Towerhill, County Mayo entrance front c. 1975, photograph William Garner, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
“(Blake, Bt. of Menlough/PB) p. 275. “(Blake, Bt. of Menlough/PB) A two storey house of ca 1790. Entrance front of six bays with pedimented breakfront centre and round-headed rusticated doorway. Adamesque interior plasterwork. Sold post WWII to Lt-Col A.J. Blake, now a ruin”
In Blake, Tarquin. Abandoned Mansions of Ireland. Collins Press, Cork, 2010.
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
The Entrance Front of Towerhill as it once was and as it is today, the ruin disguised by trees and ivyPicture ( bottom) Copyright ICHC, Picture ( Top) from Walking Holidays Ireland Website
One country house in Mayo has a direct connection with the famous Green and Red of Mayo, the colours that the GAA county footballers wear when they go to battle in CrokePark. The demesne that surrounds Towerhill House near Carnacon in County Mayo is said to have been the setting for a Gaelic football match organised by the Blake Family, for whom Towerhill was their ancestral home. It was here on the 23rd January 1887 that the local team from nearby Carnacon first wore a green and red jersey which was the origin of the colours that the Mayo team wear today. This event is commentated with a plaque at the gates that once formed the main approach to the house. The Blakes were Catholic landlords who provided employment, built a local school and also are credited with supporting the early incarnation of the Gaelic Athletic Association. Unfortunately Towerhill has not survived but has disappeared from view, surrounded by a forest of trees that obscure its very existence. The two storey over basement classical style house, unique in having a pediment on each of its four facades, is now indistinguishable from the ivy covered hulk we see today. Towerhill was once the home of the prominent Blake family who descended from John Blake, the 4th son of Sir Valentine Blake of Menlo in Galway. The Blakes of Towerhill were relatives of prominent families in the locatity such as the Blakes of Ballinafad House and the Moore Family of Moore Hall. The writer, George Moore once said ”Moore Hall had always seemed to me to be a mansion house inferior to Clogher and Tower Hill‘.
The Entrance Gates to Towerhill near Carnacon, Co. MayoPicture ( above) Copyright ICHC
The mansion near Carnacon in Mayo was said to have been built for Isidore Blake, who died in December 1818, so the only thing known is that the house was built prior to this date. However Isidore married in 1767 which could give us a better indication of when the house was built. Isidore’s son, Maurice Blake, born in 1771, married Maria O’Connor, the daughter of Valentine O’Connor in August 1803. The marriage produced a son and heir to Towerhill, Valentine O’Connor Blake who was born in 1808. Valentine O’Connor Blake married the Honourable Margaret Mary ffrench the daughter of Charles Austin ffrench, 3rd Baron ffrench of Castle ffrench in Galway. Lord ffrench died in September 1860, aged 74 years, and strangely he is buried in the Blake family vault outside the church in Carnacon rather than in the ffrench family vault. Valentine O’Connor Blake was the High Sheriff in Mayo in 1839 and was said to have been one of the first Catholics since the Reformation to hold that position. Valentine O’Connor Blake died in 1879, aged 71 at St. Kevin’s, Bray in Co. Wicklow where it is said he had been staying for a number of months. His remains were conveyed by rail to Claremorris Station where they were met by horse drawn hearse and brought to Towerhill. Here they lay until his burial in nearby Carnacon in the Blake family vault where his hearse was followed by a procession of 250 of the tenants of the estate.
Bunowen Castle near Ballyconnely,Galway, The summer residence of the Blake Family from TowerhillPicture ( above) Copyright ICHC
Another property owned by the Blakes of Towerhill was Bunowen Castle in Co. Galway which they used as a summer residence due to its maritime location. In 1853, Valentine O’Connor Blake bought Bunowen Castle and the estate in the parish of Ballindoon, Co Galway, from John Augustus O’Neill. Valentine improved the castle and made it habitable. In the 1870’s, Valentine O’Connor Blake of Towerhill and BunowenCastle owned 4,198 acres in county Mayo and 7,690 acres in county Galway. The demesne around the house of Towerhill alone extended to over 300 acres. After the death of Valentine O’Connor Blake, Towerhill passed to his eldest son, Maurice and Bunowen passed to his second son, Charles, who made further improvements to the castle and left it ‘ as imposing as any of the other Galway mansions’. However Charles choose not to live there as he had purchased in 1880, Heath House at Maryborough and therefore a younger brother Thomas went to live at Bunowen. The Galwayproperty was sold to the Congested Districts Board in 1909 and half the Mayo property in February 1914. Bunowen Castle is a ruin today, however it seems to have faired slightly better than Towerhill.
A site map showing the extent of the Towerhill DemensePicture ( above) Copyright OSI
In 1894, Towerhill is recorded as being the fine home of Colonel Maurice Blake, he had married Jeanette in 1863, the only daughter of a surgeon named Pierce O’Reilly from Dublin. Colonel Blake was the High Sheriff of Mayo, a Colonel in the Mayo Militia and was the Foreman of the Grand Jury. At the time of the 1901 census, Maurice Blake and his wife, Jeannette are living in Towerhill with their son Valentine aged 34 and his three sisters Olivia aged 35, Georgina aged 22 and Margaret aged 25. Maurice’s brother, Thomas, who is a barrister aged 51 and listed as being born at Towerhill is also present in the house. Staff in the house on the night of the census extended to five female servants and a groom. In the same year, a serious fire occurred in the stables of Towerhill which threatened all the buildings in the yard near the rear of the house. Colonel Blake dispatched his three daughters on bicycles, to cycle through the village and gather as many people as possible to help put out the fire. Horses, carriages and carts were rescued from the stables before the roof collapsed. A section of the roof near the adjoining buildings was pulled down in case the fire might spread. By 1904, plans were afoot by the local tenants for the estate to be broken up and the land sold to them, if the sale price was agreeable to all parties involved. At the time of the 1911 census, Maurice Blake is still in residence in Towerhill, he is now aged 73, is a retired Colonel, a Roman Catholic and his birthplace is listed as being Dublin. He shares the mansion with his wife, Jeannette aged 69, their daughters Olivia, aged 45, Georgina, aged 42 and Margaret aged 36 all of whom were born in Dublin and are unmarried. Maurice’s son Valentine also lives in Towerhill, he is a retired Captain aged 44 and is also unmarried. Staff in Towerhill included five female servants and Michael Hayden aged 28 from Tipperary who is the Butler. The house is recorded as having 31 rooms and 30 outbuildings.
A surviving fragment of the window that once over looked the landing of the staircasePicture ( above) Copyright ICHC
Some of Maurice Blake’s children predeceased him, his daughter Cecelia Mary died in 1888 and Frances Mary died in 1897. In 1913, Maurice’s second son Charles died at Towerhill of pneumonia which developed after a day out shooting on the estate. In April 1915, Colonel Maurice Charles Joseph Blake died aged 77 years and left an estate valued at £5,938.00. His wife Jeannette died just over a year later in Dublin when visiting friends in December 1916, followed by the death of her daughter Margaret Mary in October 1938. Towerhill passed to the eldest son Valentine while his sisters Georgina and Olivia Blake continued to live in the mansion with him. This is evident from the number of advertisements they placed in the 1940’s looking for suitable parlour maids. However it was the death of Valentine that heralded the end for Towerhill as the home of the Blake family. Valentine Joseph Blake died, unmarried, aged 81, in July 1947 at Towerhill and left an estate in his will valued at £8,705. His two sisters remained living in the house for roughly another year after which they auctioned the contents in 1948. The auction took place over a number of days after which, the sisters moved to Loftus Hall, a convent, in Co. Wexford. Allen and Townsend Auctioneers were tasked with the sale that included furniture, live stock, farm implements and household effects to take place on the 18th and 19th May 1948. Items sold included a full sized billiard table, full sized concert grand piano and the contents of nine bedrooms. It was recorded prior to the sale that the house contained ‘many fine apartments, antique furniture and portraits in oils of various members of the family adorn the walls’ howeverthere is no mention made of any of the family portraits being sold.
The memorial over the Blake Familyvault in Carnacon Church which is located near TowerhillPicture ( above) Copyright ICHC
With the departure of the sisters to Wexford, in June 1949, a demolition sale was announced for Towerhill, where ‘first class’ materials were available for purchase. The walls of Towerhill were to be stripped bare as the advertisement speaks of a ‘Highly Important Demolition Auction’ where items for sale include ‘ Timber, Joists, Rafters, Mahogany Doors, Slates, Slate Slabs, Mouldings, Panels, Mantelpieces, Fire grates etc. etc.‘ The house has remained as a ruin but this sadly cannot not be appreciated today. As can be seen from the photographs, the house is barley visible, surround by tress and covered with ivy. Here and there, little glimpses of former grandeur can be seen. Fragments remain of the curved headed window that once stood on the half landing of the stairs that overlooked a very wide hall. Today even if you stood within 10 feet of the house, its ruin is invisible as the forest has become so thick that surrounds it. The Blake sisters spent the rest of their lives in St. Mary’s Convent, Loftus Hall, Wexford where Georgina Blake died in January 1959 at and Olivia died in 1966, both were returned for burial in the family vault in Carnacon.
The ruin of Towerhill prior to it being surrounded by trees and its walls covered in ivy.Picture ( above) Copyright The Architectural Archive
The elegant bridge which once provided access to the entrance front of TowerhillPicture ( above) Copyright ICHC
While the main gates of Towerhill are in relatively good condition, a decorative bridge found near the house has become badly damaged over the years. This is also obscured by trees and other vegetation with sections of the decorative balustrade having fallen into the stream below. This structure with its elegant arch spans a river that was realigned for Valentine O’Connor Blake in the 1850’s as a famine relief drainage project. Today the only visible trace of the Blakes of Towerhill in the locality of Carnacon is a monument found over the Blake family vault in the grounds of the nearby church yard. While I understand that Towerhill is a ruin and the home to some rare bats surely something can be done to protect and consolidate these ruins and the nearby bridge. Yet again, I am astounded as I travel the country looking at buildings of this nature, that the word ‘protected structure’ is bandied about. Therefore I ask, looking at the photographs here, how is the ruin of Towerhill or its surround structures protected by Mayo County Council. While this house will never be anything more than a ruin, it could be maintained in a fashion so that it could be appreciated as a piece of the architectural and cultural heritage of Mayo.
The entrance hall of Towerhill is barely distinguishable from the foliage that is slowly encroaching on the ruin.Picture ( above) Copyright ICHC
The entrance front of Towerhill is shrouded in ivy, only the faint outline of the window opes and pediment give anyindication of what lies beneath.Picture ( above) Copyright ICHC
Above are the front and rear elevations of Towerhill, County Mayo, a house believed to date from the close of the 18th century when built for Isidore Blake, whose descendants continued to own the property until 1948 when the building’s contents were auctioned and the place itself subsequently stripped of everything that might be removed, slates from the roof, floorboards and doorcases, chimneypieces and so forth. Of six bays and two storeys over basement, Towerhill is unusual in that all four sides of the house are pedimented, and finished to the same high standard; the architect responsible for this work is unknown. The property is now owned by the state’s forestry body, Coillte, which accounts for its neglected condition.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, entrance front c. 1965 courtesy Lord Rossmore. Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 210. “(Moore/LGI1912) A large late C18 house of three storeys over basement on a peninsula in Lough Carra; built 1795 by George Moore, who had made a fortune in Malaga and whose radical son, John, was appointed President of the Provisional Government of Connaught by Gen Humbert, commander of the invading French force 1798. Entrance front with two bays on either side of a central breakfront rather similar to that at Tyrone House, County Galway, with triple window framed by short fluted pilasters on console brackets above a Venetian window above the entrance doorway; which here is beneath a shallow single-storey Doric portico, whereby at Tyrone there is a porch of two storey Ionic columns. The top of the portico was treated as a balcony, with an ironwork railing. Solid roof parapet; massive die in centre. The house and its surroundings feature in the writings of George Moore, whose house it was. It is now a gaunt ruin, having been burnt 1923; various plans to rebuilt it on a smaller scale for George Moore’s brother, Senator Col. Maurice Moore, came to nothing. When George Moore died 1933, his ashes were buried on an island in the lough here; ferried across in a boat rowed by Oliver St. John Gogarty, who soon regretted having volunteered as an oarsman. “First off came my silk hat, the frock coat and…” Gogarty recalls. “I presume you will retain your braces,” said Moore’s sister, who sat in the stern of the boat, holding the urn.”
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy Mark Bence-Jones.Moore Hall, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay (three-bay deep) three-storey over part raised basement country house, built 1792-5; dated 1795, on a symmetrical plan centred on single-bay full-height breakfront with (single-storey) prostyle tetrastyle Doric portico to ground floor; six-bay full-height rear (north) elevation. Occupied, 1911. Vacant, 1921. Burnt, 1923. In ruins, 1925. Hipped roof now missing with paired lichen-covered limestone ashlar central chimney stacks on axis with ridge having cut-limestone stringcourses below capping supporting terracotta or yellow terracotta octagonal pots. Part creeper- or ivy-covered fine roughcast walls on lichen-covered tooled cut-limestone chamfered cushion course on fine roughcast base with drag edged rusticated cut-limestone quoins to corners including drag edged rusticated cut-limestone quoins to corners (breakfront) supporting dragged cut-limestone “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice on blind frieze below parapet centred on inscribed dragged limestone ashlar “die” date stone (“1795”). Round-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement behind (single-storey) prostyle tetrastyle Doric portico approached by flight of eleven benchmark-inscribed cut-limestone steps with dragged limestone ashlar columns having responsive pilasters supporting “Cavetto”-detailed cornice on roundel-detailed frieze below wrought iron parapet. “Venetian Window” (first floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and cut-limestone surround with pilasters supporting “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice centred on archivolt. Square-headed window opening in tripartite arrangement (top floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and cut-limestone surround with stop fluted pilasters on fluted consoles supporting “Cavetto” cornice. Square-headed window openings with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed cut-limestone voussoirs with no fittings surviving. Interior in ruins including (basement): groin vaulted cellars; (ground floor): bow-ended central entrance hall with central door openings in segmental-headed recesses retaining decorative plasterwork “fan vaulted” overpanels, and rosette-detailed dentilated plasterwork cornice to ceiling. Set in wooded grounds.
Appraisal
The shell of a country house erected to a design attributed to John Roberts (1712-96) of Waterford (DIA) representing an important component of the late eighteenth-century domestic built heritage of County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, one recalling the Roberts-designed Tyrone House (1779) in County Galway, confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate alignment maximising on panoramic vistas overlooking Lough Carra; the compact near-square plan form centred on a Classically-detailed tripartite breakfront carrying the Moore family motto (“FORTIS CADERE NON POTEST [A Brave Man May Fall But Cannot Yield]”); the definition of the principal floor as a slightly elevated “piano nobile”; the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression; and the parapeted roofline. Although reduced to ruins during “The Troubles” (1919-23), an act of vandalism recounted in detail in “The Moores of Moore Hall” (1939), the elementary form and massing survive intact together with remnants of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior including, remarkably, some decorative plasterwork enrichments highlighting the now-modest artistic potential of the composition. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (extant 1838); a polygonal walled garden (see 31310010); and the nearby “Grand Gate” (see 31310011), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having historic connections with the Moore family including George Moore (1729-99); John Moore (1767-99), President of the Provisional Government of Connaught (fl. 1798); George Moore (1770-1840), author of “The History of the British Revolution of 1688-9” (1817); George Henry Moore MP (1810-70) of the short-lived Independent Irish Party (formed 1852; dissolved 1858); George Augustus Moore (1852-1933), author of “A Mummer’s Wife” (1885), “A Drama in Muslin” (1886) and “Esther Waters” (1894) and assistant founder of the Irish Literary Theatre (1899); and Senator Colonel Maurice George Moore (1854-1939), ‘Late First Battalion Connaught Rangers’ (cf. 31310012).
Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Moore Hall, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Also known as Moorehall, the house was constructed between 1792 and 1795. The Moores were originally an English Protestant family but some became Catholic when John Moore married the Catholic Jane Lynch Athy of Galway, and when their son, George, married Katherine de Kilikelly, an Irish-Spanish Catholic, in 1765. Several members of the Moore family went on to play major parts in the social, cultural and political history of Ireland from the end of the eighteenth century to the early twentieth century. The house was burned down in 1923 by anti-Treaty irregular forces during the Irish Civil War because then current owner Maurice Moore was viewed as pro-Treaty.
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
p. 110. “A large three storey house built 1795 for George Moore. The house is similar to Tyrone House, County Galway. Burnt in 1923. Now a ruin which has been stabilised.”
Irish Castles and Historic Houses. ed. by Brendan O’Neill, intro. by James Stevens Curl. Caxton Editions, London. 2002:
The ruin of Moore Hall, the Georgian home of a celebrated Mayo family, is situated on a promontory overlooking Lough Carra. The best known members of the family are John (1763-99), who was appointed president of the Provisional Republic of Connacht during the French invasion of 1798, George Henry (1811-70), MP for Mayo and one of the leaders of the Tenants Right Movement, and George (1852-1933), a novelist.
Featured in Irish Country Houses, Portraits and Painters. David Hicks. The Collins Press, Cork, 2014.
p. 167. Maurice was the second son of George Henry Moore and both he and his elder brother [the writer George Moore] had a difficult relationship: times of great affection were followed by periods when they would blatantly ignore each other for months and sometimes years on end. Maurice, the younger brother, was seen as a safe pair of hands and if he had inherited Moore Hall it might still stand today. However, George was the elder son and under the laws of succession he became the rightful heir to the Moore Hall estate. George did have some affectino for his Mayo home but it was Maurice who had a deep-rooted respect for his father’s legacy and strove to keep the Moore estate intact. Arguments often stemmed from teh fact that Maurice was the landlord by proxy but it was George’s money taht paid the bills. George, as the elder brother, was entitled to have the final say over the management of Moore Hall; however, he also thought that this right extended to his brother and his family. When the tentacles of his requests began to intrude into Maurice’s personal life, disagreements naturally occurred. ..At the time that Moore Hall burnt down in 1923, itwas Maurice who was recalled with great affection.
p. 168. George was active in the Irish Literary Renaissance of the early 1900s after becoming a successful author, despite an early ambition to become an artist. While in Paris pursuing his artistic ambitions, he wrote about the impressionist painters and befriended many of them, such as Edouard Manet and Edgar Desgas. Moore, deciding he had no talent as a painter, moved to London in the 1880s where he began his literary career adn produced some of his best-known works, including Esther Waters. He became an accomlished author, credited with creating the genre of fictional autobiography and also published a number of works of poetry. During his tiem in Dublin in he early 1900s he befriended many in the Irish artistic and literary world, such as George Russell (A.E.), Nathaniel Hone, Walter Osborne, W.B. Yeats, Douglas Hyde and Lady Gregory. As a result of these associations he was involved in the setting up of the Abbey Theatre in Dublin before returning to live in London for the rest of his life.
The story of the Moore family and their great house in Mayo begins in the 18th century with an ancestor, George Moore, who decamped from Mayo to Alicante in Spain to make his fortune in the wine trade, a task in which he had succeeded by the mid 1700s. When he had amassed a substantial fortune, he returned to Ireland and began to buy up land in his native county. The Moore family originated from Ashbrook House near Straide in County Mayo and when George’s brother died he inherited the house and lands. He was considering renovating and improving Ashbrook but, on a tour of the country to look for suitable land in which to invest, he came across Muckloon Hil, overlooking Lough Carra. He purchased the property and lands, which amounted to 800 acres, from the MacDonald family. George began to clear some of the woods on th hill and in 1792 a large, square Georgian mansion began to rise on the hill. The inclusion of a first-floor balcony may have been inspired by the time that George had spent in Spain but he had no accounted for the wind and rain in Mayo, which allowed him to spend little time on it. Teh house and estate eventually passed to George’s grandson, George Henry Moore. He married Mary Blake, the daughter fo Maurice Blake of Ballinafad House (and named their second son after his maternal grandfather). George and Mary’s union produced five children: George in 1852, Maurice 1854, Augustus 1856, Nina in 1858 and Julian in 1857. At this time George Henry and his family lived at 39 Alfred House in London which he had leased while a Member of Parliament. George Henry made a hasty return to Moore Hall in April 1870 where disputes were raging with tenants over rent reductions. There in his ancestral home he died and was buried in the nearby family burial ground of Kiltoom. This event brought the estate into [p. 170] his eldest son, novelist George Moore; however, the circumstances surrounding their father’s death would lead to a dispute between himself and his younger brother Maurice in later years.
p. 170. The house was supposedly designed by Waterford architect John Roberts, a Protestant, who also designed Tyrone House in Clarinbridge in County Galway. Roberts is notable for designing Waterford’s Catholic and Church of Ireland cathedrals as well as a number of other significant buildings in Waterford.
p. 173. In 1901 George Moore, after spending 21 years in England, returned to Ireland, setting up home in Dublin. He had been inspired by his cousin Edward Martyn who told him that artistically great things were happening in Ireland. Moore Hall was entrusted to his brother’s capable wife as Maurice was still stationed abroad with the army. This generosity by George came with a number of strings attached: he felt entitled to meddle in his brother’s family’s life. This need to try and control his brother and nephews was probably due to the lack of a family of his own. George reworked his will to include or exclude his nephews depending on how well they were progressing in their study of the Irish language. George wanted his nephews to be Irishmen of the highest calibre and in 1901, suggested to his brother that he pay for a “a nurse straight from Arran,” believing that an Aran islander was necessary to teach teh next generation of the Moore family to speak Irish properly. The ladies transported from Aran did not fit easily into Maurice’s household. Teh quality of their teaching and their standards fo cleanliness left Maurice’s wife in despair.
In 1903 George publicly renounced teh Catholic faith and yet again decided to reorganise his brother’s family accordingly, desiring that one of his nephews be brought up in the Protestant faith. In July 1905 he tried to persuade Maurice to let him sell the lands of their estate under the terms of the 1903 Wyndham Act. Maruice was successful in convincing his brother not to sell but the issue fo selling the estate woudl ot go away….Money had begun to cause trouble between the brothers since Maurice’s retirement from the army. Maurice was now living on a full-time basis at Moore Hall and he began to try to put the house and estate back in order.
[lots of sad arguments between brothers – George wanted his nephews to be raised Protestant, and Maurice disagreed, and George bankrolled repairs and improvements. Finally George asked Maurice to move out and he did. Maurice would still use the house occasionally, via the steward, James Reilly, unbeknownst to George. George published that their father killed himself, appalling Maurice. Maurice became a senator, and allowed those fighting the English to be billeted in the house during the War of Independence.]
p. 177. “By the winter of 1922 the house was not being lived in… In 1923 a group of local men arrived at teh door of the gate lodge and ordered James Reilly to hand over the keys to Moore Hall. They made their way up the hill to the house, awkwardly lugging bales of hay and drums of petroleum and paraffin. …It is a matter of some debate whether or not items were looted from teh house but six hours later the roof of the house crashed in, causing the burning interior to collapse down, leaving a mound of debris 14 feet deep on the ground floor.
p. 178. “George made no hesitation in laying the blame for the burning of the hosue to his brother… [he wrote in a letter to the Irish Times] “I tried to disassociate my home from politics and for that reason Colonel Moore has not visited Moore Hall for the last twenty years [he did not know Maurice had visited]. His acquiescence in his election to the Seanad and the speeches he has delivered in the Seanad are no doubt the cause of the burning.”
George would have received more money [in compensation] had he considered rebuilding Moore Hall, but, as he wrote to a friend, “Since the burning of my house, I don’t think I shall every be able to set foot in Ireland again.” He sold the remaining land to the Congested Districts Board in 1927 but Maurice could not let the family home an dlands go and entered into an arrangement which allowed him to purchase 300 acres of land and the ruin of the mansion for £1,300….
Maurice hoped that he might be able to restore the house by selling timber from the woods and the rent he would receive from the remaining lands…p. 179. However, the trees were unsuitable for felling so Moore Hall remained a ruin. Early in 1932, George Moore died. His substantion £75,000 fortuen would have been large enough for a restoration of Moore Hall had the bulk gone to a single heir; however, while his will contained many bequests, he left nothing to his brother Maurice or his nephew Rory. …
Maurice approached the Forestry Board with a proposal that it should take over the demesne but it declined. The estate was sold to John O’Haire, a timber merchant who cleared all the woods around the house. When O’Haire died, the Department of Forestry purchased Moore Hall and planted the front lawn and the rest of the site with conifers. Moore Hall became engulfed in a sea of evergreen and no longer enjoys views of the lake.”
THE MOORES OF MOORE HALL OWNED 12,371 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY MAYOThe family of MOORE claimed descent from THE RT HON SIR THOMAS MORE, statesman and Lord Chancellor to HENRY VIII.
THOMAS MORE, born at Chilston, near Madley, in Herefordshire, married Mary, daughter of John ApAdam, of Flint, and had a son,
GEORGE MOORE, who settled at Ballina, County Mayo, Vice-Admiral of Connaught during the reign of WILLIAM III.
He wedded Catherine, daughter of Robert Maxwell, of Castle Tealing, Scotland, by Edith his wife, daughter of Sir John Dunbar, and was father of
GEORGE MOORE, of Ashbrook, County Mayo, living in 1717, who married Sarah, daughter of the Rev John Price, of Foxford, County Mayo, by his wife, Edith Machen, of the city of Gloucester, and by her had two sons,
George, of Cloongee;
JOHN, of whom we treat.
The younger son,
JOHN MOORE, of Ashbrook, County Mayo, born ca 1700, espoused Jane, daughter of Edmund Athy, and had issue,
Robert, dsp 1783;
GEORGE, of whom presently;
Edmund, of Moorbrook;
Sarah; Jane.
His second son,
GEORGE MOORE (1729-99), of Moore Hall, Ashbrook, and Alicante, Spain, married, ca 1765, Catherine, daughter of Dominick de Killikelly, of Lydacan Castle, County Galway, and had issue,
GEORGE MOORE (1770-1840), of Moore Hall, wedded, in 1807, Louisa, daughter of the Hon John Browne, sixth son of John, 1st Earl of Altamont, and had issue,
GEORGE HENRY, his heir;
John;
Arthur Augustus.
The eldest son,
GEORGE HENRY MOORE JP DL (1810-70), MP for County Mayo, 1847-57, 1868-70, High Sheriff of County Mayo, 1867, espoused, in 1851, Mary, eldest daughter of Maurice Blake, of Ballinafad, County Mayo, and had issue,
GEORGE AUGUSTUS MOORE (1852-1933), of Moore Hall and Ebury Street, London, High Sheriff of County Mayo, 1905, who died unmarried.
George Henry Moore (Image: Wikipedia)
THE MOORES had originally been an English Protestant settler family.
The father of George Moore (1729-99), John Moore, converted to catholicism when he married Jane Lynch Athy from one of the principal Catholic families in County Galway.
Using her connections among the “Wild Geese,” Irish Jacobite exiles in Spain, Jane supported her son in getting established in the wine import business in Alicante, Spain.
He subsequently changed his religion, and married, in I765, Katherine de Kilikelly, an Irish Catholic raised in Spain.
George made his fortune and returned to erect Moore Hall in 1792, above the shore of Lough Carra.
“He thus solidified the shift of the family from being New English settlers of Protestant faith to their nineteenth-century identity as Irish Catholic landlords who had never been humbled by the “Penal Laws” — that set of regulations aimed at limiting the property and power of Irish Catholics, and put in force after William of Orange routed James II at the Battle of the Boyne in 1688.”
“The change in the confessional identity of the Moore family, like the circumstances of G H Moore’s death, is important to the story of George Moore. These matters would one day be the occasion of a quarrel about family history that broke up the surviving Moore brothers, saw Moore Hall become vacant, and scattered the last generation of Moores abroad.”
“Of the four sons of George Moore of Alicante, the eldest was John Moore (1763-99), a scapegrace trained in Paris and London for the law, and for a few days in 1798 the first President of the Republic of Connaught.”
“Aided by French invaders at Killala, John Moore participated in the surprise victory of General Humbert over a British garrison at Castlebar on 27 August 1798, assumed nominal leadership of the rebels, then got captured after the rout of the small Irish forces.”
“President Moore died while under house arrest in a Waterford tavern. The second son of Moore of Alicante was a mild-tempered man, also named George Moore. A gentleman scholar rarely out of his library, he wrote histories of the English and French revolution, something in the manner of Gibbon.”
“Moore the historian had three sons by Louisa Browne, the first being George Henry Moore, the only one of the three not to die by a fall from a horse.”
Moore Hall (Image: Robert French)
MOORE HALL, near Ballyglass, County Mayo, is a Georgian mansion built between 1792-6 by George Moore.
It comprises three storeys over a basement, with an entrance front of two bays on either side of a centre breakfront; including a triple window, and fluted pilasters on console brackets.
There is a Venetian window above the entrance doorway, beneath a single-storey Doric portico.
The house was burnt by the IRA in 1923, and is now a ruinous shell.
Colonel Maurice Moore, CB, had intended to rebuild the house, albeit on a smaller scale.
Moore Hall Moore Hall was built between 1792 and 1796 as the home of George Moore. The Moores were originally a Protestant family, although some members were subsequently converted to Catholicism. Some members of the family played a prominent part in the history of Ireland, particularly in Famine Relief in the 19th century. The house was burned down in 1923 during the Irish Civil War. The estate is now owned by the national forestry company Coilte and is a popular visitor site.
George Moore (1727–1799), who built Moore Hall, originally came from Straide near Castlebar. During the time of the Penal Laws, George went to Spain where he was admitted to the Royal Court. From the 1760s until about 1790, George made his fortune in the wine and brandy trade, running his business from Alicante. When the Penal Laws were relaxed at the end of the 18th century, he returned to County Mayo with a fortune of £200,000 and in 1783, bought over 12,000 acres (49 km2) of land at Muckloon, Ballycally and Killeen from Farragh Mc Donnell, and commissioned the building of the grand residence of Moore Hall.
George’s son, John Moore (1767–1799), was educated in France and became a lawyer. With the rebellion of 1798, he returned to Mayo. General Humbert appointed him President of the Connacht Republic in Castlebar. Thus, John Moore was the first President of an Irish republic, albeit for a very brief interval. He was captured by the English Lord Cornwallis, and although initially sentenced to death, his sentence was later commuted to deportation. He died in the Royal Oak tavern in Waterford on 6 December 1799. His body was exhumed from Ballygunnermore Cemetery in Waterford in 1962 and brought to Castlebar, where he was buried in the Mall with full military honours.
George Henry Moore(1810–1870), was educated in the Catholic faith in England and later at Cambridge University. His main interest was in horses and horse-racing. His brother,Arthur Augustus, was killed after a fall from the horse Mickey Free during the 1845 Aintree Grand National. At the height of the Great Irish Famine in 1846, he entered a horse called Coranna for the Chester Gold Cup and netted £17,000 from bets laid on the horse. During the Famine he imported thousands of tons of grain to feed his tenants, and gave each of his Mayo tenants a cow from his winnings. It is still remembered on the Moore estate that nobody was evicted from their home for non-payment of rent during hard times, and that nobody died there during the Famine. George Henry is buried in the family vault at Kiltoom on the Moore Hall estate.
George Augustus Moore (1852–1933), was a distinguished writer of the Irish Literary Revival period. Many famous writers of the time, including Lady Gregory, Maria Edgeworth, George Osborne, and W. B. Yeats were regular visitors to Moore Hall. George was an agnostic, and anti-Catholic.[4] His ashes are buried on Castle Island on Lough Carra in view of the big house on the hill.[3]
Maurice George Moore (1854–1939), Senator Colonel Maurice Moore was the statesman of the family. He served with the Connaught Rangers in the Boer War and became concerned with human rights in South Africa. He also worked to relieve Irish prisoners held in English jails, and for the retention of UCG. He was also involved with the co-operative movement in Ireland, founded by Horace Plunkett.
On February 1st next it will be 95 years since Moore Hall, County Mayo was needlessly burnt by a group of anti-treaty forces during the Civil War. Since then the building has stood empty and falling ever further into ruin. Moore Hall’s history was discussed here some time ago, (see When Moore is Less, June 30th 2014), and at the time it looked as though the house, dating from the 1790s, had little viable future. For many years the surrounding land has been under the control of Coillte, the state-sponsored forestry company, which displayed no interest in the historic property for which it was responsible. However, yesterday Mayo County Council announced it had purchased Moore Hall and 80 acres. The council proposes ‘to develop the estate as a nationally important nature reserve and tourism attraction’, its chief executive declaring this will ‘ensure that the natural, built and cultural heritage of Moorehall is protected yet developed and managed in a sustainable manner for current and future generations.’ Further details have yet to be provided, but one initiative Moore Hall’s new owners could immediately undertake is to clear away the trees that now grow almost up to the front door, thereby reopening the view to Lough Carra and explaining why the house was built on this site.
Extracted from a letter written by George Henry Moore of Moore Hall, County Mayo to his mother Louisa (née Browne) on 6th May 1846: ‘My dearest Mother, Corunna won the Chester Cup this day. We win the whole £17,000. This is in fact a little fortune. It will give me the means of being very useful to the poor this season. No tenant of mine shall want for plenty of everything this year, and though I shall expect work in return for hire, I shall take care that whatever work is done shall be for the exclusive benefit of the people themselves. I also wish to give a couple of hundred in mere charity to the poorest people about me or being on my estate, so as to make them more comfortable than they are; for instance, a cow to those who want one most, or something else to those who may have a cow, but want some other article of necessary comfort; indeed I will give £500 in this way. I am sure it will be well expended, and the horses will gallop all the faster with the blessing of the poor…’
Moore Hall dates from 1792 and is believed to have been designed by the Waterford architect John Roberts whose other house in this part of the island, Tyrone, County Galway is also now a gaunt ruin. The Moores were an English settler family originally members of the established church who converted to Roman Catholicism following the marriage of John Moore to Mary Lynch Athy of Galway. Their son George Moore, who likewise married an Irish Catholic, moved to Spain where through his mother’s connections with various Wild Geese families, he became successful and rich in the wine export business. In addition he manufactured iodine, a valuable commodity at the time, and shipped seaweed from Galway for its production, owning a fleet of vessels for this purpose. Having made his fortune, George Moore then returned to Ireland and bought land to create an estate of some 12,500 acres. He commissioned a residence to be built on Muckloon Hill with wonderful views across Lough Carra below and the prospect of Ballinrobe’s spires in the far distance. Fronted in cut limestone, Moore Hall stands three storeys over sunken basement, the facade centred on a single-bay breakfront with tetrastyle Doric portico below the first floor Venetian window. A date stone indicates it was completed in 1795, three years before Ireland erupted in rebellion. Among those who took part was George Moore’s eldest son John who after being schooled at Douai had studied law in Paris and London had returned to Ireland where he joined the uprising. On August 31st 1798 the French general Jean Joseph Humbert issued a decree proclaiming John Moore President of the Government of the Province of Connacht. However within weeks the British authorities had crushed the rebellion and captured Moore who died the following year while en route to the east coast where he was due to be deported. George Moore, who had spent some £2,500 attempting to secure his heir’s release, had died just a month earlier.
Moore Hall now passed into the hands of its builder’s second son, also called George Moore. A more studious character than his brother, he is known as an historian who wrote accounts of the English Revolution of 1688 (published in 1817) and, on his death, left behind the manuscript of the history of the French Revolution. He married Louisa Browne, a niece of the first Marquess of Sligo, and the couple had three sons, one of whom died at the age of 17 after a fall from his horse. The same fate would befall the youngest child, Augustus Moore when at 28 he was taking part in a race at Liverpool. He and the eldest son, another George, had set up a racing stable at Moore Hall and become notorious for their fearless recklessness. But this George Moore had an intelligent and sensitive character – while still a teenager he was publishing poetry – and following the death of his brother and the advent of famine in Ireland in the mid-1840s he turned his attention to Moore Hall and the welfare of its tenants. The letter quoted above shows that after his horse Corunna won the Chester Cup in May 1846 he used the proceeds to make sure no one on his land suffered hardship or deprivation. In 1847, having already participated in calling for an all-party convention to work for the betterment of Ireland, he was first elected to Parliament where he proved to be a deft orator (his background as a youthful poet came in handy) and an ardent advocate of the country’s rights: he spoke in favour of the Fenians and was an early supporter of the Tenant League, established to secure fair rents and fixity of tenure in the aftermath of the famine. But his philanthropy was George Moore’s undoing. In the spring of 1870 his Ballintubber tenants withheld their rents, judging he would not dare retaliate. Since Parliament was sitting at the time, he returned from London to settle the matter and four days later died as a result of a stroke.
And so Moore Hall passed to the next, and final, generation, being inherited by another George Moore, one of the greatest prose stylists Ireland has produced, a decisive influence on James Joyce and many another Irish author since. Today his contribution to this country, as well as that of his forebears, is insufficiently appreciated, but during his long lifetime George Moore was recognised as a great writer, as well as a serial controversialist. If he is no longer as celebrated as was once the case, then Moore must accept at least some responsibility for this state of affairs since he was given to creating and maintaining feuds with those who by rights should have been his allies. In his wildly entertaining, if not always credible, three-volume memoir Hail and Farewell he explained, ‘It is difficult for me to believe any good of myself. Within the oftentimes bombastic and truculent appearance that I present to the world, trembles a heart shy as a wren in the hedgerow or a mouse along the wainscotting.’ If no match for his father as a horseman, he inherited the latter’s bravado and audaciousness, and as a result created far too many enemies all of whom relished an opportunity to denigrate him. W.B. Yeats called Moore ‘a man carved out of a turnip’, while Yeats’ father considered Moore ‘an elderly blackguard.’ Middleton Murry described him as ‘a yelping terrier’ and Susan Mitchell ‘an ugly old soul.’ Yet they all had to acknowledge his genius. ‘When it comes to writing,’ declared Ford Madox Ford, yet another opponent, ‘George Moore was a wolf – lean, silent, infinitely sweet and solitary.’ The monument erected to him on Castle Island on Lough Carra rightly proclaims: ‘George Moore Born Moore Hall 1852 died 1933 London He deserted his family and friends For his Art But because he was faithful to his Art His family and Friends Reclaimed his ashes for Ireland.’
In keeping with his character, George Moore always had an ambivalent relationship with Moore Hall. He wrote about it often, both in fiction and fact, but spent relatively little of his adult life in the place. For much of the time the estate was run by his younger brother Maurice with whom, like everyone else, he inevitably quarrelled. Unlike most Irish landowners of the era, however, he understood their time was drawing to a close, that the age of the big house was coming to an close and that the class into which he had been born would soon be no more. As he wrote to his brother in 1909, ‘The property won’t last out even my lifetime, that is to say if I live a long while and there will be nothing I’m afraid for your children…You always put on the philosophic air when I speak of the probable future and say “the future is hidden from us.” But the future of landlords isn’t in the least hidden from us.’ Nor was it, although the end was gratuitously harsh. On February 1st 1923 a local regiment of IRA men arrived at Moore Hall in the middle of the night, ordered the steward to hand over keys, moved bales of straw into the house, poured fuel over these and then set the place alight. It was a callous and philistine act which ignored the patriotic history of the Moores and lost the west of Ireland one of its finest Georgian residences. Many years later Benedict Kiely wrote in the Irish Times that he knew someone who had been present when Moore Hall was burnt and who could list various houses in the area containing looted furniture and other items. Envy and spite seem to have been the arsonists’ primary, if not sole, motivation. Ever since the building has stood empty, the surrounding land today owned by Coillte, a state-sponsored forestry company. With all the sensitivity one might expect from such an organisation, it has planted trees all around the house so that the view down to Lough Carra – the reason Moore Hall was built on this spot – cannot even be glimpsed. There was much talk some few years ago of restoring the building but no more and the final traces of its interior decoration, not least the delicate neo-classical plasterwork, are about to be lost. So this is how Ireland honours her own: more in the breach than in the observance.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 85. “(Lynch/LG1863; Fitzgerald-Kenney/LGI1912) A three storey house of ca 1790 built by the Lynch family. Six bay front, two bay breakfront; tripartite pedimented and fanlighted doorcase. Rooms with ceilings of Adamesque plasterwork, including curved room. Passed by inheritance from the Lynch family to the Fitzgerald-Kenney family.”
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
p. 110. “A large three storey late 18C house with a good tripartite granite Tuscan pedimented doorcase. Good plasterwork in entrance hall and drawing room. Recently destroyed by fire. Now a ruin.”
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached six-bay (three-bay deep) three-storey over part raised basement country house, built 1770; extant 1777, on a symmetrical plan centred on two-bay full-height breakfront; five-bay full-height rear (north) elevation centred on three-bay full-height “bas-relief” breakfront. Damaged, 1839. Occupied, 1911. Sold, 1967. Burnt, 1970. Now in ruins. Hipped roof now missing retaining fragments of slate finish with pressed or rolled lead ridges, paired rendered central chimney stacks on axis with ridge having cut-limestone stringcourses below capping supporting crested terracotta or yellow terracotta pots, and remains of cast-iron rainwater goods to front (south) elevation on creeper- or ivy-covered cut-limestone “Cyma Recta” or “Cyma Reversa” cornice with remains of cast-iron rainwater goods to rear (north) elevation on cut-limestone stepped cornice retaining cast-iron downpipes. Creeper- or ivy-covered fine roughcast walls on lichen-covered dragged cut-limestone chamfered cushion course on fine roughcast base. Round-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement approached by flight of six dragged cut-limestone steps, dragged limestone ashlar doorcase with engaged Doric columns supporting “Cavetto”-detailed pediment on fluted “Dosserets”. Square-headed window openings including square-headed window openings to rear (north) elevation centred on round-headed window opening (first floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed cut-limestone voussoirs framing concrete block infill with some retaining six-over-three (basement), nine-over-six (ground floor), six-over-six (first floor) or three-over-three (top floor) timber sash windows behind arrow head-detailed wrought iron bars. Round-headed central door opening to rear (north) elevation with drag edged dragged cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on keystone framing timber boarded door. Interior in ruins including (basement): groin vaulted cellars. Set in unkempt grounds. Additional photography by James Fraher
Appraisal
The shell of a country house representing an important component of the later eighteenth-century domestic built heritage of south County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, one annotated as “Clougher [of] Lynch Esquire” by Taylor and Skinner (1778 pl. 216), confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate skewed alignment maximising on scenic vistas overlooking a gently rolling grounds; the symmetrical plan form centred on a Classically-detailed doorcase demonstrating good quality workmanship; the definition of the principal floor as a slightly elevated “piano nobile”; and the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression. Although reduced to ruins in the later twentieth century, a prolonged period of exposure thereafter eradicating all traces of ‘[the] ceilings of Adamesque plasterwork’ (Bence-Jones 1978, 85), the elementary form and massing survive intact together with remnants of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior, including some crown or cylinder glazing panels in hornless sash frames. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (see 31310002); and a walled garden (see 31310003), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having historic connections with the Lynch family including Patrick Lynch (NUIG); the Crean-Lynch family including Andrew Crean-Lynch JP DL (1787-1853), one-time High Sheriff of County Mayo (fl. 1832); and Major Patrick Crean-Lynch JP DL (1814-81), one-time High Sheriff of County Mayo (fl. 1846); and the FitzGerald-Kenney family including Colonel James Christopher FitzGerald Kenney (d. 1877), ‘late of Clogher House Ballyglass County Mayo and of Merrion-square South Dublin’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1877, 382); and James FitzGerald-Kenney TD (1878-1956), ‘Magistrate [and] Barrister’ (NA 1911) and one-time Minister for Justice (fl. 1927-32).
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
Farmyard complex, extant 1838, including (south): Attached five-bay single-storey coach house-cum-stable outbuilding with half-attic on a symmetrical plan originally detached. Now in ruins. Remains of pitched slate roof on timber construction with no rainwater goods surviving on cut-limestone eaves retaining cast-iron downpipes. Lime rendered or roughcast coursed rubble limestone walls with concealed tooled cut-limestone flush quoins to corners. Segmental-headed central carriageway with drag edged tooled cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on triple keystone. Camber-headed flanking door openings with drag edged tooled cut-limestone block-and-start surrounds centred on triple keystones. Square-headed window openings with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills (ground floor), and concealed dressings framing eight-over-eight timber sash windows (ground floor) or louvered timber fittings (half-attic). Interior in ruins. Set in unkempt grounds shared with Clogher House.
Appraisal
A farmyard complex contributing positively to the group and setting values of the Clogher House estate.
Clogher House, County Mayo, courtesy National Inventory.
According to Bence Jones this house was built circa 1798 though Wilson refers to a house at Clogher as the seat of Patrick Lynch in 1786. In 1844 Samuel Nicholson described Clogher House as “amongst the largest and the best in the Country, and appears to be kept in excellent order”. Patrick C. Lynch was leasing it from Sir Robert H. Blosse at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £40. It was in the ownership of the Fitzgerald Kenney family at the beginning of the 20th century and is now a ruin.
Clogher House in Co. Mayo was built in the 1770’s and existed for nearly 200 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1970. This house and estate were once part of a community of ‘Big Houses’ that existing in the Ballyglass area which included the Moores of nearby Moore Hall and the Blakes of Towerhill House. These land owning families were Catholic and in the 1860’s the tenantry of Moore Hall, Clogher and Tower Hill would meet at mass in the neabychapel at Carnacun. George Moore recalled that ‘they all collected around the gateway of the chapel to admire the carriages of their landlords‘. The Moore family pew was the first seat on the right hand side of the church with the Clogher pew behind it. However the landed families sat on the upper level of the church while the tenants sat in the main body of the church below them. Moore would also recall that the Clogher ‘girls‘ Helena, Livy, Lizy and May used to sit there. He also fondly remembered going to Clogher to gather cherries and how his father George Henry Moore was impressed by the inventiveness of the Clogher ‘girls‘ when they made a hearth rug for their dolls house from the skin of dead mouse. In 1914, George Moore said that ‘a last Lynch lives his lonely life in Clogher‘ and also suggested that Clogher would make a fine home for the Franciscans. He thought this course of action was a good idea as ‘Lynch is a Roman Catholic: he has no children, what better could he do.’ The ‘last Lynch‘ as referred to by George Moore was James Fitzgerald-Kenney, who in 1913 stated that his ancestors, the Lynch Blosses, came to Clogher in 1720 from Castle Carra, a junior branch of the Lynch Blosse family baronets. They obtained leases of the Clogher estate, in the parishes of Burriscarra , Drum, Carra, Tagheen, barony of Clanmorris in the County of Mayo, for 999 years from Sir Henry Lynch Blosse, 8th Baronet in 1788. James Fitzgerald-Kenney, in 1913, also referred to the old house of Clogher, inhabited by his ancestors up to 1780. He said that the Penal Laws at the time only allowed Catholics to live in houses of no more than one storey high so the laying of the foundations of the present Clogher House coincided with the relaxation of the these laws. The Lynch family of Clogher House had the rare privilege of having Papal authority to celebrate the ceremony of Benediction of the Most Blessed Sacrament in their house, it was said at the time to be a privilege enjoyed by very few.
A photo of the house possibly taken in the 1960’s from the Facebook page of Lost Buildings of Ireland who received it from William Fitzgerald Kenney
Originally a smaller house when first built, a storm in January 1839 resulted in a number of changes being made to the structure. The roof of the mansion was torn off in the storm known as ‘The Big Wind’ despite it being covered in heavy stone slates. As Clogher was left roofless, the opportunity was taken to remodel the house, add another story while replacing the roof. In 1844 Samuel Nicholson described Clogher House as “amongst the largest and the best in the Country, and appears to be kept in excellent order“. Clogher sat in a demesne of 640 acres, the structure was three-storey over part raised basement, with six bays on the entrance front incorporating a two bay break-front with tripartite pediment and fan lighted door-case. Internally, the house comprised of twenty-eight rooms incorporating a drawing room, library and chapel. The main reception rooms had ceilings of fine Adamesque plaster work and the front hall featuring an elaborate curved ceiling, which can be seen in some photographs below.
Some surviving photos of the entrance hall of the house where the circular ceiling can be seen
Copyright: The Architectural Archive
Another family involved with the history of Clogher House was the O’Crean family, who were said to be of great antiquity. They possessed large estates in Co. Sligo but lost them during the time of religious persecution. The O’Creans formed alliances with many families and Henry Crean born in 1670, married in 1703, Catherine, daughter of Thomas Blake of Bolebeg, Co. Mayo. This union produced Andrew Crean, who in 1751 married Mary, daughter and heiress of Dominick Lynch, Newborough, Galway. Andrew assumed the additional name of Lynch. His only surviving son, Dominick Crean-Lynch married in 1784, Julia, the daughter of Martin Brown of Cloonfad, Co. Roscommon. Their eldest son, Andrew Crean-Lynch of Hollybrook married in 1811 Elizabeth, the eldest daughter of Patrick Lynch of Clogher House and in 1818, Clogher House is referred to as the house of the ‘late’ Patrick Lynch. It is also recorded that Andrew Crean-Lynch bought the Clogher estate from his brother-in-law Patrick Lynch. Andrew and Elizabeth’s union produced five children, Dominick born 1812 but died young, Patrick born 1814, Joseph born 1828 together with two daughters Mary and Ann. Patrick Crean-Lynch succeeded and lived at Clogher House. In 1828, an Edward Lynch of Clogher House is recorded as having died followed in 1844 by Joseph Crean-Lynch who died aged only 17 years of age. His remains were interred at Thagheen Chapel near Hollybrook, Claremorris. During the Famine in 1847, it was said that no tenant of the estate died of hunger, however many did die of fever which then raged through the country. By the 1860’s ,Patrick Crean-Lynch was in financial difficulties and advertised for sale both his Hollybrook and Clogher estates. Part of the Hollybrook estate was in the parishes of Kilbennan and Kilconla, barony of Dunmore, county Galway. The Irish Times reported details of the purchasers of some lots in this sale though other lots were adjourned. Patrick Crean-Lynch was a Justice of the Peace, District Lieutenant, High Sheriff and a Major in the South Mayo Militia. He married in 1845, Marcella, the daughter of Sir Michael Dillion Bellew, this marriage produced four daughters but no male heir.
The tripartite pediment and fan lighted door-case Copyright: The Architectural Archive
In August 1870, one of Patrick’s daughters, Helena Mary, married James Charles Fitzgerald-Kenney of Kilclogher, County Galway. so it was necessary that a marriage alliance was arranged between the Crean Lynchs and the Fitzgerald-Kenney’s. This marriage produced a number of children beginning in June 1871, when Marcella Jane Antonia Mary de Kenne was born in Number 2 Merrion Square. She was followed by William, born in November 1872, who was baptised William Lionel Crean Nicholas De Kenne in December of the year of his birth. In February 1875, at No. 2 Merrion Square,it was reported that a daughter, Helena Julia Olivia was born to James C. Fitzgerald-Kenney and his wife. She was baptised Helena Julia Olivia Anna De Kenne at St. Andrews Church on Westland Row. On Sunday, September 24th 1876 at Merrion Square, the wife of James Fitzgerald-Kenney Esq. of Kilclogher, Co. Galway and Clogher House, Co. Mayo gave birth to a son. However tragedy struck when James Christopher Fitzgerald-Kenney, the husband of Helena Mary, died on the 31st October 1877 at Clogher House. He left an estate valued under £14,000 and it is noted that he is late of Clogher House, Co. Mayo, Kilclogher, Co. Galway and No. 2 Merrion Square, South Dublin. He was aged 58 at the time of his death. In November 1877, a newspaper notice was published which advertised an auction at Clogher House to include the extensive sale of 183 head of cattle sheep and horses together with carriages, hay and farming implements. Also offered for sale was the entire furniture of the house noted as formerly being the residence of Major Crean-Lynch. The auctioneers also noted that they have been favoured with instructions from the representatives of the late J.C. Fitzgerald-Kenny. The man who go on to have a successful legal and political career in 20th century Ireland , was actually born after the death of his father. In April 1878, James Fitzgerald-Kenney was born in No. 2 Merrion Square and it is noted on his birth cert that his father was deceased. He was baptised James Christopher de Kenne Fitzgerald-Kenney on the 9th May 1878 in St. Andrew’s Church Westland Row.
The breakfront and steps to the house Copyright ICHC
On June 14th, 1894, Harry James Christopher Kenney died aged 20 as the result of an accident. He was the second son of the late J.C. Fitzgerald Kenny of Kilclogher Co. Galway and Merrion SquareDublin. He was described as popular young gentleman and was returning from the Ballinrobe Racces when the accident occurred. He had attended the races and had won two events but his lifeless body was found the following morning on the roadside near Clogher House. His horse standing on the roadside with its reins still in the hands of the deceased. After mass was celebrated in Clogher House, the cortege left the house at 3pm for interment in the family vault at Drum, a graveyard found within a mile of Clogher. It was reported that the house was’ literally besieged during the days of mourning , and was a telling proof of the affectionate regard in which this old Catholic family is held, the room in which the remains were laid, was constantly thronged with the old and young of the neighbourhood‘. As the coffin was borne out of Clogher House ‘ the vast multitude around gave expression to their feeling in a loud burst of sorrow. The large cortege of carriages, cars and the numerous peasantry that followed the remains, filled the avenue from the house to the entrance gate‘. The coffin was carried all the way to the graveyard on the shoulders of the tenantry who wore white scarves. Present at the funeral was the Archbishop of Tuam, a number of clergy from surrounding parishes and the Monks of Errew Monastery. Later in the month, a letter appeared in ‘The Western People’ owing to the false rumours regarding the death of Harry and stated that his death was as a result of a fall from his horse. It was also stated that the victim had a weak heart from childhood and was prone to sudden faintness or dizziness which may have caused the fatal fall.However the rumour that abounded at the time was that Captain Blake of nearby Towerhill and Harry had been drinking at the local pub in Carnacon. Captain Blake stated that he wished to marry Harry’s older sister, Harry let it be known that the Blake family were not thought of as being suitable to marry into his family. A number of hours later Harry was found dead on the side of the road near his home.
The Rear Facade of Clogher House Copyright ICHC
Prior to 1894, there appeared to be good relations between the Fitzgerald-Kenney’s and their tenants. However one year later in 1895, there were a number of hearings for ejectments to carried out on the estate for the recovery of rent arrears due to Mrs. Fitzgerald-Kenney of Clogher House. In the 1901 census the house is listed as being owned by Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney and that it extended to 28 rooms. Residing in the house at this time is Helena, a widow aged 53, her daughter also named Helena aged 24, son James aged 22, a practicing barrister together two servants. It is noted that all Helena’s children were born in Dublin. In May 1903, Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney late of Clogher House died and the probate of her will was granted to James Fitzgerald Kenney B.L. in the amount of £ 1,335 16s 2d. Clogher House and its lands passed to her son James. By 1911, James Fitzgerald-Kenney is still living in Clogher House with another sister Marcella who is a Local Government Board Inspector. In 1920, a long running dispute between the tenants of the estate and James Kenney came to sad conclusion. From 1913 there had been constant trouble around the Clogher estate and the RIC had to provide protection to the Fitzgerald-Kenney family members. James Fitzgerald-Kenney had refused to sell any of his lands to local tenants after which, the locals resorted to a boycott of the estate. The manager of the estate Michael O’Toole had nine children and could not afford to stop working for the Fitzgerald-Kenneys and received a warning from the tenants of the estate. As a result O’Toole and another man named Michael Ferrangher were attacked and beaten. O’Toole died of his injuries but Ferrangher survived for a short period before he succumbed. Michael Ferragher had worked on the estate for 26 years prior to his death as a coachman. The suspects who were thought to have carried out the beating were eventually released without charge. The families of the deceased men received compensation for their loss, yet the murders remained unsolved to this day.
Mourners arriving at Glasnevin Cemetery for the burial service of Michael Collins in 1922. Future Minister for Justice James Fitzgerald-Kenney of Clogher House, Co. Mayo is on the far left.
In 1918, James Fitzgerald-Kenney proved counsel for Mr. Edward Martyn of Tulira Castle, Galway in an injunction that he took against a local farmer that was trespassing on this demesne. In 1934, it was reported that Miss Helena Fitzgerald-Kenney had placed her beautiful and ancient residence at the disposal of the Mayo Branch of the National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children for the branch’s annual general meeting. Helena J. Fitzgerald-Kenney was a member of the Mayo Executive of the I.S.P.C.C. and was a council member of the N.S.P.C.C. During Christmas 1949, an invitation was extended from Miss Helena Fitzgerald-Kenny for Midnight Mass to be celebrated at Clogher House. The mass was held in the drawing room which was transformed into an oratory for the occasion. The congregation was made up of staff and people from the area surrounding Clogher. After his mother’s death Clogher was home to James Fitzgerald-Kenney, Cumann na nGaedheal TD for South Mayo 1927-1944 and Minister for Justice 1927-1932. He had inherited Clogher through his mother’s family and made it his home until his death in 1956 together with his siblings. He was educated in Clongowes Wood College and University College Dublin were he graduated with a BA in 1898 and was called to the Irish Bar in 1899. He built up an extensive practice in Dublin and on the Connaught Circuit and was called to the Inner Bar in 1925. He joined the Irish National Volunteers in 1914 and was for a time an Inspecting Officer for South Mayo. In 1927, he was elected to the Dail, and shortly afterwards, following the shooting of the first minister for Justice, Kevin O’Higgins, he was appointed Secretary to the Minister for Justice. After the elections of September 1927, James was re-elected for South Mayo and became Minister for Justice. After his retirement in 1944 from politics, he resumed his legal practice and eventually retired to his farm at Clogher. James Fitzgerald- Kenney died aged 78 in 1956 in a Dublin hospital and his remains were removed from Dublin to Carnacon Church near Clogher with burial taking place in Drum graveyard near the house. James was predeceased by his brother, in August 1954, the death occurred of William Lionel Fitzgerald-Kenney at Clogher House. After his father’s death and being the eldest son, while still a minor, he inherited his father’s property at Kilclogher and Keelogues near Glenamaddy, Co. Galway. In 1900, he sold all his property having previously married in 1896, Josephine Delmas, the daughter of one of the foremost and best known lawyers, Delphin M. Delmas of San Francisco. William emigrated to California in 1902 to be near his wife’s relatives and lived there until he returned to Clogher House in 1949 where he lived until his death. James surviving sisters continued to live at Clogher House after his death. In October 1957, James’s sister Helena died , the chief mourners at her funeral were her sister Miss Marcella Fitzgerald-Kenney and Mrs. John Sweetman from Kells. The Kenney-Fitzgerald family association with Clogher came to an end with the death of Marcella Fitzgerald-Kenney, who died in 1965 at the County Hospital in Castlebar. All the family members are buried at the nearby Drum graveyard.
James Fitzgerald Kenney
As a result of the death of the last Kenney-Fitzgerald sibling to live in the house, two years later in 1967, the contents of the Clogher were offered for sale at auction. This included the contents of the library that extended to over 3,000 books together with both Celestial and Terrestrial globes. The contents of the house was obviously extensive as it took four days to conduct the sale. In the auction catalogue from 1967, the following rooms and area’s in the house are mentioned, the Library, the back drawing room, entrance hall, inner hall and staircase, four bedrooms and the top floor which had a full size billiard table. The house had an extensive library as the sale of its contents accounted for one full day of the four day auction. The books amounted to 3,000 copies that covered topics such as history, law, architecture, medicine, agriculture, forestry, gardening, travel, trade and religion. There were books written by George and Maurice Moore who had lived on the neighbouring estate together with books by Douglas Hyde and Yeats. There was a copy of ‘ The Trials of George R. Fitzgerald and others held at Castlebar , taken from the notes of a Gentleman’ dating from 1786. The architecture books appeared to contain a number of volumes regarding designs for ornamental cottages, rural cottages, small villas, labourers cottages and farm cottages. Some of the medical books dated from the mid 1600’s and a large number of books dated from the 1700’s featured in the sale, which means they predated the house. As the books were so numerous, a large quantity were not listed, with some being sold by the shelf. The library also had a collection of maps which included an Atlas with geographical and historical accounts of the empires printed for Daniel Brown in London in 1721. There were also fifty sheets of maps of the maritime aspect of County Mayo. After the auction the house was sold to a timber merchant but unfortunately having survived the turbulent 1920’s in Ireland, in January 1970, Clogher House was destroyed in a fire. At the time the house stood on 200 acres having once been surrounded by a demesne of 640 acres. Despite the efforts of fire brigades from Claremorris and Ballinrobe the house was reduced to ruins. It was said that strong gales on the night of the fire hampered efforts to save the house. Clogher was unoccupied at the time and was looked after by a caretaker who lived nearby. Today the house languishes in ruins and is slowly being reclaimed by nature.
Clogher House after it was destroyed by fire in 1970
Rockbarton, County Limerick entrance front c. 1900, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 243. “(O’Grady, Guillamore, V/PB1953) A three storey house with a three bay front, C19 in its facing but basically late C18. Centre bay breaking forward; single storey Ionic portico; heavy triangular and segmental pediments on console brackets over windows. Curved bow at side. It originally had a spacious three flight cantilevered stone staircase. Now a ruin.”
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Remains of detached three-bay three-storey former country house and outbuildings, c. 1790, with additions dating to 1833. House formerly with a central bay breakfront with single-storey Roman Ionic portico and a curved bow at side of house. Square-profile dressed limestone entrance piers with decorative carved caps and double-leaf wrought-iron gate.
Appraisal
Rockbarton House was formerly the seat of Lord Guillamore. Although now a ruin, it was a significant house in the area with work carried out in early nineteenth century by the well known architect James Pain. The survival of the attendant structures such as the outbuildings and the lodges is significant. As a group, they are important structures within the architectural heritage of County Limerick.
Rockbarton House was constructed in the late 18th century. It is said to have been a stunningly beautiful residence with exquisite fittings & furniture and a sweeping staircase of portland stone.
Rockbarton House was the main residence of Standish O’Grady (1766-1840) who was the chief prosecuting counsel in the trial of Robert Emmett who was hanged for treason in 1803.
The House was subsequently occupied by the 2nd Lord Fermoy when he married into the O’Grady family in 1877 and finally by Nigel Baring, of the Baring banking dynasty, who married Lord Fermoy’s only daughter, Sybil in 1908.
Nigel Baring spent stg.£30,000 on a major refurnbishment of Rockbarton House and stableyard in 1908. However, within a few short years the Golden Age of Irelands Great Houses came to an end. Ireland became a dangerous place for the ascendancy and Nigel Baring was forced to flee Ireland leaving his beloved Rockbarton Estate behind him. The Estate was divided by the Land Commission in 1922. The house was stripped down and sold off bit by bit. It eventually fell into disrepair and an auction was held to dipose of the remaining fixtures and fittings. The staircase is known to have been sold and installed in a house in London. All that now stands as a testament to the grandure of Rockbarton is its Courtyard where our Garden Centre is located.
The History of Rockbarton & Caherguillamore Houses
By Mary Sheehan
Rockbarton and Caherguillamore were both situated on the same estate and were originally O’Grady houses. Caherguillamore House was the Dower house while Rockbarton was a much larger house. Both houses were occupied by O’Grady’s and those who married into the O’Grady clan.
Rockbarton House was built at the end of the 18th century, when many Irish Country Houses were erected, while Caherguillamore House would already have been in place by this time. All that remains today of these houses are the ruins, the remains of the woodland, the Rockbarton stable yard & workers’ living quarters and the gate lodge. The Caherguillamore/Rockbarton Estate was a very impressive place in the 1920’s when Nigel Baring left Ireland. At that time it had a sophisticated underground drainage system and a water supply from a reservoir situated above Rockbarton House. The golden age of these houses was from the late 1700’s to early 20th century. In the early 1800’s the First Viscount Guillamore took up residence at Rockbarton and his descendants remained there until 1922.
Caherguillamore was situated in a valley and surrounded by rising ground. The house was approached by an avenue of ash and elm., which was almost a mile long. This avenue into Caherguillamore is now known as ‘Burma Road’ and it still retains much of its quaint and ancient atmosphere although several houses have since been erected there. The parkland contained Cedar of Lebanon trees and was well stocked with deer. The demesne is reputed to have been one of the most interesting in the County for Raths and other remaining antiquities.
Rockbarton House was also splendidly furnished having a fine hall with a noble staircase of Portland stone. The house also facilitated large apartments which would have been decorated to the highest standards of the time.
Chief Baron O’Grady – First Viscount Guillamore
In the 1700’s Standish O’Grady married Hanora Hayes who was co-heir to properties at Caherguillamore and in this way the Caherguillamore estate passed into the O’Grady family. Standish O’Grady’s grandson who was also called Standish was born in 1767. He was to become Chief Baron and the First Viscount Guillamore and Rockbarton House was his place of residence. Standish was a lawyer and a contemporary of Daniel O’Connell. His promotion in the legal profession was rapid and in 1803 he was appointed as Attorney General for Ireland. Subsequently, he was the leading officer for the Crown during the prosecution for Treason of Robert Emmet. The government was highly impressed with his conduct of the case and as a result promoted him to Chief Baron of His Majesty’s Court of Exchequer. He was again honoured in 1831 when he was raised to the peerage as Viscount Guillamore.
In legal history of the time he was viewed as a humorist and as a fairly rough character. It is also recorded that he spoke with a broad County Limerick accent which indicates that his links with his Irish roots may have been stronger than his links with the ascendancy. Locally, his reputation for imposing the death penalty as a punishment for trivial offences grew and so he became known as the ‘Bloody Judge’. However, his involvement in the trial of Robert Emmett may be the reason for his unpopularity in local folklore.
His local reputation as the ‘Bloody Judge’ who showed no mercy to anyone is said to by some to be somewhat unfair as, at that time hanging was the penalty for many offences. In fact in many of the recorded cases of the time he was seen to be a fair judge. He was originally Judge in the Case of the Doneraile Conspiracy, which is the subject of Canon Sheehan’s book ‘Glenanaar’ .
In the early 1800’s there would have been a lot of Whiteboy activity around Doneraile and around this time a local landlord’s son was murdered as a result of these activities. In an attempt to solve the case the authorities of the time offered a reward of Stg.£750 for any information given which would lead to convictions. An unsavoury character offered information, which implicated over seventeen men from the Doneraile district. One of the accused, O’Leary, was a man over seventy years old. Chief Baron O’Grady, who was the Judge at the initial assizes, was suspicious of this informer and did not go along with the Crown as he recommended to the Jury that they should not find anyone guilty on the evidence of an informer. Subsequently, two other judges came into the case and the prisoners were found guilty and sentenced to death. Later, Daniel O’Connell came out of retirement to appeal the case and the conspiracy was uncovered.
In local folklore, it is said that the Judge O’Grady condemned a priest to death in Clonmel. The condemned priest cursed O’Grady by saying ‘May you never die’. Later, he suffered from paralysis and it is said that the skin rotted off his body. During this time his greatest wish was to die, but it was not until a Father O’Grady from Bruff prayed over him that he died. His body lay in state for a week in the spacious library at Rockbarton, awaiting the nobility of Ireland to assemble at the funeral. The body was interred in the O’Grady vault at Knockainey Churchyard.Lt. Col. Standish O’Grady – Second Viscount Guillamore
The elder son of the Chief Baron was also known as Standish O’Grady. He commanded the 7th Hussars and fought in the European wars against Napoleon. Upon Napoleons’ return from Elba he sailed for Brussels with his regiment to assist Wellington. When fighting the French at Genappe he secured a safe march to Waterloo for the 7th Hussars, where they were destined to defeat Napoleon. This was considered to have been his greatest military achievement and in recognition he was promoted as Aide-de-Camp to the Queen.
Locally, it is known that he had a beautiful white charger which he rode into battle, but that had never before obliged him by jumping any ditch. However during a retreat from the French this white steed took a great leap over a wide ditch thus saving O’Grady’s life.
Later when O’Grady retired from the army he brought the horse back to Caherguillamore where it was allotted a rich pasture and is reputed to have been buried at the gates of Caherguillamore. During O’Grady’s retirement he married and took up residence at Caherguillamore House. He also became involved in politics and represented Limerick in parliament. He donated the land at Meanus for the building of the Church there. On the death of this father in 1840 he succeeded to the title Viscount Guillamore and he continued to live at Caherguillamore House until his death. As was the case with his father, he was buried in the family vault in Knockainey.Standish O’Grady – 3rd Viscount Guillamore
Information on Standish O’Grady, 3rd Viscount Guillamore is sparse. It is known that he was buried in Knockainey churchyards along with his father and grandfather. According to his headstone he died on April 10th 1860 at the young age of 27. However it is not known what caused his untimely death. On the death of Standish, the 3rd Viscount Guillamore, the Guillamore title passed from the Rockbarton/Caherguillamore branch of the O’Grady’s to the Rathfreda branch. This is due to the fact that he was predeceased by his only son who died in 1856, aged one and a half.
The final holder of the Guillamore title was Standish Bruce O’Grady who died in 1955. Therefore, the title which was created in 1831 for the then Chief Baron O’Gardy who was referred to locally as the ‘Bloody Judge’ lasted a little more than a century.2nd Lord Fermoy
The only surviving child of the 3rd Viscount Guillamore was Cecilia O’Grady. She married the 2nd Lord Fermoy in 1877 and brought the properties of Rockbarton and Caherguillamore to the marriage as both of her parents were dead. Therefore Lord Fermoy came to Rockbarton in 1877.
Lord Fermoy was from Co. Cork and the family name was Roche. The Fermoy’s seem to have had some financial difficulties and Lord Fermoy’s father required his Carrignavar tenants to increase their rents in 1850’s to boost the depleted finances of the Roche family. Their fortunes collapsed completely in the 1870’s. Lord Fermoy’s estate of 19,530 acres estate was then pushed onto the market by Norwich Union Insurance Company. Obviously the marriage to Cecilia O’Gardy had a lot of financial advantages for the Second Lord Fermoy. Fermoy was also known to be very interested in greyhounds. He enjoyed a gamble and is reputed to have lost a fortune on the Waterloo Cup. He had a dog running in the Waterloo Cup which he believed was a ‘dead cert’ to win. The dog was interfered with and Lord Fermoy lost a large sum of money. Lord Fermoy lived at Caherguillamore until his death in 1920. He had one daughter, Ada Sybil, who married Nigel Baring.
Nigel Baring was born in Essex in 1870. His father was TC Baring a member of the banking family. His mother, Susan Minturn, was an American heiress. Nigel Baring had a lifelong passion for horses and hunting. He came to Ireland in 1896, and became a famed master of the Duhallow Hounds. His fame was mainly linked to the fact that he bred a pack of hounds for the Duhallows that were famous for their ferocity. His own love of the hunt was also famed as his renowned toast over port was ‘more blood’. He spent 12 years with the Duhallows and was respected both as a huntsman and as a master. In the final season of his mastership he married Sybil Roche and moved to Rockbarton House with his new bride. There he took up mastership of the Limerick Hounds and spent 14 years with them. His retirement from hunting was made necessary due to a hunting accident. Nigel Baring was known to be generous in nature. The late Major Ged O’Dwyer recalled in his memoirs that when he followed the hunt as a young boy on his donkey ‘Bess’ he was looked on with distain by some of the hunting fraternity but was encouraged and befriended by Nigel Baring. It is worth noting that he attributed his love of horses and his success on the International stage to the encouragement he received from Nigel Baring. It is also recorded by Major O’Dwyer how in the early 1920’s he was part of an IRA unit that raided Rockbarton House for ammunition and guns. He stated his case to Nigel Baring and the guns and ammunition were handed over. Nigel Baring, whilst regarded as a member of the landed gentry, was not interested in politics and no intimation was ever given by him to the authorities as to the identity of the raiders.
In 1908 Nigel Baring spent Stg.£30,000 on Rockbarton House and estate, which at that time was a large sum of money. The stable yard was upgraded, an underground drainage system was installed and Italian craftsmen were brought to Rockbarton to decorate the ceilings. A beautiful marble and brass staircase was installed. One can imagine that the Estate must have been considered impressive and it provided employment for a lot of people. When Nigel Baring and his family left Rockbarton in 1922 this source of employment dried up for many people and the nearby town of Bruff went into decline. The 1920’s were a very dangerous time in Ireland for members of the ascendancy and in 1922 Nigel Barings’ horses were stolen. The thieves removed the horse’s shoes and put them on back to front in order to mislead the police. This act of hostility was the catalyst, which led to his decision to leave Ireland.
Nigel Baring was buried in England. His wife Sybil, who died in 1944 was buried in St John’s churchyard in Knockainey. After 1922 the Caherguillamore/Rockbarton Estate was acquired by the Land Commission and divided up into small holdings that were distributed amongst various people of the locality and new families came into the area to work these holdings. Several of the people who worked on the estate received land and houses. Nigel Baring had houses built for the estate workers at Meanus, which were known as ‘The New Houses’.
In 1920 Caherguillamore house was the scene of a bloody massacre at the hands of the Black and Tans. Caherguillamore was burnt out during the troubles and Rockbarton House was sold. It was never again occupied but the house was stripped down and sold off bit by bit. An auction was eventually held and the remaining fittings and furnishings were sold off. The staircase and fountain are known to have been sold and installed in a house in London.
Whilst the houses themselves are now but a memory, the folklore about these houses and their impact on the locality remain. The love of horses and the horse related pursuits which were encouraged by Nigel Baring and the O’Grady’s continue to be a vibrant part of life in County Limerick today.Sources The History of Bruff – Pius Browne History of Limerick – McGregor & Fitzgerald Famous Irish Trials – Hedley McKay History of Limerick and it’s Antiquities – Lenihan Glenanaar – Canon Sheehan Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland Forgotten Dreams – Tom Twomey Topographical Dictionary of Ireland – S Lewis Research on Baring Family in Ireland, Ann Ashton, Anne Baring, Gillian Cooke Memories of Rockbarton recorded by late John Fraher – Alice Fraher.
Mount Shannon, County Limerick entrance front c. 1900, photograph: William Garner, Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 216. “(Fitzgibbon/IFR) A two storey C18 house, enlarged and magnificently furnished by John Fitzgibbon, 1st Earl of Clare, Lord Chancellor of Ireland at the time of the Union and one of the most powerful men in the Ireland of his day; remodelled in neo-Classical style post 1813 by Byron’s friend, 2nd Earl, to the design of Lewis Wyatt. James Pain also worked here for second Earl, either supervising the remodelling according to Wyatt’s design, or carrying out subsequent alterations. Seven bay entrance front with pedimented porte-cochere of four giant Ionic columns. Adjoining front of five bays, the end bays breaking forward and having Wyatt windows under relieving arches in their lower storey. Lower service wing. Large rooms, but hardly any internal ornament; fine hall and library; French gilt furniture in the drawing room and morning room. 3rd and last Earl of Clare, who did not have the Government pension which 1st and 2nd Earls had enjoyed, and who was generous in giving financial help to emigrants after the Famine, left the estate impoverished; so that his daughter, who inherited it, was obliged to sell most of the valuable contents of the house 1888. The house itself was sold ca 1893 to the Nevin family; it is now a ruin.”
John Fitzgibbon, 1st Earl of Clare (1749-1802) Date c.1799-1800 by Hugh Douglas Hamilton, Irish, 1740-1808, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.John Fitzgibbon (1792–1851), 2nd Earl of Clare by John Jackson, courtesy of National Trust.
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
THE EARLS OF CLARE WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LIMERICK, WITH 10,316 ACRES
The Earls of Clare are said to have represented a collateral branch of the Duke of Leinster’s family; the FitzGibbons, the chief of whom was styled “The White Knight“, being descended from the FitzGeralds, Barons Offaly, progenitors of the great houses of KILDARE and DESMOND; as were the Knights of Glin, of the Valley, and of Kerry, titles conferred on junior branches of the house of FitzGerald, by the Earl of Desmond, as Count Palatine.
JOHN FITZGIBBON (c1708-80), of Mount Shannon, County Limerick, fourth son of Thomas FitzGibbon, of Ballyseeda, County Limerick,and his wife, Honor, was an eminent barrister, who published a work entitled “Notes of Cases determined at Westminster”, which was highly spoken of by Lord Chancellor Hardwicke.
He wedded Ellinor, daughter of John Grove, of Ballyhimmock, County Cork, and had issue,
JOHN, his successor; Arabella; Elizabeth; Eleanor.
Mr FitzGibbon was succeeded by his son, THE RT HON JOHN FITZGIBBON (1748-1802), who having been bred to the Bar, was appointed Attorney-General of Ireland, 1784; and, five years later, filled the high office of LORD CHANCELLOR OF IRELAND.
This gentleman was elevated to the peerage, in 1789, in the digniy of Baron FitzGibbon, of Lower Connello, County Limerick.
His lordship was advanced to a viscountcy, in 1793, as Viscount FitzGibbon, of Limerick; and further advanced to the dignity of an earldom, in 1795, as EARL OF CLARE.
He wedded, in 1786, Anne, eldest daughter of Richard Chapel Whaley, of Whaley Abbey, and had issue, JOHN, his successor; RICHARD HOBART, 3rd Earl; Isabella Mary Anne; Louisa; Isabella. His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son, JOHN, 2nd Earl (1792-1851), KP, PC, who espoused, in 1826, Elizabeth Julia Georgiana, daughter of Peter, 1st Baron Gwydyr. The 2nd Earl, Governor of Bombay, 1830-34, Privy Counsellor, 1830, Knight of St Patrick, 1845, Lord-Lieutenant of County Limerick, 1848-51, was succeeded by his brother, RICHARD HOBART, 3rd Earl (1793-1864), who married, in 1825, Diana, daughter of Charles Brydges Woodcock, and had issue, JOHN CHARLES HENRY, styled Viscount FitzGibbon (1829-54); killed in action at the Battle of Balaclava; Eleanor Sophia Diana; Florence; Louisa Isabella Georgina. His lordship, MP for County Limerick, 1818-41, Usher and Registrar of Affidavits in the Irish Court of Chancery 1810-36, Lord Lieutenant of County Limerick, 1831-48 and 1851-64, was pre-deceased by his son, and the titles expired.
On display in the coach-house of Newbridge House is the sumptuous state coach made in London, in 1790, for John FitzGibbon, 1st Earl of Clare, Lord Chancellor of Ireland and a relation of the Cobbe family.
The coach had been painted black until restored by the Irish National Museum to its former golden magnificence – even the fresco panels had been painted out, probably for the funeral of Queen Victoria.
MOUNTSHANNON HOUSE, near Castleconnell, County Limerick, was an 18th century mansion, bought from the White family by John FitzGibbon before 1780.
Seven-bay entrance front with pedimented porte-cochere of four massive Ionic columns; adjoining front of five bays.
The rooms were large and spacious, though boasted little internal ornament; a fine hall and library; French gilt furniture in the drawing-room and morning-room.
The 1st Earl was one of the most powerful men in Ireland at the time.
The house was re-modelled in neo-classical style after 1813 to the designs of Lewis Wyatt.
Mount Shannon appears to have been called Ballingown on the Taylor and Skinner map of the late 1770s.
Mark Bence Jones writes that it was enlarged by the 1st Earl of Clare and remodelled by the 2nd Earl.
The contents of the house were sold in 1888 and the house was purchased by the Nevin family ca 1893 (Bence Jones).
The 3rd and last Earl, who didn’t have the government pension that his predecessors enjoyed, and who was most generous in providing financial succour to emigrants after the Irish famine, left the estate impoverished.
As a consequence, his daughter, who inherited the estate, was obliged to sell most of the precious contents of the house in 1888.
Lady Louisa Georgina FitzGibbon, daughter of the 3rd Earl, came into possession of Mountshannon on the death of her father. She was a very extravagant and over-charitable woman who gave lavish banquets and balls at the mansion to which all the aristocracy and landed gentry from Limerick and neighbouring counties were invited…
But the world of reality eventually took control as Lady Louisa frittered away the Fitzgibbon fortune and ran up huge debts in an effort to keep up the grand lifestyle to which she had become accustomed.
She became engaged to a Sicilian nobleman, The Marquis Della Rochella, thinking his wealth would rescue her from financial ruin, only to discover that her betroth was himself almost penniless and was marrying her for the same reason.
During a sumptuous party in the mansion to announce their engagement, the sheriff arrived to seize some of the mansion’s valuable effects.
Two large paintings hanging in the main hall were among the items earmarked for confiscation, but were found to have holes burned through the canvas when the sheriff’s men were removing them. The restored and still very valuable pictures were in later years hung in the hall of Dublin Castle.
It was on this occasion that the Marquis discovered that Lady Louisa, like himself, was bankrupt but, noble gentleman that he was, he went ahead with the marriage – even if it was a misguided union.
The Marquis, unaccustomed to the Irish climate, fell into bad health and died a few years later, still pining for his native sunny Sicily. Still struggling to keep face, Lady Louisa was forced to sell much of the contents of the mansion including the priceless collection of books from the family library.
Soon the lavish entertainment, the sumptuous feasting and the glittering balls were all gone and the magic that once was Mountshannon disappeared. Gone too were Lady Louisa’s wealthy friends, leaving her at the mercy of her creditors who quickly foreclosed on her and she was forced to sell the mansion and the estate.
Lady Louisa left Mountshannon in 1887 and went to live in the Isle of Wight at St. Dominic’s Convent where she spent the rest of her life …. The powerful FitzGibbon line that had stretched across one hundred and twenty years at Mountshannon had finally ended.
The next owner of Mountshannon was an Irishman, Thomas Nevins, who had made a large fortune in America and returned to Ireland with his wife and three daughters and purchased the mansion and estate.
For the Nevins, who were a decent and honest Catholic family, their years at Mountshannon were fraught with trouble and ill-luck, so much so that people said the curse that many believed was on the place must surely have touched on these unfortunate people…
…Tom Nevins, like Lord Clare before him, was thrown from his horse while riding through the estate and died a few months after from his injuries. His body was also placed in the Cooling House, as was his wife’s who died some years later the little building had by then become the family burial chamber …
… So at last the tragic Nevins family rest undisturbed and entombed in what was once the cold storage house for Mountshannon Mansion.
Dermot O’Hannigan was the last owner of Mountshannon and in 1921, during the Troubles, in a spectacular and devastating fire, the flames of which could be seen, it is said, from many parts of Limerick city and county, the beautiful mansion was burned to the ground.
The estate was eventually taken over by the Irish Land Commission and divided up into several farm holdings.
Little remains of Mountshannon Mansion today but the ivy-clad shell of the great house, its four columns at the entrance still stand defiantly against the elements and even time itself, like some battle-scarred warriors still guarding the faded remnants of a grandeur that is no more.
The house was re-modeled in a neo-classical style after 1813 to the designs of Lewis Wyatt. The front 7-bay entrance was adorned by four ionic columns, the rear had a large conservatory. Destroyed by fire in 1920. The rooms were large and spacious, though boasted little internal ornament; a fine hall and library; French gilt furniture in the drawing-room and morning-room.
Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached seven-bay two-storey over basement country house, built c. 1790, having pedimented Ionic portico to front (north) elevation and multiple-bay two-storey extension to east. Remodelled c. 1813. Now in a ruin. Limestone eaves course and rendered chimneystacks. Lined-and-ruled rendered walls. Ashlar limestone portico comprising Ionic columns and Doric pilasters supporting entablature and pediment with dentil motifs. Square-headed openings with limestone sills, some having remains of six-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows. Round-headed door openings to ground floor with render surrounds. Limestone thresholds to entrances. Remains of rubble stone walled garden to east.
Appraisal
Built by the FitzGibbon family in the late eighteenth century, Mount Shannon was subsequently enlarged c. 1813 to the design of Lewis Wyatt for John FitzGibbon, first Earl of Clare and Lord Chancellor of Ireland. The remains of the imposing two-storey Ionic portico, which dates from this period of construction, constitutes a notable example of the neo-classical style. It has also been suggested that James Pain may have carried out this work. High quality design and execution are apparent in the execution of the portico, which forms the focal point of the structure. The house, however, was burnt down in 1921. The site retains demesne related structures such as the walled garden, gate lodges and the icehouse which later became a mausoleum, all of which provide historical and social context to the composition.
Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Shannon, County Limerick, courtesy National Inventory.
Given the notoriety of its late 18th century resident, the fate of Mount Shannon, County Limerick seems inevitable. One of the country’s more striking ruins, the house formerly stood at the centre of a 900-acre demesne famous for its trees and gardens: in his 1822 Encyclopedia of Gardening the Scottish botanist and landscape designer John Claudius Loudon specifically cited Mount Shannon as an example of improvements in Ireland, and proposed these had been carried out under the direction of the first Earl of Clare, of whom more anon. Five years later Fitzgerald and McGregor in their study of the history and topography of Limerick city and county likewise refer to Mount Shannon: ‘the plantations are laid out with fine taste, and the gardens are extensive and well arranged.’ Aside from a handful of surviving specimen trees, no evidence of the demesne’s former glories now remains, and much of the land is given over to suburban housing, making it difficult to discern what the grounds must have looked like even a century ago. On the other hand it is still possible to gain a sense of the main house’s former appearance. In 1827 Fitzgerald and McGregor described it as being ‘one of the most superb mansions in the South of Ireland’ and although a hollow shell for over ninety years it clings onto a residue of grandeur.
The original Mount Shannon was built c.1750 by the euphoniously-named Silver Oliver whose family’s main estate was elsewhere in the county at Clonodfoy, later Castle Oliver. Oliver appears to have sold the property to a member of the White family but around 1765 it came into the possession of John Fitzgibbon, supposedly a descendant of the mediaeval White Knights, who had been raised a Roman Catholic but converted to Anglicanism so that he could become a lawyer (Penal Laws then barring this profession to everyone not a member of the established church). Highly successful, he amassed a considerable fortune which when he died in 1780 was passed on to his son, also called John and later first Earl of Clare. It would appear from various references that Lord Clare did much to improve and aggrandise Mount Shannon, not just its demesne but also the house. However the latter’s most striking feature was added by his eldest son the second earl in 1813. The immense Ionic portico with Doric pilasters behind was designed by Lewis Wyatt (a member of the prolific English family of architects and a nephew of James Wyatt), and occupies the three centre bays of the seven-bay north entrance front. Behind three round-headed doors gave access to the hall with the drawing room and other main reception rooms behind. The interiors, as a handful of 19th century photographs show, were chillingly neo-classical with scarcely any ornament. The same was true of the exterior which, as can be seen is constructed of brick with cut limestone dressings. The severity of the south, garden facade was relieved by a very large curved conservatory. To the immediate east of the two-storey over sunken basement house is a long, lower extension which would have been used for services and was originally concealed by a curved screen wall that joined the still-extant wall of the old walled garden.
Many stories are told of John ‘Black Jack’ Fitzgibbon, first Earl of Clare, some of them apocryphal, few of them kind. After studying at Trinity College, Dublin and Christchurch, Oxford he became a lawyer like his father before him. He was first elected to the Irish House of Commons in 1778 and five years later was appointed Attorney General. Appointed Lord Chancellor for Ireland in 1789, he was also received his first peerage, as Baron FitzGibbon, of Lower Connello; he was subsequently advanced to a Viscountcy in 1793 and finally received his earldom in 1795. Four years later he was granted an English peerage (entitling him to a seat in the House of Lords at Westminster), becoming Baron FitzGibbon, of Sidbury in the County of Devon. Unquestionably brilliant, Fitzgibbon was also without doubt bigoted. It has often been noted that he was a hardline Protestant and a member of the Protestant Ascendancy who avidly promoted whatever measures he believed would best preserve that group’s political domination in Ireland. He supported harsh measures against members of the 1798 Rebellion and was openly hostile to Roman Catholicism despite or perhaps because of his father had originally been a member of this faith. When it came to the Act of Union in 1800, of which he was firmly in favour, there was widespread understanding that this would be accompanied by concessions made to Roman Catholics with the Penal Laws being ameliorated. FitzGibbon persuaded George III that any such liberalisation of the status quo would be a violation of the king’s Coronation Oath and thus ensured pro-Emancipation measures were not included in the Union legislation. In so doing he delayed Catholic Emancipation by three decades and encouraged the spread of sectarianism. It is said that FitzGibbon once declared he would make the Irish as ‘tame as a dead cat.’ As a result, there are stories of dead cats being thrown into his coach, and of more of the same being flung into his grave when he died in January 1802 following a fall from his horse at Mount Shannon the previous month.
At the time of the Act of Union, Lord Clare arranged for a handsome pension by way of compensation for the loss of his office as Lord Chancellor which was then abolished; this was to be paid both to him and his immediate heir. Thus the second earl, who died in 1851, enjoyed a handsome income not just from his estates which ran to more than 13,000 acres in Counties Limerick and Tipperary but from the munificence of the British Treasury. A close friend of Lord Byron, with whom he was at school, the second earl later became Governor first of Bombay and later of Bengal; he enhanced Mount Shannon by both the addition of the portico and other improvements, but by adding treasures from India and paintings acquired on his travels around Europe. Since he had no children, his property passed to a younger brother, who duly became third earl. He was to suffer a number of disadvantages, among them the absence of the pension enjoyed by his predecessors, a much depleted income in the aftermath of the Great Famine, and the death of his only son during the Charge of the Light Brigage at the Battle of Balaclava in October 1854: Limerick’s Wellesley Bridge used to feature a handsome statue to the youthful Viscount FitzGibbon until it was blown up by the IRA in 1930. On the death of the third earl in 1864 the title became extinct. His estate was left to the two younger of his three daughters (the eldest, who had caused a scandal by abandoning her own spouse and children to run off with the elderly husband of a half-sister, appears to have been disinherited). While the middle sister took possession of the FitzGibbon silver and, it seems, the greater part of the liquidity attached to the estate, the youngest Lady Louisa FitzGibbon assumed responsibility for Mount Shannon.
Lady Louisa was as dogged by bad luck as her father. Her eldest son died at the age of twenty, followed by her first husband and then the Italian Marchese she married in expectation of his money turned out to be as penniless as herself. With the advent of the Land Wars rents ceased to be paid, portions of the estate had to be sold, what remained was mortgaged, and money borrowed at high interest rates. All to no avail: Lady Louisa’s creditors demanded satisfaction, following litigation a receiver was appointed, and in the course of a sale lasting several days during June 1888 Mount Shannon was stripped of its contents including a very valuable library. Here is a small quote from the fascinating catalogue compiled by Limerick auctioneer John Bernal: ‘The Family Paintings are Chef Douvres [sic], by the first artist of the period, when they were taken, some of the Paintings, see page 42, were placed in the house about 1790, and will afford the connoisseur and speculator a good chance of getting a valuable Old Master on good terms. There are also some replicas from the Dresden gallery.’ The first such melancholy event of its kind in Ireland, a prelude to many more to follow over the coming decades, the Mount Shannon excited huge interest, with special trains and catering arrangements being laid on. Lady Louisa FitzGibbon spent the remainder of her days in a Dominican convent on the Isle of Wight, an establishment founded by the Roman Catholic convert wife of her uncle, the second Lord Clare; this was something of an irony given the first earl’s virulent hatred of all Catholics. Five years after the sale, Thomas Nevins, who had been born in Mayo but made a fortune in the United States as a tram and railway contractor, bought Mount Shannon where he died in 1902, just like the first earl following a bad fall from a horse. His widow only survived until 1907 after which the place passed through various hands before what remained of the estate was bought in 1915 by David O’Hannigan of County Cork for £1,000. He did not have long to enjoy Mount Shannon since it was burned down in June 1920 during the War of Independence, the light of the flames apparently seen in Limerick city. The house remains a shell. To walk through it today is to have a sense what it must have been like visiting a site such as the Baths of Caracalla in the aftermath of Imperial Rome’s collapse, especially as this immense structure is now surrounded by others domestic buildings of infinitely smaller dimensions and aspirations. Even in its present broken-down state Mount Shannon continues dominate the area and to exude an air of greater distinction than any of its neighbours.
Not all anniversaries are necessarily cause for celebration. Today marks the centenary of the burning of Mount Shannon, County Limerick, one among the first wave of Irish country houses to be burnt during the War of Independence, followed by many more over the course of the Civil War. Dating from the mid-18th century, Mount Shannon was originally built for the Oliver family but by 1765 it had been acquired by John FitzGibbon, who had converted from Roman Catholicism to the Established Church in order to practice law. This move ultimately also converted him into a wealthy man, so understandably the same profession was also followed by his son, another John FitzGibbon, who became known as ‘Black Jack’ for his hostility to the faith of his forebears and his advocacy of the 1800 Act of Union. Prior to that event, he served as last Lord Chancellor of Ireland and was rewarded with a peerage, becoming Earl of Clare in 1795. While he improved Mount Shannon and the surrounding demesne, it was his son the second earl who did most work on the place, not least by enhancing the façade with the addition of its great Ionic portico, designed by architect Lewis William Wyatt. Thanks to a pension secured by his father, he was also able to fill the interior with furniture and works of art collected during his travels in Europe, and from time spent in India as Governor of Mumbai (then called Bombay). Having no children, when he died in 1851 both title and estate passed to a younger brother.
The third Earl of Clare did not benefit from a government pension such as that enjoyed by his late brother, nor did he lead as charmed a life; in 1854 his son and heir, 25-year old Viscount FitzGibbon, was reported missing, presumed dead, after leading his troop of Royal Irish Huzzars at the Charge of the Light Brigade during the Crimean War. His body was never recovered. So, when the third earl in turn died a decade later, Mount Shannon passed to the youngest of his three daughters, Lady Louisa FitzGibbon who likewise suffered various misfortunes: her first husband died, as did her son, and then her second husband – a Sicilian marchese – proved to be as just as impoverished as was she. Already in debt, the onset of the Land Wars finished off her prospects and in 1888 Lady Louisa’s creditors forced a sale of Mount Shannon and its contents. The house had two more owners before its eventual destruction, the first being Thomas Nevins, who had been born in Mayo but made a fortune in the United States as a tram and railway contractor. He lived at Mount Shannon for less than a decade because in 1902, exactly a century after the first Earl of Shannon had died following a fall from a horse, Mr Nevins suffered the same fate. His wife followed him a few years later, and Mount Shannon was back on the market. Most of the land was divided up between local farmers and in 1915 the house and immediate surroundings were bought for £1,000 by one David O’Hannigan, who already owned a fine property some thirty miles to the south, Kilbolane House, County Cork (since demolished). However, he was unable to enjoy his new home for very long because on the night of June 14th 1920 Mount Shannon was set on fire by a local band of the IRA, leaving the building completely gutted; it is believed flames from the blazing site could be seen in Limerick city more than five miles away. What remains of the house has stood a ruin ever since. Over the next three years, there will be many more such centenaries to recall.
Lisheen House (or Seafield House), Co Sligo – ruin
Seafield House, County Sligo, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 185. “(Phibbs/LGI1912) In 1798, William Phibbs built Seafield, overlooking Ballysadare Bay, as a dower house for his son, Owen. It was Gothic, but the stables and cowsheds were joined to it in the Palladian manner. Owen Phibbs, who lived mainly in Dublin, used Seafield only as a summer retreat; but his son, William, came to live permanently at Seafield in 1842, and in that year began building a much larger house about 200 yards away from the old one, which was allowed to fall into ruin. The architect of the new house was the Sligo born John Benson, who was afterwards knighted for designing the building for the Dublin Exhibition of 1853. It was Classical, square, of two storeys, with a roof carried on a cornice. Entrance front of seven bays; framing bands at the corners of the front, on either side fo the centre bay and above the first floor windows; continuous entablatures below the windows in each storey. Entrance door recessed behind a Grecian temple or tomb doorway with two Ionic columns. Entablatures on console brackets over ground floor windows. Adjoining front of five bays, the centre three bays behing recessed. Framing bands and entablatures under the windows as in the entrance front; triangular pediments on console brackets over the two outer ground floor windows. Cast-iron verandah filling the recess between the end bays. Large hall, ballroom and library. Long gallery on first floor, lit by skylights, which subsequently became known as the Museum, having been filled with objects ranging from Egyptian mummies to Syrian swords and daggers collected by Owen Phibbs, son of the builder of the house, an archaeologist of note. The house was infested by a particularly malicious poltergeist, which gave it such a bad reputation that Owen Phibbs, on succeeding to it in 1904, changed its name from Seafield to Lisheen. Later in the present century, in an attempt to get rid of the poltergeist, the familyhanded over the house to a party of Jesuits for some weeks, who celebrated mass in it each day during their stay. D.W. Philbbs sold the house 1940, and it was immediately afterwards demolished.”
Seafield House, County Sligo, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Architect: George Papworth Also known as Lisheen, and now almost completely ruined. Reputed to be haunted, the house was abandoned in the 1920s after repeated attempts to rid the house of its presence failed.
In Blake, Tarquin. Abandoned Mansions of Ireland. Collins Press, Cork, 2010.
THE PHIBBSES WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY SLIGO, WITH 10,507 ACRES
The earliest record of this family is found in a list of names of subscribers to a loan raised in 1589, during the reign of ELIZABETH I, to defray expenses incurred during the arming of the country at the time of the threatened Spanish Armada.
The name there appears as PHILLIPS, as it also does in the official list of High Sheriffs for County Sligo, as late as 1716, where Matthew Phibbs, of Templevaney, is styled Matthew Phillips.
Of this family two brothers came over to Ireland as soldiers about 1590.
From records now existing in Trinity College, Dublin, they are found on half-pay, in 1616 and 1619, under the name of PHIPPS, a name that some of the younger branches of the family resumed about 1765.
Of these two, William settled in County Cork, in the south-west of which county the name existed as ffibbs.
The elder of the two,
RICHARD PHIPPS, who served under Sir Tobias Caulfeild, and was pensioned as a maimed soldier in 1619, settled at Kilmainham, Dublin, where he died in 1629, and was buried at St James’s Church.
He had issue,
RICHARD, of whom presently; John, living in County Sligo, 1663; Edward; Hester; Jane; Sarah; Rebecca.
The eldest son,
RICHARD PHIBBS or FFIBS, of Coote’s Horse, who was granted land in County Sligo, 1659, and served in Captain Francis King’s troop of horse in Lord Collooney’s regiment.
He died in 1670, and was interred in St John’s Church, Dublin, having had issue,
MATTHEW, of Templevaney; William, of Grange.
The elder son,
MATTHEW PHIBBS, of Templevaney, and afterwards of Rockbrook, County Sligo, High Sheriff in 1716, had issue, four sons and two daughters,
WILLIAM, of Rathbrook and Rathmullen; Richard; Robert; Matthew; Anne; Margaret.
Mr Phibbs died in 1738, and was succeeded by his eldest son,
WILLIAM PHIPPS or PHIBBS (1696-1775), of Rockbrook and Rathmullen, married, in 1717, Mary, only daughter of John Harloe, of Rathmullen, by whom he had twenty-one children, including
WILLIAM PHIBBS (1738-1801), of Hollybrook, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1781, wedded, in 1768, Jane, daughter of Owen Lloyd, of Rockville, County Roscommon, by whom he had ten children, of whom
William, 1771-2; William, 1773-97; OWEN, of whom presently; Susan; Mary.
Mr Phibbs was succeeded by his only surviving son,
OWEN PHIBBS (1776-1829), of Merrion Square, Dublin, High Sheriff, 1804, who espoused, in 1798, Anne, daughter of Thomas Ormsby, of Ballimamore, County Mayo, and had issue,
WILLIAM, of Seafield; Ormsby; Owen; Elizabeth; Jane; Maria.
Mr Phibbs was succeeded by his eldest son,
WILLIAM PHIBBS (1803-81), of Seafield, County Sligo, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1833, 11th Light Dragoons, who married, in 1840, Catherine, daughter of George Meares Maunsell, of Ballywilliam, County Limerick, and had issue,
OWEN, his heir; George; William; Catherine; Anne; Edythe Frances.
Mr Phibbs was succeeded by his eldest son,
OWEN PHIBBS JP DL (1842-1914), of Lisheen (name changed in 1904), High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1884, Lieutenant, 6th Dragoon Guards, who wedded, in 1866, Susan, daughter of William Talbot-Crosbie, of Ardfert Abbey, County Kerry, and had issue,
BASIL, his heir; William Talbot; Owen; Darnley.
Mr Phibbs was succeeded by his eldest son,
BASIL PHIBBS, (1867-1938), of Corradoo, Boyle, and Lisheen, High Sheriff of County Sligo, 1905, who married, in 1899, Rebekah Wilbraham, youngest daughter of Herbert Wilbraham Taylor, of Hadley Bourne, Hertfordshire, and had issue,
GEOFFREY BASIL; Denis William; Richard Owen Neil; Catherine Meave.
Mr Phibbs was succeeded by his eldest son,
GEOFFREY BASIL PHIBBS (1900-56), of Lisheen,
Born in Norfolk; Irish Guards; worked variously as demonstrator in College of Science; librarian; factory-worker in London and school-teacher in Cairo;worked with Nancy Nicholson at the Poulk (Hogarth) Press.
Mr Phibbs married Norah McGuinness in London.
He subsequently changed his name to TAYLOR, following his father’s refusal to “allow his wife over the threshold”.
He lived in a Georgian house in Tallaght, County Dublin.
Denis William Phibbs inherited the house and some of the lands, which he sold to Isaac Beckett of Ballina for £1,400 ~ less than one third of the original construction price.
Beckett later sold the house to a builder, John Sisk.
In 1944, the Becketts sold the lands they owned to George Lindsay.
Other lands on the Phibbs estate were bought by the Lindsay and McDermott families.
LISHEEN HOUSE (formerly Seafield), near Ballysadare, County Sligo, although now in a ruinous state, casts an impressive presence on the landscape.
Many clues as to its original state survive, including some fine stonework to the facades, chimneys, and openings.
This was clearly a house rich in history and skilfully designed.
The Sligo architect John Benson, who designed the house, was knighted for designing the building at the Dublin Exhibition of 1853.
Lisheen is a two-storey rendered house, built ca 1842, now ruinous.
Symmetrical main elevations, extensive vegetation growth internally and externally; roof collapsed; remains of chimney-stacks survive; section of moulded eaves cornice survives.
Painted smooth-rendered walling, horizontal banding between floors, plain pilasters to corners, moulded dado, ashlar limestone plinth.
Square-headed full-height window openings, moulded architraves, entablatures supported on console brackets, all evidence of timber windows missing.
No evidence of entrance doors survive; all internal finishes and features removed; remote location in fields.
Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
The 2025 Revenue list still hasn’t been published so today I am writing about Lisdonagh in County Galway. It is another tourist accommodation property that is only available as a whole house rental, so I don’t think I will be able to visit. There are also cottages available for accommodation – perhaps Stephen and I can stay there sometime!
The website tells us:
“When looking for an authentic Irish country house to hire, the beautiful 18th century early Georgian Heritage home is the perfect choice. Lisdonagh House is large enough to accommodate families, friends and groups for private gatherings. This private manor house is available for exclusive hire when planning your next vacation or special event. Enchantingly elegant, Lisdonagh Manor House in Galway has been lovingly restored and boasts original features as well as an extensive antiques collection. Peacefully set in secluded woodland surrounded by green fields and magnificent private lake, this luxury rental in Galway is full of traditional character and charm. The tasteful decor pays homage to the history of Lisdonagh Manor with rich and warm colours in each room. The private estate in Galway is perfect for family holidays, celebrations and Board of Director strategy meetings. Lisdonagh is an excellent base for touring Galway, Mayo and the Wild Atlantic Way.“
Lisdonagh Estate is set in its own mature woodland with private lake and guests may avail of complimentary horse riding, fishing in our lake and rambling walks through our 200 acres of Irish countryside.
Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
I would love to be able to stay sometime!
The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage tells us it was built around 1760; Mark Bence-Jones estimated it to be from 1790s. [1] [2] A third date is suggested on the Visit Galway website which tells us that Lisdonagh House is an early Georgian country manor built around the 1720s by the Reddingtons for the St. George family who were prominent landlords in Galway. [3]
The Landed Estates website tells us:
“For fifty years in the middle of the 19th century a branch of the O’Flaherty family leased an estate at Lisdonagh, parish of Donaghpatrick, barony of Clare, county Galway, from the St. George family of Headford. Bernard O’Flaherty of Lisdonagh was agent to Peter Lynch of Ballycurran in the 1830s…In the 1870s Martin O’Flaherty of Lisdonagh owned 2,128 acres in county Galway. He married Mary O’Gorman and their daughter Eva, a founder member of Scoil Acla on Achill Island, was born in 1874. He sold his estate to Peter O’Mahony in the late 19th century and Lisdonagh passed to Henry Palmer of Galway, who married O’Mahony’s daughter. Their daughter Valda Palmer lived at Lisdonagh until the 1990s. In 1885 Martin Francis O’Flaherty was acting as a trustee for the estate of Edward Michael Davies, a bankrupt. Part of this estate at Moneyteigue, barony of Dunkellin, was offered for sale in the Landed Estates court in April 1885.” [4]
The Women’s Museum of Ireland tells us that Eva O’Flaherty studied millinery in Paris at the end of the 19th century, where she knew Countess Markievicz, and had a millinery emporium on Sloane Street, London, in 1913. Prior to World War I Eva was a well known beauty in the Café Royal, mixing with an eclectic intellectual artistic milieu, many of whom visited her in later years in Achill. Eva corresponded with Kathleen Clarke and other notable Republican women such as Dr Kathleen Lynn and Máire Comerford all her life. She moved to Achill in 1910, opening St Colman’s Knitting Industries in Dooagh which would proved much needed employment for local women for almost fifty years and co-founding Scoil Acla with poet, journalist and, later, politician, Darrell Figgis, Colm O’Loughlainn and Anita McMahon. [5]
“After her hectic experiences in Dublin, Eva settled back into life in Achill, where artist Paul Henry became a close friend and where writer Graham Green played cards regularly in her home. Such was Eva O’Flaherty’s contribution to the fledgling Irish state that President Eamon De Valera sent Senator Mark Killilea as his government representative to give the oration at her funeral in Donaghpatrick graveyard in April 1963. Her coffin was draped with a tricolour and she received military honours.” [5]
Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
The house is two storeys over basement. It has five bays, with a central curved bow. The entrance doorway is in the bow, and has an arched fanlight over the door. The doorcase has limestone block-and-start surround, with a keystone in the form of a massive scroll bracket, and a further cornice above and limestone bracket above that in the form of a heraldic bird’s head, with the beak forming a ring for hanging a lantern. [see 1] The door is approached by flight of five limestone steps with wrought-iron railings.
Mark Bence-Jones tells us thaton one side of the house is a detached pyramidally-roofed Palladian pavilion with a Venetian window on one face and a niche on the other. Bence-Jones adds that Dr. Craig is doubtful whether a balancing pavilion was ever built.
The house has commanding views over Lough Hackett, a private Lake which forms part of the Estate, and of Knochma hill.
Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from website.Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
The rear elevation is of three bays and three storeys, with a centre flat-roofed canted bay. This rear bay contains a round headed window with cobweb fanlight which lights the stairs.
Mark Bence-Jones writes in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses that the impressive front hall has walls painted with an Ionic order and figures in grisaille by J. Ryan. [2] The Lisdonagh website tells us that the murals depict the four virtues of valour, chastity, beauty and justice.
Lisdonagh House, photograph from website.
Thestaircase is behind this hall, partly in three sided projection.
The main rooms are beautifully furnished and look invitingly comfortable. The ground floor has a spacious drawing room with open fire, separate Georgian dining room, small study or reading room and fully equipped kitchen. Dining can be self catered or provided by your hosts on request. A sweeping original oak staircase leads to the first floor and 5 en-suite bedrooms with lake or garden views. There are an additional 4 en-suite bedrooms on the lower ground floor as well as Rafferty’s Room which is a stone clad snug with mini bar style facilities.
Drawing room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.Drawing room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.Lisdonagh House library, photograph from Lisdonagh website.Dining room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.Dining room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Bar,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Kitchen, Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
The bedrooms look equally enticing.
The Gregory Room: Located in what was originally the kitchens of the Manor, this spacious room features two single beds, marble bathroom and antique period furniture treasures. The two front facing windows are deep set with planted rockery outside.Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Merriman room with four poster bed, and a bathroom with one of the first ever bathtubs in Ireland! Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Sommerville Room: Also on the lower ground floor (opposite the Merriman Room) with double bed and beautiful black and white tiled bathroom. Jacuzzi bath with hand held shower, the Sommerville room has courtyard garden view.Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Synge Room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Maud Gonne room,with two windows with garden and courtyard views, Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.Located centrally over the main entrance, The Carolan Room, Lisdonagh House, photograph from website.The Yeats Room,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.With views of Lough Hackett, The JoyceBedroom,Lisdonagh House, County Galway, photograph from Lisdonagh website.The Flaherty Room, located on the lower ground floor, with whitewashed walls and antique brass double bed with mother of pearl headboard. The shuttered window gives a rear view of the courtyard garden area, photograph from Lisdonagh website.
The National Inventory tells us that there is a detached eight-bay two-storey stable block, built c.1760, in yard ancillary to Lisdonagh House. At either end are plain gate piers with wrought-iron gates. The yard has a carriage arch and fountain.
Coach House atLisdonagh House, photograph from website.Previously the estate’s stables, the two storey, 3 bedroom Coach House is beautifully renovated and has both period features and modern comforts. It comprises a large contemporary kitchen and breakfast room, under floor heating, a spacious sitting room complete with stove and TV including both Irish and UK channels as well as a smaller study or games room. Upstairs there are three en-suite double bedrooms.
It has two cottages for accommodation also.
Lughnasa Villa at Lisdonagh House, photograph from website: Two storeys with under floor heating on the ground floor as well as a compact galley style kitchen and beautiful antique furnishings. Ideal for friends and families, Lughnasa has two double bedrooms (king size & queen size beds) and two bathrooms.
As well as Lughasa Villa there is Inisfree Villa. On the ground floor there is a large sitting room with plush period furnishings and wood burning stove. A small but fully fitted galley kitchen is adjacent to the sitting room. Upstairs there are two bedrooms, one very spacious double bedroom and a twin bedroom – both en-suite.
There is a two-bay single-storey gate lodge of c.1830 on the opposite side of the road to the entrance gates, with lime-rendered walls and wide windows. The entrance is through the porch in the south return wall.
Gate Lodge atLisdonagh House, photograph from website.This self-catering cottage is located at the entrance to Lisdonagh Manor Estate. Set entirely over the ground floor, this holiday rental in Galway can sleep four people in two bedrooms with shared bathroom. The Gate Lodge also has a kitchen with dining area and a sitting room. Oil fired central heating with multi-fuel stove.
[2] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 35. “(Raymond/LG1863)/ Bateman/LGI1912) A two storey seven bay C18 house with a cut-stone front. Camber-headed windows with triple keystones; cornice. In 1837, the residence of S.S. Raymond.”
Detached seven-bay two-storey house, built c. 1790, now disused and derelict. Renovated, c. 1860, with single-bay single-storey gabled projecting porch added. Extended to north-east, c. 1930, comprising five-bay single-storey lean-to return with corrugated-iron roof. Pitched and hipped slate roof with clay ridge tiles and having chimneystacks rising from rear eaves. Limestone ashlar façade with eaves cornice. Roughcast rendered rubble stone side walls with roughcast. Rubble stone base to north gable. Remains of mid-nineteenth century timber two-over-two panes sliding sash windows with limestone moulded sills, lintels and triple-keystones. No windows to rear wall. Projecting gabled porch with limestone stringcourse, c. 1860. Retaining interior features. Rubble walled enclosure to south-east. Farmyard buildings remodelled or rebuilt.
Bedford House, Listowel, Co Kerry courtesy National Inventory.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 230. “(Nugent, Westmeath, E/PB) A late-Georgian block of ca 1797 by William Leeson, built for Anthony Nugent, 4th Lord Riverston in the Jacobite Peerage, close to the old castle of this branch of the Nugents…The grandson of the builder of the house succeeded as 9th Earl of Westmeath when the senior branch of the family became extinct 1871. 12th Earl sold Pallas ca 1934, subsequently demolished.”
Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.
Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 13. “(Stevenson/IFR) A two storey five bay house built ca. 1796 by James Stevenson, of Knockan, Co Derry, as a residence for his elder son, William. High pitched roof, partly gable-ended, partly hipped.”