surmounted by Corinthian overmantels after a design by Inigo Jones, possibly made to frame portraits, Casey suggests, of the Earl and Countess of Kildare painted by Reynolds in 1753-54. [see 2]

The chimneypieces are based on a design by William Kent. These are surmounted by Corinthian overmantels after a design by Inigo Jones, possibly made to frame portraits, Casey suggests, of the Earl and Countess of Kildare painted by Reynolds in 1753-54.
How lucky our politicians are to have use of such a beautiful library. These drawers hold the latest local newspapers from various counties. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The view from the library of the National Gallery. Note the wavering window glass, a sure sign of old glass. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Next to the Supper Room on the garden front is the large dining room, also designed by Isaac Ware. It is of three bays, and has decorative doorcases and a beautiful ceiling attributed to Filippo Lafranchini.

The Dining Room, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for Leinster House first floor dining room by Isaac Ware, c. 1759, courtesy Irish Architectural Archive (IAA 96/68.1/3/3). This drawing by Ware shows the ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the first floor dining room or saloon. A note in the top left corner indicated that Henry Fox, brother-in-law of the Earl’s wife, acted as go-between of some kind in the Earl’s dealing with the architect.
Design for the plasterwork in the ground floor dining room of Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini, 1750s. IAA 96/68.1/2/1. The Lafranchini brothers, of Swiss origin, have been credited with the introduction of the human figure into plaster work and had a profound influence on the native Irish stuccodors after their arrival to work for the Earl of Kildare’s father at Carton in 1739. These drawings, attributed to Filippo Lafranchini are the only known drawings by either brother for an Irish building, despite the fact that they are credited with having worked on fifteen houses over a forty year period in Ireland.
A large painting of Daniel O’Connel hangs at one end of the Dining Room, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Christine Casey describes: “Putti swing from an inner border of festoons linked at the cardinal points by acanthus cartouches.” [see 2] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The dining room in Leinster house has another grand chimneypiece. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Christine Casey next describes the Garden Hall, with a more modest shell and acanthus ceiling and a chimneypiece with claw feet. Next is the former Private Dining Room, she tells us, a room from 1760, which has a ceiling with acanthus, rocaille shells and floral festoon forming a deep border to a plain chamfered central panel.

Casey tells us that the Earl of Kildare’s Library is at the southeast corner of the house, and that it has pedimented bookcases. It too was designed by Isaac Ware.

Designs for the ceiling of the Earl of Kildare’s dressing room by Richard Castle, 1745, IIA 96/68.1/1/17, 18, 19. Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. As with the several surviving designs for the front elevation of Leinster House, these three beautifully executed drawings for proposed ceilings in the Earl of Kildare’s dressing room are indicative of the attention to design detail which Richard Castle brought to the project in an effort to satisfy his demanding clients. The third variant shows the ceiling almost as executed.

Before we go into the separate building that holds the current Dáil chamber, let us go up to the first floor. The former gallery now holds the Senate Chamber, and it fills the north end of the eighteenth century house. Both Richard Castle and Isaac Ware prepared plans for this room, but the room was unfinished when the Duke of Leinster died in 1773.

Seanad chamber, formerly the gallery. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

James died on 19 November 1773 at Leinster House and was buried in Christ Church cathedral four days later. His eldest son George predeceased him, so the Dukedom passed to his second son, William Robert Fitzgerald (1748/49-1804). The 2nd Duke completed the picture gallery in 1775 to designs by James Wyatt (1746-1813).

The impressive ceiling of the Seanad chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The ceiling as designed by James Wyatt is tripartite. I defer to Christine Casey for a description:

at its centre a chamfered octagon within a square and at each end a diaper within a square, each flanked by broad figurative lunette panels at the base of the coving and bracketed by attenuated tripods, urns and arabesque finials… It remains among the finest examples of Neoclassical stuccowork in Dublin.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: Sketch showing the interior of the Senate Chamber of Leinster House by Con O’Sullivan, 1930s (IAA 96/145.1). Founded in 1747, Henry Sibthorpe & Co were one of the leading painting and decorating firms in Dublin from the first half of the 19th century to the mid 20th, and they closed in 1970s. Some of its records survive in the National Archives and in the IAA. Drawings showed perspective views of proposed decorative schemes to prospective clients. This dawing by Sibthorpe employee Con O’Sullivan shows a proposed repainting of the Senate Chamber.

Wyatt created an elliptical vault over the principal volume of the room and a half-dome above the bow.

The bow of the Seanad chamber, which has three windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for the first floor gallery of Leinster House by Isaac Ware c. 1759, IAA 96/68.1/3/2. This drawing by Ware shows the plan, ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the first floor gallery, now the Seanad Chamber. Once again, a note providing the opinion of Henry Fox is attached to the drawing.
The main ceiling of the gallery in Leinster House is an elliptical vault. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The main ceiling of the gallery in Leinster House is an elliptical vault. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

On the inner wall of the room Wyatt places three ornate double-leaf doorcases and between them two large white marble chimneypieces. The chimneypieces have high-relief female figures to the uprights and on the lintel, putti sit “between headed spandrels enclosing urns and confronted griffins.”

Unfortunately with the tour group I was unable to get good photographs of the room, the chimneypieces or the carved doorframes.

The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The winged griffin figure is repeated in the doorframe and in the chimneypiece and the ceiling. I love the carved ram heads on the doorframe also. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The decorative doors of the Seanad chamber,with decoration in pewter and gesso. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Next to the Seanad Chamber is the Seanad Anteroom. It was originally the upstairs dining room.

Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A portrait of Robert Emmet by Maurice McGonigal. Former traitors became Irish heroes. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A portrait of Theobald Wolf Tone by Maurice McGonigal. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. This separate building originally housed a lecture theatre, built in 1893 by Thomas Newenham and Thomas Manly Deane. Before this was built, let us look at the rest of the history briefly of the Dukes of Leinster who continued to use the house as their Dublin residence.

You can take a virtual tour of Leinster house, https://www.oireachtas.ie/en/visit-and-learn/visit-the-oireachtas/virtual-tour/

Museum and entrance to Dáil chamber building. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
This is the separate entrance to the Dail Chamber building, the former lecture theatre. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The first duke’s wife Emilia went on to marry her children’s tutor, William Ogilvie. This would have caused quite a scandal, and she and her husband lived quietly in Blackrock in Dublin at their house called Frascati (or Frescati), which no longer exists. She and the Duke of Leinster had had nineteen children! She had happy times when the children were young and their tutor would take them bathing in the sea near Frescati house. She and her second husband went on to have two daughters.

Frescati House, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

A younger son of Emilia and the Duke of Leinster, Edward (1763-1798) became involved in an uprising in Dublin, inspired by the French Revolution, and he was put in prison as a traitor and where he died of wounds he’d received while resisting arrest.

Edward Fitzgerald (1763-1798)

Another son, Charles James (1756-1810) served in the Royal Navy. He also acted as M.P. for County Kildare between 1776 and 1790, Commissioner of Customs between 1789 and 1792 and M.P. for County Cavan between 1790 and 1797. He held the office of Muster Master-General of Ireland between 1792 and 1806 and Sheriff of County Down in 1798. He was M.P. for Ardfert between 1798 and 1800 and was created 1st Baron Lecale of Ardglass, Co. Down [Ireland] in 1800. He held the office of Member of Parliament (M.P.) for Arundel in England between January 1807 and April 1807.

A sister of Edward Fitzgerald (1763-1798), Emily Maria Margaret (1751-1818) married Charles Coote 1st Earl of Bellomont, County Cavan.

William Robert Fitzgerald, 2nd Duke of Leinster, K.P. (1749-1804), circle of Joshua Reynolds courtesy of Christie’s Irish Sale 2002.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us about the second duke:

He was returned as MP for Dublin city in 1767, though he was too young to take his seat, and it was only in October 1769 that he returned to Ireland to sit in parliament. He represented the constituency until 1773, supporting the government for most of this period. On learning that he was a freemason, the grand lodge of Irish freemasons rushed to make him their grand master and he served two terms (1770–72 and 1777–8). On 19 November 1773 he succeeded his father as 2nd duke of Leinster. The family home of Carton in Co. Kildare had been left to his mother but he, somewhat vainly, was determined to own it and purchased her life interest, a transaction that was the major source of his future indebtedness. His aunt, Lady Louisa Conolly, believed that he was ‘mighty queer about money’ and that his ‘distress’ about it was ‘the foundation of all that he does’ (HIP, iv, 160). In November 1775 he married Emilia Olivia Usher, only daughter and heir of St George Usher, Lord St George, a union that helped to ease some of his financial problems.

HUGH DOUGLAS HAMILTON portrait of Emilia Olivia née St. George, 2nd Duchess of Leinster courtesy of Bonhams Old Master Paintings 2018.

The 2nd Duke was active in politics. He died in 1804 and is buried in Kildare Abbey.

William Robert Fitzgerald (1749-1804) 2nd Duke of Leinster wearing Order of St. Patrick, by Gilbert Stuart, courtesy Christies.

One of William Robert Fitzgerald’s daughters, Emily Elizabeth (1778-1856) married John Joseph Henry of Straffan house in County Kildare, now the K Club. A son, Augustus Frederick (1791-1874) became the 3rd Duke of Leinster. He sold the town house in 1814. Since the Union in 1801 when there was no longer an Irish Parliament, a townhouse in Dublin was no longer essential. It was purchased by the Dublin Society, a group founded for “improving Husbandry, Manufactures and other useful arts and sciences.”

Augustus Frederick Fitzgerald (1791-1874), 3rd Duke of Leinster, engraver George Saunders after Stephen Catterson Smith, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

From 1815-1922 Leinster House was the Headquarters of the Royal Dublin Society – the “Royal” was added to the Society’s name in 1820. Rooms in the house were used to accommodate the Society’s library and museum as well as offices and meeting spaces. The original kitchen wing of the house was converted to laboratories and a lecture theatre. Gradually more buildings were added around the house, including sheds and halls for the Society’s events, namely the Spring Show and the Horse Show.

Note at Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about the RDS at Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. Configuration of Leinster house as RDS and centre of culture, learning and innovation the site of The Dublin Society (1815-1820) and the RDS (1820-1922). The School of Drawing (1845) was to the left, and later became the Metropolitan School of Art and the National College of Art and Design which continued as the National College of Art on this site until 1980, when it moved to Thomas Street and its facilities were incorporated into the adjacent National Library. The former kitchen and stable block were amended and expanded to host sculpture galleries, a stone yard, laboratories and lecture facilities. It had a 700 seat lecture theatre. To the right, Shelbourne Hall and the Agricultural Hall in the mid 19th century had facilities to display agricultural and industrial products, and it was later the site of the Museum of Archaeology. The Museum of Natural History (1857) and the National Gallery of Art (1860) were first developed for RDS collections, an dwere later expanded in conjunction with the Department of Science and Art/South Kensington and the Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction.

Leinster Lawn was the site of industrial and agricultural exhibitions. In 1853, the Great Industrial Exhibition ran on the RDS grounds at Leinster House, just two years after Prince Albert’s Exhibition in the Crystal Palace in London. Constructed of iron, wood and glass, the Irish Industrial Exhibition building was paid for by William Dargan and installed by Richard Turner on Leinster Lawn in a matter of months. Its architect was John Benson, who was knighted for his efforts.

Spring Shows and Industries Fairs (1831-1880) and early Horse Shows (1864-1881) were also held on Leinster Lawn.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Opening of the Dublin Great Exhibition, Illustrated London News 4th June 1853, IIA 80/010.20/1. A successor to the Great Exhibition held in the Crystal Palace, London in 1851, the Great Industrial Exhibition ran on the RDS grounds at Leinster House from 12 May to 31st October 1853. As much a marvel as any of the objects on display was the edifice in which the exhibition was housed. Constructed of iron, wood and glass, the Irish Industrial Exhibition building was paid for by William Dargan and installed by Richard Turner on Leinster Lawn in a matter of months. Its architect was John Benson, who was knighted for his efforts.

The National Museum and National Library were built in 1890, and were designed by Thomas Newenham Deane and his son Thomas Manly Deane.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. From 1815-1922 Leinster House was the Headquarters of the Royal Dublin Society. It became the focus of an extensive effort to provide Ireland with a full range of cultural institutions that grew out of activities and the collections of the Royal Dublin Society. In front is the National Library (1890) and the National Museum of Archaeology (1890). In the middle is the School of Drawing (1845) which later became the Metropolitan School of Art, and a Lecture Theatre (1896). At the rear is the National Gallery of Art (1860), the Natural History Museum (1857) and the Royal College of Science (1912).
The National Library. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The museum and library were designed as a pair of Early Renaissance rotundas facing each other. The rotundas have a single storey yellow sandstone Roman Doric colonnade surrounding them. Above is a row of circular niches. Above that are columns framing round headed windows and panels of red and white marble. The pavillions next to the rotundas have a rusticated ground floor, with Venetian windows on first floor level and Corinthian pilasters.

Top of the museum building next to Leinster House by Thomas Newenham Deane. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The Lecture Theatre was built in 1893, and was also designed by Thomas Newenham Deane. The lecture theatre is a horseshoe shaped top-lit galleried auditorium with a flat west end that originally accommodated a stage and lecture preparation rooms.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: The RDS lecture theatre.

Single and paired cast iron Corinthian columns support the gallery in the former theatre. The building was appropriated as a temporary Dáil chamber in 1922 on Michael Collins’s recommendation, and in 1924 the government acquired Leinster House to be the seat of the Oireachtais. The theatre was remodelled: a new floor was inserted over the central block of seats to make a platform for the Ceann Comhairle, the clerk of the Dail, and the official reporters. The lower tier of seating was replaced with rows of mahogany and leather covered seats designed either by Hugh O’Flynn of the OPW, as the exhibition in the Irish Architectural Archive tells us, or by James Hicks & Sons according to Christine Casey, and the upper tiers became the press and public galleries. The stage was closed in and replaced by a press gallery and adjoining press rooms. The gallery was remodelled around 1930.

Dáil chamber at Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Dáil chamber at Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Roof of the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Entrance to Dáil chamber, overhead is a painting of the first sitting of Dáil Éireann, which took place in the Mansion House, Dublin, on 21 January 1919. The painting is by Thomas Ryan. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.

To enter Leinster house, you go through a security hut upon which a controversial sum was spent by the Office of Public Works. I love the way the hut goes around a large tree. I assume a large part of the cost of the hut was the beautiful marble countertops!

The elegant timber counter of the securty hut has lovely a marble top. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The security hut is built around an impressive tree. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

[1] MacDonnell, Randal. The Lost Houses of Ireland. A chronicle of great houses and the families who lived in them. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. London, 2002.

[2] Casey, Christine. The Buildings of Ireland: Dublin. The City within the Grand and Royal Canals and the Circular Road with the Phoenix Park. Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2005.

[3] Dictionary of Irish Biography, https://www.dib.ie/biography/fitzgerald-james-a3157

Farmleigh House (and Iveagh House), Phoenix Park, Dublin

Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin

Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

Farmleigh House is part of a 78-acre estate inside Dublin’s Phoenix Park. The government bought it in June 1999 to provide accommodation for high-level meetings and visiting guests of the nation. The rest of the time it is maintained by the Office of Public Works and is open to the public for tours.

Farmleigh was originally a two storey Georgian house, belonging to the Coote family and the Trenches, then bought by Edward Cecil Guinness (1847-1927) in 1873, a great grandson of brewery owner Arthur Guinness, at the time of his marriage to his cousin Adelaide Guinness.

Farmleigh was built for the Trench family in 1752, according to a Dublin City Council website, Bridges of Dublin. Charles Trench built the walled garden. I am afraid I am unable to find more information about the Trenches of Farmleigh so I would appreciate any feedback about them.

The Landed Estates database identifies John Chidley Coote (1816-1879) as a previous owner, the son of Charles Henry Carr Coote (1794-1864) 9th Baronet. John Chidley was from Ballyfin in County Laois, later and school and now a beautiful hotel. He married his neighbour Margaret Mary Pole Cosby from Stradbally Hall in County Laois (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/10/14/stradbally-hall-stradbally-co-laois/ ), daughter of Sydney Cosby (1807-1840). They had no children, and she went on to marry Charles Robert Piggott 3rd Baronet of Knapton, County Laois, after John Chidley’s death.

Edward Cecil Guinness enlarged the house, using designs first by James Franklin Fuller (1832-1925), who extended the house to the west, refurbished the existing house and added a third storey. Edward Cecil later engaged William Young (1843-1900), a young Scottish architect, who added the ballroom wing in 1896. Young also worked on the Guinness’s English country seat Elveden in Surrey and Edward Cecil’s house on St. Stephen’s Green. A conservatory was added adjoining the ballroom in 1901. Edward Cecil Guinness was created the 1st Earl of Iveagh in 1919.

Edward Cecil Guinness (1847-1927) 1st Earl of Iveagh, by William Orpen, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.
Adelaide Maria Guinness by George Elgar Hicks, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.

From the website:

Farmleigh is a unique representation of its heyday, the Edwardian period. Edward Cecil Guinness [(1847-1927) 1st Earl of Iveagh], great-grandson of Arthur Guinness (founder of the brewery), constructed Farmleigh around a smaller Georgian house in the 1880s. According to his tastes, the new building merged a variety of architectural styles.

Many of the artworks and furnishings that Guinness collected remain in the house. There is a stunning collection of rare books and manuscripts in the library. The extensive pleasure-grounds contain wonderful Victorian and Edwardian ornamental features, with walled and sunken gardens and scenic lakeside walks. The estate also boasts a working farm with a herd of Kerry cows.” [1]

Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin, July 2015. It was renovated by architect James Franklin Fuller. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In the Dublin between the canals book by Christine Casey, part of the Buildings of Ireland series, she describes Farmleigh as a mediocre building. It is of three storeys with an extensive south facing front, rendered with a pediment and Corinthian Portland stone portico to the two advanced central bays and central canted bows to the flanking five-bay ranges. The five bays on the right of the porch correspond to the eighteenth century house, of which one interior survives, she tells us.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin, July 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/
Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Arthur Guinness Junior: After his father’s passing in 1803, Arthur II took over the business and oversaw a period of significant growth, during which Guinness became the largest brewery in Ireland and began to concentrate on its now-famous stout. Photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Arthur Guinness of Beaumont, J.P., (1768-1855), courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

One is not allowed to take photographs inside the house but you can see pictures of the house and take an online tour on the website. It operates as the official residence for guests of the Irish state, which is why photography is not allowed inside.

The website tells us:

With the addition of a new Conservatory adjoining the Ballroom in 1901, and increased planting of broadleaves and exotics in the gardens, Farmleigh had, by the early years of the twentieth century, all the requisites for gracious living and stylish entertainment. Its great charm lies in the eclecticism of its interior decoration ranging from the classical style to Jacobean, Louis XV, Louis XVI and Georgian.

Farmleigh  was purchased from the Guinness family by the Irish Government in 1999 for €29.2m. The house has been carefully refurbished by the Office of Public Works as the premier accommodation for visiting dignitaries and guests of the nation, for high level Government meetings, and for public enjoyment.” [2]

Edward Cecil Guinness was the son of Benjamin Lee Guinness (1798-1868), who purchased Ashford Castle, County Galway, in 1855. The castle had been a shooting lodge belonging to Lord Oranmore and Browne. In 1867 Benjamin Lee Guinness was created 1st Baronet of Ashford Castle in thanks for his restoration of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin at his own expense. His father had lived in St. Anne’s Park in Clontarf, a house unfortunately no longer in existence.

St. Anne’s, Dublin entrance front with garden party 1912, Gillman Collection Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Ashford Castle, photograph courtesy of Ashford Castle facebook page.

Edward Cecil’s older brother Arthur Edward (1840-1915), like his father, held the office of Member of Parliament (M.P.) (Conservative) for the City of Dublin. He succeeded as 2nd Baronet of Ashford Castle. He added to the residence at Ashford Castle and developed its grounds. He was created Baron Ardilaun of Ashford Castle in 1880. In 1871 he married Lady Olivia Charlotte White, daughter of the 3rd earl of Bantry. They had no children, and the Ardilaun barony became extinct after his death in Dublin on 20 January 1915. 

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us about Arthur Edward:

As well as providing funding for the completion of the restoration of Marsh’s library, begun by his father, he also contributed to the rebuilding of the Coombe Hospital. As president of the Artisans’ Dwellings Company (in which he was a large shareholder), he took particular interest in improving working-class housing conditions, most notably in the areas around St Patrick’s cathedral. Perhaps his most notable legacy was financing the transformation of the twenty-two-acre St Stephen’s Green into a landscaped garden, which, through an act of parliament sponsored by Guinness, was presented to the Board of Works for the use of Dublin citizens. This generosity was marked by the erection of a bronze statue of him in the park, financed by public subscription in 1891. Another significant purchase of his was the 17,000-acre Muckross estate in Co. Kerry, adjoining the lakes of Killarney, which he bought for £60,000 to prevent the land being exploited by a commercial syndicate, thus enabling it to continue as an important tourist attraction.

Muckross House Killarney Co. Kerry, photograph by Chris Hill 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool.

Another brother, Benjamin Lee (1842-1900) who went by his middle name Lee, married Henrietta Eliza St. Lawrence of Howth Castle. It was their son who became the 3rd Baronet of Ashford Castle.

Edward Cecil Guinness, the Dictionary of Biography tells us, was: “Socially innovative, with a concern for the welfare of employees, from as early as 1870 he had established a free dispensary for his workforce and made provisions for pension and other allowances – acts of social reform that were remarkable for the time. To mark his retirement in 1890 he placed in trust £250,000 to be expended in the erection of working-class housing in London and Dublin.

Before the Iveagh Market was built in 1906, hundreds of traders sold their goods outdoors, especially around St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the area was a maze of poor and dirty streets and alleys with homes, as the city council said, “unfit for human habitation.” Children were sent out by their parents to work selling goods in the streets, and women tried to make money as dealers selling fish, flowers, old clothes and fruit. 

Edward Cecil Guinness cleared the markets in the area to build a park and housing for the labouring poor – you can see the beautiful Victorian style brick buildings still run by the “Iveagh Trust” around St. Patrick’s Cathedral. He donated what in today’s money would be almost 20 million euro for the new housing. As the traders had long established market rights, he built a new market building, moving trading indoors, in the tradition of Victorian covered markets. 

Edward’s main residence at the time he purchased Farmleigh was 80 St. Stephen’s Green, now Iveagh House, the headquarters of the Department of Foreign Affairs. He viewed Farmleigh as ‘a rustic retreat’.

Let’s take a quick diversion to Iveagh House (80 and 81 St. Stephen’s Green), which I was lucky enough to visit during Open House Dublin in 2014. 80 St. Stephen’s Green was built for Bishop Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross, by Richard Castle in 1736. After both number 80 and 81 were bought by Benjamin Guinness in 1862, he acted as his own architect and produced the current house, combining the two houses. [see Archiseek] In 1866 a Portland stone facade by James Franklin Fuller was added.

Iveagh House, 80-81 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Portland stone facade (1866) by James Franklin Fuller (1835-1924) disguises an early eighteenth century townhouse by Richard Castle (d. 1751) for Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross. The original house, three windows wide, is on the left of the portico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, the original owner, Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross, portrait attributed to Charles Philips. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Robert Clayton (1695-1758) Right Reverend The Lord Bishop of Killalla attributed to Charles Philips courtesy Christies 2007.
Portrait c. 1740 of Archbishop Robert Clayton (1695–1758) and Katherine née Donellan by James Latham, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland. Known for his unorthodox views, at the time of his death Robert Clayton was facing charges of heresy.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography entry by C. J. Woods tells us that Archbishop Robert Clayton was born in England to John Clayton (1657–1725) and his wife, Eleanor (née Atherton). John Clayton moved to Ireland as prebendary of St Michan’s, Dublin (1698–1725), and was later dean of Kildare (1708–25). On his father’s death Robert inherited his estate and so could afford to resign his fellowship and marry, which he did on the same day (17 June 1728), marrying Catherine Donnellan (1703?–1766), a daughter of Nehemiah Donnellan, chief baron of the Irish exchequer. Robert inherited estates in England, and had a fine house built on the south side of St Stephen’s Green, designed in Italian style by Richard Castle in the mid 1730s. He also acquired a country house in Co. Kildare, St Wolstan’s near Celbridge (1752), and spent freely. He and his wife had no children.

St. Wolstan’s, Celbridge, County Kildare, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The Archiseek website tells us about Iveagh House:

“The Dublin Builder, February 1 1866: ‘In this number we give a sketch of the town mansion of Mr. Benjamin Lee Guinness, M.P, now in course of erection in Stephen’s Green, South, the grounds of which run down to those of the Winter Garden. As an illustration so very quiet and unpretending a front is less remarkable as a work of architectural importance than from the interest which the name of that well-known and respected owner gives it, and from whose own designs it is said to have been built. The interior of the mansion promises to be of a very important and costly character, and to this we hope to have the pleasure of returning on a future occasion when it is more fully advanced. The works, we believe, have been carried out by the Messrs. Murphy of St. Patrick’s Cathedral notoriety, under Mr. Guinness’s own immediate directions, without the intervention of any professional architect.’ “

Benjamin Lee Guinness by Stephen Catterson Smith Jr courtesy of Adam’s auction 13 Oct 2015, Provenance: St. Annes, Clontarf, and by descent in the family.

The Farmleigh website tells us of the Guinness family’s source of wealth: “In 1886 Edward Cecil Guinness floated the brewery on the Stock Exchange increasing his wealth and social standing and this reflected in an extensive rebuild of Farmleigh. Despite this work, Edward and his wife Adelaide spent relatively little time there. Their primary residence was in London, but when in Dublin, they stayed mostly at 80 St. Stephen’s Green. The family only stayed in Farmleigh for short periods of a couple of weeks, mainly in the spring and summer months.

80/81 St. Stephen’s Green was donated to the Irish government by Benjamin Guinness’s grandson Rupert, the 2nd Earl of Iveagh, in 1939 and was renamed Iveagh House.

One enters Iveagh House through a large nineteenth century entrance hall with two screens of Ionic columns, which incorporates the front parlour of the Clayton house. The hall is adorned with sculptures bought by the Guinnesses at the Dublin Exhibition of 1865. Through a door at the west end is a Victorian domed vestibule and beyond it a service stair. East of the hall is an Inner Hall that was the entrance hall of Bishop Clayton’s house. This has niches flanking the chimney breast, fielded panelling and a modillion cornice.

The Entrance Hall, Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Sleeping Faun by Harriet Hosner bought by the Guinnesses at the Dublin Exhibition of 1865, for almost the same price, our guide told us, as the house on St. Stephen’s Green! Donated by the Guinnesses along with the house to the state. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, “Modestyby G. M. Lombardi. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, medieval wooden carving, according to our tour guide, picturing Homer’s Illiad scenes. I think, however, it is a mid nineteenth century bas relief carving mentioned by Christine Casey, by Richard Barrington Boyle, of King Priam entreating Achilles to release the body of Hector. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The two stair compartments of the eighteenth century house on St. Stephen’s Green were combined to create the space for the grand imperial staircase inserted by James Franklin Fuller in 1881.

Stair Hall, Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. The grand imperial stair was inserted by James Franklin Fuller in 1881, with onyx and alabaster wall panelling from 1896 by William Young. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Painting by De Chirico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The drawing room’s ceiling is modelled on the Provost of Trinity House dining room ceiling. There is also a room downstairs in Iveagh House with a room which was added in 1866 with Georgian Revival ornament derived from the Provost’s House.

The ceiling rose and ceiling of the dining room in the Provost’s House. Provost’s House, Trinity College Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Gardens, the part kept by the Guinness’s as part of Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mahogany doorframe and door, Iveagh House, Stephen’s Green. The architect took advantage of the tax on mahogany not imposed in Ireland. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Our guide told us that they were Medieval wood carvings of scenes from Homer’s Illiad, and crest of Lord Iveagh who donated the house to the state. Original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, The Music Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Music Room at the head of the stairs has a Rococo-cum Neoclassical ceiling of the late 1760s.

The Music room ceiling, in Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Saloon or Great Room, the breadth of the 18th century house in the front, with its coved and coffered ceiling, Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, probably originally the withdrawing room of the Lady of the house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Christine Casey describes the ballroom of Iveagh House, which was designed, as was that in Farmleigh, by William Young. Casey writes in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin book (p. 498): “This is an impressive if vulgar room. Tripartite, with a big shallow central dome and lower vaulted end bays with canted bay windows overlooking the garden. Elaborate, almost Mannerist stucco decoration by D’Arcy’s of Dublin.”

The ballroom, our guide to Iveagh House told us, was created to host a Royal visit. The room was built specially to have room for the guests, for £30,000.

Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Original curtains and seats in ballroom in Iveagh House. They remind me of the portiéres in Farmleigh’s ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Fireplace built for ballroom in Iveagh House. JFK was hosted at a reception here and had his picture taken in front of the fireplace, and his daughter Caroline Kennedy had her picture taken there years later. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ballroom stucco in Iveagh House, made from moulds but then finished by hand to make look like fully hand-done. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Minstrals’ gallery in Iveagh House ballroom, made of the new at the time material, aluminium. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of Iveagh house ballroom, in Wedgewood blue. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Now that we have placed Edward Cecil Guinness in the context of the house he lived in at the time of purchasing Farmleigh, let’s return to Farmleigh.

Casey writes that inside Farmleigh, two ranges of rooms open off an east-west spinal corridor, with a “showy” central entrance hall opening through a columnar screen to a large top-lip double-height stair hall.

The entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The immediate front hallway is also toplit by roundels set in the ceiling of the hallway/porte cochere. The porte cochere is upheld by Portland stone pilasters and there is a screen of six columns of Connemara marble on pedestals with Ionic capitals on pedestals. The columns support the coffered ceiling of the Entrance Hall. 

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/

The chimneypiece is of carved and inlaid marble, and the website tells us it is probably a nineteenth-century copy of an original, though the plaque may date from the eighteenth century.

The entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Fireplace plaque in the entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The doors leading off the hall have carved mouldings and pediments, and the doors are of veneered mahogany on the hall side and of oak on the other.

The website continues: “The classical motif continues at the Staircase to the rear of the hall. Corinthian pilasters rise from first-floor level to a strongly projecting cornice. San Domingo mahogany is used for the Staircase on which the wrought iron balusters were made to correspond exactly with those on the staircase of Iveagh House, formerly the Earls of Iveaghs’ city mansion.

The stairwell is toplit also.

Stair Hall, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
The wrought iron balusters were made to correspond exactly with those on the staircase of Iveagh House: Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After Edward Cecil’s death in 1927 his eldest son Rupert became the second Earl of Iveagh and inherited Farmleigh and 80 St Stephen’s Green. He was a British MP for Southend at the time, and ceased to be an MP when he succeeded to his father’s earldom. His wife Gwendolen the Countess of Iveagh won the Southend by-election in November 1927 to replace her husband as MP. She served until her retirement in 1935.

He presented the house on St. Stephen’s Green to the Irish State in 1939.

The website tells us about the family in Farmleigh: “Rupert gave Farmleigh to his grandson and heir, Benjamin (Rupert’s eldest son and Benjamin’s father, Arthur, was killed in WWII). Farmleigh became a family home for Benjamin (3rd Earl of Iveagh) and Miranda Guinness, and their children. Benjamin became a keen bibliophile and collector of rare books, parliamentary and early bindings, as well as first editions of the modern poets and playwrights. The library in Farmleigh in now dedicated to Benjamin Iveagh and his wonderful collection of books.

Benjamin died in 1993 in London and in 1999, his son Arthur Guinness (4th Earl of Iveagh), sold Farmleigh to the Irish State.” [2]

The website continues:

The door to the left of the hall leads to the Dining Room, which is lined with boiseries in the style of Louis XV. There is some spectacular woodcarving in this room, of particular note is the chimney piece, supported by a pair of female herms, with a clock at its centre surmounted by a grotesque face. Bronze figures of Bacchantes are placed in the shell-topped niches on either side of the fireplace, while beneath them are late Victorian oak buffets. The London firm of Charles Mellier & Co., supplied the interior here (apart from the ceiling which was designed by the architect J.F. Fuller).”

The Dining Room panelling was designed by decorators Charles Mellier & Co to incorporate four late seventeenth century Italian tapestries which once belonged to Queen Maria Christina of Spain. Three of the embroidered panels have been identified as the planetary gods, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. These panels are likely to be part of a larger set of seven panels relating to the Roman deities. One such panel, apparently from the same set and depicting Mercury, is in the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. The fourth panel above the fireplace is thought to depict a personification of Africa and to be part of a further set, depicting the continents.

The Dining Room in Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

Beyond the dining room is Guinness’s Study, a wainscoted room with a sky painted ceiling. A concealed door next to the window at the southwest corner led to a basement stronghold, a secret chamber for Guinness to escape in case of attack.

The Study in Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

The website tells us:

The main entrance to Farmleigh was originally on the north side of the house (in part of what is now the Library) and this was probably a reception room where guests either dined or withdrew after dinner. By 1873, when Edward Cecil Guinness bought the house, the entrance had been changed to the south of the building and this room was the entrance hall. It subsequently became a boudoir and reverted in later years with the Guinness family to a reception room while keeping its appellation as ‘boudoir’. (Generally the boudoir was a ‘private’ room for the lady of the house, decorated in a light and elegant style. Her ‘public’ room was the drawing room, just as the gentleman’s study was his ‘private’ room and the library his ‘public’ room.).

The Boudoir is oval in shape with two niches, one each side of the door into the Corridor. The niche to the right of the door as one enters contained a jib door into the Oak Room but the space between the rooms now holds a safe accessed from the Oak Room.

Christine Casey describes the Oak Room in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin (p. 298). She writes: “On the right of the hall is the studiolo-like Oak Room, which has a coffered oak ceiling and tall panelling with pilasters, scalloped tympana and grotesque terms. …Beefier and more textured than most of the carving at Farmleigh. It has been suggested that Fuller used salvaged panelling, although the regularity of execution seems at odds with the seventeenth century style.”

The Boudoir, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The website describes the Boudoir: “The ceiling plasterwork dates from about 1790 and is in the Adam style, with husk chains and classical motifs in medallions surrounding the central decoration of a fan-like or bat’s-wing motif, which is itself echoed in the heads of the niches. The unusual medallion motifs here are similar to those in a ceiling in 35 North Great George’s Street, Dublin which has been attributed to Francis Ryan or Michael Stapleton and dated to 1783. It is in particularly fine condition and clearly articulated without excessive applications of paint.

During the OPW restoration work, it was possible to examine the original decorations and colour scheme of the Georgian house here because the ceiling heights had been changed in the Guinness alterations. Particular attention has been paid in the selection of fabrics for this room to reflect its character.

An item of particular interest is the pair of engraved brass lock-plates on the door into the corridor which are similar to some in Iveagh House where they are original to that 1736 house! They are the only examples of these at Farmleigh and it is presumed that they got here through Fuller who also worked at Iveagh House.

One of the former drawing rooms is now called the “Nobel Room” and honours the memory of Ireland’s four Nobel Laureates for literature: George Bernard Shaw, William Butler Yeats, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney. It interconnects with the “Blue Drawing Room.” These rooms were significantly re-modelled by Fuller in the 1880s, and again in the 1890s by William Young. The saucer-domed ceiling in the Nobel Room is in the style of the 1820s and its plasterwork of vine-leaves, grapes and vases filled with fruit and flowers indicates that it may have been a dining room. A clever touch is the window over the fireplace, an unusual feature. Christine Casey writes: “Taking a leaf from Charles Barry’s book, Fuller went to pains to move the fireplace to the centre of the rear wall to create an arresting overmantel window.”

The Nobel Room and Blue Room, with the window over the fireplace, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The Blue Room is an ante room to the Ballroom. The ceiling was copied from that in the Oval Room, though it is not at all as finely executed as the original. The three arched doorways in these rooms were created out of windows in the old house when Young added the Ballroom in 1896.

The Blue Drawing Room, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Blue Room, Farmleigh, with a “portiere” over the arched door on the right, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
The spandrels in the Nobel Room support a circular ceiling. The spandrels have overscaled Rococo-revival flower baskets, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The suite for state guests, which is not included in the house tour, is inspired by designs of Irish modernist Eileen Gray (you can see examples of her work in the Museum at Collins Barracks in Dublin). 

The house also contains the Benjamin Iveagh Library, donated by the Guinness family to Dublin’s Marsh’s Library and on permanent display in Farmleigh. The Library, which is panelled in Austrian Oak with exquisitely rendered carvings in the neo – Jacobean style, was part of the renovation undertaken by Edward Cecil in the 1880s. Scholars can access material from the collection by arrangement. The Benjamin Iveagh Library is open for use by suitably qualified scholars, third-level students, and independent researchers. A full electronic catalogue of the collection may be viewed online via Marsh’s Library.

The Library, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

Applications to carry out research in the Benjamin Iveagh Library may be made to the Keeper of Marsh’s Library.
Email: reading.room@marshlibrary.ie

The librarian Nuala Canny writes:

“While the printed works which include many rare imprints and early periodicals represent the majority of the holdings, there is some exceptional manuscript material, including a copy of the Topography of Ireland by Gerald of Wales c.1280, and the trilingual language primer used by Queen Elizabeth I c. 1564  to learn Irish, together with letters from Sean O’Casey, W.B. Yeats, Lennox Robinson, Daniel O’Connell and Roger Casement.

“The items that adorn these shelves represent important moments in the areas of Irish Politics, Literature, and Science: we have a triumphant letter from Daniel O’Connell to his wife in 1829 telling her of the passing of the Roman Catholic Relief Act, which led to Catholic Emancipation,  a first edition of James Joyce’s seminal work Ulysses published in 1922 and the first appearance in print in 1662 of Boyle’s Law.”

The Ballroom with adjoining conservatory is the piéce de resistance of the house. The ballroom was designed by William Young in 1892. It is a large rectangular room with bows in the centre of the north, east and south walls. Casey writes that “it is a much more reticent affair than the showy marble ballroom that Young designed the Guinness townhouse at St. Stephen’s Green [as pictured above].”

The Ballroom, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Ballroom at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

The website tells us:

The Guinness’ guests could not fail to be impressed with the superb decoration in the style of Louis XVI with swags, wreaths, musical trophies, urns, sphinxes, and Corinthian pilasters. The rich decoration is executed in plaster that is applied to wood panelling, and the whole room, including the ceiling, is painted off-white to resemble plaster. The chimney piece is also made of wood and this, together with the overmantel, the ceiling, and the elegant portieres, were all part of an integrated scheme designed by Young. The Edinburgh-based interior design company Morrisons probably supplied the portieres as they had done so for the Young-designed ballroom at Iveagh House.

The plaster decoration is also by Mellier.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/

Hanging from the centre of the ceiling is a magnificent late nineteenth-century cut-glass and gilt metal chandelier complete with coronet. Purchased specifically for the Ballroom, it is on loan from the Guinness family. There is a story that the oak floor was made from disused barrels at the brewery but that has never been confirmed!

The Ballroom, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The Conservatory: “Erected in 1901-2, it was supplied by Mackenzie and Moncur of Edinburgh, on the recommendation of Young. Exotic plants and flowers were grown here, and have been re-introduced by the Office of Public Works. Hot water pipes that ran around the perimeter were covered up by cast iron grilles, which have been restored. The marble floor, which is original, is tiled in the traditional eighteenth-century pattern of carreaux octagons.

This room posed one of the most difficult conservation problems for the OPW at Farmleigh, as it was in a dangerous condition when the State took over the house. It was completely re-glazed and new structural supports for high-level metal work were introduced. As a result the character of the Conservatory has been retained and its life span increased for at least another 100 years.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/
The Conservatory at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

A room we don’t see on the tour is discussed on the blog on the Farmleigh website: the Billiard Room:

Located at mezzanine level between the ground and first floors, typical of nineteenth century billiard rooms to keep offending cigar odours away from the rest of the house and male visitors appropriately distanced from visiting ladies, it is very much a masculine enclave. Beneath a top-lit roof – reconstructed and reglazed with ultraviolet screens by the OPW – the plaster cornice, deep ceiling cove and decorative ribs are painted in imitation of timber. The oak chimneypiece with Corinthian columns and carved frieze to the south of the room is dark in colour, lending to the heaviness about the overall decor when combined with the distinctive red cotton wall fabric which is printed with an arabesque motif.

The Billiard Room at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The grounds contain a clock tower, a large classical fountain in the Pleasure Grounds, an ornamental dairy, garden temple and four acre walled garden and sunken garden. The outbuildings have been adapted to house an art gallery and a theatre and a courtyard for additional state accommodation. The Boathouse now houses a cafe overlooking the lake.

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, February 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Sunken gardens in various formal styles were popular in the early twentieth century… This one is in the Dutch of Early English style and was created some time after 1907, probably by Edward Cecil Guinness. The design has some similarities with the sunken pond garden at Hampton Court, which dates from the original Early English period, and may relate to his connections with the British Royal family.

An ornamental gate leads into the rectangular garden, which was designed with three descending brick terraces leading to an oval pool in the centre, with a marble fountain of carved putti figures. The fountain has been restored under the direction of OPW and the Carrara marble exposed. Fine topiary peacocks and spirals surround this fountain on two levels. A brick wall enclosing the garden is paralleled by a high yew hedge, which leads the eye to the two conifers framing the view to the small apple orchard beyond.” [3]

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

“The Walled Garden covers about four acres and is sloped ideally towards the south. A fine pair of highly decorative wrought iron gates lead into a diagonal walk with double herbaceous borders backed by high yew hedges. South of the main crosswalk is a small orchard and potager, while north of it there is a small rose and lavender garden. The Walled Garden dates from the early nineteenth century, when Charles Trench owned Farmleigh; it is shown on the 1837 Ordnance Survey map as having a diagonal layout with seven squares and glasshouse. Later that century it had an extensive range of glasshouses on the south wall for many plants grown in typical Victorian fashion to support large-scale bedding schemes as well as producing exotic fruit and flowers and foliage, particularly orchids and ferns, for year round display in the house.

Among the additions made by Edward Cecil Guinness were the small Victorian fernery under glass and grotto nearby with two old ogee windows from St Patrick’s Cathedral in the end wall of the garden. He also erected a number of glasshouses, including a fine three quarter span cast-iron vinery behind the high yew hedge, the potting shed, and the gardener’s house and pump house which were built in the Arts and Crafts style. His daughter in-law, Gwendolen, Lady Iveagh, subsequently created a compartmentalised layout, which was fashionable in the early twentieth century along with renewed interest in old style garden plants and herbaceous borders. A new traditional path led from the wrought iron gateway connecting the Walled Garden to the broad walk at the back of the house. This new axis of the garden was reinforced by tall yew hedges backing the long double herbaceous borders which she also planted.

A stone temple was created as a focal point of the garden by Benjamin and Miranda Guinness in 1971: it has six antique columns of Portland with a copper roof and ornamental weather vane. The main cross path either side of the temple has metal structures designed by Lanning Roper for climbing roses and wisteria similar to those in the famous Bagatelle Garden in Paris. A paved rose garden was laid out to the north east of the temple backed by a yew hedge and looking across a lawn to the small orchard and potage. Lanning Roper suggested planting a quince, a mulberry, a catalpa, and a magnolia, to complete what he described as a Carolingian Quartet on this lawn. Lady Iveagh subsequently planted the double herbaceous borders, which include yuccas, phormiums, paeonies, astilbe and euphorbias.” [4]

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] See also https://farmleigh.ie/

[2] https://farmleigh.ie/the-guinness-family/

[3] https://farmleigh.ie/the-parkland/

[4] https://farmleigh.ie/the-parkland/

Duleek House, Duleek, Co Meath 

Duleek House, Duleek, Co Meath 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 113. “(O’Brien, Inchiquin, B/PB) A three storey pedimented cut-stone house of ca 1750, attributed to Richard Castle or his school, built for Thomas Trotter, MP. Three bay front; central breakfront with triple window above Venetian window above pedimented tripartite doorway. Balustraded roof parapet. Owned, in early part of C19, by 2nd Marquess of Thomond. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/14321014/duleek-house-abbey-road-abbeyland-duleek-co-meath

Duleek House, Abbey Road, ABBEYLAND, Duleek, County Meath 

Duleek House, County Meath, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached three-bay three-storey over basement country house, built c.1750, attached to an earlier house to the rear, built c.1700. Pitched slate roof with red brick chimneystack to front block, with a stone balustrade parapet. Ashlar limestone walls to front elevation, with pedimented central breakfront, quoins and a carved cornice. Carved stone tripartite Doric doorcase. Venetian window and square-headed tripartite window to breakfront. 

Appraisal 

Designed by Richard Cassels for Thomas Trotter MP as an extension to an earlier house, this imposing eighteenth-century house is clearly designed by a skilled architect. The scale and form of the house is enhanced by the varying treatment of the fenestration on each floor and by the pedimented breakfront. The masonry was executed by skilled craftsmen, which is apparent from the finish of the stone work. The carved stone doorcase adds artistic interest to the façade. 

Duleek House, County Meath, courtesy National Inventory.
Duleek House, County Meath, courtesy National Inventory.
Duleek House, County Meath, courtesy National Inventory.
Duleek House, County Meath, courtesy National Inventory.

Record of Protected Structures: 

Duleek House, Abbey Road, Abbeyland. Town: Duleek. 

Detached three-bay three-storey over basement country house, built c.1750, attached to an earlier house to the rear, built c.1700. Designed by Richard Cassels. Ranges of stone built outbuildings, built c.1750 (14321015) 

What still stands of Duleek House, County Meath. The limestone-fronted façade of the building was added c.1750 to a residence probably half a century older, as can be seen by a side-view below. If not designed by Richard Castle the front section was certainly much influenced by him, and the tripartite doorcase is very similar to that of the last surviving 18th century house on Dublin’s O’Connell Street (no. 42). 

The interior featured an entrance hall with three arched openings to the rear providing access to the staircase and reception rooms with neo-classical plasterwork. When surveyed for the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage, Duleek House was still intact and occupied. Since then it has deteriorated into the present dangerous condition and appears unlikely to survive much longer. The building is of course listed for protection. 

https://meathhistoryhub.ie/houses-a-d/

Duleek House is situated on the edge of Duleek village. In the eighteenth century the grange of St. Michael was used as the site for the major house in the town – Duleek House. Tradition states that stones from the ruined monastery were used in the construction of the building. Duleek House was attributed to Richard Castle by the Knight of Glin and to the office of Richard Castle by Casey and Rowan. Erected about 1750 for Thomas Trotter, Duleek House is a detached three-bay three-storey over basement country house. It is attached to an earlier house to the rear dated to c.1700. Attached to the house are a range of stone built outbuildings. An entrance way from the Maudlin Bridge was created with a gate lodge at the roadway. The gate lodge was known locally as ‘Savage’s Lodge’, after the family who inhabited it but the building is now demolished. This avenue is marked on the OS maps of 1836 and 1882. 

The earlier house may date to the 1730s following the purchase of the site of the priory by Thomas Trotter of Dublin from the Marquis of Drogheda in 1729. Trotter was associated with the Church of Ireland church at Duleek as a statue of him stood in the porch. The statue is attributed to the Flemish sculptor, Peter Scheemakers. The statue of Trotter was moved to the Law Society at Blackhall Place, Dublin, where it is labelled as coming from “Duleek, Co. Louth.”  Thomas was a founder member of the Dublin Society now the R.D.S. 

The Ram family held the parliamentary seat of Duleek from the seventeenth century until late in the eighteenth century. Abel Ram of Ramsfort and Clonattin was the patron of the borough in the early eighteenth century. Thomas Trotter married Rebecca Ram, daughter of Abel Ram, in 1710. Thomas Trotter, MP for Duleek 1715-27, died in 1745 and was succeeded by his son, Stephen, who died 1764. Stephen’s son, Thomas, died in 1802 and his daughter and heiress, Elizabeth,  married William O’Brien, second Marquess of Thomond. 

William, the second Marquis of Thomond, died in 1846 leaving four daughters and so his nephew, James, succeeded to the title and ownership of Duleek.  He died in 1855, without surviving male issue, and on his death the Marquisate of Thomond and Earldom of Inchiquin became extinct. 

The Smith family came into possession of the estate about 1854. St. George W. Smith, the third son of Henry J. Smith of Annesbrook, lived at Duleek House.  There are some interesting photos surviving of a wedding at Duleek House in 1901 with the groom dressed in the uniform of 1st Bombay Lancers. In 1901 Kate A. Smith, a widow of 55, and her daughter lived in the house. In 1911 Arthur Farrell, a land agent, was living in the house. Colonel E. St George Smith served in the First World War. In 1916 Major E. St George Smith, Royal Dublin Fusiliers appointed to command the 10th Battalion. A keen sportsman he had a tennis club and cricket club in the grounds of the house. The Smith family lived in the house until the 1950s. 

Charlesfort, Kells, Co Meath

Charlesfort, Kells, Co Meath

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London. 

p. 81. “(Tisdall/IFR) A two storey house of ca 1800, with a lower wing. Hall with Corinthian columns. Drawing room in early C18 style, with panelling. Library with simple frieze. Interior rearranged by Rev Daniel Beaufort. Sold ca 1971.” 

Not in National Inventory 

Record of Protected Structures: 

Charlesfort House, townland: Athgaine Little, town: Cortown. 

Detached, five-bay, two-storey over basement house, c.1812, with shallow hipped roof. 

The Landed Gentry and Aristocracy: County Meath. Volume 1. Art Kavanagh, 2005. 

Tisdall of Charlesfort. 

Picture 1526298877, Picture

Charlesfort House 

Charlesfort House, Cortown, Kells was erected and lived in by the Tisdall family. A low rectangular house Richard Castles prepared plans for the house which was later re-modelled by Daniel Beaufort and William Murray. The house which was erected in the 1740s was re-modelled in the 1780s and again about 1841. Mulligan said the house has an elegant entrance hall. The library, dining room and drawing room all have regency style plasterwork. The limestone porch is probably a late 19th century addition. 

In 1668 Michael Tisdall leased the manor of Martry from Nicholas Darcy. Michael lived at a house at Bloomsbury and called it Mount Tisdall. It is not clear if he erected that house. His grandson, Michael Tisdall, was M.P. for Kildare, Castlebar and Ardee in the late 1600s and early 1700s.   He was succeeded by his eldest son, Charles.  

Born in 1719 Charles Tisdall began the erection of a new house in April 1742. He selected an elevated and dry site at Athgaine, away from the river. It is said that a doctor advised him to move away from the river for the good of his health. Charles purchased a volume of books on Palladio’s architecture. The famous architect, Richard Castles, was paid £20 in 1743 for providing a plan for the house and supervising some of the work. Charles Tisdall attended the first performance of Handel’s Messiah in April 1742 in Dublin. Charles maintained an account of the building of the house and also recorded his tree planting for the years 1740-1751. In 1741 Charles planted 50 pear trees, 150 apple trees and 1,000 beech trees. In 1744 he planted 1,000 oak trees and 800 ash trees. More ash and elm trees were planted in 1746. The slates for the house were purchased from Reilly in Ballyjamesduff. Charles probably moved into Charlesfort in 1753. The following year, 1754, aged 34, Charles married Hester Cramer. In December 1755 their son, Michael, was born, and in October 1756 another son, Charles, was born. Charles, the father, died in 1757, aged 37 and was buried in Martry graveyard. 
Michael Tisdall inherited the estate but only took control on his coming of age in 1776. Additions were carried out to the house for Michael Tisdall, which were designed by Rev. Daniel Beaufort of Navan. Michael was High Sheriff of Meath in 1781. He died in 1794 aged 39 and was succeeded by his eldest son, Charles Arthur. 

Charles Arthur took over the estate at 21 years of age in 1803. Charles married Elizabeth Vernon of Clontarf Castle in 1807. In 1811 Charles was appointed High Sheriff for Meath. In 1813 the house underwent some works. Charles had an interest in religion and wrote and distributed two books attempting to persuade his tenants to convert to Protestantism. In 1824 he attended a meeting in Navan to found a branch of the Reformation Society. He stated that as a Magistrate “he was disgusted with the vice and immorality, the insincerity and want of truth in the commonest transactions” that he encountered. In the 1830s Charlesfort was described as the residence of Mr. C.A. Tisdall and a good two storey house with an extensive and well laid out demesne. Charles died in 1835 aged 53. 

John Tisdall took over the estate in 1836 at 21 years of age, the year after his father’s death. The following year he married Isabella Knox. Their eldest child, Charles Arthur, was born in 1838. John provided a site for a Protestant Church at Athgaine Great.  In 1883 John Tisdall held 3,962 acres in Meath, 493 in Limerick and 575 in Kilkenny a total estate of 5,030 acres. John died in 1892. John’s eldest son, Charles, had died in 1869. His second son, John Knox, appears to have been estranged from his father. John Knox’ son, also called Charles Arthur, born in 1875, inherited the estate on his grandfather’s death in 1892. As a young man he joined the Irish Guards and was reluctant to return to Ireland to take over Charlesfort. Robert Heuston leased Charlesfort from Major Tisdall. From Belfast Heuston was a noted polo player and resided at Charlesfort until 1904. Two of Major Tisdall’s uncles, Henry Chichester Tisdall and Vice-Admiral Vernon Archibold Tisdall also farmed portions of the estate. In 1904 half the estate was sold to the tenants. 

Major Tisdall organised train trips for the estate children to Dublin, once to see Queen Victoria in 1900 and on another occasion to watch army drills at the Vice-Regal Lodge in the Phoenix Park. Major Tisdall was a talented musician and a pupil and friend of Sir Edward Elgar who visited Charlesfort. Elgar said when he visited the house “Charlesfort will never die, because it is built on a magic hill.’  

In 1914 Major Tisdall was killed just a month after World War I broke out, killed in action in the retreat from Mons in Belgium. The Major’s brother, William, came to live at Charlesfort in 1904, inherited in 1914 and remained there until his death in 1954. During the First World War William stabled army horses at Charlesfort and tilled some of the land for vegetable growing. William was High Sheriff of Meath in 1921. He purchased the first tractor in the area and also the first wireless, which he invited local people to come and listen to. He also gave drives in his car to the local children at the parties he hosted on the estate. William’s son, Michael, was in the British army and was accidentally killed in 1940 during a military training exercise. He was 37 years old. William’s wife also died the same year. Five years later William married a second time. His wife was Una Palmer Burke from Ballina. William died aged 78 in 1954. 

William was succeeded by his cousin, Dr. Oliver Tisdall. Oliver and his family came to live on the estate in 1955 and he immersed himself in the running of it. When Oliver Tisdall came to Charlesfort he was unable to find the key for the Protestant church as the key had been mislaid some years before. After rummaging he came across a key which fitted the lock. Locals were surprised with the label on the key which read “the dungeon of Martry.” Apparently the key for the police cell at Martry RIC police barracks also opened the Protestant church. Oliver died in 1964 and his widow sold the property in 1968. 

In recent years the Hogan family have rescued the house and have restored it. 

There is considerable further information in “Charlesfort – The story of a Meath estate and its people, 1668-1968” by Tony Coogan and Jack Gaughran and also on the Ask about Ireland, Irish Libraries website. 

see https://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2022/04/tisdall-of-charlesfort.html

THE TISDALLS OWNED 3,962 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY MEATH

This is a branch of the ancient family of TISDALL in England, which bore arms “three pheons argent on a shield sable.” When, in 1679, Richard St George, Ulster King of Arms, ratified and confirmed the arms to Michael Tisdall, of Mount Tisdall, County Meath, and his brothers, he added “a thistle or,” for distinction, as is stated in the original certificate in Ulster’s office. 

The first of the family in Ireland was MICHAEL TISDALL, who had a sister, Catherine.

This Michael Tisdall was of Castleblayney, County Monaghan; he had issue, by his wife Ann  (née Singleton), seven sons and two daughters, namely,

MICHAEL, of whom presently;

James;

Thomas;

John;

Richard, father of Philip Tisdall;

George;

William, of Carrickfergus; father of William Tisdall;

Catherine; another daughter.

The eldest son,

MICHAEL TISDALL, of Mount Tisdall, County Meath, purchased in 1668 the Manor of Martry, County Meath (wherein the mansion of Charlesfort stands). 

He was Secondary of the Court of King’s Bench in Ireland, and JP for County Meath in 1679, when arms were granted to him and his brother James by Henry St George, Norroy and Ulster King of Arms.

Mr Tisdall married, in 1666, Anne, daughter of the Rev William Barry, Rector of Killucan, brother of Sir James Barry, Knight, 1st Baron Santry, Lord Chief Justice of the King’s Bench in Ireland, and had issue,

WILLIAM, his heir;

Michael;

Catherine; Elizabeth.

The elder son,

WILLIAM TISDALL (1668-1725), of Mount Tisdall, wedded Frances, third daughter of the Hon Robert FitzGerald, and sister of Robert, 19th Earl of Kildare, and by her had issue,

MICHAEL, his heir;

George (Rev Dr).

Mr Tisdall was succeeded by his elder son,

MICHAEL TISDALL (1672-1726), MP for Ardee, 1713-26, who espoused Catherine, daughter of the Rt Hon William Palmer, Principal Secretary in Ireland, Secretary for War, and Commissioner for Appeals, MP for Castlebar, 1695-9, 1703-13, and had issue,

CHARLES, his heir;

Michael;

Catherine; Frances.

He was succeeded by his elder son,

CHARLES TISDALL (1719-57), of Mount Tisdall, who built a new house on his manor of Martry, and called it CHARLESFORT, which has since been the designation of the family.

He married, in 1754, Hester, daughter of Oliver Cramer, second son of Oliver Cramer, of Ballyfoyle, County Kilkenny, by Hester his wife, daughter of Sir John Coghill, Knight, LL.D, Master in Chancery, and had issue,

MICHAEL, his heir;

Charles.

The elder son,

MICHAEL TISDALL (1755-94), of Charlesfort, County Meath, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1788, wedded, in 1779, Juliana, daughter and co-heir (with her sister Jane, who married George, 1st Baron Headley) of Arthur Blennerhassett, of Ballyseedy, County Kerry, and had issue,

CHARLES ARTHUR, his heir;

James (Rev);

Archibald, rear-admiral in the Royal Navy;

Juliana; Catherine.

Mr Tisdall wedded secondly, the widow of the Rev _______ Crow.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

CHARLES ARTHUR TISDALL (1782-1835), of Charlesfort, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1811, who espoused, in 1807, Elizabeth, daughter of John Vernon, of Clontarf Castle, County Dublin, and had issue,

JOHN, his heir;

William;

Archibald, major-general in the Army;

James;

Juliana; Henrietta; Elizabeth; Maria; Frances.

Mr Tisdall was succeeded by his eldest son,

JOHN TISDALL JP DL (1815-92), of Charlesfort, High Sheriff of County Meath, 1841, who married, in 1837, Isabella, daughter of the Hon George Knox, and had issue,

Charles Arthur, died unmarried 1869;

John Knox, father of CHARLES ARTHUR;

George William;

Henry Chichester;

Vernon Archibald;

Richard Louis;

Arthur James;

Alfred Oliver (Rev);

Harriet Elizabeth; Isabella Maria; Anne Charlotte.

Mr Tisdall was succeeded by his grandson,

CHARLES ARTHUR TISDALL (1875-1914), of Charlesfort, Major, Irish Guards, who wedded, in 1904, Gwynneth May, only child of Charles Adshead, and had issue, two daughters, of whom one was born in 1907.

In 1914 Major Tisdall died, just a month after the 1st World War broke out, killed in action in the retreat from Mons in Belgium.

The Major’s brother, William, came to live at Charlesfort in 1904, inherited in 1914 and remained there until his death in 1954.

During the 1st World War William stabled army horses at Charlesfort and tilled some of the land for vegetable growing.

William was High Sheriff of County Meath in 1921.

William’s son, Michael, was in the army and was accidentally killed in 1940 during a military training exercise.

William Tisdall’s wife also died the same year. Five years later William married a second time. His wife was Una Palmer Burke from Ballina.

William died aged 78 in 1954.

William was succeeded by his cousin, Dr Oliver Tisdall, who came with his family  to live on the estate in 1955 and he immersed himself in its activities.

Dr Tisdall died in 1964; his widow sold Charlesfort in 1968.

In recent years the Hogan family have rescued Charlesfort House and restored it.

Charlesfort (Image: Hogan’s Farm)

CHARLESFORT, near Kells, County Meath, is a Georgian house comprising two storeys with a lower wing.

The original house is said to have been built in the 1740s; remodelled in the 1780s; and again in 1841.

The hall has Corinthian columns, and the drawing-room – in the early 18th century style –  contains panelling.

Charlesfort (Image: Hogan’s Farm)

There is a frieze in the library.

The interior is said to have been rearranged by the Rev Daniel Beaufort.

MOLI (Museum of Literature Ireland), Newman House, 85-86 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin

Donation

Help me to fund my creation and update of this website. It is my “full time job” and created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated! My costs include travelling to our destinations from Dublin, accommodation if we need to stay somewhere nearby, and entrance fees. Your donation could also help with the cost of the occasional book I buy for research (though I mostly use the library – thank you Kevin Street library!). Your donation could also help with my Irish Georgian Society membership or attendance for talks and lectures, or the Historic Houses of Ireland annual conference in Maynooth.

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MOLI (Museum of Literature Ireland), Newman House, 85-86 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin

https://moli.ie

86 St Stephen’s Green, Newman House, which belongs to University College Dublin and now houses the Museum of Literature of Ireland. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The two storey over basement on the left of Newman House is 85 St Stephen’s Green. 85 St. Stephen’s Green was built in 1738 by Richard Castle, architect of Powerscourt House and Russborough House, and is notable for its exquisite baroque plasterwork by the Lafranchini brothers. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us:

No. 85 St. Stephen’s Green was built in 1738 by Richard Cassels, architect of Powerscourt House and Russborough House, and is notable for its exquisite baroque plasterwork by the Lafranchini brothers. The adjoining townhouse at No. 86 was constructed in 1765 and features superb examples of rococo stuccowork by the distinguished Dublin School of Plaster Workers.

85 St. Stephen’s Green was built for Captain Hugh Montgomerie. Robert O’Byrne tells us that Hugh was one of five children born to Sir Thomas Montgomerie  and Clemence Hovell. Clemence was married to Charles Stuart, who died in 1709, and her children with Thomas Montgomerie were born before her husband’s death so were illegitimate. [1]

In 1738 Hugh Montgomerie married Mary Bingham, eldest daughter of Sir John Bingham 5th Baronet of Castlebar, County Mayo, and it may have been her wealth that helped to build their new house on St. Stephen’s Green designed by Richard Castle (or Cassels). After Hugh Montgomerie’s death, Mary married Vesey Colclough (1734-1745), whom we came across when we saw Tintern Abbey in County Wexford.

86 St Stephen’s Green was constructed in 1765 and features superb examples of rococo stuccowork by the distinguished Dublin School of Plaster Workers. The wonderful lion over the door is made of lead. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

86 St Stephen’s Green is a granite-faced townhouse built in 1765 for Richard Chapel Whaley (d. 1796) who was called “Burn Chapel” Whaley due to his anti-Catholic sentiment. The “Chapel” or “Chapell” was really part of his name, from his mother’s family. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us “he was a fervent priest-hunter, and once while hunting a priest burned down a catholic chapel when he fired his fowling-piece into the roof and the wadding lodged in the thatch. Forever afterwards he was known as ‘Burn-Chapel ’ Whaley.”

It is ironic that Richard Chapel Whaley’s house is now owned by the Catholic university, University College Dublin, and named for Cardinal John Henry Newman (1801-1890) who famously converted from Protestantism to Catholicism, and by his example, encouraged many others to convert to Catholicism! The house may have been designed by Robert West, more famous as a stuccadore [2]. Much of the stucco work inside is in the style of Robert West – he may have done some of the work and it is thought that others were involved also. [2]

86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Robert West also designed Belvedere House, now Belvedere College, Dublin.

Richard Chapel Whaley (1700–69) wanted to create a house that dwarfed his neighbour in number 85, which was owned at that time by John Meade, 1st Earl Clanwilliam. 85 St. Stephen’s Green was known as Clanwilliam House.

The two houses, 85 and 86, were joined in the mid 19th century and named after Cardinal Newman (1801-90). Together they contain some of the most spectacular plasterwork in Ireland.

The MOLI website continues: “The building takes its name from the theologian and educationalist Dr. John Henry Newman, who was rector when the Catholic University was founded in 1854. UCD Newman House also boasts many literary and cultural associations. The poet Gerard Manley Hopkins lived here during his time as Professor of Classics at the university, and James Joyce was a student here before graduating with a BA in 1902. Other famous Irish writers to have studied at UCD Newman House include Flann O’Brien, Kate O’Brien and Maeve Binchy.

Explore the stunning surroundings and turbulent history of Numbers 85 and 86 St Stephen’s Green on MoLI’s Historic House Tour

These beautiful examples of Georgian opulence – with lavish stuccowork by the famous Lafranchini brothers – have served not only as a university and a museum, but also as the townhouse of Buck Whaley, one of Ireland’s most infamous playboys and adventurers. 

Join your guide as they bring you on a journey through these hidden historic rooms, witness these architectural treasures up close, and learn about the many fascinating characters that have passed through over the centuries.

86 St. Stephen’s Green is of five bays across, of four storeys over basement. It has a two bay entrance hall flanked by two further rooms, and the service stair is on the transverse axis between the entrance hall and the rear right-hand parlour, Christine Casey tells us. [3]

The grandness begins straight away when you enter MOLI – this stuccowork is behind the entrance desk, in 86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The stair hall decoration is particularly splendid. Acanthus ornament mixes with Rococo elements such as trophies of musical instruments, asymmetrical scrolls and birds distinctive of the Dublin school of plasterwork.

86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. The violins in the cartouches are actually real violins, which were easier than sculpting them from scratch! The coved ceiling includes acanthus leaves and high-relief birds with outstretched wings. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Rococo stucco work in Museum of Literature of Ireland (MOLI), 86 Stephen’s Green, Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Richard Chapel Whaley was the father of Thomas “Buck” Whaley (1766-1800). Thomas’s father died when he was only three years old, and Thomas inherited much property and wealth. He gambled away nearly everything he owned and died almost penniless aged just 34. [4] Another house he inherited was Castletown in County Carlow – not to be confused with the more well-known Castletown in County Kildare (or Castletown “Cox” in County Kilkenny), and also Whaley Abbey in County Wicklow. Jimmy O’Toole tells us that his annual income was the equivalent of about £700,000 today. Poor Buck Whaley was a gambler, and he made a bet that he could travel to Israel and back within two years. He won the wager, and £15,000. I read his memoir and he comes across as a lovely man despite his foibles.

Thomas “Buck” Whaley (1766-1800), c. 1780.
Buck Whaley’s Memoirs, courtesy Fonsie Mealy auction.
The sitter’s maiden name was Maria Courtney but for some seven or eight years before her death in 1798 in Douglas, Isle of Man, she was known as Mrs. Whaley. She was the constant companion of a wealthy and dissolute young Irishman, Thomas, or Buck, Whaley, by whom she had four children: Thomas, Richard, Ann, and Sophia Isabella. They lived in a house Buck Whaley built on the Isle of Man, where this portrait may have hung in the dining room. Portrait is attributed to George Chinnery, c. 1795. Picture courtesy of The Met, New York.

After his lover Maria Courtney died, he married Mary Catherine Lawless, sister of Valentine Lawless 2nd Baron Cloncurry.

Valentine Lawless, 2nd Baron Cloncurry, a portrait in 85 St. Stephen’s Green.

Thomas “Buck” Whaley’s sister Anne married John Fitzgibbon, later 1st Earl of Clare, who became Lord Chancellor of Ireland.

The front ground-floor drawing room is, Casey tells us, virtually identical to the now lost French Room at Charlemont House, the home of James Caulfeild, 1st Earl of Charlemont, a house built in 1763. The plaster and timber panels of the walls, Casey writes, appear to emulate the boiserie interiors of mid eighteenth century France.

86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Our friend Claire accompanied with us on our tour, who was visiting us from Greece. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The tiny portrait head might be a representation of Richard Chapel Whaley, Christine Casey tells us. 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of the yellow room, MOLI. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Great Room, three bays wide and overlooking St. Stephen’s Green, is not normally part of the MOLI tour, but our guide let us pop our heads in to marvel at the plasterwork. It is let to the School of Music. It has an elaborate and stylized bird ceiling, similar to one by Filippo Lafranchini at 9 St. Stephen’s Green. [see 3].

The Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
We popped our heads quickly into the Great Room, or music room, not normally part of the tour as it is let out to the School of Music. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of the Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of the Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of the Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of the Great Room, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Bishop’s Room is to the rear of the house. It has a Rococo ceiling composed of interlocking C-scrolls and acanthus ornament. The front drawing room has a Rococo ceiling with a flock of birds encircling the central boxx, “rocaille-backed scrolls” in the corners, flower baskets and garlands of flowers.

86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The front drawing room has a Rococo ceiling with a flock of birds encircling the central boxx, “rocaille-backed scrolls” in the corners, flower baskets and garlands of flowers, 86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Bossi fireplace, 86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We then went outside on the tour to enter 85 St Stephen’s Green, next door. This is a smaller building, a Neo-Palladian urban palazzo designed by Richard Castle for Captain Hugh Montgomerie (d. 1741), built for entertaining! It has a rusticated granite street front, a Venetian window overhead formed by pedimented openings, and a balustraded parapet. The strict symmetry of the front hides an asymmetrical interior.

The two storey over basement on the left is 85 St. Stephen’s Green. 85 St. Stephen’s Green was built in 1738 by Richard Castle, architect of Powerscourt House and Russborough House, and is notable for its exquisite baroque plasterwork by the Lafranchini brothers. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

85 St. Stephen’s Green is of three bays and two storeys. Its lower floor is rusticated, and the first floor has a central Venetian window. Inside, it has a two bay entrance hall with a screen of two rounded arches opeing to the stair hall behind. On the right is a single bay front parlour, called the Apollo Room. The stair hall is flanked by a back parlour, and their is a service stair behind the stair hall, and a third room projecting out the back. [3] Christine Casey describes the spatial sequence as Baroque, and points out that it shows us the link Castle had to the Vanbrugh-Pearce circle of architects. The hall retains its eighteenth century flagsone, wainscoting and Kilkenny marble chimneypiece.

Entrance hall of 85 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Apollo Room, Newman House 1953, Dublin City Library and Archives. [5]

I don’t think we entered the Apollo room. Christine Casey tells us that it is rich in stucco ornament, which is accepted to be by Paolo and Filippo Lafranchini. Around the walls are high-relief almost Neoclassical figures of the Nine Muses set in moulded rectangular frames. I mistook the picture in Dublin City Library and Archives (below) to be of Riverstown House in County Cork, which is very similar.

Newman House 1953, Dublin City Library and Archives. [5]
Lafranchini plasterwork, Riverstown, County Cork. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Christine Casey tells us that the stair is mahogany with finely crafted Tuscan balusters and carved tread ends. The upper stair hall, she tells us, was much altered in the nineteenth century and a reconstruction of its ceiling and plasterwork was recently installed, based on an outline of the original scheme found behind the nineteenth century plaster.

Staircase of 85 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Floating mahogany staircase in 85 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This is the crest of the La Touche family, who later owned into 85 St Stephen’s Green. George La Touche lived in 85 St. Stephen’s Green in the 1820s. [5] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

At the head of the stair is the ante-room to the saloon, which was much altered c. 1830 by Judge Nicholas Ball (the last private owner), who cut through the ceiling and created an elegant top-lit galleried library. A large extension with a canted bow was built across the back wall of the house in the early nineteenth century, creating a new reception room on each floor, blocking the light into the now windowless ground floor parlour and first floor ante-room.

The ante-room in 85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green, portrait of Valentine Lawless, 2nd Baron Cloncurry, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The toplit galleried library ante-room in 85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Great Room or Saloon is the full width of the house and overlooks St. Stephen’s Green. The stucco work is by the Lafranchini brothers Paolo and Filippo. The room is entered by a pair of Corinthian doorcases. It is lit by a central Venetian window flanked by two sash windows, all with Corinthian frames.

Newman House 1953, Dublin City Library and Archives. A layer of plasterwork has been added below the dentil cornice in this photograph, as we can see in my photographs. [2]

The frieze below the dentil cornice was deed relatively recently and was copied from the saloon frieze at Tyrone House. [see 3]

The cove, Christine Casey tells us, is ornamented with six lobed ovals containing figure groups, two on each of the long walls and one at each end. These are linked by a frieze of putti who grasp and swing from the oak garlands!

The Saloon in 85 St Stephen’s Green occupies the full width of the front. It has a high relief coved ceiling, a masterpiece by the Swiss Lafranchini brothers Paolo (1695-1776) and Filippo (1702-79). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Venetian window of 85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Richard Castle’s grand late Baroque chimneypiece, reconstructed by Dick Reid of York on the basis of an early twentieth century survey and a surviving fragment, 85 St. Stephen’s Green. [see 3] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The figures of Prudence and Justice at each end of the room derive from paintings by Simon Vouet in the Salon de Mars at Versailles, Christine Casey tells us.

85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At some point, the Jesuits took over 85 St Stephen’s Green. They did not like all of the naked women in the plasterwork so they gave the women “bodices.” Most were later removed when the plasterwork was restored but one bodice was left on, as you can see above, to show how they were done! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Putti swinging on garlands of oak leaves, 85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The canted bow room at the back of 85 St. Stephen’s Green looks on to the Iveagh Gardens.

The back part of 85 St Stephen’s Green is a later addition, including this room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
85 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view of the garden from this room, and beyond, to the Iveagh Gardens. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

From this room we went through a narrow door cut in the wall and up a flight of stairs to the Bishop’s Room, which is back in 86 St Stephen’s Green.

The main part of the Museum of Literature is in back rooms of number 86.

86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green.
That’s James Joyce near the tree on the left, second from the tree at the back.
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After our house tour we browsed the Museum, then went for a delicious sandwich in the cafe and sat in the gardens.

85/86 St. Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The back of 86 St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://theirishaesthete.com/2014/11/17/the-most-beautiful-room-in-ireland/

[2] https://theirishaesthete.com/2015/02/25/virtuosic/

[3] Casey, Christine. The Buildings of Ireland: Dublin. The City Within the Grand and Royal Canals and the Circular Road with the Phoenix Park. Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2005.

[4] p. 125, O’Toole, Jimmy, The Carlow Gentry: What will the neighbours say! Published by Jimmy O’Toole, Carlow, Ireland, 1993. Printed by Leinster Leader Ltd, Naas, Kildare. 

[5] Dublin City Library and Archives. https://repository.dri.ie

[6] https://www.greystonesahs.org/gahs3/index.php/talks-and-visits?view=article&id=214

Ledwithstown, Ballymahon, County Longford 

Ledwithstown, Ballymahon, County Longford 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 183. “A very perfect small early C18 house of two storeys over high basement, possibly by Richard Castle. Three bay front, tripartite doorway with pediment extending over door and side-lights, on pilaters which stand on miniature rusticated basements; broad flight of steps to hall door. Solid roof parapet; windows surrounds with keystones; bold quoins. Symmetrical rear elevation, wiht blocking round windows and central basement door. Deep hall with chimneypiece of black Kilkenny marble. Plaster panelling in ground floor rooms, with occasional shell and other ornament; wood panelling upstairs. Seat of the Ledwiths, became derelict, now being restored.” 

Ledwithstown, County Longford, photograph courtesy of Mark Bence-Jones, A Guide to Irish Country Houses.
Ledwithstown House, County Longford, by Peter Murray, 2020, courtesy Irish Georgian Society.

https://www.igs.ie/conservation/project/ledwithstown-house-co-longford

Ledwithstown House, Co. Longford

The design of Ledwithstown House has been attributed to Richard Castle, or Cassels, an architect who, in 1728, came to Ireland, from the city of Kassel in northern Hesse, Germany. Castle came at the invitation of Sir Gustavus Hume, of Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, and over the course of a long and successful career designed many buildings, including the Printing House in Trinity College, the Conolly Folly, Leinster House, and Russborough House in Co. Wicklow. Castle also has a number of lesser-known houses attributed to him, including Ledwithstown in Co. Longford. With its Doric temple portico surrounding the entrance door, the exterior of Ledwithstown is plain, almost severe. There is no pretty semi-circular fanlight here; instead three plain squares of glass, and two windows flanking the entrance door that provide light to the hallway. Although relatively small, the windows on the façade are surrounded by heavy stone frames, making them appear larger. Thick glazing bars reinforce the early eighteenth-century character of this house. The attribution to Richard Castle is reasonable, as is the date 1746. All the architectural components have been carefully considered, and a sense of proportion—a term often over-used in relation to eighteenth-century architecture—infuses every element, up to and including the two chimney stacks, which are arranged parallel to the façade. The roof is partly concealed by an elaborate cornice, adding to the Palladian grandeur. The severity of Ledwithstown’s temple front, with its plain pilasters and rusticated base, is relieved by a Baroque flourish of balustrade and steps that lead to the entrance door. Other country houses by, or attributed to Castle include Hazelwood in Co. Sligo and Bellinter House in Co. Meath.

IGS Grants — 2001: repairs to interior decorative plasterwork; 2006: restoration of panelled rooms

The work of the Irish Georgian Society is supported through the Heritage Council’s ‘Heritage Capacity Fund 2022’.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/13402217/ledwithstown-house-ledwithstown-co-longford

Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached three-bay two-storey over raised basement house, built 1746. Hipped natural slate roof hidden behind parapet wall with pronounced moulded cut stone eaves course and with cut stone coping over. Pair of tall dressed ashlar limestone chimneystacks, aligned along with roof ridge, having moulded cut stone coping over. Sections of cast-iron rainwater goods remain, cast-iron hopper dated 1857. Roughcast rendered walls over rubble stone construction; cut stone block-and-start quoins to the corners and chamfered cut stone string course above basement level. Square-headed window openings with replacement nine-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows having cut limestone surrounds with architraves and prominent keystone, and with tooled limestone sills. Central cut stone tripartite Tuscan doorcase to main elevation (south) comprising tetrastyle limestone pilasters resting on rusticated ashlar limestone base section and surmounted by carved pediment. Timber panelled door with overlight and having flanking six-over-four pane timber sliding sidelights. Doorway accessed by flight of moulded cut stone steps flanked to either side (east and west) by splayed rendered walls with cut stone coping over and having terminating cut stone piers (on square-plan) to base with moulded capstones over. Square-headed door opening to the east elevation having cut limestone block-and-start surround with prominent keystone, replacement timber door and a plain overlight. Set back from road in extensive mature grounds to the rural landscape to the south of Keenagh and to the northwest of Ballymahon. Long straight approach avenue to house from the south. Gateway to the south comprising a pair of dressed ashlar limestone gate piers (on square-plan) having moulded plinths and stepped capstones with moulded cornice detail. Single-bay single-storey outbuilding to the southeast of house having rubble stone walls and pitched corrugated-metal roof. Rubbles stone boundary walls to road-frontage and to site. 

Appraisal 

This sophisticated middle-sized house is one of the most important elements of the architectural heritage of County Longford. Its design has been attributed to the eminent architect Richard Castle (died 1751) who was probably the foremost architect working in Ireland at the time of construction and has been credited with the dissemination of the Palladian architectural style throughout rural Ireland. Ledwithstown House has quite a robust appearance on account of the heavy parapet with pronounced eaves cornice and by the large tall ashlar chimneystacks that are aligned along with the front elevation. Although built using rubble stone masonry, this building is well-detailed with high quality, if robust, cut limestone trim in features like the window surrounds and the heavy eaves cornice. The good-quality dressed limestone quoins to the corners help to emphasise the stocky appearance of this building. The fine Tripartite doorcase with pediment is strongly detailed and provides a central focus to the main elevation. This central focus is further enhanced by the flight of cut stone steps with flanking walls having splayed bases. The house is further enhance by its long and straight drive aligned with the centre of the front elevation, which creates a sense of grandeur and generates a sense of anticipation when approaching the house. The well-crafted gate piers at the start of this driveway complete the setting and add substantially to this important composition. This building has been recently restored after a long period of near-derelict. Ledwithstown House was the home of the Ledwith family from its construction until c. 1900. The Ledwith family were an important in County Longford from c. 1650, and throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and a number of family members served as Grand Jurors and as High Sheriff of the county (High Sheriffs included George Ledwith in 1764 – 5; James in 1792 – 3, Richard in 1807 and Edward in 1847 – 8). 

Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.

 
featured in Great Irish Houses. Forewards by Desmond FitgGerald, Desmond Guinness. IMAGE Publications, 2008. 

p. 200. “Ledwithstown House in the north midlands was built in 1746 by Edward Ledwith and occupied by the family until the later part of the 19th century. Among the family members who resided there were the Reverend Palmer in the 1770s and Captain James Smyth Ledwith in the later half of the 19th century.  

The Anglo-Norman family of Ledwith was established in County Meath as early as 1270 but the first evidence of the family in south County Longford comes in the middle of the 17th century. Ledwithstown House is probably the work of the great German architect Richard Castle, Officer of the Engineers, who came to Ireland in 1727 to design a house for Sir Gustavus Hume in County Fermanagh. He became one of the most prominent architects in Ireland and contributed to many of the great houses of the 18th century including Leinster House, Powerscourt and Carton. 

In 1893, William Ledwith, son of Captain James Smyth Ledwith, leased the house to Thomas Ronaldson and he purchased the property in 1903, thus ending the Ledwith family association with the house. Lawrence Feeney, grandfather of the present owner, bought the house in 1911. During the 1920s, at a time of political unrest in Ireland, Mr Feeney’s widow and family moved out the of the house. For the next six decades the house would be lived in by an assortment of family members, squatters and local eccentrics, until the Feeney family repossessed it in 1981. 

Much damage had been done over the years: parts of the roof were falling in, panelling had been removed for firewood and the windows were in a sorry state. With the assistance of the Irish Georgian Society, the owners, Edward Feeney and his wife Mary, have set about restoring and redecorating the house. “I suppose if we had known what lay in store we might never have gone near it,” Edward Feeney says, looking back on the difficulties they encountered. “But we were young and foolish and it was too beautiful a house to leave to fall into complete disrepair. Initially we wanted to just stop the rot nd keep the weather out of the house. Our approach was to take it one step at a time.” 

Today the estate has shrunk to 200 acres, having swelled to 2,500 in the middle of the 18th century, yet the family continue to farm the land. They have kept the house as close to the original as possible. “The house is so well designed that there wouldn’t be much point making changes,” says Mary Feeney. “We have always loved the proportions of the house.” 

Edward Feeney adds, “Structurally it’s quite modest but it has a typical Castle entrance and a very well-planned layout. We are not certain that Castle was the designer, but the overall structure and the black Kilkenny marble fireplaces would seem to confirm his hand at work. Also, several other houses he worked on at the time, including Belvedere in Mullingar, are not all that far from Ledwithstown. So it’s entirely possible.” 

The entrance hall was last decorated in the 1850s. The cornice had to be replaced over the main door and much work was done on the ceilings. Conservation expert Mary McGrath also worked on the colour schemes, and a pale grey thought to be the original colouring was found on the panelling and window and door surrounds. McGrath explains: “In the summertime the door was probably open all the time and in the winter there would have been a fire in the hearth. So of all of the rooms of the house, the hallway was probably painted most often. All of the early coats would have been distemper and as the procedure was to dust off the loose paint and to wash down the walls, it is difficult to be certain about the full sequence of colours.” 

[p. 203] “The black Kilkenny marble fireplace in the hall is original and has a black shell motif. Much of the original contents of the house had been sold during an auction in 1911, with the remainder dispersed during subsequent decades. Almost all the furniture has been brought into the house over the last two decades, including a family piano, which stands in front of the fireplace. 

The breakfast room contains a fine 1859 Italian marble fireplace. Consultant historic buildings conservator Richard Ireland, who was responsible for the restoration of the surfaces of Castletown, underpinned the remaining plasterwork on the ceiling of this room in 2002. George o’Malley, who is based in County Wicklow, worked on the plasterwork with his father, Tom, who came out of retirement ages 82 to work at Ledwithstown. 

When the current owners took over the house, a large tree was growing in the centre of the drawing room and out through the roof. Today the room has been beautifully restored. A local craftsman, who copied a surviving example, replaced the shuttering. The fireplace is not original and dates to sometime in the 1860s. The chandelier was a choice of the owners and the sofas were all bought in Ireland. Many of the pieces of furniture, including a fine Irish table, were bought at auction. 

While oil heating has been installed, the family may convert to wood pellets to reduce energy costs. The rooms are modest in scale – the ceilings not quite as high as many Irish country houses of similar scale – so the house is already relatively efficient. 

A “Marrakech” red has been chosen for the dining room, which also has a Kilkenny marble fireplace. The table was bought at an auction in Birr. The library, which has a fireplace taken from upstairs, contains some of the few pieces of original furniture including the bookcase and a round circular table. A local dealer told Edward Feeney’s mother that the table, then stored in a nearby hen house, had come out of the house during the auction in 1911. The table was purchased for £4.50 

The green bedroom upstairs which has fine wood panelling and a shell motif Kilkenny marble fireplace. The Georgian cream coloured curtains offset the green of the walls. In the master bedroom the wood panelling is being restored by local craftsman Coleman Lovett and an adjacent powder room is being converted into an en suite bathroom. Edward and Mary’s dedication to the restoration of this house and its historic gardens will ensure that Ledwithstown rightfully takes its place as one of Ireland’s great houses.” 

Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.  

p. 142 

http://visitlongford.ie/listings/ledwithstown-house/ 

Ledwithstown House is a handsome Georgian country house, situated outside the town of Ballymahon, and has been described as a “miniature gem” by architectural historians. 

It is believed to have been designed c.1730 by the eminent architect Richard Castle, who died in 1751. Castle, or Cassels, was probably the foremost architect in Ireland at the time of construction and was one of the greatest proponents of Palladian architecture in Ireland. 

His domestic villas were strongly influenced by the designs of Italian architect Andrea Palladio, who designed elegant, symmetrical houses with classical details inspired by the architecture of ancient Rome. 

Ledwithstown House has solid, robust appearance with a pleasing symmetrical design, typical of Palladian villas. It features finely-carved cut limestone trim, such as the window surrounds and the heavy eaves cornice that runs along the top of the walls. 

The good-quality dressed limestone quoins to the corners help to emphasise the stocky appearance of this building. The doorcase is especially attractive and provides a central focus to the main elevation, and is further enhanced by the flight of stone steps to its base. 

The house has undergone an extensive programme of conservation and renovation by the present owners from the 1970s onwards, with support of agencies such as the Irish Georgian Society (www.igs.ie). 

Ledwithstown House was the residence of the Ledwith family from its construction to around 1900. The Ledwith family were an important family in County Longford from 1650 onwards. Successive generations of family members served in public office as grand jurors, or as high sheriff of the county, including George Ledwith who was the high sheriff in 1764; James Ledwith in 1792, Richard in 1807 and Edward in 1847. 

Ledwithstown House is privately owned by the Feeney family. 

‘The townland, and chief part of the demesne of Ledwithstown, are in this parish (Shruel), though the dwelling house and offices are in the parish of Kilcommack. It has been long the residence of a respectable family of the name of Ledwith, who possess a considerable property in this neighbourhood.’ A Statistical Account, or Parochial Survey, of Ireland, 1819. 
In 1976 Maurice Craig wrote of Ledwithstown, County Longford, ‘there can be few houses of its size in Ireland more thoroughly designed, and with internal decoration so well integrated.’ The house has long been attributed to Richard Castle and is one of three such properties considered to have been designed by the architect, the other two being Gaulstown, County Westmeath (see Gallia Urba est Omnis Divisa in Partes Tres, February 24th 2014) and Whitewood Lodge, County Meath (see An Appalling Vista, February 9th last). In their form and composition this triumvirate demonstrates a steadily growing assurance, with Ledwithstown displaying by far the greatest sophistication and thus inclining to the idea that it was the latest, probably dating from the second half of the 1740s (Castle died in 1751). Relatively little is known of the building’s history, other than that until 1911 it was owned, although not always occupied, by the Ledwith family who settled in the area around 1650. Members of that now-vanished class, the gentry, the Ledwiths played their part in local society as Grand Jurors and High Sheriffs but otherwise came little to public notice. The same is true of their former home, which despite its considerable charm, can be passed unnoticed on the public highway: again like Gaulstown and Whitewood, Ledwithstown lies at the end of an exceptionally long, straight drive. 

As with Gaulstown and Whitewood, Ledwithstown is a three-bay house of two storeys over a semi-raised basement. With all three the main entrance is approached by a flight of stone steps; in this instance, the supporting walls splay out to create the impression of a ceremonial approach to the door. In the case of the other two properties, the doorcase is relatively plain, of cut limestone with a fanlight (that at Gaulstown also has side lights). Ledwithstown’s south-facing doorcase is altogether more elaborate, a cut-stone tripartite Tuscan design incorporating tetrastyle pilasters resting on rusticated base and surmounted by carved pediment. Such an entrance immediately indicates this is a building with greater aspirations than those of its siblings. In other respects, however, the facade of Ledwithstown is closer in spirit to Whitewood than to Gaulstown, sharing the same heavy parapet wall concealing the greater part of a slated roof with a pair of substantial chimneystacks (those at Gaulstown are at either gable end). Likewise Ledwithstown and Whitewood have raised corner quoins which add further gravitas to the building, the most striking differences between the two being that Whitewood’s facade is of cut stone (as opposed to roughcast render over rubble stone) and Ledwithstown’s first floor fifteen-pane sash windows share the same proportions as those one storey below (their equivalents at Whitewood are smaller). 

The interior design and decoration of Ledwithstown is much more elaborate than either of the two houses with which it bears comparison. Although measuring just forty-eight by forty-seven feet, it can be considered a country house in miniature, the layout being identical to that found in many larger properties. There are, for example, two staircases, that to the west, of carved wood, serving only the ground and first floors while secondary service stairs of stone to the east also descend to the basement area. Immediately inside the entrance hall are doors to left and right providing access to the former morning room and study; a matching pair to the rear open to the staircases while one in the centre of the back wall leads to the drawing room. Here and in the adjacent dining room, the walls retain their mid-18th century plaster panelling, that in the drawing room being especially fine with a combination of lugged and round topped panels topped by swags or baskets of fruit and shells. Similarly the main staircase, lit by a round-topped window, has timber wainscoting and leads to a panelled first floor landing with egg-and-dart and dentil cornicing; one of the rooms on this level is entirely panelled in wood and others still contain their shallow limestone chimney pieces. The basement likewise keeps much of its original character with a sequence of rooms opening off a central stone-flagged and vaulted central passage. 

In 1911 Ledwithstown was bought from the original family by Laurence Feeney. However, following his premature death just six years later, the house was let to a variety of tenants none of whom took care of the property; seemingly a brother and sister who lived there for a while removed all the door and shutter knobs, while another family allowed the chimneys to become blocked and then knocked holes in the walls to permit smoke escape. In 1976 Maurice Craig described Ledwithstown as being ‘unhappily in an advanced state of dilapidation, perhaps not beyond recovery’ and two years later Mark Bence-Jones wrote that the place was ‘now derelict.’ However, around this time the original Laurence Feeney’s grandson, likewise called Laurence, married and he and his wife Mary began to consider the possibility of restoring Ledwithstown. 
The couple, together with their children, initiated work on the house and in 1982 they were visited by Desmond Guinness. Soon afterwards the Irish Georgian Society offered its first grant to Ledwithstown, the money being put towards replacing the roof. Further financial aid from the IGS followed, along with voluntary work parties to help the Feeneys in their enterprise. By 1987 Ledwithstown had a new roof and parapet and was once more watertight. Inevitably sections of the reception rooms’ plaster panelling and other decoration had been lost to damp, but enough remained for it to be copied and replaced. The same was true of the main stair hall and sections of the first floor wood panelling, all of which was gradually replaced: when new floors were installed on this level in 1990 surviving panelled walls had to be suspended in mid-air to facilitate the removal of decayed boards. Ledwithstown demonstrates that even the most rundown building can be saved provided the task is approached with enough commitment. Today, more than thirty years after they embarked on their mission, the Feeneys remain happily living in what is, above all else, a family home. So too are both Gaulstown and Whitewood Lodge, making this another trait all three houses share. 

Waterston (or Waterstown) House, Athlone, Co Westmeath

Waterston (or Waterstown) House, Athlone, Co Westmeath

Waterston, County Westmeath, garden front c. 1910. Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 282. “(Harris-Temple, sub Harris, B/PB) p. 282. “(Harris-Temple, sub Harris, B/PB) A very handsome three storey seven bay house by Richard Castle, with a solid roof parapet, rusticated window surrounds on the ground floor and a pedimented and rusticated doorway. Built ca 1749 for Gustavus Handcock, MP, ancestor of the Temple family who subsequently owned it; and whose heiress was the second wife of 2nd Lord Harris. Brick gateway, hermitage, dovecot. The house is now in ruins.” 

Paddy Rossmore. Photographs. Edited by Robert O’Byrne. The Lilliput Press, Dublin 7, 2019.

“Only five bays of the original seven-bay garden front survive to indicate the scale of Waterstown, built around 1745 to the designs of Richard Castle. The land on which it stands was originally owned by a branch of the Dillon family and supposedly they erected a castle here although no evidence of it survives. The estate was acquired in the middle of the seventeenth century by William Handcock, originally from Lancashire. It was his grandson Gustavus Handcock who, following marriage to Elizabeth, only daughter and heiress of Robert Temple of Mount Temple in the same county, embarked on building a new residence here. Of three storeys over basement and faced with cut limestone, Waterstown seems to have mostly impressed thanks to its scale. The architectural features were undistinguished and the surviving interior wall shows the remains of the period’s standard plaster panelling. Passing through the female linke on one occasion in the nineteenth cnetury, Waterstown remained in the possession of Gustavus and Elizabeth Handcock’s descendants until 1923 when the place was sold to the Land Commission. Thereafter the condition of the ouse quickly deteriorated, and in 1928 a new owner stripped it of anythign valuable: the main Gibbsian doorcase went to another house while the principal estate gates can now be seen outside St Mel’s cathedral, Longford. A number of outbuildings and follies survive in the former demesne.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

Tudenham Park (formerly Rochfort), Mullingar, Co Westmeath – ruin

Tudenham Park (formerly Rochfort), Mullingar, Co Westmeath

Tudenham Park, County Westmeath entrance front 1961, photograph: Hugh Doran, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Tudenham Park, County Westmeath, courtesy of Sherry FitzGerald Davitt & Davitt Mullingar.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 26. “(Rochfort, sub Belvedere, E/DEP; Hopkins, Bt, of Athboy/PB1860; Tottenham/IFR) p. 26. “(Rochfort, sub Belvedere, E/DEP; Hopkins, Bt, of Athboy/PB1860; Tottenham/IFR) A large three storey block of ca 1742 by the side of Lough Ennell; attributed by the Knight of Glin to Richard Castle. Built for George Rochfort, brother of 1st Earl of Belvedere, who lived alongside him at Belvedere; and who, having quarrelled with him, built a large sham ruin to shut out the view of his brother’s house. Faced with ashlar which appears to have been re-pointed mid-C19. Entrance front with central niche and oculus above a Doric columned doorcase. Side elevations with central curved bows. Large hall with a fireplace on either side; large and lofty reception rooms, some with covered cornices in the style of Robert West. Two storey upper hall with well gallery and glass dome which, like the staircase widow, was reglazed with stained glass. Terrace near house overlooking the water. Immense Victorian entrance gates, railing and lodge. Sold ca 1836 to Sir Francis Hopkins, 2nd Bt, who left it to his sister, Anna Maria, wife of N.L. Tottenham; its name was subsequently changed from Rochfort to Tudenham Park. Used as a hospital during WWI, and occupied by the military in WWII. Stood empty and derelict for some years, demolished ca 1957, now a shell.” 

Tudenham Park, Co Westmeath, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

p. 144. “A large three storey house of very high quality built c. 1742 for George Rochfort and attributed to Richard Castle. Very fine interior which included a large entrance hall with screens of columns at both ends. Some reception rooms and the main staircase were altered c. 1790 and had good neo-classical plasterwork. The house was stripped c. 1957-58 and is now a ruin which should be preserved.”

In Blake, Tarquin. Abandoned Mansions of Ireland. Collins Press, Cork, 2010. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/15402617/tudenham-park-rochfort-demesne-co-westmeath

Detached seven-bay three-storey over basement country house, built c.1743, with projecting full-height bows to the centre of the west and east side elevations. Later return to rear (south). Later in use as a military hospital (1914-1919). Now out of use and a roofless overgrown shell. Shallow hipped natural slate roof, now collapsed, having a pair of cut limestone chimneystacks to the centre, aligned parallel with former roof ridge, having moulded ashlar cornices over. Constructed of ashlar limestone with extensive cut limestone detailing, including a heavy moulded eaves cornice, raised quoins to the corners and a string course at first floor level. Square-headed window openings, diminishing in size towards eaves, with moulded cut stone architraved surrounds and cut stone sills. Central round-headed pedimented tripartite Doric doorcase to south façade having four columns supporting entablature and pediment over. Fittings to all openings now gone. Round-headed niche flanked by Ionic pilasters over central doorcase at first floor level with a circular/oculus niche over to second floor having a scrolled console bracket to base. Interior now gutted but retaining some fragments of original plasterwork to ground floor walls. Located in extensive grounds on the western shores of Lough Ennell to the south of Mullingar. Remains of former outbuildings to the northeast and former main entrance gates and attendant gate lodge (15402616) to the east. 

Appraisal 

Though Tudenham Park sadly now survives only as a roofless shell, this building is of high architectural and artistic significance and retains good quality cut stone detailing throughout. This enormous Palladian edifice was built for George Rochfort, a brother of Robert Rochfort of Belvedere House (15402615), and was designed by the same architect as Belvedere, namely Richard Castle. Tudenham Park shares with Belvedere the bow projections to the side elevations, but it is built on a much larger scale than its neighbour to the north and does not display as much ingenuity in its design. The regularity of the main façade is only broken by the central arrangement of architectural motifs to the centre of the main façade, namely the tripartite doorcase with a blank Venetian niche over and the oculus opening to the second floor. This central arrangement is a typical feature of much of Castle’s work and of Palladian architecture in this part of Ireland in general. Tudenham Park played an important role in the development of the planned landscape at Belvedere to the north and its scale probably pre-empted the erection of ‘The Jealous Wall’ (15402614) to the north, which was built to shield Robert Rochfort’s view of his brother’s enormous pile to the south. Tudenham House was later sold to Sir Francis Hopkins, c.1837 and to the Tottenham Family c.1870. It was later used as a hospital during World War I and was still in military ownership until after 1945 and was gutted and de-roofed in 1957. Although the building is badly overgrown it is pleasing to find surviving fragments of plaster panelling to the interior. In addition the remnants of the former service buildings to the rear are of note and have some good examples of brick vaulting. Tudenham Park is beautifully sited on the shores of Lough Ennell and is an important part of the architectural heritage of Westmeath.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/15402616/tudenham-park-rochfort-demesne-co-westmeath

Detached three-bay single-storey former gate lodge on cruciform plan, dated 1865, with a projecting open two-bay porch to the north side. Originally served Tudenham Park (15402617) to the west and now in use as an office for the Fisheries Board. Later return to rear (south). Shallow hipped natural slate roof hidden behind a raised moulded limestone parapet perforated with circular openings. Constructed of bush-hammered dressed limestone over a moulded ashlar plinth with extensive ashlar limestone trim, including a string course, eaves cornice and garland panels. Round-headed window openings having cut limestone surrounds with projecting keystone detail over, moulded sills to west and east elevations and one-over-one pane timber sliding sash windows. Paired round-headed openings to east elevation with replacement windows. Paired round-headed openings to porch on north elevation, supported by a central shared cut stone column with a foliate capital over. Further paired cut stone pillars on square plan to east and west ends of porch (north). Central recessed square-headed doorcase to porch having a timber panelled door with a cut limestone surround having rounded corners to head and flanked to either side (east and west) by narrow window lights with cut stone surrounds. Cut limestone datestone over centre of porch with polychrome tiles to porch floor. Located adjacent to attendant gates (east), erected 1865, comprising five moulded ashlar limestone gate piers with cornices and recessed panels, linked by sections of ashlar limestone plinth walling with decorative cast-iron railings over. Gate piers to the north of the lodge support cast-iron double gates. Located to the east of Tudenham Park (15402617) and to the south of Mullingar. 

Appraisal 

A highly appealing and well-executed Italianate gate lodge and associated main entrance gates serving Tudenham Park (15402617). The building and associated gates are richly decorated with cut stone and cast-iron work of a high artistic standard and value. The juxtaposition of the bush hammered stonework and the smooth ashlar dressings, offers a pleasant textural contrast to the façade of this robust structure. Of good proportions and embellished with a full decorative scheme, this building contrasts sharply with a number of the more modest former gate lodges to the north. The Italianate style of this gate lodge also contrasts appealing with the more rigid form of the earlier Palladian style used at Tudenham Park itself. It is now rare to find a gate lodge in such good condition, which retains its original ground plan and which has not been altered significantly to accommodate new owners or a new use. This fine lodge and its attendant gateway replaced an earlier gateway and lodge to the south, now demolished, and forms part of an important group of related structures with Tudenham Park (15402617), representing an integral element of the architectural heritage of Westmeath.  

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/06/04/tudenham/

The Cause of Jealousy

by theirishaesthete



As mentioned a few days ago, in the mid-18th century the first Earl of Belvedere quarreled with his brother George Rochfort and so built the ‘Jealous Wall’, a sham folly that obscured the view of the younger man’s house further south on Lough Ennell. Here is the property in question, Tudenham Park, which, like Belvedere itself, is believed to have been designed by Richard Castle. However, whereas Belvedere is really a villa, this is a proper country house, of three storeys over basement with bowed projections on either side and a seven-bay entrance front, its plainness relieved by the pedimented tripartite Doric doorcase with round-headed niche above and then a circular bracketed niched below the parapet. Occupied by successive families until the early 20th century, Tudenham Park then became a hospital and was in military ownership until the 1950s when unroofed and left a shell. Some 15 or so years ago, plans were hatched to rescue the building and restore it to use but these came to nothing, so it remains the ruin seen in these pictures.

For sale Sept 2023 

Tudenham Park House, Mullingar, Westmeath  

POA 

Description  

Summary 18th Century period house on 2.33 Hectares 24.06 Hectares of Grassland with 2km of lake frontage Description This 18th century estate on 65 acres of grass land on the banks of Lough Ennell is a unique chance to own a piece of history. Located beside the Belvedere House estate and separated by the “Jealous Wall.” The house is three storeys over a basement and is in need of renovation, with the roof having been removed in 1957. The land comes with 2km approx. of lake frontage and a boathouse. History Tudenham Park House, originally called Rochfort House, is an 18th-century Palladian limestone country house located in Tudenham Park on the Rochfort Demesne near Belvedere House and Gardens beside Lough Ennell, County Westmeath, Ireland. The construction on the house began in 1717, and it was completed in 1742 for George Rochfort. It was purchased by Sir Francis Hopkins in 1836, and the name was subsequently changed from Rochfort to Tudenham Park. The house is known for being involved in an ordeal with Robert Rochfort’sbrother, George, which resulted in Robert constructing The Jealous Wall so he would not have to look at his brother’s grander house. During World War II, the house was used as a convalescent home for army officers. Special Features & Services – 18th Century Period House – 26.39 Hectares / 65.2 acres approx – 2km of Lake Frontage – Beside Belvedere House – Overlooking Lough Ennell – House In Need of Renovation – Exceptional Development Potential Joint Agents: Property Partners McDonnell Contact David McDonnell 086 2586403 Sherry Fitzgerald Davitt & Davitt contact Alan Bracken 087 9257346 

Features  

on c.65 acre Lakeside farmland overlooking Lough Ennell. 

Mantua House, Castlerea, Co Roscommon

Mantua House, Castlerea, Co Roscommon

Main staircase, Mantua, County Roscommon 1972, photograph: J and S Harsch, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 200. “(Grace, sub Bowen/LGI1912) A Palladian house attributed to Richard Castle and believed to have been built ca 1747 for Oliver Grace, who married the daughter and heiress of John Dowell, the former owner of the estate. Centre block of three storeys over basement and five bays; roundel between niches in centre of top storey, above pedimented niche betwwen two narrow windows, above fanlighted doorway also between two narrow windows. Rusticated window surrounds. Single-storey corridors joining centre block to two storey three bay wings, each with a roundel above a Venetian window; the wings also having rusticated window surrounds.

Not in national inventory

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

p. 127. “A three storey house built c. 1747 to the design of Richard Castle for Oliver Grace.

https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/homes-and-property/worth-the-investment-1.1010983

Worth the investment? 

Thu, Jun 1, 2006, 01:00  

Edel Morgan  

The address: Mantua, Elphin, Co Roscommon. 

The agent: Sherry FitzGerald Gallagher. 

The property: eight-bedroom 557sq m (6,000sq ft) house for €295,000 which represents a cost of €529 per sq m (€49 per sq ft). 

The look: extended country farmhouse, currently the Mantua Arts Centre. 

The landscape: located in the scenic countryside of Elphin, 14.5 miles from Boyle and 13.5 miles from Carrick-on-Shannon. Mantua national school is 100 yards away. 

The features: tree-lined property with its own brook and private well. It has a kitchen, utility room, well, four reception rooms, eight bedrooms and seven additional rooms used as gallery space. 

How much for an investor? The repayments on a 85 per cent loan at an interest rate of 3.6 per cent (APR 3.66 per cent) over 25 years would be €1,266 per month. With an interest-only loan at the same rate, the repayments would be €825 per month. 

How much for owner-occupier to buy? Over 35 years, at AIB’s discounted tracker rate of 3.1 per cent (3.6 per cent) the repayments on this mortgage would be €1,151 per month for the first year. 

At 92 per cent of the property price, at AIB’s discounted tracker rate of 3.1 per cent (Apr 3.6 per cent) the repayments over 35 years would be €1,058 per month for the first year. Repayments at the standard variable rate of 3.75 per cent (APR 3.81 per cent) would be €1,159 per month. 

Potential: it has previously been a barracks, nursing home and shop/post office and is currently an arts centre. Other possibilities include a guest-house or a family home for which it would need some refurbishment. 

Verdict: could be a golden opportunity for someone looking to get away from it all and start their own business in the country. 

 
http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=M 

Built in the mid 18th century and owned by the Grace family in the 18th and 19th centuries. Occupied by R. Underwood in 1778. In 1786 Wilson notes that it was the seat of the late Richard Underwood and of Captain Grace. The 1st edition Ordnance Survey map indicates that it had elaborate gardens with a fishpond and terrace. It was owned by Edward F. Bowen in 1906. Mantua is now a ruin.   

Mantua House, near Elphin. Oliver Grace married the Roscommon heiress Mary Dowell in the 1740’s and they built this large Palladian house at Mantua, to a design by celebrated architect Richard Castle. The house is now an ivy covered ruin. 

Summerhill House, Co Meath

Summerhill House, Co Meath

Summerhill, County Meath, etnrance front, photograph: Maurice Craig, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

“(Langford, Bt/EDB; Rowley, Langford, B/PB) The most dramatic of the Irish Palladian houses, probably by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce in collaboration with Richard Castle. Built 1731 for Hercules Rowley, MP, who inherited the estate from his mother, the daughter of Sir Hercules Langford. Crowning a hill, on the lower slopes of which stood the C17 house of the Langfords, the house consisted of two storey seven bay main block, with a central feature of four giant recessed Corinthian columns, joined by two storey curving wings to end pavilions with towers and shallow domes. The skyline was further diversified by two massive square towers rising boldly at either end of the main block; one of several features reminiscent of Vanbrugh, who was, incidentally, Pearce’s  first cousin once removed. The front was prolonged by walls of rusticated stonework ending in rusticated arches. All the stonework of the front was beautifully crisp and sharp. The garden front was less spectacular, but elegant, with two storeys of engaged columns as its central feature; it faced along a tree-lined gorge. Large two storey hall. Staircase hall with plasterwork on its walls. Fine rococo ceiling in drawing room, with busts in circular frames and putti in clouds. Small dining room ceiling also rococo, with putti in clouds in centre. Adjoining room with coved ceiling springing from Doric order; this room and the small dining room were eventually thrown together to make a larger dining room. The house was damaged by fire in nineteenth century; it was restored, but the original decoration of the hall was lost, as well as the original staircase. In 1879 and 1880, the Empress Elizabeth of Austria took Summerhill for the hunting season; it is said that her unquiet spirit found more happiness here than in any of the other numerous palaces and houses which she inhabited. After being burnt ca 1922, the house stood for 35 years or so as a ruin. Even in its ruinous state, Summer hill was one of the wonders of Ireland; in fact like Vanbrugh’s Seaton Delaval, it gained added drama from being a burnt out shell. The calcining of the central feature of the garden front looked like more fantastic rustication; the stonework of the side arches was more beautiful than ever mottled with red lichen; and as the entrance front came into sight, one first became aware that it was a ruin by noticing daylight showing through the front door. But ca 1957, the ruin was demolished; an act of destruction, which, at the time, passed almost unnoticed.” 

Summerhill, County Meath, courtesy Mark Bence-Jones.
Summerhill, County Meath, courtesy Mark Bence-Jones.

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

p. 115. “A superb house probably designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce in collaboration with Richard Castle who carried it out after Pearce’s death. The house was built in 1731 for Hercules Rowley M.P. The arched chimneystacks of the main block show the influence of John Vanburgh. The house was damaged by two fires in the 19C but some plasterwork by the Francini brothers survived. The house was burnt in 1922. Having stood as a magnificent ruin for many years, the stonework was sold and the ruin demolished c. 1962. Only the flanking pedimented arches and screen walls survive.”

The Landed Gentry and Aristocracy: County Meath. Volume 1. Art Kavanagh, 2005.

Langford of Summerhill (Barons Langford)

p. 126. The Rowleys settled in Ireland in the early part of the 17th century. Three brothers, John, Nathaniel and William were the first of that family to arrive on the island. It is most likely hey came to Ireland with Chichester the Lord Deputy. They probaby benefited from the distribution of lands in the Plantation of Ulster. They appear to have been granted some lands in Derry and Edward, John’s son, was based in Castle Roe near Londonderry where he was elected an MP.

John made a very good match with the daughter of an up and coming landlord, Sir Hugh Clotworthy, from neighbouring County Antrim [fn. Hugh’s son John was created Earl of Massareene by King Charles II). Sir John Rowley was John’s son and heir.

The Rowley connection with Meath began in 1671 when Sir John Rowley, MP, married Mary the only child and heir of Sir Hercules Langford of Summerhill and his wife Mary Upton.

…The only son, Hercules Rowley, married his cousin Frances Upton of Castle Upton, co Antrim, in 1705. It must have been he who inherited from Sir Hercules Langford as that man’s will was proved in 1683.

…[their son, Hercules] At the time of his death in 1794 his estate was considerable and was worth £18,000 p.a. The Langfords owned almost 10,000 acres in three different counties, 2,231 in Meath, 3,855 in Limerick and 3,659 in Dublin.

p. 127. He married his cousin the Hon. Elizabeth Ormsby Upton the daughter and heir of Clotworthy Upton who died the same year. Elizabeth also inherited the Ormsby lands in Limerick [Athlacca, Co Limerick]. In 1766 Elizabeth was created Baroness Summerhill and Viscountess Langford of Langford Lodge, Antrim with remainder to her male heirs. …

p. 128. After the death of Elizabeth the Baroness in 1791, her eldest son Hercules succeeded to become 2nd Viscount. Her husband survived three years longer and died in 1794.

Hercules (1737-96) was MP for Co Antrim until he took his seat in the House of Lords in 1791, the year his mother died. …He never married and was succeeded by his niece Frances. In the same year that her grandfather died (1794) she married her cousin, the Hon. Clotworthy Taylour.  Born in 1763 he was the 4th son of Lord Headfort. He was MP for Trim and also for Meath during the later decades of the century until his elevation to the Peerage as Baron Langford in 1800. He was high Sheriff of Meath in 1796. [p. 129] After his marriage to Frances in 1794 Clotworthy assumed the name and arms of Rowley. 

The second son Richard Thomas was a career Army officer….married and English lady, Charlotte Shipley..The newlyweds decided to honeymoon travelling in Egypt and the Sudan in 1835-36. From diaries and sketches recording their experience an article “A Honeymoon in Egypt and the Sudan” was written by Peter Rowley-Conwy c. 2002. …Charlotte was thought to be the first European woman ever to have visited Petra.

[a descendant of theirs became 9th Baron Langford].

p. 130. The eldest son of 1st Baron Hercules Langford the 2nd Baron (1795-1839), a DL for counties Meath and Dublin was married in 1818 to Louisa Rhodes….

Hercules the second son (1828-1904) settled on the Dublin property of Marlay Park, which thankfully has not entirely disappeared. He was a part-time Army officer, a JP and a DL for Co Meath and honorary Colonel in teh 5th Battalion of the Leinster Regiment. Like many wealthy men of his time he had a pad in London and was a member of the Kildare Club on St Stephen’s Green in Dublin and the Carlton in London. 

p. 133. Clotworthy (1825-1854) the eldest son of the 2nd Baron succeeded his father in 1839 when that man died at the relatively young age of 44. Clotworthy was only 14. In 1846 when he was just 21 years old, Clothworthy, now 3rd Baron Langford, married Louisa Conolly from Castletown, the daughter of Col Michael Edward Conolly who was MP for Kildare….They had three sons. The youngest boy was just one year old when tragedy struck the family. Louisa was drowned in a tragic accident.

p. 133. Hercules Edward (4th Baron) had to oversee the dismantling of the Langford empire in Ireland following the various land acts…Although on paper at least the family seemed to be very wealthy, the fact that they were compelled to rent the house [to Empress Sisi of Austria] meant that their annual outgoings were extremely high. It is probably that the repayment of borrowings was the biggest drain on family finances. 

p. 134. WWI took a heavy toll on the families of the gentry and aristocracy. Lord Langford lost his son which was all the more poignant since his other son was mentally unstable. [see Bence-Jones Twilight of the Ascendancy.] He now had no immediate heir as his brother was old and had no family but he had a nephew in New Zealand, Clotworthy Wellington. His brother Col William Chambre looked after the estate during the last years of the 4th Baron’s life.

…In 1923 Summerhill was burned by the IRA. 

p. 135. The 5th Baron died in 1922 ages only 28. The 5th Baron was succeeded by his uncle, William Chambre Rowley, 2nd son of the 3rd Baron. …

The 6th Baron sought compensation from the Free State Government for Summerhill and its contents. After three years of wrangling the Compensation Board finally agreed that a sum of £43,500 would be paid. This was less than one third of the estimated value of the house and contancts…He accepted and invested in gilt-edged stocks… moved to Middlesex…He consulted his New Zealand relatives about the possibility of rebuilding but none were overly anxious to live in Ireland….

Record ofProtected Structures 

Detached four-bay two-storey house, built 1878, with gabled 

central bay. Pitched slate roof with rendered chimneystacks 

and timber bargeboards. Roughcast rendered walls. Squareheaded 

window openings with label mouldings and stone 

sills. 

National inventory: 14333010 

https://archiseek.com/2012/summerhill-co-meath/

1731 – Summerhill, Co. Meath 

Architect: Edward Lovett Pearce / Richard Cassels 

Summerhill, County Meath, photograph courtesy Archiseek.
Summerhill, County Meath, photograph courtesy Archiseek.
Summerhill, County Meath, photograph courtesy Archiseek.

Summerhill House was a 100 roomed country house which was the ancestral seat of the Langford Rowley family. They owned large amounts of land in counties Meath, Westmeath, Cork, Derry, Antrim, and Dublin as well as in Devon and Cornwall. 

Designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce and completed by Richard Cassels in the Palladian style, it consisted of a centre block and two wings, built of limestone. Four semi-columns with Corinthian capitals ornamented the front; the main order was carried up the full height of the house. A broad flight of stairs led to the entrance of the mansion. There was a large and very lofty hall, which was similar to Leinster House in Dublin, also by Cassels. The hall contained plaques and oil portraits. To the right on entering was the library. The drawing room had a southern aspect, and contained several portraits of the Rowley family. The state dining room was detached from the main block and had beautifully covered ceilings. The grand stairs led to the bedrooms.  

Summerhill, County Meath, photograph courtesy Archiseek.

Destroyed by arson in the early 1920s and the ruins demolished by the 1970s. In 1922 Colonel Rowley, the 6th Baron Langford, sought compensation from the Free State Government and after three years of negotiation with the Compensation Board a sum of £43,500 was paid to the Colonel, approximately one third of the value of the house and contents destroyed in the fire. Nothing remains of the house. 

https://www.geni.com/projects/Historic-Buildings-of-County-Meath/29729

Summerhill House 100 room mansion, baroque palace, built in 1731, the ancestral seat of The Baronets, Barons, and Viscounts Langford – Summerhill Castle. Lynch’s Castle, (above), was already a residence in the immediate vicinity, the ruins of which survive to the present. Constructed for the The Hon. Hercules Langford Rowley, 2nd Baron Langford who in 1732 married his cousin Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Clotworthy Upton. In 1781 Hercules Langford Rowley built a large gothic mausoleum not far from the house, which fell into a ruinous state; some of its exterior walls survive, along with a handful of their curious arched niches. It originally contained a large memorial carved by Thomas Banks and commemorating the death of a beloved granddaughter, the Hon Mary Pakenham (Rowley’s daughter had married Lord Longford, another of whose children Catherine would in turn marry the Hon Arthur Wellesley, future Duke of Wellington). The Banks memorial was rescued from the mausoleum and moved into the main house at Summerhill. Summerhill House was damaged by fire on a number of occasions and then on 4 February 1922, it was set on fire by the Irish Republican Army and completely destroyed. In 1922 Colonel Rowley, the 6th Baron Langford, sought compensation from the Free State Government and after three years of negotiation with the Compensation Board a sum of £43,500 was paid to the Colonel, approximately one third of the value of the house and contents destroyed in the fire. Colonel Rowley invested the money in gilt-edged stocks and moved to Middlesex, England. Summerhill House stood as a ruin until it was totally demolished in 1970. Summerhill House was listed in “Forgotten Houses of Ireland”, as the most beautiful house in Ireland. 

https://meathhistoryhub.ie/houses-r-z/

Summerhill House was considered to be one of the most dramatic of the Irish palladian houses. Crowning a hill to the south of Summerhill village, the house consisted of a main block with curved wings ending in a tower and pavilion. Summerhill House was designed by Edward Lovett Pearce and completed by Richard Castle, two of the greatest architects working in Ireland in the eighteenth century. Two of the ceilings were attributed to the Lafranchini brothers. Summerhill House, described by Mulligan as a ‘great palatial mansion,’ was erected about 1730 for Hercules Rowley. Bence–Jones described Summerhill as “the most dramatic of the great Irish palladian houses”. The house was burned accidentally about 1800, remodelled in the nineteenth century and burned again in 1921. The ruins were demolished in the middle of the twentieth century and some of the stones from the ruins were used at Dalgan Park, Navan, to construct a loggia. To the north of the house site stands Lynch’s castle which was converted to a folly on the estate. Near the house stood the family mausoleum. 

Summerhill House  

A mile long avenue to the south of the house was planned. The architect asked to design the gate houses was also working on two gate lodges for a military barracks in India and the two plans became mixed up. Those intended for India arrived in Summerhill and were erected. The houses because of their unusual roofs became known as the “Balloon Houses”. The avenue was never completed as the last third of it stood on public road and so the gate houses were not even part of the demesne. 

Though Summerhill House has been demolished, the entrance and tree-lined avenue are reminders of the demesne. The curved wall and gate piers was clearly executed by skilled masons. The entrance acts as a focal point within the village of Summerhill. The village of Summerhill is based on a classical layout, associated with the development of the Summerhill House and demesne. The village consists of a long wide street with a narrow tree-lined green running down the centre. The village green, laid out c.1830 includes a medieval cross. 

The ancient seat of the Lynch family had been granted to Henry Jones, Bishop of Meath, for his services provided as Scoutmaster General to Cromwell’s Army. In 1661 Bishop Jones sold the lands to Sir Hercules Langford. The name was changed from Lynch’s Knock to Summerhill. 

Sir Hercules Langford died in 1683 leaving a son, Arthur, and a daughter, Mary. He died in 1716.  Arthur died without an heir and the estate went to his sister Mary who had married Sir John Rowley in 1671. Sir John Rowley was one of the biggest landowners in County Londonderry.  

Sir John was succeeded by his son, Hercules Rowley, MP for Co. Londonderry 1703-42 and heir to Sir Hercules Langford of Summerhill. Hercules Rowley commissioned Sir Edward Lovett Pearce in collaboration with Richard Castle to build one of the greatest and most dramatic of all the Irish Georgian houses in 1731. The house was probably erected in preparation for his marriage in 1732 to Elizabeth Upton. Hercules Rowley died in 1742 when he was succeeded by his son. 

Sir Hercules Langford Rowley was M.P. for Co. Londonderry 1743-1760 and for Co. Meath 1761-94.  He was a founder member of the Dublin Society in 1731, later the RDS. He was High Sheriff of Meath in 1738. In 1766 Hercules Langford Rowley was elevated to the peerage as Lord Summerhill. Hercules Langford Rowley was known as ‘the incorruptible representative for the County of Meath.’ He served in the Irish parliament for a period of fifty-one years. In 1787 he was appointed as one of the commissioners for the making of a canal from Drogheda to Trim. Johnston-Liik recorded that he died in 1794 having been an MP for over 50 years. In 1776 his wife was made Viscountess Langford and Baroness of Summerhill in her own right. Their eldest son, Hercules Rowley, became 2nd Viscount Langford in 1791 on the death of his mother. When he died unmarried about 1795 the estate went to his grand nephew, Hon Clothsworthy Taylour who was M.P. for Trim 1791-5 and for Co. Meath 1795-1800. He was created Baron Langford in 1800 having assumed the name Rowley in 1796 in order to inherit Summerhill. While he was M.P. for Trim the other M.P. for Trim was Arthur Wesley, the future Duke of Wellington. Clothsworthy voted against the Union in 1799 and for it in 1800 – the title might have had something to do with the change of mind, according to one commentator – ‘he had got his price.’ 

Baron Langford died in 1825 and his grandson, Clothworthy Wellington William Robert, became third Baron Langford. His son, Hercules Edward, became fourth baron in 1854 when he was just six years old. Educated at Eton he rose to the rank of Lieutenant Colonel in the army. 

He leased Summerhill to the Empress of Austria for hunting in 1879 and 1880 and was her guest for these periods. Elizabeth married the Emperor of Austria when she was sixteen years old. Travelling and her passion for horse riding became the principle activities by which she could escape the court. Arriving in February 1879 a room was converted to a private chapel, a gymnasium was set up and a direct telegraph line installed to Europe. She was loaned a horse and joined the local hunt. The stag they had been chasing jumped through a space into the Maynooth Seminary with the hounds, and the Empress, in pursuit. The President, Dr Walsh, came out to meet the group and on being introduced to the Empress of Austria lent her his coat or gown, invited them in for refreshment and she promised to return. The Empress managed to hunt nearly every day. In the early spring of 1880 the Empress went straight to Summerhill. On the first Sunday she went to Mass at the seminary in Maynooth and took a gift of a three foot high model of St George slaying the dragon. She was unaware that St George was the patron saint of England and when she was told of its significance she ordered shamrock covered vestments from Dublin. She spent some happy time hunting in Meath. The Empress of Austria was assassinated in 1897 by an anarchist in Geneva. 

In 1883 Lord Langford held 2231 acres in Meath, 3659 in Dublin and 3855 in Limerick giving a total estate of 9745 acres. 

Hercules Edward fourth baron oversaw the disposal of the Summerhill estate.  He died on 29th October 1919 and was interred in Agher cemetery. He lost his son and heir in the First World War and his second son was mentally unstable. His brother, William Chambre, took charge of the estate during his last years and after his death. William became 6th baron when his nephew died in 1922. 

In 1921 the house was burned to prevent it falling into the hands of the Black and Tans. Beryl Moore recorded that a large four side clock was the only thing left undamaged and it was donated to Kilmessan Church of Ireland church. On the 4th February 1921 Summerhill House was set on fire by the IRA and completely destroyed. Colonel and Mrs Rowley were away. The five servants who lived in the house were sitting together in the kitchen when they heard a knock on the back door. The English butler did not open the door and some minutes later a whistle was blown and the back door battered in. The servants escaped through a door into the basement and made there way out into the darkness. As they walked down the avenue the house was dowsed in petrol and the fire started in a number of places. 

In 1922 Colonel Rowley, the 6th Baron Langford, sought compensation from the Free State Government and after three years of negotiation with the Compensation Board a sum of £43,500 was paid to the Colonel, approximately one third of the value of the house and contents destroyed in the fire. Colonel Rowley invested the money in gilt-edged stocks and moved to Middlesex, England. 

In the early twenty first century the eighth holder of the title was constable of Rhuddlan castle and lord of Rhuddlan, Wales. The family reside at Bodrhyddan Hall. 

https://theirishaesthete.com/2013/04/01/my-name-is-ozymandias/

In February 1879 Elisabeth, Empress of Austria, popularly known then and since as Sisi, arrived in County Meath. Unhappily married, restless and inclined to melancholy, she found distraction in hunting and it was this sport which brought her to Ireland. Throughout her six-week stay in the country she followed the hounds almost daily with the Ward Union, the Meath and the Kildare Hunts, always accompanied by the most proficient horseman of his generation Captain William ‘Bay’ Middleton, widely rumoured to be her lover. Her own animals not proving suitable for the Irish terrain, local owners lent or sold the Empress their mounts although the Master of the Meath Hunt Captain Robert Fowler of Rahinstown was heard to expostulate ‘I’m not going to have any damned Empress buying my daughter’s horse.’ Nevertheless before her departure, Elisabeth presented a riding crop to Fowler: it was sold by Adam’s of Dublin in September 2010 for €28,000. 
During her 1879 visit and on a second occasion the following year the Empress stayed in an immense baroque palace that would not have looked out of place among the foothills outside Vienna. This was Summerhill, one of Ireland’s most remarkable houses the loss of which, as the Knight of Glin once wrote, ‘is probably the greatest tragedy in the history of Irish domestic architecture.’ 

Summerhill was constructed for the Hon. Hercules Langford Rowley who in 1732 married his cousin Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Clotworthy Upton. It is generally agreed that work on the house began around this date, perhaps to commemorate the union. Also, although impossible to prove absolutely, the most widespread supposition is that Summerhill’s architect was Sir Edward Lovett Pearce. There are echoes in its design of Vanbrugh in whose office Pearce is thought to have trained. Indeed writing of the building in 1752 the Anglican clergyman and future Bishop of Meath Richard Pococke specifically described it as ‘a commanding Eminence, the house is like a Grand Palace, but in the Vanbrugh Style.’ 
There was already a residence in the immediate vicinity, the ruins of which survive to the present. Known as Lynch’s Castle, it is a late 16th century tower house probably occupied up to the time of Summerhill’s construction. The position selected for Rowley’s new house could scarcely have been better – the 19th century English architect C.R. Cockerell thought ‘few sites more magnificently chosen – the close of a long incline so that the gradual approach along a tree-lined avenue created the impression of impending drama. Finally one reached the entrance front, a massive two-storey, seven-bay block the central feature of which were four towering Corinthian columns, the whole executed in crisply cut limestone. On either side two-storey quadrants swept away from the house towards equally vast pavilions topped by towers and shallow domes. 

We must imagine the original interiors of Summerhill to have been as superb as its exterior since little record of them survive. The house was seriously damaged by fire in the early 19th century and thereafter successive generations of the Rowley owners – it had passed to a branch of the Taylours of Headfort, the first of whom was elevated to the peerage as Baron Langford in 1800 after voting in favour of the Act of Union – never seem to have had sufficient funds to oversee a comprehensive refurbishment. In fact in 1851 the estate was offered for sale. However, some work was done on the house, including a new main staircase, in the 1870s, not long before Summerhill was taken by the Empress Elisabeth. A handful of photographs, reproduced in the invaluable Irish Georgian Society Records of 1913 and shown above give us an idea of the house’s decoration, not least that of the double-height entrance hall with its then-compulsory potted palms (just as the wall above the stairs carries an equally inevitable reproduction of Raphael’s Sistine Madonna). We know the drawing room and small dining room both contained elaborate plasterwork and there were clearly some splendid chimneypieces. The IGS Records also lists many significant paintings in the main rooms. 
Before the end of the 19th century the large gothic mausoleum likewise built by Hercules Langford Rowley in 1781 not far from the house had fallen into a ruinous state; some of its exterior walls survive, along with a handful of their curious arched niches. Originally it contained a large memorial carved by Thomas Banks and commemorating the death of a beloved granddaughter, the Hon Mary Pakenham (Rowley’s daughter had married Lord Longford, another of whose children Catherine would in turn marry the Hon Arthur Wellesley, future Duke of Wellington). The Banks memorial was rescued from the mausoleum and moved into the main house at Summerhill, there seemingly safe from any damage. 

On the night of 4th February 1922 the Rowleys were away but five staff remained in the house. When a knock came on the back door, the butler refused to open it but shortly afterwards he heard the door being knocked down. He and the others escaped through an exit in the basement and walked towards the farm; turning around, they saw flames rapidly spreading through the house which by morning was left a smoking shell. 
It has never been ascertained who was responsible for the burning of Summerhill or why it was attacked in this way, but most likely as elsewhere during the same period it was perceived as representing the old regime and therefore a target for republicans. Afterwards, like other house owners whose property had suffered a similar fate, the Rowleys applied to the new Free State government for compensation, asking for £100,000 to rebuild Summerhill; initially they were offered £65,000 but by April 1923 this had been cut to £16,775 with the condition that at least £12,000 of the sum had to be spent on building some kind of residence on the site, otherwise only £2,000 would be given. 
The compensation figure was later raised to £27,500 with no obligation to build but by then the Rowleys left the country (one member of the family had already declared ‘Nothing would induce me to live in Ireland if I was paid to do so…’). For the next thirty-five years Summerhill stood an empty shell. The late Mark Bence-Jones who saw the house during this period later wrote, ‘Even in its ruinous state, Summerhill was one of the wonders of Ireland; in fact like Vanbrugh’s Seaton Delaval, it gained added drama from being a burnt-out shell. The calcining of the central feature of the garden front looked like more fantastic rustication; the stonework of the side arches was more beautiful than ever mottled with red lichen; and as the entrance front came into sight, one first became aware that it was a ruin by noticing daylight showing through the front door.’ In 1947 Maurice Craig visited the site. His wonderfully atmospheric photographs from that time corroborate Bence-Jones’ description. 

Seaton Delaval still stands, but Summerhill is no more. In 1957 the house was demolished, apparently without any objection. Today the site is occupied by a bungalow of the most diminutive proportions surrounded by evergreens which thereby obscure the view which made this spot so special. The difference in scale and style between the original house and its replacement would be hilarious was the loss of Summerhill not so tragic. The village at its former entrance gates gives visitors no indication that close by stood one of Ireland’s greatest architectural beauties. Indeed one suspects local residents themselves are mostly unaware of what they have lost since there is scant evidence of concern for the welfare of other old buildings in the vicinity. 
If Summerhill still stood it could be a significant tourist attraction, bringing visitors to this part of the country, not least from Austria and surrounding countries where the Empress Elisabeth enjoys near-cult status. In other words, what went with the house was not just an important piece of Ireland’s architectural heritage but also the opportunity for local employment and income. It is typical, if perhaps the worst instance, of Ireland’s failure to appreciate the potential of her historic buildings, as well as their inherent aesthetic qualities. I think it was Bence-Jones who once called Summerhill Ireland’s Versailles but a more apt comparison would be with Marly, another vanished treasure now known only through a handful of images. As Shelley wrote in 1818, 
‘”Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!” 
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay 
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare…’ 

https://theirishaesthete.com/2016/04/13/an-echo-of-lost-grandeur/

Now providing access to Dolly’s Grove, County Meath, this limestone triumphal arch seemingly once stood at the entrance to Summerhill in the same county. Among Ireland’s very finest country houses Summerhill was built in the 1730s but is no more, having been burnt in February 1922, after which its dramatic shell survived another thirty-five years before being demolished (for more on the house, see My Name is Ozymandias, April 1st 2013). Summerhill’s design has traditionally been attributed to Sir Edward Lovett Pearce and some of his stylistic tics, such as blind niches and oculi, can be seen here in the Dolly’s Grove arch suggesting the architect was responsible for this piece of work also.