Farmleigh House (and Iveagh House), Phoenix Park, Dublin

Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin

Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

Farmleigh House is part of a 78-acre estate inside Dublin’s Phoenix Park. The government bought it in June 1999 to provide accommodation for high-level meetings and visiting guests of the nation. The rest of the time it is maintained by the Office of Public Works and is open to the public for tours.

Farmleigh was originally a two storey Georgian house, belonging to the Coote family and the Trenches, then bought by Edward Cecil Guinness (1847-1927) in 1873, a great grandson of brewery owner Arthur Guinness, at the time of his marriage to his cousin Adelaide Guinness.

Farmleigh was built for the Trench family in 1752, according to a Dublin City Council website, Bridges of Dublin. Charles Trench built the walled garden. I am afraid I am unable to find more information about the Trenches of Farmleigh so I would appreciate any feedback about them.

The Landed Estates database identifies John Chidley Coote (1816-1879) as a previous owner, the son of Charles Henry Carr Coote (1794-1864) 9th Baronet. John Chidley was from Ballyfin in County Laois, later and school and now a beautiful hotel. He married his neighbour Margaret Mary Pole Cosby from Stradbally Hall in County Laois (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/10/14/stradbally-hall-stradbally-co-laois/ ), daughter of Sydney Cosby (1807-1840). They had no children, and she went on to marry Charles Robert Piggott 3rd Baronet of Knapton, County Laois, after John Chidley’s death.

Edward Cecil Guinness enlarged the house, using designs first by James Franklin Fuller (1832-1925), who extended the house to the west, refurbished the existing house and added a third storey. Edward Cecil later engaged William Young (1843-1900), a young Scottish architect, who added the ballroom wing in 1896. Young also worked on the Guinness’s English country seat Elveden in Surrey and Edward Cecil’s house on St. Stephen’s Green. A conservatory was added adjoining the ballroom in 1901. Edward Cecil Guinness was created the 1st Earl of Iveagh in 1919.

Edward Cecil Guinness (1847-1927) 1st Earl of Iveagh, by William Orpen, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.
Adelaide Maria Guinness by George Elgar Hicks, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.

From the website:

Farmleigh is a unique representation of its heyday, the Edwardian period. Edward Cecil Guinness [(1847-1927) 1st Earl of Iveagh], great-grandson of Arthur Guinness (founder of the brewery), constructed Farmleigh around a smaller Georgian house in the 1880s. According to his tastes, the new building merged a variety of architectural styles.

Many of the artworks and furnishings that Guinness collected remain in the house. There is a stunning collection of rare books and manuscripts in the library. The extensive pleasure-grounds contain wonderful Victorian and Edwardian ornamental features, with walled and sunken gardens and scenic lakeside walks. The estate also boasts a working farm with a herd of Kerry cows.” [1]

Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin, July 2015. It was renovated by architect James Franklin Fuller. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In the Dublin between the canals book by Christine Casey, part of the Buildings of Ireland series, she describes Farmleigh as a mediocre building. It is of three storeys with an extensive south facing front, rendered with a pediment and Corinthian Portland stone portico to the two advanced central bays and central canted bows to the flanking five-bay ranges. The five bays on the right of the porch correspond to the eighteenth century house, of which one interior survives, she tells us.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin, July 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/
Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Arthur Guinness Junior: After his father’s passing in 1803, Arthur II took over the business and oversaw a period of significant growth, during which Guinness became the largest brewery in Ireland and began to concentrate on its now-famous stout. Photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Arthur Guinness of Beaumont, J.P., (1768-1855), courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

One is not allowed to take photographs inside the house but you can see pictures of the house and take an online tour on the website. It operates as the official residence for guests of the Irish state, which is why photography is not allowed inside.

The website tells us:

With the addition of a new Conservatory adjoining the Ballroom in 1901, and increased planting of broadleaves and exotics in the gardens, Farmleigh had, by the early years of the twentieth century, all the requisites for gracious living and stylish entertainment. Its great charm lies in the eclecticism of its interior decoration ranging from the classical style to Jacobean, Louis XV, Louis XVI and Georgian.

Farmleigh  was purchased from the Guinness family by the Irish Government in 1999 for €29.2m. The house has been carefully refurbished by the Office of Public Works as the premier accommodation for visiting dignitaries and guests of the nation, for high level Government meetings, and for public enjoyment.” [2]

Edward Cecil Guinness was the son of Benjamin Lee Guinness (1798-1868), who purchased Ashford Castle, County Galway, in 1855. The castle had been a shooting lodge belonging to Lord Oranmore and Browne. In 1867 Benjamin Lee Guinness was created 1st Baronet of Ashford Castle in thanks for his restoration of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin at his own expense. His father had lived in St. Anne’s Park in Clontarf, a house unfortunately no longer in existence.

St. Anne’s, Dublin entrance front with garden party 1912, Gillman Collection Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Ashford Castle, photograph courtesy of Ashford Castle facebook page.

Edward Cecil’s older brother Arthur Edward (1840-1915), like his father, held the office of Member of Parliament (M.P.) (Conservative) for the City of Dublin. He succeeded as 2nd Baronet of Ashford Castle. He added to the residence at Ashford Castle and developed its grounds. He was created Baron Ardilaun of Ashford Castle in 1880. In 1871 he married Lady Olivia Charlotte White, daughter of the 3rd earl of Bantry. They had no children, and the Ardilaun barony became extinct after his death in Dublin on 20 January 1915. 

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us about Arthur Edward:

As well as providing funding for the completion of the restoration of Marsh’s library, begun by his father, he also contributed to the rebuilding of the Coombe Hospital. As president of the Artisans’ Dwellings Company (in which he was a large shareholder), he took particular interest in improving working-class housing conditions, most notably in the areas around St Patrick’s cathedral. Perhaps his most notable legacy was financing the transformation of the twenty-two-acre St Stephen’s Green into a landscaped garden, which, through an act of parliament sponsored by Guinness, was presented to the Board of Works for the use of Dublin citizens. This generosity was marked by the erection of a bronze statue of him in the park, financed by public subscription in 1891. Another significant purchase of his was the 17,000-acre Muckross estate in Co. Kerry, adjoining the lakes of Killarney, which he bought for £60,000 to prevent the land being exploited by a commercial syndicate, thus enabling it to continue as an important tourist attraction.

Muckross House Killarney Co. Kerry, photograph by Chris Hill 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool.

Another brother, Benjamin Lee (1842-1900) who went by his middle name Lee, married Henrietta Eliza St. Lawrence of Howth Castle. It was their son who became the 3rd Baronet of Ashford Castle.

Edward Cecil Guinness, the Dictionary of Biography tells us, was: “Socially innovative, with a concern for the welfare of employees, from as early as 1870 he had established a free dispensary for his workforce and made provisions for pension and other allowances – acts of social reform that were remarkable for the time. To mark his retirement in 1890 he placed in trust £250,000 to be expended in the erection of working-class housing in London and Dublin.

Before the Iveagh Market was built in 1906, hundreds of traders sold their goods outdoors, especially around St. Patrick’s Cathedral, and the area was a maze of poor and dirty streets and alleys with homes, as the city council said, “unfit for human habitation.” Children were sent out by their parents to work selling goods in the streets, and women tried to make money as dealers selling fish, flowers, old clothes and fruit. 

Edward Cecil Guinness cleared the markets in the area to build a park and housing for the labouring poor – you can see the beautiful Victorian style brick buildings still run by the “Iveagh Trust” around St. Patrick’s Cathedral. He donated what in today’s money would be almost 20 million euro for the new housing. As the traders had long established market rights, he built a new market building, moving trading indoors, in the tradition of Victorian covered markets. 

Edward’s main residence at the time he purchased Farmleigh was 80 St. Stephen’s Green, now Iveagh House, the headquarters of the Department of Foreign Affairs. He viewed Farmleigh as ‘a rustic retreat’.

Let’s take a quick diversion to Iveagh House (80 and 81 St. Stephen’s Green), which I was lucky enough to visit during Open House Dublin in 2014. 80 St. Stephen’s Green was built for Bishop Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross, by Richard Castle in 1736. After both number 80 and 81 were bought by Benjamin Guinness in 1862, he acted as his own architect and produced the current house, combining the two houses. [see Archiseek] In 1866 a Portland stone facade by James Franklin Fuller was added.

Iveagh House, 80-81 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh website.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Portland stone facade (1866) by James Franklin Fuller (1835-1924) disguises an early eighteenth century townhouse by Richard Castle (d. 1751) for Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross. The original house, three windows wide, is on the left of the portico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, the original owner, Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross, portrait attributed to Charles Philips. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Robert Clayton (1695-1758) Right Reverend The Lord Bishop of Killalla attributed to Charles Philips courtesy Christies 2007.
Portrait c. 1740 of Archbishop Robert Clayton (1695–1758) and Katherine née Donellan by James Latham, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland. Known for his unorthodox views, at the time of his death Robert Clayton was facing charges of heresy.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography entry by C. J. Woods tells us that Archbishop Robert Clayton was born in England to John Clayton (1657–1725) and his wife, Eleanor (née Atherton). John Clayton moved to Ireland as prebendary of St Michan’s, Dublin (1698–1725), and was later dean of Kildare (1708–25). On his father’s death Robert inherited his estate and so could afford to resign his fellowship and marry, which he did on the same day (17 June 1728), marrying Catherine Donnellan (1703?–1766), a daughter of Nehemiah Donnellan, chief baron of the Irish exchequer. Robert inherited estates in England, and had a fine house built on the south side of St Stephen’s Green, designed in Italian style by Richard Castle in the mid 1730s. He also acquired a country house in Co. Kildare, St Wolstan’s near Celbridge (1752), and spent freely. He and his wife had no children.

St. Wolstan’s, Celbridge, County Kildare, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The Archiseek website tells us about Iveagh House:

“The Dublin Builder, February 1 1866: ‘In this number we give a sketch of the town mansion of Mr. Benjamin Lee Guinness, M.P, now in course of erection in Stephen’s Green, South, the grounds of which run down to those of the Winter Garden. As an illustration so very quiet and unpretending a front is less remarkable as a work of architectural importance than from the interest which the name of that well-known and respected owner gives it, and from whose own designs it is said to have been built. The interior of the mansion promises to be of a very important and costly character, and to this we hope to have the pleasure of returning on a future occasion when it is more fully advanced. The works, we believe, have been carried out by the Messrs. Murphy of St. Patrick’s Cathedral notoriety, under Mr. Guinness’s own immediate directions, without the intervention of any professional architect.’ “

Benjamin Lee Guinness by Stephen Catterson Smith Jr courtesy of Adam’s auction 13 Oct 2015, Provenance: St. Annes, Clontarf, and by descent in the family.

The Farmleigh website tells us of the Guinness family’s source of wealth: “In 1886 Edward Cecil Guinness floated the brewery on the Stock Exchange increasing his wealth and social standing and this reflected in an extensive rebuild of Farmleigh. Despite this work, Edward and his wife Adelaide spent relatively little time there. Their primary residence was in London, but when in Dublin, they stayed mostly at 80 St. Stephen’s Green. The family only stayed in Farmleigh for short periods of a couple of weeks, mainly in the spring and summer months.

80/81 St. Stephen’s Green was donated to the Irish government by Benjamin Guinness’s grandson Rupert, the 2nd Earl of Iveagh, in 1939 and was renamed Iveagh House.

One enters Iveagh House through a large nineteenth century entrance hall with two screens of Ionic columns, which incorporates the front parlour of the Clayton house. The hall is adorned with sculptures bought by the Guinnesses at the Dublin Exhibition of 1865. Through a door at the west end is a Victorian domed vestibule and beyond it a service stair. East of the hall is an Inner Hall that was the entrance hall of Bishop Clayton’s house. This has niches flanking the chimney breast, fielded panelling and a modillion cornice.

The Entrance Hall, Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Sleeping Faun by Harriet Hosner bought by the Guinnesses at the Dublin Exhibition of 1865, for almost the same price, our guide told us, as the house on St. Stephen’s Green! Donated by the Guinnesses along with the house to the state. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, “Modestyby G. M. Lombardi. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, medieval wooden carving, according to our tour guide, picturing Homer’s Illiad scenes. I think, however, it is a mid nineteenth century bas relief carving mentioned by Christine Casey, by Richard Barrington Boyle, of King Priam entreating Achilles to release the body of Hector. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The two stair compartments of the eighteenth century house on St. Stephen’s Green were combined to create the space for the grand imperial staircase inserted by James Franklin Fuller in 1881.

Stair Hall, Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, 80 St. Stephen’s Green, photograph by Michael Foley, 2013.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. The grand imperial stair was inserted by James Franklin Fuller in 1881, with onyx and alabaster wall panelling from 1896 by William Young. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Painting by De Chirico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The drawing room’s ceiling is modelled on the Provost of Trinity House dining room ceiling. There is also a room downstairs in Iveagh House with a room which was added in 1866 with Georgian Revival ornament derived from the Provost’s House.

The ceiling rose and ceiling of the dining room in the Provost’s House. Provost’s House, Trinity College Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Gardens, the part kept by the Guinness’s as part of Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mahogany doorframe and door, Iveagh House, Stephen’s Green. The architect took advantage of the tax on mahogany not imposed in Ireland. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Our guide told us that they were Medieval wood carvings of scenes from Homer’s Illiad, and crest of Lord Iveagh who donated the house to the state. Original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, The Music Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Music Room at the head of the stairs has a Rococo-cum Neoclassical ceiling of the late 1760s.

The Music room ceiling, in Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Saloon or Great Room, the breadth of the 18th century house in the front, with its coved and coffered ceiling, Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, probably originally the withdrawing room of the Lady of the house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Christine Casey describes the ballroom of Iveagh House, which was designed, as was that in Farmleigh, by William Young. Casey writes in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin book (p. 498): “This is an impressive if vulgar room. Tripartite, with a big shallow central dome and lower vaulted end bays with canted bay windows overlooking the garden. Elaborate, almost Mannerist stucco decoration by D’Arcy’s of Dublin.”

The ballroom, our guide to Iveagh House told us, was created to host a Royal visit. The room was built specially to have room for the guests, for £30,000.

Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Original curtains and seats in ballroom in Iveagh House. They remind me of the portiéres in Farmleigh’s ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Fireplace built for ballroom in Iveagh House. JFK was hosted at a reception here and had his picture taken in front of the fireplace, and his daughter Caroline Kennedy had her picture taken there years later. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ballroom stucco in Iveagh House, made from moulds but then finished by hand to make look like fully hand-done. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Minstrals’ gallery in Iveagh House ballroom, made of the new at the time material, aluminium. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of Iveagh house ballroom, in Wedgewood blue. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Now that we have placed Edward Cecil Guinness in the context of the house he lived in at the time of purchasing Farmleigh, let’s return to Farmleigh.

Casey writes that inside Farmleigh, two ranges of rooms open off an east-west spinal corridor, with a “showy” central entrance hall opening through a columnar screen to a large top-lip double-height stair hall.

The entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The immediate front hallway is also toplit by roundels set in the ceiling of the hallway/porte cochere. The porte cochere is upheld by Portland stone pilasters and there is a screen of six columns of Connemara marble on pedestals with Ionic capitals on pedestals. The columns support the coffered ceiling of the Entrance Hall. 

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/

The chimneypiece is of carved and inlaid marble, and the website tells us it is probably a nineteenth-century copy of an original, though the plaque may date from the eighteenth century.

The entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Fireplace plaque in the entrance hall at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The doors leading off the hall have carved mouldings and pediments, and the doors are of veneered mahogany on the hall side and of oak on the other.

The website continues: “The classical motif continues at the Staircase to the rear of the hall. Corinthian pilasters rise from first-floor level to a strongly projecting cornice. San Domingo mahogany is used for the Staircase on which the wrought iron balusters were made to correspond exactly with those on the staircase of Iveagh House, formerly the Earls of Iveaghs’ city mansion.

The stairwell is toplit also.

Stair Hall, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
The wrought iron balusters were made to correspond exactly with those on the staircase of Iveagh House: Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After Edward Cecil’s death in 1927 his eldest son Rupert became the second Earl of Iveagh and inherited Farmleigh and 80 St Stephen’s Green. He was a British MP for Southend at the time, and ceased to be an MP when he succeeded to his father’s earldom. His wife Gwendolen the Countess of Iveagh won the Southend by-election in November 1927 to replace her husband as MP. She served until her retirement in 1935.

He presented the house on St. Stephen’s Green to the Irish State in 1939.

The website tells us about the family in Farmleigh: “Rupert gave Farmleigh to his grandson and heir, Benjamin (Rupert’s eldest son and Benjamin’s father, Arthur, was killed in WWII). Farmleigh became a family home for Benjamin (3rd Earl of Iveagh) and Miranda Guinness, and their children. Benjamin became a keen bibliophile and collector of rare books, parliamentary and early bindings, as well as first editions of the modern poets and playwrights. The library in Farmleigh in now dedicated to Benjamin Iveagh and his wonderful collection of books.

Benjamin died in 1993 in London and in 1999, his son Arthur Guinness (4th Earl of Iveagh), sold Farmleigh to the Irish State.” [2]

The website continues:

The door to the left of the hall leads to the Dining Room, which is lined with boiseries in the style of Louis XV. There is some spectacular woodcarving in this room, of particular note is the chimney piece, supported by a pair of female herms, with a clock at its centre surmounted by a grotesque face. Bronze figures of Bacchantes are placed in the shell-topped niches on either side of the fireplace, while beneath them are late Victorian oak buffets. The London firm of Charles Mellier & Co., supplied the interior here (apart from the ceiling which was designed by the architect J.F. Fuller).”

The Dining Room panelling was designed by decorators Charles Mellier & Co to incorporate four late seventeenth century Italian tapestries which once belonged to Queen Maria Christina of Spain. Three of the embroidered panels have been identified as the planetary gods, Jupiter, Venus, and Saturn. These panels are likely to be part of a larger set of seven panels relating to the Roman deities. One such panel, apparently from the same set and depicting Mercury, is in the Hermitage Museum in St Petersburg. The fourth panel above the fireplace is thought to depict a personification of Africa and to be part of a further set, depicting the continents.

The Dining Room in Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

Beyond the dining room is Guinness’s Study, a wainscoted room with a sky painted ceiling. A concealed door next to the window at the southwest corner led to a basement stronghold, a secret chamber for Guinness to escape in case of attack.

The Study in Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

The website tells us:

The main entrance to Farmleigh was originally on the north side of the house (in part of what is now the Library) and this was probably a reception room where guests either dined or withdrew after dinner. By 1873, when Edward Cecil Guinness bought the house, the entrance had been changed to the south of the building and this room was the entrance hall. It subsequently became a boudoir and reverted in later years with the Guinness family to a reception room while keeping its appellation as ‘boudoir’. (Generally the boudoir was a ‘private’ room for the lady of the house, decorated in a light and elegant style. Her ‘public’ room was the drawing room, just as the gentleman’s study was his ‘private’ room and the library his ‘public’ room.).

The Boudoir is oval in shape with two niches, one each side of the door into the Corridor. The niche to the right of the door as one enters contained a jib door into the Oak Room but the space between the rooms now holds a safe accessed from the Oak Room.

Christine Casey describes the Oak Room in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin (p. 298). She writes: “On the right of the hall is the studiolo-like Oak Room, which has a coffered oak ceiling and tall panelling with pilasters, scalloped tympana and grotesque terms. …Beefier and more textured than most of the carving at Farmleigh. It has been suggested that Fuller used salvaged panelling, although the regularity of execution seems at odds with the seventeenth century style.”

The Boudoir, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The website describes the Boudoir: “The ceiling plasterwork dates from about 1790 and is in the Adam style, with husk chains and classical motifs in medallions surrounding the central decoration of a fan-like or bat’s-wing motif, which is itself echoed in the heads of the niches. The unusual medallion motifs here are similar to those in a ceiling in 35 North Great George’s Street, Dublin which has been attributed to Francis Ryan or Michael Stapleton and dated to 1783. It is in particularly fine condition and clearly articulated without excessive applications of paint.

During the OPW restoration work, it was possible to examine the original decorations and colour scheme of the Georgian house here because the ceiling heights had been changed in the Guinness alterations. Particular attention has been paid in the selection of fabrics for this room to reflect its character.

An item of particular interest is the pair of engraved brass lock-plates on the door into the corridor which are similar to some in Iveagh House where they are original to that 1736 house! They are the only examples of these at Farmleigh and it is presumed that they got here through Fuller who also worked at Iveagh House.

One of the former drawing rooms is now called the “Nobel Room” and honours the memory of Ireland’s four Nobel Laureates for literature: George Bernard Shaw, William Butler Yeats, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney. It interconnects with the “Blue Drawing Room.” These rooms were significantly re-modelled by Fuller in the 1880s, and again in the 1890s by William Young. The saucer-domed ceiling in the Nobel Room is in the style of the 1820s and its plasterwork of vine-leaves, grapes and vases filled with fruit and flowers indicates that it may have been a dining room. A clever touch is the window over the fireplace, an unusual feature. Christine Casey writes: “Taking a leaf from Charles Barry’s book, Fuller went to pains to move the fireplace to the centre of the rear wall to create an arresting overmantel window.”

The Nobel Room and Blue Room, with the window over the fireplace, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The Blue Room is an ante room to the Ballroom. The ceiling was copied from that in the Oval Room, though it is not at all as finely executed as the original. The three arched doorways in these rooms were created out of windows in the old house when Young added the Ballroom in 1896.

The Blue Drawing Room, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.
Blue Room, Farmleigh, with a “portiere” over the arched door on the right, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
The spandrels in the Nobel Room support a circular ceiling. The spandrels have overscaled Rococo-revival flower baskets, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The suite for state guests, which is not included in the house tour, is inspired by designs of Irish modernist Eileen Gray (you can see examples of her work in the Museum at Collins Barracks in Dublin). 

The house also contains the Benjamin Iveagh Library, donated by the Guinness family to Dublin’s Marsh’s Library and on permanent display in Farmleigh. The Library, which is panelled in Austrian Oak with exquisitely rendered carvings in the neo – Jacobean style, was part of the renovation undertaken by Edward Cecil in the 1880s. Scholars can access material from the collection by arrangement. The Benjamin Iveagh Library is open for use by suitably qualified scholars, third-level students, and independent researchers. A full electronic catalogue of the collection may be viewed online via Marsh’s Library.

The Library, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

Applications to carry out research in the Benjamin Iveagh Library may be made to the Keeper of Marsh’s Library.
Email: reading.room@marshlibrary.ie

The librarian Nuala Canny writes:

“While the printed works which include many rare imprints and early periodicals represent the majority of the holdings, there is some exceptional manuscript material, including a copy of the Topography of Ireland by Gerald of Wales c.1280, and the trilingual language primer used by Queen Elizabeth I c. 1564  to learn Irish, together with letters from Sean O’Casey, W.B. Yeats, Lennox Robinson, Daniel O’Connell and Roger Casement.

“The items that adorn these shelves represent important moments in the areas of Irish Politics, Literature, and Science: we have a triumphant letter from Daniel O’Connell to his wife in 1829 telling her of the passing of the Roman Catholic Relief Act, which led to Catholic Emancipation,  a first edition of James Joyce’s seminal work Ulysses published in 1922 and the first appearance in print in 1662 of Boyle’s Law.”

The Ballroom with adjoining conservatory is the piéce de resistance of the house. The ballroom was designed by William Young in 1892. It is a large rectangular room with bows in the centre of the north, east and south walls. Casey writes that “it is a much more reticent affair than the showy marble ballroom that Young designed the Guinness townhouse at St. Stephen’s Green [as pictured above].”

The Ballroom, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Ballroom at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

The website tells us:

The Guinness’ guests could not fail to be impressed with the superb decoration in the style of Louis XVI with swags, wreaths, musical trophies, urns, sphinxes, and Corinthian pilasters. The rich decoration is executed in plaster that is applied to wood panelling, and the whole room, including the ceiling, is painted off-white to resemble plaster. The chimney piece is also made of wood and this, together with the overmantel, the ceiling, and the elegant portieres, were all part of an integrated scheme designed by Young. The Edinburgh-based interior design company Morrisons probably supplied the portieres as they had done so for the Young-designed ballroom at Iveagh House.

The plaster decoration is also by Mellier.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/

Hanging from the centre of the ceiling is a magnificent late nineteenth-century cut-glass and gilt metal chandelier complete with coronet. Purchased specifically for the Ballroom, it is on loan from the Guinness family. There is a story that the oak floor was made from disused barrels at the brewery but that has never been confirmed!

The Ballroom, Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The Conservatory: “Erected in 1901-2, it was supplied by Mackenzie and Moncur of Edinburgh, on the recommendation of Young. Exotic plants and flowers were grown here, and have been re-introduced by the Office of Public Works. Hot water pipes that ran around the perimeter were covered up by cast iron grilles, which have been restored. The marble floor, which is original, is tiled in the traditional eighteenth-century pattern of carreaux octagons.

This room posed one of the most difficult conservation problems for the OPW at Farmleigh, as it was in a dangerous condition when the State took over the house. It was completely re-glazed and new structural supports for high-level metal work were introduced. As a result the character of the Conservatory has been retained and its life span increased for at least another 100 years.

Farmleigh, Dublin, photograph courtesy of https://heritageireland.ie/places-to-visit/farmleigh-house-and-gardens/
The Conservatory at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.
Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Farmleigh facebook page.

A room we don’t see on the tour is discussed on the blog on the Farmleigh website: the Billiard Room:

Located at mezzanine level between the ground and first floors, typical of nineteenth century billiard rooms to keep offending cigar odours away from the rest of the house and male visitors appropriately distanced from visiting ladies, it is very much a masculine enclave. Beneath a top-lit roof – reconstructed and reglazed with ultraviolet screens by the OPW – the plaster cornice, deep ceiling cove and decorative ribs are painted in imitation of timber. The oak chimneypiece with Corinthian columns and carved frieze to the south of the room is dark in colour, lending to the heaviness about the overall decor when combined with the distinctive red cotton wall fabric which is printed with an arabesque motif.

The Billiard Room at Farmleigh, photograph courtesy of Office of Public Works Farmleigh website.

The grounds contain a clock tower, a large classical fountain in the Pleasure Grounds, an ornamental dairy, garden temple and four acre walled garden and sunken garden. The outbuildings have been adapted to house an art gallery and a theatre and a courtyard for additional state accommodation. The Boathouse now houses a cafe overlooking the lake.

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, February 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Sunken gardens in various formal styles were popular in the early twentieth century… This one is in the Dutch of Early English style and was created some time after 1907, probably by Edward Cecil Guinness. The design has some similarities with the sunken pond garden at Hampton Court, which dates from the original Early English period, and may relate to his connections with the British Royal family.

An ornamental gate leads into the rectangular garden, which was designed with three descending brick terraces leading to an oval pool in the centre, with a marble fountain of carved putti figures. The fountain has been restored under the direction of OPW and the Carrara marble exposed. Fine topiary peacocks and spirals surround this fountain on two levels. A brick wall enclosing the garden is paralleled by a high yew hedge, which leads the eye to the two conifers framing the view to the small apple orchard beyond.” [3]

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

“The Walled Garden covers about four acres and is sloped ideally towards the south. A fine pair of highly decorative wrought iron gates lead into a diagonal walk with double herbaceous borders backed by high yew hedges. South of the main crosswalk is a small orchard and potager, while north of it there is a small rose and lavender garden. The Walled Garden dates from the early nineteenth century, when Charles Trench owned Farmleigh; it is shown on the 1837 Ordnance Survey map as having a diagonal layout with seven squares and glasshouse. Later that century it had an extensive range of glasshouses on the south wall for many plants grown in typical Victorian fashion to support large-scale bedding schemes as well as producing exotic fruit and flowers and foliage, particularly orchids and ferns, for year round display in the house.

Among the additions made by Edward Cecil Guinness were the small Victorian fernery under glass and grotto nearby with two old ogee windows from St Patrick’s Cathedral in the end wall of the garden. He also erected a number of glasshouses, including a fine three quarter span cast-iron vinery behind the high yew hedge, the potting shed, and the gardener’s house and pump house which were built in the Arts and Crafts style. His daughter in-law, Gwendolen, Lady Iveagh, subsequently created a compartmentalised layout, which was fashionable in the early twentieth century along with renewed interest in old style garden plants and herbaceous borders. A new traditional path led from the wrought iron gateway connecting the Walled Garden to the broad walk at the back of the house. This new axis of the garden was reinforced by tall yew hedges backing the long double herbaceous borders which she also planted.

A stone temple was created as a focal point of the garden by Benjamin and Miranda Guinness in 1971: it has six antique columns of Portland with a copper roof and ornamental weather vane. The main cross path either side of the temple has metal structures designed by Lanning Roper for climbing roses and wisteria similar to those in the famous Bagatelle Garden in Paris. A paved rose garden was laid out to the north east of the temple backed by a yew hedge and looking across a lawn to the small orchard and potage. Lanning Roper suggested planting a quince, a mulberry, a catalpa, and a magnolia, to complete what he described as a Carolingian Quartet on this lawn. Lady Iveagh subsequently planted the double herbaceous borders, which include yuccas, phormiums, paeonies, astilbe and euphorbias.” [4]

Gardens at Farmleigh, Phoenix Park, Dublin, August 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] See also https://farmleigh.ie/

[2] https://farmleigh.ie/the-guinness-family/

[3] https://farmleigh.ie/the-parkland/

[4] https://farmleigh.ie/the-parkland/

Open House Dublin 2023 coming soon

Open House Dublin 2023 has published their schedule https://openhousedublin.com

I look forward to this and book it into my calendar every year. I published about it before but will republish about some of the places that are open again this year. It has returned to the high quality offerings of its earlier years.

1. Blackhall Place (formerly Blue Coat School) Dublin (we visited during Open House 2019)

2. Department of Enterprise Trade and Employment, 23 Kildare Street (2019)

3. Irish Architectural Archive, Merrion Square.

4. Iveagh House, 80 and 81 Merrion Square, Dublin (Department of Foreign Affairs) (Open House 2014)

5. Mansion House, Dublin (2015)

6. Marsh’s Library, Dublin (Heritage Week 2013)

7. Na Píobairí Uilleann, 15 Henrietta St, Dublin

8. Nellie’s Flat, Iveagh Trust, Patrick Street, Dublin (Open House 2014)

9. Pigeonhouse (2021)

10. Royal College of Surgeons, Dublin (2011)

11. Tailors Hall, Dublin (Heritage Week 2013)

OPW sites are open as well, see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/01/21/office-of-public-works-properties-dublin/

1. Blackhall Place (formerly Blue Coat School) Dublin, 2019.

Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. A taller tower was initially planned. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Archiseek tells us that the first Blue Coat School or King’s Hospital was erected in Oxmantown Green between 1669-1673. It was officially named the Hospital and Free School of King Charles II. Orphans were nominated to attend the school by the Alderman or the parish, with funding coming from voluntary donations and from ground rent of St. Stephen’s Green. This building was demolished to make way for the new building, pictured above. The current building was started in 1773. Ivory resigned in disgust before it was finished, due to lack of funds, and only a stub was built instead of his tower, and the stub was removed in 1894 and a dome constructed.

The description of the tour tells us:

The last of Dublin’s Palladian public buildings, the granite and Portland stone Blue Coat School replaced earlier premises, which had been established by King Charles I in 1671 to care for the sons of impoverished citizens. Construction began in 1773 to designs by Thomas Ivory, however funding issues led to a reduced building programme and Ivory’s departure. In 1894, a copper-clad cupola designed by Robert Stirling was added. Today, the building is home to the Law Society of Ireland, which has taken great care to retain many fine interior features.

Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The building now houses the Law Society. It was built as a traditional country house composition with a central block, two wings and connecting passages. The wings have decorations intended to mirror the central tower.

Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stephen Trotter, Judge of the Prerogative Court, by Peter Scheemakers (1691-1781), brought from Duleek, County Louth. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The interior contains plasterwork by Charles Thorpe and carvings by Simon Vierpyl.

Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Back of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Back of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Collins Barracks, behind Blue Coat School/Blackhall Place, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Back of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Back of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Side of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Side of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Side of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Side of Blackhall Place, Dublin, or The Blue Coat School, by Thomas Ivory, 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

2. Department of Industry and Commerce, Kildare Street (Open House 2019)

Department of Industry and Commerce, Open House 2019: The tall round-headed window passes up through the floors to a keystone of representing Eire, with “jazzy” interstitial panels. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The carved lintel of the doorway represents the celtic god Lugh releasing aeroplanes into the air! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The architect was J. R. Boyd Barrett, who won a competition to built it in 1936. It has a stripped Classical design with an Art Deco entrance bay addition. The external relief sculptures are by Gabriel Hayes. The tall round-headed window passes up through the floors to a keystone of representing Eire, with “jazzy” interstitial panels [Archiseek]. On the Schoolhouse Lane side the keystone represents Brendan the Navigator. The main entrance has a heavy cast bronze gates, and the carved lintel of the doorway represents the Celtic god Lugh releasing aeroplanes into the air!

On the Schoolhouse Lane side the keystone represents Brendan the Navigator. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Department of Industry and Commerce, Open House 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Department of Trade and Commerce, Open House 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Department of Trade and Commerce, Open House 2019. The relief carvings here represent stylised images of industry and commerce. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The interiors were also designed by Boyd Barrett and everything from the ashtrays, fireplaces and door handles were specially designed. The interiors feature polished woods and metals and patterned linoleum floors, and the ceilings are deeply coffered.

Department of Trade and Commerce, Open House 2019. The interiors were also designed by Boyd Barrett and everything from the ashtrays, fireplaces and door handles were specially designed. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Department of Trade and Commerce, Open House 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Department of Trade and Commerce, Open House 2019. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

3. Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square East D02VY60

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/irish-architectural-archive-2/

Take a tour of the largest terraced house on Merrion Square, learn about its history, see the latest exhibitions and discover the work of the Irish Architectural Archive.

No. 45 Merrion Square, the home of the Irish Architectural Archive, is one of the great Georgian houses of Dublin. Built for the speculative developer Gustavus Hume [1732-1812] in the mid-1790s and situated directly across Merrion Square from Leinster House, this is the largest terraced house on the Square and is the centrepiece of its East Side. Founded in 1976, the house was restored to its original plan by the Office of Public Works in 2003-4, and update fro use as a best-practice archive facility.

Tours start on the hour and will operate on a first come basis, no need to book in advance.

 www.iarc.ie

Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square, November 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

No. 45 Merrion Square, the home of the Irish Architectural Archive, is one of the great Georgian houses of Dublin. Built for the speculative developer Gustavus Hume in the mid-1790s and situated directly across Merrion Square from Leinster House, this is the largest terraced house on the Square and is the centrepiece of its East Side.

Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square, November 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Light-filled, spectacularly-proportioned, interconnected rooms on the piano nobile of this Georgian palazzo offer a range of venues and facilities: meeting rooms for up to 20 people; multimedia lecture facilities for up to 55, dining space for up to 80, and receptions for up to 250. Whether the event is a meeting, a conference with breakout sessions, or a private or corporate reception, the Irish Architectural Archive’s beautifully graceful spaces provide Georgian elegance in the heart of Dublin.”

Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square, November 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square, November 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Babel by Aidan Lynam. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Standing four stories over basement, and five bays wide, No. 45 is the largest of the terraced houses on Merrion Square. The house was built circa 1794 for the property developer Gustavus Hume. The architect may have been Samuel Sproule who, in the early 1780s, was responsible for the laying out of much of Holles Street, of both Mount Streets and of the east side of Merrion Square. The first person to live in the house seems to have been Robert la Touche [of Harristown, County Kildare] who leased the building in 1795. In 1829 the house was sold to Sir Thomas Staples [9th Baronet Staples of Lissan, County Tyrone]. It had been built in an ambitious and optimistic age, but in the Dublin of the late 1820s its huge size was somewhat anachronistic and certainly uneconomical, so Sir Thomas had the building carefully divided into two separate houses. Sir Thomas died aged 90 in 1865, the last survivor of the Irish House of Commons.

Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

On his death, both parts of the house passed to Sir John Banks, Regius Professor of Medicine in Trinity College, who, like his predecessor, leased the smaller portion of the divided building, by now numbered Nos. 10 and 11 Merrion Square East. Banks himself lived in No. 11, the larger part, which he maintained in high decorative order. Banks died in 1910, and both parts of the building fell vacant and remained so until 1915 when the whole property was used to accommodate the clerical offices of the National Health Insurance Company. With single occupancy restored, the division of the building, renumbered 44 – 45 Merrion Square, began to be reversed, a process carried on in fits and starts as successive Government departments and agencies moved in and out over the decades. The last to go was the Irish Patents Office, relocated to Kilkenny in 1996.

Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Chimneypiece in Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Chimneypiece in Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Detail of chimneypiece in Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Detail of chimneypiece in Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I love this piece, Ballymun by William Heefer. It looks like abstract art, but when you look closely, those squares are windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The house was assigned to Irish Architectural Archive by Ruairí Quinn TD, Minister for Finance, in his budget of 1996. The Office of Public Works carried out an extensive programme of works to the house from 2002 to 2004, including the refurbishment of the historic fabric and the construction of new state-of-the-art archival stores to the rear.

Irish Architectural Archive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

4. Iveagh House (80 and 81 St. Stephen’s Green) – Department of Foreign Affairs (Open House 2014)

I’m excited to see this open again https://openhousedublin.com/locations/tour-of-iveagh-house-department-of-foreign-affairs-headquarters/

Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Portland stone facade (1866) by James Franklin Fuller (1835-1924) disguises an early eighteenth century townhouse by Richard Castle (d. 1751) for Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross. The original house, three windows wide, is on the left of the portico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Iveagh House, the headquarters of the Department of Foreign Affairs, has many stories within its walls. Explore the nooks and crannies of its beautiful architecture and artwork on this guided tour.

You will be welcomed in to the Entrance Hall and onwards to the Secretary General’s Office where, under the political direction of the Tánaiste and Minister, the Secretary General manages the Department. From there you will be brought through the Inner Hall to The Secretary General’s Ante Room. When you exit the Ante room you will be meet with the houses’ spectacular double Staircase. Moving on, you will be guided to through the Tánaiste’s Dining Room, Ante Room and finally the Tánaiste’s Office. The tour will continue on to the Ballroom before ending in Lady Iveagh’s Boudoir.

This tour is pre-book only, booking opens 14 September.

Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, the original owner, Robert Clayton (1695-1758), Bishop of Cork and Ross. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Archiseek website tells us:

Iveagh House is now the Department of Foreign Affairs as it was donated to the Irish State by the Guinness family in 1939. Originally two houses, nos 80/81 St Stephen’s Green, no 80 was originally designed by Richard Cassels [also spelled “Castle”] in 1736. After both houses were bought by Benjamin Guinness in 1862, he acted as his own architect and produced the current house. 

“The Dublin Builder, February 1 1866: ‘In this number we give a sketch of the town mansion of Mr. Benjamin Lee Guinness, M.P , now in course of erection in Stephen’s Green, South, the grounds of which run down to those of the Winter Garden. As an illustration so very quiet and unpretending a front is less remarkable as a work of architectural importance than from the interest which the name of that well-known and respected owner gives it, and from whose own designs it is said to have been built. The interior of the mansion promises to be of a very important and costly character, and to this we hope to have the pleasure of returning on a future occasion when it is more fully advanced. The works, we believe, have been carried out by the Messrs. Murphy of St. Patrick’s Cathedral notoriety, under Mr. Guinness’s own immediate directions, without the intervention of any professional architect.’ “

Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The building was donated to the Irish government by Benjamin Guinness’s grandson Rupert, the 2nd Earl of Iveagh, in 1939 and was renamed Iveagh House.

Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Painting by De Chirico. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, October 2014. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Gardens, the part kept by the Guinness’s as part of Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mahogany doorframe and door, Iveagh House, Stephen’s Green. The architect took advantage of the tax on mahogany not imposed in Ireland. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Sleeping Faun, bought by the Guinness’s, for almost the same price as the house! Donated by the Guinnesses along with the house to the state. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, medieval wooden carving, picturing Homer’s Illiad scenes. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, “Modesty.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, originally the study. Medieval wood carvings of scenes from Homer’s Illiad, and crest of Lord Iveagh who donated the house to the state. Original fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, The Music Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Music room ceiling, in Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House, St Stephen’s Green, probably originally the room of the Lady of the house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Original curtains and seats in ballroom in Iveagh House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh House ballroom. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Fireplace built for ballroom in Iveagh House to host a Royal visit to the Guinness’s, the room was built specially to have the guests, for £30,000. JFK was hosted at a reception here and had his picture taken in front of the fireplace, and his daughter Caroline Kennedy had her picture taken there years later. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ballroom stucco in Iveagh House, made from moulds but then finished by hand to make look like fully hand-done. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Minstrals’ gallery in Iveagh House ballroom, made of the new at the time material, aluminium. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceiling of Iveagh house ballroom, in Wedgewood blue. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

5. Mansion House, Dawson Street, Dublin – private, home of the Mayor of Dublin (Open House 2015)

Mansion House, Dublin 2015. Originally there were statues along the parapet, which was later balustraded. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Buildings of Ireland website featured the Mansion House as one of its Buildings of the Month, and tells us that The Mansion House, Dawson Street, is the oldest freestanding house in the city and the only surviving mayoral residence in Ireland.

The Mansion House owes its origins to Joshua Dawson (1660-1725), a member of the Guild of Merchants and at the time the second-wealthiest man in Ireland, who in 1705 purchased a tract of poor marshy ground east of the medieval core of Dublin and within two years had laid out a new street which he named Dawson Street. Work on a suitable townhouse began in 1710 and it is clear that the house was intended as the centrepiece of the new street.

The house, a rare example of a Queen Anne-style house, was substantially refronted in 1851 when the original brick finish was plastered, the windows were given robust classical frames, and the parapet was remodelled about a central pediment carrying the Coat of Arms of the City. The elaborate cast-iron canopy (1886) was designed by Daniel J. Freeman (1856/7-1902), City Architect (fl. 1879-93).

Mansion House, March 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Drawing Room, Mansion House, March 2015. It contains portraits of Earl Whitworth, the Earls of Hardwicke and Westmoreland, John Foster the last Speaker of the House of Commons and Alderman Alexander [1]. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The death of Queen Anne in 1714 abruptly disrupted Dawson’s ambitious plans. Fearing that her successor would not be so favourable toward him, Dawson agreed on the 18th of May, 1715, to sell the house to Dublin Corporation at a cost of £3,500 in addition to a yearly ground rent of forty shillings and a loaf of double-refined sugar weighing six pounds due each Christmas. As a condition of the sale, Dawson agreed to build an additional room which could be used for civic receptions: the now-famous Oak Room. 

The Oak Room was the venue of the annual City Ball throughout the eighteenth century. On such occasions the Lord Mayor dispensed generous hospitality, aided in no small part by a yearly grant of twenty thousand oysters from the civic oyster beds. The Oak Room continues to play a central role in the life of the Mansion House today. [2] It contains portraits of Charles II, George II, Duke of Cumberland and the Duke of Richmond.

The Oak room contains crests for all of the Mayors. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mayor John Gormley’s crest – the mayors pick symbols that they feel are suitable to represent them. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I don’t know what this means for Mayor Moyers! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mansion House, March 2015. The “Sheriff’s Room” with portraits of the Duke of Northumberland, Lord Townshend, John Duke of Bedford and Aldermen Sankey, Thorpe and Manders. [1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mansion House, March 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The extension of the property continued well into the nineteenth century and included the Round Room completed in just six weeks in 1821 for the reception of King George IV. Designed by John Semple (d.1840) in the “exotic” style, an apparent nod to the monarch’s Hindu-Gothic Brighton Pavilion, it was remodelled 1892 by J. G. Ashlin, and was the venue for the first sitting of Dáil Éireann in January 1919.

The improvement of the Mansion House continued into the early twentieth century when, in anticipation of a royal visit by Queen Victoria, new ceilings were installed in the entrance hall and drawing room to designs by Charles James McCarthy (c.1857-1947), City Architect (fl. 1893-1921). The stained glass window over the principal staircase dates from the same period and carries the signature of Joshua Clarke and Sons of North Frederick Street. The Dublin City coat-of-arms again features as the centrepiece in a frame including the shields of the four provinces of Ireland and the names of prominent supporters of Home Rule. Topped and tailed by a Garland of Peace and a Cornucopia of Prosperity, the window is today known as “The Peace Window”. 

6. Marsh’s Library, Dublin (2013)

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/marshs-library-2/

Marsh’s Library 1975, photograph from National Library and Archives. [3]

Marsh’s Library was built in 1701, designed by William Robinson who was surveyor general from 1670-1700, and who also designed the Royal Hospital Kilmainham. The Library was set up as the first public library in Ireland, by Archbishop Narcissus Marsh (1638-1713).

Narcissus Marsh, Provost of Trinity ca. 1690, then Archbishop of Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Unchanged for three centuries, this perfectly preserved library of the early Enlightenment, with its original oak bookcases, houses more than 25,000 rare and fascinating books. Narcissus Marsh was Church of Ireland Archbishop of Dublin, and formerly Provost of Trinity College, Dublin. In 1707 the library was established by an act of Parliament with the second gallery added shortly after under the supervision of Robinson’s successor as Surveyor General Thomas Burgh.

Built as the first public library in Ireland and still in use today by scholars and students, Marsh’s Library is one of the few buildings of its time in Dublin still being used for its original purpose. A small garden on the grounds provides a peaceful haven in the middle of the city.

Tours of the building will take place discussing the history of the building and how it was designed to preserve the books and the various alterations that have been made over the years since the Library first opened.

Meeting point: Front landing of Marsh’s Library

Tours will operate on a first come basis on the hour from 11am to 4pm with last tour starting at 4pm.

Marsh’s Library. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance to Marsh’s library. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The interior of the library remains unchanged from when it was set up. It is no longer a public library, unfortunately, as the books are too delicate for general handling, but one can request to look up books in the catalogue, and it operates as a sort of museum open to the public for a fee. It contains dark oak bookcases topped with lettered gables and a mitre. The library contains the original reading cages – a reader would be locked in so that he or she could not steal the books.

Marsh’s Library, Feb 26, 2012. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Marsh’s Library librarians. The first Librarian, Elias Bouhereau, was a Huguenot refugee from France. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Garden of Marsh’s library, Heritage Week tour 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Garden of Marsh’s library, Heritage Week tour 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Garden of Marsh’s library, Heritage Week tour 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Garden of Marsh’s Library, Heritage week tour 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

7. Na Piobair Uilleann 15 Henrietta Street, Dublin (2011)

15 Henrietta Street https://openhousedublin.com/locations/na-piobairi-uilleann-2/

No. 15 Henrietta St. consists of the remaining two bays of an originally four bay, four storeys over basement townhouse, with a red brick façade, of the early 1740s. It is located on a cul-de-sac containing the finest early Georgian houses in the city. The street is of unique European significance, being the single remaining intact example of an early-18th century street of houses, which was at the forefront of what was to become the Georgian style.

The building underwent significant restoration which was completed in 2007, and the 18th-century appearance of the interior, including much of the original joinery and plaster work, was restored. Perhaps the most important features of the house are the stucco ceilings on the ground and first floors which were restored in the 1980s.

The building is now the headquarters of Na Píobairí Uilleann, an international organisation involved in promoting the playing, the making, and the teaching of the Irish uilleann pipes. They now plan to reinstate No. 16 Henrietta St. next door.

Tours will include access to the ground floor formal reception rooms, including the rear reception room featuring a mid-18th century figured papier-mâché ceiling, depicting the Four Seasons and including busts of Shakespeare and Milton. Tours will continue up a staircase, belonging to the 1828 division of the house, to the Library and Archive of Na Píobairí Uilleann, the current occupants of the building.

Henrietta Street, Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Luke Gardiner (d. 1755), building developer, picture engraver John Brooks, Irish, after Charles Jervas, photograph courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
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Henrietta Crofts, Duchess of Bolton (1682-1730) as shepherdess, by James Maubert. Henrietta Street was named in her honour. Vicereine 1717-1720. She was the daughter of James Crofts (Scott), 1st and last Duke of Monmouth, illegitimate son of King Charles II. She married Charles Paulet, 2nd Duke of Bolton.

See also the wonderfully informative book, The Best Address in Town: Henrietta Street, Dublin and its First Residents 1720-80 by Melanie Hayes, published by Four Courts Press, Dublin 8, 2020.

Henrietta Street, October 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

8. Nellies Flat, Iveagh Buildings (Open House 2014)

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/nellies-flat/

Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Iveagh Trust buildings were commissioned by Edward Cecil Guinness 1st Earl of Iveagh in 1901. He provided houses and amenities for working-class people with low incomes in Dublin. The architects were Joseph and Smithem, London architects. The centrepiece of the buildings, built to house people who lived in the slums about St. Patrick’s cathdral, was the Iveagh Baths.

Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Open House website tells us that Flat 3B, Bull Alley Estate on Patrick Street is a cosy flat comprising a living room and two bedrooms. It was once home to the Molloy family and built by The Iveagh Trust.

The Iveagh Trust replaced some of the worst slum dwellings in Europe. And, at the time, these new flats were state of the art. Nellie, their daughter, was one of six children. She lived here in this flat from 1915 right up until to 2002. Today, flat 3B is a museum and remains unchanged since the trust first built Bull Alley Estate.

Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The range, in Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Child of Prague and St. Christopher in the alcove. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Religion was more dominant in peoples’ lives in those days than it is generally in Irish people today! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8, picture of Nelly and her family. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Iveagh Trust flat, Iveagh Trust buildings on Patrick Street, Dublin 8. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

9. Pigeonhouse Power Station and hotel (2021)

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/pigeon-house-power-station/

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The vast ruin of the former Pigeon House power station is the one of the most striking industrial architecture complexes in the city and is now one of the largest protected structures in Ireland. Built in three main phases (1902-03, 1911-1913 and 1933-40; decommissioned in the 1970s), the power station was constructed of red brick and steel, and later of reinforced concrete. These layers of exposed fabric show how the building was constantly modified to keep up with increasing electricity demand.
Today, only one of the 12 chimneys remain and the ruins of the power station resemble the atmospheric drawings of classical ruins by the 18th century Italian artist Giovanni Battista Piranesi. The vast ruin of the former Pigeon House power station is the one of the most striking industrial architecture complexes in the city and is now one of the largest protected structures in Ireland. Built in three main phases (1902-03, 1911-1913 and 1933-40; decommissioned in the 1970s), the power station was constructed of red brick and steel, and later of reinforced concrete. These layers of exposed fabric show how the building was constantly modified to keep up with increasing electricity demand.
Today, only one of the 12 chimneys remain and the ruins of the power station resemble the atmospheric drawings of classical ruins by the 18th century Italian artist Giovanni Battista Piranesi.

Join to 30-40 minute tour. Exterior of building only. This tour is pre-book only and booking opens 14 September.

The old Pigeonhouse Hotel. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The old Pigeonhouse Power Station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Old Pigeonhouse power station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Pigeonhouse power station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Pigeonhouse power station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Pigeonhouse power station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Pigeonhouse power station. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

10. Royal College of Surgeons, Dublin (Open House 2011)

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/open-house-at-rcsi-123-st-stephens-green/

William Dease sculpture, one of the founders of the Royal College of Surgeons, Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Royal College of Surgeons was built in two phases, first by architect Edward Parke, who built what is now the last three bays on the south side and five bays deep on York Street. This was subsumed later by architect William Murray, who added four bays to the north and moved the pediment to the new centre of the building, on St. Stephen’s Green. The facade has large round-headed windows separated by freestanding columns. The pediment has the royal arms, and is topped with three statues: Athena (goddess of Wisdom and War), Asclepius (god of Medicine) and Hygiea (Goddess of Health), all by John Smyth [Archiseek]. It has a rusticated basement storey.

The interior, as listed in Lewis’s guide in 1837, contains a large board room, a library, an apartment for general meetings, an examination hall, several committee rooms and offices, lecture theatres and three museums, two of which have galleries.

There is a top-lit gallery with Adamesque plasterwork.

Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
My father looks at the fireplace, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Open House, 2011, Royal College of Surgeons. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

11. Tailor’s Guild Hall, Dublin (Culture Night 2013)

Tailor’s Guild Hall, 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

https://openhousedublin.com/locations/tailors-hall/

Tailor’s Hall was built in 1706 and is the only Guild Hall from the medieval guilds still in existence in Dublin. It is two storeys over basement and the hall inside is lit by tall round-headed windows on both sides, and has two floors of smaller rooms. It is now the headquarters for An Taisce. It was originally the meeting hall for the Guild of Merchant Tailors, from 1706-1841.

It was used in 1792 as the meeting place for the Catholic Committee during their campaign against Penal Law, and for this the building earned the nickname of “Back Lane Parliament.” Later still, it was used as a meeting place for the United Irishmen around 1798.

From Christine Casey, The Buildings of Ireland: Dublin, 2005, p. 367:
1703-1707, Richard Mills overseer. The Tailors’ Guild Hall is a tall shallow red brick building with a steep roof and dormer windows, a large gabled chimneystack and stair compartment projecting from the rear or N. wall. The entrance front is the long S elevation, reached by a stone arch and forecourt from Back Lane. In the 18th century the Hall was concealed behind houses on High Street and Back Lane and preceded only by the narrow arched pathway and a basement area. This unusual sequestered position is explained by the fact that the site was formerly occupied by a Jesuit chapel and college, endowed in 1629 by the Countess of Kildare. Seized by the Crown in 1630, it was subsequently repossessed by Lord and Lady Kildare and returned to the Jesuits who remained here for an unknown period prior to 1706…Tailors’ Hall is substantially early 18C. However, curiosities in the design and [p.368] structure suggest that it may incorporate something of the fabric of the 17C chapel.

The most striking feature of the facade is its asymmetry. Four tall narrow round-headed windows lighting the assembly hall fill almost two-thirds of the facade. To their right the facade is of two storeys and three bays with the entrance on the left next to the hall framed by an elegant rusticated limestone door surround of 1770. The basic arrangement reflects a pragmatic medieval-based system of hall and upper chamber, common in London livery halls of the late C17… A granite base-mould divides the brick masonry of the principal floor from the basement walling, which is largely of Calp with a band of brick forming the slightly cambered heads of the basement windows.”

Casey, p. 368: “the finest feature of the interior is the staircase, which is an elaborate open-well type with a low moulded handrail, barley sugar banisters and later square newels.” They are hand carved. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Tailor’s Guild Hall, Heritage Week 2013: p. 368, Casey: “an elegant double-height brightly lit hall with a fine early C18 Ionic reredos at the W end bearing the name of guild masters, a handsome marble chimneypiece…and at the east end a bowed draught lobby with a curious Gothic pelmet and above it a Late Georgian Neoclassical wrought-iron balcony reached from the room above the entrance hall.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Tailor’s Guild Hall, Heritage Week 2013. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.archiseek.com/2010/1715-mansion-house-dawson-street-dublin/

[2] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/building-of-the-month/the-mansion-house-dawson-street-dublin-2/ 

[3] National Library and Archives digital repository.