Dunluce Castle (ruin), County Antrim, Northern Ireland

I am republishing this as a separate entry. Sorry not to have a Section 482 property to write about this week – still one to write up, and we haven’t been visiting as we’ve been looking for our own house to buy in the countryside – it won’t be a Georgian house, unfortunately! I hope to get back to visiting Section 482 properties eventually….

https://discovernorthernireland.com/things-to-do/dunluce-castle-medieval-irish-castle-on-the-antrim-coast-p675011

Dunluce Castle Co Antrim by Robert French, Lawrence Collection National Library of Ireland, flickr constant commons.
Dunluce Castle by Matthew Woodhouse 2015 for Tourism Ireland [1]

The website tells us:

With evidence of settlement from the first millennium, the present castle ruins date mainly from the 16th and 17th centuries. It was inhabited by both the feuding MacQuillan and MacDonnell clans. Historical and archaeological exhibits are on display for public viewing.

Opening Hours: Please check before visiting as public access may be restricted.

We visited in June 2023.

Dunluce, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Before the MacDonnells, the area was inhabited by the MacQuillan family. The area was called “The Route” meaning small private army. They built a castle in around 1480. Around 1540, Rory MacQuillan looked for help from mercenaries to help him to hold his area. They hired the MacDonnells, who came from the Scottish island of Islay in the 14th century. The MacDonnells soon overthrew the MacQuillans and took control of Dunluce Castle.
The early MacDonnell story.

The storyboards tell us that Colla MacDonnell was head of the clan and overthrew the MacQuillans, and that when he died in 1558, Dunluce passed to his brother, Sorley Boy MacDonnell. The MacDonnells had more castles up along the coast. Sorley Boy had to spend much time in battle defending his territory. In 1565 he was captured by Shane O’Neill and held hostage for two years.

Sorley Boy married Mary O’Neill, daughter of Conn Baccach O’Neill (1484-1559), 1st Earl of Tyrone. Families intermarried to form alliances.

In 1563, an expedition of the Walter Devereux, 1st Earl of Essex, massacred Sorley Boy’s troops on Rathlin Island, across the bay from his castle, when they had fled there for safety.

Dunluce Castle was captured in 1584 by John Perrot, Lord Deputy of Ireland. Sorley Boy’s troops scaled the cliffs to attack and recapture the castle. Sorley Boy surrendered to Queen Elizabeth in order to be rewarded his lands again, under “Surrender and Regrant.” Sorley Boy died in 1589.

Sir John Perrot, (1527-1592) said to be a son of King Henry VIII, Soldier and Lord Deputy of Ireland, Date 1776 Engraver: Valentine Green (English, 1739 – 1813); Copyist: George Powle, (English, fl.1764-1771), courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
Portrait of Elizabeth I, Queen of England (1503-1603) Date c.1560, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

The sign boards tell us that after Sorley Boy’s death in 1589 he was succeeded by his third son, James. James died in 1601 and was succeeded by his brother, Randall Arranach MacDonnell (1556-1635). He fought against the English in the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, but later sought to regain favour with the crown and again surrendered and was regranted the lands of “the Route” and the Glens of Antrim, owning 330,000 acres. He was made Viscount Dunluce in 1618 and Earl of Antrim in 1620.

The story of Randal Arranach MacDonnell, d. 1636, 1st Earl of Antrim. His name “Arranach” refers to the fact that he was brought up by a foster family in the Scottish Isle of Arran. It was common for one family to foster the children of another, to solidify social and political bonds.

Mark Bence-Jones writes in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses:

(McDonnell, Antrim, E/PB) The ancestral stronghold of the McDonnells, Earls of Antrim, dramatically situated at the end of a rocky promontory jutting out into the sea off the north Antrim coat. The castle, which was built at various periods from C14 to C17, eventually consisted of several round towers and a gatehouse with rather Scottish bartizans, joined by a curtain wall, with domestic buildings inside this enclosure. The latter included a mid-C16 loggia with sandstone columns, and a two storey Elizabethan or Jacobean house, with three large oriels. These two buildings were first of two courtyards into which the castle enclosure was divided; the other and lower yard containing offices and servants’ quarters. There were also buildings on the mainland, erected early C17. In 1639, part of the curtain wall of the castle collapsed into the sea, together with some of the servants’ quarters and a number of servants. After the Civil Wars, the castle was abandoned by the family in favour of Glenarm Castle, it is now a romantic ruin.” [2]

The entrance to the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The entrance was like a funnel. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The entrance is still imposing. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Part of the gate house built by Sorley Boy MacDonnell in the late 1580s. It would have had a drawbridge. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The castle perches on the cliff. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from the castle in one direction up the coast. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Dunluce, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from the castle in the other direction. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The structure consisted of the gatehouse and a curtain wall, with domestic buildings inside the enclosure. Signage tells us that Sorley Boy MacDonnell built the Scottish style gate house. About forty years later, Randal MacDonnell built a manor house, by 1620, inside the enclosure, of which we can see remnants. It was of two or three storeys and had three large oriel windows.

Signage about Manor House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Remnants of the Manor House of Dunluce Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Oriel windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Oriel windows have been reconstructed, I believe. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Remnants of the manor house and surrounding walls. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Remnants of the Manor House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A picture of what the castle may have looked like inside.
We saw this, a reproduction fireback of an original from Dunluce Castle, in Ballygally Castle. The fireback was commissioned by Randall MacDonnell around 1603. It has a heraldic leopard, a Tudor rose for England and a thistle for Scotland. It may commemorate King James VI of Scotland becoming James I of England. Under James I, Randall MacDonnell became the first Earl of Antrim. The fireback was discovered at Dunluce in 1929 and this copy was cast for the descendant of the 1st Earl, and his children installed in in Ballygally when they purchased Ballygally castle. The original has now been lost. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

As Mark Bence-Jones writes: “The castle, which was built at various periods from C14 to C17, eventually consisted of several round towers and a gatehouse with rather Scottish bartizans, joined by a curtain wall, with domestic buildings inside this enclosure. The latter included a mid-C16 loggia with sandstone columns, and a two storey Elizabethan or Jacobean house, with three large oriels. These two buildings were first of two courtyards into which the castle enclosure was divided; the other and lower yard containing offices and servants’ quarters.

Signage tells us that it was not just a castle that was located on the cliff but a whole town, established by Randal MacDonnell (1556-1635), 1st Earl of Antrim, in 1608.

Archaeologists have recently unearthed remains of merchants’ houses and a forge, cobbled streets 11 metres wide, and an array of personal artefacts.

Coins were unearthed from the time of King James I (1603-1625). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Samples of pottery unearthed at the site. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
More pottery unearthed. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A diorama of how Dunluce may have looked. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Setting up the town at Dunluce. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Dunluce, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1642 Dunluce was burned to the ground. At that time, the next generation, Randal Macdonnell (1610-1682) 1st Marquess of Antrim and 2nd Earl of Antrim inhabited the castle, with his wife Katherine Manners, who was the widow of George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham.

The town as well as the castle was devastated in the 1641 Rebellion.
Randal Macdonnell, 2nd Earl of Antrim.
Katherine was painted by Rubens.

Before walking across to the Castle, you pass remains of ancilliary buildings.

The Lodgings, for visitors. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ancilliary buildings to the castle.

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en

[2] p. 116. Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

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