Portumna Castle, County Galway, an Office of Public Works property

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

General information: 090 974 1658, portumnacastle@opw.ie

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/portumna-castle-and-gardens/:

Built by [Richard Bourke 1572-1635] the fourth earl of Clanricarde, Portumna Castle was the de Burgo family power base for centuries.

The castle is a unique example of the transitional Irish architecture of the early 1600s. Its bold design combines elements of medieval and Renaissance style that complement each other perfectly.

A major fire in 1826 left the castle a roofless shell, but the state began to bring it back from ruin in the 1960s. Restoration work continues to this day.

The dramatic walk up to the building includes charming formal gardens, which create an enchanting sense of the original seventeenth-century setting. The walled kitchen garden is particularly memorable.

The castle enjoys a sensational view of Lough Derg. The ground floor is open to the public and houses an exhibition that brings the story of the castle and the de Burgo family to life. It is right beside the River Shannon and Portumna Forest Park, which makes it a great choice for a delightful day out.

Ashlar limestone Morrison, or Gothic Entrance gates, Portumna Castle. They are attributed to Richard Morrison, built about 1805, flanked by “octagonal piers with reeded colonettes on moulded plinths, with moulded bands and cornices, carved crocketed reeded pyramidal capstones with fleur-de-lys finials, vegetal detail to friezes, and supporting decorative cast-iron double-leaf and single-leaf gates.” [1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A gate lodge, probably designed by Richard Morrison. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The castle is a three-storey semi-fortified Jacobean house with raised basement and dormer attic, built c.1618, facing north and comprising rectangular block having four-bay long sides and three-bay short sides, flanked by square-plan projecting corner towers with one-bay sides. The machicolation over the main entrance has an oculus opening and pedestals with ball finials, and is supported on stone corbels. There are paired ashlar limestone chimneystacks to the middle of the roof which have a plan of five stacks by three parallel to axis. I thought these chimneystacks look rather modern and am not sure they look as they would have back in the 1600s and 1700s. The windows have stone mullioned windows with leaded glazing. Dormer windows have pitched slate roofs and two-light timber casement windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Richard Bourke 4th Earl of Clanricarde was brought up and educated in England. He fought on the side of the English against Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone, and was knighted on the field at the battle of Kinsale. He was a protege of Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and married Frances Walsingham, who was the widow of the poet Philip Sydney (1554-1586) and of Robert Devereux, the 2nd Earl of Essex (1566-1601), favourite of Queen Elizabeth I.

Portrait of Frances Walsingham, along with her husband Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and in the small picture, Sir Philip Sydney.

The castle was built around 1616 and is a mixture of defensive Elizabethan/Jacobean building and a manor house, marking the transition in building styles. In this is it similar to Rathfarnham Castle in Dublin, which was built around 1583. It retains defensive structures such as machicolations (floor openings in the battlements, through which stones, or other objects, could be dropped on attackers), shot holes, and strong corner towers, and surrounding walls with gunloops and crenellated towers.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Georgian Gothic gateways lead to the avenue up to the house. The seventeenth century Tuscan gateway, contemporaneous with the castle, is one of the earliest examples of the use of classical orders in the country and is the superb work of a skilled craftsman. Its decorative scheme reflects the details of the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Doorway entrance with round headed door opening in a carved limestone doorcase with side pilasters and and a scroll keystone, framed in square recess surmounted by moulded cornice on corbels, with scroll brackets on each end and supporting obelisks flanked by strapwork on each side of glazed elliptical oculus with carved finial. [2] Entrance is up limestone steps with carved balustrade. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The back is similar to the front, except for the addition in around 1797 of a curved porch of Jacobean style in the middle of the garden front (probably in the time of the 12th Earl of Clanricarde who died in December 1797 and was elevated to be a Marquess). I loved the curving steps up to this round door entrance.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Henry De Burgh (1743-1797), 1st Marquess (and 12th Earl) of Clanricarde (2nd creation), as a Knight of St Patrick Date after 1789 by Engraver William Sedgwick, English, 1748 – 1800 After Robert Hunter, Irish, 1715/1720-c.1803. Photograph courtesy of the National Gallery of Ireland.
The National Inventory describes the addition: “Curved porch to south elevation added c.1797 and having roughcast rendered walls with moulded string course to battlements, latter having carved ball finial to middle, square-headed two-light window openings having chamfered limestone surrounds, window to basement having chamfered mullion and that to ground floor having mullion and transom. Glazed elliptical oculus over ground floor window. Pointed arch door openings to east and west faces, with chamfered limestone surrounds, moulded cornices and timber doors, accessed by flights of limestone steps.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This board tells us that William de Burgo (d. 1205) came to Ireland with Prince John in 1185, and was granted lands stretching from Cashel to Limerick. In 1193 he married the daughter of Donal Mor O’Brien, King of Thomond, thus securing a good relationship with the native rulers. His son Richard (d. 1241) suceeded him and was known as Lord of Connaught. Richard began the feudalisation of Connaught after military conquest. Richard was succeeded by his son Richard (d. 1248) and then Walter, who was created 1st Earl of Ulster.

Before building Portumna Castle, the principal seat of the Earls of Clanricarde was a castle in Loughrea. As well as building Portumna, the 4th Earl refurbished the castles at Aughnanure and Athenry, amongst others. The Clanricarde earls also owned Clarecastle, Oranmore and Kilcolgan castles.

Aughnanure Castle County Galway, photograph courtesy of OPW website. This was also refurbished by the 4th Earl of Clanricarde.
Athenry Castle, County Galway, photograph courtesy of OPW website. This was also refurbished by the 4th Earl of Clanricarde.

The descendants of William de Burgo adopted Irish customs and clothing. Ulick Burke of Clanricarde (d. 1544) became Earl of Clanricarde and Baron of Dunkellin, and was one of the earliest Irish Chiefs to accept Henry VIII’s policy of “surrender and regrant,” accepting Henry VIII as his sovereign.

Ulick’s son Richard, 2nd Earl of Clanricarde, fought the Irish for the British crown.

The castle passed to the 4th Earl’s son Ulick who succeeded as 5th Earl of Clanricarde (d. 1657) and who was created 1st Marquess of Clanricarde. and then to a cousin, Richard (d. 1666), who became 6th Earl of Clanricarde.

Portrait of Ulick, 5th Earl of Clanricarde (d. 1657). He was created Marquess of Clanricarde. He was Lord Deputy and Commander in Chief of Royalist forces against Cromwell in 1649. His Irish estates were lost but then recovered by his widow after the restoration of Charles II to the throne.

The 6th Earl married Elizabeth Butler, daughter of Walter Butler, 11th Earl of Ormond and had daughters so the title passed to his brother William (d. 1687), 7th Earl of Clanricarde.

The 7th Earl’s son Richard the 8th Earl (died 1708) succeeded his father and despite marrying several times had no male heirs, so was succeeded by his brother John, 9th Earl (d. 1722). John was created Baron Burke of Bophin, County Galway, by King James II. He fought on the Jacobite side and was taken prisoner at the Battle of Aughrim in 1691. He was declared an outlaw and the Clanricarde estates were forfeited to the King, but the outlawry was reversed twelve years later on the payment of a whopping £25,000. His son Michael the 10th Earl succeeded him (d. 1726) and fortunately he married well, to Anne Smith daughter of John Smith, Chancellor of the Exchequer, widow of Hugh Parker of Meldford Hall, Sussex, whose income helped to restore the family fortunes.

The 11th Earl, John Smith de Burgh (1720-1782) changed his surname from Bourke to De Burgh.

Henry de Burgh, 12th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1742 – 1797), Attributed to John Smart (British, 1741-1811) courtesy of https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6249637

The 13th Earl, John Thomas De Burgh (1744-1808), brother of the 12th Earl, was created again 1st Earl of Clanricarde, an Irish Peer, on 29 December 1800, with special remainder to his daughters, if he had no male heir. One daughter, Hester, married Howe Peter Browne, 2nd Marquess of Sligo, and the other, Emily, married Thomas St Lawrence, 3rd Earl of Howth.

John Thomas De Burgh (1744-1808) 13th Earl of Clanricarde was created 1st Earl of Clanricarde, Co. Galway.

His son, Ulick (1802-1874), became the 1st Marquess Clanricarde (of the 3rd creation), and also Baron of Somerhill, Kent. It was during his tenure that the fire occurred. He married Harriet Canning, daughter of Prime Minister George Canning. Ulick was described as being immensely rich.

Ulick John De Burgh, 14th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1802-1874).
Harriet Canning, Countess of Clanricarde (1804-1876), married to Ulick John De Burgh, 14th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1802-1874).

Amazing work has been done to reconstruct the castle after the fire. The Commissioners of Public Works acquired the castle in 1968 for preservation as a national monument.

Portumna Castle 1946, photograph from Dublin City Archives and Library. [3]
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The sign board tells us that the Commissioners of Public Works acquired the castle in 1968 for preservation as a National Monument.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The information board tells us that the collapsed spine wall and oak floor beams were reinstated to the original design, based on detailed survey work of surviving features and documentary evidence, including early floor layout plans. The limestone handrail in front of the building was reinstated based on one surviving fragment.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The board tells us that the roof trusses are Irish oak. Studies were made of surviving roof timbers of buildings that would have been built around the same time, such as Carrick-on-Suir castle and Rathfarnham Castle.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Window mullions were repaired with resin.
There was a carriageway road built in either the late 19th or early 19th century, and a well in what was the kitchen.

After the fire the family built a Ruskinian Gothic mansion by Sir Thomas Newenham Deane at the opposite end of the park. Mark Bence-Jones tells us that the new house was not much lived in by the family, for 2nd and last Marquess of Clanricarde, who succeeded 1874, was “the notorious miser and eccentric who spent his life in squalid rooms in London and dressed like a tramp.

The 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning, “the notorious miser and eccentric who spent his life in squalid rooms in London and dressed like a tramp.”

The 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning, who died 1916, left Portumna to his great-nephew, Viscount Henry George Charles Lascelles, afterwards 6th Earl of Harewood and husband of Princess Mary (daughter of King George V), because it was said that he was the only member of his family who ever went to see him. The 1862 house was burnt 1922; after which Lord Harewood, when he came here, occupied a small house on the place. Portumna was sold when he died in 1947. [4]

Elizabeth de Burgh, who married Henry Thynne Lascelles, 4th Earl of Harewood. She was the sister of the 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning.
Pictured, the marriage of Princess Mary to Viscount Lascelles.

The castle had a long gallery on the second storey, similar to that in the Ormond Castle in Carrick-on-Suir. Long galleries originated in Italy and France and became fashionable in England after 1550. They were often sparsely furnished and were used for indoor exercise.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
The view from the front of the castle towards the gates. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside Portumna Castle, so far the ground floor has been restored and it houses an informative exhibition about the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The exhibition tells us about various positions of servants in a castle. I was amused by the description of the job of a footman. We are told that they were kept largely for “ornamental” purposes and had to be fairly tall and good-looking, and their wages even rose with their height! Some padded their silk stockings to make their calves look more shapely!

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Work is still being carried out on the castle, as you can see from the scaffolding on the side.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The side has a round-arched door and a small oculus window above. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The stables have been renovated into a cafe.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There’s also a walled garden at Portumna Castle.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30343036/portumna-castle-portumna-portumna-demesne-portumna-co-galway

[2] p. 233, Bence-Jones, Mark.

[3] https://repository.dri.ie/catalog?f%5Broot_collection_id_ssi%5D%5B%5D=pk02rr951&mode=objects&search_field=all_fields&view=grid

[4] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30343036/portumna-castle-portumna-portumna-demesne-portumna-co-galway

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

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