Rappa Castle, Co Mayo – ruin

Rappa Castle, Co Mayo – lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 238. (Knox/IFR) An early or mid-C18 house, consisting of a three storey centre block of four bays, with two storey, two bay wings. Centre block and also wings had high-pitched gable-ended roofs, with tall chimney stacks in the gable ends. Demolished 1937, now a ruin.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

p. 110. “A late 17C gable ended house with diagonal chimneystacks. In 1814 the seat of Annesley Knox. Dismantled 1937. Now a ruin.”

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31303003/rappa-castle-bunaneraghtish-co-mayo

Gateway, extant 1896, on a symmetrical plan comprising pair of drag edged rusticated limestone ashlar piers on “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cushion courses on plinths having “Cavetto”-detailed blocked shallow pyramidal capping supporting spear head-detailed wrought iron double gates with drag edged rusticated limestone ashlar outer piers having “Cavetto”-detailed blocked shallow pyramidal capping supporting spear head-detailed wrought iron railings. Now disused. Road fronted at entrance to grounds of Rappa Castle. 

Appraisal 

A gateway forming part of a neat self-contained group alongside an adjacent gate lodge (see 31303002) with the resulting ensemble not only making a pleasing visual statement in a sylvan street scene at an entrance on to the grounds of the Rappa Castle estate, but also illustrating the continued development or “improvement” of the estate in the later nineteenth century. 

http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2017-09-01T14:26:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=8&by-date=false 

WEDNESDAY, 1 MARCH 2017 

Rappa Castle 

Crossmolina, Co. Mayo 

&  

The Mias Tighearnain 

A picture containing indoor, sitting, large, metal

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The Mias Tighearnáin  

Many times when in Dublin, I visit the National Museum of Ireland and head straight to the first floor. There I find an ancient artifact known as the Mias Tighearnáin or St. Tiernan’s Dish, which is now displayed  in a glass case but would have originated in Crossmolina, Co. Mayo. I always stand back and study it for a few minutes, looking for further clues to an ancestor of mine that once owned it, maybe seeing something that I missed previously. The ancestor in question was my great, great grandfather, Annesley Arthur Knox who died in 1897 and who lived in Rappa Castle near Crossmolina in Co. Mayo. A mysterious man, a contradiction, an enigma who took many secrets to the grave with him. Despite having died over 120 years ago, his influence on our family has trickled down through the generations to me today. This artifact in the glass case, known as the Mias Thighernáin, is one of the few things that I know that he held in his hands and would have been housed  in the now bare walls of the ruins of Rappa Castle. Another interesting aspect to this story is that Oscar Wilde’s father would have visited Rappa Castle in the mid 1800’s to study this artifact which is meant to have the power to turn one’s face to the back of their head if  a lie was told when swearing upon it. 

A castle on top of a house

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Rappa Castle as it was in the 19th Century, the home of  
the Knox Family found near Crossmolina, Co. Mayo. Copyright: ICHC 

The Mias Tighearnáin, an alms dish, was said to have been dug out of the grave of St. Tiernan near Errew Abbey beside Lough Conn in Crossmolina, Co. Mayo. There are a number of stories of how it was found including local folklore which says that it was found in Lough Conn when it floated to the surface having lay at the bottom of the lake for centuries. Researchers have differed over the age of the object, as it could possibly date from anywhere between the 6th and 14th centuries, also it appears to have been repaired, embellished and damaged many times over the years. It was preserved for a number of years in the family of O’Flynn who were said to have been the hereditary wardens of Errew. They were induced in the 18th century during a hard summer, when provisions were expensive, to sell it to Francis Knox of Rappa Castle located near Crossmolina. In later years during the 1800’s the relic was used by the peasantry of the area for the act of swearing upon with the consent of Mr. Knox. It was said to possess the miraculous power of causing the face of anyone who did not tell the truth, when swearing upon it, to turn round to the back of their head. When the Parish Priest of Kilmore in Erris heard about this practice he had it removed from the people who were using it. The priest brought it to Ardnaree Barracks and the members of the Royal Irish Constabulary had it returned to the Knox Family who were told in no uncertain terms to put an end to this practice. Around this time, the superstition grew up that the Mias  Tighearnáin brought misfortune to those who trafficked in it, whether true or false, the Knox family of Rappa endured a great deal of sadness and their former home is in ruins today.At the time of Griffith’s Valuation the Rappa estate included six townlands in the parish of Bekan and one townland in parish of Aghamore, barony of Costello and at least three townlands in each of the parishes of Ardagh,Ballysakerry and Kilfian, barony of Tirawley, county Mayo. In 1876 the Rappa Estate consisted of 6,855 acres in county Mayo and 724 acres in county Galway 

A large stone building with grass and trees

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The private burial ground of the Knox Family of 
Rappa Castle which despite being a unique surviving 
feature of the estate is unrecorded and is not  
protected in any way by local authorities. Copyright: ICHC 

In “ A Guide to Irish Country House”, Rappa Castle located near Crossmolina in Co. Mayo  is described as an early or mid-eighteenth century house consisting of a three storey centre block of four bays with two storey wings on either side. The centre block and the side wings also had high pitched gable ended roofs, with tall chimneys in the gable ends. The castle was once home to the Crofton family with a castle being built on the site in the fifteenth century by the Burke family. It eventually came in to the ownership of a gentleman by the name of Francis Knox who was resident in the castle in 1798 and previously in 1786 the house was mentioned as being ‘the pleasant seat of Mr. Knox’. Francis Knox was the third son of Francis Knox of Moyne Abbey and Dorothy Annesley. Francis died in 1813 having married and produced six sons and six daughters. He was succeeded by his eldest son Annesley Gore Knox who died in 1839. He had married Harriett in 1793 who was the sister of Sir Ross Mahon. Harriett and Annesley had eight sons and five daughters.  The eldest surviving son inherited Rappa, also named Annesley was succeeded by his son Captain Annesley Arthur Knox. 

In 1841, the Mias Tighearnáin was exhibited by W.R. Wilde at the Royal Academy in Dublin having been lent to him by Annesley Knox. William Robert Wills Wilde, was an Irish doctor who specialised in afflictions of the eyes and ears and was also the father of the famous literary figure, Oscar Wilde. He had a particular interest in the archaeology and folklore of ancient Ireland which explains his interest in the Mias. Again in 1846, the Mias Tighearnáin was brought before the Royal Irish Academy by W.R. Wilde and at this time two very accurate drawings of the artifact were made and deposited in the pictorial catalogue of the museum of the academy. It appears that Doctor Wilde was extremely interested in the piece and concerned about its safety, as in 1851, the Mias Tighearnáin  was deposited in the Museum of the Royal Academy, at the insistence of Dr. Wilde. However it was noted later that the relic was returned to Mr. Knox of Rappa Castle. 

A person posing for the camera

Description automatically generated, Picture 
William Robert Wilde, the father of 
Oscar Wilde, whom took an interest 
in the Mias Thighernain. 

In 1882, a visitor to the castle found the Mias Tighearnáin  in the procession of Captain Annesley Arthur Knox. They give the following description of their visit and the relic ‘The owner of Rappa Castle, a landlord against whom nothing in the way of blame is said, was assuredly of as much interest to us as the relics which his house possessed. A tall, fine looking, kindly faced man, rosy with health, courteous and pleasant, came into the room. We told our errand and the Captain went for the Mias Tighearnáin and placed it in our hands. It is evidently only part of the original dish, the socket where the upper part rested being still there. It is very heavy, formed of three layers of thin bronze bound at the edge with brass – evidently a later thought, and done for preservation. There are three bands of silver across it, which show the remains of rich figuring. There was originally a setting of three stones, one of which still remains and looks as if it might be amber. It is as large as a soup plate. Something is among the layers of metal which rattles when shaken. It is one of the oldest relics in the country. Whoever made it had no mean skill in the art of working metals. According to a certain Father Walsh it was used to wash the saint’s hands in at mass. This dish, after lying at the bottom of Lough Conn for a hundred years, come up to the surface and revealed itself. It has been used as a revealer of secrets ever since it came in to the hands of the Knox family. We requested afterwards to see the clock of Moyne Abbey, and were taken by the courteous captain across the other rooms to the flagged kitchen, where the clock ticked as it has done for 300 years – or since the abbey was dismantled, how long before history hath not recorded. The case of some dark wood beautifully carved. I thought it was bog oak, Captain Knox said mahogany, which would make the case to be much younger than the clock. The Captain assured us that it was the best time-keeper in the worked. It only requires winding once a month, used to show the day of the month, but some meddler disarranged that part of the machinery. The dial plate is of some white metal, brilliant and silvery. Captain Knox said it was brass, but I have seen things look more brazen that not so old.’ 

A dirt road in front of a house

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The gate lodge and entrance gates to Rappa Castle  
which survive today. Copyright: ICHC 

In 1897, Captain Knox died and his estate, castle and contents passed to his nephew Ronald Annesley Knox who was only a six year old child at the time. Captain Knox had a brother Ross, the father of Ronald, but he was by passed in favour of his son. Captain Knox’s will was probated in Dublin by the executors of the will, Richard Francis Knox of Thornfield, Ballina and Charles Knox Kirkwood of Bartra House, Killala, Co. Mayo. His estate was valued at £4,342 3s 6d. In 1900 the estate was being administered in the Chancery Division of the High Court. The Mias was now in the custody of the Accountant General and it was noted that he ’had not, so far made an order for its sale‘. The importance of this relic was recognised at this time as Sir Thomas Esmonde, wished for the Chief Secretary to ask the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland if he would make inquiry as to the possibility of procuring it for the National Museum in Dublin. Captain Knox left his estate to his nephew Ronald Knox on his attaining the age of 25 years. In the intervening period Ronald’s father, Ross Mahon Knox, had the use of Rappa Castle, plate , furniture, vehicles and harness together with a yearly allowance of £300. Ross Mahon Knox had married Violet Florence May Knox Gore in 1890 in Killala Cathedral, who was also a cousin, her father originating from Broadlands, a Knox house located near Ballina.  Their son Ronald was born in 1891 and a daughter Una in 1895. Violet, Ross and their children now occupied Rappa Castle after the death of Captain Knox, but were visited with much misfortune. It appears that Ross and Violet did not have a happy marriage and in 1903 Violet left Rappa Castle taking her two children with her. It was said she returned to her native Cork due to the violent nature of her husband. Ross initiated legal proceedings to have the children returned and was successful. However Ross and Violet’s daughter Una died a year later in 1904, in her grandfathers house in Youghal, Cork aged only ten years and by 1907, Ross and Violet had separated for good. It is recorded in the 1911 census that Violet was now living in Park House in Youghal in Cork with her father. In 1916, Ronald Knox came of age and was now in control of Rappa Castle however he never enjoyed good health and died in 1918 of TB. He was buried with his sister on the hill near Rappa Castle where many generations of the family had been interred. His father, Ross, also succumbed to the same disease as his son and died in 1920. Ironically it was the one person that was banished from Rappa Castle who would inadvertently come to own it and determined its future. It appears that Ross and Violet had never divorced and as a result Rappa Castle, land and its contents including the Mias Tighearnáin came into her ownership after the death of her estranged husband. It appears that Violet intended to sell everything, in October 1921, an advertisement appeared for the sale of the rabbits of the estate and for further particulars, the manager of the castle was to be contacted. In 1923 the timber around the demesne was sold which included a large quantity of ash, beech, larch and scots pine, in total about 1,500 tress were on offer. Permission was also given by Violet Knox to set up a temporary saw mill. In December 1924, Violet put the contents of the castle up for sale and sold the castle with its remaining land to the Land Commission. Bitterness existed in the extended members of the Knox family, as Violet sold a number of items that were in the Knox family for generations. She was classed as an ‘outsider’ despite the fact that she was a cousin of her husband and that her grandfather would have originated from Rappa Castle also. 

A castle on top of a lush green field

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Rappa Castle in ruins today after it was dismantled  
in the 1930’sCopyright: ICHC 

In January 1925, Violet Knox, (Ross’s widow), married Thomas Dodd Lowther of Queen Ann’s Mansions Westminster London. It is obvious that she took the Mias with her to England as it later appeared for sale in London.   It was said that the reason the sale occurred outside Ireland was that Violet wanted  to make it as difficult as possible for it to be purchased by the Knox’s or the National Museum of Ireland. In December 1930, it was reported in the press ’that an ancient alms dish which was brought to London by the last of the Knox family’ was to be sold at the Grafton Galleries.  It was said to have been sold for between £750 and £800 as accounts differ. In October 1934, Mrs. V.F.M. Knox Lowther of London and formerly of Glasgow and late of Castlerea and Rappa Castle, Co. Mayo, wife of Thomas Dodd Lowther died and left a personal estate in Britain valued at £11,992. Rappa Castle fell in to disrepair after 1925 and by 1938 was dismantled and had its roof removed. The Mias had been purchased by the Marquees of Bute and became part of his private collection at Mount Stewart, Rothesay, Isle of Bute in Scotland until in 1999, it was purchased by the National Museum of Ireland. The Mias did return briefly to Mayo in 2004 when it was displayed in the Museum of Country Life in Castlebar. 

http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2014-07-13T01:28:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=39&by-date=false 

SATURDAY, 26 APRIL 2014 

Rappa Castle, 
Co. Mayo 
&  
Moyview 
Co. Sligo 

My interest in Irish country houses and castles stems from researching the history of my family and their connection with two houses, Rappa Castle in Mayo and Moyview in Sligo. 

Rappa Castle in the 1890’s(Picture David Hicks) 
A castle on top of a lush green field

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Rappa Castle lies in ruins today (Picture Copyright David Hicks) 

In “ A Guide to Irish Country House”, Rappa Castle located near Crossmolina in Co. Mayo  is described as an early or mid-eighteenth century house consisting of a three storey centre block of four bays with two storey, two bay wings. The centre block and the side wings also had high pitched gable ended roofs, with tall chimneys in the gable ends. The castle was once home to the Crofton family with a castle being built on the site in the fifteenth century by the Burke family. It eventually came in to the ownership of a gentleman by the name of Francis Knox who was resident in the castle in 1798 and previously in 1786 the house was mentioned as being ‘the pleasant seat of Mr. Knox’. Francis Knox was the third son of Francis Knox of Moyne Abbey and Dorothy Annesley. Francis died in 1813 having married and produced six sons and six daughters. He was succeeded by his eldest son Annesley Gore Knox who died in 1839. He had married Harriett in 1793 who was the sister of Sir Ross Mahon. Harriett and Annesley had eight sons and five daughters.  The eldest surviving son inherited Rappa, also named Annesley who was succeeded by his son Captain Annesley Arthur Knox who was stationed in India with the army.  

Harriet Knox, my great grandmother and the daughter of Captain Annesley Knox of Rappa Castle (Picture Copyright David Hicks) 

This castle was once the home of my great grandmother Harriet Knox who was the daughter of Captain Annesley Arthur Knox, the landlord in the area at the time. It was said that Captain Knox mixed little in public affairs but in the hunting field his personality made a good impression with many people. In Harriet’s bible she records the death of her father at Rappa Castle on 8th April 1897. She obviously was very fond of her father as she refers to him as ‘ my own darling dad’ which was extremely affectionate for the reserved times. Captain Knox was master of the North Mayo Harriers and soon after his death a meeting of its members was held in the Moy Hotel in Ballina to express their deep grief at losing their master. 

The former gate lodge to Rappa Castle which survives today ( Picture Copyright David Hicks) 

At the time of Griffith’s Valuation the Rappa estate included six townlands in the parish of Bekan and one townland in parish of Aghamore, barony of Costello and at least three townlands in each of the parishes of Ardagh,Ballysakerry and Kilfian, barony of Tirawley, county Mayo. In 1876 the Rappa Estate consisted of 6,855 acres in county Mayo and 724 acres in county Galway The death of Captain Annesley Knox heralded the beginning of the end for Rappa Castle. His beloved daughter Harriet under the inheritance laws of the time was not allowed to inherit the estate. She was passed over in favour of the male line and as a result the estate passed to her uncle and his son, Ross and Ronald. 

On the day of his funeral, the carriages of the local gentry began to assemble at the castle together with the tenants of the estate. His coffin was placed in the hall of the castle where on the mantelpiece were placed items associated with his love of the hunt. Of the many wreaths that’s were placed upon the coffin was one from his daughter stating –‘In fond and loving memory, from Harrie’. Captain Knox is buried on a hill near the castle, where many members of the family have been interred and their monuments exist today in a dishevelled state. One month after the death of Annesley Knox an auction was advertised under the instructions of the executors of the late Captain Knox, the entire outdoor effects of the castle, cattle, sheep, farming equipment, carts and carriages went under the hammer. After this auction the entire grazing of the estate was to be let for eleven months which extended to over 400 acres. Also sold were Captains Knox’s horses which he used for hunting and it was noted in the auction literature Captain Knox was one of the best judges of horses in the hunter class in the west of Ireland. On the day of the auction which was attended by over 300 people who were all served lunch. At the time of the 1901 census, the castle was occupied by Ross M. Knox, his wife Violet, son Ronald aged 10 and a daughter Una aged 6. Also present in the castle were a governess and two servants. By 1911 only Ross and his son Ronald are present in the castle together with four servants.  

Harriet and her husband Arthur Hicks ( Picture copyright David Hicks) 

By 1901 Harriet aged 24 was living in Ely Place in Dublin and listed her birthplace as the exotic location of India and also lists herself as benefiting from a private income.  In 1911, Harriet had married Arthur Hicks and was living in Moyview at Rinroe in County Sligo with their three children and three servants. A year previously they had purchased the house and 159 acres for £1,210 where the family remained until the 1950’s. They first lived in Moyview Cottage but later built a two storey house nearby which survives today. Moyview Cottage was the former house of the Hon. Colonel Wingfield and from the 1850’s the house and estate was occupied by Robert Warren of Castlewarren in Cork. He was a leading expert on birds and during his time in Moyview he wrote extensively on this subject.  

The Hicks’s came to live in Moyview in County Sligo, first in Moyview Cottage shown above and later built a two storey house nearby shown below (Pictures copyright of David Hicks) 

The Knox’s left Rappa Castle in the 1920’s afterwards it was lived in by the Gillespie family. The upkeep of the castle became too great and it was dismantled in 1937 and now survives in a ruined state. One of the fireplaces from Rappa was installed in one of the homes of the Knox’s in nearby Killala. 

Newbrook, Co Mayo

Newbrook, Co Mayo – lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 223. “(Bingham, Clanmorris, B/Pb) A mid to late C18 house of two storeys over a basement, possibly by William Leeson. Seven bay entrance front, doorcase with blocked engaged Doric columns and pediment; broad flight of steps up to door. Adjoining front of seven bays, with three bay breakfront; centre windows in lower storey longer than those at the sides. The rooms are said to have been spacious but not very lofty. Irish battlemented tower in grounds. In 1837 the house was gutted by a fire with is said to have burnt for 8 days. Not rebuilt.”

Letters from Georgian Ireland: The Correspondence of Mary Delany 1731-68.

Ed. Angelique Day, foreward by Sybil Connolly. The Friar’s Bush Press, Belfast, UK, 1991.

p. 131. 27 Oct 1732. “I writ to you from Mr Bingham’s, we staid there Tuesday and Wednesday, and were very merry. Left that place on Thursday morning, and dined at another Mr Bingham’s [at Newbrook, Claremorris] about eight miles from Castlebar, uncle of the Mr Bingham we left – a very good, agreeable sort of man, extremely beloved by all the gentlemen of the country; his wife – a plain, country lady, civil, hospitable and an immoderate lover of quadrille; their two eldest daughters are beauties – reserved, well-behaved, but not entertaining, so we passed the day hum-drumish.

The next morning we decamped, and travelled to Tuam; nothing happened on the road remarkable, sometimes I rode, but generally went in the chaise with Phil, that being the way I like best. We got early into our inn, played at my lady’s hole, supped and went early to bed.

The next day we arrived at Mrs Mahone’s [Castlegar], staid there Sunday and Monday, were free and easy, lived as at Killala, everybody went their own way, we danced and sung, and were entertained in a very handsome, friendly manner. We left them Tuesday morning; jogged on through bods, and over plains, and about three miles from the place were to rest, we passed a fine place called Aire’s Court [Eyrescourt in Galway], a great many fine woods and improvements that looked very English.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Netley Park, Ballina, Co Mayo – ruin 

Netley Park, Ballina, Co Mayo 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 222. “(Knox/IFR) A compact late-Georgian house built ante 1816 by Capt H.W.Knox, more or less the twin of nearby Greenwood Park, which was built by his brother. Of two storeys over basement; three bay entrance front, tripartite fanlighted doorway with blocking; four bay side. Hall with staircase at back of it. Drawing room wallpaper now at Williamsburg, USA. Passed eventually to Edit (née Knox), wife of J.E. F. Rowlette. Demolished 1962, now a ruin.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

The Neale, Ballinrobe, Co Mayo

The Neale, Ballinrobe, Co Mayo – lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 222. “Browne, Kilmaine, B/PB) An early C18 house of two storeys over basement which replaced an old castle. Seven bay entrance front; pedimented porch on two columns, up broad flight of steps. Five bay side elevation, Small windows with thick glazing bars. Balustraded roof parapet, which was removed when the house was re-roofed 1860s. Doors with shouldered architraves in hall. Oval of mid C18 rococo plasterwork in centre of drawing room ceiling, surrounded by early C19 reeded mouldings entwined with foliage and fan decoration in corners. Mid C18 plasterwork frieze in dining room, with putti, cornucopias, swags and fruit. After he succeeded 1907, 5th Lord Kilmaine enlarged the house by building a free standing wing at an angle to it, so as not to take light from the windows; and joined to it by a curved bridge. Fine stables, built ca 1737 by Sir John Browne, 5th Bt, MP, father of 1st Lord Kilmaine. Well-planted park laid out by 1st Lord Kilmaine 1770s, divided by a large outcrop of rock (in the Irish aill, hence the name The Neale). The park contains a stepped pyramid designed by Lord Charlemont, an octagonal Doric temple and another C18 folly, probably made up of fragments of medieval carving with a strange inscription, known as “The Gods of the Neale.” 5th Lord Kilmaine sold The Neale to a former tenant of the estate 1925. The house was demolished ca 1939, the follies remain.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31312101/neale-house-nealepark-neale-mayo

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Remains of country house, built 1737; extant 1777; “improved” 1908, comprising: Detached four-bay two-storey wing on an L-shaped plan with single-bay (west) or two-bay (east) two-storey side elevations. Occupied, 1911. Sold, 1925. Mostly demolished, 1939. Vacant, 1945. Now in ruins. Remains of hipped slate roof on an L-shaped plan on collared timber construction with clay ridge tiles, ivy-covered rendered yellow brick Running bond chimney stacks with capping now missing, and remains of cast-iron rainwater goods on dragged cut-limestone “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice with downpipes now missing. Part ivy-covered fine roughcast walls over coursed rubble limestone construction with drag edged dragged cut-limestone quoins to corners. Square-headed window openings with some retaining drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed yellow brick block-and-start surrounds with no fittings surviving. Square-headed door opening (north) with cut-limestone threshold, and drag edged dragged cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on triple keystone with no fittings surviving. Interior in ruins. Set in unkempt grounds. 

Appraisal 

An increasingly-ruined wing not only surviving as a relic of an eighteenth-century country house annotated as “The Neale [of] Browne Baronet” by Taylor and Skinner (1778 pl. 217), but also clearly illustrating the continued development or “improvement” of the country house for John Edward Deane Browne (1878-1946), fifth Baron Kilmaine, to a design attributed to Cecil Arthur Fowler (b. 1876) of Kilkenny and Sligo (IAA). 

Paddy Rossmore. Photographs. Edited by Robert O’Byrne. The Lilliput Press, Dublin 7, 2019. 

“[Temple] This is one of a number of follies created at Neale Park, County Mayo, longtime seat of a branch of the Browne family, created Barons Kilmaine in 1789. Known as the Temple of the Winds, it is of relatively late date, some of teh other buildings in the park dating to the eighteenth century: there is, for example a stepped pyramid some thirty feet high erected by the first Lord Kilmaine, seemingly to a design of his brother-in-law, the architecture loving first Earl of Charlemont. Dating from 1865, the hexagonal temple rests on the vaults of an earlier, unfinished tower and it is unclear whether the later structure was ever completed, since it lacks a roof….1925 when Neale Park was sold and the demesne divided up: the greater part of the house was demolished in 1939 and teh surviving wing is now a roofless shell.” 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31312102/neale-house-nealepark-neale-mayo

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Freestanding monument, dated 1750; extant 1838, on a square plan. “Restored”, 1990. Set in unkempt grounds shared with Neale House. Additional photography by James Fraher 

Appraisal 

A stepped pyramid erected by John Browne MP (d. 1762), de jure fifth Baronet Browne of The Neale, to a design attributed to James Caulfield (1728-99), first Earl of Charlemont (Bence-Jones 1988, 222), as a memorial to George Browne MP (d. 1737), de jure fourth Baronet Browne of The Neale: meanwhile, observations pertaining to ‘the nucleus of a cairn…maybe that erected over Slainge himself’ (Wilde 1867, 240-1) pinpoint the archaeological potential of the composition. 

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31312103/neale-house-nealepark-neale-mayo

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Freestanding folly, erected 1865; extant 1894, on a hexagonal plan with dragged cut-limestone Doric columns supporting “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice on “Triglyph”-detailed frieze on entablature. Set on mound in unkempt grounds shared with Neale House. Additional photography by James Fraher 

Appraisal 

A “Temple of the Winds” folly erected by John Cavendish Browne (1794-1873), third Baron Kilmaine, atop the vaulted footings of an unfinished tower begun (1785) by John Browne MP (1726-94), first Baron Kilmaine. 

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31312104/neale-house-nealepark-neale-mayo

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Freestanding folly, dated 1753; extant 1782. Set in woodland in grounds shared with Neale House. Photography by James Fraher 

Appraisal 

A beguiling folly widely regarded as an intriguing component of the eighteenth-century built heritage of south County Mayo [National Monument 0359]: the inscription, ‘so nonsensical and complicated that one must reach the conclusion…that the entire object is merely the product of the peculiar humour of some former Lord Kilmaine’ (ITA 1945), reads: “The Irish Characters On The Above Stone Import/That In This Cave We Have By Us The Gods Of/Cons Bordtieiss Lett Us Follow Their Stepps Sick/Of Love With Full Confidenc In Loo Lave Adda/Yackene The Shepherd Of Ireland Of His Eraan Di/These Images Were Found In A Cave Behind The Place They/Now Stand And Were The Ancient Gods Of The Neale Which Took Its/Name From Them They Were Called Diane Ffeale Or The Gods/Of Felicity From Which The Place In Irish Was Called Ne Heale/In English The Neale LL Reignd AM 2577 PD 927 Ante c1496 And/Was Then 60 Œdna Reignd AM 2994 And 64 Of Edna Was ???? Con Moil Was Ye Son Of Heber Who/Divided This Kingdom With His Brother And Had The/Western Parts Of This Island For His Lott All Which Was/Originally Called From Con Conought Or Cons Portion/And His Son Loo Laveadda Who Founded The Druids Was/Thought To Have Drawn All His Knowledge From The Sun/Thus The Irish History NB The Smaller Letters On The Upper/Part Of The Great Plinth Import That It Was Erected By Edna/Loos Gods Were Adopted By Con And Edna Of The Line Of Heber Established/Their Worship Here/1753”. 

The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
The Neale, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Moore Hall, Ballyglass, or Cong, Mayo – ruin

Moore Hall, Ballyglass, or Cong, Mayo – lost 

Moore Hall, County Mayo, entrance front c. 1965 courtesy Lord Rossmore. Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 210. “(Moore/LGI1912) A large late C18 house of three storeys over basement on a peninsula in Lough Carra; built 1795 by George Moore, who had made a fortune in Malaga and whose radical son, John, was appointed President of the Provisional Government of Connaught by Gen Humbert, commander of the invading French force 1798. Entrance front with two bays on either side of a central breakfront rather similar to that at Tyrone House, County Galway, with triple window framed by short fluted pilasters on console brackets above a Venetian window above the entrance doorway; which here is beneath a shallow single-storey Doric portico, whereby at Tyrone there is a porch of two storey Ionic columns. The top of the portico was treated as a balcony, with an ironwork railing. Solid roof parapet; massive die in centre. The house and its surroundings feature in the writings of George Moore, whose house it was. It is now a gaunt ruin, having been burnt 1923; various plans to rebuilt it on a smaller scale for George Moore’s brother, Senator Col. Maurice Moore, came to nothing. When George Moore died 1933, his ashes were buried on an island in the lough here; ferried across in a boat rowed by Oliver St. John Gogarty, who soon regretted having volunteered as an oarsman. “First off came my silk hat, the frock coat and…” Gogarty recalls. “I presume you will retain your braces,” said Moore’s sister, who sat in the stern of the boat,  holding the urn.” 

Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy Mark Bence-Jones.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31310009/moore-hall-muckloon-or-moorehall-co-mayo

Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached five-bay (three-bay deep) three-storey over part raised basement country house, built 1792-5; dated 1795, on a symmetrical plan centred on single-bay full-height breakfront with (single-storey) prostyle tetrastyle Doric portico to ground floor; six-bay full-height rear (north) elevation. Occupied, 1911. Vacant, 1921. Burnt, 1923. In ruins, 1925. Hipped roof now missing with paired lichen-covered limestone ashlar central chimney stacks on axis with ridge having cut-limestone stringcourses below capping supporting terracotta or yellow terracotta octagonal pots. Part creeper- or ivy-covered fine roughcast walls on lichen-covered tooled cut-limestone chamfered cushion course on fine roughcast base with drag edged rusticated cut-limestone quoins to corners including drag edged rusticated cut-limestone quoins to corners (breakfront) supporting dragged cut-limestone “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice on blind frieze below parapet centred on inscribed dragged limestone ashlar “die” date stone (“1795”). Round-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement behind (single-storey) prostyle tetrastyle Doric portico approached by flight of eleven benchmark-inscribed cut-limestone steps with dragged limestone ashlar columns having responsive pilasters supporting “Cavetto”-detailed cornice on roundel-detailed frieze below wrought iron parapet. “Venetian Window” (first floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and cut-limestone surround with pilasters supporting “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice centred on archivolt. Square-headed window opening in tripartite arrangement (top floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and cut-limestone surround with stop fluted pilasters on fluted consoles supporting “Cavetto” cornice. Square-headed window openings with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed cut-limestone voussoirs with no fittings surviving. Interior in ruins including (basement): groin vaulted cellars; (ground floor): bow-ended central entrance hall with central door openings in segmental-headed recesses retaining decorative plasterwork “fan vaulted” overpanels, and rosette-detailed dentilated plasterwork cornice to ceiling. Set in wooded grounds. 

Appraisal 

The shell of a country house erected to a design attributed to John Roberts (1712-96) of Waterford (DIA) representing an important component of the late eighteenth-century domestic built heritage of County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, one recalling the Roberts-designed Tyrone House (1779) in County Galway, confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate alignment maximising on panoramic vistas overlooking Lough Carra; the compact near-square plan form centred on a Classically-detailed tripartite breakfront carrying the Moore family motto (“FORTIS CADERE NON POTEST [A Brave Man May Fall But Cannot Yield]”); the definition of the principal floor as a slightly elevated “piano nobile”; the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression; and the parapeted roofline. Although reduced to ruins during “The Troubles” (1919-23), an act of vandalism recounted in detail in “The Moores of Moore Hall” (1939), the elementary form and massing survive intact together with remnants of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior including, remarkably, some decorative plasterwork enrichments highlighting the now-modest artistic potential of the composition. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (extant 1838); a polygonal walled garden (see 31310010); and the nearby “Grand Gate” (see 31310011), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having historic connections with the Moore family including George Moore (1729-99); John Moore (1767-99), President of the Provisional Government of Connaught (fl. 1798); George Moore (1770-1840), author of “The History of the British Revolution of 1688-9” (1817); George Henry Moore MP (1810-70) of the short-lived Independent Irish Party (formed 1852; dissolved 1858); George Augustus Moore (1852-1933), author of “A Mummer’s Wife” (1885), “A Drama in Muslin” (1886) and “Esther Waters” (1894) and assistant founder of the Irish Literary Theatre (1899); and Senator Colonel Maurice George Moore (1854-1939), ‘Late First Battalion Connaught Rangers’ (cf. 31310012). 

Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

https://archiseek.com/2012/1785-moore-hall-co-mayo

1785 – Moore Hall, Co. Mayo 

Architect: John Roberts 

Also known as Moorehall, the house was constructed between 1792 and 1795. The Moores were originally an English Protestant family but some became Catholic when John Moore married the Catholic Jane Lynch Athy of Galway, and when their son, George, married Katherine de Kilikelly, an Irish-Spanish Catholic, in 1765. Several members of the Moore family went on to play major parts in the social, cultural and political history of Ireland from the end of the eighteenth century to the early twentieth century. The house was burned down in 1923 by anti-Treaty irregular forces during the Irish Civil War because then current owner Maurice Moore was viewed as pro-Treaty. 

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

p. 110. “A large three storey house built 1795 for George Moore. The house is similar to Tyrone House, County Galway. Burnt in 1923. Now a ruin which has been stabilised.”

Irish Castles and Historic Houses. ed. by Brendan O’Neill, intro. by James Stevens Curl. Caxton Editions, London. 2002:

The ruin of Moore Hall, the Georgian home of a celebrated Mayo family, is situated on a promontory overlooking Lough Carra. The best known members of the family are John (1763-99), who was appointed president of the Provisional Republic of Connacht during the French invasion of 1798, George Henry (1811-70), MP for Mayo and one of the leaders of the Tenants Right Movement, and George (1852-1933), a novelist.

Featured in Irish Country Houses, Portraits and Painters. David Hicks. The Collins Press, Cork, 2014.

p. 167. Maurice was the second son of George Henry Moore and both he and his elder brother [the writer George Moore] had a difficult relationship: times of great affection were followed by periods when they would blatantly ignore each other for months and sometimes years on end. Maurice, the younger brother, was seen as a safe pair of hands and if he had inherited Moore Hall it might still stand today. However, George was the elder son and under the laws of succession he became the rightful heir to the Moore Hall estate. George did have some affectino for his Mayo home but it was Maurice who had a deep-rooted respect for his father’s legacy and strove to keep the Moore estate intact. Arguments often stemmed from teh fact that Maurice was the landlord by proxy but it was George’s money taht paid the bills. George, as the elder brother, was entitled to have the final say over the management of Moore Hall; however, he also thought that this right extended to his brother and his family.  When the tentacles of his requests began to intrude into Maurice’s personal life, disagreements naturally occurred. ..At the time that Moore Hall burnt down in 1923, itwas Maurice who was recalled with great affection. 

p. 168. George was active in the Irish Literary Renaissance of the early 1900s after becoming a successful author, despite an early ambition to become an artist. While in Paris pursuing his artistic ambitions, he wrote about the impressionist painters and befriended many of them, such as Edouard Manet and Edgar Desgas. Moore, deciding he had no talent as a painter, moved to London in the 1880s where he began his literary career adn produced some of his best-known works, including Esther Waters. He became an accomlished author, credited with creating the genre of fictional autobiography and also published a number of works of poetry. During his tiem in Dublin in he early 1900s he befriended many in the Irish artistic and literary world, such as George Russell (A.E.), Nathaniel Hone, Walter Osborne, W.B. Yeats, Douglas Hyde and Lady Gregory. As a result of these associations he was involved in the setting up of the Abbey Theatre in Dublin before returning to live in London for the rest of his life.

The story of the Moore family and their great house in Mayo begins in the 18th century with an ancestor, George Moore, who decamped from Mayo to Alicante in Spain to make his fortune in the wine trade, a task in which he had succeeded by the mid 1700s. When he had amassed a substantial fortune, he returned to Ireland and began to buy up land in his native county. The Moore family originated from Ashbrook House near Straide in County Mayo and when George’s brother died he inherited the house and lands. He was considering renovating and improving Ashbrook but, on a tour of the country to look for suitable land in which to invest, he came across Muckloon Hil, overlooking Lough Carra. He purchased the property and lands, which amounted to 800 acres, from the MacDonald family. George began to clear some of the woods on th hill and in 1792 a large, square Georgian mansion began to rise on the hill. The inclusion of a first-floor balcony may have been inspired by the time that George had spent in Spain but he had no accounted for the wind and rain in Mayo, which allowed him to spend little time on it. Teh house and estate eventually passed to George’s grandson, George Henry Moore. He married Mary Blake, the daughter fo Maurice Blake of Ballinafad House (and named their second son after his maternal grandfather). George and Mary’s union produced five children: George in 1852, Maurice 1854, Augustus 1856, Nina in 1858 and Julian in 1857. At this time George Henry and his family lived at 39 Alfred House in London which he had leased while a Member of Parliament. George Henry made a hasty return to Moore Hall in April 1870 where disputes were raging with tenants over rent reductions. There in his ancestral home he died and was buried in the nearby family burial ground of Kiltoom. This event brought the estate into [p. 170] his eldest son, novelist George Moore; however, the circumstances surrounding their father’s death would lead to a dispute between himself and his younger brother Maurice in later years.

p. 170. The house was supposedly designed by Waterford architect John Roberts, a Protestant, who also designed Tyrone House in Clarinbridge in County Galway. Roberts is notable for designing Waterford’s Catholic and Church of Ireland cathedrals as well as a number of other significant buildings in Waterford. 

p. 173. In 1901 George Moore, after spending 21 years in England, returned to Ireland, setting up home in Dublin. He had been inspired by his cousin Edward Martyn who told him that artistically great things were happening in Ireland. Moore Hall was entrusted to his brother’s capable wife as Maurice was still stationed abroad with the army. This generosity by George came with a number of strings attached: he felt entitled to meddle in his brother’s family’s life. This need to try and control his brother and nephews was probably due to the lack of a family of his own. George reworked his will to include or exclude his nephews depending on how well they were progressing in their study of the Irish language. George wanted his nephews to be Irishmen of the highest calibre and in 1901, suggested to his brother that he pay for a “a nurse straight from Arran,” believing that an Aran islander was necessary to teach teh next generation of the Moore family to speak Irish properly. The ladies transported from Aran did not fit easily into Maurice’s household. Teh quality of their teaching and their standards fo cleanliness left Maurice’s wife in despair. 

In 1903 George publicly renounced teh Catholic faith and yet again decided to reorganise his brother’s family accordingly, desiring that one of his nephews be brought up in the Protestant faith. In July 1905 he tried to persuade Maurice to let him sell the lands of their estate under the terms of the 1903 Wyndham Act. Maruice was successful in convincing his brother not to sell but the issue fo selling the estate woudl ot go away….Money had begun to cause trouble between the brothers since Maurice’s retirement from the army. Maurice was now living on a full-time basis at Moore Hall and he began to try to put the house and estate back in order.

[lots of sad arguments between brothers – George wanted his nephews to be raised Protestant, and Maurice disagreed, and George bankrolled repairs and improvements. Finally George asked Maurice to move out and he did. Maurice would still use the house occasionally, via the steward, James Reilly, unbeknownst to George. George published that their father killed himself, appalling Maurice. Maurice became a senator, and allowed those fighting the English to be billeted in the house during the War of Independence.]

p. 177. “By the winter of 1922 the house was not being lived in… In 1923 a group of local men arrived at teh door of the gate lodge and ordered James Reilly to hand over the keys to Moore Hall. They made their way up the hill to the house, awkwardly lugging bales of hay and drums of petroleum and paraffin. …It is a matter of some debate whether or not items were looted from teh house but six hours later the roof of the house crashed in, causing the burning interior to collapse down, leaving a mound of debris 14 feet deep on the ground floor.

p. 178. “George made no hesitation in laying the blame for the burning of the hosue to his brother… [he wrote in a letter to the Irish Times] “I tried to disassociate my home from politics and for that reason Colonel Moore has not visited Moore Hall for the last twenty years [he did not know Maurice had visited]. His acquiescence in his election to the Seanad and the speeches he has delivered in the Seanad are no doubt the cause of the burning.”

George would have received more money [in compensation] had he considered rebuilding Moore Hall, but, as he wrote to a friend, “Since the burning of my house, I don’t think I shall every be able to set foot in Ireland again.” He sold the remaining land to the Congested Districts Board in 1927 but Maurice could not let the family home an dlands go and entered into an arrangement which allowed him to purchase 300 acres of land and the ruin of the mansion for £1,300….

Maurice hoped that he might be able to restore the house by selling timber from the woods and the rent he would receive from the remaining lands…p. 179. However, the trees were unsuitable for felling so Moore Hall remained a ruin. Early in 1932, George Moore died. His substantion £75,000 fortuen would have been large enough for a restoration of Moore Hall had the bulk gone to a single heir; however, while his will contained many bequests, he left nothing to his brother Maurice or his nephew Rory. …

Maurice approached the Forestry Board with a proposal that it should take over the demesne but it declined. The estate was sold to John O’Haire, a timber merchant who cleared all the woods around the house. When O’Haire died, the Department of Forestry purchased Moore Hall and planted the front lawn and the rest of the site with conifers. Moore Hall became engulfed in a sea of evergreen and no longer enjoys views of the lake.”

http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2021/11/moore-hall.html

THE MOORES OF MOORE HALL OWNED 12,371 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY MAYOThe family of MOORE claimed descent from THE RT HON SIR THOMAS MORE, statesman and Lord Chancellor to HENRY VIII.

THOMAS MORE, born at Chilston, near Madley, in Herefordshire, married Mary, daughter of John ApAdam, of Flint, and had a son,

GEORGE MOORE, who settled at Ballina, County Mayo, Vice-Admiral of Connaught during the reign of WILLIAM III.

He wedded Catherine, daughter of Robert Maxwell, of Castle Tealing, Scotland, by Edith his wife, daughter of Sir John Dunbar, and was father of

GEORGE MOORE, of Ashbrook, County Mayo, living in 1717, who married Sarah, daughter of the Rev John Price, of Foxford, County Mayo, by his wife, Edith Machen, of the city of Gloucester, and by her had two sons,

George, of Cloongee;

JOHN, of whom we treat.

The younger son,

JOHN MOORE, of Ashbrook, County Mayo, born ca 1700, espoused Jane, daughter of Edmund Athy, and had issue,

Robert, dsp 1783;

GEORGE, of whom presently;

Edmund, of Moorbrook;

Sarah; Jane.

His second son,

GEORGE MOORE (1729-99), of Moore Hall, Ashbrook, and Alicante, Spain, married, ca 1765, Catherine, daughter of Dominick de Killikelly, of Lydacan Castle, County Galway, and had issue,

John, 1763-99;

GEORGE, of whom hereafter;

Thomas;

Peter.

The second son,

GEORGE MOORE (1770-1840), of Moore Hall, wedded, in 1807, Louisa, daughter of the Hon John Browne, sixth son of John, 1st Earl of Altamont, and had issue,

GEORGE HENRY, his heir;

John;

Arthur Augustus.

The eldest son,

GEORGE HENRY MOORE JP DL (1810-70), MP for County Mayo, 1847-57, 1868-70, High Sheriff of County Mayo, 1867, espoused, in 1851, Mary, eldest daughter of Maurice Blake, of Ballinafad, County Mayo, and had issue,

GEORGE AUGUSTUS, his heir;

Maurice George, CB, Colonel, Connaught Rangers;

Augustus George Martin;

Henry Julian;

Nina Mary Louisa.

He was succeeded by his eldest son,

GEORGE AUGUSTUS MOORE (1852-1933), of Moore Hall and Ebury Street, London, High Sheriff of County Mayo, 1905, who died unmarried.

George Henry Moore (Image: Wikipedia)

THE MOORES had originally been an English Protestant settler family.

The father of George Moore (1729-99), John Moore, converted to catholicism when he married Jane Lynch Athy from one of the principal Catholic families in County Galway.

Using her connections among the “Wild Geese,” Irish Jacobite exiles in Spain, Jane supported her son in getting established in the wine import business in Alicante, Spain.

He subsequently changed his religion, and married, in I765, Katherine de Kilikelly, an Irish Catholic raised in Spain.

George made his fortune and returned to erect Moore Hall in 1792, above the shore of Lough Carra.

“He thus solidified the shift of the family from being New English settlers of Protestant faith to their nineteenth-century identity as Irish Catholic landlords who had never been humbled by the “Penal Laws” — that set of regulations aimed at limiting the property and power of Irish Catholics, and put in force after William of Orange routed James II at the Battle of the Boyne in 1688.”

“The change in the confessional identity of the Moore family, like the circumstances of G H Moore’s death, is important to the story of George Moore. These matters would one day be the occasion of a quarrel about family history that broke up the surviving Moore brothers, saw Moore Hall become vacant, and scattered the last generation of Moores abroad.”

“Of the four sons of George Moore of Alicante, the eldest was John Moore (1763-99), a scapegrace trained in Paris and London for the law, and for a few days in 1798 the first President of the Republic of Connaught.”

“Aided by French invaders at Killala, John Moore participated in the surprise victory of General Humbert over a British garrison at Castlebar on 27 August 1798, assumed nominal leadership of the rebels, then got captured after the rout of the small Irish forces.”

“President Moore died while under house arrest in a Waterford tavern. The second son of Moore of Alicante was a mild-tempered man, also named George Moore. A gentleman scholar rarely out of his library, he wrote histories of the English and French revolution, something in the manner of Gibbon.”

“Moore the historian had three sons by Louisa Browne, the first being George Henry Moore, the only one of the three not to die by a fall from a horse.”

Moore Hall (Image: Robert French)

MOORE HALL, near Ballyglass, County Mayo, is a Georgian mansion built between 1792-6 by George Moore.

It comprises three storeys over a basement, with an entrance front of two bays on either side of a centre breakfront; including a triple window, and fluted pilasters on console brackets.

There is a Venetian window above the entrance doorway, beneath a single-storey Doric portico.

The house was burnt by the IRA in 1923, and is now a ruinous shell.

Colonel Maurice Moore, CB, had intended to rebuild the house, albeit on a smaller scale.

Moore Hall (Image: Comhar – Own work, Public Domain,
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11252115

Colonel Moore’s elder brother, George Augustus Moore, died in 1933, leaving  an estate valued at £70,000 (about £5.1 million in 2021).

His ashes were buried on Castle Island in Lough Carra.

http://www.buildingsofireland.ie/PlacesToSee/Louth/ 

Moore Hall  Moore Hall was built between 1792 and 1796 as the home of George Moore. The Moores were originally a Protestant family, although some members were subsequently converted to Catholicism. Some members of the family played a prominent part in the history of Ireland, particularly in Famine Relief in the 19th century. The house was burned down in 1923 during the Irish Civil War. The estate is now owned by the national forestry company Coilte and is a popular visitor site. 

George Moore (1727–1799), who built Moore Hall, originally came from Straide near Castlebar. During the time of the Penal Laws, George went to Spain where he was admitted to the Royal Court. From the 1760s until about 1790, George made his fortune in the wine and brandy trade, running his business from Alicante. When the Penal Laws were relaxed at the end of the 18th century, he returned to County Mayo with a fortune of £200,000 and in 1783, bought over 12,000 acres (49 km2) of land at Muckloon, Ballycally and Killeen from Farragh Mc Donnell, and commissioned the building of the grand residence of Moore Hall. 

George’s son, John Moore (1767–1799), was educated in France and became a lawyer. With the rebellion of 1798, he returned to Mayo. General Humbert appointed him President of the Connacht Republic in Castlebar. Thus, John Moore was the first President of an Irish republic, albeit for a very brief interval. He was captured by the English Lord Cornwallis, and although initially sentenced to death, his sentence was later commuted to deportation. He died in the Royal Oak tavern in Waterford on 6 December 1799. His body was exhumed from Ballygunnermore Cemetery in Waterford in 1962 and brought to Castlebar, where he was buried in the Mall with full military honours. 

George Henry Moore(1810–1870), was educated in the Catholic faith in England and later at Cambridge University. His main interest was in horses and horse-racing. His brother,Arthur Augustus, was killed after a fall from the horse Mickey Free during the 1845 Aintree Grand National. At the height of the Great Irish Famine in 1846, he entered a horse called Coranna for the Chester Gold Cup and netted £17,000 from bets laid on the horse. During the Famine he imported thousands of tons of grain to feed his tenants, and gave each of his Mayo tenants a cow from his winnings. It is still remembered on the Moore estate that nobody was evicted from their home for non-payment of rent during hard times, and that nobody died there during the Famine. George Henry is buried in the family vault at Kiltoom on the Moore Hall estate. 

George Augustus Moore (1852–1933), was a distinguished writer of the Irish Literary Revival period. Many famous writers of the time, including Lady Gregory, Maria Edgeworth, George Osborne, and W. B. Yeats were regular visitors to Moore Hall. George was an agnostic, and anti-Catholic.[4] His ashes are buried on Castle Island on Lough Carra in view of the big house on the hill.[3] 

Maurice George Moore (1854–1939), Senator Colonel Maurice Moore was the statesman of the family. He served with the Connaught Rangers in the Boer War and became concerned with human rights in South Africa. He also worked to relieve Irish prisoners held in English jails, and for the retention of UCG. He was also involved with the co-operative movement in Ireland, founded by Horace Plunkett. 

On February 1st next it will be 95 years since Moore Hall, County Mayo was needlessly burnt by a group of anti-treaty forces during the Civil War. Since then the building has stood empty and falling ever further into ruin. Moore Hall’s history was discussed here some time ago, (see When Moore is Less, June 30th 2014), and at the time it looked as though the house, dating from the 1790s, had little viable future. For many years the surrounding land has been under the control of Coillte, the state-sponsored forestry company, which displayed no interest in the historic property for which it was responsible. However, yesterday Mayo County Council announced it had purchased Moore Hall and 80 acres. The council proposes ‘to develop the estate as a nationally important nature reserve and tourism attraction’, its chief executive declaring this will ‘ensure that the natural, built and cultural heritage of Moorehall is protected yet developed and managed in a sustainable manner for current and future generations.’ Further details have yet to be provided, but one initiative Moore Hall’s new owners could immediately undertake is to clear away the trees that now grow almost up to the front door, thereby reopening the view to Lough Carra and explaining why the house was built on this site. 

Extracted from a letter written by George Henry Moore of Moore Hall, County Mayo to his mother Louisa (née Browne) on 6th May 1846: 
‘My dearest Mother, 
Corunna won the Chester Cup this day. We win the whole £17,000. This is in fact a little fortune. It will give me the means of being very useful to the poor this season. No tenant of mine shall want for plenty of everything this year, and though I shall expect work in return for hire, I shall take care that whatever work is done shall be for the exclusive benefit of the people themselves. I also wish to give a couple of hundred in mere charity to the poorest people about me or being on my estate, so as to make them more comfortable than they are; for instance, a cow to those who want one most, or something else to those who may have a cow, but want some other article of necessary comfort; indeed I will give £500 in this way. I am sure it will be well expended, and the horses will gallop all the faster with the blessing of the poor…’ 

Moore Hall dates from 1792 and is believed to have been designed by the Waterford architect John Roberts whose other house in this part of the island, Tyrone, County Galway is also now a gaunt ruin. The Moores were an English settler family originally members of the established church who converted to Roman Catholicism following the marriage of John Moore to Mary Lynch Athy of Galway. Their son George Moore, who likewise married an Irish Catholic, moved to Spain where through his mother’s connections with various Wild Geese families, he became successful and rich in the wine export business. In addition he manufactured iodine, a valuable commodity at the time, and shipped seaweed from Galway for its production, owning a fleet of vessels for this purpose. 
Having made his fortune, George Moore then returned to Ireland and bought land to create an estate of some 12,500 acres. He commissioned a residence to be built on Muckloon Hill with wonderful views across Lough Carra below and the prospect of Ballinrobe’s spires in the far distance. Fronted in cut limestone, Moore Hall stands three storeys over sunken basement, the facade centred on a single-bay breakfront with tetrastyle Doric portico below the first floor Venetian window. A date stone indicates it was completed in 1795, three years before Ireland erupted in rebellion. Among those who took part was George Moore’s eldest son John who after being schooled at Douai had studied law in Paris and London had returned to Ireland where he joined the uprising. On August 31st 1798 the French general Jean Joseph Humbert issued a decree proclaiming John Moore President of the Government of the Province of Connacht. However within weeks the British authorities had crushed the rebellion and captured Moore who died the following year while en route to the east coast where he was due to be deported. George Moore, who had spent some £2,500 attempting to secure his heir’s release, had died just a month earlier. 

Moore Hall now passed into the hands of its builder’s second son, also called George Moore. A more studious character than his brother, he is known as an historian who wrote accounts of the English Revolution of 1688 (published in 1817) and, on his death, left behind the manuscript of the history of the French Revolution. He married Louisa Browne, a niece of the first Marquess of Sligo, and the couple had three sons, one of whom died at the age of 17 after a fall from his horse. The same fate would befall the youngest child, Augustus Moore when at 28 he was taking part in a race at Liverpool. He and the eldest son, another George, had set up a racing stable at Moore Hall and become notorious for their fearless recklessness. But this George Moore had an intelligent and sensitive character – while still a teenager he was publishing poetry – and following the death of his brother and the advent of famine in Ireland in the mid-1840s he turned his attention to Moore Hall and the welfare of its tenants. The letter quoted above shows that after his horse Corunna won the Chester Cup in May 1846 he used the proceeds to make sure no one on his land suffered hardship or deprivation. In 1847, having already participated in calling for an all-party convention to work for the betterment of Ireland, he was first elected to Parliament where he proved to be a deft orator (his background as a youthful poet came in handy) and an ardent advocate of the country’s rights: he spoke in favour of the Fenians and was an early supporter of the Tenant League, established to secure fair rents and fixity of tenure in the aftermath of the famine. But his philanthropy was George Moore’s undoing. In the spring of 1870 his Ballintubber tenants withheld their rents, judging he would not dare retaliate. Since Parliament was sitting at the time, he returned from London to settle the matter and four days later died as a result of a stroke. 

And so Moore Hall passed to the next, and final, generation, being inherited by another George Moore, one of the greatest prose stylists Ireland has produced, a decisive influence on James Joyce and many another Irish author since. Today his contribution to this country, as well as that of his forebears, is insufficiently appreciated, but during his long lifetime George Moore was recognised as a great writer, as well as a serial controversialist. If he is no longer as celebrated as was once the case, then Moore must accept at least some responsibility for this state of affairs since he was given to creating and maintaining feuds with those who by rights should have been his allies. In his wildly entertaining, if not always credible, three-volume memoir Hail and Farewell he explained, ‘It is difficult for me to believe any good of myself. Within the oftentimes bombastic and truculent appearance that I present to the world, trembles a heart shy as a wren in the hedgerow or a mouse along the wainscotting.’ If no match for his father as a horseman, he inherited the latter’s bravado and audaciousness, and as a result created far too many enemies all of whom relished an opportunity to denigrate him. W.B. Yeats called Moore ‘a man carved out of a turnip’, while Yeats’ father considered Moore ‘an elderly blackguard.’ Middleton Murry described him as ‘a yelping terrier’ and Susan Mitchell ‘an ugly old soul.’ Yet they all had to acknowledge his genius. ‘When it comes to writing,’ declared Ford Madox Ford, yet another opponent, ‘George Moore was a wolf – lean, silent, infinitely sweet and solitary.’ The monument erected to him on Castle Island on Lough Carra rightly proclaims: 
‘George Moore 
Born Moore Hall 1852 died 1933 London 
He deserted his family and friends 
For his Art 
But because he was faithful to his Art 
His family and Friends 
Reclaimed his ashes for Ireland.’ 

In keeping with his character, George Moore always had an ambivalent relationship with Moore Hall. He wrote about it often, both in fiction and fact, but spent relatively little of his adult life in the place. For much of the time the estate was run by his younger brother Maurice with whom, like everyone else, he inevitably quarrelled. Unlike most Irish landowners of the era, however, he understood their time was drawing to a close, that the age of the big house was coming to an close and that the class into which he had been born would soon be no more. As he wrote to his brother in 1909, ‘The property won’t last out even my lifetime, that is to say if I live a long while and there will be nothing I’m afraid for your children…You always put on the philosophic air when I speak of the probable future and say “the future is hidden from us.” But the future of landlords isn’t in the least hidden from us.’ 
Nor was it, although the end was gratuitously harsh. On February 1st 1923 a local regiment of IRA men arrived at Moore Hall in the middle of the night, ordered the steward to hand over keys, moved bales of straw into the house, poured fuel over these and then set the place alight. It was a callous and philistine act which ignored the patriotic history of the Moores and lost the west of Ireland one of its finest Georgian residences. Many years later Benedict Kiely wrote in the Irish Times that he knew someone who had been present when Moore Hall was burnt and who could list various houses in the area containing looted furniture and other items. Envy and spite seem to have been the arsonists’ primary, if not sole, motivation. 
Ever since the building has stood empty, the surrounding land today owned by Coillte, a state-sponsored forestry company. With all the sensitivity one might expect from such an organisation, it has planted trees all around the house so that the view down to Lough Carra – the reason Moore Hall was built on this spot – cannot even be glimpsed. There was much talk some few years ago of restoring the building but no more and the final traces of its interior decoration, not least the delicate neo-classical plasterwork, are about to be lost. So this is how Ireland honours her own: more in the breach than in the observance. 

Killala Castle, Killala, Co Mayo – demolished

Killala Castle, Killala, Co Mayo – lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 169. “(Bourke/LGI1904) The Palace of the C of I Bishops of Killala, a tall plain three storey “L” shaped building with a gable-ended tower-like block at the end of one of its arms. The entrance door, near the angle of the two arms, was fanlighted, with some blocking, and flanked by two small side-lights. The castle was said to be ruinous 1787, but some repairs to it were arried out 1796 when, presumably, one of the arms was given its Wyatt windows. Soon afterwards the scholarly Bishop Joseph Stock came into residence, and a few months later (August 1798) the French landed at Killala. The castle was occupied by General Humbert and 300 French troops in 1798; but they treated the Bishop and his family with courtesy and consideration, leaving them undisturbed on the top floor, where the Bishop’s library and three principal bedrooms were situated. When Bishop James Verschoyle died 1834, the See of Killala was joined to that of Tuam, and Killala Castle ceased to be the episcopal residence (for the present residence, see Knockglass, Co Mayo); it then became a warehouse, and was demolished 1950 to make room for a housing estate.” 

Letters from Georgian Ireland: The Correspondence of Mary Delany 1731-68.

Ed. Angelique Day, foreward by Sybil Connolly. The Friar’s Bush Press, Belfast, UK, 1991.

p. 125. 21 June 1732, “Killala is a very pretty spot of ground; the house old, and indifferent enough, the sea so near us, that we can see it out of our window; the garden, which is laid out entirely for use, is pretty – a great many shady walks and full-grown forest trees. The Bishop has added a field, and planted it in very good taste; there are abundance of green hills on one side of the garden, on the other a fine view of the Bay, and main ocean behind it, and several pleasant islands.

One day Miss Don, Miss Forth, Mr Crofton, Mr Lloyd, and your Penny [her own nickname], mounted their horses to take the air! We rode very pleasantly for a mile by a sweet river, were caught in a smart shower of rain, took shelter in a cabin as I described to you some time ago. The master of it, the greatest bear that ever walked erect on two legs, his wife little better and that man is absolutely worth two thousand pounds a year; “muck is his darling”; poor miserable wretch! But, however, he had hospitality to receive us as civilly as his sort of manners would allow, made a good fire, and his wife gave us tea; the sky cleared, we took our leave, and returned home wisely moralising all the way and condemning the sordidness of the wretch we left behind us….. Monday we made visits to some of the townspeople. Tuesday we had a very clever expedition, the Bishop and I in a chaise, Mrs Clayton, Phill, and Miss Forth on [p. 126] horseback…. We went to a place about five miles off where the salmon fishery is [river Moy], the house put me in mind of Redgate [on the Fowey river near Liskeard] in Cornwall… We saw the river drawn as we stood in the garden, and a whole net full caught of salmon and trout. It was very good sport, but what was best of all, those salmon were dressed for our dinner, and we reglated very plentifully…Today we dined at Mr Palmer’s [Carrowmore House], a gentleman that lives a mile off, the only very agreeable neighbour we have; he is a very good sort of man, has a handsome fortune, his wife a civil, gentle, agreeable woman; they are very fond of one another, but both very melancholy in their dispositions; they were married some time and had no children, at last she had one son, which is so great a darling and so much spoiled, that I believe she’ll repent of her wishing so earnestly as she did for a son….” [they work in Killala on a shell grotto].  [she also writes in an entertaining manner of Killala fair day.]

[note that the Bishop is Robert Clayton, relative of Mary Delany’s friend Anne Donnellan. P. 24, Ed.Robert Clayton became bishop of Killala and Achonry in 1730, commissioned Richard Cassels to build a mansion in 1730 on the south side of Stephen’s Green. Note, 

http://www.ballyd.com/history/annedonnellan.htm

http://www.irishphilosophy.com/2019/04/07/the-triumfeminate-and-other-dublin-women-swifts-female-senate/

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

Clogher House, Ballyglass, Co Mayo – ruin

Clogher House, Ballyglass, Co Mayo -lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 85. “(Lynch/LG1863; Fitzgerald-Kenney/LGI1912) A three storey house of ca 1790 built by the Lynch family. Six bay front, two bay breakfront; tripartite pedimented and fanlighted doorcase. Rooms with ceilings of Adamesque plasterwork, including curved room. Passed by inheritance from the Lynch family to the Fitzgerald-Kenney family.”

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

p. 110. “A large three storey late 18C house with a good tripartite granite Tuscan pedimented doorcase. Good plasterwork in entrance hall and drawing room. Recently destroyed by fire. Now a ruin.”

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31310001/clogher-house-clogher-carr-by-b-carra-ph-co-mayo

Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached six-bay (three-bay deep) three-storey over part raised basement country house, built 1770; extant 1777, on a symmetrical plan centred on two-bay full-height breakfront; five-bay full-height rear (north) elevation centred on three-bay full-height “bas-relief” breakfront. Damaged, 1839. Occupied, 1911. Sold, 1967. Burnt, 1970. Now in ruins. Hipped roof now missing retaining fragments of slate finish with pressed or rolled lead ridges, paired rendered central chimney stacks on axis with ridge having cut-limestone stringcourses below capping supporting crested terracotta or yellow terracotta pots, and remains of cast-iron rainwater goods to front (south) elevation on creeper- or ivy-covered cut-limestone “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice with remains of cast-iron rainwater goods to rear (north) elevation on cut-limestone stepped cornice retaining cast-iron downpipes. Creeper- or ivy-covered fine roughcast walls on lichen-covered dragged cut-limestone chamfered cushion course on fine roughcast base. Round-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement approached by flight of six dragged cut-limestone steps, dragged limestone ashlar doorcase with engaged Doric columns supporting “Cavetto”-detailed pediment on fluted “Dosserets”. Square-headed window openings including square-headed window openings to rear (north) elevation centred on round-headed window opening (first floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed cut-limestone voussoirs framing concrete block infill with some retaining six-over-three (basement), nine-over-six (ground floor), six-over-six (first floor) or three-over-three (top floor) timber sash windows behind arrow head-detailed wrought iron bars. Round-headed central door opening to rear (north) elevation with drag edged dragged cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on keystone framing timber boarded door. Interior in ruins including (basement): groin vaulted cellars. Set in unkempt grounds. Additional photography by James Fraher 

Appraisal 

The shell of a country house representing an important component of the later eighteenth-century domestic built heritage of south County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, one annotated as “Clougher [of] Lynch Esquire” by Taylor and Skinner (1778 pl. 216), confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate skewed alignment maximising on scenic vistas overlooking a gently rolling grounds; the symmetrical plan form centred on a Classically-detailed doorcase demonstrating good quality workmanship; the definition of the principal floor as a slightly elevated “piano nobile”; and the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression. Although reduced to ruins in the later twentieth century, a prolonged period of exposure thereafter eradicating all traces of ‘[the] ceilings of Adamesque plasterwork’ (Bence-Jones 1978, 85), the elementary form and massing survive intact together with remnants of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior, including some crown or cylinder glazing panels in hornless sash frames. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (see 31310002); and a walled garden (see 31310003), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having historic connections with the Lynch family including Patrick Lynch (NUIG); the Crean-Lynch family including Andrew Crean-Lynch JP DL (1787-1853), one-time High Sheriff of County Mayo (fl. 1832); and Major Patrick Crean-Lynch JP DL (1814-81), one-time High Sheriff of County Mayo (fl. 1846); and the FitzGerald-Kenney family including Colonel James Christopher FitzGerald Kenney (d. 1877), ‘late of Clogher House Ballyglass County Mayo and of Merrion-square South Dublin’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1877, 382); and James FitzGerald-Kenney TD (1878-1956), ‘Magistrate [and] Barrister’ (NA 1911) and one-time Minister for Justice (fl. 1927-32). 

Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31310002/clogher-house-clogher-carr-by-b-carra-ph-co-mayo

Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Farmyard complex, extant 1838, including (south): Attached five-bay single-storey coach house-cum-stable outbuilding with half-attic on a symmetrical plan originally detached. Now in ruins. Remains of pitched slate roof on timber construction with no rainwater goods surviving on cut-limestone eaves retaining cast-iron downpipes. Lime rendered or roughcast coursed rubble limestone walls with concealed tooled cut-limestone flush quoins to corners. Segmental-headed central carriageway with drag edged tooled cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on triple keystone. Camber-headed flanking door openings with drag edged tooled cut-limestone block-and-start surrounds centred on triple keystones. Square-headed window openings with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills (ground floor), and concealed dressings framing eight-over-eight timber sash windows (ground floor) or louvered timber fittings (half-attic). Interior in ruins. Set in unkempt grounds shared with Clogher House. 

Appraisal 

A farmyard complex contributing positively to the group and setting values of the Clogher House estate. 

Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

 
http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=C 

is it this? 

According to Bence Jones this house was built circa 1798 though Wilson refers to a house at Clogher as the seat of Patrick Lynch in 1786. In 1844 Samuel Nicholson described Clogher House as “amongst the largest and the best in the Country, and appears to be kept in excellent order”. Patrick C. Lynch was leasing it from Sir Robert H. Blosse at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £40. It was in the ownership of the Fitzgerald Kenney family at the beginning of the 20th century and is now a ruin.   

http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/2019/ 

Clogher House 

Carra , Co. Mayo 

Clogher House in Co. Mayo was built in the 1770’s and existed for nearly 200 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1970. This house and estate were once part of a community of ‘Big Houses’ that existing in the Ballyglass area which included the Moores of nearby Moore Hall and the Blakes of Towerhill House. These land owning families were Catholic and in the 1860’s the tenantry of Moore Hall, Clogher and Tower Hill would meet at mass in the neabychapel at Carnacun. George Moore recalled that ‘they all collected around the gateway of the chapel to admire the carriages of their landlords‘. The Moore family pew was the first seat on the right hand side of the church with the Clogher pew behind it. However the landed families sat on the upper level of the church while the tenants sat in the main body of the church below them. Moore would also recall that the Clogher ‘girls‘ Helena, Livy, Lizy and May used to sit there. He also fondly remembered going to Clogher to gather cherries and how his father George Henry Moore was impressed by the inventiveness of the Clogher ‘girls‘ when they made a hearth rug for their dolls house from the skin of  dead mouse. In 1914, George Moore said that ‘a last Lynch lives his lonely life in Clogher‘ and also suggested that Clogher would make a fine home for the Franciscans. He thought this course of action was a good idea as ‘Lynch is a Roman Catholic: he has no children, what better could he do.’ The ‘last Lynch‘ as referred to by George Moore was James Fitzgerald-Kenney, who in 1913 stated that his ancestors, the Lynch Blosses, came to Clogher in 1720 from Castle Carra, a junior branch of the Lynch Blosse family baronets. They obtained leases of the Clogher estate, in the parishes of Burriscarra , Drum, Carra, Tagheen, barony of Clanmorris  in the County of Mayo, for 999 years from Sir Henry Lynch Blosse, 8th Baronet in 1788. James Fitzgerald-Kenney, in 1913, also referred to the old house of Clogher, inhabited by his ancestors up to 1780. He said that the Penal Laws at the time only allowed Catholics to live in houses of no more than one storey high so the laying of the foundations of the present Clogher House coincided with the relaxation of the these laws. The Lynch family of Clogher House had the rare privilege of having Papal authority to celebrate the ceremony of Benediction of the Most Blessed Sacrament in their house, it was said at the time to be a privilege enjoyed by very few. 

A house that has a sign on the side of a building

Description automatically generated, Picture 
A photo of the house possibly taken in the 1960’s 
from the Facebook page of Lost Buildings of Ireland who received it from William Fitzgerald Kenney 

Originally a smaller house when first built,  a storm in January 1839 resulted in a number of changes being made to the structure. The roof of the mansion was torn off in the storm known as ‘The Big Wind’ despite it being covered in heavy stone slates. As Clogher was left roofless, the opportunity was taken to remodel the house, add another story while replacing the roof. In 1844 Samuel Nicholson described Clogher House as “amongst the largest and the best in the Country, and appears to be kept in excellent order“. Clogher sat in a demesne of  640 acres, the structure was three-storey over part raised basement, with six bays on the entrance front incorporating a two bay break-front with tripartite pediment and fan lighted door-case. Internally, the house comprised of twenty-eight rooms incorporating a drawing room, library and chapel. The main reception rooms had ceilings of fine Adamesque plaster work and the front hall featuring an elaborate curved ceiling, which can be seen in some photographs below. 

Some surviving photos of the entrance hall of the house where the circular ceiling can be seen 

Copyright: The Architectural Archive 

Another family involved with the history of Clogher House was the O’Crean family, who were said to be of great antiquity. They possessed large estates in Co. Sligo but lost them during the time of religious persecution. The O’Creans formed alliances with many families and Henry Crean born in 1670, married in 1703, Catherine, daughter of Thomas Blake of Bolebeg, Co. Mayo. This union produced Andrew Crean, who in 1751 married Mary, daughter and heiress of Dominick Lynch, Newborough, Galway. Andrew assumed the additional name of Lynch. His only surviving son, Dominick Crean-Lynch married in 1784, Julia, the daughter of Martin Brown of Cloonfad, Co. Roscommon. Their eldest son, Andrew Crean-Lynch of Hollybrook married in 1811 Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of Patrick Lynch of Clogher House and in 1818, Clogher House is referred to as the house of the ‘late’ Patrick Lynch. It is also recorded that Andrew Crean-Lynch bought the Clogher estate from his brother-in-law Patrick Lynch. Andrew and Elizabeth’s union produced five children, Dominick born 1812 but died young, Patrick born 1814, Joseph born 1828 together with two daughters Mary and Ann. Patrick Crean-Lynch succeeded and lived at Clogher House. In 1828, an Edward Lynch of Clogher House is recorded as having died  followed in 1844 by Joseph Crean-Lynch who died aged only 17 years of age. His remains were interred at Thagheen Chapel near Hollybrook, Claremorris. During the Famine in 1847, it was said that no tenant of the estate died of hunger, however many did die of fever which then raged through the country. By the 1860’s ,Patrick Crean-Lynch was in financial difficulties and advertised for sale both his Hollybrook and Clogher estates. Part of the Hollybrook estate was in the parishes of Kilbennan and Kilconla, barony of Dunmore, county Galway. The Irish Times reported details of the purchasers of some lots in this sale though other lots were adjourned. Patrick Crean-Lynch was a Justice of the Peace, District Lieutenant, High Sheriff and a Major in the South Mayo Militia. He married in 1845, Marcella, the daughter of Sir Michael Dillion Bellew, this marriage produced four daughters but no male heir.  

An old stone building

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The tripartite pediment and fan lighted door-case  
Copyright: The Architectural Archive 

In August 1870, one of Patrick’s daughters, Helena Mary, married James Charles Fitzgerald-Kenney of Kilclogher, County Galway. so it was necessary that a marriage alliance was arranged between the Crean Lynchs and the Fitzgerald-Kenney’s. This marriage produced a number of children beginning  in June 1871, when  Marcella Jane Antonia Mary de Kenne was born in Number 2 Merrion Square. She was followed by William, born in November 1872, who was baptised William Lionel Crean Nicholas De Kenne in December of the year of his birth. In February 1875, at No. 2 Merrion Square,it was reported that a daughter, Helena Julia Olivia was born to James C. Fitzgerald-Kenney and his wife. She was baptised Helena Julia Olivia Anna De Kenne at St. Andrews Church on Westland Row. On Sunday, September 24th 1876 at Merrion Square, the wife of James Fitzgerald-Kenney Esq. of Kilclogher, Co. Galway and Clogher House, Co. Mayo gave birth to a son.  However tragedy struck when James Christopher Fitzgerald-Kenney, the husband of Helena Mary, died on the 31st October 1877 at Clogher House. He left an estate valued under £14,000 and it is noted that he is late of Clogher House, Co. Mayo, Kilclogher, Co. Galway and No. 2 Merrion Square, South Dublin. He was aged 58 at the time of his death. In November 1877, a newspaper notice was published which advertised an auction at Clogher House to include the extensive sale of 183 head of cattle sheep and horses together with carriages, hay and farming implements. Also offered for sale was the entire furniture of the house noted as formerly being the residence of Major Crean-Lynch.  The auctioneers also noted that they have been favoured with instructions from the representatives of the late J.C. Fitzgerald-Kenny. The man who go on to have a successful legal and political career in 20th century Ireland , was actually born after the death of his father. In April 1878, James Fitzgerald-Kenney was born in No. 2 Merrion Square and it is noted on his birth cert that his father was deceased. He was baptised James Christopher de Kenne Fitzgerald-Kenney on the 9th May 1878 in St. Andrew’s Church Westland Row. 

A group of people in a garden

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The breakfront and steps to the house 
Copyright ICHC 

On June 14th, 1894, Harry James Christopher Kenney died aged 20 as the result of an accident. He was the second son of the late J.C. Fitzgerald Kenny of Kilclogher Co. Galway and Merrion SquareDublin. He was described as popular young gentleman and was returning from the Ballinrobe Racces when the accident occurred. He had attended the races and had won two events but his lifeless body was found the following morning on the roadside near Clogher House. His horse standing on the roadside with its reins still in the hands of the deceased. After mass was celebrated in Clogher House, the cortege left the house at 3pm for interment in the family vault at Drum, a graveyard found within a mile of Clogher. It was reported that the house was’ literally besieged during the days of mourning , and was a telling proof of the affectionate regard in which this old Catholic family is held, the room in which the remains were laid, was constantly thronged with the old and young of the neighbourhood‘. As the coffin was borne out of Clogher House ‘ the vast multitude around gave expression to their feeling in a loud burst of sorrow. The large cortege of carriages, cars and the numerous peasantry that followed the remains, filled the avenue from the house to the entrance gate‘. The coffin was carried all the way to the graveyard on the shoulders of the tenantry who wore white scarves. Present at the funeral was the Archbishop of Tuam, a number of clergy from surrounding parishes and the Monks of Errew Monastery. Later in the month, a letter appeared in ‘The Western People’ owing to the false rumours regarding the death of Harry and stated that his death was as a result of a fall from his horse. It was also stated that the victim had a weak heart from childhood and was prone to sudden faintness or dizziness which may have caused the fatal fall.However the rumour that abounded at the time was that Captain Blake of nearby Towerhill and Harry had been drinking at the local pub in Carnacon. Captain Blake stated that he wished to marry Harry’s older sister, Harry let it be known that the Blake family were not thought of as being suitable to marry into his family. A number of hours later Harry was found dead on the side of the road near his home. 

A castle on top of a grass covered field

Description automatically generated, Picture 
The Rear Facade of Clogher House 
Copyright ICHC 

Prior to 1894, there appeared to be good relations between the Fitzgerald-Kenney’s and their tenants. However one year later in 1895, there were a number of hearings for ejectments to carried out on the estate for the recovery of rent arrears due to Mrs. Fitzgerald-Kenney of Clogher House. In the 1901 census the house is listed as being owned by Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney and that it extended to 28 rooms.  Residing in the house at this time is Helena, a widow aged 53, her daughter also named Helena aged 24, son James aged 22, a practicing barrister together two servants. It is noted that all Helena’s children were born in Dublin. In May 1903, Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney late of Clogher House died and  the probate of her will was granted to James Fitzgerald Kenney B.L. in the amount of £ 1,335 16s 2d. Clogher House and its lands passed to her son James. By 1911, James Fitzgerald-Kenney is still living in Clogher House with another sister Marcella who is a Local Government Board Inspector. In 1920, a long running dispute between the tenants of the estate and James Kenney came to sad conclusion. From 1913 there had been constant trouble around the Clogher estate and the RIC had to provide protection to the Fitzgerald-Kenney family members. James Fitzgerald-Kenney had refused to sell any of his lands to local tenants after which, the locals resorted to a boycott of the estate. The manager of the estate Michael  O’Toole had nine children and could not afford to stop working for the Fitzgerald-Kenneys and received a warning from the tenants of the estate.  As a result O’Toole and another man named Michael Ferrangher were attacked and beaten. O’Toole died of his injuries but Ferrangher survived for a short period before he succumbed. Michael Ferragher had worked on the estate for 26 years prior to his death as a coachman. The suspects who were thought to have carried out the beating were eventually released without charge. The families of the deceased men received compensation for their loss, yet the murders remained unsolved to this day. 

A group of people posing for a photo

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Mourners arriving at Glasnevin Cemetery for the burial service of Michael Collins in 1922.  Future Minister for Justice James Fitzgerald-Kenney of Clogher House, Co. Mayo is on the far left.  

In 1918, James Fitzgerald-Kenney proved counsel for Mr. Edward Martyn of Tulira Castle, Galway in an injunction that he took against a local farmer that was trespassing on this demesne. In 1934, it was reported that Miss Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney had placed her beautiful and ancient residence at the disposal of the Mayo Branch of the National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children for the branch’s annual general meeting. Helena J. Fitzgerald-Kenney was a member of the Mayo Executive of the I.S.P.C.C. and was a council member of the N.S.P.C.C. During Christmas 1949, an invitation was extended from Miss Helena Fitzgerald-Kenny for Midnight Mass to be celebrated at Clogher House. The mass was held in the drawing room which was transformed into an oratory for the occasion. The congregation was made up of staff and people from the area surrounding Clogher. After his mother’s death Clogher was home to James Fitzgerald-Kenney, Cumann na nGaedheal TD for South Mayo 1927-1944 and Minister for Justice 1927-1932. He had inherited Clogher through his mother’s family and made it his home until his death in 1956 together with his siblings. He was educated in Clongowes Wood College and University College Dublin were he graduated with a BA in 1898 and was called to the Irish Bar in 1899. He built up an extensive practice in Dublin and on the Connaught Circuit and was called to the Inner Bar in 1925. He joined the Irish National Volunteers in 1914 and was for a time an Inspecting Officer for South Mayo. In 1927, he was elected to the Dail, and shortly afterwards, following the shooting of the first minister for Justice, Kevin O’Higgins, he was appointed Secretary to the Minister for Justice. After the elections of September 1927, James was re-elected for South Mayo and became Minister for Justice. After his retirement in 1944 from politics, he resumed his legal practice and eventually retired to his farm at Clogher. James Fitzgerald- Kenney died aged 78 in 1956 in a Dublin hospital and his remains were removed from Dublin to Carnacon Church near Clogher with burial taking place in Drum graveyard near the house. James was predeceased by his brother, in August 1954, the death occurred of William Lionel Fitzgerald-Kenney at Clogher House. After his father’s death and being the eldest son, while still a minor, he inherited his father’s property at Kilclogher and Keelogues near Glenamaddy, Co. Galway. In 1900, he sold all his property having previously married in 1896, Josephine Delmas, the daughter of one of the foremost and best known lawyers, Delphin M. Delmas of San Francisco. William emigrated to California in 1902 to be near his wife’s relatives and lived there until he returned to Clogher House in 1949 where he lived until his death. James surviving sisters continued to live at Clogher House after his death. In October 1957, James’s sister Helena died , the chief mourners at her funeral were her sister Miss Marcella Fitzgerald-Kenney and Mrs. John Sweetman from Kells.  The Kenney-Fitzgerald family association with Clogher came to an end with the death of Marcella Fitzgerald-Kenney, who died in 1965 at the County Hospital in Castlebar. All the family members are buried at the nearby Drum graveyard. 
 

A person wearing a hat

Description automatically generated, Picture 
James Fitzgerald Kenney 

As a result of the death of the last Kenney-Fitzgerald sibling to live in the house, two years later in 1967, the contents of the Clogher were offered for sale at auction. This included the contents of the library that extended to over 3,000 books together with both Celestial and Terrestrial globes. The contents of the house was obviously extensive as it took four days to conduct the sale. In the auction catalogue from 1967, the following rooms and area’s in the house are mentioned,  the Library, the back drawing room, entrance hall, inner hall and staircase, four bedrooms and the top floor which had a full size billiard table. The house had an extensive library as the sale of its contents accounted for one full day of the four day auction. The books amounted to 3,000 copies that covered topics such as history, law, architecture,  medicine, agriculture, forestry, gardening, travel, trade and religion. There were books written by George and Maurice Moore who had lived on the neighbouring estate together with books by Douglas Hyde and Yeats. There was a copy of ‘ The Trials of George R. Fitzgerald and others held at Castlebar , taken from the notes of  a Gentleman’ dating from 1786. The architecture books appeared to contain a number of volumes regarding designs for ornamental cottages, rural cottages,  small villas, labourers cottages and farm cottages. Some of the medical books dated from the mid 1600’s and a large number of books dated from the 1700’s featured in the sale, which means they predated the house. As the books were so numerous, a large quantity were not listed, with some being sold by the shelf. The library also had a collection of maps which included an Atlas with geographical and historical accounts of the empires printed for Daniel Brown in London in 1721. There were also fifty sheets of maps of the maritime aspect of County Mayo. After the auction the house was sold to a timber merchant but unfortunately having survived the turbulent 1920’s in Ireland,  in January 1970, Clogher House was destroyed in a fire. At the time the house stood on 200 acres having once been surrounded by a demesne of 640 acres. Despite the efforts of fire brigades from Claremorris and Ballinrobe the house was reduced to ruins. It was said that strong gales on the night of the fire hampered efforts to save the house. Clogher was unoccupied at the time and was looked after by a caretaker who lived nearby. Today the house languishes in ruins and is slowly being reclaimed by nature. 

A close up of an old building

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Clogher House after it was destroyed by fire in 1970 

Castlerea, Killala, Co Mayo

Castlerea, Killala, Co Mayo -lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 74. “(Knox/IFR) Two storey late C18 or early C19 front, with four bays between two curved bows. Three storey five bay range at right angles, possibly earlier, ending in battlemented tower. Front flanked by high battlemented screen wall, with an imposing belfry and cupola rising above it.  In C18 the home of “Diamond” Knox, in C19, the home of L.E Knox, MP, who founded the Irish Times 1859. Sold 1936, demolished 1937.” 

Not in National Inventory

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

p. 110. … part of a crenellated stable wall remains. http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2016-11-17T07:30:00-08:00&max-results=7&start=13&by-date=false

TUESDAY, 16 AUGUST 2016 

Castlereagh 

Killala, Co. Mayo 

Castlereagh located near Killala, Co. Mayo was the ancestral home of the Knox family.  

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC  

One of the surviving features of Castlereagh is its gate lodge which was located next to the main gate, the entrance to the demesne. This entrance was found just below Palmerstown Bridge, but today nothing of the main gate remains. It was intended at one stage to align the bridge with this gateway however this pipe dream was never implemented. The main gate was removed during the 1930’s but the associated gate lodge remains and was lived in until the 1950’s. Castlereagh was the first Knox residence established in the area but the original structure was damaged in 1798 and as a result a new house was built. It possibly incorporated sections of the older building as it took the name of ‘castle’ from a tower that formed the left wing of the building. It would appear that a castle did indeed exist on the site as Castlereagh is the anglicised version of the Irish for grey castle, caislean riabhach.  In the eighteenth century when it was the home of John ‘Diamond Knox’, the house was described as a large mansion but it was remarked that it was ‘unbeautiful’. 

One of the surviving features of Castlereagh is one of its gate lodges. 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC  

The Knox family originally hailed from Scotland and came to Ireland when a William Knox settled in Donegal in the seventeenth century. This Donegal settler’s son named William Knox came to Killala in the Cromwellian period and had a son Arthur who married Hannah Palmer, a member of the family who gave their name to the nearby Palmerstown. Arthur Knox died in 1744 and is buried in St. Patricks Cathedral in Killala. His son John ‘Diamond’ Knox was born in 1728 and married Anne King in May 1750. John’s wife was extremely well connected as her father was Sir Henry King, and her mother was Isabella Wingfield of Rockingham, the sister of Viscount Powerscourt. John ‘Diamond’ Knox was branded with his unusual middle name due to the large dowry he gave his daughter upon her marriage which included a large suite of diamonds. He was a magistrate for Mayo, Sligo and Roscommon and was elected to Parliament in the 1760’s. He died in February in 1774 supposedly as a result of a riding accident and was buried in the family vault in Boyle Abbey. 

Portrait of Anne King who married John ‘Diamond’ Knox. This portrait once hung in Rockingham House in Roscommon. 

Picture Copyright ( above) Adams 

John ‘Diamond’ Knox’s son and heir was named Arthur, who was born in September 1759 , settled at Woodstock in Wicklow an estate that he purchased from Lord St. George and served as High Sheriff of that country in 1791. He married in 1781 Lady Mary Brabazon eldest daughter of Anthony 8th Earl of Meath.  He died in Bristol in October 1798 and is buried in New Castle in Wicklow in a vault which he had constructed for the use of family. 

The Knox Sporting Screen painted by Roper for John ‘Diamond’ Knox 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC  

One of John ‘Diamond’ Knox’s possessions still survives today, a painted screen known as The Knox Sporting Screen and was sold in 1985 for £247,500 in Sotheby’s.  The work of art ,which is signed R.Roper and dates from 1759, comprises of twelve paintings of hunting subjects on the front of the screen while the reverse has eighteen portraits of celebrated race horses of the time with their grooms. This screen which is considered a masterpiece appeared at auction again in 2011 in Christie’s and sold for £241,250. 

A map showing the layout of the mansion at Castlereagh and its associated out buildings. 

Picture Copyright ( above) OSI 

In the eighteenth and nineteenth century, the vast wealth and land holding of the Knox family can not be underestimated. The family had estates all over Mayo and as different branches of the family grew so did the families collection of houses. Names of family homes in Mayo, some of which still exist, include Rappa Castle, Mount Falcon, Belleek Castle, Castle Lacken, Netley Park, Greenpark, Errew Grange and Cillaithe House. The towns of Ballina and Ballyhaunis with which the Knox family were most associated with had their main streets named after the family. In 1798, Castlereagh was the seat of Arthur Knox when it was pillaged by an organised band of marauders during the rebellion which is said to have led to the rebuilding of the house. This was possible as by 1800 as the rent roll of Castlereagh brought in the substantial sum of £18,000 a year which would be an annual income of over €2 million in today’s terms. By this stage the estate had passed to John Knox who was born 13th May 1783 who eventually married Maria Anne Knox on the 12th March 1808. They led an extravagant lifestyle and maintained houses in Dublin and the UK together with Woodstock in Co. Wicklow. The debts associated with their spending is something that neither the family nor the estate at Castlereagh could ever shake off in future generations. By the time of the death of John in 1861, the family were nearly bankrupt. Maria and John had four sons Arthur Edward, Ernest, Robert Augustus and Edward William John. The eldest son, Arthur Edward married Lady Jane Parsons in Petersham, Surrey in December 1835. She was the elder daughter of Lawrence, 2nd Earl of Ross and sister of William Parsons, the 3rd Earl of Rosse of Birr Castle.  Arthur was the eldest son of  John Knox and after his  death, his estates in Mayo were sold in the Encumbered Estates Court in 1853. It appears that the estate was possibly entailed to the eldest son as Arthur’s son, Lawrence (who was a minor at the time) was also mentioned as being an owner in press advertisements when the estate was sold. The first sale of land owned by Arthur Knox extended to over 16,000 acres with the second sale amounting to over 25,000 acres. Arthur Knox appears to be living in Sussex at this time and his younger brother Ernest purchased the Castlereagh Demesne together with lands at Cortoon, Killybroone and Leadymore, Mullinacrush, Killeencreevagh which extended to 1,600 acres. Ernest married Charlotte Catherine Knox Gore in 1861, the daughter of James Knox Gore of Broadlands Park in Mayo. 

The staircase in Cillaithe House, Killala which was said to be modelled on one of the many staircases that existed at Castlereagh. 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC 

Ernest made a number of changes to the house, none of which improved its appearance internally or externally. He divided up the entrance hall to create unneeded additional rooms and as per the attitude of the previous generations never completed the endeavor. He decided to close up the original main entrance to Castlereagh and re-orientate the house. The new entrance that was created was through a small glass door which seemed very odd in a building of such a vast size. Lots of projects were begun in the house but were never completed which were often lamented by later generations.  Pictures were removed from the walls to be re-hung but were still on the floor over fifty years later. Apparently in later years as areas of the house deteriorated the inhabitants moved to other parts of the house that were unaffected. This resulted in there being four incarnations of the kitchen as it followed the family around their decaying home. The house was adapted over the generations in an ad hoc manner, there were five staircases one of which was said to be the inspiration for the staircase that exists today in Cillaithe House in nearby Killala also owned by a Knox relative. In 1812, the north west side of the house was rebuilt, to form a new wing. This new section of the house was two high stories instead of the three stories of which the older part of the house was comprised of.  As a result of the differing floor levels, parts of this new addition were left uncompleted and interconnecting passages between the old and new wing were never resolved. The house was surrounded by a complex of outbuilding which included the stable block that incorporated a clock tower and was possibly architecturally superior to the house. To the rear of the house were vast walled garden enclosing acres of land. Also situated within the demesne and closer to the river was the Knox family’s private burial ground. 

This is Castlereagh after the improvements of Ernest Knox, he moved the original entrance door that was situated in the tower on the left and created a new entrance which consisted of two glass doors which can be seen in this image. 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC  

With a large rambling country house of its size, there was tales of ghosts especially a deceased butler who would make his way through the passages of the house at night dropping crockery. Naturally enough there was also a haunted room that no one was meant to disturb. The room contained an apparition that would rearrange the belongings of any guest foolish enough to stay there. It wasn’t unusual for rooms to be locked and forgotten about in Castlereagh, one such room was locked after one of the estate’s agents drowned who occupied it. The room remained locked for over sixty years and was only opened to retrieve the contents after the floor began to collapse in that section of the house. In fact it appeared to be a tradition, that as the family members died and the size of the family began to decrease, the bedroom of the deceased was locked and remained as it was at the time of the person’s death. It was said that whenever a member of the Knox family who lived in the house was about to die, a ghostly horse and carriage would descend from the heavens and arrive at the door of Castlereagh to carry the recently deceased to heaven…… or hell, it was never determined where its destination was. 

Lawrence Knox , the founder of The Irish Times, whose father and wife desended from the house at Castlereagh near Killala in Co. Mayo and not Roscommon as a number of publications ascribe his origins to. 

It was Ernest’s nephew Lawrence Knox who established the Irish Times in 1859 although it is said that he made no money from it.  He was the son of Arthur Edward Knox who sold Castlereagh. Lawrence was born in 1836 in Ballina, Co. Mayo according to The Freeman’s Journal of 1873. Also when Lawrence Knox was baptised in Sussex in January 1837, his birthplace is not recorded. In time he joined the army where  he served in the Crimea during the Russian War. He was eventually elected to Parliament as a representative for Sligo. Lawrence married Clara Charlotte Knox, who was his first cousin, the daughter of Ernest Knox of Castlereagh. Lawrence and Clara Charlotte Knox are recorded as being married in St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Killala in 1858. It is very odd to read that when Laurence Knox died in 1873, Ernest Knox of Castlereagh was described not only as his uncle but also as his father-in-law. After Lawrence’s death, The Irish Times was sold for £35,000, his desk which had ‘The Irish Times’ inscribed on it passed to another member of the family. Ernest Knox of Castlereagh Mayo died 8th September 1883, leaving his widow Charlotte Katherine Knox in control of Castlereagh. By the time of the census in 1901, Ernest’s eldest son, John Valentine Knox aged 62 is living in the house with his widowed mother Charlotte Katherine aged 91 together with his two spinster sisters Maria Louisa aged 64 and Helen aged 57.  They have two live in servants, Mary Tighe aged 23, a house maid and Agnes Mc Gurrin aged 17 who is said to be the cook. Castlereagh is described in the census documents as having 19 out buildings with the house itself having 36 windows in its entrance front and extending to 15 rooms. Charlotte Katherine Knox, Ernest senior’s widow is recorded as dying in 1901 followed by her daughter Maria Louisa who died in 1905 and Lawrence’s widow, Clara Charlotte Knox, who died in 1908. 

A newspaper advertisement indicating that contents of Castlereagh are to be sold 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC  

By 1911, John Valentine Knox is resident in the house with his sister Helen but they are now joined by their brother Ernest and another sister Gertrude. Ernest Knox who was born in 1846, retired from his position in the banking profession in 1910 and returned to his Mayo home. They have four live in servants in the house.  It is said that John and Ernest’s sister Gertrude always wore a hat all the time and was never seen without it for the sole reason that she had no hair. John Valentine died in 1919 followed by Gertrude in 1923. The last residents of the house was Ernest Knox and his sister Helen. The attitude of the previous generations to lock up rooms and forget about parts of the house was still prevalent in Ernest. Once when showing a guest around the house they enquired what a large heavy timber cupboard situated on the landing contained. Now one must remember that Ernest had lived in the house since childhood for over eighty years so his response might surprise some. He replied that he had never had the sufficient curiosity to open it. One relative whose boxes of possessions returned to the castle after their death in 1876 remained unopened by the time it came to clear the castle in 1933. Another box which was transferred from Woodstock in Wicklow was found to have remained unopened in Castlereagh for over one hundred and twenty years. Obviously curiosity was not a vice that the Knox family suffered from. 

The stables at Castlereagh Killala where the clock, that once over looked the stables at Castlereagh,  ended up after the auction of Castlereaghs contents and its subsequent demolition in 1937. 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC 

In April 1930, Ernest Knox aged 84 was laid to rest in the private cemetery within the demesne, today this area is marked by a group of trees, and though it exists on private lands it is said that the grave markers remain. Only Ernest’s elderly sister Helen aged 90 and a few relatives attended his funeral.  Ernest spent his time at Castlereagh in his notable library or trout fishing on the nearby river. His herd of deer, which galloped around the demesne, was said to be second only to the one that the Guinness family kept at Ashford Castle. At the time of Ernest’s death it was said that Castlereagh was one of the oldest mansions in the county and was still in a reasonable state of repair despite large sections being neglected. Prior to the first Land Acts, the estate rental was £20,000 a year but it was one of the first estates to be sold under the Encumbered Estates Court.    In June 1936,  a notice appeared in The Irish Independent inviting tenders for the demolition of Castlereagh and its associated out buildings. Previously, in February 1936 the contents of Castlereagh, Killala were advertised for auction by the order of Cyril St. George Knox. The auction of the contents would take place over three days and would extend to rare antique furnishings, oil paintings, china, glass, a valuable library of books and even a herd of deer. The auction was attended by a large number of antique dealers who came from many parts of Ireland and the UK. Two antique dealers in particular from Birmingham attended and bought heavily. The auction was also attended by a representative from the National Museum of Ireland, as the Knox family were known to collect ancient Irish antiquities, however it is not recorded if they purchased anything. A Chippendale table was purchased for £21 by a man from Manchester and the 2,000 volume library held no first editions but twenty-eight late seventeenth century books which were sold for £9. An exciting incident occurred during the disposal of the contents of the library, one of the workmen pulled out one of the wall panels by accident which uncovered a hidden room. This room had been used as an armoury which contained a number of guns and musketry. Everything had to go, including twenty of the deer roaming the grounds which were sold for £24 to the Ward Union Hunt. Nearly every item in the catalogue was cleared. The clock over the stable yard was purchased and made its way to the stable yard in nearby Cillaithe House in Killala and still exists today. The clock when purchased was in pieces in a box, like a lot of the Knox’s projects at Castlereagh, it had been taken down years before to be repaired but never reinstated. 

In December of the same year, tenders were invited for the purchase of the timber on the lands of the estate which comprised of 2,500 trees made up of Ash, Oak, Elm, Beech, Sycamore and Larch. The house was bought by Arthur West of Ballina who intended to demolish it for materials. In 1937 the demolition of Castlereagh began but resulted in a tragedy. Michael Burke, aged 18, was killed during the demolition of the house when a wall collapsed on him. Even during the demolition of the house Castlereagh had one more secret to reveal, as another staircase was uncovered having being built up decades before. The destruction of the great house was now complete, it was wiped from the landscape as if it never existed and today the field where it once stood gives no hint to what was once there. 

The remains of a decorative arch of the walled gardens at Castlereagh which survives today. 

Picture Copyright ( above) ICHC7 

Castle Lackin, near Ballycastle, Co Mayo – ruin

Castle Lackin, near Ballycastle, Co Mayo:

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 71. “(Palmer, Bt, of Castle Lackin/PB1910; Knox/LGI1912) A plain two storey late Georgian house, with a wide curved bow at one end of its garden front; simple entablatures over ground floor windows. A vast complex of outbuildings at rear of the house, partly surrounded by a high battlemented wall with castellated gate piers. “Eyecatcher” folly on hill opposite. Now the house and outbuildings are in ruins and some of the wall has collapsed.” 

James Cuffe, 1st Baron Tyrawley, (1748-1821), Barrack-Master General and First Commissioner of the Board of Works in Ireland Date 1802 by Engraver John Raphael Smith, English, 1752-1812 After William Cuming, Irish, 1769-1852, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

Not in National Inventory 

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

p. 110. In 1814 the seat of Lord Tyrawley.

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/09/12/castle-lacken/

Lackin’ a Roof

by theirishaesthete

Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.


In December 1661 Roger Palmer was created Baron Limerick and Earl of Castlemaine by Charles II. Palmer’s elevation to the peerage was thanks to his wife – from whom he was by this date already estranged – Barbara Villiers, the king’s maîtresse-en-titre. She had already given birth to one child and over the next dozen years would go on to have another six, none of them by her husband (an indication of their paternity is that they were all given the surname FitzRoy, although the last of them – also called Barbara – is widely thought to have been the result of an affair between her mother and John Churchill, future Duke of Marlborough). Palmer was quiet and studious, devoted to both the Stuart cause and to his Roman Catholic faith; as a result of the latter, he was imprisoned in the Tower of London on several occasions. Beautiful, wilful, promiscuous, Barbara Villiers was temperamentally unsuited to be his wife: before the marriage, Palmer’s father had warned the groom that she would make him one of the most miserable men in the world. The prediction proved correct. Her infidelity – and not just with the king – was widely known and being granted an earldom only had the effect of making Palmer the most famous cuckold of the era; it is notable that he never took his seat in the Irish House of Lords (although he was happy to use the title). Barbara Villiers would go on to be created Duchess of Cleveland in her own right, and to receive many presents from the crown, not least the great Tudor palace of Nonsuch, which she arranged to have pulled down, so that the materials could be sold to pay her gambling debts. She also persuaded Charles II to grant her Dublin’s Phoenix Park, but the Lord Lieutenant of the time, James Butler, Duke of Ormond – with whom she had a long-standing feud – successfully ensured that the land did not pass into her hands. 

Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.





Why was Roger Palmer given Irish, rather than English, titles? Both his family and that of Barbara Villiers had links with this country. On the latter’s side, the connection began with Sir Edward Villiers, born in Leicestershire and the elder half-brother of the early 17th century’s best-known royal favourite, George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. In 1625, James I appointed Edward Villiers as Lord President of Munster: this may have come about because Villiers’ wife Barbara St John was a niece of the Tudor adventurer Oliver St John, who had previously held the same office (he also became Lord Deputy of Ireland), and who in 1620 was created Viscount Grandison of Limerick. Since he had no male heir, it was arranged that William Villiers, eldest son of his niece Barbara (wife of Edward Villiers), should inherit the title.  The notorious Barbara Villiers, Countess of Castlemaine and Duchess of Cleveland, was William Villiers’ daughter. In due course, a member of the Villiers family inter-married with the FitzGeralds of County Waterford: their descendants live still at Dromana, County Waterford. 
The origin of the Palmers’ association with Ireland is less clear. It would appear that around the middle of the 17th century, one Thomas Palmer, son of a Norfolk landowner, came to this country and when he died without issue, his brother Roger inherited the deceased sibling’s property here. A grant of land in County Mayo to this Roger Palmer was confirmed by the crown in 1684 (two years earlier, his name had been included in an address of loyalty to Charles II from the nobility and gentry of the same county). Successive generations, usually with the same name of Roger, followed and in 1777 one of these was granted a baronetcy. Sir Roger, as he now became, had some 25 years earlier married Eleanore Ambrose, daughter of a wealthy Dublin brewer. Miss Ambrose was a Roman Catholic whose good looks and ready wit had previously caught the attention of Lord Chesterfield while he was serving as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. On one occasion, he informed George II that he had found only one ‘dangerous papist’ in the country – Eleanor Ambrose – since ‘the brightness of her eyes and the charms of her conversations are indeed perilous.’ At a ball in Dublin Castle to mark the birthday of William III, Miss Ambrose appeared wearing orange lilies on her bodice. Lord Chesterfield wrote her the following lines: 
‘Tell me Ambrose, where’s the jest
Of wearing orange on thy breast,
When underneath that bosom shows
The whiteness of the rebel rose?’
The Palmer baronetcy continued until the death without heirs of Sir Roger Palmer, fifth baronet, in 1910. By that date, through a series of judicious marriages, the family owned some 115,000 acres in Ireland, Wales and England. 

Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.





When Roger Palmer was created a baronet in 1777, it was as Sir Roger Palmer of Castle Lackin. This was an estate in County Mayo, some miles north of Killala, the same land the grant of 1684 had confirmed as belonging to his ancestor. It would appear that around the same time Sir Roger received his baronetcy, he embarked on building a fine residence, looking out towards the Atlantic Ocean and known as Castle Lackin. This was a long, two-storey house, its rather plain exterior distinguished by with a wide curved bow at one end and a sequence of yards, some of them surrounded with battlemented walls and accessed through a pair of castellated gate piers. It is difficult to know how much time the Palmers ever spent in this beautiful but remote spot, since they also had a number of properties in which to live, not least Kenure Park on the outskirts of Dublin, Cefn Park in North Wales and Glen Island in Berkshire. Early in the 19th century, the house was occupied by James Cuffe, first Lord Tyrawley, and subsequently by his daughter and son-in-law, Jane and Charles Knox. In 1841, it was leased to Edward Knox and valued at £58. However, by 1911 – a year after the last baronet’s death – the house was listed as vacant, and in 1916 the former Palmer estate in Mayo was sold to the Congested Districts’ Board. Within a couple of decades, the house here had become derelict, and that remains the case. 

Castle Lackin, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.

For more information on the Palmer estates in County Mayo, readers are encouraged to see The Impact of the Great Famine on Sir William Palmer’s estates in Mayo, 1840-49 by David Byrne (2021). 

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/09/10/lacken-folly/

A Bastard Child

by theirishaesthete

Lacken Gazebo, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Lacken Gazebo, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.



Known locally as the Lacken Gazebo, this wonderful folly sits on high ground above the north coast of County Mayo, offering spectacular views over the Atlantic Ocean. Looking like a bastard child of the Conolly Folly, County Kildare, the building similarly features a series of arches and is crowned by a number of obelisks. Constructed of rubble stone, the building is thought to date from the closing decade of the 18th century when it would have been one of the demesne improvements carried out by Sir John Roger Palmer whose residence, Castle Lacken – now a ruin – stood on ground immediately below.

Lacken Gazebo, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.
Lacken Gazebo, County Mayo, courtesy Robert O’Byrne.

Castle Gore (or Old Castle, Deel Castle), Ballina, Co Mayo

Castle Gore (or Old Castle, Deel Castle), Ballina, Co Mayo – lost 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 69. “ (Bourke/LGI1899; Gore, Arran, E/PB; Cuff, Tyrawley, B/DEP) Deel Castle, a C16 tower-house of the Bourkes close to the northern end of Lough Conn, passed, after Col Thomas Bourke has fought on the side of King James in the Williamite War, to the Gore family, afterwards Earls of Arran, who renamed it Castle Gore. The tower-house had a large C18 wing wiht a handsome rusticated doorway added to it; possibly incorporating a C17 range. The front was flanked by a wall and a low office range which probably included parts of the old bawn. In the later C18, the estate somehow became alienated to 1st Earl of Arran’s sister’s son, James Cuff, MP (afterwards 1st and last Lord Tryawley), who built a new house a short distance from the old castle ca 1790; a typical late C18 block of three storeys over basement. Three bay entrance front; tripartite doorway with engaged Tuscan columns and pediment extending over door and sidelights. Plain five bay garden front. Hall with frieze of delicate late-Georgian plasterwork. Long and narrow staircase hall at back of main hall, lit by very tall round-headed window; also with plasterwork frieze. Drawing room with niches on either side of fireplace. Low service wing; office court with stone arcade for coaches; barrel-vaulted underground service tunnel, passing beneath the formal garden. Many-arched bridge over Deel River. The house was severely damaged and the original staircase destroyed during the Rebellion of 1798. Lord Tyrawley left Castle Gore to his illegitimate son, Col James Cuff, who scandalized the County by keeping a French mistress here. After his death, the estate reverted to the Earls of Arran. The house was burnt 1922 and not rebuilt; in recent years the local authority tried to dynamite the ruin, regarding it as unsafe; but it proved so well built that only one corner was blown off. The old castle, which was still intact earlier this century, is now also a ruin.” 

Portrait of a gentleman, purported to be Sir Arthur Gore of Newton Gore courtesy of British & Continental Pictures by Bonhams April 28, 2009, painting by Circle of James Latham.
Mrs Jane Gore, Countess Of Aran by Isaac Whood 1733 courtesy artory.com. Probaby Jane Saunders(1704-1747), wife of Arthur Gore 1st Earl of Arran.
Arthur Saunders Gore, Viscount Sudley, later 2nd Earl of Arran (1734-1809), and his wife Catherine, née Annesley (1739-1770), with their son (?), Arthur Saunders Gore, later 3rd Earl of Arran (1761-1837), as Cupid by Pompeo Batoni 1769.png
Elizabeth Gore née Underwood (1761-1829), Countess of Arran by Hugh Douglas Hamilton, sold in Christies 2008. She was the wife of Arthur Saunders Gore 2nd Earl of Arran of the Arran Islands.
Anne Jane née Gore daughter of Arthur Saunders Gore, 2nd Earl of Arran of the Arran Islands who married Henry Hatton of Great Clonard in County Wexford and secondly, John James Hamilton, 1st Marquess of Abercorn. Painting by John Opie.

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988. 

Castle Gore (Old Castle, formerly Deel Castle), Ballina: “A sixteenth century tower house with a wing added in the mid 18C. This wing has a simple rusticated doorcase. Seat of the Gore family, afterwards Earls of Arran. Now a ruin.”

and “Castle Gore, Ballina, County Mayo: A large plain house built c. 1790 for James Cuffe M.P. 1st Lord Tyrawley. The house was severely damaged in the 1798 rebellion. Very fine granite Doric pedimented doorcase. Burnt in 1922. Now a ruin.” \

http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2014/10/castle-gore.html

THE EARLS OF ARRAN WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY MAYO, WITH 29,644 ACRES

This family deduces from

GERARD GORE (c1516-1607), citizen, Merchant Taylor, and Alderman of the City of London at the close of the 16th century, who married Helen, daughter of Ralph Davenant, of Davenant Land, Essex.

He died at the advanced age of 91, having had eight sons, of whom,

RICHARD, the eldest, MP for London, leaving 7 daughters;
JOHN (Sir), 4th son, Lord Mayor of London, 1624;
PAUL (Sir), of whom presently.

The youngest son,

SIR PAUL GORE (1567-1629), captain of a troop of horse, went over to Ireland with his regiment in the reign of ELIZABETH I, and obtaining large grants of land, which he condensed into a manor, designated Manor Gore, settled there.

Captain Gore wedded Isabella, daughter of Francis Wickliffe, and niece of Thomas, Earl of Strafford, and had issue,

RALPH, ancestor of the extinct house of GORE, Earls of Ross;
ARTHURof whom we treat.

Sir Paul’s second son,

ARTHUR GORE (c1640-97), of Newtown, County Mayo, was created a baronet in 1662, designated of Newtown, County Mayo.

He wedded Eleanor, daughter of Sir George St George Bt, of Carrick, County Leitrim, and had (with seven daughters) four sons, viz.

PAUL, predeceased his father;
Arthur;
William, of Woodford, MP for Co Leitrim;
George, an eminent lawyer.

Sir Arthur was succeeded by his grandson (son of Paul), 

SIR ARTHUR GORE, 2nd Baronet (c1682-1741), MP for Ballynakill, 1703-13, Donegal Borough, 1714-14, County Mayo, 1715-42, who married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Maurice Annesley, of Little Rath, County Kildare, and had four sons and three daughters,

ARTHUR, his heir;
Paul Annesley;
William;
George;
Anne; Eleanor; Elizabeth.

Sir Arthur was succeeded by his eldest son,

SIR ARTHUR GORE, 3rd Baronet (1703-73), MP for Donegal Borough, 1727-58, who was created, in 1758, Baron Saunders, of Deeps, County Wexford, and Viscount Sudley, of Castle Gore.

His lordship was advanced to an earldom, in 1762, in the dignity of EARL OF ARRAN, of the Arran Islands, County Galway.

He espoused Jane, heiress of Richard Saunders, of Saunders Court, and relict of William Worth. 

6th Earl of Arran KP (1868-1958)


ARTHUR CHARLES JOCELYN CHARLES [GORE], 6th Earl, KP, PC; Knight of St Patrick, 1909; Privy Counsellor, 1917; Lord-Lieutenant of County Donegal, 1917-20.
The 6th Earl is pictured above, wearing the robe, sash and insignia of the Most Illustrious Order of St Patrick. 

Address to 6th Earl and Countess of Arran on their marriage

“We, the Tenants on your Lordship’s Mayo Estate, and their friends, have heard with the utmost pleasure of your Marriage, and in meeting assembled, unanimously and with sincere and cordial feelings have passed the following resolution …” 

The Earls of Arran were a “Patrick family”, the 2nd, 4th, 5th and 6th Earls all having been appointed to the Order of St Patrick. 

The present Earl and Countess of Arran live at Castle Hill House, near Barnstaple, Devon.

*****
CASTLE GORE, or Deel Castle, near Crossmolina, County Mayo, is a 16th century tower house of the Bourkes.

It is close to the northern end of Lough Conn.

After Colonel Thomas Bourke had fought on the side of JAMES II in the Williamite War, the property was forfeited and given to the Gore family, afterwards Earls of Arran, who renamed it Castle Gore.

The tower-house had a large 18th century wing with a handsome rusticated doorway added to it, possibly incorporating a 17th century range.

They also acquired the manor of Belleek from the O’Haras, Barons Tyrawley, and owned estates in County Donegal.

The castle along with other lands was leased to James Cuff, Lord Tyrawley, towards the end of the 18th century; occupied by the Cuffs’ steward for part of the 19th century.

James Cuff, Lord Tyrawley, built a house beside the Old Bourke Castle in 1791.

The house was burnt in 1922 when the Arrans removed to England. It was not rebuilt.

The old castle, which was still intact in the early 20th century, is now a ruin.

The Earls of Arran’s London residence was The Pavilion, Hans Place. 

First published in October, 2012.   Arran arms courtesy of European Heraldry.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31303006/castle-gore-originally-deel-castle-deelcastle-co-mayo

Castle Gore (or Old Deel Castle), County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached three-bay (three-bay deep) three-storey over basement country house, built 1789-92, on a symmetrical plan with five-bay full-height rear (west) elevation. Damaged, 1798. Occupied, 1911. Burnt, 1922. In ruins [complete], 1942. In ruins [partial], 1978. Roof now missing with remains of paired limestone ashlar central chimney stacks having corbelled stepped capping supporting yellow terracotta octagonal pots, and no rainwater goods surviving on ivy-covered dragged cut-limestone stepped cornice retaining cast-iron downpipes. Creeper- or ivy-covered fine roughcast walls on benchmark-inscribed dragged cut-limestone chamfered cushion course on rendered plinth. Square-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement with steps now missing, cut-granite doorcase with engaged Tuscan columns on stepped plinths supporting “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” pediment on blind frieze centred on dragged cut-limestone panel. Square-headed window openings (basement) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed drag edged tooled cut-limestone block-and-start surrounds with no fittings surviving. Square-headed window openings (remainder) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed red brick block-and-start surrounds with no fittings surviving. Interior in ruins including (ground floor): central entrance hall retaining decorative plasterwork cornice to ceiling on foliate- or vine-detailed frieze. Set in unkempt grounds. Additional photography by James Fraher 

Appraisal 

The shell of a country house erected for James Cuff MP (1747-1821), first and last Lord Tyrawley (DIA), representing an important component of the late eighteenth-century domestic built heritage of north County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, ‘a fine modern residence’ recalling the near-contemporary Clogher House (1770), Clogher (see 31310001), confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate alignment maximising on panoramic vistas overlooking gently rolling grounds and the meandering Deel River; the compact near-square plan form centred on a Classically-detailed doorcase ‘similar in style to Enniscoe [see 31303803]’ (Craig and Garner 1976, 35); and the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression. Although reduced to ruins during “The Troubles” (1919-23), and thereafter unsuccessfully dynamited in the later twentieth century (Bence-Jones 1978, 69-70), the elementary form and massing survive intact together with remnants of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior including, remarkably, some decorative plasterwork enrichments highlighting the now-modest artistic potential of the composition. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (extant 1838); a walled garden (see 31303007); an ivy-enveloped icehouse (see 31303008); and a ruined Episcopal church (see 31303010), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of a fragmented estate having historic connections with the Cuff family including the hermetic Colonel James Cuff MP (1778-1828) ‘who, aspiring to parliamentary honours, was publically taunted by Daniel “The Liberator” O’Connell [1775-1847)] as to his questionable parentage’ (ITA 1942); and Colonel St. George Cuff (1796-1883), ‘late of Deelcastle County Mayo’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1883, 177); the Earls of Arran including Arthur Saunders Gore (1839-1901), fifth Earl of Arran and one-time Lord Lieutenant of County Mayo (fl. 1889-1901); and Lieutenant-Colonel Arthur Jocelyn Charles Gore JP DL (1868-1958), sixth Earl of Arran; and a succession of stewards including James Dunbar (1843-1920), ‘Farm Steward’ (NA 1901); and Thomas Vaughan (—-), ‘Steward [and] Caretaker’ (NA 1911). 

Castle Gore (or Old Deel Castle), County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Castle Gore (or Old Deel Castle), County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Castle Gore (or Old Deel Castle), County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/10/31/castle-gore/

‘Many a time I walked for three or four hours without meeting even one human being. Here and there a stately mansion, around it the gate lodge of the serf, the winding avenue, the spreading oaks, and the green fields in which no man was visible. Landlordism, the willing instrument of British rule, had wrought this desolation. I renewed my resolve to do my share in bringing about the change that must come sooner or later.’  
Dan Breen, My Fight for Irish Freedom (1924)

https://theirishaesthete.com/2023/11/06/deel-castle/

The ruins of the late 18th century Deel Castle, otherwise known as Castle Gore, in County Mayo have featured here before (see Sent Up in Flames « The Irish Aesthete) but rather confusingly the remains of a second, older building with the same name stand close by. The original Deel Castle – which might be classified as the real Deel – is a tower house sitting above the river Deel, thought to date from the 16th century when constructed by the Bourke family, then dominant in this part of the country. Like so many other such buildings, it is rectangular but larger than usual, of four storeys and with a substantial bartizan on the south-west corner of the roofline, above which rise tall, narrow chimneystacks. As is also typical of tower houses, there is only one point of access, a modest arched doorcase on the west side. It remained in the possession of the Bourke family until the late 17th century when, after Colonel Thomas Bourke had fought on the side of King James in the Williamite Wars, the property was forfeited and granted to Sir Arthur Gore.

Born in London, Paul Gore (created a baronet in 1622) had come to Ireland in the late 16th century in the service of Elizabeth I as commander of a troop of horse and eventually settled in County Donegal, representing Ballyshannon for a number of years in the Irish House of Commons. Arthur Gore (created a baronet in 1662) was his second son, and likewise both a soldier and politician, becoming High Sheriff of both Mayo and County Galway, and later of Leitrim. Having settled in Mayo, he received the Bourkes‘ former property, Castle Deel and in due course, his son having predeceased him, passed this to his grandson, also called Arthur Gore. When Mrs Delany visited the place in 1732, she noted, ‘tis an old castle patched up and very irregular, but well fitted up and good handsome rooms within. The master of the house, Arthur Gore, a jolly red-faced widower, has one daughter, a quiet thing that lives in the house with him; his dogs and horses are as dear to him as his children, his laugh is hearty, though his jests are course.’ The second baronet’s son, yet another Arthur, was created Earl of Arran in 1762. It would appear that the family continued to live in Deel Castle but towards the end of the 18th century, the estate was leased to James Cuff, first (and last) Lord Tyrawley who built the now-ruined house within sight of the old castle. Cuff’s mother Elizabeth was a sister of Lord Arran, which helps to explain why he should have been granted a lease on the place. Lord Tyrawley had no legitimate heirs, although he had two illegitimate sons by an actress, one of whom, James Duff, lived in the new Deel Castle until his death in 1828, after which that building reverted back to the third Earl of Arran. As for the old castle, it was occupied by Colonel St George Cuff, thought to have been the illegitimate son of James Cuff; the colonel’s wife Louisa Maria Knox Gore, was descended in the maternal line from the second Earl of Arran, making the family connection clearer. It was only after the colonel’s death in 1883 that the old castle likewise returned to the Gores and remained with them until after 1921 when the new house was burnt by the IRA and left the ruin still seen today.

As already mentioned, the original Deel Castle was a substantial tower house. To the east of this, possibly as early as the 17th century, an extension was built which was probably further improved in the 18th century. A bartizan on the south-east corner of the extension certainly suggests an early date, since it would come from a time when the occupants of the building would consider themselves vulnerable to attack. In any case, this section is of three storeys and five bays, with a limestone Gibbsian doorcase on the groundfloor. The outline of a gable on the eastern side of the facade indicates that a further building once stood here, perhaps to match that which still extends forward immediately beyond the tower house to the west, thereby creating a courtyard in front of the building. Little remains inside either the original or the later structure, the roof long gone, along with the various floors, windows and chimneypieces: the external walls alone now survive. This decay has occurred only in the past 100 years since, unlike its neighbour, Deel Castle was not burnt during the early 1920s but still occupied. Only afterwards was it abandoned, and left to fall into the present state of ruin. 

http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2014-07-13T01:28:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=39&by-date=false

MONDAY, 21 APRIL 2014 

Deel Castle  

& Castle Gore 

Crossmolina, Co. Mayo 

Castle Gore is a shell of an eighteenth century building that is located between the towns of Crossmolina and Ballina in County Mayo. While strictly not a castle but a large house, it inherited the moniker of being a castle from the older sixteenth century tower house nearby. While both structures are often confusingly referred to as Castle Gore, for simplicity I shall refer to the sixteenth century tower house as Deel Castle and the eighteenth century mansion as Castle Gore.  Deel Castle is situated beside the river from which it took its name and was erected by the Burkes in the sixteenth century. It was occupied by that family up until the seventeenth century after which Sir Arthur Gore was granted possession of Deel castle and its lands. In the following years the castle was enlarged and improved with the addition of a large eighteenth century wing which possibly incorporated a seventeenth century range. 

  

A house with trees in the background

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Very few pictures exist of Castle Gore and in this previously unpublished  view, the garden front of Castle Gore can be seen which overlooked the  gardens and the river beyond. The house was built in 1791 by James Cuff,  the first and last Lord Tyrawley and to the left of the picture can be seen  the service wing which was accessed by a tunnel from the road below. Accreditation- Photo from Maurice Knox 

Near the end of the eighteenth century, the Gore family leased Deel Castle and its lands to James Cuff of Ballinrobe. In 1791, James Cuff, the first and last Lord Tyrawley built a new mansion a short distance from the old Deel Castle, on the opposite side of the road overlooking the river. It was a substantial Georgian block of a house with three stories over a basement. It had a three bay entrance front which contained an impressive tripartite entrance door which had Tuscan columns on either side that supported a large pediment. The five bay garden front of the house faced the river and well tended gardens surrounded the house. The access arrangements for the servants were located on this side of the mansion and a tunnel from the road led under the manicured lawn to a courtyard and servants entrance. Arrangements like this were common, as often the upper-class residents of the house did not like the sight of servants and delivery carriages traipsing across their lawns and interrupting their view of the formal gardens. To the side and rear of the house was a low service wing and office court which housed all the ancillary parts of the household. Kitchens, laundries and areas for administration of the estate such as the Stewart’s office were all located here. James Cuff who built the house was directly related to the Gore Family, from whom he leased the lands, by his mother Elizabeth. She was the sister of Arthur Gore, the first Earl of Arran (1703-1773) and daughter of Sir Arthur Gore, second Baronet Gore of Newtown Gore (1685 -1742). In the peerage, both of these gentlemen are listed as living in Deel Castle during their life times. 

Mary Delany visited Deel Castle in 1732 and recorded her impressions, ‘tis an old castle patched up and very irregular, but well fitted up and good handsome rooms within. The master of the house, Arthur Gore, a jolly red-faced widower, has one daughter, a quiet thing that lives in the house with him; his dogs and horses are as dear to him as his children, his laugh is hearty, though his gests are course’. Whether it was James Cuff’s uncle or grandfather living in Deel Castle at this time, I can’t be sure. The Gore family’s occupation of Deel Castle may have been the reason behind the construction of the new mansion in 1791. James Cuff married Mary Levinge in 1770 and he was created first Baron Tyrawley of Ballinrobe on November 7, 1797. In the late eighteenth century, Daniel Beaufort and his wife Mary visited Castle Gore, here they met ‘several gents of the neighbourhood’ and ‘Dinner here was plain & good & well served, but one course & no desert but apples. They kill a beef every fortnight, two sheep per week, feed forty-five people daily and have a French maitre d’hotel’.  

A castle on top of a grass covered field

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Castle Gore was burnt down in September 1922 and has remained  a ruin since. In the 1950s the local council dynamited the building  in order to demolish it, but they only succeeded in blowing off one  corner of the building. Accreditation- Photo by David Hicks 

During the rebellion of 1798, the house was severely damaged and the original staircase destroyed. Lord Tyrawley’s wife died in 1808 followed by the death of Lord Tyrawley and his title on June 15, 1821. He is listed as having died without legitimate issue but he left Castle Gore to his illegitimate son, Colonel James Cuff who scandalized the county by keeping a French mistress in the new mansion. Colonel James also left his mark on the estate, as a short distance from the ruins of Deel Castle and Castle Gore are the walls of a small church. According to local tradition it was never fully completed and only one service was ever held there. It is said that Colonel Cuff had his parentage questioned by Daniel O Connell and after this incident he cut himself off from polite society and retired to Castle Gore. The church was erected for his private use and still survives today in a ruined state surrounded by modern houses. The entrance gates to the Castle Gore demesne were located in this area but no traces of them can be found today. Colonel James Cuff died in London on July 29, 1828 and the mansion at Castle Gore returned to the ownership of the Gore family. 

  

A tower with a clock on the side of a building

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The church that was said to have been erected by  Colonel James Cuff for his private use in the early 1800’s.  The gates to the estate were said to be situated nearby  but no trace of them exists today. Only one service was  ever thought to have been held in this ruinous building. Accreditation- Photo by David Hicks 

In the early 1800s, the sixteenth century Deel Castle was occupied by Colonel St. George Cuff. He was born in 1796 and was said to be the second surviving son of James Cuff. His name does crop up in the national press over the years in connection with Deel Castle; in October 1861, Colonel Knox from Ballinrobe is listed as returning from a visit to Deel Castle the home of Colonel St. George Cuff and in 1876, Colonel St. George Cuff of Deel Castle is recorded as owning 3,205 acres in County Mayo. He was married to Louisa Maria, a daughter of James Knox Gore from Broadlands Park in County Mayo. Louisa Maria’s mother, was the daughter of the second Earl of Arran, thus another union that cemented the ties between the two families of Cuff and Gore. By July 1880, Colonel Cuff who is still living in the castle is described as a ‘feeble old man’ and ‘a most indulgent landlord’. By June 1883 it is recorded in the national press that he passed away in the previous years. Now the lands, Deel Castle and the mansion house were under the control of the Earl of Arran and the Gore Family. One of the people who is most associated with the new mansion at Castle Gore was Arthur Saunders William Charles Fox Gore, fifth Earl of Arran who was born in 1839 in Bath, Somerset England. 

A train on a lush green field

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This is what remains of the formal landscape that Castle Gore once overlooked which is situated by the banks of the River Deel Accreditation- Photo by David Hicks 

In the years from 1892 to 1894, the architectural partnership of Millar & Symes carried out work for the fifth Earl of Arran at Castle Gore. It is also noted during the same period they were making regular visits to nearby Mount Falcon, a home belonging to a branch of the Knox family. A visitor to Castle Gore in August 1898, at the invitation of the Earl and Countess of Arran, recorded an interesting account of what they seen in the house. The Countess received her guest in the drawing room and afterwards the Earl conducted a tour of Deel Castle. The lawns around the house are described as ‘velvet’ and that they ‘undulate towards the river’. The visitor to Castle Gore describes a rich collection of works of art that were housed in the drawing room. There were two Gainsboroughs, a painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds together with a landscape by Constable and many items of interest such as a marble burst of the Countess Sudley. In the dining room there was a painting of ‘A Large Hound’ by Velasquez, set in a carved gilt frame that hung over the mantel piece. There were numerous other paintings hanging in this room including another by Reynolds. The entrance hall of the house had a delicate frieze of late Georgian plasterwork off which there was a long and narrow staircase lit by a very tall round headed window with decorative plasterwork. The drawing room had niches on either side of the fireplace and tall windows overlooked the formal gardens and the River Deel beyond.  

A picture containing outdoor, sheep, cloudy, clouds

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The sixteenth century tower house that is named Deel Castle  and is located near the ruin of Castle Gore. Copyright- Photo by David Hicks 

It was customary for the tenants of the estate to make presentations to the Earl of Arran and his family on various milestones in their lives. In July 1894, Lady Esther Gore, the daughter of the fifth Earl of Arran, married William Frederick Danvers Smith, second Viscount Hambleden. She visited Castle Gore in the autumn to be presented with a wedding gift by the Earl of Arran’s tenants, who all had subscribed to the presentation. In January 1901, the home coming of Lord Dudley, son of the Earl of Arran, from the War in South Africa was also marked with gifts from the tenantry. The tenants presented him with an address of welcome and a silver cup, while the estate workmen and outdoor servants presented a silver inkstand as a mark of their personal esteem. Lord Dudley’s carriage was met at the entrance gate by the tenants and workmen, where a triumphal arch had been erected. The men removed the horses from the carriage and pulled it up to the front of house where it was warmly welcomed by the assembled mass of tenants and those employed on the estate. The Earl of Arran and his son were in the carriage and upon their arrival at the front door of Castle Gore; they were addressed by Rev. Perdue. The clergy man spoke on behalf of the tenants and expressed gratification of being able to welcome Lord Dudley back again. A tenant on the estate by the name of John Mc Givney read an illuminated address decorated in an artistic manner by James McConnell of Sackville Street in Dublin. The silver cup was presented by Christopher Armstrong on behalf of the tenants and both it and the accompanying ink stand were engraved with inscriptions recording the event. In the 1901 census, the mansion at Castle Gore is listed as being inhabited by five people and having thirty-one rooms, ten windows in its entrance front and fifteen outbuildings. Living in Castle Gore at this time is the Dunbar Family from Scotland, with James Dunbar listed as a farm stewart, his wife Jessie, daughter Hannah and two other servants. These persons living in the house at this time were probably acting as caretakers as the Earl and Countess of Arran had other homes in England that they divided their time between.  

A stone building that has grass and trees

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The entrance tunnel for servants, which used to run under the  front lawn of Castle Gore that faced the garden and the river.  Servants and goods entered the courtyard to the rear of the house  in order not to disturb the beauty of the formal landscape above.  Today sections of this tunnel have collapsed and the remainder  is used for the storage of farm vehicles. Copyright- Photo by David Hicks 

Winifred, Countess of Arran, the wife of the fifth Earl of Arran, spent many months every year in residence at Castle Gore. She was the second wife of the fifth Earl and step mother to the future sixth Earl of Arran. The Countess was a former Lady-in-Waiting to Princess Christian and was in attendance on Her Royal Highness when she had accompanied Queen Victoria on her final visit to Dublin. In 1892, the philanthropic Countess of Arran established a knitting industry with a capital of £3 which provided employment to the women and girls from around the locality of Castle Gore, The work was so good that one hundred girls were kept in employment with orders for knickbockers from both England and abroad. The work was sent from Castle Gore on approval, so people could judge for themselves the merits of the work. In June 1902, an advertisement appeared in The Irish Times informing people that hand knitted socks could be procured from the Knitting Industry, Castle Gore, Ballina. The stockings fetched as much as 4s 6d a pair in London and bales of them were frequently sent to France and Italy where the work commanded very favourable prices. The Countess spent time every year, mainly during summer months, at Castle Gore until she died in November 1921. Arthur Saunders William Charles Fox Gore, fifth Earl of Arran, died on March 14, 1901 aged 62. He had homes in Hertford Street and Mayfair London in addition to his estate at Castle Gore in the west of Ireland. He left £100 to his butler Frederick Bax and his nurse Martha Hill. His diamond star of the Order of St. Patrick he bequeathed to his daughter, Lady Winifred Helena Lettice Gore together with £5000. The residue of his property went to his son Captain Arthur Jocelyn Charles Gore, Viscount Sudley, now the sixth Earl of Arran with a request that he give a keepsake to each of his children. The Earls estate was valued at £44,608 4s 6d and he was buried at Windsor Cemetery, Berkshire, England.   

A person wearing a costume

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Lieutenant Colonel Arthur Jocelyn Charles Gore who inherited Castle Gore after the death of his father in 1901. 

Lieutenant Colonel Arthur Jocelyn Charles Gore succeeded his father as the sixth Earl of Arran and in the early 1900s and the new Earl and Countess of Arran divided their time among their homes in Ireland and England. During the years between 1900 and 1906 the house in County Mayo was only occasionally visited and it appears that the new Earl was not as attached to Castle Gore as his father had been. The house was only occupied during the spring and summer months and remained closed the rest of the year. Eventually it was visited less and less, as both the Earl and Countess of Arran seemed to prefer to spend a lot of time at their villa in Cowes, an English seaport town on the Isle of Wight. In the spring of 1905, they closed up Castle Gore and spent the remaining months at the villa in Cowes with the Earl returning to London on occasion for business. Castle Gore was then used for entertaining friends and family on occasion. In January 1908, the Earl of Arran entertained some friends at Castle Gore for a woodcock shoot. The best days shooting was much spoilt by bad weather, but an excellent bag was secured, namely 72 woodcocks, 130 pheasants, 3 wild ducks, 2 snipe, 16 rabbits and 2 hares. In the summer of 1910, the Earl and Countess of Arran stayed at Hyde Hall in Hertfordshire and Castle Gore was let to the Lord Chancellor of Ireland and his wife, Lady Walker. By the time of 1911 census, the mansion at Castle Gore was only inhabited by Thomas Vaughan and his wife Mary. Thomas has listed his profession as a steward and caretaker and Mary is described as a house keeper. Unusually at the time, he has listed his religion as Church of England whereas his wife is a Catholic. The mansion of Castle Gore is recorded as having thirty-two rooms, eight windows on its entrance front and fourteen out buildings. At the time of the 1911 census, the ancient sixteenth century Deel Castle was uninhabited and remained so until its roof was removed in the 1930s. 

The above map which dates from before 1913 shows the extent of 
the estate and also the proximity of Deel Castle and Castle Gore 

The end for Castle Gore came September 3, 1921, when a band of masked and armed men surrounded the house with the intention of burning it down. The caretaker said that sixteen men arrived at the door of the castle at 2 o’clock in the morning. When he answered the door, he was faced by a number of revolvers and placed under guard. The masked men proceeded to saturate the building with petrol and paraffin oil which ignited quickly. In a few moments the mansion was a mass of flames and by day break was in ruins. A newspaper report from the time said that the castle contained very valuable antiques and oil paintings. There were 350 paintings supposedly lost in the fire and the damage to the house was estimated at £100,000. Later the same month a claim for compensation in the amount of £30,000 was lodged with the Provisional Government by the Earl of Arran for ‘deconstruction of premises’ at Castle Gore. Given the low amount of compensation sought, possibly a lot of paintings and items from Castle Gore had been removed to England for safe keeping. This was a decision taken by many landlords at the time as they were all too well aware of the threat posed of having their houses in Ireland burnt down. As Castle Gore was let out on occasion and with the small amount of time the Earl spent there, I would imagine that the majority of personal effects and valuable items left the mansion in Crossmolina long before the fire occurred in 1921. The house continues to stand in the landscape but its gaunt walls bear little resemblance to the house that existed before 1921. The ancient Deel Castle, the Castle Gore ruins and the estate lands were eventually sold to the Land Commission who divided them up among former tenants of the estate. The Earls of Arran maybe gone from County Mayo but the estate did have a connection with another great house in Ireland. Lady Beit of Russborough House in County Wicklow was the grand daughter of Mabell, Countess of Airlie, who was a daughter of the fifth Earl of Arran, who had grown up at Castle Gore. In more recent times the ruins of the house were to suffer another indignity, when in the 1950s the local authority tried to dynamite the ruin in the interests of public safety. This act of further vandalism on Castle Gore only resulted in one corner being blown off, leaving the truncated hulk that we see today. 

A herd of cattle walking across a river next to a body of water

Description automatically generated, Picture 
Deel Castle is named after the river on whose banks on which it is situated Copyright- Photo by David Hicks 

http://irishantiquities.bravehost.com/mayo/castlegore/deel.html 

Map Reference: G180184 (1180, 3184)  

This is a four-storey 16th century tower-house which belonged to the Bourkes. It was forfeited after the Williamite Wars and given to the Gore family. In the 18th century the Gores built a large house nearby which the named Castle Gore. This name was eventually applied to the old castle as well. The tower still stands to full height although the roof is missing. There are square bartizans at two adjacent corners. At some time, possibly in the 18th century, a three-storey annex was attached to the opposite wall. This was provided with a similar square bartizan at one of its free corners. It is not clear whether this new bartizan was a fully functional structure or simply a decorative architectural embellishment.