2. Clover Hill Gate Lodge, Cloverhill, Belturbet, Cavan
3. Farnham Estate, Farnham Estate, Cavan – hotel
4. Killinagh House, McNean Court, Blacklion, County Cavan – whole house rental and lodge
5. Lismore House, Co Cavan – was a ruin. Place to stay: Peacock House on the demesne
6. Olde Post Inn, Cloverhill, County Cavan
Whole house rental County Cavan:
1. Killinagh House, McNean Court, Blacklion, County Cavan – whole house rental
3. Virginia Park Lodge, Co Cavan – weddings
1. Cabra Castle, Kingscourt, Co. Cavan – section 482, hotel
This is a hotel but unlike some heritage house or castle hotels, they do allow visitors to view the building: the website states that they are open between 11am to 4pm for visitors for viewing all year round, except at Christmastime.
“This old stone cottage built between 1830 -1850 is tucked away at the archway entrance to the Cloverhill Estate. This cottage is surrounded by gardens and woodland. The magic of this cottage is undeniable. Originally built for the Gate Keeper this cottage reflects heritage with rustic simplicity. Though some features and fittings have been replaced, the survival of historic features, including the label mouldings and timber bargeboards add to its character and charm.“
Cloverhill House is now a ruin. Mark Bence-Jones tells us the house was built 1799-1804 for James Saunderson (1763-1842) to the design of Francis Johnston. [1] Robert O’Byrne adds that it was in fact extended in 1799, but built originally in 1758 (thus was built for James’s father Alexander, who married Lucy Madden of the Hilton Park House Madden family, another Section 482 property. A date stone gives us the date of 1758.) [2] Mark Bence-Jones tells us that the house passed by inheritance to the Purdons, and was sold by Major J.N. Purdon ca 1958. The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage tells us that the Sanderson family were instrumental in the development of Cloverhill village with the building of the Church of Ireland church and estate workers’ houses.
Cloverhill Gate Lodge, County Cavan, photograph courtesy airbnb website.
The house is featured in Tarquin Blake’s Abandoned Mansions of Ireland, Collins Press, Cork, 2010.
From James Sanderson (1763-1842) the property passed down through the female line since the son, also named James, had no heirs. It passed first to Mary Anne, who was unmarried, and then to her sister’s son, Samuel Sanderson Winter (1834-1912), whose parents were Lucy Sanderson and Samuel Winter (1796-1867) of Agher, County Meath. Samuel Sanderson Winter married Ann, daughter of John Armytage Nicholson of Balrath Bury, County Meath (we came across this family before as Enniscoe in County Mayo was inherited by Jack Nicholson, of the Balrath Bury family). Samuel Sanderson Winter’s son died young so Cloverhill passed to the son of his sister, Elizabeth Ann Winter, who married George Nugent Purdon (1819-1910). This is how the house passed to the Purdon family.
The house passed to their son, John James Purdon, who died childless so it passed to his nephew, John Nugent Purdon, son of Charles Sanderson Purdon. John Nugent Purdon sold Cloverhill demesne ca 1958 to Mr Thomas Mee. [3]
Farnham Estate, County Cavan, photograph courtesy of hotel Instagram page.Farnham House, photograph from National Library of Ireland, flickr constant commons.
David Hicks tells us in his Irish Country Houses, A Chronicle of Change that the wing of Farnham House that survives today is the truncated section of a much larger mansion. Dry rot led to demolition of a substantial section of the Maxwell ancestral home. The family’s connection was severed in 2001.
Farnham Estate, County Cavan, photograph courtesy of hotel Instagram page.
The estate was granted by King James I to the Waldron family in 1613. Henry Waldron named the estate after his wife’s family. The Waldrons built a castle here in 1620.
The website gives us a history of the estate:
“1664- The Waldrons of Dromellan Castle (early name of Farnham House) were forced to sell the estate to settle gambling debts. Bought by Bishop Robert Maxwell, thus beginning the Maxwell family connection that was to continue for more than 330 years (family motto is Je suis prêt – I am ready’).”
Farnham Estate drawing room, County Cavan, photograph courtesy of hotel Instagram page.
Mark Bence-Jones adds in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988, p. 123):
“…A few years later the estate was sold to Robert Maxwell [1598-1672], Bishop of Kilmore, whose cathedral was nearby. The Bishop’s son, John Maxwell, built a new house here ca 1700, which was improved ca 1780 by Barry Maxwell, 3rd Lord Farnham and first Earl of Farnham of 2nd creation, who added a library designed by James Wyatt.“
Timothy William Ferres tells us of the Maxwell lineage:
John Maxwell of Farnham, High Sheriff of County Cavan, 1674, who dsp 1713, was succeeded by his nephew, The Reverend Doctor Robert Maxwell; who dsp 1737 and was succeeded by his cousin, John Maxwell (1687-1759), High Sheriff of County Cavan, 1757, MP for County Cavan 1727-56, who was elevated to the peerage, in 1756, in the dignity of Baron Farnham, of Farnham, County Cavan.
In 1719 he married Judith, heiress of James Barry (1660-1725) of Newtownbarry, County Wexford. Their son Robert succeeded as 2nd Baron Maxwell, and he was created Viscount in 1760 and 1st Earl of Farnham in 1763. Robert married Henrietta Cantillon, the widow of William Matthias Stafford-Howard, 3rd Earl of Stafford.
Henrietta Diana née Cantillon (1728–1761), Dowager Countess of Stafford by Allan Ramsay courtesy of Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum;http://www.artuk.org/artworks/henrietta-diana-17281761-dowager-countess-of-stafford-85788She married, first, William Matthias Stafford-Howard, 3rd Earl of Stafford, and after his death, Robert Maxwell, 2nd Baron and 1st Earl of Farnham.
See also the wonderful book by Melanie Hayes, The Best Address in Town: Henrietta Street, Dublin and its First Residents 1720-80, published by Four Courts Press, Dublin 8, 2020. She has a chapter on John Maxwell, (1687-1759) 1st Baron Farnham.
The Farnham Estate website tells us that Robert was a keen agriculturalist and agent of improvement who put the most technologically and scientifically advanced agricultural methods into action. The website tells us:
“In1777, noted agricultural scientist and topographer Arthur Young said of Farnham; “…upon the whole Farnham is one of the finest places that I have ever seen in Ireland; the water wood and hill are all in great stile and abound in a variety of capabilities. The woodland plantations of Derrygid coupled with the lakes of Farnham and Derrygid were noted by Young who described them as being ‘uncommonly beautiful; extensive and have a shore extremely varied.” In the 1770’s, approximately 100 labourers were employed in maintaining the landscape at Farnham.“
Robert 1st Earl and Henrietta’s daughter Henrietta married Denis Daly (1747-1791) of Dunsandle, County Galway.
Denis Daly (1747-1791) of Dunsandle, County Galway, attributed to Joshua Reynolds, courtesy of Christies 2012 Mount Congreve the London Sale.
The first Earl’s son John predeceased him and didn’t marry, so the 1st Earl’s brother Barry succeeded him. Barry Maxwell was a barrister and MP for County Cavan and later for Armagh city. When his mother Judith née Barry died in 1771 he must have inherited as he changed his name to Barry Barry. Then when his elder brother Robert Maxwell, 1st and last Earl of Farnham, died in 1779, he inherited and his name was changed back to Barry Maxwell, and he succeeded as the 3rd Baron Farnham, of Farnham, Co. Cavan. He was created 1st Earl of Farnham, Co. Cavan (Ireland, of the 2nd creation) on 22 June 1785.
Portrait of Barry Maxwell (1723-1800) 1st Earl Farnham by George Romney courtesy of www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-4507942He was the son of John Maxwell, 1st Baron Farnhamand Judith Barry.
When Robert 1st Earl’s first wife Henrietta died, he married secondly, in 1771, Sarah, only daughter of Pole Cosby, of Stradbally Hall, Queen’s County, and sister of Lord Sydney, but they had no further children. Sarah had been previously married to Arthur Upton (d. 1763) of Castle Upton, County Antrim. After her second marriage she was known as the Countess of Farnham.
The Countess of Farnham, probably Sarah née Cosby, wife of Robert Maxwell, 1st and last Earl of Farnham(of the first creation), painted by Hugh Douglas Hamilton, courtesy of Sothebys 2001.
The first Earl had another brother Most Reverend HenryMaxwell (d. 1798), who became Bishop of Dromore and Bishop of Meath.
Right Reverend Henry Maxwell (d. 1798) Bishop of Meath, Irish school courtesy of National Trust Castle Ward
Reverend HenryMaxwell married Margaret Foster, daughter of Rt. Hon. Anthony Foster Chief Baron of the Irish Exchequer between 1766 and 1777, who lived in Collon in County Meath.
Their sons became respectively John Maxwell Barry Maxwell (1767-1838) 5th Baron Farnham and Reverend Henry Maxwell (d. 1838) 6th Baron Farnham, and the Baronetcy continued to their descendants. The Earldom was recreated for the elder brother Barry, 3rd Baron (1723-1800), who obtained a viscountcy and earldom, in 1780, as Viscount Farnham, and, in 1785, Earl of Farnham (2nd creation).
The dining room at Farnham House. Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.With portrait ofRight Reverend Henry Maxwell (d. 1798) Bishop of Meath.
The three brothers, Robert 1st Earl, Barry 1st Earl of second creation and Reverend Henry had a sister, Anne, who married Owen Wynn (1723-1789) of Hazelwood, County Sligo.
Barry Maxwell, 1st Earl of Farnham served as MP and Privy Counsellor. He married first Margaret King of Drewstown, County Meath, who gave birth to their son and heir John James Maxwell (1759-1823) later 2nd Earl of Farnham. Barry married secondly Grace, daughter of Arthur Burdett. His son did not have children and the Earldom and Viscountcy became extinct on his death.
Photograph of Farnham House from Country Life, A Chinese Chippendale chair in the hall at Farnham House. Pub Orig CL 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.
The website tells us of the building of Farham:
“In 1795, Earl of Farnham Barry [Barry Maxwell (1723-1800)] asked James Wyatt, one of the most fashionable architects of that time, to draw designs for three ceilings. Although there is no evidence of them being installed at Farnham, these plans are now housed in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Some work was undertaken by Wyatt though around the 1795 timeframe and to this day, a library case where his design has been noted stands inserted in an alcove on the staircase landing.
“In the early 1800s, a coat of arms was incorporated onto the façade of the house. Comprised of the arms of the Maxwell and Barry family, they are supported by two bucks, with a buck’s head on top of the Baron’s coronet as the crest.
Barry’s son James John Barry 2nd Earl engaged Francis Johnston to build. The website tells us:
“In 1802 Francis Johnston, architect for Dublin’s famous GPO building, was engaged to complete an extension of the existing house to provide an edifice to the southwest garden front.This is the latter day surviving Farnham House, which is now incorporated as the centrepiece of the hotel complex design.“
Mark Bence-Jones describes the house as built by Francis Johnston:
“Johnston produced a house consisting of two somewhat conservative three storey ranges at right angles to one another; one of them, which incorporated part of the earlier house, including Wyatt’s library, having a front of eight bays, with a die over a two bay breakfront, and a single-storey Doric portico; the other having a front of nine bays with a three bay pedimented breakfront; prolonged by one bay in the end of the adjoining range. The interior was spacious but restrained, the principal rooms having simple ovolo or dentil cornices. Elliptical staircase hall, with simple geometrical design in the ceiling; stone stair with elegant metal balustrade.“
The staircase at Farnham House designed by Francis Johnston.Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.Farnham Estate, County Cavan, photograph courtesy hotel.
The website continues: “In the depths of the earth beneath Farnham lies a myriad of passages. These passages were constructed to allow food, supplies and heating fuels to be brought into the mansion house by the servants. Such underground passages kept the servants out of sight from Lords and Ladies Farnham and their guests and no doubt were used by the servants to enjoy some activities of their own, which they would not have wanted Lord and Lady Farnham to witness!“
When James John died childless in 1823, a cousin, John Maxwell Barry Maxwell (1767-1838), son of Rt. Rev. Henry Maxwell, became 5th Baron Farnham.
The website tells us: “In 1823, a new system of management for the Farnham estate was introduced, employing persons as inspectors of districts, buildings, bog and land and a moral agent! The main duties of the moral agent were to encourage the tenantry to adhere to the main principles contained in Lord Farnham’s address to them. These included: keeping of the Sabbath, responsibility towards the education of their children, imbuing within their children a strict moral sense and to ensure that they abstained from all evil habits, including cursing and the distillation or consumption of alcohol.“
The 5th Baron Farnham died childless in 1838, so his brother Reverend Henry Maxwell became the 6th Baron Farnham. He married Anne Butler, daughter of the 3nd Earl of Carrick. Their son Henry became the 7th Baron Farnham (1799-1868). Their daughter Sarah Juliana married Alexander Saunderson of Castle Saunderson. The other sons Somerset and James became 8th and 9th Baron and then the son of their brother Richard Thomas Maxwell, Somerset Henry Maxwell, became the 10th Baron.
Mark Bence-Jones tells us: “In 1839, 7th Lord Farnham (a distinguished scholar and genealogist who, with his wife, was burnt to death 1868 when the Irish mail train caught fire at Abergele, North Wales), enlarged the house by building new offices in the re-entrant between the two ranges. Also probably at this time the main rooms were changed around; the library becoming the dining room, and losing any Wyatt decoration it might have had; Wyatt’s bookcases being moved to the former drawing room.“
The drawing room at Farnham House. The portrait to the right is of thr Rt Hon John, 5th Baron Farnham by Sir Thomas Lawrence.Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.Photograph of Farnham House from Country Life, Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.Farnham Estate, County Cavan, photograph courtesy Bennett Contruction website.
Somerset Henry Maxwell, 10th Baron, married Florence Jane Taylour, daughter of Thomas Taylour, 3rd Marquess of Headfort. Their son, Arthur Kenlis Maxwell (1879-1957), became 11th Baron in 1900.
The website continues the timeline:
“1911- Records mention a staff of 11: butler, cook, governess, nursery maid, nurse, footman, ladies’ maid and several house and kitchen maids. Some 3,000 of Farnham’s then 24,000 statute acres were sold off.
“1914-1918- Lord Farnham rejoined the military; he was captured, imprisoned and released after the Armistice. His political efforts failed to prevent the exclusion of three counties from the jurisdiction of Northern Ireland.
“1921-1931- Lord and Lady Farnham left for England. They emptied the house of its furniture, due to widespread burning and looting of country houses. The 1923 Land Act would ultimately end landlordism in Ireland: by 1931, Lord Farnham retained only his demesne lands at Farnham, which he operated in a more intensive fashion in order to increase much-needed revenue.“
Arthur Kenlis Maxwell managed to escape from a prisoner of war camp during the first world war. He and his family returned to Farnham estate in 1926 and began to renovate the house. His son and heir died in the second world war aged just 37, and the title passed to his grandson, Barry Owen Somerset Maxwell. Barry Owen’s mother died in a plane crash when he was just 21.
“1950- Economic decline had by now affected the demesne. A Farnham Tintorreto ’Christ Washing the Feet of His Disciples’ was sold in 1955; the Canadian National Art Gallery in Ontario paid some $100,000. 1956- Barry Owen Somerset Maxwell, 12th Baron Farnham became the last member of the Maxwell family to reside at Farnham House.
“In 1961, dry rot was discovered within the Farnham house and in an attempt to alleviate it, the oldest part of the house looking across the parkland, and the additions made to the house in 1839, were demolished.”
Mark Bence-Jones describes the changes: “Ca 1960, the present Lord Farnham, finding the house to be badly infested with dryrot, demolished the range where the entrance had formerly been situated, as well as the additions of 1839; and remodelled the surviving Johnston range to form a house in itself; being assisted in the work by Mr Philip Cullivan. The pedimented front is still the garden front, as it was formerly; the back of the range being now the entrance front, with the portico re-erected at one end of it; so that the entrance is directly into the staircase hall. The surviving range contains Johnston’s dining room, which has been the drawing room since 19C rearrangement; as well as the boudoir and the former study, now the dining room. One of Wyatt’s bookcases is now in the alcove of the former staircase window. The demesne of Farnham has long been famous for its beauty; a landscape of woods, distant mountain views and lakes, which are part of the great network of loughs and islands stretching southwards from Upper Lough Erne.“
The entrance front of Farnham House, as remodelled in 1961. In an attempt to alleviate dry rot, the oldest part of the house was demolished. Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.The portico that was on the original entrance front was moved to the rear of the garden front to form a new entrance when part of the house was demolished in 1942. It is now incorporated into the interior of Farnham Estate hotel.Photograph courtesy hotel.Photograph of Farnham House from Country Life, Pub Orig Country Life 02/01/2003, volume CXCVII. Photographer Paul Barker.
The website continues:
“1995 – 2001 – Lord Farnham abandoned farming and leased the agricultural lands to local farmers. One of his last acts on the Farnham demesne was the planting of a group of trees to mark the New Millennium. Lord Farnham died in March 2001 and his wife, Diana, Baroness Farnham now resides in England where she is a current Lady in Waiting to Queen Elizabeth II. Farnham House estate was sold to a local entrepreneur who developed it into a hotel resort.
“Present Day – The resort is owned by Mr. Thomas Röggla and along with his team at the resort, every effort is made to provide genuine hospitality in this new phase in the evolution of this magnificent location. Thus, the indelible-mark made by the Maxwell family, as far back as 1664 on the landscape of Farnham Estate will continue to be appreciated by future generations.”
The multimillion refurbishment and extension was headed by architect Des Mahon of Gilroy McMahon, who had previously worked on the National Museum at Collins Barracks and the Hugh Lane Gallery extension.
4. Killinagh House, McNean Court, Blacklion, County Cavan – whole house rental and a lodge
Killinagh House, County Cavan, built 1827, a former Glebe House, three-bay two-storey over basement.Photograph courtesy of Killinagh House facebook page.
“Killinagh Lodge is situated within 1 mile from the village of Blacklion in the picturesque grounds of Killinagh House, a former Church of Ireland manse dating back to Georgian times.
“Set in the courtyard, Killinagh Lodge offers luxurious, purpose built, self catering accommodation on the shores of Lough MacNean. Boasting its own private access to the Lough, Killinagh Lodge is set in one of the most beautiful and tranquil locations where you can enjoy the grounds of the wider Estate.“
The house website tells us:
“Killinagh House is a unique, Georgian Country House, situated in the heart of the Marble Arch Global Geo Park, in west County Cavan. The perfect getaway for peace and relaxation. We cater for customer comforts, special requests and reasonable prices.
“The perfect retreat to unwind and recharge the batteries. Peaceful and quiet with relaxed garden views. Killinagh House is at the heart of Marble Arch Global Geo Park, ideally located for outdoor pursuits, including golf, fishing and nature walks.”
Killinagh House, County Cavan,Photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.
The National Inventory further describes it: “Roughcast rendered lime-washed walls with string course above basement. Three-over-six timber sash windows to first floor and six-over-six to ground floor all with stone sills and timber internal window shutters. Front door set in smooth-rendered segmental-arched recess, having four-panelled door in classical surround of slender Doric pilasters, metope frieze and cobweb fanlight above. Basement well to east, north and west side. Stone steps leading to entrance with recent metal railings.“
5. Lismore House, Co Cavan – was a ruin. Place to stay: Peacock House on the demesne
Lismore House, Co Cavan – restored house (believed to have been the agent’s house) and a place to stay, Peacock House, available on airbnb. Of the original Lismore House, attributed to Edward Lovett Pearce (1699-1733), only the two wings and tower survive.
The Peacock House, workers cottage on Lismore Desmese, County Cavan. Photograph courtesy airbnb website.
The airbnb entry tells us of The Peacock House: “The Peacock House is located within the Lismore Demesne. It was once the dairy and workers cottage. From the 1980s onwards it was used to house peacocks, giving the cottage its name. After being left dormant for 80 years it was lovingly restored.” It has two bedrooms.
Lismore House, County Cavan, Photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.The Inventory tells us it is: “Symmetrical pair of detached six-bay two-storey flanking wings to former Lismore House, built c.1730, having advanced outermost end bays to each block, single-bay two-stage flanking tower formerly attached to south corner of house having single-bay extension to north…Rubble stone walls having red brick quoins, eaves course, and string course. Red brick surrounds to oculi at first floor over round-headed ground-floor windows and central segmental-headed door.“
It was probably built for Thomas Nesbitt, (c. 1672-1750), of Grangemore, County Westmeath, High Sheriff of County Cavan, 1720, MP for Cavan Borough, 1715-50 [4].
The house was restored by Richard and Sonya Beer. [5]
Mark Bence-Jones writes about Lismore House in A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988), p. 186:
“Originally the seat of the Nesbitts, passed to the Burrowes through the marriage of Mary [Mary Anne, born 1826, daughter of John Nesbitt and Elizabeth Tatam] Nesbitt to James Burrowes [1820-1860, of Stradone House, County Cavan] in 1854; Lismore passed to the Lucas-Clements family through the marriage of Miss Rosamund Burrowes to the late Major Shuckburgh Lucas-Clements in 1922.“
Lismore House, County Cavan, Photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage: “Blind lunette and oculus to gables facing former house.”
Mary Anne and James had a son, Thomas Cosby Burrowes (1856-1925). He married in 1885 Anna Frances, daughter of Richard Thomas Maxwell, and grand-daughter of the sixth Baron Farnham (of Farnham Estate), by whom he has issue two daughters. One daughter, Rosamund Charlotte Cosby Burrowes, of Lismore, married, in 1922, Major Shuckburgh Upton Lucas-Clements in 1922. [6] The main house was vacated c.1870 when the family relocated to Lismore Lodge, formerly the agent’s house.
Mark Bence-Jones continues: “Having stood empty for many years, the house fell into ruin and was demolished ca 1952, with the exception of the “tower” wings. The office wings are now used as farm buildings, and the family now live in the former agent’s house, an early house with a Victorian wing and other additions.”
Lismore House, County Cavan, Photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage: “Tower having mansard slate roof, rubble stone walls with cut-stone platbands, cut-stone surrounds to window openings, round-headed openings with raised keystone and impost blocks to former ground floor, and segmental-headed openings to former basement level.”
6. Olde Post Inn, Cloverhill, County Cavan– accommodation, restaurant and wedding venue
The website tells us: “The Olde Post inn was built in the 1800s. It opened as a post office in 1884, grocery & residence. It had a number of owners and was for some time derelict before it was renovated into a restaurant with accommodation in early 1990s. It has been run as a restaurant since and was taken over by Gearoid & Tara Lynch in November 2002. Since then it has gone under further refurbishment and been extended to include two Hampton Conservatories.“
The Old Post Inn, County Cavan, photograph courtesy of website.
Virginia Park Lodge, County Cavan, photograph courtesy website.
This was formerly the hunting lodge of the Taylours, Marquess Headfort, who also owned Headfort House in County Meath. It was built for the First Earl of Bective, Thomas Taylour (1724-1795), son of Thomas Taylor 2nd Baronet Taylor, of Kells, County Meath, who served as MP for Kells and as a Privy Counsellor in Ireland. His mother was Sarah Graham from Platten, County Meath. Thomas the 1st Earl of Bective also served as Privy Counsellor. He married Jane Rowley, from Summerhill, County Meath.
Thomas Taylour (1724-1795) 1st Earl of Bective wearing the star and sash of the Order of St. Patrick by Gilbert Stuart and studio, courtesy of Sotheby’s. He built Virginia Park Lodge.Headfort, County Meath, photograph courtesy of Irish Georgian Society.
It was their one of their younger sons, Reverend Henry Edward Taylour (1768-1852), who lived at Ardgillan Castle in Dublin. Their son Thomas the second earl became the 1st Marquess of Headfort, and added to Virginia Park Lodge and imported plants to create the parkland surrounding the Lodge.
The Marquess of Headfort married Mary Quin, from Quinsborough, County Clare. The Lodge passed through the family to the 4th Marquess, Geoffrey Thomas Taylour, son of the second wife of the 3rd Marquess. He married a music hall star, Rosie Boote, which scandalised society, but they moved to the Lodge and lived happily and had many children.
The Lodge was bought by chef Richard Corrigan in 2014, and he has undertaken much work to restore it to its former glory.
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[1] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
My friend Gary and I went on a tour of Howth Castle in Dublin during Heritage Week in 2025. You can arrange a tour if you contact the castle in advance, see the website https://howthcastle.ie
I envy historian Daniel, our tour guide, as he lives in the castle! Mark Bence-Jones describes the castle as a massive medieval keep, with corner towers crenellated in the Irish crow-step fashion, to which additions have been made through the centuries. [1]
Howth Castle, courtesy of Howth Castle instagram.In the middle of the photograph is the old tower house.Howth Castle, County Dublin, after Francis Wheatley, English, 1747-1801.
Timothy William Ferres tells us that the current building is not the original Howth Castle, which was on the high slopes by the village and the sea. [2]
Until recently, the castle was owned by the Gaisford-St. Lawrence family. Irish investment group Tetrarch who purchased the property in 2019 plan to build a hotel on the grounds. It had been owned by the same family, originally the St. Lawrences, ever since it was built over eight hundred years ago. Over the years, wings, turrets and towers were added, involving architects such as Francis Bindon (the Knight of Glin suggests he may have been responsible for some work around 1738), Richard Morrison (the Gothic gateway, and stables, around 1810), Francis Johnson (proposed works for the 3rd Earl of Howth), and Edward Lutyens (for Julian Gaisford-St. Lawrence).
Timothy William Ferres tells us that the St. Lawrence family was originally the Tristram family. Sir Almeric Tristram took the name St. Lawrence after praying to the saint before a battle which took place on St. Lawrence’s Day near Clontarf in Dublin. Sir Almeric landed in Howth in 1177. After the battle he was rewarded for his valour in the conflict with the lands and barony of Howth. [see 2]
In an article in the Irish Times on Saturday August 14th 2021, Elizabeth Birthistle tells us that a sword that is said to have featured in the St. Lawrence’s Day battle is to be auctioned. A “more sober assessment” of the Great Sword of Howth, she tells us, dates it to the late 15th century. Perhaps, she suggests, Nicholas St. Lawrence 3rd Baron of Howth used it in 1504 at the Battle of Knockdoe. The sword is so heavy that it must be held with two hands. It is first recorded in an inventory of 1748, and is described and illustrated in Joseph C Walker’s An Historical Essay on the Dress of the Ancient and Modern Irish. [3]
Almeric went on to fight in Ulster and then Connaught. In Connaught, he was killed by the O’Conor head of the province, along with his thirty knights and two hundred infantry. He left three sons by his wife, a sister of John de Courcy, Earl of Ulster. The eldest son, Nicholas Fitz Almeric, relinquished his father’s Ulster conquests to religious houses, and settled in Howth. [see 2]
The first construction on the site would have been of wood.
The family coat of arms depicts a mermaid and a sea lion. The mermaid is often pictured holding a mirror. There is a coat of arms on the wall of the front of the castle which was probably moved from an older part of a castle. The Howth Castle website tells us:
“A mermaid is one of the supporters of the St. Lawrence family coat of arms, alongside a sea lion. The mermaid is often portrayed holding a small glass mirror. According to legend, the mermaid was once Dame Geraldine O’Byrne, daughter of The O’Byrne of Wicklow. She fell victim to dark magic at Howth Castle and was transformed into a mermaid. One item she left behind in her bedroom was a small glass mirror. The tower she slept in was from then always known as the ‘Mermaid’s Tower’. “
An article in the Irish Times tells us that there was a tryst between Dame Geraldine O’Byrne and Tristram St. Lawrence which left the Wicklow woman heartbroken and shamed, so she transformed into a mermaid. It is said her wails of melancholy are still carried through the winds at night near the Mermaid’s Tower on the estate. [3]
The Howth Castle website tells us that:
“One Christmas, Thomas St. Lawrence, Bishop of Cork and Ross [(1755–1831), son of the 1st Earl, 15th Baron of Howth] returned to Howth Castle to find that the family had gone to stay with Lord Sligo for the holiday season. Bishop St. Lawrence was left alone in the cold and dark castle with just a housekeeper for company and his ancestors glaring at him from the portraits in the dark hallways. The housekeeper put him to bed in the ‘Mermaid’s Tower’. His room was described as if ‘designed as the locus in quo for a ghost scene. Its moth-eaten finery, antiquated and shabby – -its yellow curtains, fluttering in the air…the appearance of the room was enough to make a nervous spirit shudder.’
“He was suddenly and violently awoken in the night by the feeling of a cold, wet hand clasping his wrist and a cold hand covering his mouth. He made one large leap from his bed, lit his candle and there he found not a sinner in the room with him but one bloody yellow glove lying on his bed. Was he visited in the night by the mermaid?”
I’m confused about Barons of Howth as different sources number the Barons differently. I will follow the numbering used on The Peerage website, which refers to L. G. Pine, The New Extinct Peerage 1884-1971: Containing Extinct, Abeyant, Dormant and Suspended Peerages With Genealogies and Arms (London, U.K.: Heraldry Today, 1972), page 150. According to this, Christopher St. Lawrence (died around 1462) was 1st Baron Howth. He held the office of Constable of Dublin Castle from 1461.
The oldest surviving part of the castle is the gate tower in front of the main house. It dates to around 1450, the time of the 1st Baron Howth.
The Howth Castle website tells us that the Keep, the tower incorporated into the castle, also dates from the mid fifteenth century. Unfortunately I have misplaced the notes I took on my visit to the castle. Daniel pointed out the various parts of the castle as we stood on the balustrade looking out into the courtyard, telling us when each part was built. From the photograph of the painting above, the Keep is the large tower on the left of the front door, and the Gate House is slightly to the front of the building to the right. Traces remain in the gardens of the wall and turrets, which would have enclosed the area. You can’t fully see the keep from the front of the house.
Christopher’s son Robert St. Lawrence (d. 1486) 2nd Baron Howth served as Lord Chancellor of Ireland, after first serving as “Chancellor of the Green Wax,” which was the title of the Chancellor of the Exchequer of Ireland. He married Joan, second daughter of Edmund Beaufort, 2nd Duke of Somerset, so by marriage, Timothy William Ferres tells us, Lord Howth’s descendants derived descent from King Edward III, and became inheritors of the blood royal. [see 2]
Nicholas St. Lawrence (d. 1526) was 3rd Baron Howth according to the Dictionary of Irish Biography. He also served as Lord Chancellor of Ireland. He married three times. The first bride was Janet, daughter of Christopher Plunkett 2nd Baron Killeen. We came across the Plunketts of Killeen and Dunsany when we visited Dunsany Castle in County Meath.
The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that when Lambert Simnel came to Ireland in 1487 and was crowned as King Edward VI in Christchurch catheral in Dublin, Nicholas the 3rd Baron remained loyal to King Henry VII. [4] In 1504, as mentioned earlier, the 3rd Baron Howth played a significant role at the battle of Knockdoe in County Galway, where the lord deputy, 8th Earl of Kildare, defeated the MacWilliam Burkes of Clanricard and the O’Briens of Thomond. [see 4]
The family were well-connected. The third baron’s daughter Elizabeth married widower Richard Nugent, 3rd Baron Delvin, whose first wife had been the daughter of Gerald Fitzgerald 8th Earl of Kildare.
The son and heir of the 3rd Baron, Christopher (d. 1542), served as Sheriff for County Dublin. Christopher the 4th Baron was father to the 5th, Edward (d. 1549), 6th (Richard, d. 1558 and married Catherine, daughter of the 9th Earl of Kildare, but they had no children) and 7th Barons of Howth.
The Hall, which is the middle of the front facade, was added to the side of the Keep in 1558 by Christopher, who is the 20th Lord of Howth according to the Howth Castle website, or the 7th Baron. He was also called “the Blind Lord,” presumably due to weak eyesight. The 1558 hall is now entered by the main door of the Castle.
Christopher St. Lawrence (d. 1589) 7th Baron Howth was educated at Lincoln’s Inn, along with his two elder brothers, the 5th and 6th barons. Christopher entered Lincoln’s Inn in 1544 and was still resident ten years later in 1554. That year he was threatened with expulsion from Lincoln’s Inn for wearing a beard, which indicates, Terry Clavin suggests in the Dictionary of Irish Biography, a rakish side to his personality. He inherited his family estate of Howth and the title on the death of his brother Richard in autumn 1558 and was sworn a member of the Irish privy council soon afterward. [5]
The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that between December 1562 and February 1563 the 7th Baron represented Thomas Radcliffe 3rd Earl of Sussex’s views on the government of Ireland to Queen Elizabeth. [5]
The Dictionary tells us that from 1570 onward the 7th Baron Howth ceased to play an active role in the privy council and became increasingly estranged from the government. By 1575, concerned about his loyalty, the government briefly imprisoned him, following the arrest of his close associate Gerald Fitzgerald, 11th Earl of Kildare, upon charges of treason.
Christopher St. Lawrence (d. 1589) 7th Baron Howth compiled a book, The Book of Howth, in which he rebutted Henry Sidney’s views of Ireland.
Sir Henry Sidney (1529-1586), Lord Deputy of Ireland, after painter Arnold Van Brounkhorst, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
Sidney believed that the medieval conquest of Ireland failed due to the manner in which the descendants of the Norman colonists, the so-called ‘Old English,’ embraced Gaelic customs. He regarded as especially pernicious the system of ‘coign and livery.’ Under ‘coign and livery,’ landowners maintained private armies. Sidney believed this impoverished the country and institutionalised violence. Clavin writes that Lord Howth produced the ‘Book of Howth’ to rebut this interpretation of Irish history and to provide a thinly-veiled critique of Sidney’s reliance on and promotion of English-born officials and military adventurers at the expense of the Old English community. Howth held that the abolition of ‘coign and livery’ would leave the Old English exposed to the depredations of the Gaelic Irish. [5]
Instead of “coign and livery,” the English maintained a royal army, with landowners providing for the soldiers with the “cess.” Christopher St. Lawrence 7th Baron opposed the “cess.” Sidney suggested that a tax be imposed instead of the cess. Lord Howth objected and was imprisoned for six months. He and others similarly imprisoned were released when they acknowledged that the queen was entitled to tax her subjects during times of necessity. [5]
In 1579, Christopher was convicted cruelty towards his wife and children. His wife Elizabeth Plunket was from Beaulieu in County Louth (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/03/17/beaulieu-county-louth/). After he whipped his thirteen year old daughter Jane to punish her, she died. He beat his wife so badly that she had to remain in bed for two weeks, and then fled to her brother. Howth was tried before the court of castle chamber on charges of manslaughter and domestic abuse. Clavin writes that: “In an unprecedented step, given Howth’s social status, the court accepted testimony providing lurid details of his dissolute private life. This may reflect either the crown’s desire to discredit a prominent opposition figure or simply the savagery of his crimes.” [5] He was imprisoned and fined, and made to pay support for his wife and children, from whom he separated, and he fell out of public life.
Amazingly, he later married for a second time, this time to Cecilia Cusack (d. 1638), daughter of an Alderman of Dublin, Henry Cusack. After Christopher died in 1589, she married John Barnewall of Monktown, Co. Meath, and after his death, John Finglas, of Westpalstown, Co. Dublin.
Another legend of the castle stems from around the time of Christopher 7th Baron. When we visited the castle, the dining room was set with a place for a guest. The tradition is to keep a place for any passing guest. This stems from a legend about Grace O’Malley (c.1530-1603), “the pirate queen.”
Grace O’Malley was nicknamed ‘Grainne Mhaol’ (Grace the Bald) because when she was a child she cut her hair when her father Eoghan refused to take her on a voyage to Spain because he believed that a ship was no place for a girl. She cropped her hair to look like a boy. [6]
Grace O’Malley, 18th century Irish school, courtesy of Fonsie Mealy auction for Howth Castle, 2021.
The story is told that in around 1575, Grace O’Malley landed in Howth on her return from a visit to Queen Elizabeth. However, the Howth website tells us that Grace O’Malley did not visit Queen Elizabeth until 1593. She was in Dublin, however, in 1576, visiting the Lord Deputy. The story tells us that Grace O’Malley proceeded to Howth Castle, expecting to be invited for dinner, and to obtain supplies for her voyage home to Mayo. However, the gates were closed against her. This breached ancient Irish hospitality.
Later, when Lord Howth’s heir was taken to see her ship, she abducted him and brought him back to Mayo. She returned him after extracting a promise from Lord Howth that his gates would never be closed at the dinner hour, and that a place would always be laid for an unexpected guest.
Nicholas the 8th Baron fought with the British against the rebels in the Nine Years War (1594–1603). He fought alongside Henry Bagenal (d. 1598) against Hugh O’Neill (c.1540–1616) 2nd Earl of Tyrone, and accompanied Lord Deputy William Russell, later 1st Baron Russell of Thornhaugh, on his campaign against the O’Byrnes in County Wicklow. In 1601 he went to London to discuss Irish affairs, and the Queen formed a high opinion of him. She was also impressed by Howth’s eldest son Christopher, later 9th Baron Howth. [7]
William Russell (d. 1613) 1st Baron of Thornhaugh, painting attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger. Nicholas the 8th Baron accompanied Lord Deputy William Russell 1st Baron Russell of Thornhaugh on his campaign against the O’Byrnes in County Wicklow.
Nicholas married Margaret, daughter of Christopher Barnewall of Turvey in Dublin. She gave birth to the heir, and her daughter Margaret married Jenico Preston, 5th Viscount Gormanston. When widowed, daughter Margaret married Luke Plunkett, 1st Earl of Fingall.
In 1599, Christopher St. Lawrence 9th Baron was one of six who accompanied Robert Devereux 2nd Earl of Essex on his unauthorised return to England, riding with the earl to the royal palace at Nonesuch, where Essex burst in to Queen Elizabeth’s bedchamber.
Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex (1566-1601) by Marcus Geeraerts the younger (Bruges 1561/2 – London 1635/6) and Studio, dated, top left: 1599. From a full-length portrait at Woburn Abbey (Duke of Bedford), courtesy of National Trust.
Rumour circulated that Christopher St. Lawrence pledged to kill Essex’s arch-rival Sir Robert Cecil. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us:
“In late October he was summoned before the English privy council, where he denied having threatened Cecil’s life. One of the counsellors then referred to his Irishness, the clear implication being that as such he could not be trusted, at which he declared: ‘I am sorry that when I am in England, I should be esteemed an Irish Man, and in Ireland, an English Man; I have spent my blood, engaged and endangered my Liffe, often to doe Her Majestie Service, and doe beseech to have yt soe regarded’ (Collins, Letters and memorials of state, i, 138). His dignified and uncharacteristically tactful response eloquently summed up the quandary of the partially gaelicised descendants of the medieval invaders of Ireland (the Old English), who were regarded with suspicion by the Gaelic Irish and English alike. It also mollified his accusers, who, in any case, recognised that his martial prowess was urgently required in Ireland. Prior to his return to Dublin on 19 January, the queen reversed an earlier decision to cut off his salary, and commended him to the authorities in Dublin.” [8]
Christopher married Elizabeth Wentworth, daughter of Sir John Wentworth of Little Horkesley and Gosfield Hall, Essex, but by 1605 they separated, and the Privy Council ruled that he must pay for her maintenance. The St. Lawrence family inherited estates near Colchester from her family.
By 1601, while fighting in Ulster alongside the Lord Deputy Charles Blount, 8th Baron Mountjoy, many of the men Christopher commanded were Gaelic Irish. Increasingly dissatisfied, Christopher St. Lawrence began to alienate leading members of the political establishment.
Charles Blount (1563-1606), 8th Baron Mountjoy, Lord Deputy of Ireland, 1775, engraver Valentine Green after Paulus Van Somer; photograph courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
In 1605 the government began prosecuting prominent Catholics for failing to attend Church of Ireland services. Although Protestant, St. Lawrence’s family connections led him to identify with the Catholic opposition. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that he became involved in the planning of an uprising in late 1605, along with Hugh O’Neill, despite his father having previously battled against O’Neill. [8]
Hugh O’Neill (c. 1540-1616) 2nd Earl of Tyrone, courtesy of National Museums Northern Ireland. In Irish Portraits 1660-1860 by Anne Crookshank and the Knight of Glin, we are told that this was painted during his exile in Rome.
Low on funds, and not having yet inherited Howth, he sought to join the Spanish army in Flanders, where an Irish regiment had been established in 1605. He wanted support for a rebellion against the British crown. However, perhaps realising that an uprising would fail, he turned into an informant for the government. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that he sought to consolidate ties to the establishment by arranging the marriage of his son and heir Nicholas to a daughter of the Church of Ireland bishop of Meath, George Montgomery, in 1615.
George Montgomery, Bishop of Meath (c. 1566-1621), courtesy of Fonsie Mealy auction 2021.Inside Howth Castle before the interiors auction, photograph courtesy of Irish Times, Saturday August 14th 2021.Pictured here is George Montgomery, Bishop of Meath (c. 1566-1621). On the left is a painting of George Montgomery’s wife Susan Steyning (1573-1614). In the middle is William St. Lawrence, son of William, 14th Baron Howth c 1740, Attributed to John Lewis (fl 1745-60). The auction catalogue tells us: “Born sometime around 1732, William was given the same name as his father, William St. Lawrence, 14th Baron Howth. Although William’s mother, Lucy Gorges, was twenty years younger than her husband, they were happily married and had three children; a daughter named Mary, and two sons, Thomas (who became 1st Earl of Howth), and William, the sitter in this portrait. The St. Lawrences were friends of Jonathan Swift, who was a frequent visitor to Howth Castle and also to Kilfane, their country house in Co. Kilkenny, where William Snr indulged his passion for horses and hunting…The attribution of this painting to the Dublin artist John Lewis, in Toby Bernard’s “Making the Grand Figure: Lives and Possessions in Ireland 1641-1770”, is convincing. Although not well-known as a portrait painter, Lewis was at the centre of Dublin’s theatre and cultural life in the mid eighteenth century, when he worked as a scene painter at the Smock Alley Theatre. He painted portraits of actor Peg Woffington, and dramatist Henry Brooke. While on a visit to Quilca House in Co. Cavan with Thomas Sheridan, he painted mural decorations, with images of Milton, Shakespeare and Jonathan Swift. He may have painted the portrait of William St. Lawrence after the boy’s untimely death. Although destined for a life as a professional soldier, and appointed an ensign in the army while still just fourteen years old, William’s military career was shortlived. While still a teenager, in April 1749, he died of smallpox. Dr. Peter Murray 2021.”
Christopher acted as a secret agent for the Crown, while pretending to be part of the rebellion against the Crown. He was afraid of being discovered as a traitor. The Dictionary of Biography has a long entry about his and his double dealings. He died in 1619 at Howth and was buried at Howth abbey on 30 January 1620. He and his wife had two sons and a daughter; he was succeeded by his eldest son, Nicholas. [8]
Nicholas St. Lawrence (d. 1643/44) 10th Baron Howth added the top floor above the hall of Howth Castle sometime prior to 1641. He and his wife Jane née Montgomery had two daughters: Alison, who married Thomas Luttrell of Luttrellstown Castle (now a wedding venue), and Elizabeth.
Luttrellstown Castle, courtesy of Luttrellstown Castle Resort for Failte Ireland 2019, Ireland’s Content Pool. [9]
Nicholas’s brother Thomas (d. 1649) succeeded as 11th Baron. Thomas’s son, William St. Lawrence (1628-1671), succeeded as 12th Baron Howth. The 12th Baron was appointed Custos Rotulorum for Dublin in 1661, and sat in the Irish House of Lords.
Nicholas the 10th Baron’s daughter Elizabeth married, as her second husband, her cousin William St. Lawrence 12th Baron Howth. She gave birth to the 13th Baron Howth.
Thomas St. Lawrence (1659-1727) 13th Baron Howth inherited the title when he was only twelve years old. Thomas Butler, 6th Earl of Ossory was appointed by his father as his legal guardian.
Thomas Butler (1634-1680) 6th Earl of Ossory, studio of Sir Peter Lely, circa 1678, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 371. Second son of the Duke and Duchess of Ormond and father of 2nd Duke of Ormonde. He was appointed as Thomas St. Lawrence (1659-1727) 13th Baron Howth’s legal guardian.
Thomas St. Lawrence married Mary, daughter of Henry Barnewall, 2nd Viscount Barnewall of Kingsland, County Dublin. After first backing King James II, in 1697 he signed the declaration in favour of King William III.
His son William (1688-1748) succeeded as 14th Baron, and carried out extensive work on Howth Castle, completing the project in 1738. A painting dating from this period commemorates the work.
Dating from around 1740, this bird’s eye view of Howth Demesne commemorates the extensive rebuilding of Howth Castle, a project completed in 1738 under the direction of William St. Lawrence, 14th Baron of Howth. Attributed to William Van der Hagen (fl. 1720-1745) or Joseph Tudor (d. 1759). Photograph courtesy of Sales Catalogue, Fonsie Mealy auction of Howth Castle contents, 2021.
Mark Bence-Jones writes that the castle is “Basically a massive medieval keep, with corner towers crenellated in the Irish crow-step fashion, to which additions have been made through the centuries. The keep is joined by a hall range to a tower with similar turrets which probably dates from early C16; in front of this tower stands a C15 gatehouse tower, joined to it by a battlemented wall which forms one side of the entrance court.” [see 1]
Mark Bence-Jones describes the central part of the front of the house:
“The hall range, in the centre, now has Georgian sash windows and in front of it runs a handsome balustraded terrace with a broad flight of steps leading up to the entrance door, which has a pedimented and rusticated Doric doorcase. These Classical features date from 1738, when the castle was enlarged and modernized by William St. Lawrence, 14th Lord Howth, who frequently entertained his friend Dean Swift here.” [see 1]
Mark Bence-Jones describes: “The hall has eighteenth century doorcases with shouldered architraves, an early nineteenth century Gothic frieze and a medieval stone fireplace with a surround by Lutyens.” [see 1] The hall was added to the medieval tower in 1558 by Christopher, who is the 20th Lord of Howth according to the Howth Castle website, or the 7th Baron. It was later adapted by Edwin Lutyens in around 1911.
In Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life, Sean O’Reilly writes about the article written about Howth Castle by Weaver for Country Life:
“It is Lutyens’s selective retention and sensitive recovery of surviving original fabric from a variety of eras that distinguishes his work at Howth. The entrance hall, at the head of a wide flight of stairs, displays best his ability to empathise. While the photographs, by an unknown photographer and by Henson, convey his success, Weaver’s summary clarifies the architect’s methodology: ‘The general work of reparation in the interior revealed in the hall fireplace an old elliptical arch which enabled the original open hearth to be used once more. Above it Mr Macdonald Gill had painted, under Mr Lutyens’ direction, a charming conventional map of Howth and the neighbouring sea and a dial which records the movement of a wind gauge.’ ” [11]
The chimneypiece in the entrance hall was developed from existing Georgian and Victorian features, Seán O’Reilly tells us, with medieval fabric recovered during renovation, providing a mix of styles typical of Lutyens’ restorations. I wish I could find my notes to tell you more about the map painted by MacDonald Gill! I will just have to return so historian Daniel can tell me again.
We were lucky enough to visit the castle when it hosted an exhibition of paintings by Peter Pearson, which feature in a book: Of Sea and Stone: Paintings 1974-2014.
William the 14th Baron (1688-1748) married Lucy, younger daughter of Lieutenant-General Richard Gorges of Kilbrew, County Meath. Her mother was Nicola Sophia Hamilton, who before marrying Richard Gorges, had been married to Tristram Beresford, 3rd Baronet of Coleraine.
The Howth Castle website reminds us of a story that our guide on our visit to Curraghmore in County Waterford told us:
“For many years in the Drawing Room of the castle hung the portrait of a handsome woman. To the back of the portrait was attached an unsigned and undated note stating that the painting once had a black ribbon round the wrist but that this had been removed during cleaning. The woman is Nicola Hamilton born 1667 who married firstly Sir Tristram Beresford and subsequently General Richard Gorges. The younger daughter of this marriage was Lucy Gorges, wife of the 27th Lord Howth, Swift’s ‘blue-eyed nymph’.”
Nicola Hamilton (1666-1713) by 17th century Irish portraitist, Garrett Morphy, courtesy of Howth Castle instagram.
“The legend is that when she was quite young, she made an agreement with John Le Poer, Earl of Tyrone that whoever died first would come back and appear to the other. On dying Lord Tyrone came to her in the night, assured her of the truth of the Christian Revelation and made various predictions, that her first husband would soon die, that her son would marry the Tyrone heiress, and that she herself would die in her forty-seventh year, all of which came true. To convince her of the reality of his presence, he grasped her wrist causing her an injury and permanent scar which she concealed beneath a black ribbon.
“The ease with which the ribbon was removed from the portrait does little to enhance the veracity of the story.“
Nicola’s son was Marcus Beresford (1694-1763) 4th Baronet of Coleraine and as the ghost predicted, he married Catherine Le Poer of Curraghmore, daughter and heiress of James, 3rd Earl of Tyrone.
William St. Lawrence 14th Baron of Howth spent much time at another house he owned in Ireland, Kilfane in County Kilkenny. [12] He sat in the Irish House of Commons as MP for Ratoath between 1716 and 1727, and became a member of the Privy Council of Ireland in 1739.
William 14th Baron came to know Jonathan Swift through his wife. Swift became a regular visitor to Howth Castle and they exchanged numerous letters. At Howth’s request, Swift had his portrait painted by Francis Bindon.
Jonathan Swift by Francis Bindon, courtesy of Howth auction by Fonsie Mealy, 2021.
The painting of Jonathan Swift by Francis Bindon was offered at auction in 2021. A very similar painting by Bindon is owned by the Deanery of St. Patrick’s Cathedral. An obituary notice about Bindon in Faulkner’s Journal from 1765 describes Bindon as “one of the best painters and architects this nation has ever produced” and a copy of the Swift picture, painted by Robert Home, hangs in the Examination Hall at Trinity College, Dublin.
Portrait of Jonathan Swift (1667-1745) by Francis Bindon owned by St. Patrick’s Cathedral Deanery.
In 1736, Lady Lucy Howth’s brother Hamilton Gorges killed Lord Howth’s brother Henry St. Lawrence in a duel. Gorges was tried for murder but acquitted.
William 14th Baron and Lucy’s son Thomas (1730-1801) succeeded as 15th Baron. He was educated in Trinity College Dublin, and succeeded to the title when he was eighteen years old, after his father’s death. He became a barrister, and was elected as a “Bencher,” or Master of the Bench of King’s Inn in Dublin in 1767.
In 1750 he married Isabella, daughter of Henry King, 3rd Baronet of Boyle Abbey in County Roscommon.
Isabella King, daughter of Henry King 3rd Baronet of Boyle Abbey in County Roscommon and wife of Thomas, 1st Earl of Howth courtesy Adam’s 6 Oct 2009 Robert Hunter (c.1715/20-c.1803).
In 1767 Thomas was created Viscount St. Lawrence and then Earl of Howth. He was appointed to Ireland’s Privy Council in 1768. Timothy William Ferres tells us that in consideration of his own and his ancestors’ services, he obtained, in 1776, a pension of £500 a year.
His daughter Elizabeth married Dudley Alexander Sydney Cosby, 1st and last Baron Sydney and Stradbally, whom we came across when we visited Stradbally Hall in County Laois (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/10/14/stradbally-hall-stradbally-co-laois/ ). A younger son, Thomas St. Lawrence (1755-1831), became Lord Bishop of Cork and Ross. He’s the one who supposedly heard the mermaid in the tower!
Thomas’s son William (1752-1822) succeeded as 2nd Earl. William married firstly, in 1777, Mary Bermingham, 2nd daughter and co-heiress of Thomas, 1st Earl of Louth. Mary gave birth to several daughters.
Harriet St. Lawrence (d. 1830), daughter of William 2nd Earl of Howth. She married Arthur French St. George (1780-1844).
A daughter of the 2nd Earl of Howth, Isabella (d. 1837), married William Richard Annesley, 3rd Earl Annesley of Castlewellan, County Down.
Mary née Bermingham died in 1773 and William 2nd Earl of Howth then married Margaret Burke, daughter of William Burke of Glinsk, County Galway.
Howth Harbour was constructed from 1807, and in 1821, King George IV visited Ireland, landing at Howth pier.
Margaret the second wife, Countess of Howth, gave birth to a daughter Catherine, who married Charles Boyle, Viscount Dungarvan, son of the 8th Earl of Cork. She also gave birth to the heir, Thomas (1803-1874), who succeeded as 3rd Earl of Howth in 1822.
Thomas the 3rd Earl served as Vice-Admiral of the Province of Leinster, and Lord-Lieutenant of County Dublin. He married Emily, daughter of John Thomas de Burgh, the 1st Marquess of Clanricarde.
Emily, Countess of Howth, courtesy Fonsie Mealy Howth Castle sale.
Around 1840, Richard Morrison drew up plans for alterations in the castle, which were only partially executed, including Gothicizing the stables. [see 2]
Emily gave birth to several children, including the heir, but died of measles at the age of thirty-five, in 1842.
Emily and Thomas had a daughter, Emily (d. 1868), who married Thomas Gaisford (d. 1898). Another daughter, Margaret Frances, married Charles Compton William Domvile, 2nd Baronet of Templeogue and Santry.
The 3rd Earl married for a second time in 1851, to Henriette Elizabeth Digby Barfoot. She had a daughter, Henrietta Eliza, who married Benjamin Lee Guinness (1842-1900), and two other children.
In 1855 the 3rd Earl had the Kenelm Lee Guinness Tower built at the end of the east range at the front of the castle. Kenelm was the son of Henrietta née St. Lawrence and Benjamin Lee Guinness. The tower must have been named later, as Kenelm was born in 1887.
Thomas and Emily’s son William Ulick Tristram (1827-1909) succeeded as 4th Earl in 1874. He served as Captain in the 7th Hussars 1847-50. He was High Sheriff of County Dublin in 1854 and State Steward to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland from 1855 until 1866. In the English House of Commons he served as Liberal MP for Galway Borough from 1868 until 1874.
He had no children and the titles died with him.
The property passed to his sister Emily’s family, and her son added St. Lawrence to his surname to become Julian Charles Gaisford-St. Lawrence (d. 1932). In 1911 he hired Edwin Lutyens to renovate and enlarge the castle.
The most substantial addition was the three bay two storey Gaisford Tower, with basement and dormer attic, at the end of the west wing, which he built to house his library. This tower picked up many of the motifs distinguishing the earlier fabric, from its irregular massing to the use of stepped battlements with pyramidal pinnacles, all moulding it into the meandering fabric of the earlier buildings. [see 11] Other work included the steps to the east of the new tower, a loggia with bathrooms above between the old hall and the west wing and a sunken garden. He also added square plan corner turrets to the south-west and north-east facades, incorporating fabric of earlier structures, 1738 and ca 1840. [see 2]
New facade on the west wing introduced by Lutyens, with library tower on the left, photograph courtesy of Howth Castle instagram.Plan of Howth Castle, courtesy Archiseek.Drawings by Lutyens for Howth Castle.
Mark Bence-Jones writes:
“On the other side of the hall range, a long two storey wing containing the drawing room extends at right angles to it, ending in another tower similar to the keep, with Irish battlemented corner turrets. This last tower was added 1910 for Cmdr Julian Gaisford-St. Lawrence, who inherited Howth from his maternal uncle, 4th and last Earl of Howth, and assumed the additional surname of St Lawrence; it was designed by Sir Edward Lutyens, who also added a corridor with corbelled oriels at the back of the drawing room wing and a loggia at the junction of the wing with the hall range; as well as carrying out some alterations to the interior.”
This architectural sketch by Lutyens shows in the middle drawing, the balustraded terrace to the front door, the hall, with “smoking room” on the right and dining room on the left.The Gaisford Tower, I think, containing the library, by Lutyens. Photograph courtesy of Archiseek. [13]Drawings by Lutyens for Howth Castle.
From the front hall, to the right, when facing the fireplace, is the dining room. It has surviving eighteeth century panelling.
Bence-Jones writes that Lutyens restored the dining room to its original size after it had been partitioned off into several smaller rooms. It has a modillion cornice and eighteenth century style panelling with fluted Corinthian pilasters.
Mark Bence-Jones writes: “The drawing room has a heavily moulded mid-C18 ceiling, probably copied from William Kent’s Works of Inigo Jones; the walls are divided into panels with arched mouldings, a treatment which is repeated in one of the bedrooms.”
Before entering the library we entered another room, the Boudoir, which contains an old map of the estate. At its height, the Howth Estate covered about 15,000 acres. This estate stretched from Howth to Killester and partially through North County Dublin and Meath.
Mark Bence-Jones tells us: “Lutyens also made a simple and dignified Catholic chapel in early C19 range on one side of the entrance court; it has a barrel-vaulted ceiling and an apse behind the altar.”
The addition to the east wing by Lutyens in around 1911 contains the chapel. Unfortunately we did not get to see inside this wing.
Drawings by Lutyens for Howth Castle, the east wing.The Chapel, Howth Castle, photograph courtesy of Archiseek. [13]
Bence-Jones also tells us that the castle has famous gardens, with a formal garden laid out around 1720, gigantic beech hedges, an early eighteenth century canal, and plantings of rhododendrons. I will have to return to see the gardens!
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[1] p. 155. Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
“(Thunder/LGI1958) A single-storey house of five bays, with projecting end bays.”
Not in national inventory
Record of Protected Structures: Lagore Lodge
A very attractive small 3 bay single storey house. Dated from 1705 but would appear to be nearer 1800.
Lagore is located just east of Dunshaughlin, not far from Ratoath. Lagore House was described as a fine modern house in the 1830s. The gatelodge at Lagore is attributed to the renowned architect, Francis Johnson.
The Boltons family held the position of rector of Ratoath for nearly a hundred years. Henry Bolton was appointed in 1677 and he was succeeded in 1688 by Dr. John Bolton, who resigned in 1720 and was succeeded by Richard Bolton, who held the position until his death in 1761. A close relative, Thomas Lee Norman, then became rector.
John Bolton was appointed Dean of Derry in 1699. Swift hoped for the position but it is said he would not pay the bribe involved in securing the position. John Bolton died in 1724.
Robert Norman, M.P. for Derry 1733 married Sarah, daughter of Very Rev. John Bolton of Lagore. Their son, Thomas, was born in 1715 succeeded to Lagore. The daughter of Thomas, Florinda, married Charles Gardiner and they became the parents of Luke Gardiner, who developed much of Dublin’s Georgian north-side. Thomas was succeeded by his son Robert, who died without an heir in 1771.
In 1799 the lands were transferred to the Thunder family. The Thunder family were a merchant family in Dublin before acquiring lands at Balleally, Lusk, Co. Dublin. When Lagore was acquired Ballaly was retained as a dower house. Michael Thunder of Ballaly, Co. Dublin was the father of Patrick Thunder of Lagore. In 1798 Patrick married Elizabeth Taaffe of Smarmore Castle. Dr. Plunkett, Bishop of Meath, stayed with Patrick Thunder at Lagore when he visited Ratoath on his visitation of the diocese in 1800 and again in 1819. There was a private oratory in the house.
Patrick Thunder died about 1827 and was succeeded by his eldest son, Michael. Michael Thunder born in 1802, was High Sheriff of Meath in 1850. He married Charlotte Mary D’Alton in 1834. Their eldest son, Patrick, succeeded opt the estates and the second son, Michael settled at Sencehelstown. Michael served in the Rutland Regiment and retired from the army in 1864 as a Lieutenant. In 1837 Lagore House was described as a handsome residence in a richly wooded demesne, abounding with stately timber.
In 1839 William Wilde and George Petrie visited Lagore House to see the artefacts which had been dug out at the site of the crannog in Lagore bog.
Michael’s eldest son, also Michael succeeded him on his death in 1875 but only lived for four years longer and so the estate went to Patrick Thunder. In 1876 Michael Thunder of Lagore held 1,065 acres in Meath but the family also held lands in Westmeath, Kildare and Dublin amounting to a total estate of 2,002 acres.
Patrick Thunder of Lagore and Ballaly, Co. Dublin, was born in 1838. In 1871 he married Mary Anne de Penthony O’Kelly. Their son, Michael was born in 1874. In 1870 there was a family vault erected in the grounds of Ratoath Church. Patrick Thunder died in December 1912. 1n 1901 Patrick Thunder owned Lagore but it was resided in by Higgin Holmes Chippindall. Patrick and his family were residing at Balleally.
Michael Thunder
Michael Thunder, son of George Thunder of Lagore, was killed during World War I. a member of the Royal Flying Corps he died as a result of an accident in 1916. Wing commander Michael Dalton Thunder of Lagore in the RAF was the first man to fly non-stop from Ceylon to Perth in 1943.
In 1926 the untenanted lands of Patrick Thunder were acquired by the Land Commission. The house and surrounding lands were held by the family until November 1941 and they held onto a lodge which they still owned in the 1960s.
Mrs. Claudia Burgoyne and her son Major Mark Teeling Watters purchased Lagore House and lands from the Thunders in 1941. Major Watters had returned from WWII. The estate had a dairy and a modern bottling plant. Mrs. Burgoyne moved to St. Mary’s Abbey, Trim. Mr. Clements purchased Lagore. In August 1952 a fire destroyed the building. A modern house was erected on the site by the Walsh family. In 1956 the O’Hare family purchased Lagore.
Drumbaragh, County Meath, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
supplement.
p. 296. “Woodward/LG1875) A tall three storey three bay C18 block. Central chimneystack; C19 pillared porch and window surrounds.”
Not in National Inventory
Record of Protected Structures:
Drumbaragh House, townland: Drumbaragh.
Three storey over basement house built c. 1800, attributed to designs by Francis Johnston, remodelled in late 1860s by William Caldbeck, extended to the rear c.1900. Includes gate lodge, walled garden.
Drumbaragh, also spelled Drumbarrow, is located on the Oldcastle Road from Kells. Drumbaragh house is a three storey house with a large central chimneystack, erected about 1800, possibly to the design of Francis Johnston. The house was remodelled in the 1860s by architect, William Caldbeck. The house was extended at rear by architect, L.A. McDonnell, about 1900. The 1800s interiors have survived. The house was a distance from the public road with the farmyard between the house and the road. A gate lodge was erected for Robert Woodward to the design of his cousin the noted architect, Benjamin Woodward.
Drumbaragh was the seat of the Woodward family. Benjamin Wodward was confirmed in his lands at Drumbarrow in 1668 following their confiscations from the Hill and Plunkett families by Cromwell. Benjamin’s son, Joseph, died in 1702 leaving a son, Charles who married three times. By his second wife he had a son, Benjamin, born in 1710. Benjamin married Judith Meredyth of Newtown in 1733. Benjamin died in 1761 and was succeeded at Drumbarrow by his second son, Charles. Charles was born in 1740, entered the church. Rev. Charles Woodward was rector of Ardee. He died in 1793 and there is a memorial to him and his family in Kells Church of Ireland church. His first wife, Esther Wade of Clonabreany, died in 1776 and his second wife Elizabeth Minchin died in 1778. Henry, son of Benjamin and Esther, succeeded to Drumbarrow. The present house at Drumbaragh was constructed in 1800 for Henry Woodward.
In 1835 Drumbarrow House was described as the residence of Mr. Woodward. Drumbarrow was described as a neat house of two storeys and basement, surrounded by a well cared small demesne. There were considerable offices. A school house stood not far from the house in the 1830s. The famous Victorian architect, Benjamin Woodward, spent his childhood at his uncle’s home in Drumbarragh
Henry married Sarah-Catherine Wade of Clonabreany in 1800. Their second son, Robert, inherited Drumbarrow in 1838. Born in 1805, Robert entered Trinity College and was called to the Irish bar in 1829. His brother, Henry Thomas, emigrated and settled in Illinois, U.S.A. Robert died in 1864.
Drumbaragh was purchased by the Sweetman family in 1859 and it remained in the family’s hands until 1958. John Sweetman was the eldest son of a Dublin brewer. He took an active interest in nationalistic politics. In the mid to late 1870s he took over the full running of Drumbaragh from his mother. He joined the Irish Land League and proposed the MP for Meath, Charles Stewart Parnell for the position of President. He was one of the first Meath landowners to dispose of his estate under the 1903 land act. In 1880 Sweetman visited America and became involved in a scheme to settle poor Irish farmers in a colony in Minnesota. The family brewery in Dublin was sold to Arthur Guinness & Sons in 1891 and Sweetman decided to enter full time into politics. He was elected as an anti-Parnellite Irish Parliamentary Party MP for East Wicklow in 1892. In the general election of 1895 he stood for Meath North and was narrowly defeated. On 11 September 1895 Sweetman married Agnes, daughter of John P. Hanly of Navan.
In 1899 Sweetman was elected to Meath County Council and served as chairman 1902-8. He was one of the founders and financial backers of Sinn Féin in 1905, succeeding Edward Martyn to be the second President of the party in 1908. Arthur Griffith took over as the third President later in the year. He was arrested at his home in Meath followin the 1916 Rising in which he did not apparently play any active part, and was taken to prison in England. Sweetman was an opponent of women’s suffrage, and was criticised for endowing a UCD scholarship on condition that female students should be excluded from competing for it. He supported the Pro-Treaty side in the Civil War but changed his allegiance to Fianna Fail after 1927. He died in 1936. There is an article on Sweetman in the Dictionary of Irish Biography, written by Patrick Maume. The Sweetman family papers are in the National Library. John Walter Sweetman, the eldest son of John and Agnes Sweetman, married Olivia Dudley, and inherited the Drumbaragh estate after the death of his father. John Walter died in 1961.
Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 92. “(Corbally/LG1863; Corbally-Stourton, sub Mowbray, Segrave and Stourton, B.PB1970) A three storey C18 house with a front of originally seven bays and flanked by curved screen walls; to which a two storey villa by Francis Johnston was added 1801-7 for Elias Corbally; the older building and new being joined at an acute angle. The front of Johnston’s addition became the new entrance front: three bays, one bay breakfront centre; Wyatt window above single-storey Ionic portico; ground floor windows set in rather Soanian arched recesses. Johnston also changed the fenestration of the front of the old house to three bays and replaced the original staircase with a spiral secondary stair lit by a large polygonal cupola. His new block contained a large drawing room and dining room on either rside of a hall with a curved staircase extending into a bowed projection at the back. Along the front of the old house is an elegant glass conservatory with a curving roof; from its appearance, it would hav been added fairly early C19. Adjoining the house on this side is a handsome pedimented stable range, with a cupola clock. Inherited through his mother by Col Hon Edward Stourton, who assumed the additional name of Corbally’ and who sold Corbalton 1931.”
Not in National Inventory
Record of Protected Structures:
Detached house, three-bay two-storey over basement, 1801
by Francis Johnson, stableyards, walled garden, with lodges.
A stunning Georgian villa at the heart of a magical estate. Completely upgraded and tastefully refurbished throughout. For sale in one or three lots. The property is approached via an impressive stone pier entrance leading to a driveway that sweeps amidst a mature, parkland setting. There is also a separate entrance to the yard. Lot 1 Residence and buildings on c. 53.01 ha, (c.131 acres) Lot 2 Lands. c.91.86 ha, (c.227 acres) Lot 3 The Entire – Residence/buildings and lands on c.144.87 ha, (c.358 acres) The accommodation comprises briefly; Entrance Hall – Inner Hall – Drawing room – Sitting room – Dining room – Kitchen/breakfast room – Garden room – Library – Cinema – Gym – Bar – Wine and beer cellars – Pantries – Utility and laundry room Store rooms – Lift Once considered only a basement today the lower ground floor is very much a part of the accommodation of the house containing both the cinema and gym. Master bedroom suite – Guest bedroom suite – 2 further bedroom suites Walled garden cottage – Coach house and apartment – Extensive garaging and outbuildings Formal gardens – Kitchen garden – Walled garden – Paddocks – Agricultural land In all about 358 acres. The tillage lands are currently all in winter wheat. Historical Note
Corbalton Hall was owned by the Corbally-Stourton family for over a century and a half until it was sold in 1951. It changed hands again a few years later and after being left vacant, it became somewhat dilapidated. It was then bought by a German couple who set about restoring it. It was subsequently sold again in 1999 to its current owner who undertook the major restoration and refurbishment of the property. A distinctive two storey Georgian villa, designed by the notable Irish Architect, Francis Johnston, better known for his work on Aras an Uachtarain, and built in the first years of the 19th century. The residence has a handsome three-bay façade, a breakfront centre and a Wyatt window above a single-storey Ionic portico. The house is dominated by a grand entrance hall with ornate plasterwork on the ceiling and a fine marble fireplace. It has an inner hall with a cantilevered staircase lit by a large stained glass window and there are two elegant reception rooms on either side of the entrance hall. The Grounds The residence is surrounded by parkland and there is a large, walled garden, beautifully laid out with immaculate hedges. The stable yard is built of attractive cut stone and is exceptionally well maintained, as is the entire property.
Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.Corbalton Hall (formerly Cookstown House), Tara, Co Meath, photograpy by Tom Coakley, Barrow Coakley Photography Ltd., 25th May 2018.
Coonan Property and Goffs Property have confirmed the sale of Corbalton Hall, Tara, a period home on 358 acres in Skryne.
Purchased by a businessman for an undisclosed sum – the Georgian villa was originally designed by renowned Irish architect Francis Johnston over two hundred years ago. In recent times it has been thoughtfully and lovingly extended and restored to its current splendour by the educational technology entrepreneur Pat McDonagh and his family.
Coonan Property & Goffs Property say they were honoured to be instructed to handle the sale of Corbalton Hall in recent times.
“This rare treasure in Ireland’s heritage gives everything the county is most recognised for in one stunning package.”
Home for 150 years to the Corbally-Stourton family, it was bought 20 years ago by Riverdeep software businessman, Pat McDonagh, and his family. The family has now flown the nest, and the McDonaghs are downsizing from the 358 acre/148 hectare estate in the heart of Meath.
A three storey house was constructed on the Skryne-Ratoath road in the 18th century, to which a new wing was attached about 1801.
The two storey villa wing was designed by the distinguished Irish architect, Francis Johnston. It is suggested that the extension was as a result of the prosperity in the Irish corn market due to the Napoleonic wars. The older building and the new were joined at an acute angle.
Three vaulted rooms as well as associated walls of the original house were incorporated into the main 1801 house.
The Barnewalls held the property in the 17th century. Elias Corbally, a rich miller, acquired Cookstown about 1800 from a Mr White.
The Corbally family was Catholic and relative Bishop Plunkett of Killeen Castle was a regular visitor at their original home at nearby Sydenham.
Corbalton Hall is ensconced within fertile farmland in a County renowned as one of Ireland’s most prominent farming locations, this estate extends to approx. 358 acres (144.88 ha). At the same time however, it is well connected to amenities and has everything one both needs or desires within easy reach.
The joint agents said: “A true example of wholehearted stylish living in the most magnificent surroundings, we are certain that the new beginnings at Corbalton Hall will yield good fortune in every respect.”
The agents commented that: “A sale of this calibre shows there remains a demand for this type of property in the market currently plus we have a resilient marketplace given the testing few months we have just experienced. We wish the new owners every success in their new home.”
Corbalton was withdrawn from auction a year ago, guiding €11 million.
Poignantly, the funeral took place this week in Navan of Vicky Von Schmeider of Tara, whose family occupied Corbalton immediately prior to the McDonagh family acquiring the property.
Corbalton Hall, located between Skryne and Dunshaughlin, was home to the Corbally family. A three storey house was constructed in the eighteenth century to which a new wing was attached about 1801. The two storey villa wing was designed by the distinguished Irish architect, Francis Johnston. Casey and Rowan suggested that the extension was as a result of the prosperity in the Irish corn market due to the Napoleonic wars. The older building and the new were joined at an acute angle. Three vaulted rooms as well as associated walls of the original house were incorporated into the main 1801 house and are currently underneath a paved terrace. The front of Johnston’s addition became the new entrance front. The older section, called Cookstown House after the townland name, was demolished in 1970, leaving a gap between the stable block and the 1801 house. The farmyard was located away from the house on one of the entrance avenues.
The Barnewalls held the property in the seventeenth century. Elias Corbally, a rich miller, purchased Cookstown about 1800 from Mr. White. The Corbally family were a Catholic family and Bishop Plunkett was a regular visitor at their original home at nearby Sydenham. As a lieutenant in the Ratoath yeoman cavalry Elais Corbally was captured by rebels on the first day of the 1798 rebellion, but rescued by members of the Clonsilla yeoman cavalry. Corbally was active in various Catholic committees in Dublin and Navan attempting to secure better rights for Catholics. Corbally was a major contributor to the chapel at Skryne and donated the site for a new parochial house. In the 1830s Corbalton Hall was described as the elegant and spacious mansion of Elias Corbally, Esq., standing in a remarkably well-wooded demesne of about 1000 acres. Elias died in 1837 and is commemorated by a memorial in the ruined Rathregan church.
In 1817 Arthur James Plunkett, Lord Killeen, and later 9th Earl of Fingal, married Louisa, the only daughter of Elias Corbally of Corbalton Hall. The Plunkett family lived at Corbalton Hall and their children were born there. Arthur James, the eldest son of the 9th Earl, held the position of High Sheriff of Meath in 1845. A major in the 8th Dragoons he served at the Siege of Sebastopol during the Crimean War. William Plunkett was the third son of the 9th Earl of Fingal. Born at Corbalton in 1824 he joined the army, serving in the West Indies and Canada before joining the church. William was the first Irishman to join the Congregation of the Most Holy Redeemer in 1851. He worked in Manchester, Limerick, Clapham, Scotland and Australia as a Redemptorist priest. Sir Francis Richard Plunkett was born the sixth son of the 9th Earl Fingal at Corbalton Hall in 1835. Francis joined the diplomatic service and served throughout Europe before being made Minister in Tokyo in 1883. In 1900 he was appointed ambassador at Vienna, a post from which he retired in 1905.
Matthew Elias, son of Elias, was born in 1791. Living until 1870 Matthew was M.P. for Meath, a justice of the Peace and Deputy Lieutenant for County Meath. Matthew married Matilda Preston, daughter of the 12th Viscount Gormanston in 1842. Matilda died in 1889 aged 72 and husband and wife are buried in the vault in Skryne church. They only had one child, Mary Margaret, who was born in 1845. Matthew is said to have planted 14 lime trees along the cowfield and asked his daughter to have as many children.
In 1865 Mary married Alfred Joseph, 23rd Lord Mowbray, 24th Lord Segrave, 20th Lord Stourton and they had ten children, six boys and four girls. In 1876 Hon. Mrs. Corbally of Corbalton held 5,033 acres in county Meath. Alfred Joseph died in 1893, aged 64, in Paris. Mary Margaret died in 1925 aged 79. Their son, Edward Plantagenet Joseph, inherited the estate in 1925 and took the additional surname of Corbally. He sold the estate in 1951.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall dates from 1801 when the house was designed by Francis Johnston. The foremost architect of the period, Johnston was responsible for some of Ireland’s most significant buildings, such as Dublin’s GPO and the Chapel Royal in Dublin Castle, as well as many other country houses. His client on this occasion was Elias Corbally, a wealthy miller who bought the estate along with an older house, since demolished, called Cookstown. To commemorate his family, Corbally decided to name the new house Corbalton Hall. A flawless example of fashionable neo-classical taste, Corbalton is faced in crisp limestone, the two-storey facade defined by a freestanding Ionic portico. The windows on either side are set in shallow recesses with semi-elliptical fluted panels above them. Inside, the building follows a typical tripartite plan, with a central entrance hall flanked by the main reception rooms, accessed through meticulously finished mahogany doors. To the rear of the hall is the cantilevered staircase in pale Portland stone, the whole space amply lit by a generous bowed window on the return and leading up to a series of bedrooms.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Symmetry and order are paramount in Johnston’s neo-classical houses, so Corbalton Hall’s drawing room and dining room have exactly the same proportions, although the former has a large east-facing bow window offering views across the surrounding demesne. All the windows on this floor are set in shallow recesses holding the shutters, at the top of which can be seen a design detail typical of Johnston’s work: a fan-like fluted, semi-circular motif. In 1970 the original Cookstown House was demolished, leaving an empty space between Johnston’s villa and the stable block which he had also designed. At the start of the present century, however, an extension designed by conservation architect David Sheehan was added to the rear of Francis Johnston’s Corbalton Hall, on the footprint of the demolished building, thereby restoring coherence to the site. Fortunately the handsome stable yard survives and beyond it lie further work yards leading to a pair of substantial walled gardens (the first of them terraced), all essential features of a functioning country house.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
It is worth noting that Elias Corbally was a Roman Catholic, and a keen campaigner for the repeal of the Penal Laws, together with full civil rights for members of his faith. As a result, the Corballys became associated through marriage with other notable Catholic families elsewhere in County Meath. In 1817, for example, Elias’s only daughter Louisa Emilia Corbally married Arthur Plunket, 10th Earl of Fingall who lived not far away at Killeen Castle which had only recently been enlarged and altered by Francis Johnston. The Fingalls had always been Catholic, as were the Prestons, Viscount Gormanston: in 1842 Elias’s son and heir Matthew married the Hon Matilda Preston, daughter of the 12th Viscount. In 1865 their only child, and Elias’s granddaughter, Mary Margaret Corbally would marry Alfred Stourton, 24th Baron Segrave whose family title went all the way back to 1283; like the others, his ancestors had always remained Catholic. Their son, Colonel the Hon Edward Plantagenet Joseph Corbally Stourton was the last of the family to live at Corbalton Hall, selling the property in 1951. It then passed through several owners before being acquired a few years ago by the present owner who has carried out extensive restoration and refurbishment work on the building.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Corbalton Hall, County Meath, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 48.“(Bligh, sub Barrington/IFR) A house of several periods. The long garden front consists of a plain C18 centre, of one bay on either side of a curved bow, prolonged to the right by a four bay wing of similar style and height, added soon post 1800 to the design of Francis Johnston; and with, on the left, an earlier wing which is lower and now has mullioned windows. The entrance front is C19 Tudor Revival, of cut stone, with mullioned windows and a doorway with latticed side-lights recessed under an arch below the central gable. Small entrance hall. Room in central bow with simple C19 cornice. Frieze with garlands in dining room. Ballroom in Johnston wing, with elaborate early C19 plasterwork frieze and straight entablatures over four doorcases.”
Record of Protected Structures
Brittas, townland: Brittas. Town: Nobber.
It was the seat of the Bligh family since the 17th century. Built c. 1800. Francis Johnston is supposed to have worked on the house. A rectangular two -storey house with a wide hipped roof and a four bay ballroom to the East.
Brittas is a beautiful, proper estate, nestling in the Co. Meath countryside, the river Dee flowing through its northern boundary towards Whitewood lake . At one time the land belonged to the Cruise family but in the 17th century a cadet branch of the Blighs settled here in what possibly began as a hunting lodge . The Blighs had many notable ancestors/relations ( some quite distant) , including Bloody Mary, Oliver Cromwell and of course Captain Bligh of the Bounty. The senior( Rathmore) branch of the family , Earls of Darnley, Barons Clifton , had their seat at Clifton Lodge near Athboy and had almost 22,000 acres in Meath during the 1870s. Cobham hall in Kent was their English seat and they had over 9,300 acres there in the 19th century, indeed they lived here until the 1950s. The 2nd Earl, Edward Bligh was grandmaster of the Freemasons, installed 1737, and it was on his “ watch” that the prince of Wales received his first degree in said fraternity. Ivo Bligh( later 8th Earl of Darnley) , a well known cricketer was associated with the pursuit of the newly termed ” Ashes” from the Australians after the ” death ” of English cricket in 1882. I have included a family tree amongst the photos. The Bligh house at Brittas is an amalgamation of periods. Viewing from the garden front the main 18th century block has 1 bay either side of a bow. To the right is an early 19th century ballroom of 4 bays added by Francis Johnston .On the opposite end is an earlier ” wing”, probably built just after the main block . Viewing the house from the entrance front the “central ” block is somewhat Tudor revival in appearance, with cut sandstone and mullioned windows. Internally, the older parts have lower ceilings while the ” newer” parts have the more grand tall ceilings of the later Georgian period. The house does feel welcoming and comfortable. Some notable Blighs who lived here included General Thomas Bligh (brother of the Earl of Darnley) , who built a mausoleum ( or perhaps just memorial )for himself in a splendid spot with a marvellous view down to his house. He is allegedly buried beneath the mausoleum with his horse, although it’s more likely he’s interred in the family tomb at Rathmore. He fought in the raid on Cherbourg and named the wood at Brittas Cherbourg wood,indeed Cherbourg was used as a middle name in the family latterly . He also planted the famous tree formation know as ” Battlefield ” which copies his troops positions in a battle during the 7 years war , most of the trees survive today . Frederick Arthur Bligh was a renowned photographer of the late Victorian/Edwardian period who won many awards. His favourite camera still sits in Brittas. In the 1911 census Frederick Arthur is in residence with his wife Mary (Wentworth Forbes) , their daughter Gwendolen and 6 servants including Gwendolen’s French governess. The house apparently had 31 rooms used by the family. The last of the Bligh family to live at Brittas was the aforementioned Gwendolen Bligh , who married Brigadier Croker Barrington . Mrs Barrington lived at Brittas until the 1990s. Following a period of extensive renovations, the current owners of the Brittas estate are Oinri Jackson and Neville Jessop who run this private estate as closely to authentic traditional ways as possible nowadays. Some extremely fine horses are to be found here today . I wish to thank them for their hospitality , old photos and informative conversation.
The memorial shown here is situated on rising ground at Brittas, County Meath and is inscribed as follows: ‘Beneath this Monument Are interred the remains of Thomas BLIGH, Lieutenant General of his Majesty’s forces. General of horse at the battles of Dettinggen, Val, Fontenoy and Melle. And the commander in chief of British Troops at Cherburg, Who after spending many years In the service of his country with unwearied application Retired to a private life Therein toprepare his old age For a change to a better state And to enjoy with unspeakable comfort Thehopes of a happy immortality. Born A.D. 1695 Died Aug. the 17th, 1775 Aged 80 years.’ To one side of the monument are planted a series of trees ranked in the same formation as were the general’s troops during one of his campaigns. To the other the land drops away to offer a view of the house where he retired to enjoy the aforementioned private life and to prepare for ‘a happy immortality.’
Brittas House is located 2km west of Nobber village. It was the home of the Bligh family for over 200 years until 1998.
Brittas House is a rectangular two-storey house with a wide hipped roof and a four bay ballroom to the east. It is simply decorated and resembles Galtrim House, outside Trim. When I visited the house I remember stepping through the long eighteen pane sash windows extending to the ground which were in the ballroom at the garden front. Casey and Rowan described it as ‘overblown picturesque in appearance now”
The main section of the house was built in 1732 and incorporates an earlier residence which dates from 1672. In 1826 it was described as “a handsome villa, recently enlarged and much improved, after the designs of Mr. Francis Johnston”. The noted Irish architect, Francis Johnson, designed the later section of the house in 1803. In 1837 Samuel Lewis agreed with the previous account and described Brittas as “the handsome villa of Thos. Bligh, Esq., whose demesne, containing about 400 acres, is well planted.” Today the demesne amounts to 280 acres. The rolling countryside of the drumlins provide a backdrop to Brittas House and the landscape was designed in the eighteenth century to compliment the house.
The mature woodlands within the demesne were laid out by the house builder, Thomas Bligh, to represent the battle formation of the army at his battles on the continent.
The builder of Brittas House was Thomas Bligh, younger brother of John Bligh, first Earl of Darnley. Thomas was Member of Parliament for Athboy in 1715 and joining the army he reached the rank of Lieutenant General. He was commander in chief of the British forces when they fought the French at Cherbourg in 1758. His taking of the deserted Cherbourg was one of the actions of the Seven Year War. His attack on St. Malo resulted in a retreat by the English forces with a loss of 1000 men. A mausoleum commemorates Thomas at Brittas but he is buried in Rathmore where a plaque commemorates his victories.
When Thomas Bligh died the estate passed to his nephew, Thomas Cherburg Bligh. Thomas Cherburg Bligh married his cousin, Lady Theodosia Bligh, daughter of John, 3rd Earl of Darnley. Thomas Cherburgh Bligh was made MP for Athboy and later MP for Meath by his cousin and father in law, the Earl of Darnley, but he fell out with him and challenged him to a duel on a number of occasions. In 1820 he was bound over to the peace to prevent him annoying the Earl and his family.
Major Frederick Arthur Bligh lived at Brittas in the late nineteenth century. He held the rank of Major in the service of the Royal Artillery and also the office of Justice of the Peace. He was appointed to the office of High Sheriff of Meath in 1904. He fought in the First World War.
His daughter, Gwendoline Bligh, married Brigadier Croker Edmund (Edward) Barrington who was killed in Burma in 1944 during the Second World War. Mrs. Barrington, a noted dog breeder in particular Alsatians, continued to live in the house until her death in 1990. The house together with 280 acres was sold in 1998 prior to auction.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 275. “(Balfour/LGI1912; Crichton, Erne, e/PB) Francis Johnston’s Classical masterpiece, just as Charleville Forest is his masterpiece in Gothic. A house “of singular and impressive austerity” in the words of Christopher Hussey [of Country Life, I believe – Jen]. Designed 1794 for Blayney Balfour. Of two storeys over a basement, with three seven bay fronts that are identical except that the entrance front has a single storey Grecian Doric portico with coupled columns; and devoid of all ornament except for a string-course and a bold cornice; deriving their beauty from perfect proportions. Parapeted roof. Entrance hall with coffered ceiling and arched recesses in the manner of Soane. Superb central rotunda, lit by glazed dome, with a wonderfully light and graceful staircase curving up inside it. Around the upper storey of his rotunda are apses, niches and arched recesses, producing an “endlessly curving movement” and an infinite variety of spatial effects; Mrs Townley Balfour, the widow of the grandson of the builder, said, after living in the house for more than thirty years, that it gave her pleasure every time she passed up and down the staircase. Large, simple rooms arranged around the central rotunda; library with lightly coffered ceiling en suite with drawing room hung with jade-green Chinese wallpaper. Kitchen wing extending along one side of yard at basement level, with windows set in deep arches and Grecian Doric columns supporting plain and massive entablatures under relieving arches. Inherited, after the death of Mrs Townley Balfour 1954, by Mr David Crichton, who sold it to Trinity College Dublin 1956.”
Portrait of Mary (d. 1754), daughter of Hamilton Townley, married Blayney Townley (Balfour) (1705-1788) of Townley Hall, ENGLISH SCHOOL (MID 18TH CENTURY) courtesy Adam’s 11 Oct 2011.She was previously the wife of William Barton Tenison.Florence Townley-Balfour née Cole (1779-1862) daughter of William Willoughby Cole 1st Earl of Enniskillen, she married Blayney Townley-Balfour (1769-1856). Painting by Richard Rothwell, courtesy of National Trust Florence Court.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall’ by GARRET MORPHY (c. 1655 – 1715) courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall, attributed to Charles Jervas, courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.
The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Sim Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569338 The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569336 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 178 View along the drive up to the entrance front of Townley Hall through parkland. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Not Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569337
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Not Used CL 23/07/1948 Image Number: 568918
Image Number: 568920
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 535673 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 1978
Image Number: 568917
The drawing room at Townley Hall, hung with a jade green chinese paper. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510404 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 A section of the chinese wallpaper hung in the drawing room at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510405 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 The library at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568919 An interior at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568916The attic dormitory for bachelors at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 537034 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228
featured in Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life. Sean O’Reilly. Aurum Press Ltd, London, 1998.
p. 119. “The progress into the curvilinear staircase hall from the rectilinear entrance hall is indeed one of the great moments of Irish classical architecture…urged from Hussey a plaudit with which many would agree: ‘I would dare say there is nothing lovelier than this rotunda in the Georgian architecture in the British Isles.’ The contrast of sweeping curve and straight line inside the house is anticipated outside, but inversely, and only in the most subtle fashion. Here the rigid formality of the stone box of Townley is offset against rolling landscape, pitted with bulbous clumps of trees modulating the already undulating horizon.”
p. 120 [The first floor landing is integrated with lobbies behind arches, feeding to the rooms, a variation of the Irish top-lit circulation lobby.]
“The landscape itself is not untypical of the plains of northern Leinster’s interior, the region in which the Townley estate sits. Located near the banks of the River Boyne in Co Louth, it came to Blaney Townley-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1788.
It was in the years before his marriage in 1797 to Lady Florence Cole, daughter of the 1st Earl of Enniskillen, that the young gentleman planned and commenced a building that would come to represent a whole new phase in the history of Irish architecture. His Townley Hall, designed and built in the 1790s, could stand proudly beside the greatest house then being built in the country, Castlecoole, Co Fermanagh, situated only a county westwrard. Furthermore, being designed by a young Irish architect of obvious talent, Francis Johnston, the hew house instigated an enthusiasm for the work of native architects that would carry into the following century.
Hussey wrote of the house’s ‘remarkable… essentially Irish classicism – as contrasted with that of the alien architects’ so often employed in Ireland. Throughout the building, austerity and structural rationalism combine to produce a style imbued with contemporary Grecian taste, but evocative too of the mood of early Christian builders in Ireland, for whom architecture was the simple expression of structural logic.
In the staircase hall itself may be found the simple expression – however difficult the execution – of the fundamental structure of the cantilevered stone staircase. One of the great developments in Irish Georgian architecture, and well represented also in the staircase at Castletown, Co Kildare, this principle consists of stone slabs – the steps – wedged into a supporting wall, without support for their projecting ends. At Townley, Johnston takes full advantage of the slightness such a treatment will aloow to give an especially open effect in the rotunda of the staircase hall. This pure space, measuring roughly ten metres by fourteen, with coffered ceiling and panelled walls, is twisted through by the sweeping visual corkscrew of the staircase, showing how good architecture can become great.
p. 123. Assimilated into this majestic staircase hall is a distinctively Irish arrangement, the top-lit first floor landing of the type found at Russborough. Hussey published his own schematic drawing in order to explain how the top of the staircase gave access to the first floor rooms through rectangular lobbies extending from the curved landing in the hall proper. However, he did not refer to the pattern as a development from the Irish lobby arrangement, through it might be contrasted easily with the more architectonic – if less imaginative – variant at Castlecoole.
Johnston’s design for Townley Hall also displayed an apparently natural appreciation of progressive country house design. Outside, he eschews unnecessary ornament, and creates a buiding which rises like some classical temple directly from the ground – without the intercession of steps, area or a raised basement – as the best of contemporary taste required. Inside, continuing the mood, a sequence of vast pure spaces regulated by proportion and shallow ornament renders the very flow between rooms into the poetry of the architecture.
Though it is a building of apparent simplicity, in fact Townley Hall is one of ingenious duplicity. Behind its tall cornice hides a pitched roof of sufficient scale to hold an attic lit by dormers, while below its earthen base lies another floor. This, and more, is revealed at the rear, where in addition to the actual four storey elevation is found the discreetly hidden kitchen wing and court. This last, an aspect of the modern convenience that always clouded the primitive aspirations of the most intense neoclassical patrons and architects, is the only part of the exterior to receive arches.
Frances Johnston was a pupil of Thomas Cooley and, after the building of Townley Hall, he soon came to establish himself as Ireland’s finest native-born architect since Edward Lovett Pearce. Yet the commission for Blaney Townley -Balfour was not gained lightly. His patron looked for designs first, in 1792, from the noted Scottish neoclassicist James Playfair. Playfair records in his diaries the completion of his designs of July of that year, the work having been requested at a meeting in Rome the previous April. [p. 124] However, by 1794 Johnston had been decided upon as the new architect, and was soon able to supply a detailed estimate for the proposed house. The degree to which Johnston relied on the designs of the Scottish master is uncertain. What is clear is that a number of features explored by Playfair persist in Johnston’s work, from the use of seven-bay elevation to details in the kitchen court and even the door panelling – this last has a close parallel at Playfair’s own Cairness, Aberdeenshire. The cornices may be best compared to those of Johnston’s master Thomas Cooley at Caledon. Regardless of this, however, the character of the building has been made very much his own.
Johnston’s estimate of £10,473, exclusive of decoration, was substantial, especially considering the lack of elaboration typical of this phase of neoclassicism. Much of the expense was due to a tireless sophistication of detail and the emphasis given to the provision of modern facilities. Townley, exceptional for its day, was equipped with running water, and the surviving drawings include a plan of these services.
It is especially fortunate that a number of original documents and drawings survive, many now held in the Irish Architectural Archive in Dublin. The mason is identified as John Glover of nearby Drogheda, but there is no record of the decorators who supplied the furnishings, and many of these may have been supplied through the architect.
Followign the death of Mrs Townley-Balfour in 1954, widow of the grandson of Blaney Townley-Balfour and resident during the time of Hussey’s visit, it passed to David Crichton, from whom it was purchased by Trinity College Dublin in 1956, to serve as its first school of agriculture. It has more recently been in the possession of a private institution. Unfortunately, little of its original furniture survives and the kitchen wing, beautifully documented by Westley, has been gutted.
[the attic dormitories are carefully detailed – note the curved fans to the corners over the window shutters – marking its original formal use as a barracks for the male visitors.]
Townley Hall is a magnificent Georgian mansion built just over 200 years ago on a hilltop setting. Today it is surrounded by 60 acres of rolling parkland overlooking the Boyne Valley, very close to the site of the famous battle. The location is strikingly beautiful and peaceful.
The House is an architectural jewel. It is renowned for its exquisite interior, wonderful proportions, the quality of the materials and craftsmanship used in its construction and, in particular, its magnificent staircase – of which Country Life magazine once said:
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems.
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems. The poet laureate Sir John Betjeman, in a survey of the work of Francis Johnson wrote:
For information or bookings, contact the following:
Townley Hall It was designed by Irish architect Francis Johnston for the Townley Balfour family and built between 1794 and 1798, regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family.
Added notesfrom Irish Country Houses and Gardens, archives from Country Life, by Sean O’Reilly: Townley Hall, near the banks of River Boyne- a formal stone ‘box’, set off by rolling landscape and clumps of trees. It came to Blaney Townleu-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1780. It was described as “essential Irish Classicism”. There was an open rotunda staircase hall, inside, a sequence of vast, pure spaces- ingenious duplicity. Finally, in 1956, the House was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin, for the first School of Agriculture, but then went to a private institution. (It has attic dormitories). The kitchen was gutted.
Cupids play at the top of a blind niche in the rotunda of Townley Hall, County Louth, one of the loveliest houses in Ireland which has been discussed here on several occasions in the past (mostly notably Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté* on June 10th last year). Today marks the second anniversary of The Irish Aesthete, the first post being made on September 24th 2012. Two years later the site remains busy with at least three postings each week and, I am happy to report, an ever-increasing audience. In 2012 The Irish Aesthete received an average 23 views per day: the site now generates more than 610 views daily. Interest comes from across the world, the majority of visitors understandably resident in English-speaking countries but during the last quarter there have been substantial numbers from Brazil, the Russian Federation, Turkey and Vietnam, among many others. Whoever you are and wherever you live, thank you to all my readers for engaging with this site and for encouraging me to continue writing about Ireland’s architectural heritage, a subject dear to my heart and evidently to yours also. Your comments are always appreciated, although some of those written in more intemperate language may not be published (this site appreciates good manners). Please keep sending me your thoughts and responses, and in addition if you have suggestions for future subjects, I should be delighted to know of these: like all authors, I relish feedback. Thank you once again, and I look forward to retaining your interest over the next twelve months.
Two of the ceilings in Townley Hall, County Louth, that of the drawing room (above) and the entrance hall (below). Dating from the late 1790s Townley has been discussed here before, not least its rotunda stairhall (see Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté, June 10th) but amply repays further visits. The neo-classical masterpiece of Francis Johnston, the house owes as much to the couple responsible for its commissioning – Blayney Townley and Lady Florence Balfour – as to the architect. As these photographs show, the purity of decoration throughout is flawless.
In 1788 nineteen-year old Blayney Townley Balfour inherited the estate of Townley, County Louth from his grandfather. Sensitive, intelligent and affluent, around the time he came of age Balfour consulted with architect Francis Johnston about building a new house at Townley to replace the existing structure: Johnston had not long before completed work for Archbishop Richard Robinson at nearby Rokeby Hall (see Building on a Prelate’s Ambition, February 4th). At that stage the proposed design was not dissimilar from that seen at Rokeby, the idea being to construct a tall pedimented block. The project proceeded no further before 1791 when Balfour departed for France with his mother and sisters. Leaving them behind in Nice, he went on to Italy and spent time exploring the heritage of Florence and Rome, in the latter city meeting the Scottish neo-classical architect James Playfair. Following Balfour’s return to Ireland in early 1793 he received three designs for a new house from Playfair and while some of the ideas these contained (specifically the notion of a sunken courtyard at the rear of the building to accommodate kitchen and other services) were eventually incorporated, none of them was used by Townley Hall’s owner.
Informed by all he had seen on mainland Europe, once back in Ireland Balfour reverted to Francis Johnston. Yet the outcome of this commission seems to owe as much to client as architect. Indeed Balfour and one of his sisters Anne produced their own drawings for the proposed house and came up with its most distinctive feature: the circular central stair hall. Nevertheless the specifics of Townley Hall were designed by Johnston and it is justifiably considered to be his masterpiece. From the exterior, the building could not be more simple and unadorned: an apparently two-storey block (there is also a basement, and an attic level concealed behind the roof parapet) faced in limestone with each side of seven bays (except for the rear) and measuring ninety feet. The entrance is distinguished only by a plain porch with paired and fluted Doric columns and the windows are no more than openings in their respective walls.
The interior of Townley Hall is equally spare, but the occasional decorative flourish is so well applied and the quality of workmanship so flawless that the result is a building of rare refinement. Even so, nothing prepares a first-time visitor for the coup de foudre which lies at the heart of the house: its stair hall. This space owes an obvious debt to Palladio’s Villa Rotonda and to the Pantheon, both that in Rome and that designed in London by James Wyatt in 1772. Indeed Wyatt’s influence on Johnston’s work at Townley Hall is generally accepted, not least because in 1796 Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole whose family lived at Florence Court, County Fermanagh which is not far from Wyatt’s own neo-classical masterpiece Castle Coole.
Four mahogany doors set on the cardinal points and within relieving arches open into the stair hall. The cantilevered Portland stone stairs (with slender brass balusters finishing in a mahogany handrail) rise with gentle sinuosity around the wall perimeter, breaking once to form a landing directly above the door facing that from the entrance hall. At this level the doors are surrounded by arched frames which are also repeated around the curved walls, even when the stairs intervene. In order to minimise the divide between ground and first floor Johnston devised a shallow stepped Greek key border interwoven with a vine tendril, lines of acorns hanging from the lower section. Once on the landing, greater degrees of decoration are permitted, not least in the treatment of a further series of arches alternately left clear and filled with stuccowork of frolicking putti (and in three places they open into shallow lobbies providing access to bedrooms). At their topmost point these arches are tied by keystones to a frieze beneath the dome of ox skulls between swathes of drapery. Above it all rises the lightly coffered dome of thirty feet diameter, the central portion being glazed. There are times when language cannot do justice to a work of art, and Townley’s stair hall is one of them: the pictures shown here are infinitely more eloquent. The elegance of proportions, the perfection of form, the play of light on surface all combine to make this without question one of the loveliest rooms in the country, a flawless piece of design, the culmination of 18th century Irish architecture and a tribute to those responsible for its creation. No longer a private house, the building is now under the care of the School of Philosophy and Economic Science which is currently undertaking a programme of repair.
*From Charles Baudelaire’s L’invitation au voyage.
With thanks to Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects.
Radiating Portland stone lozenges cover the floor of the staircase hall at Townley Hall, County Louth. Dating from the late 1790s, the house is architect Francis Johnston’s masterpiece, one of the purest examples of neo-classicism in Ireland. This also marks the hundredth piece from the Irish Aesthete since the site made its debut last September. And so readers, you are cordially invited to offer feedback: what subjects most interest you; about what would you like to read more; are there buildings or subjects you wish to see featured? As ever, comments of the literate and temperate variety are welcomed.
The limestone gate lodge of Townley Hall, County Louth, believed to have been designed around 1819 by the main house’s architecturally informed owner Blayney Townley Balfour and his wife Lady Florence Cole. Taking the form of a dimunitive Greek temple, it makes a striking impression not least thanks to the pedimented and Doric columned portico. Although now empty, it continues to be well preserved and to demonstrate the possibility of achieving a lot with a little.
As has been discussed here before, Townley Hall, County Louth is one of Ireland’s most perfect neo-classical buildings (see: https://theirishaesthete.com/2013/06/10/la-tout-nest-quordre-et-beaute). The house was designed in the mid-1790s by Francis Johnston, who until then had been employed primarily by Richard Robinson, Archbishop of Armagh, often to complete commissions left unfinished following the early death of Thomas Cooley in 1784. Townley Hall is his first independent piece of work although here again the client’s involvement was critical since it is known that Blayney Townley Balfour, who owned the property, and his sister Anna Maria were intimately involved in every stage of the design.
Johnston was invited to design not just Townley Hall itself but also a number of ancillary buildings, including a new stableyard. His plans for this survive and are dated between 1799 (work being initiated on the site in May of that year) and 1804. The intention was to build around a rectangular courtyard with coach house and grainstore topped by a cupola on the north side, and stables coming forward to its immediate east and west. The south side was to be taken up by screen wall with arched entrance. Sadly this scheme was never realized, possibly for financial reasons (like many other house builders before and since, Blayney Townley Balfour discovered the initial budget was insufficient). Instead, while the northern range was constructed, it lacked the proposed cupola, and only the western range of stables were finished; a terrace of single-storey cottages runs along the eastern side of the site. Likewise the south wall with entrance arch was left unbuilt, and even a modified plan for railings with piers went unrealized. A drawing of the plan survives a penciled note reading ‘not built yet – 1837 FTB’, those initials standing for Lady Florence Townley Balfour (daughter of the first Earl of Enniskillen) who had married Blayney Townley Balfour in 1797.
As is well known, Townley Hall was sold by the heirs of the Townley Balfour family in the 1950s and, having been owned for a short period of time by Trinity College Dublin, was sold again with the Land Commission taking the greater part of the surrounding estate. Many of the ancillary buildings are no longer part of Townley Hall, including the former stableyard. Almost every other part of the former estate has been restored and brought into use, but sadly this element, which is, it seems, independently owned, has languished in neglect for a number of years, and is now in poor repair. Even if not as originally intended by Johnston, the yard remains associated with what is widely judged to be his masterpiece, and accordingly deserves a better fate.
In 1611, Sir Michael Balfour (d. 1619), 1st Lord Balfour of Burleigh, was appointed as one of the undertakers of the plantation of Ulster, and given a grant of 3,000 acres in County Fermanagh. Being preoccupied with affairs in England and Scotland, he seems to have made over some 2,000 acres of this grant to his younger brother, Sir James Balfour (d. 1634) (ennobled in 1619 as 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley in the Irish peerage), and to have sold the remainder to Sir Stephen Butler. In about 1618 Sir James built Balfour Castle at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) in fulfilment of the requirement on the plantation undertakers to establish defensible homes on their estates, and in 1626 he had a further grant of lands in Fermanagh. At some point before 1634, however, he sold the Pitcullo estate in Fife and his property in northern Ireland to Sir William Balfour (c.1575-1660), a soldier who was in the service of the States of Holland until 1627 and thereafter in that of King Charles I. Sir William is sometimes described as Lord Balfour of Glenawley’s cousin, but although the two men were evidently kin, any connection between them lay in the 15th century or earlier and is too distant to be traced. Sir William, who was Constable of the Tower of London 1630-41, can have had little time for his Irish property, but when it was threatened by the Irish rebellion of 1641, he dispatched his eldest son to Ireland as part of the Scots army sent to put down the rebellion, and he later obtained a commission to take a regiment to Ireland himself, although the start of the English civil war the following year prevented his going. Sir William’s staunch Presbyterian and anti-Catholic views (it is said that in 1638 he beat up a priest who attempted to convert his wife to Catholicism) led to increasingly uncertainty about his loyalty to Charles I, and at the end of 1641 he seems to have been forced to resign the constableship of the Tower. When the English Civil War began the following summer he joined the Parliamentarian side, and he was active in the field in many of the major engagements until 1645, when his health seems to have broken down, and he gave up his commands. Parliament ordered the payment of all his arrears of pay (some £7,000), but shortly afterwards doubts arose about his loyalty which were made a convenient excuse to defer payment, and much of the amount was still outstanding in 1655. In his declining years, Sir William made his home in Westminster, where he died in 1660, having lived just long enough to see the restoration of the monarchy. His widow, Isabella, continued to live there until her death in 1678.
Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) married twice. By his first wife, he had two sons, Alexander and William, who were both soldiers like their father. The intention seems to have been for Alexander to inherit the Irish estates and for William to inherit Pitcullo, but in fact both men were killed during the Civil War, so that Sir William’s property devolved on his only son by his second wife, Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713). It may be that Pitcullo formed part of the dowry of one of Sir William’s three daughters, or it may have been sold, but at all events it seems to have left the family at this time, and Charles and his descendants only had significant property in Ireland. Balfour Castle seems to have survived the Civil Wars of the mid 17th century and to have been reinforced in 1652 by Edmund Ludlow as a Protestant stronghold. It was less fortunate in 1689, when it is said to have been ‘dismantled’, presumably by the army of King James II, in a conflict in which Charles’s son, William Balfour (d. 1739) was active in the Williamite cause. Although the house was evidently repaired and continued in use down to 1803, it was probably no longer fit for gentry occupation, and the house belonging to William at Lisnaskea in 1730 (which was then said to be in poor condition and occupied as an alehouse) was probably a house in the town rather than the castle. William, who was the first of his family known to have served as an MP, probably lived mainly in Dublin. The estate was gradually fragmented by land sales in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, and it was a greatly diminished property which passed at William’s death in 1739 to his nephew, Henry (or Harry) Townley, who took the additional surname Balfour as a condition of his inheritance.
Henry Townley (1693-1741) was the son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont Hall, Louth and his wife Lucy, the sister of William Balfour. Blayney Townley had been born at Athclare Castle near Dunleer (Co. Louth), but apparently went to live at Piedmont Hall on his marriage in 1692. It seems likely that this property had belonged to his family for some time, but the house there may have been built for him. It was already shown as ruined on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey of Ireland 6″ map in the mid-19th century, but an account of 1924, when about half of the original house was still standing, described it as ‘a long, two-storied slated house’, very tall and narrow from front to back, with three high pitched gables facing the rear. Only a gable-end seems to survive today, and no illustration of the house has been found. At Piedmont House, Blayney and Lucy Townley raised a family of three sons and four daughters, and also Lucy’s daughter by her first husband. Henry Townley (later Townley Balfour) was their eldest son, and inherited Piedmont Hall on his father’s death as well as the Balfour Castle estate. He and his wife had only one son and one daughter, and the son, William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) died without issue, with the result that the estates passed to Henry’s surviving younger brother, Blayney Townley Townley (1705-88) of Townley Hall (Co. Louth), which he had acquired through his marriage to his cousin Mary, daughter of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall. Blayney Townley took the additional name Balfour on coming into his inheritance, and ever afterwards the heir in each generation had the names Blayney Townley Balfour.
In 1788, on the death of Blayney Townley Balfour (d. 1788), the Townley Hall, Piedmont Hall and Balfour Castle estates all descended to his grandson of the same name (1769-1856), who was travelling in Germany and Switzerland at the time. A cultured young man, he took a particular interest in architecture, and before leaving for further continental travels in 1791-92, he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from the young Irish architect, Francis Johnston (1760-1829). Johnston’s design, for a tall pedimented block very much like his recently completed house at Rokeby Hall (Co. Louth) survives, but evidently did not satisfy his client. While in Rome, Townley Balfour commissioned alternative designs from the Scottish architect James Playfair which were delivered in 1793, after his return to Ireland. All Playfair’s schemes proposed a neo-classical house with a sunk basement and detached kitchen wing, and these ideas provided the starting point for Balfour and his sister Anne, an accomplished amateur of architecture, to develop their own design. It was they who came up with the idea of planning the house around a circular staircase hall 30ft in diameter set in the centre of a house 90ft square. Having done so, they went back to Johnston, who developed the detailed proposals that allowed the house to actually be built and prepared an estimate for its construction in January 1794. In 1797, Balfour married Lady Florence Cole, a daughter of the Earl of Erne from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh), who came to share the interest of her husband and sister-in-law in architecture. She perhaps introduced her husband to the sophisticated elegance of James Wyatt’s work at Castle Coole, near her parents’ home, echoes of which can be found in the detailing and interior decoration of Townley Hall.
In 1821, B.T. Balfour sold what was left of the Balfour Castle estate to his father-in-law (then approaching the venerable age of ninety) and thereafter the interests of the family were concentrated in County Louth. The one exception to that seems to have been a property at Rostrevor (Co. Down), which seems to have become, in effect, the family’s dower house. Balfour’s sister Anne (d. 1820), who married the Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson, rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), lived in her short widowhood at Rostrevor and the family may have owned a property there from that time onwards.
At all events, when Balfour died in 1856 and his son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) moved into Townley Hall, his widow and her unmarried daughters moved to Rostrevor, where they acquired an irregular picturesque villa with deep eaves, bay windows, bargeboards, and Tudor hoodmoulds over some of the windows. This house, known as Fairy Hill, stood close to the centre of the village, and seems to have been built in the 1830s or 1840s, perhaps for the previous owner, Pierse Marcus Barron, who was resident in 1851. The family seem to have sold it after the last of the Balfour sisters died in 1892.
Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) seems to have spend a good deal of his time in England, where he lived in both London and Bristol at different times. He was a friend of Lord Goderich, who was briefly Prime Minister in the 1820s, and who seems to have secured his appointment as Lieutenant Governor of the Bahamas, 1833-35, an isolated public appointment in the career of an otherwise rather private man of antiquarian interests. He was succeeded by his elder son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928), a cultured man, also with antiquarian interests, who married late and had no children. In 1908 he became one of the first landowners in County Louth to take advantage of the Wyndham Act and sell his estate to his tenants. He retained only the demesne (still some 850 acres), and when he died, this and the house passed to his widow, Madeline Balfour (d. 1955). She bequeathed the estate to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it two years later to Trinity College, Dublin. The house was restored and occupied by the college’s School of Agriculture for some years, but in 1967 the University decided to sell the estate to the Land Commission and the Forestry Dept. Professor Frank Mitchell, one of the fellows of TCD, who was concerned about the fate of other houses which had passed into the hands of the agencies of the Irish state, stepped in to buy the house and immediate grounds to ensure their preservation. He and his wife turned the house into a study centre, and when they decided to retire, they found a charitable organisation, the School of Philosophy and Economic Science, who have on the whole been sympathetic owners and have carried out a fine restoration of the house.
Townley Hall, Co. Louth
One of the greatest neo-classical houses of Ireland, built in 1794-98 for Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh) to designs by Francis Johnston, but evidently with considerable input from Balfour himself and his sister Anne, who emerges as an accomplished amateur architect.
Townley Hall: entrance front.
The square house of grey limestone sits on the crown of a shallow hill and has three seven-bay fronts ’of singular and impressive austerity’ of two storeys above a sunk basement; the kitchen offices (which became derelict and roofless in the 20th century but have been recently returned to use for new purposes) are below ground level and open onto a broad yard at the back of the house which is almost entirely concealed from view.
Townley Hall: the Greek Doric portico on the entrance front. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The main facades are identical except for the single-storey Greek Doric portico on the entrance front, and devoid of all ornament except for a stringcourse and a bold cornice supporting a parapet that conceals the low-pitched roof. The facades derive their beauty from perfect proportions and the precision and accomplishment of the detail.
Inside, the entrance hall has a Portland stone floor, coffered ceiling, arched recesses on the walls and a pair of finely carved Doric chimneypieces. It leads through to a central top-lit circular rotunda with a glazed dome, which houses the wonderfully graceful staircase curving gently around the wall of the room. The floor has a complex radiating pattern of angular lozenges. On the first floor the wall is articulated as a succession of eight shallow arches, tied by enlarged keystones to a frieze of ox skulls set between swathes of fringed drapery. The soffit of the dome is panelled in light diagonal coffers in a pattern based on the popular model of the apses of the Temple of Venus in Rome, but subtly adapted by Johnston to be lighter and more elegant. In designing the room, Johnston has also avoided a heavy division between the ground and first floors, or between the first floor and the dome, so that the whole cylindical space of the rotunda flows upwards in an unbroken movement.
Townley Hall: staircase hall in 1996. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The rest of the interior consists of a series of generously large, airy rooms with simple decoration of refreshing clarity, arranged around the staircase hall and given sophistication by the quality of their joinery and plasterwork, which is evidently influenced (in both details such as the central circular panels of the drawing room doors and the drawing room ceiling) by a knowledge of what was being done at Castlecoole (Co. Fermanagh) under the direction of James Wyatt. The drawing room and dining room in particular are beautifully proportioned rooms, 18 ft high, 24 ft wide and 36 ft long. The rightness of these ratios is felt within each room and is enhanced by the clean lines of the cornices and the shallow mouldings on ceilings, doors, architraves and shutters.
In the basement below the staircase hall, the great weight of the Portland stone pavement above required support. The first idea was to build a circular load-bearing wall in the centre of the room, but in the end this was replaced by a more elegant quatrefoil Gothick shaft, which is plumbed to carry water to four stone basins at the base of the shaft. It is the one departure from the classical in the house, and seems to be inspired by a famous local antiquity, the lavabo at Mellifont Abbey, some three miles away. The execution of the Gothic mouldings, carved by a mason called Glover, is as precise as the classical detail elsewhere.
After their marriage in 1796, Lady Florence Balfour came to share the architectural interests of her husband and sister-in-law, and it was certainly she and her husband who designed the main entrance gates, erected in 1810, and probably the gate lodge, built in 1819 as a primitive temple, perhaps to prepare the visitor for the radical austerity of the house. Built in an unorthodox Tuscan order, its portico has baseless columns with smooth shafts, primitive blockish capitals, and a deeply overhanging eaves cornice supported on elongated mutules – a miniature and neo-classical reworking of Inigo Jones’ design for St. Paul, Covent Garden.
Townley Hall: the gate lodge designed in 1819 by Blayney and Lady Florence Balfour. Image: Patrick Comerford
Since 2012 the house has been undergoing a programme of gentle repair and refreshment under the experienced guidance of MVK Architects. A major element of the scheme has been the return of the former kitchen wing to habitable use as bedroom and bathroom accommodation for the residential study centre which now occupies the house, and this is very welcome in principle. Unfortunately, to provide the accommodation required a second floor and lift tower has been added to the kitchen wing, and the decision has been made to execute this in a minimalist modern style in the apparent belief that this will somehow echo the austerity of Johnston’s original design. This is misguided on at least two levels. In the first place, there is a world of difference between the precise and refined restraint of the original design, which is practised within the fundamental constraints imposed by the classical language, and the interstellar-void-bleakness of modernist austerity. Secondly, the elevation of the wing to the sunk rear courtyard was the one part of the original design that broke with the severity of the main block, having an elegant arcade of three tall arched windows (lighting the kitchen) set between a pair of unusual features in which a low segmental arch is cut by a beam, at the level of the impost of the kitchen arcade, and supported by a pair of baseless, unfluted columns. The alien new extension squats on top of this highly modelled facade with all the charm and responsiveness of a shoe box. Moreover, whereas the original design carefully sunk the kitchen wing into the ground, so that from three sides the house appeared unencumbered by any service additions, the addition of a second floor means it is now visible in all views of the house from the north, south and west. One hopes that this uncharacteristic lapse of judgement will soon be corrected, and the addition either removed or remodelled in a more acceptable form.
Descent: Hamilton Townley (b. 1673); to daughter Mary, wife of Blayney Townley Balfour (1705-88); to grandson, Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856); to son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882); to son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928); to widow, Madeline Elizabeth Balfour (d. 1955); to cousin, David Crichton; sold 1956 to Trinity College, Dublin for use by its School of Agriculture; sold 1967 to Professor Frank Mitchell; sold to School of Philosophy and Economic Science, a charity, for use as a residential study centre.
Balfour family of Castle Balfour and Townley Hall
Balfour, Lt-Gen. Sir William (c.1575-1660). Elder son of Col. Henry Balfour (d. 1580), a mercenary in the service of William of Orange, and his wife Christian, sister of Capt. David Cant, perhaps born c.1575. Educated by Duncan Balfour of St. Andrews, who was appointed his tutor after his father’s death. He served at intervals as an officer in the Scottish brigade in the Low Countries (Lt. by 1594; Sergeant-Major, 1610; Capt., 1615-24), but was also a member of the household of King James VI and I. In 1627 King Charles I secured his release from Dutch service and he became an officer in the Earl of Morton’s regiment (Lt-Col.), and then in 1630 Governor of the Tower of London. He was knighted by King James I in about 1605 and made a Gentleman of the Privy Chamber in the late 1620s. He was employed on a variety of difficult and confidential missions by King Charles, and rewarded with a lucrative patent to mint gold and silver money at the Tower in 1633. He was appointed to the King’s Council of War in June 1638 and continued in favour until 1641, but his strong Presbyterianism and strong anti-Catholicism seem gradually to have weakened his loyalty, and in December 1641 he either resigned or more probably was forced to resign, his Constableship of the Tower. In the spring of 1642 he was appointed to the command of a cavalry regiment destined for service in Ulster (where he no doubt hoped to protect his own property from the Catholic rebels), but before he could set off the English civil war had broken out and in August 1642 he joined the Parliamentarian side, being appointed a Lt-General of horse under the Earl of Bedford. He was active in the field until 1645 when he became too ill to continue fighting. As a Scot he was perhaps never wholly trusted by the English parliamentarians, and in 1650 when Cromwell proposed to invade Scotland he accepted a commission from the Scots parliament to command ‘strangers and native volunteers’, although he never seems to have taken up the command. In 1651 his wife was given four weeks to leave England, but later in the 1650s they lived quietly in Westminster. He married 1st, Helen (d. 1629), daughter of Sir Archibald Napier of Merchiston, and 2nd, Isabella (d. 1678), daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry More, son of Sir Edward More, and had issue: (1.1) Lt-Col. Alexander Balfour (fl. 1619-45); an officer in the service of the Dutch; married Elizabeth Anne Brunch or Bueuch, but perhaps had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Ireland; (1.2) Col. William Balfour (fl. 1619-44); had a grant of Pitcullo from his father, 24 August 1619; an officer in the Dutch army (Col.) and later in the service of Parliament as a cavalry commander during the Civil War, when he was active in Cornwall and Devon; married Christian Melville, but had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Somerset; (2.1) Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713) (q.v.); (2.2) Susanna Balfour (d. 1687); married 1st, c.1659, as his third wife, Hugh Hamilton (d. 1678), 1st Baron Hamilton of Glenawley, son of Malcolm Hamilton, Archbishop of Cashel, and had issue two sons and two daughters; married 2nd, Henry Mervyn MP (c.1628-1701) of Trillick (Tyrone); died in Dublin, 11 December, and was buried there 14 December 1687; (2.3) Emilia Balfour (d. 1683); married, before 1657, Alexander Stewart (1634-1701), 5th Earl of Moray and had issue four sons and one daughter; died 16 January 1683; (2.4) Isabella Balfour (fl. 1674); married, 1649, John Balfour (c.1620-97), 3rd Lord Balfour of Burleigh, and had issue three sons and six daughters. He purchased the lands and castle of Pitcullo and Castle Balfour at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) from Sir James Balfour (d. 1634), 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley between 1626 and 1629. He was buried at Westminster (Middx), 28 July 1660. His first wife died in December 1629. His widow was buried at Westminster, 28 March 1674; her will was proved in the PCC, 1 April 1674.
Balfour, Charles (c.1631-1713). Only son of Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) and his second wife Isabella, daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry Moore, born about 1631. He married, 1665, Cicely (c.1644-88), daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts) and had issue: (1) William Balfour (d. 1739) (q.v.); (2) Lucy Balfour (d. 1713) (q.v.); (3) A daughter. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1660. He died in May 1713. His wife died in about 1688.
Balfour, William (d. 1739). Only son of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). He was an officer in the army of the Prince of Orange in Ireland (Capt., 1688; retired on half-pay by 1713) and was attainted by King James II and the Irish Parliament in 1689. Despite this, he was initially a Tory in politics, but by 1713 had joined the Whigs; he was MP for Carlingford, 1705-13, and for Augher, 1713-14, 1715-39. He was awarded an honorary degree by Trinity College, Dublin, 1718 (LLD). High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1734. He was unmarried and without issue. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1713, but by 1730 his house at Lisnaskea was being used as an alehouse and was in poor repair. At his death the estate passed to his nephew, Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741). He probably lived mainly in Dublin. He died 19 April 1739; his will was proved in Dublin the same year.
Balfour, Lucy (d. 1713). Elder daughter of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). She married 1st, 1684, Hugh McGill (d. 1690) of Kirkestown (Co. Down) and 2nd, 14 November 1692, Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont (Co. Louth) and Athclare Castle (Co. Louth), MP in Irish Parliament for Dunleer, 1692-93, 1695-99, 1703-14 and for Carlingford 1715-22, son of Henry Blayney (d. 1691) of Aclare (Louth), and had issue: (1.1) Jane McGill (c.1690-c.1776); married Samuel Molyneux Madden (1686-1765), and had issue one son and one daughter; (2.1) Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) (q.v.); (2.2) Elizabeth Townley (c.1694-1750); married, 1 October 1709, Rev. Hans Montgomerie (1668-1726), rector of Killinshee, vicar of Ballywalter and curate of Grey Abbey, and had issue four daughters; died 3 January 1750; (2.3) Charles Townley; (2.4) Mary Townley; (2.5) Lucy Townley; married [forename unknown] Berry; (2.6) Vincentia Townley (c.1704-63); married, 18 April 1730, Wallop Brabazon (1698-1767) of Rath (Louth), and had issue three sons and one daughter; died 1763. (2.7) Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) (q.v.). She and her second husband settled at Piedmont (Co. Louth). She died 14 June 1713 and was buried at Dunleer. Her first husband died between 1684 and 1692. Her second husband died at Piedmont, 22 August 1722, and was buried at Dunleer; his will was proved in Dublin, 1723.
Townley (later Balfour), Henry (1693-1741). Elder son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 19 December 1693. Sovereign (i.e. Mayor) of Carlingford, 1720, 1728; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1726. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1727-41. He took the additional surname Balfour in 1739 after inheriting the estates of his uncle, William Balfour, and was described by his obituarist as “a Gentleman of sweet Temper, great Honour and Hospitality, and every Virtue that could render a Man agreeable”. He married, 1724, Anne (d. 1741), daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wicklow), and had issue: (1) William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) (q.v.); (2) Emilia Balfour. He inherited the Piedmont (Co. Louth) estate from his father in 1722 and Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) from his maternal uncle in 1739. He died in Dublin, 20 July 1741. His wife’s will was proved in 1741.
Balfour, William Charles Townley (c.1730-59). Only son of Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) and his wife Anne, daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wexford), born about 1730. A member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1756-59. High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1757. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1757-59. He married, 1754, Mary (c.1733-89), daughter of Maj. Thomas Aston of Drogheda (Co. Louth), but had no issue. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his father in 1741 and lived at Beamore (Co. Meath). On his death his estates passed to his uncle, Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88). His widow lived for some years at Chequers (Bucks). He died 21 November 1759. His widow died in 1789.
Townley (later Balfour), Blayney Townley (1705-88). Youngest son of Blayney Townley (1666-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 26 July 1705 and baptised, probably at Ballymascanlan. Educated at Carrickmacross Grammar School, Trinity College, Dublin (admitted 1723) and Middle Temple (admitted 1727; called to Irish bar. 1731). A Governor of the Dublin Workhouse, 1755-68 and of the Foundling Hospital and Workhouse, 1769-88; a member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1768-88. He took the additional surname Balfour on inheriting the estates of his nephew in 1759. MP in Irish Parliament for Carlingford, Jan-Oct 1760, 1761-76. He married, 30 November 1734, his first cousin Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), and had issue: (1) Hamilton Townley Balfour (1742-46), born 1742; died young, 1746; (2) Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) (q.v.). On his marriage, he settled at Townley Hall which his wife had inherited from her father. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his nephew in 1759. He died in 1788. His wife’s date of death is unknown.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1744-71). Only surviving son of Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) and his wife Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall (Co. Louth) and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), born 1744. Educated at Brasenose College, Oxford (matriculated 1763). High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1771. He married, 20 February 1768, Letitia (1746-1838), daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) (q.v.); (2) Anna Maria Townley Balfour (1770-1820); shared her brother’s interest in architecture and was involved in the design of Townley Hall; married, 6 November 1793, Very Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson (1768-1811), Dean of Clonmacnoise and rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), 1806-11, third son of Richard Dawson of Ardee, but had no issue; died at Rostrevor (Down), 19 May and was buried at Townley Hall, 23 May 1820; (3) Mary Frances Townley Balfour (1772-1820), born 1772; died unmarried on the day of her sister’s burial, 23 May 1820. He died in the lifetime of his father, 8 December 1771. His widow died in Dublin aged 91, 10 April 1838, and her will was proved the same year.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1769-1856). Only son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) and his wife Letitia, daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, born 28 May 1769. Educated at Trinity College, Oxford (matriculated 1786), travelled in Switzerland and Germany, 1788, made a visit to Nice (France), 1791, with his mother and sisters, and then went on alone to Italy (visiting Genoa, Turin, Parma, Modena, Bologna, Florence and Rome, and returning by Venice) in 1791-92. During his travels, he became interested in architecture, and while in Rome he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from James Playfair, which were eventually superseded. He and his sister Anne seem both to have been competent amateur architects, and his wife came to share their interest. He had important input into the eventual design of the new house at Townley Hall, and he and his wife evidently designed the lodge and gatepiers. JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Louth, 1792. In politics he was strongly opposed to the Union with Great Britain, and secured a seat in the Irish Parliament as MP for Belturbet, Jan-August 1800 in order to vote against it. He married, 17 October 1797, Lady Florence (c.1779-1862), daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) (q.v.); (2) Anne Maria Townley Balfour (1800-92), born 5 July 1800; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor (Co. Down); died unmarried aged 92, on 29 August 1892; will proved in Dublin, 14 February 1893 (effects £5,616); (3) Rev. Willoughby William Townley Balfour (1801-88), born 10 October 1801; educated at Harrow and Trinity College, Dublin (matriculated 1819; BA 1823); ordained deacon, 1829 and priest, 1832; vicar of Askeaton (Co. Limerick), 1833-37; rector of Aston Flamville with Burbage (Leics), 1837-78; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 29 June 1888; will proved 29 November 1888 (effects £3,276); (4) Letitia Frances Townley Balfour (1803-85), born 7 November 1803; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor; died unmarried, 30 January 1885; will proved 24 March 1885 (effects £5,144); (5) Francis Leigh Townley Balfour (1805-33), born 22 February and baptised at Clifton (Glos), 27 February 1805; died unmarried of “the Country Fever”, 28 October 1833 and was buried in St John’s Cathedral, Belize City, where he is commemorated by a mural tablet designed by Joseph Theakston and executed in 1844; (6) Florence Henrietta Townley Balfour (1808-81), born 28 July 1808; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 23 July 1881; will proved 25 November 1881 (effects £3,894); (7) Maj. Arthur Lowry (Townley) Balfour (1809-50), born 3 December 1809; an officer in the army (Lt., 1833; Capt., 1839; Maj., 1849); ADC to Sir Charles Metcalfe as Governor General of Canada, 1843; died of smallpox at Govindhur (India), 13 July 1850; administration of his goods was granted to one of his creditors, 5 August 1858 (effects under £450); (8) Elizabeth Sarah Townley Balfour (1813-38), born 21 August and baptised at Kingston (Surrey), 12 September 1813; died unmarried, ‘after a few hours’ illness’ at Ryde (IoW), 19 November 1838; (9) Lowry Vesey Townley Balfour (1819-78), born 30 March 1819; Secretary of the Order of St. Patrick and Gentleman-at-Large to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland; died unmarried in Dublin, 12 February 1878; will proved in Dublin, 6 June 1878 (estate in Ireland under £7,000 and in England under £1,500). He inherited Townley Hall from his grandfather in 1788, and built a new house there in 1794-98 to the designs of Francis Johnston. He sold the remaining part of the Castle Balfour estate in 1821 to John Creighton (1731-1828), 1st Earl of Erne. He died 22 December 1856. His widow died at Rostrevor (Co. Down), 1 March 1862; her will was proved 10 April 1862 (effects under £8,000).
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1799-1882). Eldest son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence, daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, born 2 July 1799. Educated at Christ Church, Oxford (matriculated 1818; BA 1822). Lieutenant-Governor of the Bahama Islands, 1833-35. JP for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1841. While on honeymoon in Rome in 1843 he bought, with some other Jacobite relics, a volume of reflections and private devotions in the hand of King James II, printed for the Roxburghe Club in 1925; the original is now in the library of Trinity College, Dublin. He married, 12 January 1843 at Leamington Spa (Warks), Elizabeth Catherine (1820-1904), daughter and heiress of Richard Molesworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), and had issue: (1) Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928) (q.v.); (2) Rt. Rev. Francis Richard Townley Balfour (1846-1924), born at Sorrento (Italy), 21 June 1846; educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (MA 1872) and Cuddesdon Theological College; ordained deacon, 1872 and priest, 1874; undertook missionary work for the Society for the Propogration of the Gospel in Basutoland (now Lesotho) and South Africa from 1875, and became a fluent speaker of Sesotho, into which language he translated the Bible and the Book of Common Prayer; chaplain to Bishop of Bloemfontein, 1875-82; canon of Bloemfontein, 1884-1901; Archdeacon of Bloemfontein, 1901-06 and of Basutoland, 1908-22; he was consecrated an Assistant Bishop in the diocese of Bloemfontein in 1911 and was thus effectively the first Anglican bishop in Basutoland; died at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 3 February 1924 and was buried in the grounds of Mellifont Abbey (Co. Louth); will proved in Dublin (estate £10,499); (3) Catherine Florence Agnes Balfour (1858-1912), born 17 January 1858; died unmarried at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 13 January 1912; will proved in Dublin, 29 February 1912 (estate £11,307); (4) Mary Henrietta Balfour (1860-1937), born 23 October 1860; died in Shankill (Co. Dublin), 24 August 1937; her will was proved in London, 6 December 1937 (estate £13,298). He inherited Townley Hall from his father in 1856, but seems to have spent much of his time in England, usually in London or Bristol. He died 5 September 1882; his will was proved in Dublin, 20 December 1882 (effects in Ireland, £20,723) and in London, 15 January 1883 (effects in England £337). His widow died 9 January 1904; her will was proved in Dublin, 25 February 1904 (estate in Ireland, £9,641) and sealed in London, 5 March 1904 (estate in England, £7,322).
Townley Balfour, Blayney Reynell (1845-1928). Elder son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) and his wife Elizabeth Catherine, daughter and heiress of Richard Mackworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), born in Dublin, 15 April 1845. Educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (matriculated 1866; BA 1871; MA 1874) and Middle Temple (admitted 1879). JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1885, 1908. “His manner was somewhat reserved and distant, but his disposition was thoroughly kind and charitable” and he was noted for his philanthropic activities, both in Co. Louth and for national and international causes. He was a Member of the Royal Irish Academy from 1890 and a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Ireland, and wrote several works about the antiquities of Drogheda; he was also responsible for instigating the repair of the monument on the site of the Battle of the Boyne. He married, 24 January 1906 at St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Madeline Elizabeth (1867-1955), elder daughter of John Kells Ingram LLD, Vice-Provost of Trinity College, Dublin, but had no issue. He inherited the 3,173 acre Townley Hall estate from his father in 1882, but in 1908 he became one of the first landowners to sell the majority of the estate to his tenants under the Wyndham Act. He retained only the 856 acre demesne, which was sold to him under the Act, allowing him to claim a £14,000 advance of purchase money and a 12% bonus, and subsequently to make annual repayments; this device – allowed as an incentive to landowners – enabled him to invest in estate improvements. At his death the house and remaining estate passed to his widow, who left it to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it 1957 to Trinity College, Dublin. He died 21 October 1928; will proved in London, 11 March 1929 (effects in England £39,606), in Dublin, 5 April 1929 (effects in Ireland £39,282), in Belfast, 13 May 1929 (effects in Northern Ireland £890) and confirmed in Scotland, 31 May 1929 (effects in Scotland £1,278). His widow died 25 March 1955; her will was proved in Dublin, 3 August 1955 (estate £52,246).
Sources
Burke’s Landed Gentry of Ireland, 1912, pp. 24-25; Anon., ‘Two Residences of the Townley Family in Co. Louth’, Journal of the County Louth Archaeological Society, 1924, pp. 267-269; A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North-West Ulster, 1979, p. 359; M. Bence-Jones, A guide to Irish country houses, 2nd edn., 1990, pp. 275-76; C. Casey & A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North Leinster, 1993, pp. 503-08; J. Ingamells, A dictionary of British and Irish travellers in Italy, 1701-1800, 1999, p. 44; E.M. Johnston-Liik, The History of the Irish Parliament, 1692-1800, vol. 3, pp. 130-31, vol. 6, pp. 425-28.
Location of archives
Balfour family of Balfour Castle (Fermanagh): deeds, estate and legal papers, 17th-19th cents. [Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, D1939] Balfour family of Townley Hall (Louth): deeds, estate and family papers, 17th-20th cents. [National Library of Ireland, D971, D1902, D2624; T3763; MS3771]
Coat of arms
Townley Balfour of Townley Hall: Quarterly, 1st and 4th, argent, on a chevron sable, an otter’s head erased, of the first; 2nd and 3rd, argent, a fesse sable, in chief three mullets of the second.
Notes about missing information and help wanted with this entry
If anyone can provide an image of Piedmont Hall (Co. Louth) when it was intact or substantially so, I would be very pleased to see it. I would also welcome any early photographs of Townley Hall, especially views of the interior showing it as it was furnished before it was sold in 1957.
If anyone can provide additional genealogical or biographical details about the people mentioned above, or further portraits or photographs of members of the family, I should be very pleased to incorporate them.
Revision and acknowledgements
This post was first published 24 October 2018.
Townley Hall, perhaps the premier country house achievement of Francis Johnston , is a neoclassical wonder near Drogheda in county Louth. It was completed for Blayney Townley Balfour in 1799, the work having taken about 5 years. It’s 2 storey over basement ( although there is also an attic floor with windows hidden behind the tall cornice and from the rear looks 4 storey with the basement exposed ) ,and has 3 seven bay sides each 90 feet in length .The front also has a single storey portico with twined fluted columns. There is a single storey wing in the rear sunken yard which was for kitchen use .
The external droved ashlar is of the highest standard, the limestone sourced locally, possibly Sheepgrange.
It’s austere plainness, with the exception of string course and cornice , it’s pure scale, build quality and positioning amalgamate to create a building of beauty and for want of a better description,strength .
The pond at the front of the house is a relatively speaking recent addition, although there was a pond about 500 yards to the north of the house at one time pre 20th century .
While Francis Johnston was the principal architect here, it is also known that Blayney Townley Balfour( having completed a grand tour ) ,along with his sister and in laws , greatly contributed to its design and build .
Balfour and his wife ,Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court in Fermanagh ,designed the Boyne gate lodge ( it was one of 3) themselves circa 1819.
Balfour had discussed details at one stage with a Scottish architect James Playfair, but in the end went with Johnston . It was I believe perhaps Johnstons first major solo commission .
The central rotunda , glass dome and staircase are especially magnificent . The seemingly magically floating ascent to the stars adorned with niches, apses ,recesses
and decorative plasterwork leave one agog and in awe. My photos and description do it no justice. The Pantheon in Rome springs to mind perhaps.
The daring way in which the steps of the stairs in essence support one after another with only stability support from the wall has to be applauded not only for their beauty, but also perhaps their bravery.
The internal doors, made from Cuban mahogany bear no hinges, but use steel pivots top and bottom, window shutters with movements that mesmerise , a gothic shaft in the lower hall( plumbed) to support the portland stone floor above are just a few examples showing the difference between this house and many others as regards details . I am also informed the house was one of the first in Ireland to have inside toilet facilities.
Blayney Townley Balfour had inherited the estate from his grandfather ( same name).The old house had stood a short distance north of
the new house. The family had large land holdings in Louth and Meath and made a fortune from a mill in Slane. Later , in the 1870s they owned over 3,000 acres in Louth and almost 1,500 in Meath.
The Townley family origins were at Townley Hall in Lancashire, the Balfours were from Burleigh in Scotland.
The Townley Balfour family motto was
Omne solum forti patria ( roughly translates to -every land is home for the brave man )
Our “first ” Blayney Townley had added Balfour to his name after inheriting a large amount from his nephew ( I think) William Balfour . He married his cousin Mary who had inherited the old Townley hall from her father Hamilton Townley . It was this man , then Blayney Townley Balfour that left the estate to his grandson , the builder of the house we see today . That grandson had been an MP ( for Belturbet) , a magistrate in Louth and Meath , High Sheriff in 1792 and DL in his old age 1852.
His son , another Blayney Townley Balfour inherited , having been Governor of the Bahamas 1833-35. It was subsequently his son who was then the last to live at a Townley Hall. He was Blayney Reynold Townley Balfour . In the 1901 census he and his wife Madeline ( 22 years his junior )were in residence with 8 servants . It reported there were 42 rooms in use.
When the widowed Mrs Townley Balfour died in 1954 , she left the place to a family relative , David Crichton ( possibly connected to the Crichton family at Crom Castle, but that is speculative on my part ).He sold the house and it’s by then 850 acres to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural college . Subsequently they sold off most of the land to the land commission and forestry Dept. The house and about 60 acres were bought by Frank Mitchell , a Trinity lecturer ,in the late 1960s. He sold it to the School of Philosophy and Economic Science who use and maintain it nowadays . The house is of course a private property and I am grateful for the permission to visit and photograph.
An immaculate concept, a gorgeous late Georgian flowering. Townley Hall deep in the Boyne Valley came about in the closing years of the 18th century. Its architect Francis Johnston designed Rokeby Hall, 17 kilometres north of Townley Hall, a decade earlier in 1786. The former is a smaller version of the latter. Both are of a spare patrician architecture so appealing to the modern eye. Plain planes. Townley is an achingly svelte seven bay by seven bay 27.5 metre square block.
The architect conceals and reveals scale and massing as the viewer moves round the outside. This is a four storey house masquerading on three sides as a two storey building. Attic dormers lurk behind a solid parapet in a similar arrangement to the contemporaneous Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, except there the dormers peep through balustraded gaps in the parapet. Townley is Castle Coole taken to next level Grecian severity in a case of keeping up with the Lowry-Corrys. Francis’ brother Richard was the original architect for Castle Coole: he was replaced by the celebrity architect James Wyatt. There is another Fermanagh link: the client Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole in 1794. She was from Florence Court, a neighbouring estate of James Wyatt’s masterpiece.
Townley Hall is an essay in structural rationalism, a formal stone box grounded by rolling countryside. Recent semiformal planting softens the grey to green juxtaposition. Unencumbered by unnecessary architectural frippery, Francis employs taut lines. He let’s go – just a little – with the kitchen wing. A collection of curves carefully enriches the wing’s fenestration: recessed arches, roundheaded windows, segmental arched tripartite mezzanine windows, a bow window. It’s not just an august purity auguring minimalism that defines Townley. Workmanship and materiality are also top notch. The facing ashlar was quarried from nearby Sheephouse. It has lower absorbency than most limestone. Mortar is barely visible between the masonry. Metal rods reinforce the slimmest of glazing bars. A mid storey string cornice and Greek Doric eaves cornice relieve the expanse of wall.
A tetrastyle Doric portico leads into the entrance hall which has twin Doric chimneypieces – more restrained versions that those in Castle Coole. That’s a theme developing in this article. Rectangular plasterwork wall panels resemble vast empty picture frames. A coffered ceiling adds to the room’s crisp angularity. Straight ahead – silent drum roll – is the rotunda, a nine metre diameter glass domed cylinder forming the core of the house. A swagger of genius. A swoop of plasterwork swags and skulls. Irish design at its most suave. All the plasterwork whether naturalistic or geometric is of shallow relief. There are two coats of paint on the rotunda walls: the current 1920s creamy beige over the original stone grey. The ribbed dome casts a spidery web of shadows which leisurely climbs the staircase as the afternoon progresses.
An interlinking ceiling rose pattern in the drawing room is similar to the overhead plasterwork of the dining room in Castle Coole. Like all the main rooms around the rotunda it is 7.3 metres deep. This layout allows all the main rooms to have natural light while the rotunda is top lit. Rokeby Hall is similarly laid out and equally bright. It is an efficient arrangement removing the need for corridors. Andrea Palladio’s 1560s Villa Rotundaoutside Vicenza is an obvious source of inspiration although the dome of Townley is hidden behind the attic floor rather than being on full display. Surprisingly Francis’ drawings illustrate the final rationality of layout and simplicity of design was achieved through an evolutionary process. For example, the more elaborate Ionic order (which James Wyatt used for the portico of Castle Coole) was replaced with the plainer Greek Doric for the portico. Francis was clearly a master of the Golden Ratio.
A set of early 1900s photographs (courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive: reproduced here for non commercial educational purposes) includes views of the interior. Furnishings were suitably classical and restrained. Chinese wallpaper in the south facing drawing room is a rare flush of extravagance. The boudoir and dressing room over the drawing room overlook the parkland. They are one of five family suites clustered around the first floor rotunda landing. On the floor above, the view from the servants’ dormitories is the backside of the parapet below a sliver of sky. The only unobstructed attic windows are in the west facing barrack room which looks down into the courtyard: guards needed to be on watch.
In 1957 the family sold the house and 350 hectare estate to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural school. Since 1977, Townley and its immediate 60 hectares has been a residential study centre owned by the School of Philosophy and Economic Science. A single level extension (visible as one storey on the north front) was recently completed over the kitchen wing plus a double height access link to the original house. The two main conservation schools of thought are to either design an extension that blends in with the host building or one that contrasts with it. The current Irish notion strongly favours the latter. Oh the architectural profession’s fear of that ultimate sin: pastiche! That’s despite every other modern glass building being derived from Philip Johnson’s Glass House in Connecticut and its 70 year old ilk. RKD Architects of Newmarket Dublin secured planning permission for an extension that consisted of similar massing to that executed except the courtyard facing elevation was a dormered mansard. RKD proposed Georgian style sash windows throughout.
Treasa Langford of Dúchas Heritage Service commented on the application, “The finishing of the north wall is not specified; however, the construction is specified as exposed uncoursed rubblestone, which would appear to be inappropriate on a cut stone house such as Townley Hall. We would recommend a ruled and lined nap lime plaster finish without use of cement.” Her opinion is based on the view of sympathetically blending old and new. It could be counterargued that rubblestone would be suitably subservient to the cut stone of the grand main block, emphasising the ancillary nature of the wing.
A decade later, MVK Architects of Fitzwilliam Square Dublin’s design also secured planning permission and this time it was built out. Their approach is very different. The design concept is to add an identifiably contemporary layer to this historic property. Subordination and deference are common themes of both practices’ thinking. MVK’s has neither a mansard nor Georgian style glazing bars but the window openings are classically positioned and proportioned.
Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects relates, “The choice of material was based on aesthetic as well as practical considerations. Natural zinc has a light grey colour – from historic photographs it appears the slate on the original roof had a similar light grey colour. The material is not intended to match the limestone colour but rather be complementary to it. Zinc is natural, hardwearing, long lasting and difficult to puncture. These characteristics make it ideal for long term weatherproofed cladding. It is stiffer than lead or copper and consequently allows for the crispness of detailing which is intended throughout.” This metal envelope is fixed on plywood decking across battens to form a ventilation zone. The zinc is fitted in strips of varying widths using a staggered but repeating rhythm which reflects the use of differently sized limestone blocks on the main house exterior.
The best example in Ireland of a Modernist addition to a neoclassical building is of course the Ulster MuseumBelfast extension. Edinburgh architect James Cumming Wynnes won the 1913 competition for the original museum. The exterior displays fairly ornate Beaux Arts decoration. In 1964, London architect Francis Pym won a competition to extend the museum. His highly inventive design is at once contextual and disruptive. He draws out the neoclassical detailing such as cornices and string courses which then collide with abstract cubic concrete blocks expressing the layout of the galleries inside. Francis’ dramatic work is unsurpassed in its genre. Surprisingly, he worked in church conservation and his only other recorded built form is a gazebo somewhere in England.
This is an article of superlatives. The O’Connell Wing of Abbey Leix in County Laois is a study in how to do it right. Architect John O’Connell’s masterful 1990s reimagining of an unfinished 1860s wing by Thomas Henry Wyatt (an Anglo Irish distant next generation relation of James) is a lesson in improving what’s there already. Client Sir David Davies explains, “This extension was never built as planned but the remains of the Wyatt scheme – a low unadorned wall to the right of the main house was a disfiguring distraction, an issue O’Connell resolved by puncturing the walls with windows and adding architectural ornament.” John O’Connell was also responsible for the late 20th century restoration of Castle Coole. This is an article of connections.
Sympathetic contextual additions; visibly contemporary extensions; dramatic architectural interventions; subtly remodelled wings – they all have their place and supporters. English Poet Laureate and architectural historian Sir John Betjeman once stated, “I have seen many Irish houses, but I know none at once so dignified, so restrained and so original as Townley Hall in County Louth.” More than 230 years after it was finished, such is the strength of Francis Johnson’s design, capturing the spirit of a future age, it still possesses dignity, restraint and originality.
Designed by Francis Johnston for Blaney Balfour in 1794, Townley Hall, Co. Louth, is considered one of his finest works. The home was passed down through the Balfour family over the centuries and finally was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin in 1956. The house is set on a prominent site in parklands which, in 1827, were called by Gardener’s Magazine, “one of the most magnificent demesnes in the kingdom.” In 2003 the owners applied to the Irish Georgian Society for funding to repair the faulty rotunda flashings and the damage caused by water ingress. The Society supplied over €6,435 for these projects.
Brief description of project: The rotunda roof flashings had caused significant damage to the structural ring beam at wall plate level. Not only was the structural integrity of the splendid dome compromised, but original, decorative plaster detailing was affected as well. Thanks in part to the Society’s donations, it was possible to erect a temporary cover which enabled the repair of the roof structure using best practice techniques.
Architectural description: Townley Hall is a two-storey, square building of seven bays. The west elevation has a kitchen which features deep-set windows and Grecian Doric columns. The exterior of the house was completed in a restrained manner with the roof concealed behind a parapet and few decorative effects but for a string course and cornice and a Doric single storey portico to the front. However, the interior is simply but masterfully executed, the main attraction being the central, coffered rotunda and spiral, cantilever staircase. Around the upper level of the rotunda are apses, niches, and arched recesses.
Grants Awarded:
2003: €6,435 from IGS toward faulty rotunda flashing and water damage.
Detached seven-bay two-storey over basement with attic country house, built c. 1800. Tetrastyle Greek Doric portico to east, single-storey three-bay service wing to west. Hipped slate roofs, rolled lead ridge and hips, glass dome to rotunda with replacement copper roof around dome, circular cast-iron downpipes. Tooled limestone ashlar walling, limestone plinth and string courses, denticulated cornice to wall tops east, south and north elevations. Square-headed window openings, limestone sills, painted six-over-six timber sliding sash windows; wrought-iron window guards to basement; three-over-three sliding sash windows to attic west elevation. Greek Doric portico to east, fluted columns, tooled limestone steps and platform, paired engaged fluted columns flanking square-headed door opening, timber five-panel double doors; square-headed door opening to north, painted timber panelled double doors with glass upper panels, painted timber mullioned overlight, concrete bridge to door over basement; round-headed door opening to west, dressed limestone block-and-start surround, painted timber door with glass panels; blocked door openings with Greek Doric columns to west wing. Interior with Portland limestone geometrical-paving to rotunda, stone cantilever staircase, glass dome, stucco centre pieces and cornices, timber panelled shutter boxes and Cuban mahogany doors. Set in own grounds, round pond to east, lawns sloping away to south, outbuildings to north-west.
Appraisal
Designed by Francis Johnston, this monumental Greek Revival house is widely regarded as his masterpiece. Said to have been influenced by the then owner’s, Blayney Townley Balfour, visits to Europe, it displays high-quality stone masonry, particularly to its portico whose Greek Doric entablature is reflected in the denticulated cornice of the house. Situated on an elevated site it is surrounded by sloping lawns and a complex of outhouses to the north-west. The distinguishing feature of Townley Hall is the airy rotunda with its particularly pleasing cantilevered staircase, but more subtle features such as the mahogany doors are also expertly crafted.
643. Townley Hall, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
65no decorative relief anywhere in fact, except a rather mean frame (not executed)
with small engaged Ionic columns around the main door. On the west facade
the cornice is interrupted and the attic windows become visible, while the base-
ment windows too are revealed and look out onto a sunken kitchen yard. The
one-storey kitchen wing, now derelict, extends from the north end of the west
facade into this yard (Plate 2).
The plan (Plate 3) is arranged around a central top-lit domed rotunda which
rises through two storeys from the ground floor and which contains the main
stairs. Rectangular rooms are distributed around this central space. In the attic
storey, rooms are lit by dormer windows behind the cornice, and are entered
from a corridor lit by windows overlooking the dome. Describing the house in
his letter to Brewer in 1820, Johnston referred with characteristic modesty to the
remarkable rotunda—it is “open to and lighted from the top (and) has a good
effect” (Plate 4).
The source for the “singular and impressive austerity”7 of the exterior is to be
found in James Wyatt. In an early drawing for the entrance elevation for
Townley there are specific allusions to Wyatt in the wide tripartite windows of
the end bays. The development towards regularity in the later drawings, the
increased austerity of the facades and the use of Greek Doric columns8 suggest
further that Johnston was following a lead given by Wyatt in his Irish buildings.
That Wyatt’s work should have been influential for an Irish architect of
ability, who was still unknown, and who had received an important country
house commission, was to be expected. Wyatt was the great man who had been
called in from abroad for the prestigious work at Slane and Castle Coole. There
were, however, other reasons why Johnston should have looked to Wyatt, as
he was to do later in his Castle style phase. Johnston had been a protege of
Primate Robinson who had employed Wyatt for the building of Canterbury
Quad in Christ Church, Oxford. Also, since Richard Johnston, a brother of
Francis, had produced designs for Castle Coole in 1789, and with Thomas
Cooley had actually built Newtownmountkennedy House” on Wyatt’s plans,
Francis Johnston must have been intimately familiar with, and much influenced
by, the Attic simplicity of Castle Coole and Newtownmountkennedy House.
The precise source for the plan of Townley Hall, dominated by the central
rotunda, is more difficult to pin down. An obvious parallel can be drawn be-
tween this plan and that of Palladio’s Villa Rotunda without its porticoes, where
the central space has a diameter of thirty Vicentine feet. The diameter of the
Townley stair-well is also thirty feet. Gibbs in his Book of Architecture engraved
the plan of a country house10 which develops this theme by placing a double
branched curving staircase in a centrally placed top-lit space; also, as is clear
7) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 23rd and 30th July, 1948.
8) The portico as built is Greek Doric. It is not clear from the Dublin drawings at what date
the Ionic doorcase was replaced by the Greek Doric portico, but Johnston’s interest in
the primitive orders in the mid 1790’s suggests a date not much later than 1794.
y> John Cornforth on Newtownmountkennedy House, Country Life, October 28th and
November 11th, 1965.
10) J. Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, 1728, Plate 54.
664. Townley Hall, staircase.in St. George’s Church in Dublin, and in the General Post Office, Johnston knew
Gibbs’ book well, and used it as a source of inspiration. With these suggested
points of departure must be mentioned the Irish habit of having spacious,
centrally placed and top-lit bedroom halls.11 Such a bedroom-hall, rising through
two storeys, is found at Castle Coole, where the actual plan owes more to
Richard Johnston than does the elevation. Circular bedroom halls are also found
in both upper floors of Rokeby Hall.
From some such amalgam of influence, prototype and local practice Johnston
evolved this Townley rotunda, this isolated grand gesture in a plan which is
otherwise as rectangular and austere as the elevations.12 It was typical of Johnston
to concentrate in the staircase the single moment of spatial drama in a house.
The staircase seems to have appealed to his interest in support and construc-
tion, as well as interesting him for its dramatic potential as the focal point of a
plan—these two aspects are exploited at Glenmore and Corbalton Hall as well
as at Townley (Plate 21).
In Townley Hall, the severe restraint of the exterior has been brought inside.
The single suggestion of interior columnar interest—a screen of two columns at
each end of the Library—was abandoned. There is little variation in room shape,
no spatial variety as one moves from one room to the next. Where the walls are
modelled, the emphasis lies on gentle, low relief and shallow recesses, rather than
on a rich use of deep niches.13 Apart from the drama of the rotunda there is a
restrained and antirhetorical approach to the planning. Just a year before the
first designs were made for Townley Hall, in 1793, Richard Morrison had pub-
lished his Useful and Ornamental Designs in Architecture. Here Morrison, who
later became a serious contender for some of the more important commissions
eventually given to Johnston,14 had given plans of houses of various pretensions
and scale. The grander houses had internal screens of columns, lobbies ending
in semi-circular apses, circular rooms straight from Gandon’s work on the
Parliament House, with deep niches scooped out from the intervals between
recessed columns. These designs represent the consciousness, on the part of a
contemporary Irish architect, of the Adamesque tradition so firmly rejected by
Johnston.
In some of the details of the decoration, too, there is an economy consistent
with the austerity of elevation and plan. The entrance hall (Plate 5), with its
heavy Greek fret, its Greek Doric chimney piece and the square coffering of the
11) Maurice Craig, Country Life, May 28th 1964 on Bellamont Forest, Co. Cavan.
12) Of this staircase, Hussey {op. cit.) wrote “I would dare to say there is nothing lovelier than
this rotunda in the Georgian architecture of the British Isles.” In comparing this rotunda
with Wyatt’s circular staircase in Devonshire House of 1811, it is tempting to suggest that
the Wyatt-Johnston relationship may have been, to some degree, mutually beneficial.
13) The very shallow recesses in the hall are also a feature of the hall in Garvey House. There
is a plan of Garvey House by Johnston in the I.A.R.A. Coll. PF2.
14) The Knight of Glin has drawn my attention to an interesting comment made in 1822 by
Morrison in a letter to Sir Charles Coote of Ballyfin: ” I beg your permission to observe
that my knowledge of this country and of the buildings executed in it, enables me to know
that with the exception of Mr. Johnston, my son and myself, there is not any architect in it,
in whose hands you could place your business with a prospect of such a result as you
would desire.”
685. Townley Hall, entrance hall.
696. Ballymakenny Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Librj.
707. Kells Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Libr.).
718. Rokeby Hall, entrance elevation.
ceiling, sets a serious tone which is echoed in the Library.15 The decoration of
the rotunda is a little richer, but the traditions of Adam, and of the currently
fashionable Michael Stapleton in Dublin, were rejected. The brittle elegance with
which Johnston had toyed in the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh has vanished,
never again to reappear in his work. The different decorative strains of this
rotunda are used together in an experimental but unsynthesized way. The ox-
head frieze, the criss-cross vaulting, the naturalism of the oak-leaf and acorn
moulding, the gauche draperies and lion heads, the lunettes with their high
relief,16 the wiry simplicity of the running vine band threaded through a simple
fret with acorns underneath—these are all exercises in different themes, com-
bined, but not fused into a very satisfactory whole.17 In this rotunda Johnston
15) The drawing-room ceiling in Townley Hall is remarkably similar to the dining room
ceiling in Castle Coole where economy had dictated a more restrained style than in the
Saloon. (Compare illustrations in Country Life, July 30 1948, Plate 4; and December 26
1936, Plate 8.)
16) Professor Mitchell, the present owner of the house, has pointed out to me that these
lunettes have been enlarged and were probably not made for their present position. They
are not unique in Johnston’s work. They resemble the plaques which decorate the exterior
of his own house in Eccles Street.
17) Many of these motifs appear together in the vault of William Chambers” Strand vestibule
of Somerset House.
729. Lucan House, entrance elevation.
was experimenting with these themes. Some, like the naturalistic oak motifs,
were to become almost inevitable in his interiors; others, like the ox-head frieze,
were never used again.
More important than the experiment with individual motifs was the way in
which he tried to solve the problem of applying ornament to large areas with a
controlled economy, which would give to the most opulent scheme the unosten-
tatious effect consistent with his own taste and personality. Rokeby Hall is
decorated very sparingly; so too is the Armagh Observatory. The only important
interior decorative scheme on which Johnston had worked before Townley Hall
was therefore that of the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh. In the Chapel and in
Townley Hall we see the experiments that within ten years of Townley Hall were
to develop into the maturity and assurance of St. George’s and the Bank (see
Plates 39, 40).
Townley Hall is a key work in Johnston’s career, and it may be used as an
illustration of many characteristics of his style, as seen not only in his classical
country houses but in some of his ecclesiastical and public buildings as well. The
austerity of the Townley elevations was first enunciated at Rokeby Hall. In 1820
in his letter to Brewer, Johnston says that from 1785 to 1794 he was employed
by Primate Robinson in “erecting” a country house and two churches, one at
7310. Rokeby Hall, ground floor plan (Nat. Libr.).
Ballymakenny and the other at Clonmore. It is clear from the context that the
house is Rokeby Hall, and this letter has encouraged the belief that Johnston
alone was responsible for the Hall and the two churches.18
The church at Clonmore is ruined, and can yield no evidence of authorship.
The church at Ballymakenny is more interesting. In the Murray Collection in
the National Library in Dublin, there are four drawings—a plan, a section and
two elevations—for Ballymakenny church as it was built,1″ but without date or
signature (Plate 6). The plan is headed “Plan of Ballymakenny Church.” They
18) John Betjeman, however, in The Pavilion (London, 1946, ed. M. Evans) described Bally-
makenny church as by Johnston but “probably from Coolcy’s designs.”
19) These drawings arc in the I.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2.
7410.—” GROUND-FLOOR PLAN FOR MR. VESEY’S HOUSE
AT LUCAN,” BY MICHAEL STAPLETON
The following notes in Stapledon’s writing have been trans-
cribed from a fainter duplicate :
The dotted lines in plan show the manner of the division of Bed-
chamber story.
The wall that forms the Oval room in parlour story is carried up no
higher than the first story, which leaves an open lobby from great stairs to
the wall at ir the same width as stairs—the light at the end is not very
strong as it is too great a distance from the Venetian window of stairs—a
sky-light would be a vast improvement.
I I. Lucan House, ground floor plan. Country Life.
are catalogued as drawings by Johnston.2″ In the same collection, however
(portfolio 17), there are photographs of drawings for a church at Kells, signed
by Cooley and dated 1778 (Plate 7). Judging from these photographs the drawing
style of the two sets of drawings is the same. Further, there is an almost exact
correspondence between the designs of the two steeples. It seems clear, therefore,
that the drawings for Ballymakenny are by Cooley. Johnston’s reference in 1820
to his share in the work for this church does less than justice to his master,
according to whose designs he completed Ballymakenny Church.
One consequence of the above is that one must question Johnston’s share in
the design of Rokeby Hall, which has always been attributed to him. Since it
would be his first country house, elements in Rokeby which are untypical in his
later work, for instance the engaged order on the facade, must be treated with
caution. The existence in the National Library in Dublin, however, of plans
20) Betjeman, op. cil., wrote of this drawing (Plate 6) “The drawing and design are almost
indistinguishable from the work of Thomas Cooley.”
7512. Farnham House (Lawr. Coll.).
previously unrecognized as plans for Rokeby and which are not by Johnston,21
indicate that architects other than Johnston were involved in the design.
The most interesting of these plans (none of which is signed, or dated and
none of which is in Johnston’s drawing style) is a set of plans unquestionably by
the same hand as a ground plan of Lucan House, Co. Dublin, built between
1773 and 1781 for Agmondisham Vesey.22 This plan is of unknown authorship,
but it has been suggested23 that itwas drawn by Michael Stapleton. The common
authorship of these plans suggests a comparison of the elevations of the two
houses.
The front elevations (Plates 8,9) share such features as a 2-3-2 window rhythm,
unmoulded openings in the first floor with a common sill threaded behind the
order, and an Ionic order, supporting a pediment, rising in the slightly projecting
centre block over the ground floor.
There are important differences, but they are all consistent differences between
the richly modelled and the flat. The high central block of Lucan, with its tall
engaged columns, was lowered at Rokeby; the columns became pilasters,
ground floor rustication was lowered to the basement, and the deep recesses of
the central ground floor were flattened out. Similar differences exist between the
plans (Plates 10, 11)—the niches of the hall at Lucan, otherwise similar to the
hall at Rokeby, were filled in; the oval projection on the rear elevation of Lucan
was also flattened out.
21) These drawings are in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 20.
22) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 31st January 1947; John Harris, Quarterly Bulletin of
the Irish Georgian Society, July-September 1965.
23) Catalogue of the l.A.D. Exhibition, 1965, No. 44.
7613. Cornmarket, Drogheda.
Now if an architect other than Johnston was responsible for the original
designs of Rokeby Hall, that architect would be Thomas Cooley, the architect
of Primate Robinson, for whom the house was built. This raises a slight prob-
lem, since among the multiplicity of architects whose names are connected with
Lucan House—Chambers, Stapleton, Stevens, Wyatt and Agmondisham Vesey
himself—the name of Cooley does not appear. At this point it is necessary to
mention Newtownmountkennedy House.24 Briefly, its plan is closely connected
with that of Lucan House; it was designed by James Wyatt in 1772; and it was
built by Cooley and Richard Johnston, a brother of Francis, around 1782.
Therefore it may be suggested that Rokeby Hall was far from being an original
idea of Johnston’s, and that original plans were made by Cooley (and possibly
by others).25 The plans of the ground floor and first floor are adaptations from
Wyatt’s plans for Newtownmountkennedy and from the related plan of Lucan
House. Johnston did “erect” Rokeby, as he said, but few details of the plan
can be his. The scheme for the entrance elevation, too, .he probably inherited,
but treated it with a feeling which was reaching towards the simplification
of Townley Hall. The entrance elevation of Rokeby Hall is, in fact, a neat
24) John Cornforth, Country Life, October 28th and November 11th, 1965.
25) A collection of drawings by Cooley which may throw light on this question has just
recently come to light. The drawings are in Caledon Castle, Co. Tyrone.
7714. Headfort House, suggested alterations for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
illustration of what an architect, tied to the basic scheme of Lucan House
and developing towards Townley Hall, might be expected to produce.26
The severity of exterior elevation which, inspired by Wyatt, began to emerge
at Rokeby and which received its definitive statement at Townley, is character-
istic of Johnston’s classical domestic work. The additions to Farnham House27
are varied in the ground floor (Plate 12) with semi-circular headed windows like
in the kitchen wing at Townley. The severity is relieved sometimes by tripartite
windows, as at Corbalton Hall,28 and sometimes by a doorway with a small
columnar frame as at Clown.2″ On the whole, however, these smaller classical
houses present a rather dull picture, and some, without the happy proportions
of Rokeby and Townley, anticipate Johnston’s later “penitentiary” style. Often
close at hand in his work is the “hardness” described by Craig/10 The dividing
line between Attic simplicity and this hardness was not always under control,
even in Charleville Forest, the most picturesque composition of this least pictur-
esque of architects. There, on the facades, between the corner towers, the relent-
less symmetry of Johnston establishes its claim over the picturesque demands of
his patron. The regular rectangular windows glare out from a facade which
‘shares the bleakness of Johnston’s classical houses, of his penitentiaries and even
of his General Post Office (Plate 24).
In the work of such a man we would expect to find, around the turn of the
century, a ready adoption of the appropriately austere forms of the Greek
Revival. And so it was, but to a limited degree. It is difficult to date accurately
26) Dr. Alastair Rowan has suggested to me that a consideration of the authorship of Rokeby
Hall might include a consideration of Ihe house and gate lodge of Annesbrooke, Duleek,
where several Johnston-like details can be seen.
27) Co. Cavan. Drawings for these additions, which were largely demolished in 1963, are in
the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802.
28) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Elias Corbally. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801-1807.
29) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Waller Dowdall. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
30) Maurice Craig, Dublin 1660-1860, p. 281.
78i. Kildare, suggested east elevation by Francis Johnston
the Greek Doric portico of Townley Hall—it appears in none of the dated
elevations31 in Dublin. It is unlikely to be much later than 1794, however, be-
cause during the years that Johnston was working at Townley, that is in the later
1790’s, he began to develop an interest in primitive orders and their suitability
to his evolving style of domestic architecture. In the hall in Slane Castle,:!2 for
instance, the columns are baseless, but have Tuscan capitals with an enriched
necking band. The real interest in the Slane hall is in the chimney pieces, where
baseless Greek Doric columns support an entablature where the frieze zone is
omitted, but with the guttae of the missing triglyphs remaining in the architrave.33
The Townley Hall work includes, besides the portico, Greek Doric columns in
the hall chimney piece, and columns of a Primitivist order on the kitchen wing
(Plate 2). After Townley Hall comes the set of porticoes designed for Farnham
House, Ballycurry House,34 and the Adjutant General’s Office.30 These porticoes
are all one-storey high with Doric columns, sometimes fluted, sometimes not. At
Corbalton Hall the portico is also one-storey high, but unusual in Johnston’s
domestic work36 in being Ionic. The columns are baseless. So we see, that despite
his interest in the Greek Revival, as witnessed in the precocious use of a Greek
31) Only one drawing in the I.A.R.A. Coll. shows Townley Hall with this Greek Doric
portico. It is an undated and unsigned drawing in PF 2.
32) Johnston’s work on Slane Castle was contemporary with his work on Townley Hall.
33) This order corresponds, detail for detail, with the order of the loggia surrounding three
sides of the Corn market in Drogheda (Plate 13) (behind the Market House, now the Court
House), where, however, the columns are unfluted. This market complex was built by
Johnston, and the conjectural date suggested by Betjeman (in The Pavilion), is 1788. The
building certainly looks later, and because of the similarity with the Slane chimneypieces,
a more likely date would be in the mid ’90’s. On this order. Dr. Maurice Craig has sug-
gested to me that it resembles a bit “the primitive style of Gandon as seen at Carriglass
and in some Gandon drawings in the Lowther Castle collection now in Carlisle.”
34) In Co. Wicklow. Rebuilding of an old house, for Charles Tottenham. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., Nat. Libr., PF 5, signed and dated 1805-1806.
35) In the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. Though a military structure, it is built
entirely in the style of a modest private house. It dates from c. 1805.
36) We can exclude the two-storey high Ionic portico added by Johnston to the Vice Regal
Lodge in Dublin, a building by its nature more public than private.
7915a. Killeen Castle, unexecuted plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.)
Doric portico at Townley Hall around 1794, and his later preoccupation with
the forms of the Greek Doric capital in his public work (see below), his adoption
of the forms of the Revival was quiet, unostentatious, and never monumental.
The Revival, of which he was an early exponent, became fully established during
his life, but the more established it became, the less Johnston used it in a con-
ventional way, and the more it became for him a style of allusion.
In another sphere of domestic building this quiet and scholarly interest in the
primitive orders can be seen at work. In 1799, when he first drew up plans for
alterations to the house of St. Catherine’s in Leixlip, Co. Kildare,37 he also made
a drawing38 for a dairy, with columns in a rustic order, covered in bark. The
following directions accompany the drawing:
“
. . . the plinths on which they (i.e. the columns) stand to be of stone, and
the Caps of Wood. The Entablature to be finished (in appearance) from the
hatchet, and coloured to match the bark of the pillars.”
Later, in 1802, he made a “sketch for dividing and finishing the Wood Cottage
at St. Catherine’s.”311 Here his primitivismwent a stage further—the roof was to
37) Described in the catalogue of the Murray Collection as “now demolished (built) for Mr.
Latouche.” The house still stands. As was pointed out by Dr. Alistair Rowan in his thesis
on the castle style (in the University Library, Cambridge) Johnston’s gothicmng altera-
tions were not built.
38) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder No. 5.
39) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder, No. 10.
8016. Killeen Castle, design for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
be supported by tree trunks without plinths or capitals, across which lay a simple
wooden board acting as architrave. Beyond this, primitivism could not go.40
As was appropriate for a disciple of Wyatt, Francis Johnston built in the
Castle Style. His activity in this style was quite intense in the first five years of
the nineteenth century, and falls quite naturally into three main groups. Firstly
there are commissions, where his brief was to gothicize and castellate an existing
classical house without making major structural additions. Secondly there were
commissions for considerable alterations and additions to classical houses—and
sometimes to genuine mediaeval structures. Finally there was the single com-
mission for Charleville Forest, a new scheme to be built from the ground up.
Johnston received only one such commission41 but its influence on later castle
style building in Ireland was greater than that of any other of his works in
this style.
In the first category there are only two projects—St. Catherine’s and Headfort
House at Kells, Co. Meath. Neither project was executed. At Headfort (Plate 14),
40) At least one later use of the rustic order by Johnston is known. In the I.A.D. exhibition
1965, the catalogue illustrated a plan and elevation for a seat at the Spa Well, Phoenix
Park—a tetrastyle temple in a rustic order. The drawing, in the possession of Mrs.
Desmond Forde, is signed and dated 1810.
41) It is not quite correct, as has been done elsewhere, to regard Glenmore, Co. Wicklow, as a
fresh commission. Drawings in the l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 make specific reference to the
original fabric which was to be included in the new, much larger, scheme.
8118. Markrcc Castle, view of south-east elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
for which drawings dated 1802 are in the National Library,42 Johnston provided
a rigidly symmetrical solution. Irish battlements enliven the roofline; chimney
stacks have been turned into turrets; and over the centre of the house rises an
Inverary motif; towers have been added to the corners of the house. Gothic
formulae—labels, shallow pointed arches—have been applied to the windows,
but Johnston’s Headfort stubbornly remains a large classical country house that
has been prettified in a castle style.
At St. Catherine’s the following year Johnston suggested a genuinely prettier
solution.43 Again, gothic formulae were applied, but even less substantial addi-
tions were proposed than in Headfort. An elegant gateway joining the house to
a little chapel to the north gives the east front of the design (Plate 15) as drawn,
an attractive asymmetry. However, in the other elevations—the main entrance
elevation and the long southern elevation overlooking the Liffey—Johnston
made insistent demands on regularity and symmetry. On the southern facade
these are disturbed by the projection from the side elevation of the oval bay.44
The regularity of the window levels is disturbed by the lancets in the “towers,”
but again Johnston let St. Catherine’s remain clearly a classical house, altered
in a very routine and insubstantial way.
42) l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3.
43) As well as drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2. there are two elevations in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 16.
44) This is a recurring feature of Johnston’s designs that the symmetry of complete facades
is perfect, if we ignore what may project slightly from other facades. It appears at Killeen,
Glenmore and Markree as well as at St. Catherine’s. It is a relaxed symmetry, as distinct
from a more abstract type which might apply to the plan considered as a whole.
8319. Slane Castle, proposed elevation by James Gandon (Nat. Libr.).
The major works in the second category are on Killeen Castle,45 Markree,46
and Glenmore.47 Johnston’s early, unexecuted designs for Killeen are interest-
ing. There is a freedom and an informality of plan (Plate 15a) which appears
elsewhere in his work; the attempt not simply to preserve the symmetry of the
exterior but to introduce a symmetry which the original mediaeval castle never
possessed is also typical. But the deep niches of the Library come as a surprise,
and the informality of plan is brought to far greater degrees than anywhere
else. Johnston liked a freedom in plan and he liked the large sweep of ample
curves to play a part in the plan—one thinks of the half elliptical bedrooms of
Corbalton Hall and of Markree; but the play with irregular room shapes, with
circles, with ten sided figures and even with piano-shaped rooms is parallelled
nowhere else in his work. These designs were not executed.
The design as built exploits the projections of the original facade, but only
slightly (Plate 16). The chances these projections provided for varying the skyline
45) Co. Meath; for Lord Fingall; Drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802
and alternative designs in 1803-4. Later enlarged by Shiel.
46) Or Mercury Castle, Co. Sligo, for Joshua Edward Cooper; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 3, signed and dated 1802-4.
47) Co. Wicklow; for Francis Synge; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 and PF 14. Now
in ruins.
8420. Glenmore Castle, Co. Wicklow, design for south-east elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
in a picturesque way were ignored. Johnston started out here in Killeen with
an original mediaeval castle and finished with a structure that almost looks as
if it could be a cleverly gothicized classical house. The Romance of the castle
was killed. The logical, serious, painstaking Johnston had no control over the
powerful association of ideas, so important in the appreciation of the castle style.
At Markree, Johnston built large additions in the castle style to an originally
classical house (Plate 17). The long south-east front (Plate 18) repeats the basic
scheme of Slane Castle, but the Slane as designed by James Gandon (Plate 19)
rather than by Wyatt. The long facade is organised just as at Slane, but it has
been flattened out, with the central semicircular tower replaced by a more gentle
and a shallower curve. The pointed arches of the ground floor of the central
tower18 echo Slane, and the circular openings below echo an alternative design
by Gandon for Slane.40 The skyline, though enlivened with Irish battlements,
has been made more even than in Slane and this, together with the flattening
of the facade and the discontinuity of floor levels and windows, makes of this
main elevation of Markree a much less powerfully massed whole than Gandon’s
scheme. Markree, of course, lacks the dramatic situation of Slane overlooking
a sharp fall of ground, sweeping down to the Boyne; but essentially it was
Johnston’s treatment of the theme,50 with his reluctance to use pronounced
vertical or horizontal projections, which denied Markree the drama of Gandon’s
design.
48) Johnston’s original design was for three pointed arches in the ground floor of the central
“tower”; only the middle opening was built arched.
49) Illustrated in catalogue of I.A.D. exhibition 1965, No. 68; drawing in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 2. These openings were built square, at Markree.
50) The relationships between Markree and Slane Castle, and between RokebyHall and Lucan
House, have some features in common. In both cases Johnston’s houses are more static,
less richly modelled than the earlier buildings.
8522. Charleville Castle, Co. Offaly. Country Life,
The relentless symmetry of the separate elevations of Glenmore (Plates 20,
21), the shallow projections—this time in the form of canted bays as in the
parlour at Killeen, the narrow corner towers as at Headfort, the central accent
enlivened with Irish battlements as at Markree, and the classical proportions
of solid to vofd in the flat intermediate wings, all these can be seen as predictable
in a Johnston castle. The refusal at Markree to fuse the potentially powerful
forms into a forcefully massed composition became, at Glenmore, a failure to
synthesise the masses into satisfying elevations: the south-east front of Glenmore
can be seen as an inverted Markree-Slane theme, with a polygonal projection
of three bays in the centre of the facade separated by flat intermediate wings of
three bays from circular corner towers. The corner towers and central motif rise
up above the level of the neighbouring bays but this variation of level is com-
promised by the intervening chimney stacks. The interiors at Glenmore were
classical, and the broad sweep of the curved staircases of Townley Hall and
Corbalton Hall was repeated. Otherwise the plan is uneventful and informal and,
like the elevations, a little dull. The bleakness which Johnston chose to impart
to the elevations he imparted even to the surrounding landscape in this drawing.
He was not fair to the country-side around the Devil’s Glen: looking at the
house, one feels that he may not have been entirely fair to Francis Synge either.
At first sight Charleville Forest, built for the Earl of Charleville from 1801
onwards,51 is spectacularly different from Johnston’s other castle style houses.
The entrance elevation (Plates 22, 23) shows a very marked asymmetry. The
roofline develops the Inverary tower motif suggested for Headfort House, while
the round north-east corner tower, a little self-consciously, makes a determined
bid for irregularity. The main block of the house is nearly square in plan, with
a tower at each corner—square towers at the corners of the rear elevation, and
on the entrance front a broad circular tower on the left corner, and on the right
51) Drawings for Charleville Forest are in the l.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
See Mark Girouard, Country Life, 27 September 1962.
a 723. Charleville Castle, view of entrance elevation. Country Life.
an octagonal one. From this octagonal tower runs out a lower range of buildings
—chapel, kitchens, offices—on a diagonal axis. “Ore-like in its sprawl, the char-
acter of the house was forbidding, even cruel; and in Irish architecture this was
entirely new.”62
A letter from Lady Louisa Conolly to Lady Charleville dated November 8,
1800,53 mentions the very considerable part which the patron played in the
design of this castle. Her statement, however, that he had “planned it all him-
self” is unlikely to refer to the castle as built. Johnston’s drawings date from the
following year, and throughout the building can be seen Johnston’s attempts to
assert himself over Charleville’s demands which were basically foreign to his
nature as an architect. The buildings beyond the chapel on the diagonal wing—
the offices—are quite symmetrical. The elevations of the main block (apart from
the entrance front) are, apart from the corner towers, as symmetrical, regular
52) Rowan, op.cit.
53) This letter is quoted in Girouard, op.cit. “1 am very glad to hear that you have begun
your Castle . . . and Lord Tullamoore I am sure will enjoy it much having planned it all
himself.
K
8824. Charleville Castle, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr).
and austere as any elevation of Townley (Plate 24). Even with the corner towers,
the rear elevation is entirely symmetrical.
Inside, the details of plumbing, joinery and decoration are entirely Johns-
tonian. Water which is collected from the roof is piped to lavatories; there are
open fan shapes in the window reveals,54 gently convex chimney breasts,°5 crisply
carved oak leaves and acorns on the chimneypieces, plaster vaulting in the pas-
sages leading from the centrally placed bedroom hall which rises through the
first and second storeys and is top-lit by a dome in the Inverary tower. The
fan-vaulting in the great Gallery anticipates the vaulting of the aisles of the
Chapel Royal. The design for the chimneypiece in this Gallery is taken from a
door in Magdalen College.50 Further, the plaster moulding on the ribs of the
small first floor room in the large circular tower reappears in the vaults of the
Board Room and Governor’s Room in the Bank of Ireland.
That many of the decorative details in Charleville should reappear in the
Bank, in the Chapel Royal or in St. George’s is not surprising since these works
54) Dr. Maurice Craig has pointed out that these characteristic fan shapes occur in Kilcarty
by Thomas Ivory.
55) As in Armagh Observatory.
56) This was pointed cut by Girouard, op.cit.
8925. Primate’s Chapel, Armagh, design for interior of west end, by Thomas Cooley (Nat.
Libr,).
90for interior of west end, by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
91Primate”s Chapel, view of west end.
are roughly contemporary with Charleville.67 But the fact that some such details
can be shared by buildings as stylistically varied as these is more noteworthy.
This property of versatility was pointed out by Dr. Maurice Craig.68 The crisp
naturalism of the oak leaf mouldings in St. George’s or Townley Hall is entirely
in keeping with the moods of the Dublin church and of the Louth mansion. Yet
it attains a new appropriateness in Charleville Forest, not only to the Gothic
character of the house, but to the site of the ancient oak forests of Offaly on
which the house stands.
Part of the significance of Johnston’s castle style houses lay in the fact that
all of them, except Glenmore, had fully Gothic interiors. As with the Greek
Revival, it was not Johnston who initiated the fashion in Ireland, but it was he
who helped to popularize the style. Alistair Rowan has shown the importance
of Wyatt’s Library in Slane Castle for this development of the idea of a Gothic
domestic interior.50 fn Slane we can see, not only the origin of the idea, but,
I believe, the specific source for many of Johnston’s decorative motifs. The
abundance of plaster heads in Slane immediately recalls the Chapel Royal and
Killeen Castle. Further, the low dado, the oak leaf and acorn mouldings, and
57) Charleville, begun in 1801, was not finished until 1812.
58) M. Craig, op.cit., p. 282.
59) Rowan, op.cit., p. 238.
9228. Primate’s Chapel, view of east end of ceiling.
the kind of bubbling-seaweed carving all lead back to indicate another aspect
of the profound influence of James Wyatt on Johnston, and through him on
Irish architecture.
Johnston’s castle style phase was short.60 Ironically, the most successful and
influential building of this period—Charleville—was the one where his person-
ality, though evident, was obscured by the demands of the owner, demands
which Johnston could not have been happy to satisfy. The romance of the castle
style was foreign to his cautious nature, and it was the last experiment he made
in domestic architecture. His abandonment of the style when work on Pakenham
Hall finished in 1810 reflects not so much a rejection of a style which he realized
as unsuitable, but rather a slackening in the domestic side of his practice. For
in 1805 he had been appointed Architect of the Board of Works and Civil
Buildings, and the bulk of his work was to be centred in Dublin from that date,
until his architectural activity began to decline with the rise of the General Post
Office, sometime before 1820.
60) In 1806 he made alterations to Pakenham Hall (now known as Tullynally House), Co.
Westmeath, for the Earl of Longford. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 6. Later additions
are by James Shiel and Richard Morrison. In 1814 he suggested additions and castellations
to Kilruddery House, Co. Wicklow, for the Earl of Meath. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 6. These suggestions were not adopted, and are of interest only as extreme instances of
how far Johnston sometimes went in the search for symmetry. In PF 19 there are plans by
Johnston and Murray for unimportant extensions to Howth Castle, in 1825.
9329. Primate’s Chapel, pilaster capital.
2. CHURCH ARCHITECTURE
When Francis Johnston succeeded Cooley in 1784 as architect to Primate
Robinson, his first task was to complete the buildings which Cooley had begun
and left unfinished at his death. He erected the tower and spire over the crossing
of the Cathedral in Armagh and an obelisk on Knox’s Hill in the grounds of the
Primate’s Palace. He also decorated the interior of the Primate’s Chapel, a little
temple by Cooley with a tetrastyle Ionic portico standing beside the Palace.
Some very fine stone details on the exterior of this Chapel, reflected in the very
high quality of the stone details in Cooley’s Royal Exchange in Dublin, suggest
that one of Johnston’s important debts to Cooley was a careful and meticulous
attention to stonework.
As can be seen from Cooley’s designs for the interior (Plate 25), Johnston was
tactful in his approach and mindful of Cooley’s original intentions. There is a
drawing1 in the National Library, signed by Johnston, and dated 1785 (Plate 26),
which shows the interior of the chapel largely as it exists today (Plate 27). It is
a superbly executed drawing,2 and its phenomenal minuteness of detail shows
1) This drawing is in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, Armagh Palace folder, No. 4.
2) It must, however, be admitted that the light falls from the left. The only windows in the
drawing are on the right. This photograph conveys none of the remarkably detailed quality
of the drawing.
9430. St. Peter’s Church, Drogheda, view of steeple (Lawr. Coll.)
9531. Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle, view of north elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
the exacting standards of the architect who demanded, and obtained, similar
standards from his craftsmen. Structural changes from Cooley’s design are few.
The windows have been changed from the left wall to the right, the gallery has
been given a curved rear wall and the entablature is carried in Johnston’s design
continuously over the gallery. Panelling has been added to the walls which thus
become clearly divided into zones—the zone of pews, and raised above this, the
zone articulated with pilasters.3 The gallery balusters have become attenuated
and graceful. Draperies, always a favourite with Johnston, decorate the gallery.
The ceiling has become coffered, with rosettes in the coffers; and a delicate frieze
which almost looks as if it might have been designed by Michael Stapleton,
surrounds the whole room (Plate 28).
The chapel interiors show two decorative strains. On the one hand is the effete
and rather standard frieze, and the equally routine formalism of the capitals
(Plate 29). On the other hand is the rectangular sobriety of the ceiling (Plate 28),
with the petals of its rosettes curling up at the ends according to vegetable laws
rather than the laws of plaster. For the first strain, Johnston had no time. He
was more interested in experiment than in formula. He rarely used enriched
friezes and in the General Post Office, when he decorated the frieze over the
portico, he turned the traditional anthemion frieze into a knotted, rather wild
and muscular affair. His real interest lay in the development of the second strain,
and in the use of a crisp naturalism, sparingly used, and circumscribed by hard
3) This division of the walls into zones, with the pilasters rising from above the seated com-
munity, can be seen as the Bank Cash Office scheme in embryo.
9632. Chapel Royal, view of east end.
9733. St. Andrew’s Church, Dublin, plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
geometrical shapes. In the rotunda of Townley, there is the formula of the
ox-head frieze; but there are the oak leaf garlands bent into semi-ellipses, and
there is the vine running through a primitive Greek fret. In many ways, the
Townley rotunda is more experimental than the Primate’s Chapel, but both look
forward to the full resolution of his style in the early years of the nineteenth
century.
Johnston’s supervision of work originally designed by Cooley at Ballyma-
kenny Church has already been mentioned, and a close dependence on Cooley’s
style is evident later in Johnston’s work on the steeples at Slane in 1797; St.
Andrew’s, Dublin and St. Catherine’s, Tullamore. Johnston’s activity in de-
signing steeples for churches4 is probably an expression of his own interest in
bell-ringing. (To house his own collection of bells, he built a tower, now demol-
ished, behind his house in Dublin.) In the Public Library at Armagh there is an
interesting collection of drawings by Cooley, dated 1773 and 1774, for churches.
No specific parishes or locations for these churches are mentioned, and it appears
4) John Betjeman, in The Pavilion, lists as a “doubtful attribution” to Johnston the spire of
Lismore Cathedral. The Dean of Lismore, Very Rev. Gilbert Mayes, M.A., has pointed
out to me, however, that the spire was the work of the brothers Paine of Cork, in 1827/8.
The Paines were pupils of Nash, and enjoyed a considerable practice in the south of
Ireland.
9834. St. George’s Church, Dublin, view from Temple Street.
9935. St. George’s Church, view from Eccles Street.
that the collection of designs was made as a sample book, with no particular
commissions in mind. The plans, like those of the churches of Ballymakenny
and Clonmore, are plain, rectangular, with towers on the west ends. The eleva-
tions of these towers, some with spires, others without, consist largely of assem-
blies of standard elements in different combinations—pointed windows, labels,
rectangular openings with almond-shaped windows, circular elements, coats of
arms, corner buttresses ending in pinnacles, battlements. This dull and un-
imaginative method of combining standard motifs in such a way appears often
in Johnston’s steeples, even in the very important steeple of St. Andrew’s in
Dublin. From one who had looked at the Gothic of the English cathedrals, and
from one capable of the refined elegance of the St. George’s steeple, more might
have been expected than a routine reliance on Cooley’s rather impoverished style.
The steeple of St. Peter’s church in Drogheda (Plate 30), of about 1790 is
slightly exceptional, in being more experimental than his other designs. Here he
10036. St. George’s Church, ground plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
10137. St. George’s Church, view under gallery.
put a spire on a tower whose details are classical rather than Gothic. The small
deep semicircular openings repeat a theme of one of the lower storeys of the
tower of the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital in Dublin. The circular element with
side brackets supporting a pediment comes from Gibbs° as, perhaps, do the per-
forations in the spire. The base of the spire itself recalls the base of the spire of
the church at Hillsborough, Co. Down,6 a favourite haunt of Johnston because
of his interest in bell-ringing.
Many of Johnston’s churches have fared badly down through the years.
Clonmore is ruined. The church at Arklow, and the Roman Catholic churches
at Kells and at Drogheda have been demolished. His designs for the church at
Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath, were altered, and a cheaper church built. His
work in St. Andrew’s in Dublin, burnt in the middle of the nineteenth century,
is the most tragic loss; but his two other masterpieces, the Chapel Royal in
Dublin Castle and St. George’s, not only stand but are, happily, immaculately
preserved.
5) Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, e.g. Plate 23.
6) Alistair Rowan, op.cit., p. 93, suggests that this “very fine example of Georgian Gothic
. . . unique in Ireland” may be by Sanderson Miller.
10238. St. George’s Church, view of west end.
The foundation stone of the Chapel Royal7 was laid by the Lord Lieutenant
on 15 February, 1807, and the chapel was opened on Christmas Day, 1814.8 The
exterior of the building (Plate 31) is restrained and not unlike part of the side
elevation of Magdalen College viewed from the Quad, if the projecting lower
storey—in fact part of the Quad cloister—is projected back onto the flat side
facade of the chapel. The stone used is a dark limestone and the dimensions of
the plan were confined to those of the original chapel. The plan is basically
rectangular—inside, the chancel projects beyond the ends of the aisles, between
offices and sacristies which on the outside can be seen, in fact, to protrude beyond
the east end of the chancel. The long side elevations are each divided into six
bays by buttresses ending in pinnacles. Each bay is of two storeys over a base-
ment, with tall windows above lighting the galleries.9 On the pinnacles and under
the labels of the windows are heads sculpted in stone, not out of keeping with
the Gothic character of the whole. There is a suggestion, however, of something
7) The chapel was re-consecrated in 1943 as a Catholic Church dedicated to the Most Holy
Trinity.
8) Johnston’s own description of the Chapel Royal was printed by Patrick Henchy in the
Dublin Historical Record, December 1949-February 1950.
9) The tracery in these windows strongly resembles that of the Magdelen Chapel windows.
103St, George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
unexpected about to happen in the large full-blooded heads of St. Peter over the
north door, of Brian Boru10 over the east door, and in the three-quarter length
figures of Faith, Hope and Charity over the east window.11 The whole effect of
the grey severity of the exterior, however, does not prepare one for the exuber-
ance inside. The entrance to the church is from a low, narrow vestibule on the
west, above which is an upper vestibule opening into the gallery. No grander
approach from the west could easily have been planned, since the space was
limited by the proximity of the Record Tower.12
The interior measures 73 feet by 35 feet, and is divided, despite its narrow-
ness, into a nave and side aisles (Plate 32). The aisles contain a gallery which
continues around the west end where it holds an organ. The ceiling of the nave
is groin vaulted, and over the gallery the ceilings of the aisles have a rich fan
10) Brian Boru was the first High King of Ireland. He died in 1014.
11) All the exterior figure carving, and the plaster figures inside, are by Edward Smyth and
his son John. The stucco ceilings inside are by George, the son of Michael Stapleton, who
decorated Belvedere House. Michael Stapleton died in 1801 and should not be confused—
as sometimes happens—with his son whose style in stucco, seen in the Chapel Royal
(and probably in the somewhat similar Killeen Castle) is totally different.
12) Towards the end of his work on the chapel, Johnston recased the upper storeys of the
Record Tower, and added battlements. For engravings of this work, and his lay-out of the
interiors see the Reports from the Commissioners . . . respecting the Public Records of
Ireland 1810-1815.
10440. St. George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
vaulting with pendants, as if the ceiling of the Charleville Gallery had been con-
tracted and squeezed into the confined narrowness of the galleries here. The
ceilings under the galleries are laid out in tracery, whose lines agree with the
lines of the fan vaulting of the upper ceilings, but projected onto a flat ground.
The pendants are more compressed, and their terminations are decorated with
cherubs’ heads.
The general effect of this interior is one of pomp and richness, a richness of
both colour and form. The pale plasterwork enriched with gold, and the darkness
of the richly carved oak meet in a light softened by coloured glass. Plaster mould-
ings rise in a frothy spray in ogee shapes over the pointed arches of the nave.
Everywhere are plaster corbel heads of kings, evangelists and saints. The glass
panels of the side windows are filled with the arms of Viceroys. The wooden
gallery fronts, too, carry arms, as does the panelling of the chancel; and below
these arms, running all around the galleries, is a carved wooden band of “bub-
bling seaweed” pattern which appears in the gallery of Charleville. The consist-
ency of the decorative scheme is carefully planned—the heraldry in glass and
wood, the heads in carved wood and plaster, and the foliage in glass and plaster
and wood—these themes culminated in the pulpit, originally placed high in the
centre of the east end, raising the preacher to the level of the gallery where the
10541. Daly’s Club House and Parliament House, from the engraving by R. Havell, after
T. S. Roberts, c. 1815 (National Gallery of Ireland).
pew of the archbishop faced that of the Lord Lieutenant.13 The pulpit was central
to the decorative programme of the whole chapel. On it, the carver, Richard
Stewart, combined episcopal arms with naturalistically carved foliage, and set it
on a shaft terminating in a cluster of four heads,14 a clear allusion to the clustered
cherubs’ heads on the pendants below the galleries. But here, the heads are those
of the four evangelists and thus the pulpit—placed in the chancel over which
rises a vault whose ribs spring at each corner from the head of an evangelist—
acted as a focal point of the chapel, and with a thoughtful allusiveness perfected
the consistency of the whole scheme. It is a pity to see here, and in St. George’s,
such thoughtfulness frustrated.
This consistency must be seen underlying the apparently undisciplined frivolity
of the Chapel Royal, when we attempt to place this interior in Johnston’s other-
wise more controlled decorative work. It is also important to acknowledge that,
unlikely though it may seem, Johnston in the Chapel Royal was trying to be
authentically Gothic. Firstly, it appears from the diary he kept of his English
tour in 1796,15 that the qualities he admired most in Gothic architecture were its
lightness and elegance rather than its structural expressiveness. At Gloucester
Cathedral, he admired
“the lightness and true proportion of the Buttresses, the neatness of the belt
courses and elegance of the Gothic screen and pinnacles of the Tower. . . .
“
13) The pulpit has been moved to St. Werburgh’s Church, Dublin.
14) The pulpit is illustrated in H. Wheeler and M. Craig, The Dublin Citv Churches of the
Church of Ireland, Dublin 1948, Plate XVII.
15) The dfery is now in the Armagh County Museum.
106Salisbury was looked at in the same way—he admired the “height, lightness and
elegance of execution” of the Cathedral Tower. The Cathedral itself “is a beauti-
ful light gothick structure with a just uniformity of style in every part.” These
are the only characteristics of Gothic which he mentions.16 He could hardly have
been unaware of the structural expressiveness of Gothic, but his non-Gothic
work shows a repeated avoidance of becoming explicit about actual means of
support for such things as stairs and galleries. He was clearly therefore unlikely
to feel at home with anything but the decorative details of Gothic.
It seems then that he sought to achieve a Gothic effect by the multiplication
of such details as he considered “correct”. His friend Brewer,17 spoke of the basic
seriousness of Johnston’s efforts in the Chapel Royal in describing it as “the
most elaborate effort made in recent years to revive the antient ecclesiastical
style of building.” He went on to say that
“
. . . The plans of the groined ceiling, and of various parts in the detail . . .
are derived from the most highly ornamented divisions of York Cathedral.”
This seriousness of Johnston’s intentions is further confirmed by early com-
mentators on the Gothic Revival. Thomas Bell18 rather surprisingly wrote in 1828
“The revival of this taste in Ireland has been accomplished, or at least the
correct ideas of it which now prevail in this country, have been principally
introduced . . . (by) the architect of the Castle chapel.”19
Whatever we may think of the “correctness” of Johnston’s Chapel Royal, it
seems that he wished it to be correct and authentic. It fails to be this, but re-
mains, with its plaster ceilings, its Virtues reclining in billowing drapery over the
east window, and its display of heraldry, the most intimate of his interiors, and
precious evidence of the kind of surroundings in which the Viceregal Court felt
itself closest to God.
Somewhat similar to the Chapel Royal but much less elaborate was Johnston’s
chapel of the Foundling Hospital20 described in 181821 as “lately finished.” The
same source mentions both its “uncommon elegance” and bad acoustics.22 Other
Gothic churches such as the church at Kells and St. Peter’s Roman Catholic
church in Drogheda, both demolished, were of minor importance. St. Catherine’s
in Tullamore, completed in 1815, was slightly more ambitious. The florid Chapel
Royal style was not appropriate for this* country church, so superbly sited on a
hill overlooking the town. The interior, with its Latin cross plan, its nave with
clerestory, and side aisles is plain and a little dull. For the tower Johnston fell
back on the standard Cooley-inspired solution, and one is inclined to think that,
16) In London on 10th April, he wrote that he went to Westminster Abbey “which was
open” (!) “took a glance at the monuments and thence to Westminster bridge which
I looked at for some time.”
17) J. N. Brewer, Beauties of Ireland 1825-6, vol. 1, p. 63.
18) Thomas Bell, Gothic Architecture in Ireland, 1828, p. 249.
19) Perhaps not unnaturally, Johnston wrote to Thomas Mulvany on 25th February, 1828 that
he was assured of the fidelity and accuracy of Bell’s work. The letter is quoted by Bell,
p. 256.
20) The Foundling Hospital is now St. Kevin’s Hospital: the chapel has been demolished.
21) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, History of Dublin, 1818, p. 585.
22) Direct influence of Johnston’s Chapel Royal was seen in William Farrell’s closely similar
Chapel of the Female Orphan House, built in 1818-19. This has been recently demolished.
10742. Armagh Observatory, view of entrance elevation.
on the whole, St. Catherine’s is a reflection of Johnston’s loss of interest in
provincial commissions (apart from country houses) after his move to Dublin.
The major loss in Johnston’s ecclesiastical architecture was the destruction by
fire in 1860 of St. Andrew’s church in Dublin. In May 1793, a committee was
appointed to carry out rebuilding of the church, which had become ruinous.23
The architect was a John Hartwell, and it was found possible to use part of the
original walls in the new structure, thus preserving the unusual elliptical plan.
The church was used by the Members of the adjoining Parliament House, and
in 1799, with little perception of what was to befall the Irish Parliament in the
following year, they voted £ 1,000
“to enable the parish to complete the repair of the church, and to make
proper accommodation in it for the reception of the Members of the House
of Commons and their Speaker.”24
In 1800 Johnston succeeded Hartwell as architect and worked on the church
until it was re-opened in 1807. This work, his first major commission in Dublin,
included the arrangement of the interior and the design for a gothic tower
(which was never built).25
23) An interesting account of the work on St. Andrew’s from 1793 onwards is given in J T
Gilbert’s A History of the City of Dublin, Vol. 3, pp. 310 ff.
24) Gilbert, op.cit.
25) Illustrated in Betjeman, op.cit., p. 31.
10843. Armagh Observatory, view of rear elevation.
The exteriors of St. Andrew’s26 were of little interest. The steeple was dull, and
the other elevations, though showing Johnstonian details, show little individual
intervention on Johnston’s part in walls which had probably been built by
Hartwell. The “very splendidly decorated” interiors,27 however, were Johnston’s
own, and on these he lavished his invention, his care and his controlled richness
of decoration. The elliptical plan (Plate 33) measured 80 ft. by 60 ft. and a
gallery surrounded the entire church, which was lit, according to the plans in the
National Library, by four windows in the gallery.28 Now it appears that the
church was, nonetheless, so well lit that special screens had to be placed over
the windows to reduce the light.29 Some other light source must be suggested,
and it seems reasonable to suppose that the church was lit by a large oval lantern
in the roof. No drawings in the Murray Collection describe this explicitly; but
one plan,30 showing the seating arrangement, shows a marked shadow cast by the
gallery on the floor beneath, which could only be explained by top-lighting.
26) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 4.
27) Gilbert, op.cit., p. 311.
28) The plans show a window at each end of the major axis, and another two, both on the same
side of the ellipse, with the organ between them. St. George’s, too, is lit only by windows
in the gallery.
29) Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 10.
30) PF 4, St. Andrew’s folder, No. 1, top sheet.
109The gallery arrangement showed a reluctance to display the means of support
which can be seen too in the solution adopted in St. George’s. The beams
supporting the gallery were not themselves supported at their extremities by
columns, but were cantilevered on columns set close to the walls. It is recorded,31
further, that these columns were
“not reconcilable to any known order, yet do great credit to the taste of the
architect, Mr. Francis Johnston, who seems to have taken the idea from
Mr. Denon’s drawings of Egyptian ruins.”
45. Bank of Ireland, Dublin, ground floor plan, 1855.
A translation of Baron Dominique Vivant Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la
Haute Egypte had been published by J. Shea in Dublin in 1803, only one year
after the original publication in Paris.32 This detail has led some commentators
to think that the whole church was decorated internally in the Egyptian style.
The drawings in the National Library contradict this interpretation, as indeed
does the architect’s character. Large scale innovations and experiments were
eschewed; it was quite in keeping with his sense of what was proper to confine
his precocious interest in the Egyptian Revival to scholarly allusions in the
orders.
31) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, op.cit., pp. 510-513.
32) A copy of this edition is in the National Library, Dublin.
I l l46. Bank of Ireland, West Hall.
Brewer speaks33 of the interior as being “irresistably affecting,” and so indeed
it must have been, with light streaming down from above onto the pulpit which
was placed, not in the centre of the church, but half-way along a minor axis
of the ellipse so that it rose up towards the gallery which surrounded it. Directly
behind this pulpit, in the gallery, was the organ, and the pews were arranged
so as to converge to this focal point of organ and pulpit. This must have been
one of Johnston’s most powerful interiors, where he was able to join his love
of ample curves, with the excitement of top-lighting so as to develop the drama
of the Townley rotunda to the solemn ends of the traditional Calvinism of the
Irish liturgy.
Rising on a gentle hill on the north side of the city closing the vistas along
Temple Street (Plate 34), Eccles Street (Plate 35), (and along the later Hardwicke
Street) is the church of St. George’s. Johnston began work on the church in
33) J. N. Brewer, op.cit.. Vol. 1, pp. 122-126.
11247. Bank of Ireland, Chimney piece in West Hall, probably executed by Thomas Kirk from
Francis Johnston’s designs.
1802.34 With a terrace of houses laid out in a crescent plan in front of it,35 St.
George’s takes full advantage of its free-standing situation. Like the Chapel
Royal, it is maintained in impeccable condition, but here also, a re-arrangement
of the east end36 has destroyed some of the gentle drama of the original interior.
The exterior of the ground floor is rusticated. The side elevations, like the
entrance facade, are of two storeys, of five bays. The upper windows of the sides
and of the end bays of the front are tall, semicircular-headed windows, while
34) In the Murr. Coll., PF 4, there are drawings for St. George’s signed by Richard Morrison:
an elevation was illustrated in the catalogue of the I.A.D. Exhibition, no. 89. Grouped with
these in the same portfolio are undated designs for unnamed churches by Henry Aaron
Baker and S. Smith. The Murr. Coll. catalogue describes these and Morrison’s designs,
as “competition drawings” for St. George’s.
35) This crescent plan may have its origin in the crescent of Beresford Place, laid out shortly
before 1790, as a setting for Gandon’s newly erected Custom House.
36) The east end was rearranged c. 1880. Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., Plate XIX, reproduce
an old photograph of the church before alterations.
11348. Richmond House of Correction (Richmond or City Bridewell), Cease to Do Evil Gate,
design by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
11449. Richmond Penitentiary, view of entrance.
those below have segmental tops. A large tetrastyle Ionic portico occupies the
middle of the entrance elevation and supports a pediment behind which rises,
to a height of two hundred feet, the tall steeple which is derived from that of
Gibbs’ St. Martin-in-the-Fields.37 The clock storey and the storey above corre-
spond closely to those of Gibbs’ steeple, but otherwise there are great differences.
St. George’s contrasts the sure succession of the different levels—each rising
smoothly from the one beneath—with the nervous energy of the cornice levels
which cast narrow bands of dark shadow on the white Portland stone. Johnston
made this steeple more substantial than that of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, with
its many perforations, and he modelled this solidity with greater attention to
chiaroscuro than did Gibbs. This is particularly noticeable in the lowest storey
of the Dublin steeple where the columns are deeply recessed into the corners.
The entrance door gives onto a tripartite narthex (Plate 36), in plan not unlike
similar vestibules in Gibbs’ Book38 and similar, too, to the narthex suggested in
Richard Morrison’s designs for St. George’s. Under the spire is an octagonal
vestibule with deep niches, a more strongly modelled space than anything else
in Johnston’s work. In the space on each side of this octagon is a delicate
elliptical staircase. Beyond this narthex, the interior of the church, unlike what
has been described so far, is entirely Johnstonian in feeling, and owes nothing
37) Apart from the design being available in Gibbs’ Book of Architecture, it appears that
Johnston was impressed with Gibbs’ work on his visit to London in 1796. His diary records
for the IOth April “In my walk I stop’d to look at many Churches . . . particularly St. Mary
le Strand and St. Martins in the fields.”
38) e.g. Gibbs, op.cit., Plate 2.
11550. Bank of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
to Gibbs. The interior measures 84 feet by 60 feet and is unusual in being wider
than it is long: as in St. Andrew’s, whose dimensions were very similar, the
longer axis is transversal. Other features recall St. Andrew’s. The body of the
church is very airy and bright, with windows only in the gallery. (In St. George’s,
however, there is a flat ceiling with no top-lighting.) The lower windows seen
on the exterior of the building light, not the interior of the church, but a low
narrow corridor which surrounds three sides of the interior (not the east end),
on the inner wall of which the gallery is cantilevered (Plate 37). Even the doors
leading from this corridor into the body of the church are concealed in the
careful panelling of this inner wall (Plate 38). Here again, Johnston showed
himself reluctant to become explicit in the support of the gallery and one is
11651. Bank, of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
immediately reminded of his remarks on Covent Garden Theatre. He wrote
“This Theatre tho’ smaller is in my opinion superior to that in Drury Lane
both in style of finishing and in the convenience of seeing and hearing, the
Gallerys or Box ranges all hang without support, which gives an elegance
of appearance (when fill’d with Company) not to be described.”39
His liberal use of cantilevered staircases; the supporting columns of the gallery
in St. Andrew’s set back close to the walls; the gallery of St. George’s canti-
levered on an inner wall rather than supported on columns, and the hidden
support of the deep coving and lantern in the roof of the Cash Office in the Bank
of Ireland are all expressions of a preference for apparently effortless support of
39) Diary of his English Journey, entry for 13th April 1796.
117certain members, which shows consistently through his work, and at the same
time explains his lack of affinity with anything authentically Gothic.40
In all of these features there is a close connexion with St. Andrew’s Church.
Here in St. George’s there is the added testimony of the interior decoration as
evidence of Johnston’s skill. This is the apogee of his sparing yet sumptuous
style. The tentative suggestions of brittle elegance of the Primate’s Chapel are a
thing of the past. The unsureness of the Townley rotunda has been strengthened
and clarified in St. George’s, especially in the ceiling (Plates 39, 40).41 There is a
balance of abstract geometrical form and naturalistic detail, a balance of minute-
ness and overall conception of the whole design; above all there is a restraint
and controlled richness, also seen in the interiors of the Bank, which is John-
ston’s mature reaction to the decorative style of Dublin plasterwork in the last
quarter of the eighteenth century.
The first ten years of the nineteenth century, with commissions of such prestige
as the Chapel Royal, St. Andrew’s, St. George’s, the Bank of Ireland, and with
his experiments in the Castle style in domestic architecture, brought full achieve-
ment of maturity as an architect to Johnston. It was a period, however, which can
perhaps be seen as one of regrettable fame, for success brought with it the official
appointment as Architect of the Board of Works and Civil Buildings. In this post
he engaged in the official commissions which were to dominate the rest of his
architectural activity. These, by their nature, demanded the hard and callous
manner of the elevations of the Richmond Penitentiary (Plate 55). But it was a
hardness and callousness which reacted on Johnston himself, and which may
have soured his sensitive touch. For in the last ten years of his life he turned
from architecture to give his attention to increasing his extraordinary collection
of paintings. All this lay ahead, however, when he designed St. George’s, which
takes it place eminently at the very peak of his career. In this church he wor-
shipped, to it he gave his beloved bells, and in its graveyard he is buried. In a
city admittedly poor in steeples that of St. George’s is an inspiring sight, lovely
in all lights but lovelier than anything in Dublin when its white stone is seen in
a harsh white light against the background of a threatening northern sky.
40) As in the staircase of Slane Castle, his structural feats were occasionally too ambitious.
The single span ceiling of St. George’s, receiving no support except from the exterior walls,
threatened to fall in 1836. It was saved by the efforts of the engineer Robert Malet. See
A S h o r t H i s t o r y o f t h e P a r i s h o f S t . G e o r g e , D u b l i n . . . c o m p i l e d . . . b y C a n o n R . J . K e r r ,
M.A., p. 7. See, too, Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 20.
41) A hitherto unidentified drawing by Johnston showing an early—later much modified—
design for this ceiling is in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 29.
11852. General Post Office, Dublin, view of east elevation.
3. CIVIC ARCHITECTURE
The first important work in Dublin with which Johnston’s name is associated
is the building of Daly’s Club House. This was an exceedingly important com-
mission, “the most superb gambling-house in the world.”1 It stretched from the
Parliament House along Dame Street to Anglesea Street (Plate 41), and there is
an interesting account of it in Gilbert’s History of Dublin,2 in which is quoted the
lavish praise of travellers to the city who, impressed with the magnificence of its
interiors, “concurred in declaring it to be the grandest edifice of the kind in
Europe.” Gilbert, and following him, all other commentators on Johnston,
attribute the design to Johnston.
Now building began on Daly’s in 1789, and it was opened two years later.
Thus, if the building is Johnston’s, it is his first independent work of any signifi-
cance,3 unrivalled in its importance until the building of St. Andrew’s more than
ten years later. His connexion with the Club House must, however, now be ques-
tioned. Firstly, no drawings for this work are known. More important is the fact
that Johnston does not mention it in his letter to Brewer in 1820, a letter in which
1) John Bowden, Tour in Ireland, 1791; quoted by Craig, op.cit., p. 281.
2) J. T. Gilbert, A History of the City of Dublin, 1861; Vol. II, p. 305.
3) This is true if observations elsewhere on the dates and authorship of Rokeby Hall, Bally-
makenny Church and the Drogheda Corn Market are accepted. Work on the Armagh
Observatory did begin in 1789, but the Observatory consists simply of a tower attached to
the rear facade of a small country house (Plates 42, 43).
11953. General Post Office, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Mrs. Desmond Forde).54. King’s College, Cambridge, design for Hall and Offices by James Gibbs (from A Book of Architecture).55. Richmond Penitentiary, design for unexecuted elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).56. Richmond Penitentiary, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).only the most paltry of his commissions was ignored. Johnston would hardly
have ignored “the grandest edifice of the kind in Europe” if it had been his first
important commission. Finally, it can be argued that the style of what still
remains of the building—the centre block, with the top storey altered—cannot
easily be related to Johnston’s work at this time. Dr. Maurice Craig agrees with
me that even in its original form the building was “not very characteristic” of
Johnston.
The importance of Daly’s lay in its relation to the neighbouring buildings of
the Parliament House and Trinity College. The order is exactly that of Pearce’s
Parliament House, and the disposition of orders and masses is not dissimilar to
the arrangement of the Trinity College facade.4 Daly’s was important in extend-
ing the vista from College Green along the newly widened Dame Street in a
coherent and impressive piece of town planning. It is difficult to regard it as
likely that, so early in his architectural career, Johnston had any substantial
responsibility for this major and ambitious project.
An undisputable and more enduring monument to Johnston in College Green
is the Bank of Ireland.5 The Bank opened negotiations to buy the Parliament
House in March 1802. In August 1802 a competition for designs to convert the
building into a bank was announced. There was some initial difficulty in award-
ing the first premium to any one of the thirty-five competitors, and independently
of the competition, and before announcing the result, the Board of the Bank
appointed Francis Johnston as its architect.6 The foundation stone for the new
work was laid on 8 March 1804. The conditions of sale stipulated that the
chambers of the Lords and Commons be altered. It was also thought desirable
that the exterior of the building should be made more uniform and more orna-
mental. The condition of the Parliament House, before alterations, can be seen
from a plan prepared for the 1802 competition (Plate 44). By comparing this
with a plan of the Bank in 1855 (Plate 45) the main outlines of Johnston’s
structural changes can be seen. Firstly, the House of Lords (Plate 45, A) and
Gandon’s approach to it were left unaltered. The House of Commons (Plate
45, B) on the other hand was subdivided into offices but Pearce’s corridor sur-
rounding three sides of the House was unchanged. The space between the
Commons and the portico was extended slightly to the east and became the Cash
Office (Plate 45, C). There were considerable additions in the north-west corner
of the plan, which include a handsome gateway to the guard-house. The main
external changes, however, affected the quadrants. Robert Parke’s “piazza” was
eliminated by rebuilding the western quadrant wall between the free standing
columns which had screened it; and Gandon’s screen wall joining the front
portico to his House of Lords portico on the east was brought slightly forward
and received engaged columns. As Curran has pointed out,7 most of these ideas
4) Daly’s, however, unlike Trinity west front, has undiminished pilasters.
5) An invaluable history of the building of the Parliament House and its subsequent history
as the Bank is contained in C. P. Curran’s appendix to F. G. Hall’s The Bank of Ireland
1783-1946; Dublin and Oxford, 1949.
6) The first premium was awarded to a design signed T.V.; second to John Foulston and
third to Joseph Woods Jr.
7) Hall, op.cit., p. 460.
124were contained in the various plans by other competitors, or emerged from the
comments on these projects made by the assessors of the competition.
The external changes made by Johnston are, in a way, typical of his fondness
for symmetry and of his lack of appreciation of the Picturesque. Gandon’s screen
wall was rather dreary, and can only have gained by being enlivened by the
Portland stone of the engaged columns. But a description of Parke’s “piazza”
given by Curran8 is phrased in terms which speak of its unusually picturesque
quality. Picturesque or not, the sober Johnston completed the symmetry of the
building and walled up the piazza.
The East and West Halls of the Bank are simple vestibules decorated in a
strong and robust style (Plate 46). The walls of the West Hall9 are rusticated for
threequarters of their height, with deep horizontal channelling, which contributes
to the spartan feeling of this room. This effect is softened only by wave pattern
panels and the draperies between the lion head corbels. Such draperies were a
favourite theme of Johnston’s. Nowhere did he use them as successfully as in the
Bank where they are an important part of the scheme of the Cash Office. In the
West Hall they are also used in the chimneypiece (Plate 47) which, though
probably executed by Thomas Kirk, was designed by Johnston. Over the mantle-
piece is a tondo with the arms of the Bank. On each side of the fireplace is a
bracket richly carved with a lion’s head from which issues a fold of drapery.
Above the lion heads, the brackets have been given capitals such as a pilaster
might have. The capitals are those of a disguised but unmistakable Greek Doric
order. The echinus may be covered lightly with a leaf design, but the shape,
placed directly over the three-ribbed necking band has the profile of a Greek
Doric capital. This seems a small point but it is significant. The Cease to do Evil
Gate of the City Bridewell (Plate 48) is crowned with a plain triangular piece of
masonry which is supported on a moulding which has the same echinus and
necking band profile as the Bank chimneypiece. At the entrance to the Richmond
Penitentiary the balcony over the door is supported on brackets which have a
similar profile (with a deeper echinus) (Plate 49). The Greek Doric capital profile
also appears on the impost mouldings of the ground floor arcade of the General
Post Office. This allusiveness and insistent return in details to the motifs of the
Greek Doric order characterize his interest in the Greek Revival in his later
work. In his early houses, when the Revival was an innovation, Johnston had
used the Doric and the Primitivist orders as at Townley in a full, if non-monu-
mental, way. Then, just as the public was ready to take a grand monumental
statement of the Revival (Nelson’s Pillar10 was begun in 1808; St. Mary’s Pro-
Cathedral in 1816), Johnston retired into the scholarly allusiveness of the above
examples. His reticence is typical; fine though they were, the grand monuments
of the Greek Revival implied a certain exaggeration of effect which Johnston
could never use.
8) Hall, op.cit., p. 446.
9) Dr. Maurice Craig suggests that the West Hall is still largely by Pearce.
10) The design of Nelson’s Pillar is sometimes attributed to Johnston. Early topographical
guides to Dublin, and more recently Dr. Maurice Craig, all give the design to William
Wilkins and the superintendence of the work to Johnston. The scale of this vast single
Doric column seems to be unlike anything Johnston would have designed. See Patrick
Ballynegall, County Westmeath entrance hall 1961 photograph: Hugh Doran, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 27. “(Smyth/IFR) A house built 1808 by James Gibbons, using stone from the old castle here, which was called Castle Reynall after the former owners of the estate, the Reynall family…Left by James Gibbons 1846 to his nephew by marriage, J.W.M. Berry,…who left Ballynegall to his cousin, T.J. Smyth 1855. Sold by Smyth family 1963, now a ruin.”
Ballynegall drawing room, County Westmeath 1961 photograph: Hugh Doran, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
p. 141. “Very fine two storey classical house with a single-storey Ionic entrance portico. Built in 1808 to the design of Francis Johnston for James Gibbons. Fine interior including an entrance hall with a screen of Ionic columns, and a Portland stone staircase wiht a brass balustrade supporting a mahogany handrail inlaid with brass. The plasterwork of the house was by George Stapleton. Some of the chimneypieces on the first floor and one in the basement seems to have come from an earlier house. Single storey wings one of which incorporated a conservatory were added in the 1840s. The front elevation of the house was copied c. 1850 by George Papworth at nearby Middleton Park. The house was stripped in 1981 and the portico was re-erected at Straffan House, Co Kildare. Some chimneypieces are now in London. The house is now a ruin.”
In Blake, Tarquin. Abandoned Mansions of Ireland. Collins Press, Cork, 2010.
entry in MacDonnell, Randal. The Lost Houses of Ireland. A chronicle of great houses and the families who lived in them. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. London, 2002
“The house, designed by architect Francis Johnston, was commissioned in 1808 and eventually demolished in 1981. In 1849, Mr. James Fraser wrote of the demesne, “The handsome Greek mansion accords with the rich and beautiful park around; while the schools and neat church in the demesne, together with comfortable houses for the tradesmen and labourers, show the good taste and liberality of the proprietor.”
“The history of the house goes back to the time when, following the Norman invasion of Ireland, the principal barons got their hands on large tracts of Irish land. One of the most successful was Hugh de Lacy, who obtained thousands of acres in County Westmeath. He gave the land of Baile nan Gall (or “The Town of the Foreigners”) to his followers, the Tuites, and it remained in their possession until 1720 when they sold it to Colonel Arthur Reynell, who renamed the old house on the land Castle Reynell.
The Reynells lived at Castle Reynell until 1803 when they sold it to a Mr. James Gibbons. This gentleman died shortly afterwards and his son, also named James, pulled down the old Castle of the Tuites and, in 1808, engaged Francis Johnston, the architect of the General Post Office in Dublin (as well as two of the most important mansions in the country, Charleville Castle in County Offaly and Townley Hall in County Louth) to build him a new house….James Gibbons also engaged Alexander McLeish to lay out his gardens (McLeish had already worked at the neighbouring estate of Knockdrin Castle).”
The building poorly maintained. None of the original fabric remains other than the external walls. It is suffering from structural problems that could lead to full or partial collapse, and there is an immediate threat of further deterioration.
The shell of an early 19th century house designed by Francis Johnson in demesne overlooking Lough Owel. The stable buildings remain in agricultural use. A long term conservation plan is required to secure surviving structures.
Ranges of multiple-bay two-storey stable block on U-shaped plan, built c.1808 or c.1824. Central integral carriage to southeast elevation with ashlar limestone bellcote over. Now in use as agricultural outbuildings. Hipped natural slate roofs with ashlar limestone chimneystacks. Constructed of ashlar limestone with ashlar trim, including projecting ashlar limestone string courses at first floor level and at eaves level. Projecting ashlar limestone plinth to base. Square-headed openings to exterior facades. Square-headed openings to ground floor in interior of courtyard with round-headed openings above to first floor, all set in full-height round-headed recesses. Mainly replacement window and door fittings throughout. Cast-iron lamp brackets to interior. Modern corrugated-iron canopies over stable doors to southwest range (interior). Located to the northwest of Ballynagall House (15401212) with remains of further outbuildings to northwest.
A very fine and attractive collection of outbuildings associated with Ballynagall House, which retain their early form and character. This collection of outbuildings has been attributed to Francis Johnston, the architect responsible for the designs of Ballynagall House and one of the foremost architects of his day. However, designs for stables at Ballynagall House were prepared by the architect John Hargrave c. 1824 (catalogue of auction of architectural drawings of John Hargrave – mentioned in IAA), the architect responsible for the designs of the gate lodge (15401214) and Portneshangan Church of Ireland church (15401215) to the southeast, so it is possible that he was responsible for the designs. The design, proportions and quality of the ashlar limestone masonry is of a very high standard, marking this stable block as one of the finest of its date surviving in the country. It forms part of an important group of associated structures within the former Ballynagall Demesne along with the ruins of the main house (15401212) and the gate lodge (15401214) to the southeast.
How curious that nobody in recent decades has thought to write a monograph on one of Ireland’s most prolific and talented architects: Francis Johnston. Born in Armagh in 1760, Johnston was effectively ‘discovered’ by the city’s primate Richard Robinson who sent him to Dublin to study with the Archbishop’s architect Thomas Cooley. Following the latter’s death in 1784 Johnston took over many of his commissions, not least Rokeby, County Louth which was Robinson’s country seat (see Building on a Prelate’s Ambition, February 4th 2013). Thereafter his career never faltered and demand for his services was unceasing. Among the most famous examples of his work are the General Post Office in Dublin and, on the other side of the city and in completely different mode, the Chapel Royal in Dublin Castle (of which more in due course). Success allowed him to be singularly generous: appointed second president of the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1824 he designed and built the organisation’s premises on Abbey Street (it was one of the casualties of the 1916 Easter Rising, ironically headquartered in another of Johnston’s buildings, the GPO). After he died in 1829 his fabled collection of paintings, sculpture, books, objets d’art and curiosities was unfortunately dispersed. But throughout the country there survive examples of his work and these consistently demonstrate the refinement and assurance of Johnston’s taste. Until recently one of the best examples was Ballynegall, County Westmeath.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall dates from 1808 when it was designed for James Gibbons whose family appears to have been involved in banking and other business in Dublin, from whence derived their fortune. Five years earlier he or his father (also called James Gibbons) had bought the estate on which it stands from William Reynell (his forebear Colonel Arthur Reynell had acquired the estate in 172). Seemingly some of the stone from an older property called Castle Reynell was used in the construction of Ballynegall. Evidence of the Gibbons’ affluence is evidenced by the fact the house was renowned for having cost £30,000 to build: an astonishingly substantial figure at the time. James Fraser’s Handbook for Travellers in Ireland (first published 1838) describes Ballynegall as a ‘handsome Grecian mansion’ which ‘accords with the rich and beautiful park around.’ James Gibbons senior died in Cheltenham in 1834, after which the property passed to his son, James junior. He died in 1846 while hunting and since he had no children Ballynegall next passed to a nephew of his wife James William Middleton Berry. On his own death in 1855 the estate was inherited by a cousin Thomas Smyth. Ballynegall remained in the possession of the Smyth family until 1963.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
In 1993 Ballnegall was judged by Christine Casey and Alistair Rowan to be ‘a most delightful villa by one of Ireland’s most refined designers – a man of European stature.’ Of six bays and two storeys, its west-facing facade was perfectly plain except for a four-column Greek Ionic portico which defined the entrance. The garden front had deep Wyatt windows flanking a broad central bow. A sunken service wing to the north was matched on the other end of the house by a large mid-19th century cast-iron conservatory attributed to Richard Turner (Casey and Rowan propose this replaced an earlier one designed by Johnston), its roof supported by pilaster shafts with lotus capitals. Internally the house was a model of neo-classical restraint, the groundfloor holding an entrance hall divided into two sections by a screen of Ionic columns. This in turn gave access to the drawing room (which benefitted from the east-facing bow), library, dining room and morning room. A staircase at right angles to the entrance hall and screened from it by a further pair of Ionic columns led via a bow-shaped return to the generous first floor bedroom corridor: the basement featured an equally fine, broad corridor running the length of the building. Throughout the house the plasterwork by George Stapleton was simple but exquisite, in particular the guilotte and palmette friezes running below dentil and foliage cornices. Much of the furniture appears to have been made for the house by Mack, Williams & Gibton (the library’s bookcases look to have been especially fine) but other captivating details included the 19th century wallpapers, that in the drawing room being pink and gilt, and stenciled to represent decorative panels and pilasters.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
We are fortunate that Ballynegall and its beautiful interiors were recorded in a series of photographs taken in 1961 just a year before the contents were dispersed on the instructions of Captain Michael Smyth during the course of a three-day auction in July 1962. The sale catalogue lists many fine pieces, all scattered: where are they now, and do the present owners know their provenance? The following year the house and estate were likewise sold, after which Ballynegall went through a couple of owners. In 1981 the house itself was ruthlessly stripped of everything that could be taken out: doors, chimney pieces, columns, even the floorboards pulled up for the value of the timber, and then the building unroofed. The portico now adorns the front of the K Club, County Kildare and the Turner conservatory serves as a restaurant at Lyons Village in the same county. The fate of the rest of the fittings is unknown although some of the chimney pieces apparently ended up in England. As the photographs taken earlier this year and shown here reveal, Ballynegall has been gradually drifting into oblivion ever since that despoliationh. Back in 1993 Casey and Rowan wrote that the fate of Ballynegall was ‘one of the most tragic consequences of the laissez-faire attitude of successive governments towards the architectural inheritance of the State…There can be little satisfaction in contemplating the lacerated fragment of a Fragonard and still less pleasure in a visit to Ballynegall as it is now.’ Visiting the place is indeed a melancholy experience, not just because the building is in such lamentable condition but also because that condition is a reflection of national indifference towards our own collective heritage. Within many people’s lifetime a fine house, a masterpiece of neo-classical refinement designed by one of Ireland’s greatest architects, has willfully and shamefully been permitted to fall into dereliction. It happened because nobody cried stop. It continues to happen for the same reason…
Ballynegall, County Westmeath, photograph by Robert O’Byrne, Irish Aesthete.
THE SMYTHS WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY WESTMEATH, WITH 9,778 ACRES
This is a branch of SMYTH of Gaybrook, springing more immediately from SMYTH of Drumcree.
THOMAS HUTCHINSON SMYTH (1765-1830), only son of Thomas Smyth, of Drumcree, by his third wife, Martha (daughter of the Ven Francis Hutchinson, Archdeacon of Down and Connor), served as High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1792, being then described as of “Smythboro” or Coole.
He married, in 1796, Abigail, daughter of John Hamilton, of Belfast, and had issue,
THOMAS, his heir; Francis, Captain RN; John Stewart; Edward, d 1857; Arthur (Dr); Hamilton, barrister (1813-59); Anna; Emily.
Mr Smyth was succeeded by his eldest son,
THE REV THOMAS SMYTH (1796-1874), who wedded, in 1832, Mary Anne, daughter of Adam Tate Gibbons, East India Company, and niece of James Gibbons, of Ballynegall, and had issue,
THOMAS JAMES, his heir; James Gibbons, major in the army; William Adam, major in the army; Albert Edward, major in the army; Elizabeth Abigail Mary Amelia; Mary Anne; Louisa Anna.
The Rev Thomas Smyth was succeeded by his eldest son,
THOMAS JAMES SMYTH JP DL (1833-1912), of Ballynegall, High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1858, Captain, Westmeath Rifles, who married, in 1864, Bessie, fourth daughter of Edward Anketell Jones, of Adelaide Crescent, Brighton, and had issue,
THOMAS GIBBONS HAWKESWORTH, his heir; Ellinor Marion Hawkesworth; Maud Emily Abigail Hawkesworth.
Mr Smyth was succeeded by his only son,
THOMAS GIBBONS HAWKESWORTH SMYTH (1865-1953) of Ballynegall, High Sheriff of County Westmeath, 1917, who wedded, in 1895, Constance, younger daughter of Harry Corbyn Levinge, of Knockdrin Castle, Mullingar, and had issue,
THOMAS REGINALD HAWKESWORTH, b 1897; Marjorie.
BALLYNEGALL HOUSE, near Mullingar, is said to have been one of the greatest architectural losses in the county of Westmeath.
The designs for this elegant and refined Regency house have been traditionally attributed to Francis Johnston, one of the foremost architects of his day and a man with an international reputation.
The quality of the original design is still apparent, despite its derelict and overgrown appearance.
The house was originally constructed for James Gibbons at the enormous cost of £30,000, and was reputedly built using the fabric of an existing castle on site, known as Castle Reynell after the previous owners of the estate.
Ballynagall remained in the Gibbons Family until 1846, when ownership passed on to Mr James W M Berry.
In 1855, ownership later passed on to the Smyth family through marriage.
The house was abandoned in the early 1960s and all remaining internal fittings and fixtures were removed at this time.
The original Ionic portico was also removed in the 1960s and now stands at Straffan House, County Kildare.
The remains of a very fine iron conservatory, which has been attributed to Richard Turner (1798-1881), is itself a great loss to the heritage of the county.
Ballynagall House stands in picturesque, mature parkland.
The remains of the house form the centrepiece of one of the best collections of demesne-related structures in County Westmeath, along with the stable block to the north-west and the gate lodge and St Mary’s church to the south-east.
Royal Hospital Kilmainham, Military Road, Dublin 8.
Since the 2025 Revenue Section 482 list has not yet been published, today’s entry is about the Royal Hospital Kilmainham: not a Historic House, but of relevance since designed by several important architects: William Robinson, Thomas Burgh and Francis Johnson.
The most decorative rooms have been closed to the public for years for renovation, but I am writing now as I had an opportunity to enter the magnificently baroque chapel in order to see a film. Excuse the poor quality of my photographs in the chapel – I didn’t want to disturb the other film viewers.
“Since 2018, The North Range has been closed due to remedial works and essential upgrades, including fire safety improvements, mechanical and electrical system replacements, and the meticulous restoration of the Baroque Chapel ceiling, historic timber panelling, and stained glass. This extensive project, operated by the Office of Public Works (OPW), was completed in July 2024, and it was announced the reopening after 6.5 years. We are more than proud to share the news that we are preparing to host events in The North Range.“
Aww, events? But what about access to the wonderful dining room with its portraits? We shall have to see if it is open…
“Kilmainham” is named after St. Maighneann who established a church and monastery in the area around AD 606. In 1174 the Knights Hospitaller, a Catholic order that focussed on aiding the sick and the poor, founded a Priory in Kilmainham, with the aid of Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, better known as Strongbow. The Priory was destroyed in 1530s with the dissolution of the monasteries by King Henry VIII.
With this history, it seemed appropriate to locate the Royal Hospital here when Arthur Forbes, later Earl of Granard, proposed the idea of building an institution to accommodate veteran soldiers, similar to Les Invalides in Paris. The building was founded by King Charles II in 1679 to accommodate 300 soldiers and construction was overseen by the King’s representative in Ireland, known as the viceroy or Lord Lieutenant, James Butler 1st Duke of Ormond. He was Lord Lieutenant of Ireland from 1661-1669 then again 1677-1684.
Over the next 247 years, thousands of army pensioners lived out their final days within its walls.
The information board from the Royal Hospital tells us that it was hoped that care for injured and elderly soldiers would promote recruitment. After the Civil War between Cromwellian Parliamentarians and Royalists, Charles II was naturally concerned to have a strong military force.
The building was designed by the Chief Engineer and Surveyor General for Fortifications, Buildings, Works, Mines and Plantations for Ireland, William Robinson (1645-1712).
The information board tells us: “Born in England, Robinson went on to hold a great number of public positions. When he resigned as Surveyor General in 1700 due to ill health, he was knighted and given the position of Deputy Receiver-General at the Privy Council of Ireland. However, he was implicated in a financial scandal and following a period of imprisonment at Dublin Castle, he fled to England. He died in 1712 and is buried in Westminster Abbey.”
He must have been forgiven if buried in the Abbey! The notice board also tells us that he personally acquired the portion of the original site near Islandbridge, and built himself a house with a view of the Royal Hospital, but it no longer stands.
Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.
The next Surveyor General, Thomas Burgh (1670-1730), added more to the building. In 1704 he added the tower and steeple over the north range, and designed the infirmary.
In the fourth wing, not generally open to the public, is the splendid Robinson’s Chapel with a baroque plaster ceiling, carved oak and beautiful stained glass window, and the Geat Hall. You can see an online tour at https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ce2pG4J1huc&mls=1
The chapel is dedicated to the memory of King Charles I and its ceiling is beautifully Baroque, a profusion of cherubs’ heads, geometrical shapes, borders, garlands and flowers. Amazingly, the ceiling is a papier-maché replica of the original. The original was too heavy, and the replica was installed in 1901. The artist of the original is unknown. The room is panelled in Baltic pine with ornate oak carving and Corinthian pilasters.
The oak carving of the altar is by Huguenot refugee from Paris, James Tabary. The carvings above the south, east and west Hospital entrances, which are made of wood but painted to look like stone, may also be by Tabary.
The stained glass in the Chapel’s large east window mostly dates to the 19th century, although some of it is said to come from the medieval Priory of St. John the Hospitaller.
In 1849 young Queen Victoria visited the hospital and bestowed a gift of stained glass which shows the coats of arms of the various Masters of the Hospital, which was made c. 1852 in London by Irish artist Michael O’Connor.
The Great Hall contains portraits that have hung here since 1713, and splendidly carved trophies over the doors remind me of those at Beaulieu in County Louth. The portaits include Queen Anne, Queen Mary, William III, Narcissus Marsh, Charles II, James 1st Duke of Ormond and the Richard Butler Earl of Arran and Earl of Ossory (sons of the Duke of Ormond), amongst others. A library which belonged to the original hospital is also cared by the OPW. The northern wing also contains the Master’s Lodgings, made for the Master of the Royal Hospital.
Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.The Great Hall, Royal Hospital Kilmainham, photograph taken 1987, from Dublin City Library and Archives. [see 2]Royal Hospital Kilmainham dining hall by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection NLI, flickr constant commons.Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.Richard Butler (1639-1686) 1st Earl of Arran, son of the Duke of Ormonde, Royal Hospital Kilmainham, 15th October 2023.Thomas Butler (1634-1680) 6th Earl of Ossory, studio of Sir Peter Lely, circa 1678, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 371. Second son of the Duke and Duchess of Ormond and father of 2nd Duke of Ormonde.
In 1805, Francis Johnston carried out restoration work, and in the 1820s remodelled the Master’s Quarters in the northwest corner. He also designed the Adjutant General’s office and the Richmond Tower which stands at the west entrance to the hospital grounds.
The garden, known as the Master’s Garden, has been restored to its formal glory under the suprvision of architect Elizabeth Morgan. In 1693 Chambré Brabazon 5th Earl of Meath was Master of the Hospital and a Minute of the Royal Hospital Committee notes that he was asked to prepare an account for an estimate of works necessary to put some order on the garden. The work was not carried out at the time.
The Garden house is included in a painting by Joseph Tudor in 1750. It was probably designed as a small dining pavilion or banqueting house, with a high coved ceiling on the first floor, and it is attributed to Edward Lovett Pearce circa 1734.
The house was extended in the late 19th century into ahouse for the head gardener.
Annesbrook, County Meath, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 5. “(Smith/LGI1912) A two storey three bay Georgian house with ground floor windows set under relieving arches and a large rusticated and fanlighted doorway; to which an impressive pedimented portico of four fluted Ionic columns and a single-storey wing containing a charming Georgian-Gothic “banqueting room” were added early in C19 by Henry Smith. According to the story, he made these additions in 1821, for when George IV came over to dine with him while staying with Lady Conyngham at Slane Castle; the monarch, however, never saw the banqueting room, preferring to dine out of doors.”
Annesbrook, County Meath photograph courtesy Irish Times Feb 20, 2016.
Not in national inventory
Record of Protected Structures:
Annesbrook House, townland: Deenes. Town: Duleek.
A small handsome early 19thC house of three-bays and two
storeys, to which was added an ionic portico perhaps by
Annesbrook is an 18th century house located outside Duleek, Co. Meath and is an integral part of the Meath built and living heritage. It is approached via a long avenue and is set in woodland in the rolling Meath countryside.
The front of the house has the Georgian rooms and portico which were added when the prince regent, later to become George IV, paid a visit in 1816. It was designed by Francis Johnston the architect for GPO on O’Connell Street and many other landmark buildings in Dublin. The front Georgian section hides a much older and modest farmhouse behind. It is estimated there has been a house on the site since the 15th century.
Over the past number of years ambitious restoration projects have been undertaken. The banqueting hall and portico have been restored, other projects are being undertaken to restore Annesbrook to it’s full grandure. The restoration has been funded by the family, The Irish Georgian Society, The Heritage Council, Meath County Council and Meath Partnership.
The historical setting provides an atmospheric backdrop to an intimate and exclusive gathering, an ideal venue for weddings, private parties, meetings, concerts, theatre, lectures and pop-up dinners. We can offer you the opportunity to design your own event in a magical and unique setting.
Kate Sweetman was a founding member of the highly acclaimed Hidden Ireland group. She successfully operated Annesbrook as a guest house for over twenty years providing hospitality to countless visitors from Ireland and abroad. She comes from a family with a deep interest of the built and living heritage and is sister of David Sweetman, former Chief Archaeologist of Ireland.
As a family we have a profound interest and knowledge of Meath, its landscape, history and traditions. Members of the family have in-depth expertise of the history, heritage, folklore and landscape of Meath. We also have strong professional and personal networks within the culinary, photography, arts, performing arts and environmental communities within Ireland.
The splendid house offers all sorts of possibilities as a setting for your special event.
From the magnificent entrance hall with its feature curved staircase through to the diningroom, which seats 30, and onwards to the Gothic Banqueting Hall which seat 60 comfortably. French doors open out from the Banqueting Hall which make it ideal for extending the space with a marquee.
Set amidst manicured lawns and surrounded by rolling pastureland, the grounds at Annesbrook will add privacy and serenity to your event. As well as providing a beautiful backdrop for the photographs!
The entrance to Annesbrook, County Meath. The design of the main house with its towering Ionic portico and gothick dining chamber in the north wing is sometimes attributed to Francis Johnston (see When Royalty Comes to Call, October 12th 2015). Perhaps he was also responsible for this building which might also have been constructed in anticipation of a visit by George IV in 1821. With the character of a miniature castle, it holds just two rooms, a kitchen/living area on one side of the arch and a sleeping chamber on the other.
Today the visit of George IV to Ireland in 1821 is primarily remembered because it is believed to have led to the road between Dublin and Slane, County Meath being made as straight as possible. But the event was noteworthy for other reasons, not least due to the fact this was the first time a reigning English monarch had arrived in the country without bellicose intentions (as had last been the case when James II and his son-in-law fought here for control of the British throne, with the latter victorious at the Battle of the Boyne in July 1690). The original arrangement would have had George IV land south of the capital at Dunleary, from whence he would set out to make a formal entry into the city. However following the death of his estranged wife Caroline of Brunswick just days before the visit was due to begin, it was felt expedient a more low-key approach be taken to the king’s arrival. Accordingly the royal party landed on August 12th 1821 at Howth harbour where the fifty-nine year old monarch made an immediate impression on the waiting crowd by displaying symptoms of being, to use modern parlance, tired and emotional after the rigours of his passage across the Irish Sea. (Incidentally, his footprints, memorialised by a local stonemason, can still be seen on Howth’s west pier). He flung himself into the throng, shaking hands with anyone within reach before being put into a carriage that set off for the Phoenix Park and the Viceregal Lodge. On arrival there, the king again abandoned protocol by insisting the park gates be thrown open and, in descending from his carriage, making an impromptu speech during which he declared, ‘rank, station and honour are nothing: to feel that I live in the hearts of my Irish subjects, is to me the most exalted happiness.’ No wonder one commentator observed that he was behaving not as a sovereign but ‘like a popular candidate come down upon an electioneering trip.’
Despite national woes due to the economic downturn following the conclusion of the Napoleonic Wars, and indeed owing to the consequences of the 1800 Act of Union, George IV’s visit had been keenly anticipated. It helped that he had expressed a wish everyone he met during his time in Ireland should be wearing locally-produced clothing, thereby giving a boost to trade. In addition, he asked that Lord Forbes, son of the Roman Catholic Earl of Granard, be one of his aides-de-camp for the duration of the visit, and he arranged to act as witness for the installation of the Earl of Fingall as the first Catholic member of the Order of St. Patrick. For his own official entry into Dublin – this was after a period of recovery in the Viceregal Lodge – he wore the order’s ribbon over a full military uniform, shamrock on his hat and on his breast a rosette ‘more than twice the size of a military cockade’: no wonder comparisons were made with election candidates. The formal procession of some 200 carriages began by making its way down Sackville (now O’Connell Street) accessed via temporary gates for which keys were handed to the king by the Herald, Athlone Pursuivant. Progress was slow due to the crowds, and this set the tone for subsequent events, all of which attracted enormous and consistently enthusiastic attendance. The welcome he received in Ireland was in striking contrast to his unpopularity in England, and more than once he noted the difference between the ‘triumph of Dublin’ and the ‘horrors of London’ where he was often booed in the streets. Up to the day of departure, on 5th September and from Dunleary which was then renamed Kingstown in his honour, the numbers following his course never diminished and the visit concluded with Daniel O’Connell – Ireland’s so-called Liberator – kneeling before the monarch and proferring a laurel wreath
For members of Ireland’s aristocracy, George IV’s visit was especially significant since it appeared to offer them an opportunity to entertain their monarch. Still today there are a number of State Bedrooms created in 1821 in expectation of a royal guest. The best-known of these is in Castle Coole, County Fermanagh but another can be found in Loughton, County Offaly (in recent years this has been home to Minister for Children and Youth Affairs James Reilly but it is now on the market). Alas the hopes of many prospective hosts were dashed, because while the king did make a few excursions out of Dublin – notably to Powerscourt, County Wicklow where by lingering over luncheon he avoided being swept away by the waterfall, damned in anticipation of his arrival, which burst through its barricades and swept away the viewing platform – outside Dublin he stayed for several nights in one place only: Slane Castle, County Meath. For those unfamiliar with the tale, herein lies the explanation for the fast straight road from the capital: Slane was the home of George IV’s mistress, the Marchioness Conyngham, and her accommodating husband. Neither the king nor his inamorata were in the first flush of youth, and both were equally corpulent. These circumstances however did nothing to dampen their ardour. As was written of them at the time, ‘Tis pleasant at seasons to see how they sit/ First cracking their nuts, and then cracking their wit/ Then quaffing their claret – then mingling their lips/ Or tickling the fat about each other’s hips.’ And according to one contemporary observer, Lady Conyngham ‘lived exclusively with him during the whole time he was in Ireland at the Phoenix Park. When he went to Slane, she received him dressed out as for a drawing-room; he saluted her, and they then retired alone to her apartments.’ Hence those other State Bedrooms going abegging…
One house that did receive a royal visit was Annesbrook, County Meath – presumably because its location was not too off the route to Slane. Annesbrook is a relatively modest country residence which may have begun as a farm house before being extended westwards in either the late 18th or early 19th century. The front of the building is of two storeys and three bays, the emphatic arch of the centre groundfloor entrance echoed in the shallow relieving window arches to either side. Inside, the hall is divided by a screen of Corinthian columns, the stairs snaking upward inside a bow to the north. That might have been the limit of the house had not its owner in 1821, one Henry Smith, decide to improve the property in anticipation of the king coming to call. Thus he aggrandised the facade by the addition of an enormous limestone portico comprising four Ionic-capped columns beneath a pediment that soars above Annesbrook’s shallow hipped roof. Then to the north of the main block he constructed a single storey, four bay extension in which to entertain the king to lunch. While the exterior of this is plain, the interior, accessed via a antechamber off the dining room, is a riot of gothick decoration, a late flowering of the 18th century style prior to the advent of historical accuracy. Whether on the ceiling, walls or even the marble chimneypiece, Annesbrook’s gothick is as much rococo as mediaeval, with an overlay of classical symmetry. The room is a playful frolic, the plasterwork treated like icing sugar ornamentation, an opportunity to demonstrate the unknown stuccodore’s ingenuity and skill. It was always intended as a backdrop for entertainments and that remains the case: the house’s present owner has worked to preserve the room as best as resources allow, and to this end has received assistance from a variety of agencies including the Irish Georgian Society. While sections of the ceiling still require attention, more than sufficient has already been secured for the remaining work to be undertaken once requisite funds become available. Visitors to Annesbrook today can admire Henry Smith’s enterprise, perhaps more than did George IV: seemingly on the day of his visit to the house, the sun shone and the royal guest chose to dine outdoors. Ironically he never even saw the room built to entertain him.
Annesbrook house is approximately two miles from Duleek on the Ashbourne Road but may be best viewed from the Balrath road. The house has a beautiful view over the River Nanny and the surrounding countryside. On the Ashbourne Road there is a stone gateway, known locally as ‘The Pockets’ with a kitchen on one side and a bedroom on the other side of the arch. In 1838 it was described as a ‘modern spacious gateway.’ The two storey house dates to the late eighteenth century with a portico and dining hall being added for a visit by the king in 1821. The portico may have been designed by the noted architect, Francis Johnson.
Annesbrook is sometimes known as Loughanmore and was the seat of Mr. Hamilton in 1766. Thomas Hamilton of Strabane married Anne Rouse of Oberstown, Co. Meath in 1752. When Thomas died in 1792 their son, Rev. William Slicer, Hamilton inherited Annesbrook.
Henry Jeremiah Smith of Beybeg House married Margaret Osborne of Dardistown Castle in 1802 and they acquired Annesbrook and were in residence when George IV paid a visit in 1821. When George IV paid a royal visit to Ireland in 1821, cynics said that he was coming to Ireland to visit his mistress, Elizabeth Conyngham, Marchioness Conyngham of Slane. The king received invitations from the major landowners and nobility in Ireland and yet he chose to visit Annesbrook. The ionic portico was erected for the royal visit as was the gothic banqueting room with a splendid plasterwork ceiling. George suffered from diarrhoea during the visit and did not enter the banqueting room. As the additions were erected in a hurry the foundations were not adequate and the room sank. In 1842 William M. Thackeray visited the area and is said to have been most impressed by Annesbrook, being pretty and neatly ordered.
Henry had nine sons. His fourth son, St. George W. Smith, lived at Duleek House. A number of the brothers served in the British army. Lieutenant Colonel Frederick Augustus Smith saw action in the Crimean War. For his bravery at Tauranga, on the 21st of June 1864 during the Maori Wars in New Zealand he was awarded the Victoria Cross. He died at Duleek in 1887. A memorial plaque to him, which was in the church in Duleek, was moved to the church in the Ulster
In the 1870s Mrs. Smith wrote a number of novels, one of which featured members of the family and their neighbours. In 1876 Lieutenant-Colonel Stephen H. Smith, of Annesbrook, Duleek, held 981 acres in County Meath. His brother, Michael Edward, succeeded in 1892. Michael, born 1814, had served with the British Army in Jamacia, India and Australia. He died aged 88, in 1903. After Michael’s death the properties went to his nephew, Fitz Henry Augustus Smith. Fitzhenry Smith of Annesbrook died in 1930, aged 70 and was buried in Duleek.
In 1920s the McKeever family took up residence at Annesbrook and the property was sold to the Allens in the 1960s. It then passed through various owners. In recent years the Irish Georgian Society grant aided part of the work of the restoration of the plasterwork in the banqueting hall which had been damaged by water.