Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 285. “(Walsh/IFR) A mid-C19 Italianate house of two storeys over rusticated and vermiculated basement. Five bay front, with broken pediment above central Wyatt window and portico with Ionic columsn and Doric corner piers. Entablatures on console brackets over some windows. Windows with straight-arched heads in upper storey; rectangular windows below and camber-headed windows in basement. Eaved roof on bracket cornice.”
Williamstown, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Williamstown, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay two-storey over basement house, built 1856-60. L-plan, single-bay three-storey over basement return to north, broken pedimented breakfront over projecting portico to south, lean-to single-storey return to north-east. Hipped slate roofs, clay ridge tiles, smooth rendered ruled-and-lined corbelled chimneystacks, stone caps and clay pots; projecting eaves on chequer-set brackets, painted timber soffit supporting moulded cast-iron gutters, circular cast-iron downpipes. Smooth rendered ruled-and-lined walling to ground and first floor, smooth rendered channelled basement, ashlar limestone plinth and stringcourse between ground and first floors, ashlar limestone rock-faced quoins to basement, channelled quoins ground floor, vertical banded quoins to first floor; random rubble stone walling to basement, north; family crest to tympanum of pediment, south. Segmental-headed windows openings to basement, vermiculated block-and-start rendered surrounds, rock-faced limestone keystones, limestone sills, multiple-pane metal casement windows; square-headed openings to ground floor, limestone sills over moulded panel, smooth rendered surround console brackets to limestone cornice, painted timber one-over-ones sliding sash windows; basket-arched openings to first floor, limestone sills over recessed panels, roll-moulded smooth rendered surrounds, painted timber two-over-two sliding sash windows; Wyatt window to breakfront, tooled limestone surround comprising panelled pilaster, console brackets, frieze and cornice, painted timber sliding sash windows; simple Wyatt windows to north elevation central return, tooled limestone mullions and surround, painted timber fixed windows with margin-lights. Tooled limestone entrance portico to south comprising paired Ionic columns flanked by Doric piers supporting frieze and dentil cornice, rounded carved detailing to roof of portico; round-headed door opening, moulded surround, console keystone, flanking Doric pilasters, round-headed sidelights in turn with flanking pilasters, egg-and-dart and dentil cornice; timber double doors with four decorative raised-and-fielded panels, etched glass fanlight; flight of stone steps to entrance flanked by tooled limestone vermiculated blocks. Enclosed yard to north bounded by random rubble stone wall containing ranges of brick and stone outbuildings. Walled garden to north-east, remains of glass house and gardener’s house to north-east corner. Three-bay single-storey gate lodge to south-west, central canted entrance bay, hipped roof (slates missing) painted timber bargeboards, smooth rendered ruled-and-lined walling. Elaborate wrought-iron gates flanked by squared smooth rendered piers, pyramidal caps and iron railings.
Appraisal
Designed by William Caldbeck this is a fine example of the Italianate architecture, popular in the mid-nineteenth century. Fine proportions and symmetry give this building elegance and the beautifully executed detailing around window and doors give artistic significance to the building. The striking limestone portico and elegant pedimented breakfront are features worthy of particular note. The existence of the outbuildings, walled garden, gardener’s house and gate lodge are also significant as they form the original context of Williamstown House which was once important to the local population, provided employment to the community.
Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 275. “(Balfour/LGI1912; Crichton, Erne, e/PB) Francis Johnston’s Classical masterpiece, just as Charleville Forest is his masterpiece in Gothic. A house “of singular and impressive austerity” in the words of Christopher Hussey [of Country Life, I believe – Jen]. Designed 1794 for Blayney Balfour. Of two storeys over a basement, with three seven bay fronts that are identical except that the entrance front has a single storey Grecian Doric portico with coupled columns; and devoid of all ornament except for a string-course and a bold cornice; deriving their beauty from perfect proportions. Parapeted roof. Entrance hall with coffered ceiling and arched recesses in the manner of Soane. Superb central rotunda, lit by glazed dome, with a wonderfully light and graceful staircase curving up inside it. Around the upper storey of his rotunda are apses, niches and arched recesses, producing an “endlessly curving movement” and an infinite variety of spatial effects; Mrs Townley Balfour, the widow of the grandson of the builder, said, after living in the house for more than thirty years, that it gave her pleasure every time she passed up and down the staircase. Large, simple rooms arranged around the central rotunda; library with lightly coffered ceiling en suite with drawing room hung with jade-green Chinese wallpaper. Kitchen wing extending along one side of yard at basement level, with windows set in deep arches and Grecian Doric columns supporting plain and massive entablatures under relieving arches. Inherited, after the death of Mrs Townley Balfour 1954, by Mr David Crichton, who sold it to Trinity College Dublin 1956.”
Portrait of Mary (d. 1754), daughter of Hamilton Townley, married Blayney Townley (Balfour) (1705-1788) of Townley Hall, ENGLISH SCHOOL (MID 18TH CENTURY) courtesy Adam’s 11 Oct 2011.She was previously the wife of William Barton Tenison.Florence Townley-Balfour née Cole (1779-1862) daughter of William Willoughby Cole 1st Earl of Enniskillen, she married Blayney Townley-Balfour (1769-1856). Painting by Richard Rothwell, courtesy of National Trust Florence Court.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall’ by GARRET MORPHY (c. 1655 – 1715) courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall, attributed to Charles Jervas, courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.
The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Sim Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569338 The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569336 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 178 View along the drive up to the entrance front of Townley Hall through parkland. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Not Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569337
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Not Used CL 23/07/1948 Image Number: 568918
Image Number: 568920
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 535673 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 1978
Image Number: 568917
The drawing room at Townley Hall, hung with a jade green chinese paper. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510404 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 A section of the chinese wallpaper hung in the drawing room at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510405 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 The library at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568919 An interior at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568916The attic dormitory for bachelors at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 537034 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228
featured in Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life. Sean O’Reilly. Aurum Press Ltd, London, 1998.
p. 119. “The progress into the curvilinear staircase hall from the rectilinear entrance hall is indeed one of the great moments of Irish classical architecture…urged from Hussey a plaudit with which many would agree: ‘I would dare say there is nothing lovelier than this rotunda in the Georgian architecture in the British Isles.’ The contrast of sweeping curve and straight line inside the house is anticipated outside, but inversely, and only in the most subtle fashion. Here the rigid formality of the stone box of Townley is offset against rolling landscape, pitted with bulbous clumps of trees modulating the already undulating horizon.”
p. 120 [The first floor landing is integrated with lobbies behind arches, feeding to the rooms, a variation of the Irish top-lit circulation lobby.]
“The landscape itself is not untypical of the plains of northern Leinster’s interior, the region in which the Townley estate sits. Located near the banks of the River Boyne in Co Louth, it came to Blaney Townley-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1788.
It was in the years before his marriage in 1797 to Lady Florence Cole, daughter of the 1st Earl of Enniskillen, that the young gentleman planned and commenced a building that would come to represent a whole new phase in the history of Irish architecture. His Townley Hall, designed and built in the 1790s, could stand proudly beside the greatest house then being built in the country, Castlecoole, Co Fermanagh, situated only a county westwrard. Furthermore, being designed by a young Irish architect of obvious talent, Francis Johnston, the hew house instigated an enthusiasm for the work of native architects that would carry into the following century.
Hussey wrote of the house’s ‘remarkable… essentially Irish classicism – as contrasted with that of the alien architects’ so often employed in Ireland. Throughout the building, austerity and structural rationalism combine to produce a style imbued with contemporary Grecian taste, but evocative too of the mood of early Christian builders in Ireland, for whom architecture was the simple expression of structural logic.
In the staircase hall itself may be found the simple expression – however difficult the execution – of the fundamental structure of the cantilevered stone staircase. One of the great developments in Irish Georgian architecture, and well represented also in the staircase at Castletown, Co Kildare, this principle consists of stone slabs – the steps – wedged into a supporting wall, without support for their projecting ends. At Townley, Johnston takes full advantage of the slightness such a treatment will aloow to give an especially open effect in the rotunda of the staircase hall. This pure space, measuring roughly ten metres by fourteen, with coffered ceiling and panelled walls, is twisted through by the sweeping visual corkscrew of the staircase, showing how good architecture can become great.
p. 123. Assimilated into this majestic staircase hall is a distinctively Irish arrangement, the top-lit first floor landing of the type found at Russborough. Hussey published his own schematic drawing in order to explain how the top of the staircase gave access to the first floor rooms through rectangular lobbies extending from the curved landing in the hall proper. However, he did not refer to the pattern as a development from the Irish lobby arrangement, through it might be contrasted easily with the more architectonic – if less imaginative – variant at Castlecoole.
Johnston’s design for Townley Hall also displayed an apparently natural appreciation of progressive country house design. Outside, he eschews unnecessary ornament, and creates a buiding which rises like some classical temple directly from the ground – without the intercession of steps, area or a raised basement – as the best of contemporary taste required. Inside, continuing the mood, a sequence of vast pure spaces regulated by proportion and shallow ornament renders the very flow between rooms into the poetry of the architecture.
Though it is a building of apparent simplicity, in fact Townley Hall is one of ingenious duplicity. Behind its tall cornice hides a pitched roof of sufficient scale to hold an attic lit by dormers, while below its earthen base lies another floor. This, and more, is revealed at the rear, where in addition to the actual four storey elevation is found the discreetly hidden kitchen wing and court. This last, an aspect of the modern convenience that always clouded the primitive aspirations of the most intense neoclassical patrons and architects, is the only part of the exterior to receive arches.
Frances Johnston was a pupil of Thomas Cooley and, after the building of Townley Hall, he soon came to establish himself as Ireland’s finest native-born architect since Edward Lovett Pearce. Yet the commission for Blaney Townley -Balfour was not gained lightly. His patron looked for designs first, in 1792, from the noted Scottish neoclassicist James Playfair. Playfair records in his diaries the completion of his designs of July of that year, the work having been requested at a meeting in Rome the previous April. [p. 124] However, by 1794 Johnston had been decided upon as the new architect, and was soon able to supply a detailed estimate for the proposed house. The degree to which Johnston relied on the designs of the Scottish master is uncertain. What is clear is that a number of features explored by Playfair persist in Johnston’s work, from the use of seven-bay elevation to details in the kitchen court and even the door panelling – this last has a close parallel at Playfair’s own Cairness, Aberdeenshire. The cornices may be best compared to those of Johnston’s master Thomas Cooley at Caledon. Regardless of this, however, the character of the building has been made very much his own.
Johnston’s estimate of £10,473, exclusive of decoration, was substantial, especially considering the lack of elaboration typical of this phase of neoclassicism. Much of the expense was due to a tireless sophistication of detail and the emphasis given to the provision of modern facilities. Townley, exceptional for its day, was equipped with running water, and the surviving drawings include a plan of these services.
It is especially fortunate that a number of original documents and drawings survive, many now held in the Irish Architectural Archive in Dublin. The mason is identified as John Glover of nearby Drogheda, but there is no record of the decorators who supplied the furnishings, and many of these may have been supplied through the architect.
Followign the death of Mrs Townley-Balfour in 1954, widow of the grandson of Blaney Townley-Balfour and resident during the time of Hussey’s visit, it passed to David Crichton, from whom it was purchased by Trinity College Dublin in 1956, to serve as its first school of agriculture. It has more recently been in the possession of a private institution. Unfortunately, little of its original furniture survives and the kitchen wing, beautifully documented by Westley, has been gutted.
[the attic dormitories are carefully detailed – note the curved fans to the corners over the window shutters – marking its original formal use as a barracks for the male visitors.]
Townley Hall is a magnificent Georgian mansion built just over 200 years ago on a hilltop setting. Today it is surrounded by 60 acres of rolling parkland overlooking the Boyne Valley, very close to the site of the famous battle. The location is strikingly beautiful and peaceful.
The House is an architectural jewel. It is renowned for its exquisite interior, wonderful proportions, the quality of the materials and craftsmanship used in its construction and, in particular, its magnificent staircase – of which Country Life magazine once said:
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems.
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems. The poet laureate Sir John Betjeman, in a survey of the work of Francis Johnson wrote:
For information or bookings, contact the following:
Townley Hall It was designed by Irish architect Francis Johnston for the Townley Balfour family and built between 1794 and 1798, regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family.
Added notesfrom Irish Country Houses and Gardens, archives from Country Life, by Sean O’Reilly: Townley Hall, near the banks of River Boyne- a formal stone ‘box’, set off by rolling landscape and clumps of trees. It came to Blaney Townleu-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1780. It was described as “essential Irish Classicism”. There was an open rotunda staircase hall, inside, a sequence of vast, pure spaces- ingenious duplicity. Finally, in 1956, the House was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin, for the first School of Agriculture, but then went to a private institution. (It has attic dormitories). The kitchen was gutted.
Cupids play at the top of a blind niche in the rotunda of Townley Hall, County Louth, one of the loveliest houses in Ireland which has been discussed here on several occasions in the past (mostly notably Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté* on June 10th last year). Today marks the second anniversary of The Irish Aesthete, the first post being made on September 24th 2012. Two years later the site remains busy with at least three postings each week and, I am happy to report, an ever-increasing audience. In 2012 The Irish Aesthete received an average 23 views per day: the site now generates more than 610 views daily. Interest comes from across the world, the majority of visitors understandably resident in English-speaking countries but during the last quarter there have been substantial numbers from Brazil, the Russian Federation, Turkey and Vietnam, among many others. Whoever you are and wherever you live, thank you to all my readers for engaging with this site and for encouraging me to continue writing about Ireland’s architectural heritage, a subject dear to my heart and evidently to yours also. Your comments are always appreciated, although some of those written in more intemperate language may not be published (this site appreciates good manners). Please keep sending me your thoughts and responses, and in addition if you have suggestions for future subjects, I should be delighted to know of these: like all authors, I relish feedback. Thank you once again, and I look forward to retaining your interest over the next twelve months.
Two of the ceilings in Townley Hall, County Louth, that of the drawing room (above) and the entrance hall (below). Dating from the late 1790s Townley has been discussed here before, not least its rotunda stairhall (see Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté, June 10th) but amply repays further visits. The neo-classical masterpiece of Francis Johnston, the house owes as much to the couple responsible for its commissioning – Blayney Townley and Lady Florence Balfour – as to the architect. As these photographs show, the purity of decoration throughout is flawless.
In 1788 nineteen-year old Blayney Townley Balfour inherited the estate of Townley, County Louth from his grandfather. Sensitive, intelligent and affluent, around the time he came of age Balfour consulted with architect Francis Johnston about building a new house at Townley to replace the existing structure: Johnston had not long before completed work for Archbishop Richard Robinson at nearby Rokeby Hall (see Building on a Prelate’s Ambition, February 4th). At that stage the proposed design was not dissimilar from that seen at Rokeby, the idea being to construct a tall pedimented block. The project proceeded no further before 1791 when Balfour departed for France with his mother and sisters. Leaving them behind in Nice, he went on to Italy and spent time exploring the heritage of Florence and Rome, in the latter city meeting the Scottish neo-classical architect James Playfair. Following Balfour’s return to Ireland in early 1793 he received three designs for a new house from Playfair and while some of the ideas these contained (specifically the notion of a sunken courtyard at the rear of the building to accommodate kitchen and other services) were eventually incorporated, none of them was used by Townley Hall’s owner.
Informed by all he had seen on mainland Europe, once back in Ireland Balfour reverted to Francis Johnston. Yet the outcome of this commission seems to owe as much to client as architect. Indeed Balfour and one of his sisters Anne produced their own drawings for the proposed house and came up with its most distinctive feature: the circular central stair hall. Nevertheless the specifics of Townley Hall were designed by Johnston and it is justifiably considered to be his masterpiece. From the exterior, the building could not be more simple and unadorned: an apparently two-storey block (there is also a basement, and an attic level concealed behind the roof parapet) faced in limestone with each side of seven bays (except for the rear) and measuring ninety feet. The entrance is distinguished only by a plain porch with paired and fluted Doric columns and the windows are no more than openings in their respective walls.
The interior of Townley Hall is equally spare, but the occasional decorative flourish is so well applied and the quality of workmanship so flawless that the result is a building of rare refinement. Even so, nothing prepares a first-time visitor for the coup de foudre which lies at the heart of the house: its stair hall. This space owes an obvious debt to Palladio’s Villa Rotonda and to the Pantheon, both that in Rome and that designed in London by James Wyatt in 1772. Indeed Wyatt’s influence on Johnston’s work at Townley Hall is generally accepted, not least because in 1796 Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole whose family lived at Florence Court, County Fermanagh which is not far from Wyatt’s own neo-classical masterpiece Castle Coole.
Four mahogany doors set on the cardinal points and within relieving arches open into the stair hall. The cantilevered Portland stone stairs (with slender brass balusters finishing in a mahogany handrail) rise with gentle sinuosity around the wall perimeter, breaking once to form a landing directly above the door facing that from the entrance hall. At this level the doors are surrounded by arched frames which are also repeated around the curved walls, even when the stairs intervene. In order to minimise the divide between ground and first floor Johnston devised a shallow stepped Greek key border interwoven with a vine tendril, lines of acorns hanging from the lower section. Once on the landing, greater degrees of decoration are permitted, not least in the treatment of a further series of arches alternately left clear and filled with stuccowork of frolicking putti (and in three places they open into shallow lobbies providing access to bedrooms). At their topmost point these arches are tied by keystones to a frieze beneath the dome of ox skulls between swathes of drapery. Above it all rises the lightly coffered dome of thirty feet diameter, the central portion being glazed. There are times when language cannot do justice to a work of art, and Townley’s stair hall is one of them: the pictures shown here are infinitely more eloquent. The elegance of proportions, the perfection of form, the play of light on surface all combine to make this without question one of the loveliest rooms in the country, a flawless piece of design, the culmination of 18th century Irish architecture and a tribute to those responsible for its creation. No longer a private house, the building is now under the care of the School of Philosophy and Economic Science which is currently undertaking a programme of repair.
*From Charles Baudelaire’s L’invitation au voyage.
With thanks to Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects.
Radiating Portland stone lozenges cover the floor of the staircase hall at Townley Hall, County Louth. Dating from the late 1790s, the house is architect Francis Johnston’s masterpiece, one of the purest examples of neo-classicism in Ireland. This also marks the hundredth piece from the Irish Aesthete since the site made its debut last September. And so readers, you are cordially invited to offer feedback: what subjects most interest you; about what would you like to read more; are there buildings or subjects you wish to see featured? As ever, comments of the literate and temperate variety are welcomed.
The limestone gate lodge of Townley Hall, County Louth, believed to have been designed around 1819 by the main house’s architecturally informed owner Blayney Townley Balfour and his wife Lady Florence Cole. Taking the form of a dimunitive Greek temple, it makes a striking impression not least thanks to the pedimented and Doric columned portico. Although now empty, it continues to be well preserved and to demonstrate the possibility of achieving a lot with a little.
As has been discussed here before, Townley Hall, County Louth is one of Ireland’s most perfect neo-classical buildings (see: https://theirishaesthete.com/2013/06/10/la-tout-nest-quordre-et-beaute). The house was designed in the mid-1790s by Francis Johnston, who until then had been employed primarily by Richard Robinson, Archbishop of Armagh, often to complete commissions left unfinished following the early death of Thomas Cooley in 1784. Townley Hall is his first independent piece of work although here again the client’s involvement was critical since it is known that Blayney Townley Balfour, who owned the property, and his sister Anna Maria were intimately involved in every stage of the design.
Johnston was invited to design not just Townley Hall itself but also a number of ancillary buildings, including a new stableyard. His plans for this survive and are dated between 1799 (work being initiated on the site in May of that year) and 1804. The intention was to build around a rectangular courtyard with coach house and grainstore topped by a cupola on the north side, and stables coming forward to its immediate east and west. The south side was to be taken up by screen wall with arched entrance. Sadly this scheme was never realized, possibly for financial reasons (like many other house builders before and since, Blayney Townley Balfour discovered the initial budget was insufficient). Instead, while the northern range was constructed, it lacked the proposed cupola, and only the western range of stables were finished; a terrace of single-storey cottages runs along the eastern side of the site. Likewise the south wall with entrance arch was left unbuilt, and even a modified plan for railings with piers went unrealized. A drawing of the plan survives a penciled note reading ‘not built yet – 1837 FTB’, those initials standing for Lady Florence Townley Balfour (daughter of the first Earl of Enniskillen) who had married Blayney Townley Balfour in 1797.
As is well known, Townley Hall was sold by the heirs of the Townley Balfour family in the 1950s and, having been owned for a short period of time by Trinity College Dublin, was sold again with the Land Commission taking the greater part of the surrounding estate. Many of the ancillary buildings are no longer part of Townley Hall, including the former stableyard. Almost every other part of the former estate has been restored and brought into use, but sadly this element, which is, it seems, independently owned, has languished in neglect for a number of years, and is now in poor repair. Even if not as originally intended by Johnston, the yard remains associated with what is widely judged to be his masterpiece, and accordingly deserves a better fate.
In 1611, Sir Michael Balfour (d. 1619), 1st Lord Balfour of Burleigh, was appointed as one of the undertakers of the plantation of Ulster, and given a grant of 3,000 acres in County Fermanagh. Being preoccupied with affairs in England and Scotland, he seems to have made over some 2,000 acres of this grant to his younger brother, Sir James Balfour (d. 1634) (ennobled in 1619 as 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley in the Irish peerage), and to have sold the remainder to Sir Stephen Butler. In about 1618 Sir James built Balfour Castle at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) in fulfilment of the requirement on the plantation undertakers to establish defensible homes on their estates, and in 1626 he had a further grant of lands in Fermanagh. At some point before 1634, however, he sold the Pitcullo estate in Fife and his property in northern Ireland to Sir William Balfour (c.1575-1660), a soldier who was in the service of the States of Holland until 1627 and thereafter in that of King Charles I. Sir William is sometimes described as Lord Balfour of Glenawley’s cousin, but although the two men were evidently kin, any connection between them lay in the 15th century or earlier and is too distant to be traced. Sir William, who was Constable of the Tower of London 1630-41, can have had little time for his Irish property, but when it was threatened by the Irish rebellion of 1641, he dispatched his eldest son to Ireland as part of the Scots army sent to put down the rebellion, and he later obtained a commission to take a regiment to Ireland himself, although the start of the English civil war the following year prevented his going. Sir William’s staunch Presbyterian and anti-Catholic views (it is said that in 1638 he beat up a priest who attempted to convert his wife to Catholicism) led to increasingly uncertainty about his loyalty to Charles I, and at the end of 1641 he seems to have been forced to resign the constableship of the Tower. When the English Civil War began the following summer he joined the Parliamentarian side, and he was active in the field in many of the major engagements until 1645, when his health seems to have broken down, and he gave up his commands. Parliament ordered the payment of all his arrears of pay (some £7,000), but shortly afterwards doubts arose about his loyalty which were made a convenient excuse to defer payment, and much of the amount was still outstanding in 1655. In his declining years, Sir William made his home in Westminster, where he died in 1660, having lived just long enough to see the restoration of the monarchy. His widow, Isabella, continued to live there until her death in 1678.
Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) married twice. By his first wife, he had two sons, Alexander and William, who were both soldiers like their father. The intention seems to have been for Alexander to inherit the Irish estates and for William to inherit Pitcullo, but in fact both men were killed during the Civil War, so that Sir William’s property devolved on his only son by his second wife, Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713). It may be that Pitcullo formed part of the dowry of one of Sir William’s three daughters, or it may have been sold, but at all events it seems to have left the family at this time, and Charles and his descendants only had significant property in Ireland. Balfour Castle seems to have survived the Civil Wars of the mid 17th century and to have been reinforced in 1652 by Edmund Ludlow as a Protestant stronghold. It was less fortunate in 1689, when it is said to have been ‘dismantled’, presumably by the army of King James II, in a conflict in which Charles’s son, William Balfour (d. 1739) was active in the Williamite cause. Although the house was evidently repaired and continued in use down to 1803, it was probably no longer fit for gentry occupation, and the house belonging to William at Lisnaskea in 1730 (which was then said to be in poor condition and occupied as an alehouse) was probably a house in the town rather than the castle. William, who was the first of his family known to have served as an MP, probably lived mainly in Dublin. The estate was gradually fragmented by land sales in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, and it was a greatly diminished property which passed at William’s death in 1739 to his nephew, Henry (or Harry) Townley, who took the additional surname Balfour as a condition of his inheritance.
Henry Townley (1693-1741) was the son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont Hall, Louth and his wife Lucy, the sister of William Balfour. Blayney Townley had been born at Athclare Castle near Dunleer (Co. Louth), but apparently went to live at Piedmont Hall on his marriage in 1692. It seems likely that this property had belonged to his family for some time, but the house there may have been built for him. It was already shown as ruined on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey of Ireland 6″ map in the mid-19th century, but an account of 1924, when about half of the original house was still standing, described it as ‘a long, two-storied slated house’, very tall and narrow from front to back, with three high pitched gables facing the rear. Only a gable-end seems to survive today, and no illustration of the house has been found. At Piedmont House, Blayney and Lucy Townley raised a family of three sons and four daughters, and also Lucy’s daughter by her first husband. Henry Townley (later Townley Balfour) was their eldest son, and inherited Piedmont Hall on his father’s death as well as the Balfour Castle estate. He and his wife had only one son and one daughter, and the son, William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) died without issue, with the result that the estates passed to Henry’s surviving younger brother, Blayney Townley Townley (1705-88) of Townley Hall (Co. Louth), which he had acquired through his marriage to his cousin Mary, daughter of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall. Blayney Townley took the additional name Balfour on coming into his inheritance, and ever afterwards the heir in each generation had the names Blayney Townley Balfour.
In 1788, on the death of Blayney Townley Balfour (d. 1788), the Townley Hall, Piedmont Hall and Balfour Castle estates all descended to his grandson of the same name (1769-1856), who was travelling in Germany and Switzerland at the time. A cultured young man, he took a particular interest in architecture, and before leaving for further continental travels in 1791-92, he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from the young Irish architect, Francis Johnston (1760-1829). Johnston’s design, for a tall pedimented block very much like his recently completed house at Rokeby Hall (Co. Louth) survives, but evidently did not satisfy his client. While in Rome, Townley Balfour commissioned alternative designs from the Scottish architect James Playfair which were delivered in 1793, after his return to Ireland. All Playfair’s schemes proposed a neo-classical house with a sunk basement and detached kitchen wing, and these ideas provided the starting point for Balfour and his sister Anne, an accomplished amateur of architecture, to develop their own design. It was they who came up with the idea of planning the house around a circular staircase hall 30ft in diameter set in the centre of a house 90ft square. Having done so, they went back to Johnston, who developed the detailed proposals that allowed the house to actually be built and prepared an estimate for its construction in January 1794. In 1797, Balfour married Lady Florence Cole, a daughter of the Earl of Erne from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh), who came to share the interest of her husband and sister-in-law in architecture. She perhaps introduced her husband to the sophisticated elegance of James Wyatt’s work at Castle Coole, near her parents’ home, echoes of which can be found in the detailing and interior decoration of Townley Hall.
In 1821, B.T. Balfour sold what was left of the Balfour Castle estate to his father-in-law (then approaching the venerable age of ninety) and thereafter the interests of the family were concentrated in County Louth. The one exception to that seems to have been a property at Rostrevor (Co. Down), which seems to have become, in effect, the family’s dower house. Balfour’s sister Anne (d. 1820), who married the Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson, rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), lived in her short widowhood at Rostrevor and the family may have owned a property there from that time onwards.
At all events, when Balfour died in 1856 and his son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) moved into Townley Hall, his widow and her unmarried daughters moved to Rostrevor, where they acquired an irregular picturesque villa with deep eaves, bay windows, bargeboards, and Tudor hoodmoulds over some of the windows. This house, known as Fairy Hill, stood close to the centre of the village, and seems to have been built in the 1830s or 1840s, perhaps for the previous owner, Pierse Marcus Barron, who was resident in 1851. The family seem to have sold it after the last of the Balfour sisters died in 1892.
Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) seems to have spend a good deal of his time in England, where he lived in both London and Bristol at different times. He was a friend of Lord Goderich, who was briefly Prime Minister in the 1820s, and who seems to have secured his appointment as Lieutenant Governor of the Bahamas, 1833-35, an isolated public appointment in the career of an otherwise rather private man of antiquarian interests. He was succeeded by his elder son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928), a cultured man, also with antiquarian interests, who married late and had no children. In 1908 he became one of the first landowners in County Louth to take advantage of the Wyndham Act and sell his estate to his tenants. He retained only the demesne (still some 850 acres), and when he died, this and the house passed to his widow, Madeline Balfour (d. 1955). She bequeathed the estate to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it two years later to Trinity College, Dublin. The house was restored and occupied by the college’s School of Agriculture for some years, but in 1967 the University decided to sell the estate to the Land Commission and the Forestry Dept. Professor Frank Mitchell, one of the fellows of TCD, who was concerned about the fate of other houses which had passed into the hands of the agencies of the Irish state, stepped in to buy the house and immediate grounds to ensure their preservation. He and his wife turned the house into a study centre, and when they decided to retire, they found a charitable organisation, the School of Philosophy and Economic Science, who have on the whole been sympathetic owners and have carried out a fine restoration of the house.
Townley Hall, Co. Louth
One of the greatest neo-classical houses of Ireland, built in 1794-98 for Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh) to designs by Francis Johnston, but evidently with considerable input from Balfour himself and his sister Anne, who emerges as an accomplished amateur architect.
Townley Hall: entrance front.
The square house of grey limestone sits on the crown of a shallow hill and has three seven-bay fronts ’of singular and impressive austerity’ of two storeys above a sunk basement; the kitchen offices (which became derelict and roofless in the 20th century but have been recently returned to use for new purposes) are below ground level and open onto a broad yard at the back of the house which is almost entirely concealed from view.
Townley Hall: the Greek Doric portico on the entrance front. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The main facades are identical except for the single-storey Greek Doric portico on the entrance front, and devoid of all ornament except for a stringcourse and a bold cornice supporting a parapet that conceals the low-pitched roof. The facades derive their beauty from perfect proportions and the precision and accomplishment of the detail.
Inside, the entrance hall has a Portland stone floor, coffered ceiling, arched recesses on the walls and a pair of finely carved Doric chimneypieces. It leads through to a central top-lit circular rotunda with a glazed dome, which houses the wonderfully graceful staircase curving gently around the wall of the room. The floor has a complex radiating pattern of angular lozenges. On the first floor the wall is articulated as a succession of eight shallow arches, tied by enlarged keystones to a frieze of ox skulls set between swathes of fringed drapery. The soffit of the dome is panelled in light diagonal coffers in a pattern based on the popular model of the apses of the Temple of Venus in Rome, but subtly adapted by Johnston to be lighter and more elegant. In designing the room, Johnston has also avoided a heavy division between the ground and first floors, or between the first floor and the dome, so that the whole cylindical space of the rotunda flows upwards in an unbroken movement.
Townley Hall: staircase hall in 1996. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The rest of the interior consists of a series of generously large, airy rooms with simple decoration of refreshing clarity, arranged around the staircase hall and given sophistication by the quality of their joinery and plasterwork, which is evidently influenced (in both details such as the central circular panels of the drawing room doors and the drawing room ceiling) by a knowledge of what was being done at Castlecoole (Co. Fermanagh) under the direction of James Wyatt. The drawing room and dining room in particular are beautifully proportioned rooms, 18 ft high, 24 ft wide and 36 ft long. The rightness of these ratios is felt within each room and is enhanced by the clean lines of the cornices and the shallow mouldings on ceilings, doors, architraves and shutters.
In the basement below the staircase hall, the great weight of the Portland stone pavement above required support. The first idea was to build a circular load-bearing wall in the centre of the room, but in the end this was replaced by a more elegant quatrefoil Gothick shaft, which is plumbed to carry water to four stone basins at the base of the shaft. It is the one departure from the classical in the house, and seems to be inspired by a famous local antiquity, the lavabo at Mellifont Abbey, some three miles away. The execution of the Gothic mouldings, carved by a mason called Glover, is as precise as the classical detail elsewhere.
After their marriage in 1796, Lady Florence Balfour came to share the architectural interests of her husband and sister-in-law, and it was certainly she and her husband who designed the main entrance gates, erected in 1810, and probably the gate lodge, built in 1819 as a primitive temple, perhaps to prepare the visitor for the radical austerity of the house. Built in an unorthodox Tuscan order, its portico has baseless columns with smooth shafts, primitive blockish capitals, and a deeply overhanging eaves cornice supported on elongated mutules – a miniature and neo-classical reworking of Inigo Jones’ design for St. Paul, Covent Garden.
Townley Hall: the gate lodge designed in 1819 by Blayney and Lady Florence Balfour. Image: Patrick Comerford
Since 2012 the house has been undergoing a programme of gentle repair and refreshment under the experienced guidance of MVK Architects. A major element of the scheme has been the return of the former kitchen wing to habitable use as bedroom and bathroom accommodation for the residential study centre which now occupies the house, and this is very welcome in principle. Unfortunately, to provide the accommodation required a second floor and lift tower has been added to the kitchen wing, and the decision has been made to execute this in a minimalist modern style in the apparent belief that this will somehow echo the austerity of Johnston’s original design. This is misguided on at least two levels. In the first place, there is a world of difference between the precise and refined restraint of the original design, which is practised within the fundamental constraints imposed by the classical language, and the interstellar-void-bleakness of modernist austerity. Secondly, the elevation of the wing to the sunk rear courtyard was the one part of the original design that broke with the severity of the main block, having an elegant arcade of three tall arched windows (lighting the kitchen) set between a pair of unusual features in which a low segmental arch is cut by a beam, at the level of the impost of the kitchen arcade, and supported by a pair of baseless, unfluted columns. The alien new extension squats on top of this highly modelled facade with all the charm and responsiveness of a shoe box. Moreover, whereas the original design carefully sunk the kitchen wing into the ground, so that from three sides the house appeared unencumbered by any service additions, the addition of a second floor means it is now visible in all views of the house from the north, south and west. One hopes that this uncharacteristic lapse of judgement will soon be corrected, and the addition either removed or remodelled in a more acceptable form.
Descent: Hamilton Townley (b. 1673); to daughter Mary, wife of Blayney Townley Balfour (1705-88); to grandson, Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856); to son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882); to son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928); to widow, Madeline Elizabeth Balfour (d. 1955); to cousin, David Crichton; sold 1956 to Trinity College, Dublin for use by its School of Agriculture; sold 1967 to Professor Frank Mitchell; sold to School of Philosophy and Economic Science, a charity, for use as a residential study centre.
Balfour family of Castle Balfour and Townley Hall
Balfour, Lt-Gen. Sir William (c.1575-1660). Elder son of Col. Henry Balfour (d. 1580), a mercenary in the service of William of Orange, and his wife Christian, sister of Capt. David Cant, perhaps born c.1575. Educated by Duncan Balfour of St. Andrews, who was appointed his tutor after his father’s death. He served at intervals as an officer in the Scottish brigade in the Low Countries (Lt. by 1594; Sergeant-Major, 1610; Capt., 1615-24), but was also a member of the household of King James VI and I. In 1627 King Charles I secured his release from Dutch service and he became an officer in the Earl of Morton’s regiment (Lt-Col.), and then in 1630 Governor of the Tower of London. He was knighted by King James I in about 1605 and made a Gentleman of the Privy Chamber in the late 1620s. He was employed on a variety of difficult and confidential missions by King Charles, and rewarded with a lucrative patent to mint gold and silver money at the Tower in 1633. He was appointed to the King’s Council of War in June 1638 and continued in favour until 1641, but his strong Presbyterianism and strong anti-Catholicism seem gradually to have weakened his loyalty, and in December 1641 he either resigned or more probably was forced to resign, his Constableship of the Tower. In the spring of 1642 he was appointed to the command of a cavalry regiment destined for service in Ulster (where he no doubt hoped to protect his own property from the Catholic rebels), but before he could set off the English civil war had broken out and in August 1642 he joined the Parliamentarian side, being appointed a Lt-General of horse under the Earl of Bedford. He was active in the field until 1645 when he became too ill to continue fighting. As a Scot he was perhaps never wholly trusted by the English parliamentarians, and in 1650 when Cromwell proposed to invade Scotland he accepted a commission from the Scots parliament to command ‘strangers and native volunteers’, although he never seems to have taken up the command. In 1651 his wife was given four weeks to leave England, but later in the 1650s they lived quietly in Westminster. He married 1st, Helen (d. 1629), daughter of Sir Archibald Napier of Merchiston, and 2nd, Isabella (d. 1678), daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry More, son of Sir Edward More, and had issue: (1.1) Lt-Col. Alexander Balfour (fl. 1619-45); an officer in the service of the Dutch; married Elizabeth Anne Brunch or Bueuch, but perhaps had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Ireland; (1.2) Col. William Balfour (fl. 1619-44); had a grant of Pitcullo from his father, 24 August 1619; an officer in the Dutch army (Col.) and later in the service of Parliament as a cavalry commander during the Civil War, when he was active in Cornwall and Devon; married Christian Melville, but had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Somerset; (2.1) Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713) (q.v.); (2.2) Susanna Balfour (d. 1687); married 1st, c.1659, as his third wife, Hugh Hamilton (d. 1678), 1st Baron Hamilton of Glenawley, son of Malcolm Hamilton, Archbishop of Cashel, and had issue two sons and two daughters; married 2nd, Henry Mervyn MP (c.1628-1701) of Trillick (Tyrone); died in Dublin, 11 December, and was buried there 14 December 1687; (2.3) Emilia Balfour (d. 1683); married, before 1657, Alexander Stewart (1634-1701), 5th Earl of Moray and had issue four sons and one daughter; died 16 January 1683; (2.4) Isabella Balfour (fl. 1674); married, 1649, John Balfour (c.1620-97), 3rd Lord Balfour of Burleigh, and had issue three sons and six daughters. He purchased the lands and castle of Pitcullo and Castle Balfour at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) from Sir James Balfour (d. 1634), 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley between 1626 and 1629. He was buried at Westminster (Middx), 28 July 1660. His first wife died in December 1629. His widow was buried at Westminster, 28 March 1674; her will was proved in the PCC, 1 April 1674.
Balfour, Charles (c.1631-1713). Only son of Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) and his second wife Isabella, daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry Moore, born about 1631. He married, 1665, Cicely (c.1644-88), daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts) and had issue: (1) William Balfour (d. 1739) (q.v.); (2) Lucy Balfour (d. 1713) (q.v.); (3) A daughter. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1660. He died in May 1713. His wife died in about 1688.
Balfour, William (d. 1739). Only son of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). He was an officer in the army of the Prince of Orange in Ireland (Capt., 1688; retired on half-pay by 1713) and was attainted by King James II and the Irish Parliament in 1689. Despite this, he was initially a Tory in politics, but by 1713 had joined the Whigs; he was MP for Carlingford, 1705-13, and for Augher, 1713-14, 1715-39. He was awarded an honorary degree by Trinity College, Dublin, 1718 (LLD). High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1734. He was unmarried and without issue. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1713, but by 1730 his house at Lisnaskea was being used as an alehouse and was in poor repair. At his death the estate passed to his nephew, Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741). He probably lived mainly in Dublin. He died 19 April 1739; his will was proved in Dublin the same year.
Balfour, Lucy (d. 1713). Elder daughter of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). She married 1st, 1684, Hugh McGill (d. 1690) of Kirkestown (Co. Down) and 2nd, 14 November 1692, Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont (Co. Louth) and Athclare Castle (Co. Louth), MP in Irish Parliament for Dunleer, 1692-93, 1695-99, 1703-14 and for Carlingford 1715-22, son of Henry Blayney (d. 1691) of Aclare (Louth), and had issue: (1.1) Jane McGill (c.1690-c.1776); married Samuel Molyneux Madden (1686-1765), and had issue one son and one daughter; (2.1) Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) (q.v.); (2.2) Elizabeth Townley (c.1694-1750); married, 1 October 1709, Rev. Hans Montgomerie (1668-1726), rector of Killinshee, vicar of Ballywalter and curate of Grey Abbey, and had issue four daughters; died 3 January 1750; (2.3) Charles Townley; (2.4) Mary Townley; (2.5) Lucy Townley; married [forename unknown] Berry; (2.6) Vincentia Townley (c.1704-63); married, 18 April 1730, Wallop Brabazon (1698-1767) of Rath (Louth), and had issue three sons and one daughter; died 1763. (2.7) Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) (q.v.). She and her second husband settled at Piedmont (Co. Louth). She died 14 June 1713 and was buried at Dunleer. Her first husband died between 1684 and 1692. Her second husband died at Piedmont, 22 August 1722, and was buried at Dunleer; his will was proved in Dublin, 1723.
Townley (later Balfour), Henry (1693-1741). Elder son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 19 December 1693. Sovereign (i.e. Mayor) of Carlingford, 1720, 1728; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1726. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1727-41. He took the additional surname Balfour in 1739 after inheriting the estates of his uncle, William Balfour, and was described by his obituarist as “a Gentleman of sweet Temper, great Honour and Hospitality, and every Virtue that could render a Man agreeable”. He married, 1724, Anne (d. 1741), daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wicklow), and had issue: (1) William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) (q.v.); (2) Emilia Balfour. He inherited the Piedmont (Co. Louth) estate from his father in 1722 and Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) from his maternal uncle in 1739. He died in Dublin, 20 July 1741. His wife’s will was proved in 1741.
Balfour, William Charles Townley (c.1730-59). Only son of Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) and his wife Anne, daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wexford), born about 1730. A member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1756-59. High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1757. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1757-59. He married, 1754, Mary (c.1733-89), daughter of Maj. Thomas Aston of Drogheda (Co. Louth), but had no issue. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his father in 1741 and lived at Beamore (Co. Meath). On his death his estates passed to his uncle, Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88). His widow lived for some years at Chequers (Bucks). He died 21 November 1759. His widow died in 1789.
Townley (later Balfour), Blayney Townley (1705-88). Youngest son of Blayney Townley (1666-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 26 July 1705 and baptised, probably at Ballymascanlan. Educated at Carrickmacross Grammar School, Trinity College, Dublin (admitted 1723) and Middle Temple (admitted 1727; called to Irish bar. 1731). A Governor of the Dublin Workhouse, 1755-68 and of the Foundling Hospital and Workhouse, 1769-88; a member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1768-88. He took the additional surname Balfour on inheriting the estates of his nephew in 1759. MP in Irish Parliament for Carlingford, Jan-Oct 1760, 1761-76. He married, 30 November 1734, his first cousin Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), and had issue: (1) Hamilton Townley Balfour (1742-46), born 1742; died young, 1746; (2) Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) (q.v.). On his marriage, he settled at Townley Hall which his wife had inherited from her father. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his nephew in 1759. He died in 1788. His wife’s date of death is unknown.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1744-71). Only surviving son of Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) and his wife Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall (Co. Louth) and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), born 1744. Educated at Brasenose College, Oxford (matriculated 1763). High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1771. He married, 20 February 1768, Letitia (1746-1838), daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) (q.v.); (2) Anna Maria Townley Balfour (1770-1820); shared her brother’s interest in architecture and was involved in the design of Townley Hall; married, 6 November 1793, Very Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson (1768-1811), Dean of Clonmacnoise and rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), 1806-11, third son of Richard Dawson of Ardee, but had no issue; died at Rostrevor (Down), 19 May and was buried at Townley Hall, 23 May 1820; (3) Mary Frances Townley Balfour (1772-1820), born 1772; died unmarried on the day of her sister’s burial, 23 May 1820. He died in the lifetime of his father, 8 December 1771. His widow died in Dublin aged 91, 10 April 1838, and her will was proved the same year.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1769-1856). Only son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) and his wife Letitia, daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, born 28 May 1769. Educated at Trinity College, Oxford (matriculated 1786), travelled in Switzerland and Germany, 1788, made a visit to Nice (France), 1791, with his mother and sisters, and then went on alone to Italy (visiting Genoa, Turin, Parma, Modena, Bologna, Florence and Rome, and returning by Venice) in 1791-92. During his travels, he became interested in architecture, and while in Rome he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from James Playfair, which were eventually superseded. He and his sister Anne seem both to have been competent amateur architects, and his wife came to share their interest. He had important input into the eventual design of the new house at Townley Hall, and he and his wife evidently designed the lodge and gatepiers. JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Louth, 1792. In politics he was strongly opposed to the Union with Great Britain, and secured a seat in the Irish Parliament as MP for Belturbet, Jan-August 1800 in order to vote against it. He married, 17 October 1797, Lady Florence (c.1779-1862), daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) (q.v.); (2) Anne Maria Townley Balfour (1800-92), born 5 July 1800; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor (Co. Down); died unmarried aged 92, on 29 August 1892; will proved in Dublin, 14 February 1893 (effects £5,616); (3) Rev. Willoughby William Townley Balfour (1801-88), born 10 October 1801; educated at Harrow and Trinity College, Dublin (matriculated 1819; BA 1823); ordained deacon, 1829 and priest, 1832; vicar of Askeaton (Co. Limerick), 1833-37; rector of Aston Flamville with Burbage (Leics), 1837-78; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 29 June 1888; will proved 29 November 1888 (effects £3,276); (4) Letitia Frances Townley Balfour (1803-85), born 7 November 1803; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor; died unmarried, 30 January 1885; will proved 24 March 1885 (effects £5,144); (5) Francis Leigh Townley Balfour (1805-33), born 22 February and baptised at Clifton (Glos), 27 February 1805; died unmarried of “the Country Fever”, 28 October 1833 and was buried in St John’s Cathedral, Belize City, where he is commemorated by a mural tablet designed by Joseph Theakston and executed in 1844; (6) Florence Henrietta Townley Balfour (1808-81), born 28 July 1808; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 23 July 1881; will proved 25 November 1881 (effects £3,894); (7) Maj. Arthur Lowry (Townley) Balfour (1809-50), born 3 December 1809; an officer in the army (Lt., 1833; Capt., 1839; Maj., 1849); ADC to Sir Charles Metcalfe as Governor General of Canada, 1843; died of smallpox at Govindhur (India), 13 July 1850; administration of his goods was granted to one of his creditors, 5 August 1858 (effects under £450); (8) Elizabeth Sarah Townley Balfour (1813-38), born 21 August and baptised at Kingston (Surrey), 12 September 1813; died unmarried, ‘after a few hours’ illness’ at Ryde (IoW), 19 November 1838; (9) Lowry Vesey Townley Balfour (1819-78), born 30 March 1819; Secretary of the Order of St. Patrick and Gentleman-at-Large to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland; died unmarried in Dublin, 12 February 1878; will proved in Dublin, 6 June 1878 (estate in Ireland under £7,000 and in England under £1,500). He inherited Townley Hall from his grandfather in 1788, and built a new house there in 1794-98 to the designs of Francis Johnston. He sold the remaining part of the Castle Balfour estate in 1821 to John Creighton (1731-1828), 1st Earl of Erne. He died 22 December 1856. His widow died at Rostrevor (Co. Down), 1 March 1862; her will was proved 10 April 1862 (effects under £8,000).
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1799-1882). Eldest son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence, daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, born 2 July 1799. Educated at Christ Church, Oxford (matriculated 1818; BA 1822). Lieutenant-Governor of the Bahama Islands, 1833-35. JP for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1841. While on honeymoon in Rome in 1843 he bought, with some other Jacobite relics, a volume of reflections and private devotions in the hand of King James II, printed for the Roxburghe Club in 1925; the original is now in the library of Trinity College, Dublin. He married, 12 January 1843 at Leamington Spa (Warks), Elizabeth Catherine (1820-1904), daughter and heiress of Richard Molesworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), and had issue: (1) Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928) (q.v.); (2) Rt. Rev. Francis Richard Townley Balfour (1846-1924), born at Sorrento (Italy), 21 June 1846; educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (MA 1872) and Cuddesdon Theological College; ordained deacon, 1872 and priest, 1874; undertook missionary work for the Society for the Propogration of the Gospel in Basutoland (now Lesotho) and South Africa from 1875, and became a fluent speaker of Sesotho, into which language he translated the Bible and the Book of Common Prayer; chaplain to Bishop of Bloemfontein, 1875-82; canon of Bloemfontein, 1884-1901; Archdeacon of Bloemfontein, 1901-06 and of Basutoland, 1908-22; he was consecrated an Assistant Bishop in the diocese of Bloemfontein in 1911 and was thus effectively the first Anglican bishop in Basutoland; died at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 3 February 1924 and was buried in the grounds of Mellifont Abbey (Co. Louth); will proved in Dublin (estate £10,499); (3) Catherine Florence Agnes Balfour (1858-1912), born 17 January 1858; died unmarried at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 13 January 1912; will proved in Dublin, 29 February 1912 (estate £11,307); (4) Mary Henrietta Balfour (1860-1937), born 23 October 1860; died in Shankill (Co. Dublin), 24 August 1937; her will was proved in London, 6 December 1937 (estate £13,298). He inherited Townley Hall from his father in 1856, but seems to have spent much of his time in England, usually in London or Bristol. He died 5 September 1882; his will was proved in Dublin, 20 December 1882 (effects in Ireland, £20,723) and in London, 15 January 1883 (effects in England £337). His widow died 9 January 1904; her will was proved in Dublin, 25 February 1904 (estate in Ireland, £9,641) and sealed in London, 5 March 1904 (estate in England, £7,322).
Townley Balfour, Blayney Reynell (1845-1928). Elder son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) and his wife Elizabeth Catherine, daughter and heiress of Richard Mackworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), born in Dublin, 15 April 1845. Educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (matriculated 1866; BA 1871; MA 1874) and Middle Temple (admitted 1879). JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1885, 1908. “His manner was somewhat reserved and distant, but his disposition was thoroughly kind and charitable” and he was noted for his philanthropic activities, both in Co. Louth and for national and international causes. He was a Member of the Royal Irish Academy from 1890 and a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Ireland, and wrote several works about the antiquities of Drogheda; he was also responsible for instigating the repair of the monument on the site of the Battle of the Boyne. He married, 24 January 1906 at St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Madeline Elizabeth (1867-1955), elder daughter of John Kells Ingram LLD, Vice-Provost of Trinity College, Dublin, but had no issue. He inherited the 3,173 acre Townley Hall estate from his father in 1882, but in 1908 he became one of the first landowners to sell the majority of the estate to his tenants under the Wyndham Act. He retained only the 856 acre demesne, which was sold to him under the Act, allowing him to claim a £14,000 advance of purchase money and a 12% bonus, and subsequently to make annual repayments; this device – allowed as an incentive to landowners – enabled him to invest in estate improvements. At his death the house and remaining estate passed to his widow, who left it to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it 1957 to Trinity College, Dublin. He died 21 October 1928; will proved in London, 11 March 1929 (effects in England £39,606), in Dublin, 5 April 1929 (effects in Ireland £39,282), in Belfast, 13 May 1929 (effects in Northern Ireland £890) and confirmed in Scotland, 31 May 1929 (effects in Scotland £1,278). His widow died 25 March 1955; her will was proved in Dublin, 3 August 1955 (estate £52,246).
Sources
Burke’s Landed Gentry of Ireland, 1912, pp. 24-25; Anon., ‘Two Residences of the Townley Family in Co. Louth’, Journal of the County Louth Archaeological Society, 1924, pp. 267-269; A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North-West Ulster, 1979, p. 359; M. Bence-Jones, A guide to Irish country houses, 2nd edn., 1990, pp. 275-76; C. Casey & A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North Leinster, 1993, pp. 503-08; J. Ingamells, A dictionary of British and Irish travellers in Italy, 1701-1800, 1999, p. 44; E.M. Johnston-Liik, The History of the Irish Parliament, 1692-1800, vol. 3, pp. 130-31, vol. 6, pp. 425-28.
Location of archives
Balfour family of Balfour Castle (Fermanagh): deeds, estate and legal papers, 17th-19th cents. [Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, D1939] Balfour family of Townley Hall (Louth): deeds, estate and family papers, 17th-20th cents. [National Library of Ireland, D971, D1902, D2624; T3763; MS3771]
Coat of arms
Townley Balfour of Townley Hall: Quarterly, 1st and 4th, argent, on a chevron sable, an otter’s head erased, of the first; 2nd and 3rd, argent, a fesse sable, in chief three mullets of the second.
Notes about missing information and help wanted with this entry
If anyone can provide an image of Piedmont Hall (Co. Louth) when it was intact or substantially so, I would be very pleased to see it. I would also welcome any early photographs of Townley Hall, especially views of the interior showing it as it was furnished before it was sold in 1957.
If anyone can provide additional genealogical or biographical details about the people mentioned above, or further portraits or photographs of members of the family, I should be very pleased to incorporate them.
Revision and acknowledgements
This post was first published 24 October 2018.
Townley Hall, perhaps the premier country house achievement of Francis Johnston , is a neoclassical wonder near Drogheda in county Louth. It was completed for Blayney Townley Balfour in 1799, the work having taken about 5 years. It’s 2 storey over basement ( although there is also an attic floor with windows hidden behind the tall cornice and from the rear looks 4 storey with the basement exposed ) ,and has 3 seven bay sides each 90 feet in length .The front also has a single storey portico with twined fluted columns. There is a single storey wing in the rear sunken yard which was for kitchen use .
The external droved ashlar is of the highest standard, the limestone sourced locally, possibly Sheepgrange.
It’s austere plainness, with the exception of string course and cornice , it’s pure scale, build quality and positioning amalgamate to create a building of beauty and for want of a better description,strength .
The pond at the front of the house is a relatively speaking recent addition, although there was a pond about 500 yards to the north of the house at one time pre 20th century .
While Francis Johnston was the principal architect here, it is also known that Blayney Townley Balfour( having completed a grand tour ) ,along with his sister and in laws , greatly contributed to its design and build .
Balfour and his wife ,Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court in Fermanagh ,designed the Boyne gate lodge ( it was one of 3) themselves circa 1819.
Balfour had discussed details at one stage with a Scottish architect James Playfair, but in the end went with Johnston . It was I believe perhaps Johnstons first major solo commission .
The central rotunda , glass dome and staircase are especially magnificent . The seemingly magically floating ascent to the stars adorned with niches, apses ,recesses
and decorative plasterwork leave one agog and in awe. My photos and description do it no justice. The Pantheon in Rome springs to mind perhaps.
The daring way in which the steps of the stairs in essence support one after another with only stability support from the wall has to be applauded not only for their beauty, but also perhaps their bravery.
The internal doors, made from Cuban mahogany bear no hinges, but use steel pivots top and bottom, window shutters with movements that mesmerise , a gothic shaft in the lower hall( plumbed) to support the portland stone floor above are just a few examples showing the difference between this house and many others as regards details . I am also informed the house was one of the first in Ireland to have inside toilet facilities.
Blayney Townley Balfour had inherited the estate from his grandfather ( same name).The old house had stood a short distance north of
the new house. The family had large land holdings in Louth and Meath and made a fortune from a mill in Slane. Later , in the 1870s they owned over 3,000 acres in Louth and almost 1,500 in Meath.
The Townley family origins were at Townley Hall in Lancashire, the Balfours were from Burleigh in Scotland.
The Townley Balfour family motto was
Omne solum forti patria ( roughly translates to -every land is home for the brave man )
Our “first ” Blayney Townley had added Balfour to his name after inheriting a large amount from his nephew ( I think) William Balfour . He married his cousin Mary who had inherited the old Townley hall from her father Hamilton Townley . It was this man , then Blayney Townley Balfour that left the estate to his grandson , the builder of the house we see today . That grandson had been an MP ( for Belturbet) , a magistrate in Louth and Meath , High Sheriff in 1792 and DL in his old age 1852.
His son , another Blayney Townley Balfour inherited , having been Governor of the Bahamas 1833-35. It was subsequently his son who was then the last to live at a Townley Hall. He was Blayney Reynold Townley Balfour . In the 1901 census he and his wife Madeline ( 22 years his junior )were in residence with 8 servants . It reported there were 42 rooms in use.
When the widowed Mrs Townley Balfour died in 1954 , she left the place to a family relative , David Crichton ( possibly connected to the Crichton family at Crom Castle, but that is speculative on my part ).He sold the house and it’s by then 850 acres to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural college . Subsequently they sold off most of the land to the land commission and forestry Dept. The house and about 60 acres were bought by Frank Mitchell , a Trinity lecturer ,in the late 1960s. He sold it to the School of Philosophy and Economic Science who use and maintain it nowadays . The house is of course a private property and I am grateful for the permission to visit and photograph.
An immaculate concept, a gorgeous late Georgian flowering. Townley Hall deep in the Boyne Valley came about in the closing years of the 18th century. Its architect Francis Johnston designed Rokeby Hall, 17 kilometres north of Townley Hall, a decade earlier in 1786. The former is a smaller version of the latter. Both are of a spare patrician architecture so appealing to the modern eye. Plain planes. Townley is an achingly svelte seven bay by seven bay 27.5 metre square block.
The architect conceals and reveals scale and massing as the viewer moves round the outside. This is a four storey house masquerading on three sides as a two storey building. Attic dormers lurk behind a solid parapet in a similar arrangement to the contemporaneous Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, except there the dormers peep through balustraded gaps in the parapet. Townley is Castle Coole taken to next level Grecian severity in a case of keeping up with the Lowry-Corrys. Francis’ brother Richard was the original architect for Castle Coole: he was replaced by the celebrity architect James Wyatt. There is another Fermanagh link: the client Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole in 1794. She was from Florence Court, a neighbouring estate of James Wyatt’s masterpiece.
Townley Hall is an essay in structural rationalism, a formal stone box grounded by rolling countryside. Recent semiformal planting softens the grey to green juxtaposition. Unencumbered by unnecessary architectural frippery, Francis employs taut lines. He let’s go – just a little – with the kitchen wing. A collection of curves carefully enriches the wing’s fenestration: recessed arches, roundheaded windows, segmental arched tripartite mezzanine windows, a bow window. It’s not just an august purity auguring minimalism that defines Townley. Workmanship and materiality are also top notch. The facing ashlar was quarried from nearby Sheephouse. It has lower absorbency than most limestone. Mortar is barely visible between the masonry. Metal rods reinforce the slimmest of glazing bars. A mid storey string cornice and Greek Doric eaves cornice relieve the expanse of wall.
A tetrastyle Doric portico leads into the entrance hall which has twin Doric chimneypieces – more restrained versions that those in Castle Coole. That’s a theme developing in this article. Rectangular plasterwork wall panels resemble vast empty picture frames. A coffered ceiling adds to the room’s crisp angularity. Straight ahead – silent drum roll – is the rotunda, a nine metre diameter glass domed cylinder forming the core of the house. A swagger of genius. A swoop of plasterwork swags and skulls. Irish design at its most suave. All the plasterwork whether naturalistic or geometric is of shallow relief. There are two coats of paint on the rotunda walls: the current 1920s creamy beige over the original stone grey. The ribbed dome casts a spidery web of shadows which leisurely climbs the staircase as the afternoon progresses.
An interlinking ceiling rose pattern in the drawing room is similar to the overhead plasterwork of the dining room in Castle Coole. Like all the main rooms around the rotunda it is 7.3 metres deep. This layout allows all the main rooms to have natural light while the rotunda is top lit. Rokeby Hall is similarly laid out and equally bright. It is an efficient arrangement removing the need for corridors. Andrea Palladio’s 1560s Villa Rotundaoutside Vicenza is an obvious source of inspiration although the dome of Townley is hidden behind the attic floor rather than being on full display. Surprisingly Francis’ drawings illustrate the final rationality of layout and simplicity of design was achieved through an evolutionary process. For example, the more elaborate Ionic order (which James Wyatt used for the portico of Castle Coole) was replaced with the plainer Greek Doric for the portico. Francis was clearly a master of the Golden Ratio.
A set of early 1900s photographs (courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive: reproduced here for non commercial educational purposes) includes views of the interior. Furnishings were suitably classical and restrained. Chinese wallpaper in the south facing drawing room is a rare flush of extravagance. The boudoir and dressing room over the drawing room overlook the parkland. They are one of five family suites clustered around the first floor rotunda landing. On the floor above, the view from the servants’ dormitories is the backside of the parapet below a sliver of sky. The only unobstructed attic windows are in the west facing barrack room which looks down into the courtyard: guards needed to be on watch.
In 1957 the family sold the house and 350 hectare estate to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural school. Since 1977, Townley and its immediate 60 hectares has been a residential study centre owned by the School of Philosophy and Economic Science. A single level extension (visible as one storey on the north front) was recently completed over the kitchen wing plus a double height access link to the original house. The two main conservation schools of thought are to either design an extension that blends in with the host building or one that contrasts with it. The current Irish notion strongly favours the latter. Oh the architectural profession’s fear of that ultimate sin: pastiche! That’s despite every other modern glass building being derived from Philip Johnson’s Glass House in Connecticut and its 70 year old ilk. RKD Architects of Newmarket Dublin secured planning permission for an extension that consisted of similar massing to that executed except the courtyard facing elevation was a dormered mansard. RKD proposed Georgian style sash windows throughout.
Treasa Langford of Dúchas Heritage Service commented on the application, “The finishing of the north wall is not specified; however, the construction is specified as exposed uncoursed rubblestone, which would appear to be inappropriate on a cut stone house such as Townley Hall. We would recommend a ruled and lined nap lime plaster finish without use of cement.” Her opinion is based on the view of sympathetically blending old and new. It could be counterargued that rubblestone would be suitably subservient to the cut stone of the grand main block, emphasising the ancillary nature of the wing.
A decade later, MVK Architects of Fitzwilliam Square Dublin’s design also secured planning permission and this time it was built out. Their approach is very different. The design concept is to add an identifiably contemporary layer to this historic property. Subordination and deference are common themes of both practices’ thinking. MVK’s has neither a mansard nor Georgian style glazing bars but the window openings are classically positioned and proportioned.
Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects relates, “The choice of material was based on aesthetic as well as practical considerations. Natural zinc has a light grey colour – from historic photographs it appears the slate on the original roof had a similar light grey colour. The material is not intended to match the limestone colour but rather be complementary to it. Zinc is natural, hardwearing, long lasting and difficult to puncture. These characteristics make it ideal for long term weatherproofed cladding. It is stiffer than lead or copper and consequently allows for the crispness of detailing which is intended throughout.” This metal envelope is fixed on plywood decking across battens to form a ventilation zone. The zinc is fitted in strips of varying widths using a staggered but repeating rhythm which reflects the use of differently sized limestone blocks on the main house exterior.
The best example in Ireland of a Modernist addition to a neoclassical building is of course the Ulster MuseumBelfast extension. Edinburgh architect James Cumming Wynnes won the 1913 competition for the original museum. The exterior displays fairly ornate Beaux Arts decoration. In 1964, London architect Francis Pym won a competition to extend the museum. His highly inventive design is at once contextual and disruptive. He draws out the neoclassical detailing such as cornices and string courses which then collide with abstract cubic concrete blocks expressing the layout of the galleries inside. Francis’ dramatic work is unsurpassed in its genre. Surprisingly, he worked in church conservation and his only other recorded built form is a gazebo somewhere in England.
This is an article of superlatives. The O’Connell Wing of Abbey Leix in County Laois is a study in how to do it right. Architect John O’Connell’s masterful 1990s reimagining of an unfinished 1860s wing by Thomas Henry Wyatt (an Anglo Irish distant next generation relation of James) is a lesson in improving what’s there already. Client Sir David Davies explains, “This extension was never built as planned but the remains of the Wyatt scheme – a low unadorned wall to the right of the main house was a disfiguring distraction, an issue O’Connell resolved by puncturing the walls with windows and adding architectural ornament.” John O’Connell was also responsible for the late 20th century restoration of Castle Coole. This is an article of connections.
Sympathetic contextual additions; visibly contemporary extensions; dramatic architectural interventions; subtly remodelled wings – they all have their place and supporters. English Poet Laureate and architectural historian Sir John Betjeman once stated, “I have seen many Irish houses, but I know none at once so dignified, so restrained and so original as Townley Hall in County Louth.” More than 230 years after it was finished, such is the strength of Francis Johnson’s design, capturing the spirit of a future age, it still possesses dignity, restraint and originality.
Designed by Francis Johnston for Blaney Balfour in 1794, Townley Hall, Co. Louth, is considered one of his finest works. The home was passed down through the Balfour family over the centuries and finally was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin in 1956. The house is set on a prominent site in parklands which, in 1827, were called by Gardener’s Magazine, “one of the most magnificent demesnes in the kingdom.” In 2003 the owners applied to the Irish Georgian Society for funding to repair the faulty rotunda flashings and the damage caused by water ingress. The Society supplied over €6,435 for these projects.
Brief description of project: The rotunda roof flashings had caused significant damage to the structural ring beam at wall plate level. Not only was the structural integrity of the splendid dome compromised, but original, decorative plaster detailing was affected as well. Thanks in part to the Society’s donations, it was possible to erect a temporary cover which enabled the repair of the roof structure using best practice techniques.
Architectural description: Townley Hall is a two-storey, square building of seven bays. The west elevation has a kitchen which features deep-set windows and Grecian Doric columns. The exterior of the house was completed in a restrained manner with the roof concealed behind a parapet and few decorative effects but for a string course and cornice and a Doric single storey portico to the front. However, the interior is simply but masterfully executed, the main attraction being the central, coffered rotunda and spiral, cantilever staircase. Around the upper level of the rotunda are apses, niches, and arched recesses.
Grants Awarded:
2003: €6,435 from IGS toward faulty rotunda flashing and water damage.
Detached seven-bay two-storey over basement with attic country house, built c. 1800. Tetrastyle Greek Doric portico to east, single-storey three-bay service wing to west. Hipped slate roofs, rolled lead ridge and hips, glass dome to rotunda with replacement copper roof around dome, circular cast-iron downpipes. Tooled limestone ashlar walling, limestone plinth and string courses, denticulated cornice to wall tops east, south and north elevations. Square-headed window openings, limestone sills, painted six-over-six timber sliding sash windows; wrought-iron window guards to basement; three-over-three sliding sash windows to attic west elevation. Greek Doric portico to east, fluted columns, tooled limestone steps and platform, paired engaged fluted columns flanking square-headed door opening, timber five-panel double doors; square-headed door opening to north, painted timber panelled double doors with glass upper panels, painted timber mullioned overlight, concrete bridge to door over basement; round-headed door opening to west, dressed limestone block-and-start surround, painted timber door with glass panels; blocked door openings with Greek Doric columns to west wing. Interior with Portland limestone geometrical-paving to rotunda, stone cantilever staircase, glass dome, stucco centre pieces and cornices, timber panelled shutter boxes and Cuban mahogany doors. Set in own grounds, round pond to east, lawns sloping away to south, outbuildings to north-west.
Appraisal
Designed by Francis Johnston, this monumental Greek Revival house is widely regarded as his masterpiece. Said to have been influenced by the then owner’s, Blayney Townley Balfour, visits to Europe, it displays high-quality stone masonry, particularly to its portico whose Greek Doric entablature is reflected in the denticulated cornice of the house. Situated on an elevated site it is surrounded by sloping lawns and a complex of outhouses to the north-west. The distinguishing feature of Townley Hall is the airy rotunda with its particularly pleasing cantilevered staircase, but more subtle features such as the mahogany doors are also expertly crafted.
643. Townley Hall, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
65no decorative relief anywhere in fact, except a rather mean frame (not executed)
with small engaged Ionic columns around the main door. On the west facade
the cornice is interrupted and the attic windows become visible, while the base-
ment windows too are revealed and look out onto a sunken kitchen yard. The
one-storey kitchen wing, now derelict, extends from the north end of the west
facade into this yard (Plate 2).
The plan (Plate 3) is arranged around a central top-lit domed rotunda which
rises through two storeys from the ground floor and which contains the main
stairs. Rectangular rooms are distributed around this central space. In the attic
storey, rooms are lit by dormer windows behind the cornice, and are entered
from a corridor lit by windows overlooking the dome. Describing the house in
his letter to Brewer in 1820, Johnston referred with characteristic modesty to the
remarkable rotunda—it is “open to and lighted from the top (and) has a good
effect” (Plate 4).
The source for the “singular and impressive austerity”7 of the exterior is to be
found in James Wyatt. In an early drawing for the entrance elevation for
Townley there are specific allusions to Wyatt in the wide tripartite windows of
the end bays. The development towards regularity in the later drawings, the
increased austerity of the facades and the use of Greek Doric columns8 suggest
further that Johnston was following a lead given by Wyatt in his Irish buildings.
That Wyatt’s work should have been influential for an Irish architect of
ability, who was still unknown, and who had received an important country
house commission, was to be expected. Wyatt was the great man who had been
called in from abroad for the prestigious work at Slane and Castle Coole. There
were, however, other reasons why Johnston should have looked to Wyatt, as
he was to do later in his Castle style phase. Johnston had been a protege of
Primate Robinson who had employed Wyatt for the building of Canterbury
Quad in Christ Church, Oxford. Also, since Richard Johnston, a brother of
Francis, had produced designs for Castle Coole in 1789, and with Thomas
Cooley had actually built Newtownmountkennedy House” on Wyatt’s plans,
Francis Johnston must have been intimately familiar with, and much influenced
by, the Attic simplicity of Castle Coole and Newtownmountkennedy House.
The precise source for the plan of Townley Hall, dominated by the central
rotunda, is more difficult to pin down. An obvious parallel can be drawn be-
tween this plan and that of Palladio’s Villa Rotunda without its porticoes, where
the central space has a diameter of thirty Vicentine feet. The diameter of the
Townley stair-well is also thirty feet. Gibbs in his Book of Architecture engraved
the plan of a country house10 which develops this theme by placing a double
branched curving staircase in a centrally placed top-lit space; also, as is clear
7) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 23rd and 30th July, 1948.
8) The portico as built is Greek Doric. It is not clear from the Dublin drawings at what date
the Ionic doorcase was replaced by the Greek Doric portico, but Johnston’s interest in
the primitive orders in the mid 1790’s suggests a date not much later than 1794.
y> John Cornforth on Newtownmountkennedy House, Country Life, October 28th and
November 11th, 1965.
10) J. Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, 1728, Plate 54.
664. Townley Hall, staircase.in St. George’s Church in Dublin, and in the General Post Office, Johnston knew
Gibbs’ book well, and used it as a source of inspiration. With these suggested
points of departure must be mentioned the Irish habit of having spacious,
centrally placed and top-lit bedroom halls.11 Such a bedroom-hall, rising through
two storeys, is found at Castle Coole, where the actual plan owes more to
Richard Johnston than does the elevation. Circular bedroom halls are also found
in both upper floors of Rokeby Hall.
From some such amalgam of influence, prototype and local practice Johnston
evolved this Townley rotunda, this isolated grand gesture in a plan which is
otherwise as rectangular and austere as the elevations.12 It was typical of Johnston
to concentrate in the staircase the single moment of spatial drama in a house.
The staircase seems to have appealed to his interest in support and construc-
tion, as well as interesting him for its dramatic potential as the focal point of a
plan—these two aspects are exploited at Glenmore and Corbalton Hall as well
as at Townley (Plate 21).
In Townley Hall, the severe restraint of the exterior has been brought inside.
The single suggestion of interior columnar interest—a screen of two columns at
each end of the Library—was abandoned. There is little variation in room shape,
no spatial variety as one moves from one room to the next. Where the walls are
modelled, the emphasis lies on gentle, low relief and shallow recesses, rather than
on a rich use of deep niches.13 Apart from the drama of the rotunda there is a
restrained and antirhetorical approach to the planning. Just a year before the
first designs were made for Townley Hall, in 1793, Richard Morrison had pub-
lished his Useful and Ornamental Designs in Architecture. Here Morrison, who
later became a serious contender for some of the more important commissions
eventually given to Johnston,14 had given plans of houses of various pretensions
and scale. The grander houses had internal screens of columns, lobbies ending
in semi-circular apses, circular rooms straight from Gandon’s work on the
Parliament House, with deep niches scooped out from the intervals between
recessed columns. These designs represent the consciousness, on the part of a
contemporary Irish architect, of the Adamesque tradition so firmly rejected by
Johnston.
In some of the details of the decoration, too, there is an economy consistent
with the austerity of elevation and plan. The entrance hall (Plate 5), with its
heavy Greek fret, its Greek Doric chimney piece and the square coffering of the
11) Maurice Craig, Country Life, May 28th 1964 on Bellamont Forest, Co. Cavan.
12) Of this staircase, Hussey {op. cit.) wrote “I would dare to say there is nothing lovelier than
this rotunda in the Georgian architecture of the British Isles.” In comparing this rotunda
with Wyatt’s circular staircase in Devonshire House of 1811, it is tempting to suggest that
the Wyatt-Johnston relationship may have been, to some degree, mutually beneficial.
13) The very shallow recesses in the hall are also a feature of the hall in Garvey House. There
is a plan of Garvey House by Johnston in the I.A.R.A. Coll. PF2.
14) The Knight of Glin has drawn my attention to an interesting comment made in 1822 by
Morrison in a letter to Sir Charles Coote of Ballyfin: ” I beg your permission to observe
that my knowledge of this country and of the buildings executed in it, enables me to know
that with the exception of Mr. Johnston, my son and myself, there is not any architect in it,
in whose hands you could place your business with a prospect of such a result as you
would desire.”
685. Townley Hall, entrance hall.
696. Ballymakenny Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Librj.
707. Kells Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Libr.).
718. Rokeby Hall, entrance elevation.
ceiling, sets a serious tone which is echoed in the Library.15 The decoration of
the rotunda is a little richer, but the traditions of Adam, and of the currently
fashionable Michael Stapleton in Dublin, were rejected. The brittle elegance with
which Johnston had toyed in the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh has vanished,
never again to reappear in his work. The different decorative strains of this
rotunda are used together in an experimental but unsynthesized way. The ox-
head frieze, the criss-cross vaulting, the naturalism of the oak-leaf and acorn
moulding, the gauche draperies and lion heads, the lunettes with their high
relief,16 the wiry simplicity of the running vine band threaded through a simple
fret with acorns underneath—these are all exercises in different themes, com-
bined, but not fused into a very satisfactory whole.17 In this rotunda Johnston
15) The drawing-room ceiling in Townley Hall is remarkably similar to the dining room
ceiling in Castle Coole where economy had dictated a more restrained style than in the
Saloon. (Compare illustrations in Country Life, July 30 1948, Plate 4; and December 26
1936, Plate 8.)
16) Professor Mitchell, the present owner of the house, has pointed out to me that these
lunettes have been enlarged and were probably not made for their present position. They
are not unique in Johnston’s work. They resemble the plaques which decorate the exterior
of his own house in Eccles Street.
17) Many of these motifs appear together in the vault of William Chambers” Strand vestibule
of Somerset House.
729. Lucan House, entrance elevation.
was experimenting with these themes. Some, like the naturalistic oak motifs,
were to become almost inevitable in his interiors; others, like the ox-head frieze,
were never used again.
More important than the experiment with individual motifs was the way in
which he tried to solve the problem of applying ornament to large areas with a
controlled economy, which would give to the most opulent scheme the unosten-
tatious effect consistent with his own taste and personality. Rokeby Hall is
decorated very sparingly; so too is the Armagh Observatory. The only important
interior decorative scheme on which Johnston had worked before Townley Hall
was therefore that of the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh. In the Chapel and in
Townley Hall we see the experiments that within ten years of Townley Hall were
to develop into the maturity and assurance of St. George’s and the Bank (see
Plates 39, 40).
Townley Hall is a key work in Johnston’s career, and it may be used as an
illustration of many characteristics of his style, as seen not only in his classical
country houses but in some of his ecclesiastical and public buildings as well. The
austerity of the Townley elevations was first enunciated at Rokeby Hall. In 1820
in his letter to Brewer, Johnston says that from 1785 to 1794 he was employed
by Primate Robinson in “erecting” a country house and two churches, one at
7310. Rokeby Hall, ground floor plan (Nat. Libr.).
Ballymakenny and the other at Clonmore. It is clear from the context that the
house is Rokeby Hall, and this letter has encouraged the belief that Johnston
alone was responsible for the Hall and the two churches.18
The church at Clonmore is ruined, and can yield no evidence of authorship.
The church at Ballymakenny is more interesting. In the Murray Collection in
the National Library in Dublin, there are four drawings—a plan, a section and
two elevations—for Ballymakenny church as it was built,1″ but without date or
signature (Plate 6). The plan is headed “Plan of Ballymakenny Church.” They
18) John Betjeman, however, in The Pavilion (London, 1946, ed. M. Evans) described Bally-
makenny church as by Johnston but “probably from Coolcy’s designs.”
19) These drawings arc in the I.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2.
7410.—” GROUND-FLOOR PLAN FOR MR. VESEY’S HOUSE
AT LUCAN,” BY MICHAEL STAPLETON
The following notes in Stapledon’s writing have been trans-
cribed from a fainter duplicate :
The dotted lines in plan show the manner of the division of Bed-
chamber story.
The wall that forms the Oval room in parlour story is carried up no
higher than the first story, which leaves an open lobby from great stairs to
the wall at ir the same width as stairs—the light at the end is not very
strong as it is too great a distance from the Venetian window of stairs—a
sky-light would be a vast improvement.
I I. Lucan House, ground floor plan. Country Life.
are catalogued as drawings by Johnston.2″ In the same collection, however
(portfolio 17), there are photographs of drawings for a church at Kells, signed
by Cooley and dated 1778 (Plate 7). Judging from these photographs the drawing
style of the two sets of drawings is the same. Further, there is an almost exact
correspondence between the designs of the two steeples. It seems clear, therefore,
that the drawings for Ballymakenny are by Cooley. Johnston’s reference in 1820
to his share in the work for this church does less than justice to his master,
according to whose designs he completed Ballymakenny Church.
One consequence of the above is that one must question Johnston’s share in
the design of Rokeby Hall, which has always been attributed to him. Since it
would be his first country house, elements in Rokeby which are untypical in his
later work, for instance the engaged order on the facade, must be treated with
caution. The existence in the National Library in Dublin, however, of plans
20) Betjeman, op. cil., wrote of this drawing (Plate 6) “The drawing and design are almost
indistinguishable from the work of Thomas Cooley.”
7512. Farnham House (Lawr. Coll.).
previously unrecognized as plans for Rokeby and which are not by Johnston,21
indicate that architects other than Johnston were involved in the design.
The most interesting of these plans (none of which is signed, or dated and
none of which is in Johnston’s drawing style) is a set of plans unquestionably by
the same hand as a ground plan of Lucan House, Co. Dublin, built between
1773 and 1781 for Agmondisham Vesey.22 This plan is of unknown authorship,
but it has been suggested23 that itwas drawn by Michael Stapleton. The common
authorship of these plans suggests a comparison of the elevations of the two
houses.
The front elevations (Plates 8,9) share such features as a 2-3-2 window rhythm,
unmoulded openings in the first floor with a common sill threaded behind the
order, and an Ionic order, supporting a pediment, rising in the slightly projecting
centre block over the ground floor.
There are important differences, but they are all consistent differences between
the richly modelled and the flat. The high central block of Lucan, with its tall
engaged columns, was lowered at Rokeby; the columns became pilasters,
ground floor rustication was lowered to the basement, and the deep recesses of
the central ground floor were flattened out. Similar differences exist between the
plans (Plates 10, 11)—the niches of the hall at Lucan, otherwise similar to the
hall at Rokeby, were filled in; the oval projection on the rear elevation of Lucan
was also flattened out.
21) These drawings are in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 20.
22) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 31st January 1947; John Harris, Quarterly Bulletin of
the Irish Georgian Society, July-September 1965.
23) Catalogue of the l.A.D. Exhibition, 1965, No. 44.
7613. Cornmarket, Drogheda.
Now if an architect other than Johnston was responsible for the original
designs of Rokeby Hall, that architect would be Thomas Cooley, the architect
of Primate Robinson, for whom the house was built. This raises a slight prob-
lem, since among the multiplicity of architects whose names are connected with
Lucan House—Chambers, Stapleton, Stevens, Wyatt and Agmondisham Vesey
himself—the name of Cooley does not appear. At this point it is necessary to
mention Newtownmountkennedy House.24 Briefly, its plan is closely connected
with that of Lucan House; it was designed by James Wyatt in 1772; and it was
built by Cooley and Richard Johnston, a brother of Francis, around 1782.
Therefore it may be suggested that Rokeby Hall was far from being an original
idea of Johnston’s, and that original plans were made by Cooley (and possibly
by others).25 The plans of the ground floor and first floor are adaptations from
Wyatt’s plans for Newtownmountkennedy and from the related plan of Lucan
House. Johnston did “erect” Rokeby, as he said, but few details of the plan
can be his. The scheme for the entrance elevation, too, .he probably inherited,
but treated it with a feeling which was reaching towards the simplification
of Townley Hall. The entrance elevation of Rokeby Hall is, in fact, a neat
24) John Cornforth, Country Life, October 28th and November 11th, 1965.
25) A collection of drawings by Cooley which may throw light on this question has just
recently come to light. The drawings are in Caledon Castle, Co. Tyrone.
7714. Headfort House, suggested alterations for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
illustration of what an architect, tied to the basic scheme of Lucan House
and developing towards Townley Hall, might be expected to produce.26
The severity of exterior elevation which, inspired by Wyatt, began to emerge
at Rokeby and which received its definitive statement at Townley, is character-
istic of Johnston’s classical domestic work. The additions to Farnham House27
are varied in the ground floor (Plate 12) with semi-circular headed windows like
in the kitchen wing at Townley. The severity is relieved sometimes by tripartite
windows, as at Corbalton Hall,28 and sometimes by a doorway with a small
columnar frame as at Clown.2″ On the whole, however, these smaller classical
houses present a rather dull picture, and some, without the happy proportions
of Rokeby and Townley, anticipate Johnston’s later “penitentiary” style. Often
close at hand in his work is the “hardness” described by Craig/10 The dividing
line between Attic simplicity and this hardness was not always under control,
even in Charleville Forest, the most picturesque composition of this least pictur-
esque of architects. There, on the facades, between the corner towers, the relent-
less symmetry of Johnston establishes its claim over the picturesque demands of
his patron. The regular rectangular windows glare out from a facade which
‘shares the bleakness of Johnston’s classical houses, of his penitentiaries and even
of his General Post Office (Plate 24).
In the work of such a man we would expect to find, around the turn of the
century, a ready adoption of the appropriately austere forms of the Greek
Revival. And so it was, but to a limited degree. It is difficult to date accurately
26) Dr. Alastair Rowan has suggested to me that a consideration of the authorship of Rokeby
Hall might include a consideration of Ihe house and gate lodge of Annesbrooke, Duleek,
where several Johnston-like details can be seen.
27) Co. Cavan. Drawings for these additions, which were largely demolished in 1963, are in
the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802.
28) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Elias Corbally. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801-1807.
29) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Waller Dowdall. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
30) Maurice Craig, Dublin 1660-1860, p. 281.
78i. Kildare, suggested east elevation by Francis Johnston
the Greek Doric portico of Townley Hall—it appears in none of the dated
elevations31 in Dublin. It is unlikely to be much later than 1794, however, be-
cause during the years that Johnston was working at Townley, that is in the later
1790’s, he began to develop an interest in primitive orders and their suitability
to his evolving style of domestic architecture. In the hall in Slane Castle,:!2 for
instance, the columns are baseless, but have Tuscan capitals with an enriched
necking band. The real interest in the Slane hall is in the chimney pieces, where
baseless Greek Doric columns support an entablature where the frieze zone is
omitted, but with the guttae of the missing triglyphs remaining in the architrave.33
The Townley Hall work includes, besides the portico, Greek Doric columns in
the hall chimney piece, and columns of a Primitivist order on the kitchen wing
(Plate 2). After Townley Hall comes the set of porticoes designed for Farnham
House, Ballycurry House,34 and the Adjutant General’s Office.30 These porticoes
are all one-storey high with Doric columns, sometimes fluted, sometimes not. At
Corbalton Hall the portico is also one-storey high, but unusual in Johnston’s
domestic work36 in being Ionic. The columns are baseless. So we see, that despite
his interest in the Greek Revival, as witnessed in the precocious use of a Greek
31) Only one drawing in the I.A.R.A. Coll. shows Townley Hall with this Greek Doric
portico. It is an undated and unsigned drawing in PF 2.
32) Johnston’s work on Slane Castle was contemporary with his work on Townley Hall.
33) This order corresponds, detail for detail, with the order of the loggia surrounding three
sides of the Corn market in Drogheda (Plate 13) (behind the Market House, now the Court
House), where, however, the columns are unfluted. This market complex was built by
Johnston, and the conjectural date suggested by Betjeman (in The Pavilion), is 1788. The
building certainly looks later, and because of the similarity with the Slane chimneypieces,
a more likely date would be in the mid ’90’s. On this order. Dr. Maurice Craig has sug-
gested to me that it resembles a bit “the primitive style of Gandon as seen at Carriglass
and in some Gandon drawings in the Lowther Castle collection now in Carlisle.”
34) In Co. Wicklow. Rebuilding of an old house, for Charles Tottenham. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., Nat. Libr., PF 5, signed and dated 1805-1806.
35) In the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. Though a military structure, it is built
entirely in the style of a modest private house. It dates from c. 1805.
36) We can exclude the two-storey high Ionic portico added by Johnston to the Vice Regal
Lodge in Dublin, a building by its nature more public than private.
7915a. Killeen Castle, unexecuted plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.)
Doric portico at Townley Hall around 1794, and his later preoccupation with
the forms of the Greek Doric capital in his public work (see below), his adoption
of the forms of the Revival was quiet, unostentatious, and never monumental.
The Revival, of which he was an early exponent, became fully established during
his life, but the more established it became, the less Johnston used it in a con-
ventional way, and the more it became for him a style of allusion.
In another sphere of domestic building this quiet and scholarly interest in the
primitive orders can be seen at work. In 1799, when he first drew up plans for
alterations to the house of St. Catherine’s in Leixlip, Co. Kildare,37 he also made
a drawing38 for a dairy, with columns in a rustic order, covered in bark. The
following directions accompany the drawing:
“
. . . the plinths on which they (i.e. the columns) stand to be of stone, and
the Caps of Wood. The Entablature to be finished (in appearance) from the
hatchet, and coloured to match the bark of the pillars.”
Later, in 1802, he made a “sketch for dividing and finishing the Wood Cottage
at St. Catherine’s.”311 Here his primitivismwent a stage further—the roof was to
37) Described in the catalogue of the Murray Collection as “now demolished (built) for Mr.
Latouche.” The house still stands. As was pointed out by Dr. Alistair Rowan in his thesis
on the castle style (in the University Library, Cambridge) Johnston’s gothicmng altera-
tions were not built.
38) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder No. 5.
39) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder, No. 10.
8016. Killeen Castle, design for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
be supported by tree trunks without plinths or capitals, across which lay a simple
wooden board acting as architrave. Beyond this, primitivism could not go.40
As was appropriate for a disciple of Wyatt, Francis Johnston built in the
Castle Style. His activity in this style was quite intense in the first five years of
the nineteenth century, and falls quite naturally into three main groups. Firstly
there are commissions, where his brief was to gothicize and castellate an existing
classical house without making major structural additions. Secondly there were
commissions for considerable alterations and additions to classical houses—and
sometimes to genuine mediaeval structures. Finally there was the single com-
mission for Charleville Forest, a new scheme to be built from the ground up.
Johnston received only one such commission41 but its influence on later castle
style building in Ireland was greater than that of any other of his works in
this style.
In the first category there are only two projects—St. Catherine’s and Headfort
House at Kells, Co. Meath. Neither project was executed. At Headfort (Plate 14),
40) At least one later use of the rustic order by Johnston is known. In the I.A.D. exhibition
1965, the catalogue illustrated a plan and elevation for a seat at the Spa Well, Phoenix
Park—a tetrastyle temple in a rustic order. The drawing, in the possession of Mrs.
Desmond Forde, is signed and dated 1810.
41) It is not quite correct, as has been done elsewhere, to regard Glenmore, Co. Wicklow, as a
fresh commission. Drawings in the l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 make specific reference to the
original fabric which was to be included in the new, much larger, scheme.
8118. Markrcc Castle, view of south-east elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
for which drawings dated 1802 are in the National Library,42 Johnston provided
a rigidly symmetrical solution. Irish battlements enliven the roofline; chimney
stacks have been turned into turrets; and over the centre of the house rises an
Inverary motif; towers have been added to the corners of the house. Gothic
formulae—labels, shallow pointed arches—have been applied to the windows,
but Johnston’s Headfort stubbornly remains a large classical country house that
has been prettified in a castle style.
At St. Catherine’s the following year Johnston suggested a genuinely prettier
solution.43 Again, gothic formulae were applied, but even less substantial addi-
tions were proposed than in Headfort. An elegant gateway joining the house to
a little chapel to the north gives the east front of the design (Plate 15) as drawn,
an attractive asymmetry. However, in the other elevations—the main entrance
elevation and the long southern elevation overlooking the Liffey—Johnston
made insistent demands on regularity and symmetry. On the southern facade
these are disturbed by the projection from the side elevation of the oval bay.44
The regularity of the window levels is disturbed by the lancets in the “towers,”
but again Johnston let St. Catherine’s remain clearly a classical house, altered
in a very routine and insubstantial way.
42) l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3.
43) As well as drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2. there are two elevations in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 16.
44) This is a recurring feature of Johnston’s designs that the symmetry of complete facades
is perfect, if we ignore what may project slightly from other facades. It appears at Killeen,
Glenmore and Markree as well as at St. Catherine’s. It is a relaxed symmetry, as distinct
from a more abstract type which might apply to the plan considered as a whole.
8319. Slane Castle, proposed elevation by James Gandon (Nat. Libr.).
The major works in the second category are on Killeen Castle,45 Markree,46
and Glenmore.47 Johnston’s early, unexecuted designs for Killeen are interest-
ing. There is a freedom and an informality of plan (Plate 15a) which appears
elsewhere in his work; the attempt not simply to preserve the symmetry of the
exterior but to introduce a symmetry which the original mediaeval castle never
possessed is also typical. But the deep niches of the Library come as a surprise,
and the informality of plan is brought to far greater degrees than anywhere
else. Johnston liked a freedom in plan and he liked the large sweep of ample
curves to play a part in the plan—one thinks of the half elliptical bedrooms of
Corbalton Hall and of Markree; but the play with irregular room shapes, with
circles, with ten sided figures and even with piano-shaped rooms is parallelled
nowhere else in his work. These designs were not executed.
The design as built exploits the projections of the original facade, but only
slightly (Plate 16). The chances these projections provided for varying the skyline
45) Co. Meath; for Lord Fingall; Drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802
and alternative designs in 1803-4. Later enlarged by Shiel.
46) Or Mercury Castle, Co. Sligo, for Joshua Edward Cooper; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 3, signed and dated 1802-4.
47) Co. Wicklow; for Francis Synge; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 and PF 14. Now
in ruins.
8420. Glenmore Castle, Co. Wicklow, design for south-east elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
in a picturesque way were ignored. Johnston started out here in Killeen with
an original mediaeval castle and finished with a structure that almost looks as
if it could be a cleverly gothicized classical house. The Romance of the castle
was killed. The logical, serious, painstaking Johnston had no control over the
powerful association of ideas, so important in the appreciation of the castle style.
At Markree, Johnston built large additions in the castle style to an originally
classical house (Plate 17). The long south-east front (Plate 18) repeats the basic
scheme of Slane Castle, but the Slane as designed by James Gandon (Plate 19)
rather than by Wyatt. The long facade is organised just as at Slane, but it has
been flattened out, with the central semicircular tower replaced by a more gentle
and a shallower curve. The pointed arches of the ground floor of the central
tower18 echo Slane, and the circular openings below echo an alternative design
by Gandon for Slane.40 The skyline, though enlivened with Irish battlements,
has been made more even than in Slane and this, together with the flattening
of the facade and the discontinuity of floor levels and windows, makes of this
main elevation of Markree a much less powerfully massed whole than Gandon’s
scheme. Markree, of course, lacks the dramatic situation of Slane overlooking
a sharp fall of ground, sweeping down to the Boyne; but essentially it was
Johnston’s treatment of the theme,50 with his reluctance to use pronounced
vertical or horizontal projections, which denied Markree the drama of Gandon’s
design.
48) Johnston’s original design was for three pointed arches in the ground floor of the central
“tower”; only the middle opening was built arched.
49) Illustrated in catalogue of I.A.D. exhibition 1965, No. 68; drawing in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 2. These openings were built square, at Markree.
50) The relationships between Markree and Slane Castle, and between RokebyHall and Lucan
House, have some features in common. In both cases Johnston’s houses are more static,
less richly modelled than the earlier buildings.
8522. Charleville Castle, Co. Offaly. Country Life,
The relentless symmetry of the separate elevations of Glenmore (Plates 20,
21), the shallow projections—this time in the form of canted bays as in the
parlour at Killeen, the narrow corner towers as at Headfort, the central accent
enlivened with Irish battlements as at Markree, and the classical proportions
of solid to vofd in the flat intermediate wings, all these can be seen as predictable
in a Johnston castle. The refusal at Markree to fuse the potentially powerful
forms into a forcefully massed composition became, at Glenmore, a failure to
synthesise the masses into satisfying elevations: the south-east front of Glenmore
can be seen as an inverted Markree-Slane theme, with a polygonal projection
of three bays in the centre of the facade separated by flat intermediate wings of
three bays from circular corner towers. The corner towers and central motif rise
up above the level of the neighbouring bays but this variation of level is com-
promised by the intervening chimney stacks. The interiors at Glenmore were
classical, and the broad sweep of the curved staircases of Townley Hall and
Corbalton Hall was repeated. Otherwise the plan is uneventful and informal and,
like the elevations, a little dull. The bleakness which Johnston chose to impart
to the elevations he imparted even to the surrounding landscape in this drawing.
He was not fair to the country-side around the Devil’s Glen: looking at the
house, one feels that he may not have been entirely fair to Francis Synge either.
At first sight Charleville Forest, built for the Earl of Charleville from 1801
onwards,51 is spectacularly different from Johnston’s other castle style houses.
The entrance elevation (Plates 22, 23) shows a very marked asymmetry. The
roofline develops the Inverary tower motif suggested for Headfort House, while
the round north-east corner tower, a little self-consciously, makes a determined
bid for irregularity. The main block of the house is nearly square in plan, with
a tower at each corner—square towers at the corners of the rear elevation, and
on the entrance front a broad circular tower on the left corner, and on the right
51) Drawings for Charleville Forest are in the l.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
See Mark Girouard, Country Life, 27 September 1962.
a 723. Charleville Castle, view of entrance elevation. Country Life.
an octagonal one. From this octagonal tower runs out a lower range of buildings
—chapel, kitchens, offices—on a diagonal axis. “Ore-like in its sprawl, the char-
acter of the house was forbidding, even cruel; and in Irish architecture this was
entirely new.”62
A letter from Lady Louisa Conolly to Lady Charleville dated November 8,
1800,53 mentions the very considerable part which the patron played in the
design of this castle. Her statement, however, that he had “planned it all him-
self” is unlikely to refer to the castle as built. Johnston’s drawings date from the
following year, and throughout the building can be seen Johnston’s attempts to
assert himself over Charleville’s demands which were basically foreign to his
nature as an architect. The buildings beyond the chapel on the diagonal wing—
the offices—are quite symmetrical. The elevations of the main block (apart from
the entrance front) are, apart from the corner towers, as symmetrical, regular
52) Rowan, op.cit.
53) This letter is quoted in Girouard, op.cit. “1 am very glad to hear that you have begun
your Castle . . . and Lord Tullamoore I am sure will enjoy it much having planned it all
himself.
K
8824. Charleville Castle, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr).
and austere as any elevation of Townley (Plate 24). Even with the corner towers,
the rear elevation is entirely symmetrical.
Inside, the details of plumbing, joinery and decoration are entirely Johns-
tonian. Water which is collected from the roof is piped to lavatories; there are
open fan shapes in the window reveals,54 gently convex chimney breasts,°5 crisply
carved oak leaves and acorns on the chimneypieces, plaster vaulting in the pas-
sages leading from the centrally placed bedroom hall which rises through the
first and second storeys and is top-lit by a dome in the Inverary tower. The
fan-vaulting in the great Gallery anticipates the vaulting of the aisles of the
Chapel Royal. The design for the chimneypiece in this Gallery is taken from a
door in Magdalen College.50 Further, the plaster moulding on the ribs of the
small first floor room in the large circular tower reappears in the vaults of the
Board Room and Governor’s Room in the Bank of Ireland.
That many of the decorative details in Charleville should reappear in the
Bank, in the Chapel Royal or in St. George’s is not surprising since these works
54) Dr. Maurice Craig has pointed out that these characteristic fan shapes occur in Kilcarty
by Thomas Ivory.
55) As in Armagh Observatory.
56) This was pointed cut by Girouard, op.cit.
8925. Primate’s Chapel, Armagh, design for interior of west end, by Thomas Cooley (Nat.
Libr,).
90for interior of west end, by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
91Primate”s Chapel, view of west end.
are roughly contemporary with Charleville.67 But the fact that some such details
can be shared by buildings as stylistically varied as these is more noteworthy.
This property of versatility was pointed out by Dr. Maurice Craig.68 The crisp
naturalism of the oak leaf mouldings in St. George’s or Townley Hall is entirely
in keeping with the moods of the Dublin church and of the Louth mansion. Yet
it attains a new appropriateness in Charleville Forest, not only to the Gothic
character of the house, but to the site of the ancient oak forests of Offaly on
which the house stands.
Part of the significance of Johnston’s castle style houses lay in the fact that
all of them, except Glenmore, had fully Gothic interiors. As with the Greek
Revival, it was not Johnston who initiated the fashion in Ireland, but it was he
who helped to popularize the style. Alistair Rowan has shown the importance
of Wyatt’s Library in Slane Castle for this development of the idea of a Gothic
domestic interior.50 fn Slane we can see, not only the origin of the idea, but,
I believe, the specific source for many of Johnston’s decorative motifs. The
abundance of plaster heads in Slane immediately recalls the Chapel Royal and
Killeen Castle. Further, the low dado, the oak leaf and acorn mouldings, and
57) Charleville, begun in 1801, was not finished until 1812.
58) M. Craig, op.cit., p. 282.
59) Rowan, op.cit., p. 238.
9228. Primate’s Chapel, view of east end of ceiling.
the kind of bubbling-seaweed carving all lead back to indicate another aspect
of the profound influence of James Wyatt on Johnston, and through him on
Irish architecture.
Johnston’s castle style phase was short.60 Ironically, the most successful and
influential building of this period—Charleville—was the one where his person-
ality, though evident, was obscured by the demands of the owner, demands
which Johnston could not have been happy to satisfy. The romance of the castle
style was foreign to his cautious nature, and it was the last experiment he made
in domestic architecture. His abandonment of the style when work on Pakenham
Hall finished in 1810 reflects not so much a rejection of a style which he realized
as unsuitable, but rather a slackening in the domestic side of his practice. For
in 1805 he had been appointed Architect of the Board of Works and Civil
Buildings, and the bulk of his work was to be centred in Dublin from that date,
until his architectural activity began to decline with the rise of the General Post
Office, sometime before 1820.
60) In 1806 he made alterations to Pakenham Hall (now known as Tullynally House), Co.
Westmeath, for the Earl of Longford. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 6. Later additions
are by James Shiel and Richard Morrison. In 1814 he suggested additions and castellations
to Kilruddery House, Co. Wicklow, for the Earl of Meath. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 6. These suggestions were not adopted, and are of interest only as extreme instances of
how far Johnston sometimes went in the search for symmetry. In PF 19 there are plans by
Johnston and Murray for unimportant extensions to Howth Castle, in 1825.
9329. Primate’s Chapel, pilaster capital.
2. CHURCH ARCHITECTURE
When Francis Johnston succeeded Cooley in 1784 as architect to Primate
Robinson, his first task was to complete the buildings which Cooley had begun
and left unfinished at his death. He erected the tower and spire over the crossing
of the Cathedral in Armagh and an obelisk on Knox’s Hill in the grounds of the
Primate’s Palace. He also decorated the interior of the Primate’s Chapel, a little
temple by Cooley with a tetrastyle Ionic portico standing beside the Palace.
Some very fine stone details on the exterior of this Chapel, reflected in the very
high quality of the stone details in Cooley’s Royal Exchange in Dublin, suggest
that one of Johnston’s important debts to Cooley was a careful and meticulous
attention to stonework.
As can be seen from Cooley’s designs for the interior (Plate 25), Johnston was
tactful in his approach and mindful of Cooley’s original intentions. There is a
drawing1 in the National Library, signed by Johnston, and dated 1785 (Plate 26),
which shows the interior of the chapel largely as it exists today (Plate 27). It is
a superbly executed drawing,2 and its phenomenal minuteness of detail shows
1) This drawing is in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, Armagh Palace folder, No. 4.
2) It must, however, be admitted that the light falls from the left. The only windows in the
drawing are on the right. This photograph conveys none of the remarkably detailed quality
of the drawing.
9430. St. Peter’s Church, Drogheda, view of steeple (Lawr. Coll.)
9531. Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle, view of north elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
the exacting standards of the architect who demanded, and obtained, similar
standards from his craftsmen. Structural changes from Cooley’s design are few.
The windows have been changed from the left wall to the right, the gallery has
been given a curved rear wall and the entablature is carried in Johnston’s design
continuously over the gallery. Panelling has been added to the walls which thus
become clearly divided into zones—the zone of pews, and raised above this, the
zone articulated with pilasters.3 The gallery balusters have become attenuated
and graceful. Draperies, always a favourite with Johnston, decorate the gallery.
The ceiling has become coffered, with rosettes in the coffers; and a delicate frieze
which almost looks as if it might have been designed by Michael Stapleton,
surrounds the whole room (Plate 28).
The chapel interiors show two decorative strains. On the one hand is the effete
and rather standard frieze, and the equally routine formalism of the capitals
(Plate 29). On the other hand is the rectangular sobriety of the ceiling (Plate 28),
with the petals of its rosettes curling up at the ends according to vegetable laws
rather than the laws of plaster. For the first strain, Johnston had no time. He
was more interested in experiment than in formula. He rarely used enriched
friezes and in the General Post Office, when he decorated the frieze over the
portico, he turned the traditional anthemion frieze into a knotted, rather wild
and muscular affair. His real interest lay in the development of the second strain,
and in the use of a crisp naturalism, sparingly used, and circumscribed by hard
3) This division of the walls into zones, with the pilasters rising from above the seated com-
munity, can be seen as the Bank Cash Office scheme in embryo.
9632. Chapel Royal, view of east end.
9733. St. Andrew’s Church, Dublin, plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
geometrical shapes. In the rotunda of Townley, there is the formula of the
ox-head frieze; but there are the oak leaf garlands bent into semi-ellipses, and
there is the vine running through a primitive Greek fret. In many ways, the
Townley rotunda is more experimental than the Primate’s Chapel, but both look
forward to the full resolution of his style in the early years of the nineteenth
century.
Johnston’s supervision of work originally designed by Cooley at Ballyma-
kenny Church has already been mentioned, and a close dependence on Cooley’s
style is evident later in Johnston’s work on the steeples at Slane in 1797; St.
Andrew’s, Dublin and St. Catherine’s, Tullamore. Johnston’s activity in de-
signing steeples for churches4 is probably an expression of his own interest in
bell-ringing. (To house his own collection of bells, he built a tower, now demol-
ished, behind his house in Dublin.) In the Public Library at Armagh there is an
interesting collection of drawings by Cooley, dated 1773 and 1774, for churches.
No specific parishes or locations for these churches are mentioned, and it appears
4) John Betjeman, in The Pavilion, lists as a “doubtful attribution” to Johnston the spire of
Lismore Cathedral. The Dean of Lismore, Very Rev. Gilbert Mayes, M.A., has pointed
out to me, however, that the spire was the work of the brothers Paine of Cork, in 1827/8.
The Paines were pupils of Nash, and enjoyed a considerable practice in the south of
Ireland.
9834. St. George’s Church, Dublin, view from Temple Street.
9935. St. George’s Church, view from Eccles Street.
that the collection of designs was made as a sample book, with no particular
commissions in mind. The plans, like those of the churches of Ballymakenny
and Clonmore, are plain, rectangular, with towers on the west ends. The eleva-
tions of these towers, some with spires, others without, consist largely of assem-
blies of standard elements in different combinations—pointed windows, labels,
rectangular openings with almond-shaped windows, circular elements, coats of
arms, corner buttresses ending in pinnacles, battlements. This dull and un-
imaginative method of combining standard motifs in such a way appears often
in Johnston’s steeples, even in the very important steeple of St. Andrew’s in
Dublin. From one who had looked at the Gothic of the English cathedrals, and
from one capable of the refined elegance of the St. George’s steeple, more might
have been expected than a routine reliance on Cooley’s rather impoverished style.
The steeple of St. Peter’s church in Drogheda (Plate 30), of about 1790 is
slightly exceptional, in being more experimental than his other designs. Here he
10036. St. George’s Church, ground plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
10137. St. George’s Church, view under gallery.
put a spire on a tower whose details are classical rather than Gothic. The small
deep semicircular openings repeat a theme of one of the lower storeys of the
tower of the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital in Dublin. The circular element with
side brackets supporting a pediment comes from Gibbs° as, perhaps, do the per-
forations in the spire. The base of the spire itself recalls the base of the spire of
the church at Hillsborough, Co. Down,6 a favourite haunt of Johnston because
of his interest in bell-ringing.
Many of Johnston’s churches have fared badly down through the years.
Clonmore is ruined. The church at Arklow, and the Roman Catholic churches
at Kells and at Drogheda have been demolished. His designs for the church at
Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath, were altered, and a cheaper church built. His
work in St. Andrew’s in Dublin, burnt in the middle of the nineteenth century,
is the most tragic loss; but his two other masterpieces, the Chapel Royal in
Dublin Castle and St. George’s, not only stand but are, happily, immaculately
preserved.
5) Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, e.g. Plate 23.
6) Alistair Rowan, op.cit., p. 93, suggests that this “very fine example of Georgian Gothic
. . . unique in Ireland” may be by Sanderson Miller.
10238. St. George’s Church, view of west end.
The foundation stone of the Chapel Royal7 was laid by the Lord Lieutenant
on 15 February, 1807, and the chapel was opened on Christmas Day, 1814.8 The
exterior of the building (Plate 31) is restrained and not unlike part of the side
elevation of Magdalen College viewed from the Quad, if the projecting lower
storey—in fact part of the Quad cloister—is projected back onto the flat side
facade of the chapel. The stone used is a dark limestone and the dimensions of
the plan were confined to those of the original chapel. The plan is basically
rectangular—inside, the chancel projects beyond the ends of the aisles, between
offices and sacristies which on the outside can be seen, in fact, to protrude beyond
the east end of the chancel. The long side elevations are each divided into six
bays by buttresses ending in pinnacles. Each bay is of two storeys over a base-
ment, with tall windows above lighting the galleries.9 On the pinnacles and under
the labels of the windows are heads sculpted in stone, not out of keeping with
the Gothic character of the whole. There is a suggestion, however, of something
7) The chapel was re-consecrated in 1943 as a Catholic Church dedicated to the Most Holy
Trinity.
8) Johnston’s own description of the Chapel Royal was printed by Patrick Henchy in the
Dublin Historical Record, December 1949-February 1950.
9) The tracery in these windows strongly resembles that of the Magdelen Chapel windows.
103St, George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
unexpected about to happen in the large full-blooded heads of St. Peter over the
north door, of Brian Boru10 over the east door, and in the three-quarter length
figures of Faith, Hope and Charity over the east window.11 The whole effect of
the grey severity of the exterior, however, does not prepare one for the exuber-
ance inside. The entrance to the church is from a low, narrow vestibule on the
west, above which is an upper vestibule opening into the gallery. No grander
approach from the west could easily have been planned, since the space was
limited by the proximity of the Record Tower.12
The interior measures 73 feet by 35 feet, and is divided, despite its narrow-
ness, into a nave and side aisles (Plate 32). The aisles contain a gallery which
continues around the west end where it holds an organ. The ceiling of the nave
is groin vaulted, and over the gallery the ceilings of the aisles have a rich fan
10) Brian Boru was the first High King of Ireland. He died in 1014.
11) All the exterior figure carving, and the plaster figures inside, are by Edward Smyth and
his son John. The stucco ceilings inside are by George, the son of Michael Stapleton, who
decorated Belvedere House. Michael Stapleton died in 1801 and should not be confused—
as sometimes happens—with his son whose style in stucco, seen in the Chapel Royal
(and probably in the somewhat similar Killeen Castle) is totally different.
12) Towards the end of his work on the chapel, Johnston recased the upper storeys of the
Record Tower, and added battlements. For engravings of this work, and his lay-out of the
interiors see the Reports from the Commissioners . . . respecting the Public Records of
Ireland 1810-1815.
10440. St. George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
vaulting with pendants, as if the ceiling of the Charleville Gallery had been con-
tracted and squeezed into the confined narrowness of the galleries here. The
ceilings under the galleries are laid out in tracery, whose lines agree with the
lines of the fan vaulting of the upper ceilings, but projected onto a flat ground.
The pendants are more compressed, and their terminations are decorated with
cherubs’ heads.
The general effect of this interior is one of pomp and richness, a richness of
both colour and form. The pale plasterwork enriched with gold, and the darkness
of the richly carved oak meet in a light softened by coloured glass. Plaster mould-
ings rise in a frothy spray in ogee shapes over the pointed arches of the nave.
Everywhere are plaster corbel heads of kings, evangelists and saints. The glass
panels of the side windows are filled with the arms of Viceroys. The wooden
gallery fronts, too, carry arms, as does the panelling of the chancel; and below
these arms, running all around the galleries, is a carved wooden band of “bub-
bling seaweed” pattern which appears in the gallery of Charleville. The consist-
ency of the decorative scheme is carefully planned—the heraldry in glass and
wood, the heads in carved wood and plaster, and the foliage in glass and plaster
and wood—these themes culminated in the pulpit, originally placed high in the
centre of the east end, raising the preacher to the level of the gallery where the
10541. Daly’s Club House and Parliament House, from the engraving by R. Havell, after
T. S. Roberts, c. 1815 (National Gallery of Ireland).
pew of the archbishop faced that of the Lord Lieutenant.13 The pulpit was central
to the decorative programme of the whole chapel. On it, the carver, Richard
Stewart, combined episcopal arms with naturalistically carved foliage, and set it
on a shaft terminating in a cluster of four heads,14 a clear allusion to the clustered
cherubs’ heads on the pendants below the galleries. But here, the heads are those
of the four evangelists and thus the pulpit—placed in the chancel over which
rises a vault whose ribs spring at each corner from the head of an evangelist—
acted as a focal point of the chapel, and with a thoughtful allusiveness perfected
the consistency of the whole scheme. It is a pity to see here, and in St. George’s,
such thoughtfulness frustrated.
This consistency must be seen underlying the apparently undisciplined frivolity
of the Chapel Royal, when we attempt to place this interior in Johnston’s other-
wise more controlled decorative work. It is also important to acknowledge that,
unlikely though it may seem, Johnston in the Chapel Royal was trying to be
authentically Gothic. Firstly, it appears from the diary he kept of his English
tour in 1796,15 that the qualities he admired most in Gothic architecture were its
lightness and elegance rather than its structural expressiveness. At Gloucester
Cathedral, he admired
“the lightness and true proportion of the Buttresses, the neatness of the belt
courses and elegance of the Gothic screen and pinnacles of the Tower. . . .
“
13) The pulpit has been moved to St. Werburgh’s Church, Dublin.
14) The pulpit is illustrated in H. Wheeler and M. Craig, The Dublin Citv Churches of the
Church of Ireland, Dublin 1948, Plate XVII.
15) The dfery is now in the Armagh County Museum.
106Salisbury was looked at in the same way—he admired the “height, lightness and
elegance of execution” of the Cathedral Tower. The Cathedral itself “is a beauti-
ful light gothick structure with a just uniformity of style in every part.” These
are the only characteristics of Gothic which he mentions.16 He could hardly have
been unaware of the structural expressiveness of Gothic, but his non-Gothic
work shows a repeated avoidance of becoming explicit about actual means of
support for such things as stairs and galleries. He was clearly therefore unlikely
to feel at home with anything but the decorative details of Gothic.
It seems then that he sought to achieve a Gothic effect by the multiplication
of such details as he considered “correct”. His friend Brewer,17 spoke of the basic
seriousness of Johnston’s efforts in the Chapel Royal in describing it as “the
most elaborate effort made in recent years to revive the antient ecclesiastical
style of building.” He went on to say that
“
. . . The plans of the groined ceiling, and of various parts in the detail . . .
are derived from the most highly ornamented divisions of York Cathedral.”
This seriousness of Johnston’s intentions is further confirmed by early com-
mentators on the Gothic Revival. Thomas Bell18 rather surprisingly wrote in 1828
“The revival of this taste in Ireland has been accomplished, or at least the
correct ideas of it which now prevail in this country, have been principally
introduced . . . (by) the architect of the Castle chapel.”19
Whatever we may think of the “correctness” of Johnston’s Chapel Royal, it
seems that he wished it to be correct and authentic. It fails to be this, but re-
mains, with its plaster ceilings, its Virtues reclining in billowing drapery over the
east window, and its display of heraldry, the most intimate of his interiors, and
precious evidence of the kind of surroundings in which the Viceregal Court felt
itself closest to God.
Somewhat similar to the Chapel Royal but much less elaborate was Johnston’s
chapel of the Foundling Hospital20 described in 181821 as “lately finished.” The
same source mentions both its “uncommon elegance” and bad acoustics.22 Other
Gothic churches such as the church at Kells and St. Peter’s Roman Catholic
church in Drogheda, both demolished, were of minor importance. St. Catherine’s
in Tullamore, completed in 1815, was slightly more ambitious. The florid Chapel
Royal style was not appropriate for this* country church, so superbly sited on a
hill overlooking the town. The interior, with its Latin cross plan, its nave with
clerestory, and side aisles is plain and a little dull. For the tower Johnston fell
back on the standard Cooley-inspired solution, and one is inclined to think that,
16) In London on 10th April, he wrote that he went to Westminster Abbey “which was
open” (!) “took a glance at the monuments and thence to Westminster bridge which
I looked at for some time.”
17) J. N. Brewer, Beauties of Ireland 1825-6, vol. 1, p. 63.
18) Thomas Bell, Gothic Architecture in Ireland, 1828, p. 249.
19) Perhaps not unnaturally, Johnston wrote to Thomas Mulvany on 25th February, 1828 that
he was assured of the fidelity and accuracy of Bell’s work. The letter is quoted by Bell,
p. 256.
20) The Foundling Hospital is now St. Kevin’s Hospital: the chapel has been demolished.
21) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, History of Dublin, 1818, p. 585.
22) Direct influence of Johnston’s Chapel Royal was seen in William Farrell’s closely similar
Chapel of the Female Orphan House, built in 1818-19. This has been recently demolished.
10742. Armagh Observatory, view of entrance elevation.
on the whole, St. Catherine’s is a reflection of Johnston’s loss of interest in
provincial commissions (apart from country houses) after his move to Dublin.
The major loss in Johnston’s ecclesiastical architecture was the destruction by
fire in 1860 of St. Andrew’s church in Dublin. In May 1793, a committee was
appointed to carry out rebuilding of the church, which had become ruinous.23
The architect was a John Hartwell, and it was found possible to use part of the
original walls in the new structure, thus preserving the unusual elliptical plan.
The church was used by the Members of the adjoining Parliament House, and
in 1799, with little perception of what was to befall the Irish Parliament in the
following year, they voted £ 1,000
“to enable the parish to complete the repair of the church, and to make
proper accommodation in it for the reception of the Members of the House
of Commons and their Speaker.”24
In 1800 Johnston succeeded Hartwell as architect and worked on the church
until it was re-opened in 1807. This work, his first major commission in Dublin,
included the arrangement of the interior and the design for a gothic tower
(which was never built).25
23) An interesting account of the work on St. Andrew’s from 1793 onwards is given in J T
Gilbert’s A History of the City of Dublin, Vol. 3, pp. 310 ff.
24) Gilbert, op.cit.
25) Illustrated in Betjeman, op.cit., p. 31.
10843. Armagh Observatory, view of rear elevation.
The exteriors of St. Andrew’s26 were of little interest. The steeple was dull, and
the other elevations, though showing Johnstonian details, show little individual
intervention on Johnston’s part in walls which had probably been built by
Hartwell. The “very splendidly decorated” interiors,27 however, were Johnston’s
own, and on these he lavished his invention, his care and his controlled richness
of decoration. The elliptical plan (Plate 33) measured 80 ft. by 60 ft. and a
gallery surrounded the entire church, which was lit, according to the plans in the
National Library, by four windows in the gallery.28 Now it appears that the
church was, nonetheless, so well lit that special screens had to be placed over
the windows to reduce the light.29 Some other light source must be suggested,
and it seems reasonable to suppose that the church was lit by a large oval lantern
in the roof. No drawings in the Murray Collection describe this explicitly; but
one plan,30 showing the seating arrangement, shows a marked shadow cast by the
gallery on the floor beneath, which could only be explained by top-lighting.
26) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 4.
27) Gilbert, op.cit., p. 311.
28) The plans show a window at each end of the major axis, and another two, both on the same
side of the ellipse, with the organ between them. St. George’s, too, is lit only by windows
in the gallery.
29) Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 10.
30) PF 4, St. Andrew’s folder, No. 1, top sheet.
109The gallery arrangement showed a reluctance to display the means of support
which can be seen too in the solution adopted in St. George’s. The beams
supporting the gallery were not themselves supported at their extremities by
columns, but were cantilevered on columns set close to the walls. It is recorded,31
further, that these columns were
“not reconcilable to any known order, yet do great credit to the taste of the
architect, Mr. Francis Johnston, who seems to have taken the idea from
Mr. Denon’s drawings of Egyptian ruins.”
45. Bank of Ireland, Dublin, ground floor plan, 1855.
A translation of Baron Dominique Vivant Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la
Haute Egypte had been published by J. Shea in Dublin in 1803, only one year
after the original publication in Paris.32 This detail has led some commentators
to think that the whole church was decorated internally in the Egyptian style.
The drawings in the National Library contradict this interpretation, as indeed
does the architect’s character. Large scale innovations and experiments were
eschewed; it was quite in keeping with his sense of what was proper to confine
his precocious interest in the Egyptian Revival to scholarly allusions in the
orders.
31) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, op.cit., pp. 510-513.
32) A copy of this edition is in the National Library, Dublin.
I l l46. Bank of Ireland, West Hall.
Brewer speaks33 of the interior as being “irresistably affecting,” and so indeed
it must have been, with light streaming down from above onto the pulpit which
was placed, not in the centre of the church, but half-way along a minor axis
of the ellipse so that it rose up towards the gallery which surrounded it. Directly
behind this pulpit, in the gallery, was the organ, and the pews were arranged
so as to converge to this focal point of organ and pulpit. This must have been
one of Johnston’s most powerful interiors, where he was able to join his love
of ample curves, with the excitement of top-lighting so as to develop the drama
of the Townley rotunda to the solemn ends of the traditional Calvinism of the
Irish liturgy.
Rising on a gentle hill on the north side of the city closing the vistas along
Temple Street (Plate 34), Eccles Street (Plate 35), (and along the later Hardwicke
Street) is the church of St. George’s. Johnston began work on the church in
33) J. N. Brewer, op.cit.. Vol. 1, pp. 122-126.
11247. Bank of Ireland, Chimney piece in West Hall, probably executed by Thomas Kirk from
Francis Johnston’s designs.
1802.34 With a terrace of houses laid out in a crescent plan in front of it,35 St.
George’s takes full advantage of its free-standing situation. Like the Chapel
Royal, it is maintained in impeccable condition, but here also, a re-arrangement
of the east end36 has destroyed some of the gentle drama of the original interior.
The exterior of the ground floor is rusticated. The side elevations, like the
entrance facade, are of two storeys, of five bays. The upper windows of the sides
and of the end bays of the front are tall, semicircular-headed windows, while
34) In the Murr. Coll., PF 4, there are drawings for St. George’s signed by Richard Morrison:
an elevation was illustrated in the catalogue of the I.A.D. Exhibition, no. 89. Grouped with
these in the same portfolio are undated designs for unnamed churches by Henry Aaron
Baker and S. Smith. The Murr. Coll. catalogue describes these and Morrison’s designs,
as “competition drawings” for St. George’s.
35) This crescent plan may have its origin in the crescent of Beresford Place, laid out shortly
before 1790, as a setting for Gandon’s newly erected Custom House.
36) The east end was rearranged c. 1880. Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., Plate XIX, reproduce
an old photograph of the church before alterations.
11348. Richmond House of Correction (Richmond or City Bridewell), Cease to Do Evil Gate,
design by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
11449. Richmond Penitentiary, view of entrance.
those below have segmental tops. A large tetrastyle Ionic portico occupies the
middle of the entrance elevation and supports a pediment behind which rises,
to a height of two hundred feet, the tall steeple which is derived from that of
Gibbs’ St. Martin-in-the-Fields.37 The clock storey and the storey above corre-
spond closely to those of Gibbs’ steeple, but otherwise there are great differences.
St. George’s contrasts the sure succession of the different levels—each rising
smoothly from the one beneath—with the nervous energy of the cornice levels
which cast narrow bands of dark shadow on the white Portland stone. Johnston
made this steeple more substantial than that of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, with
its many perforations, and he modelled this solidity with greater attention to
chiaroscuro than did Gibbs. This is particularly noticeable in the lowest storey
of the Dublin steeple where the columns are deeply recessed into the corners.
The entrance door gives onto a tripartite narthex (Plate 36), in plan not unlike
similar vestibules in Gibbs’ Book38 and similar, too, to the narthex suggested in
Richard Morrison’s designs for St. George’s. Under the spire is an octagonal
vestibule with deep niches, a more strongly modelled space than anything else
in Johnston’s work. In the space on each side of this octagon is a delicate
elliptical staircase. Beyond this narthex, the interior of the church, unlike what
has been described so far, is entirely Johnstonian in feeling, and owes nothing
37) Apart from the design being available in Gibbs’ Book of Architecture, it appears that
Johnston was impressed with Gibbs’ work on his visit to London in 1796. His diary records
for the IOth April “In my walk I stop’d to look at many Churches . . . particularly St. Mary
le Strand and St. Martins in the fields.”
38) e.g. Gibbs, op.cit., Plate 2.
11550. Bank of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
to Gibbs. The interior measures 84 feet by 60 feet and is unusual in being wider
than it is long: as in St. Andrew’s, whose dimensions were very similar, the
longer axis is transversal. Other features recall St. Andrew’s. The body of the
church is very airy and bright, with windows only in the gallery. (In St. George’s,
however, there is a flat ceiling with no top-lighting.) The lower windows seen
on the exterior of the building light, not the interior of the church, but a low
narrow corridor which surrounds three sides of the interior (not the east end),
on the inner wall of which the gallery is cantilevered (Plate 37). Even the doors
leading from this corridor into the body of the church are concealed in the
careful panelling of this inner wall (Plate 38). Here again, Johnston showed
himself reluctant to become explicit in the support of the gallery and one is
11651. Bank, of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
immediately reminded of his remarks on Covent Garden Theatre. He wrote
“This Theatre tho’ smaller is in my opinion superior to that in Drury Lane
both in style of finishing and in the convenience of seeing and hearing, the
Gallerys or Box ranges all hang without support, which gives an elegance
of appearance (when fill’d with Company) not to be described.”39
His liberal use of cantilevered staircases; the supporting columns of the gallery
in St. Andrew’s set back close to the walls; the gallery of St. George’s canti-
levered on an inner wall rather than supported on columns, and the hidden
support of the deep coving and lantern in the roof of the Cash Office in the Bank
of Ireland are all expressions of a preference for apparently effortless support of
39) Diary of his English Journey, entry for 13th April 1796.
117certain members, which shows consistently through his work, and at the same
time explains his lack of affinity with anything authentically Gothic.40
In all of these features there is a close connexion with St. Andrew’s Church.
Here in St. George’s there is the added testimony of the interior decoration as
evidence of Johnston’s skill. This is the apogee of his sparing yet sumptuous
style. The tentative suggestions of brittle elegance of the Primate’s Chapel are a
thing of the past. The unsureness of the Townley rotunda has been strengthened
and clarified in St. George’s, especially in the ceiling (Plates 39, 40).41 There is a
balance of abstract geometrical form and naturalistic detail, a balance of minute-
ness and overall conception of the whole design; above all there is a restraint
and controlled richness, also seen in the interiors of the Bank, which is John-
ston’s mature reaction to the decorative style of Dublin plasterwork in the last
quarter of the eighteenth century.
The first ten years of the nineteenth century, with commissions of such prestige
as the Chapel Royal, St. Andrew’s, St. George’s, the Bank of Ireland, and with
his experiments in the Castle style in domestic architecture, brought full achieve-
ment of maturity as an architect to Johnston. It was a period, however, which can
perhaps be seen as one of regrettable fame, for success brought with it the official
appointment as Architect of the Board of Works and Civil Buildings. In this post
he engaged in the official commissions which were to dominate the rest of his
architectural activity. These, by their nature, demanded the hard and callous
manner of the elevations of the Richmond Penitentiary (Plate 55). But it was a
hardness and callousness which reacted on Johnston himself, and which may
have soured his sensitive touch. For in the last ten years of his life he turned
from architecture to give his attention to increasing his extraordinary collection
of paintings. All this lay ahead, however, when he designed St. George’s, which
takes it place eminently at the very peak of his career. In this church he wor-
shipped, to it he gave his beloved bells, and in its graveyard he is buried. In a
city admittedly poor in steeples that of St. George’s is an inspiring sight, lovely
in all lights but lovelier than anything in Dublin when its white stone is seen in
a harsh white light against the background of a threatening northern sky.
40) As in the staircase of Slane Castle, his structural feats were occasionally too ambitious.
The single span ceiling of St. George’s, receiving no support except from the exterior walls,
threatened to fall in 1836. It was saved by the efforts of the engineer Robert Malet. See
A S h o r t H i s t o r y o f t h e P a r i s h o f S t . G e o r g e , D u b l i n . . . c o m p i l e d . . . b y C a n o n R . J . K e r r ,
M.A., p. 7. See, too, Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 20.
41) A hitherto unidentified drawing by Johnston showing an early—later much modified—
design for this ceiling is in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 29.
11852. General Post Office, Dublin, view of east elevation.
3. CIVIC ARCHITECTURE
The first important work in Dublin with which Johnston’s name is associated
is the building of Daly’s Club House. This was an exceedingly important com-
mission, “the most superb gambling-house in the world.”1 It stretched from the
Parliament House along Dame Street to Anglesea Street (Plate 41), and there is
an interesting account of it in Gilbert’s History of Dublin,2 in which is quoted the
lavish praise of travellers to the city who, impressed with the magnificence of its
interiors, “concurred in declaring it to be the grandest edifice of the kind in
Europe.” Gilbert, and following him, all other commentators on Johnston,
attribute the design to Johnston.
Now building began on Daly’s in 1789, and it was opened two years later.
Thus, if the building is Johnston’s, it is his first independent work of any signifi-
cance,3 unrivalled in its importance until the building of St. Andrew’s more than
ten years later. His connexion with the Club House must, however, now be ques-
tioned. Firstly, no drawings for this work are known. More important is the fact
that Johnston does not mention it in his letter to Brewer in 1820, a letter in which
1) John Bowden, Tour in Ireland, 1791; quoted by Craig, op.cit., p. 281.
2) J. T. Gilbert, A History of the City of Dublin, 1861; Vol. II, p. 305.
3) This is true if observations elsewhere on the dates and authorship of Rokeby Hall, Bally-
makenny Church and the Drogheda Corn Market are accepted. Work on the Armagh
Observatory did begin in 1789, but the Observatory consists simply of a tower attached to
the rear facade of a small country house (Plates 42, 43).
11953. General Post Office, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Mrs. Desmond Forde).54. King’s College, Cambridge, design for Hall and Offices by James Gibbs (from A Book of Architecture).55. Richmond Penitentiary, design for unexecuted elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).56. Richmond Penitentiary, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).only the most paltry of his commissions was ignored. Johnston would hardly
have ignored “the grandest edifice of the kind in Europe” if it had been his first
important commission. Finally, it can be argued that the style of what still
remains of the building—the centre block, with the top storey altered—cannot
easily be related to Johnston’s work at this time. Dr. Maurice Craig agrees with
me that even in its original form the building was “not very characteristic” of
Johnston.
The importance of Daly’s lay in its relation to the neighbouring buildings of
the Parliament House and Trinity College. The order is exactly that of Pearce’s
Parliament House, and the disposition of orders and masses is not dissimilar to
the arrangement of the Trinity College facade.4 Daly’s was important in extend-
ing the vista from College Green along the newly widened Dame Street in a
coherent and impressive piece of town planning. It is difficult to regard it as
likely that, so early in his architectural career, Johnston had any substantial
responsibility for this major and ambitious project.
An undisputable and more enduring monument to Johnston in College Green
is the Bank of Ireland.5 The Bank opened negotiations to buy the Parliament
House in March 1802. In August 1802 a competition for designs to convert the
building into a bank was announced. There was some initial difficulty in award-
ing the first premium to any one of the thirty-five competitors, and independently
of the competition, and before announcing the result, the Board of the Bank
appointed Francis Johnston as its architect.6 The foundation stone for the new
work was laid on 8 March 1804. The conditions of sale stipulated that the
chambers of the Lords and Commons be altered. It was also thought desirable
that the exterior of the building should be made more uniform and more orna-
mental. The condition of the Parliament House, before alterations, can be seen
from a plan prepared for the 1802 competition (Plate 44). By comparing this
with a plan of the Bank in 1855 (Plate 45) the main outlines of Johnston’s
structural changes can be seen. Firstly, the House of Lords (Plate 45, A) and
Gandon’s approach to it were left unaltered. The House of Commons (Plate
45, B) on the other hand was subdivided into offices but Pearce’s corridor sur-
rounding three sides of the House was unchanged. The space between the
Commons and the portico was extended slightly to the east and became the Cash
Office (Plate 45, C). There were considerable additions in the north-west corner
of the plan, which include a handsome gateway to the guard-house. The main
external changes, however, affected the quadrants. Robert Parke’s “piazza” was
eliminated by rebuilding the western quadrant wall between the free standing
columns which had screened it; and Gandon’s screen wall joining the front
portico to his House of Lords portico on the east was brought slightly forward
and received engaged columns. As Curran has pointed out,7 most of these ideas
4) Daly’s, however, unlike Trinity west front, has undiminished pilasters.
5) An invaluable history of the building of the Parliament House and its subsequent history
as the Bank is contained in C. P. Curran’s appendix to F. G. Hall’s The Bank of Ireland
1783-1946; Dublin and Oxford, 1949.
6) The first premium was awarded to a design signed T.V.; second to John Foulston and
third to Joseph Woods Jr.
7) Hall, op.cit., p. 460.
124were contained in the various plans by other competitors, or emerged from the
comments on these projects made by the assessors of the competition.
The external changes made by Johnston are, in a way, typical of his fondness
for symmetry and of his lack of appreciation of the Picturesque. Gandon’s screen
wall was rather dreary, and can only have gained by being enlivened by the
Portland stone of the engaged columns. But a description of Parke’s “piazza”
given by Curran8 is phrased in terms which speak of its unusually picturesque
quality. Picturesque or not, the sober Johnston completed the symmetry of the
building and walled up the piazza.
The East and West Halls of the Bank are simple vestibules decorated in a
strong and robust style (Plate 46). The walls of the West Hall9 are rusticated for
threequarters of their height, with deep horizontal channelling, which contributes
to the spartan feeling of this room. This effect is softened only by wave pattern
panels and the draperies between the lion head corbels. Such draperies were a
favourite theme of Johnston’s. Nowhere did he use them as successfully as in the
Bank where they are an important part of the scheme of the Cash Office. In the
West Hall they are also used in the chimneypiece (Plate 47) which, though
probably executed by Thomas Kirk, was designed by Johnston. Over the mantle-
piece is a tondo with the arms of the Bank. On each side of the fireplace is a
bracket richly carved with a lion’s head from which issues a fold of drapery.
Above the lion heads, the brackets have been given capitals such as a pilaster
might have. The capitals are those of a disguised but unmistakable Greek Doric
order. The echinus may be covered lightly with a leaf design, but the shape,
placed directly over the three-ribbed necking band has the profile of a Greek
Doric capital. This seems a small point but it is significant. The Cease to do Evil
Gate of the City Bridewell (Plate 48) is crowned with a plain triangular piece of
masonry which is supported on a moulding which has the same echinus and
necking band profile as the Bank chimneypiece. At the entrance to the Richmond
Penitentiary the balcony over the door is supported on brackets which have a
similar profile (with a deeper echinus) (Plate 49). The Greek Doric capital profile
also appears on the impost mouldings of the ground floor arcade of the General
Post Office. This allusiveness and insistent return in details to the motifs of the
Greek Doric order characterize his interest in the Greek Revival in his later
work. In his early houses, when the Revival was an innovation, Johnston had
used the Doric and the Primitivist orders as at Townley in a full, if non-monu-
mental, way. Then, just as the public was ready to take a grand monumental
statement of the Revival (Nelson’s Pillar10 was begun in 1808; St. Mary’s Pro-
Cathedral in 1816), Johnston retired into the scholarly allusiveness of the above
examples. His reticence is typical; fine though they were, the grand monuments
of the Greek Revival implied a certain exaggeration of effect which Johnston
could never use.
8) Hall, op.cit., p. 446.
9) Dr. Maurice Craig suggests that the West Hall is still largely by Pearce.
10) The design of Nelson’s Pillar is sometimes attributed to Johnston. Early topographical
guides to Dublin, and more recently Dr. Maurice Craig, all give the design to William
Wilkins and the superintendence of the work to Johnston. The scale of this vast single
Doric column seems to be unlike anything Johnston would have designed. See Patrick
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 265. “McClintock/IFR) A three storey five bay gable-ended mid-C18 house with a pedimented Doric doorcase. In 1814, the residence of William McClintock.”
Stone House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay three-storey over basement house, built c. 1760. Rectangular double-pile plan, single-storey addition to west c. 1800. Pitched slate roofs, clay ridge tiles, red brick and smooth rendered corbelled chimneystacks, tooled stone verge coping, moulded cast-iron gutters to overhanging eaves, circular cast-iron downpipes. Painted roughcast-rendered walling, painted stone plinth and V-jointed quoins. Square-headed window openings, painted smooth rendered soffits and reveals, painted timber six-over-six (ground and first floors), three-over-three (second floor) and one-over-one (ground floor south elevation) sliding sash windows; painted timber fixed-light windows to west extension. Open-bed pedimented north entrance, tooled limestone raking cornice, engaged Doric columns on block plinths, incised benchmark west plinth, painted timber Y-tracery fanlight in dressed limestone tympanum; square-headed door opening, dressed limestone surround, painted timber twelve-panel door, dressed limestone threshold and flagstones; square-headed door opening to extension, painted vertically-sheeted timber door. Set in own grounds; driveway to north and east, grass to south, east and west, limestone balustrade running eastwards from north-east corner of house; single- and two-storey random rubble stone outbuildings to south-east around concrete yard, pitched slate and corrugated-iron roofs, hipped to west building, red brick bellcote to north-west building, square- and segmental-headed openings, some red brick surrounds, painted vertically-sheeted timber doors, stone steps to west end of north-west building.
Appraisal
This handsome Georgian house has attractively proportioned fenestration and a fine door entrance of limestone. Thought to have been built by the Fosters of Collon, it retains many original features although the owner believes that a light well to the front of the house was covered over some time ago.
Stone House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Smarmore Castle, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 261. “(Taaffe/IFR) A medieval castle, inhabited by the Taaffes since 1320, which now forms the centre of a long and not quite symmetrical front, having a plain C18 addition on either side of it, both additions being three bays, but whereas that to the left is two storey, that to the right is two storey over a high basement. The left hand addition in in fact the side of a range which extends back at right angles to the old castle. This consists of a three bay centre, with an entrance doorway surrounded by blocking, recessed between two projecting gable-ended wings, both gables being crowned with chimney-stacks. The right hand gable end is two bay; that to the left has a single long central window above two small windows at ground level. Also in C18, the old castle was given a skyline of battlements, as well as pointed sash windows, regularly disposed. Library and drawing room upstairs; dining room and a second drawing room on ground floor.”
Detached multiple-bay house, built c. 1740, now used as guest house. Irregular plan, medieval tower house, c. 1320, to centre of east elevation, three-bay two-storey wing to south and three-bay two-storey wing to north, c. 1770; projecting gable-fronted end bays to either side of three-bay two-storey central block, south elevation; multiple-bay two-storey west wing c. 1740, battlements and moulded pointed arch window surrounds added to tower house c. 1800. Pitched slate an hipped roofs, some replacement artificial slate, smooth rendered and brick chimneystacks, overhanging eaves with timber soffits, uPVC rainwater goods, some surviving cast-iron. Unpainted roughcast rendered walling, limestone base plinth, random rubble stone walling to tower house. Square-headed window openings, smooth rendered reveals, limestone sills, painted timber six-over-six sliding sash windows, pointed arch window openings to tower, smooth rendered block-and-start surround, hood-mouldings terminating in helmet stops, limestone sills, painted timber four-over-four sliding sash windows c. 1800. Square-headed door opening to south elevation, tooled ashlar limestone block-and-start surround, carved keystone detail, painted timber door with two vertical panels, plain-glazed overlight, limestone step. Stableyard to north-west comprising two-storey stone outbuildings c. 1800, ranged around a central square-plan courtyard, now in use as leisure centre; pitched slate roofs, brick chimneystacks, brick cornice to eaves, cast-iron and replacement uPVC rainwater goods, random rubble stone walling; square-headed window and door openings, block-and-start brick and ashlar limestone surrounds, painted timber three-over-three sliding sash windows, multiple pane casement window and diamond pane casement windows; variety of original and replacement painted timber vertically-sheeted doors; segmental-headed carriage openings to west and north ranges. Yard bounded by random rubble stone wall, carriage entrance to north-east with segmental-headed opening. House set back from road in own extensive landscaped grounds, random rubble stone boundary walls throughout, entrance gateway to north-east comprising ashlar limestone gate piers and wrought-iron gates.
Appraisal
Smarmore Castle, formerly the seat of the Taafe family, is a fine surviving example of eighteenth-century architectural values, of which the balanced classical proportions and restrained use of detailing, limited to a finely-crafted ashlar door surround, are characteristic features. The original tower house is of considerable archaeological significance and this is an excellent example of multi-layered development on one site, a typical feature of several large country houses. A handsome, formally-planned, stable yard is an important survival helping to preserve the original context of the site.
Smarmore Castle, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Smarmore Castle, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Smarmore Castle, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.
THE TAAFFES OWNED 1,277 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY LOUTH
The members of this noble family resided, for a series of years, in the Austrian dominions, and filled the highest and most confidential employments, civil and military, under the imperial government, doubtless from having been, from theretofore, as Roman Catholics, debarred the prouder gratification of serving their own.
The Taaffes were of great antiquity in the counties of Louth and Sligo, and produced, in ancient times, many distinguished and eminent persons; among whom was Sir Richard Taaffe, who flourished during the reign of EDWARD I, and died in 1287.
Contemporary with Sir Richard was the Lord (Nicholas) Taaffe, who died in 1288, leaving two sons: John Taaffe, Archbishop of Armagh, who died in 1306, and
RICHARD FITZ-NICHOLAS TAAFFE, whose eldest son,
RICHARD TAAFFE, was seated at Ballybraggan and Castle Lumpnagh.
This gentleman served the office of sheriff of County Louth in 1315, and to his custody was committed the person of Hugh de Lacy, the younger, Earl of Ulster, after his condemnation for high treason, in inciting the invasion of Ireland, by Edward Bruce, until the execution of that unfortunate nobleman at Drogheda.
From this Richard lineally descended
SIR WILLIAM TAAFFE, Knight, of Harleston, in Norfolk, who distinguished himself by his services to the Crown, during the Earl of Tyrone’s rebellion, in 1597; and subsequently maintained his reputation against the Spanish force, which landed at Kinsale in 1601.
Sir William died in 1630, and was succeeded by his only son,
SIR JOHN TAAFFE, Knight, who was advanced to the Irish peerage, in 1628, by the title of Baron Ballymote and VISCOUNT TAAFFE, of Corren, both in County Sligo.
His lordship married Anne, daughter of Theobald, 1st Viscount Dillon, by whom he had (with other issue),
THEOBALD, his heir;
Lucas, major-general in the army;
Francis, colonel in the army;
Edward;
Peter, in holy orders;
Jasper, slain in battle;
WILLIAM.
His lordship died in 1642, and was succeeded by his eldest son,
THEOBALD, 2nd Viscount (c1603-77), who was advanced to an earldom, as EARL OF CARLINGFORD, in 1662.
This nobleman espoused zealously the royal cause during the civil wars, and had his estate sequestered by the Usurper.
After the Restoration, he obtained, however, a pension of £800 a year; and, upon being advanced in the peerage, received a grant of £4,000 a year, of the rents payable to the Crown, out of the retrenched lands of adventurers and soldiers, during such time as the same remained in the common stock of reprisals, and out of forfeited jointures, mortgages etc.
His lordship was succeeded at his decease by his eldest surviving son,
NICHOLAS, 2nd Earl and 3rd Viscount, who fell at the battle of the Boyne, in the command of a regiment of foot, under the banner of JAMES II; and, leaving no issue, the honours devolved upon his brother,
FRANCIS, 3rd Earl (1639-1704), the celebrated Count Taaffe, of the Germanic Empire.
This nobleman, who was sent in his youth to the city of Olmuts, to prosecute his studies, became, first, one of the pages of honour to the Emperor Ferdinand; and, soon after, obtained a captain’s commission from CHARLES V, Duke of Lorraine, in his own regiment.
He was, subsequently, chamberlain to the emperor, a marshal of the empire, and counsellor of the state and cabinet.
His lordship was so highly esteemed by most of the crowned heads of Europe that, when he succeeded to his hereditary honours, he was exempted from forfeiture, by a special clause in the English act of parliament, during the reign of WILLIAM AND MARY.
His lordship died in 1704, and leaving no issue, the honours devolved upon his nephew,
THEOBALD, 4th Earl, son of Major the Hon John Taaffe, who fell before Londonderry, in the service of JAMES II, by the Lady Rose Lambart, daughter of Charles, 1st Earl of Cavan.
He married Amelia, youngest daughter of Luke, 3rd Earl of Fingal; but dying without issue, in 1738, the earldom expired, while the viscountcy and barony passed to his next heir male,
NICHOLAS, Count Taaffe (c1685-1769), of the Germanic Empire, as 6th Viscount.
This nobleman obtained the golden key, as chamberlain, from the Emperor CHARLES VI, as he did from His Imperial Majesty’s successor, which mark of distinction both his sons enjoyed.
His lordship, as Count Taaffe, obtained great renown during the war with the Turks, in 1738, and achieved the victory of BELGRADE with high honour.
He married Mary Anne, daughter and heiress of Count Spendler, of Lintz, in Upper Austria, a lady of the bedchamber to Her Imperial and Hungarian Majesty, and had issue,
John, predeceased his father; Francis, dsp.
His lordship was succeeded by his grandson,
RUDOLPH, Count Taaffe (1762-1830), 7th Viscount, who espoused, in 1787, the Countess Josephine Haugwitz, and had issue,
FRANCIS, his successor; Louis; Clementina.
His lordship was succeeded by his only son,
FRANCIS JOHN CHARLES JOSEPH RUDOLPH, Count Taaffe (1788-1849), 8th Viscount, who wedded, in 1811, the Countess Antonia Amade de Várkony, and had issue.
Richard Taaffe (1898–1967), entitled to petition for restoration of the viscountcy, but never did so.
Lord Taaffe was seated at Ellischau Castle, Bohemia.
Under the Titles Deprivation Act 1917, his name was removed from the roll of the Peers of Ireland by Order of the King in Council, 1919, for bearing arms against the United Kingdom in the 1st World War.
In 1919, he also lost his title as Count of the Holy Roman Empire, when the newly-established republic of Austria abolished the nobility and outlawed the use of noble titles.
Independent of the legal situation in the UK, the monarchy was abolished in Austria in 1918, and in 1919 the newly established republic of German Austria abolished all noble titles by law.
Heinrich, Count Taaffe, 12th Viscount Taaffe, thus lost both his titles and ended his life as plain Mr Taaffe.
He married, in 1897, in Vienna, Maria Magda Fuchs, and they had a son, Richard (1898–1967).
Upon the death of his first wife in 1918, he married, secondly, Aglaë Isescu,, in 1919, at Ellischau.
He died in Vienna in 1928, aged 56.
EDWARD CHARLES RICHARD TAAFFE (1898–1967) was an Austrian gemmologist who found the first cut and polished taaffeite in November 1945.
Mr Taaffe inherited neither the viscountcy nor the title of Count, as Austria had generally abolished titles of nobility in 1919.
With Richard Taaffe’s death in 1967, no heirs to either title remained and both the Austrian and the UK titles became extinct.
Portions of the Taaffes’ County Sligo estate were offered for sale in the Encumbered Estates Court in 1852.
In 1866-67, John Taaffe offered for sale his estate at Gleneask and lands at Drumraine, in the barony of Corran.
In 1880 John West Pollock offered over 500 acres of the Taaffe estate in the barony of Corran for sale in the Land Judges’ Court.
The Gleneask estate derived from an 1808 lease between Henry King and John Taaffe; while the Drumraine lease dated from the same period from the Parke estate.
The Taaffe family are also recorded as the owners of 833 acres in County Galway in the 1870s.
The family also held extensive properties in counties Louth and Meath.
The Congested Districts Board acquired over 5,000 acres of the Taaffe estate in the early 20th century.
SMARMORE CASTLE, near Ardee, County Louth, is claimed to be one of the longest continuously inhabited castles in Ireland.
Records show that William Taaffe was seated here in 1320, after his family arrived in Ireland from Wales at the turn of the 12th century.
Successive generations of Taaffes continued to make Smarmore Castle their main residence in Ireland until the mid 1980s, when the property was sold.
The castle is divided into three distinct sections comprising an early 14th century castle-keep with extensions on either side built ca 1720 and 1760 respectively.
The castle is built of local stone and its walls are eight feet thick.
The 18th century courtyard behind the castle was formerly the stables for the estate.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 241. “(Ruxton/LFI1912; Fortescue, sub Fortescue-Brickdale/LG1972; and Carlingford, B/PB 1898) A three storey late C18 house of red brick, built for the Parkinson family. Front with two bay centre. and end bays breaking forward slightly; end bays with Wyatt windows in their upper storeys and large tripartite windows below. On one side a single storey C19 bow. C19 eaved roof. Inherited at the beginning of C19 by W.P. Ruxton, MP, whose mother was Elizabeth, daughter and heiress of Robert Parkinson; and by whom it was devised to his wife’s nephew, the politician Chichester Fortescue, 1st and last Lord Carlingford, of Ravensdale Park, in the same county.”
Red House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Red House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay three-storey house, built c. 1810, attached to early eighteenth century house to north, now forming three-storey wing. Semi-octagonal single-storey porch projecting from centre of east elevation; four-bay south elevation, end bays breaking slightly forward, single-storey flat-roofed bow window to east; two-storey hipped roof return in angle between north and west elevations; kitchen garden to north-west; single-storey lean-to return in angle between two-storey return and west elevation; three-storey pitched roof north wing; swimming pool with lean-to perspex roof to north of kitchen garden; pitched roof range of garden buildings to west of kitchen garden. Hipped slate roof to main house, clay ridge and hip tiles, brick chimneystacks with projecting string courses and yellow cylindrical pots, cast-iron gutters on painted timber projecting eaves with fascia and deep soffit carried on paired wooden brackets; pitched slate roof to north wing, clay ridge tiles, brick chimneystacks with projecting strings and octagonal pots, cast-iron gutters on painted timber fascia. Brick walling to east and south elevations of main house, rubble stone section to north-east corner, painted smooth rendered frieze below eaves, painted roughcast to west gable, rubble stone to north elevation, painted brick to two-storey and single-storey returns, unpainted roughcast to west elevation north leg; painted roughcast rendered walling to north wing. Square-headed window openings, brick arches to ground and first floor windows, dressed stone sills, painted timber six-over-six sliding sash windows to ground and first floor east elevation, three-over-three to second floor; south elevation tripartite ground floor window to west, eight-over-eight flanked by four-over-four tripartite windows to first floor breakfronts, six-over-six flanked by two-over-two with moulded timber mullions to cases, similar at second floor; French windows to centre and bow window to south elevation; square-headed window openings to north wing, smooth plastered reveals and soffits, dressed stone sills, painted timber side-hung casement windows. Semi-octagonal verandah porch with pitched slate roof, lead-capped hips, oval cupola with plain glazing, cast-iron gutters, painted ruled-and-lined smooth rendered walling, outer timber columns, tooled Tuscan painted stone doorcase with flat entablature, painted timber door with four panels below lock rail and four glazed above, oval sunburst fanlight. Stone steps to first floor entrance to north wing, painted timber door with four glazed panels, projecting canopy to porch. Steps descending to lawn to south; wooded area to north; walled garden to west of kitchen garden, red brick north wall, rubble stone south wall. Stableyard to south-west; two-storey north range, crenellated central breakfront, octagonal cupola, rubble stone walling with red brick dressings, painted timber sliding sash windows, painted timber doors; symmetrical west range, three-bay two-storey pavilions to north and south, single-storey arcade with six segmental-headed arches between pavilions, hipped slate roofs, rubble stone walls with red brick dressings; stone piers and wrought-iron gate to east; single-storey lean-to slate-roofed shed to west of stableyard north range, rubble stone walls, brick dressings, segmental-headed openings. Three-bay single-storey hipped roof gate lodge to south-east, red brick corbelled chimneystack, saddle-back clay ridge and hip tiles, cast-iron gutters on overhanging painted timber eaves with single modillions (similar to main house), painted smooth rendered walling, painted timber tripartite sliding sash windows two-over-two panes to centre one-over-one to either side, painted timber vertically-sheeted half-door; unpainted smooth rendered octagonal gate piers, wrought-iron lattice gates.
Appraisal
This magnificent house was built by William Parkinson Ruxton of Ardee House on his inheritance of the property in 1806. The semi-octagonal verandah porch is a most unusual feature, the glazed cupola and stone doorcase of which exhibit particularly fine workmanship. Many other elements are also worthy of note including well executed brickwork, the oversailing eaves and excellent window detailing. The earlier late seventeenth, early eighteenth century house, now incorporated as a wing, is of much significance in its own right. The ensemble includes a walled garden and a superb stable yard which, in itself, is of considerable interest.
Red House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.
p. 120. “1.5km N on the Dundalk Road. An attractive miniature estate, sheltered from the road by a belt of woodland, with a large, three-storey house of Regency appearance attached to a tall thin wing. The wing, with small windows and broad areas of masonry, is said to be late C17 or early C18. The main block, with a shallow rood and wide projecting eaves, was built for William Parkinson Ruxton of Ardee House, who inherited the property in 1806. It is a substantial redbrick square, five bays on the front and four bays on the s side, with large tripartite windows and a square bay window added here at ground level. The entrance front has a polygonal porch after the manner of a cottage ornee. The early C19 stables on the side are screened by a castellated wall and have a central battlemented section.”
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 239. “(Foster-Vesey-Fitzgerald/IFR) A house originally built soon after mid-C18 by the Fosters, and greatly enlarged and altered early C19 by J.L. Foster, MP, afterwards Judge of Common Pleas. The C18 house forms the centre of the principal front: a three storey three bay gable-ended block with the top storey treated as an attic above the cornice. On either side of it are two storey one bay overlapping wings. In the lower storey of the wings there are Wyatt windows, set in arched recesses going down to the ground; there are similar arched recessed in the three lower storeys; presumably these date from an early C19 refacing. The centre block has a deep open Doric porch, a Wyatt window on either side of it and a central die on the roof parapet; all of which would also be early C19. The left-hand wing extends back to form a two storey adjoining front of eight bays with a two bay central breakfront and a trellised porch. From the centre of the house sprouts an odd round tower, rather like the top of a lighthouse; with rectangular windows all round it, a frill of pierced battlements and a conical roof. This might be thought to be a Victorian eccentricity, but in fact it dates from early C19, and could derive from the C18 central attic-towers of Ancketill’s Grove and Gola in the neighbouring county of Monaghan. Sold 1850s to the Henry family.”
Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached three-bay three-storey house, built c. 1760. Single-bay two-storey wings to north and south c. 1830, round rendered tower to rear (west) with pierced battlements and conical copper roof c. 1830, entrance portico to east, domed glass house to south-west; decorative covered veranda to south elevation. Pitched slate roof, hipped to north and south wings, red brick chimneystacks with dressed limestone corbelled courses and caps, gutter hidden by parapet, cast-iron hoppers, circular cast-iron downpipes. Smooth rendered ruled-and-lined walling, frieze with patera separating first and second floors, surmounted by moulded sill course to second floor windows, stone parapet; segmental-headed recessed blind arches, moulded rendered surround, running from ground to first floor on main house and ground floor to wings, block-and-start quoins to wings. Square-headed window openings, tooled limestone sills, painted timber tripartite windows to ground floor, six-over-six sliding sash windows to first floor, three-over-three to second floor. Doric portico to east, painted timber columns and pilasters to plain frieze and cornice, square-headed door opening, painted timber double doors with eight flat panels, two limestone steps to entrance, limestone entrance platform to portico. House opens onto oval grassed area, stableyard to north, approached by long avenue, through fields to east.
Appraisal
Rathescar is a fascinating example of a country house which has been enlarged and enhanced at various stages through the centuries. Originally a hunting lodge, the addition of two wings increased its importance and the delightfully eccentric observation tower which resembles a land-locked lighthouse adds to its architectural significance, in addition, the delightful curved glass house adds to its technical significance.
Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Rathescar, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 238. “(Brabazon, sub Meath, E/PB; McClintock/IFR; Dillon, V/PB) A mid-C18 gable-ended house of two storeys over basement. Five bay front with pedimented breakfront. Lunette window in pediment; Venetian window in upper storey; round-headed doorway with sidelights below. Long flight of steps to entrance door.”
Lambert Brabazon (1742-1811) of Rath House, Termonfeckin, County Louth, 18th Century School, courtesy Adam’s 17th May 2005. He had a brother Henry (1739-1811) who had a son Henry (1771-1815).Lambert Brabazon (1742-1811) of Rath House, County Louth as a Mid-shipman (Young Naval Officer) by Robert Hunter, courtesy Adams Irish Old Masters May 2025.Henry Brabazon in a green coat courtesy, 18th Century School, Adam’s 17 May 2005 – I’m not sure which Henry Brabazon this is, but since sold at the same time as Lambert Brabazon portrait, probably Henry Brabazon (1739-1811) of Rath House, County Louth.Henry Brabazon in a blue coat, 19th Century School, courtesy Adam’s 17 May 2005. I’m not sure which Henry Brabazon this is, probably Henry Brabazon (1771-1815) of Seafield House, son of Henry Brabazon (1739-1811) of Rath House, County Louth.Sidney Brabazon in a blue dress, Irish School, 18th Century, courtesy Adam’s 17 May 2005.Hilary Brabazon in a mauve dress, Irish School, 18th Century, courtesy Adam’s 17 May 2005.
Rath House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay two-storey house over basement and with attic, built c. 1770. Pedimented breakfront to south, two-storey over basement blocks to north-west and north-east, multiple-storey flat-roofed extensions to north. Pitched slate roofs, clay ridge tiles, red brick corbelled chimneystacks, flat-capped chimneystack to north-west block, painted moulded cornice to breakfront, cast-iron gutters on painted moulded smooth rendered eaves course, cast-iron downpipes. Painted roughcast-rendered walling, battered basement, string course to south. Square-headed window openings, painted smooth rendered soffits and reveals, painted tooled stone sills, painted timber two-over-two and six-over-six sliding sash windows c. 1870, timber casement windows to attic and basement, wrought-iron window bars to basement; round-headed window opening to north, vertical and horizontal glazing bars, margin lights; plain-glazed lunette to breakfront, moulded rendered surround. Round-headed door opening to south, moulded render archivolt, fluted keystone, pilasters supporting heavy moulded cornice, painted timber panelled door with glazed panels, painted timber Y-tracery fanlight, sidelights with painted stone sills and smooth rendered surrounds, tooled limestone steps with roughcast-rendered flanking walls, cast-iron boot scraper; square-headed door opening to west, smooth rendered soffits and reveals, painted timber panelled door with glazed panels and overlight. Set in own grounds; random rubble boundary wall to west, brick and smooth rendered domed niche in wall; cobbled yard to north, single- and two-storey roughcast-rendered and red brick outbuildings to north and south-east, pitched slate roofs, square- and segmental-headed openings, wine vault to ground floor and pedimented door to first floor north outbuilding, tooled limestone steps with red brick walling, pigeon holes to east elevation south-east outbuilding; red brick walling to west, square-headed gateway to walled garden, random rubble stone walling; red brick walling to east, segmental-headed gateway; single- and two-storey outbuildings to east and north, random rubble bellcote to gable, square- and segmental-headed openings with brick surrounds and external steps to east outbuilding; parking area to south and drive to south-east; entrance to south-east, random rubble stone square gate piers, pyramidal caps, wrought- and cast-iron gates, random rubble stone quadrant walls, soldier coping.
Appraisal
This attractive country house has a simple symmetrical form which is strengthened by the central breakfront providing an elegant entrance bay. The doorway is particularly interesting with its Venetian form and fine rendered detailing. The varied outbuildings to the rear are also noteworthy, with a mixture of features that offer an insight into the diverse actions of a country house.
Rath House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 226. “(McClintock/IFR; Smyth/IFR) A Victorian house in a mixture of Italianate and late-Georgian styles. Two storey; three bay front with three light Romanesque window in centre above Ionic portico with latticed balustrade. Adjoining front of seven bays, with pediment above central Wyatt window and pilastered enclosed porch with latticed balustrade. High-pitched eaved roof on bracket cornice. Hall divided by screen of Ionic columns; rooms with modillion cornices and friezes of plasterwork. Now owned by the Irish Countrywomen’s Association.
Newtown House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached seven-bay two-storey house, built c. 1830. Rectangular-plan to main three-bay house, two-storey canted bays to east and west sides of central entrance doorway, two-bay east and west wings, two-storey pitched roof return to north-east, single-storey gabled porch to east gable, single-storey canted sunroom to west gable, single-storey lean-to sunroom between north elevation and west elevation return, kitchen yard to east, stableyard north of kitchen yard, farmyard north of stableyard, walled garden to west. Pitched slate roofs, clay ridge tiles, painted smooth rendered chimneystacks with moulded string at cap and plain clay pots, parapet to south elevation, half-round steel gutters to north elevation and return. Painted roughcast rendered walling, painted ruled-and-lined smooth render to bays, painted chamfered plinth, projecting first floor string to bays, moulded coping to parapet south elevation. Square-headed window openings, painted stone sills, painted timber one-over-one sliding sash windows, one three-over-three sliding sash window to north elevation, round-headed staircase window to north elevation, painted timber casement windows to return. Elliptical-headed entrance door opening, painted timber double doors each with three bolection moulded panels set in recess flanked by Doric columns carrying flat entablature, petal fanlight over, approached by flight of three stone steps. Kitchen yard with single-storey lean-to slate-roofed brick walled shed to south, single-storey lean-to painted roughcast range to east with diminishing course slating, two-storey uncoursed rubble stone pitched roof range to north, brick dressings to openings, painted timber small-pane sliding sash windows, painted timber vertically-sheeted doors, elliptical-arched carriage entrances to east end, bellcote on east gable, elliptical-headed archway entrance to north-east corner, cobbled surface to yard; stableyard with single-storey lean-to stable building with pitched slate roof, rubble stone walling, five elliptical-headed archways, two-storey and single-storey ranges to north, rubble stone walling, pitched slate roofs, external stone staircase leading to upper floor of west building, lean-to red brick shed to north-east corner, archway to west leading to walled garden, squared rubble limestone piers to entrance from east end; farmyard with two-storey stableyard buildings to south, rubble stone boundary wall to walled garden to west, rubble stone boundary wall to north, two-storey range with rubble stone walling, dressed limestone quoins and red brick dressings to openings, pitched slate roof, and shallow pitched roof single-storey outbuilding to south with two elliptical-headed openings in south gable, corrugated-iron bow-roofed shed carried on painted steel columns set at north end of yard. Gravelled forecourt to front (south) of main house, lawns falling to small stream further south, approached by driveway to north of walled garden and north farmyard.
Appraisal
This house, which was altered during the Victorian era, retains many interesting details. The fine outbuildings contribute to site context. The landscaped setting with mature trees and stream is particularly attractive.
Newtown House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Newtown House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Newtown House, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Mount Oliver (formerly Mount Pleasant), Ballymascanlon, Co Louth
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 216. “MacNeill, sub McNeile/LG1972) A house enlarged 1830s and later by John MacNeill, an eminent civil engineer who was 1st Prof of Engineering at Trinity College Dublin. His new addition, which he designed himself, has something of the air of one of the smaller Government houses in the British Raj in India. The principal front is of two storeys in the centre, with a giant pedimented portico of four widely-spaced Tower of the Winds columns; and of one storey and three bays on either side. The side elevation is single-storey, with a two storey one bay centre between two curved bows. Balustraded roof parapets; entablatures over windows. To the right of the front is a Victorian tower. Two storey galleries hall with bifurcating staircase. The house is now a Catechetical and Pastoral Centre and has been re-named Mount Oliver.”
Mount Oliver, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached thirteen-bay single- and two-storey former country house, built c. 1800, now in use as convent. Irregular plan, enlarged and remodelled c. 1850, two-storey central bay, pedimented entrance, flanked by single-storey balustraded bays to east and west of south elevation, two single-storey balustraded bows flanking two-storey central bay to east elevation, portico to central bay, two-storey canted bay to north elevation, multiple ranges of extensions to north, east and west, built c. 1950-2000. Roofs not visible behind balustrade to south elevation, stone coping to parapet; gutters hidden by parapet, circular cast-iron downpipes. Painted smooth rendered walling, plinths, raised and channelled block-and-start quoins, frieze and cornice to parapet. Square-headed window openings, painted moulded architraves, painted sills, cornices to east and west wings of south elevation and bows of east elevation; Wyatt window to pedimented bay of east elevation; painted timber six-over-six sliding sash windows, one-over-one sliding sash windows, and painted timber casement windows. Corinthian Portico, tooled limestone columns supporting painted smooth rendered frieze, cornice and pediment; square-headed door opening, painted smooth rendered moulded surround surmounted by frieze and cornice, flanked by sidelights; painted timber panelled double doors c. 1950, polychromatic tiled entrance platform accessed by granite step; square-headed door opening to west wing of south elevation, painted smooth rendered moulded surround, painted timber glazed panelled doors, tripartite overlight, approached by three granite steps; square-headed door opening to central bay of east elevation, painted smooth rendered surround, engaged columns flanked by sidelights, supporting frieze and cornice, painted timber and glazed door, five granite steps to entrance; square-headed door opening to north of east elevation, painted smooth rendered moulded surround, painted timber glazed panelled door. Situated within own grounds, outbuilding c. 1780 to north-west now in domestic use, hipped slate roof, random rubble stone walling, arcading to ground floor, red brick surrounds to openings. Entrance gateways to north and south; smooth rendered channelled piers to south flanked by modern railings on painted plinth, long avenue leading to house flanked by wrought-iron railings.
Appraisal
Originally designed by and home of the railway engineer Sir John MacNeill, this relaxed classical styled house is now home for the Mount Oliver Convent, bought by the Sisters in 1935. This imposing structure with its grandiose façade stands testament to the brilliance of its architect, the classical portico and balustraded bays create a pleasing symmetry. Though added to over the decades the house retains many original features such as the original fenestration and the retention of the stone outbuildings, though now in domestic use, heighten the appeal of the structure and maintain the original site context.
Mount Oliver, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Oliver, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Mount Oliver, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 208. “(Dunlop. Sub Delap/LGI1912) A hybrid house, partly medieval, with a three light Perpendicular window, and partly Georgian Gothic; with a Regency bow front on the gardy side, and Victorian ironwork and other Victorian features. Now semi-derelict. Folly tower and folly arch spanning public road.”
Detached five-bay two-storey house, built c. 1820, comprising two-bay castellated Gothicised block and two-bay standard Georgian block, flanking tripartite arcaded and glazed projecting porch. Regency bow front to garden elevation. Hipped slate roof with rendered chimneystack. Rendered walls. Pointed arch openings to Gothicised block and square-headed openings to Georgian block, having timber sliding sash windows. Incorporating medieval tower house.
Appraisal
This unusual house retains fabric which is medieval, Georgian Gothic, standard Georgian and Regency. It also exhibits later Victorian alterations and additions. This complex combination makes for a house of great character and charm.
Freestanding monumental limestone entrance gateway, built 1869. Triumphal arch form with round-headed carriage opening set within square-headed surround crowned by limestone parapet. Limestone rubble masonry with tooled limestone ashlar voussoirs, string course and rebate. Carved limestone plaque with hood moulding bearing inscription and date 1869, to west elevation. Formerly served as entrance to Monasterboice House, now narrow public road, fronting on to wider road to west, very overgrown, vegetation possibly masking boundary wall to north and south.
Appraisal
This fine monumental gateway with its imposing triumphal arch form is an important component of the architectural heritage of the Monasterboice House Demesne. Fine detailing and skilful construction add to its architectural value and it is a landmark feature within the landscape.
In the 1830s, William Drummond Delap of Monasterboice House, County Louth was paid £1,933 by the British government. The reason: he was being compensated for the abolition of slavery in the Caribbean colonies. Mr Delap, it transpires, had owned 96 slaves on two plantations in Jamaica. Slavery there, and on the other islands in the area, had been abolished in 1833, but such was the level of complaint about loss of revenue from former owners, not least those like Mr Delap who lived on the opposite side of the Atlantic, that four years later parliament passed the Slave Compensation Act, resulting in some £20 million being paid out. Little work has been done in Ireland on the benefits enjoyed during the 17th and 18th centuries by some country house estate owners who were involved in plantations, although twelve years ago History Ireland published a highly informative article by Nini Rodgers on the subject of Irish links to the slave trade (see: https://www.historyireland.com/18th-19th-century-history/the-irish-and-the-atlantic-slave-trade). In England, and indeed in France too, much more research has been undertaken on the matter, not least at University College London’s Centre for the Study of the Legacies of British Slave-ownership, where archival examination has discovered who were the beneficiaries: it has, for example, documented which country houses owe their existence, in part or whole, to money that came through slavery in the Caribbean. In 2013, the centre created a database of the individuals who were paid compensation when slavery was finally abolished, and it includes some 170 names of people in Ireland, not least William Dunlop Delap. His brother Colonel James Bogle Delap, a friend of George IV, received £4,960. Among the others, some are well-known, such as two members of the banking La Touche family (£6,865 between them) and Howe Peter Browne, second Marquess of Sligo (£5,425). However, by far the largest beneficiary was one Charles McGarel of Larne, County Antrim whose claim for 2,777 slaves on twelve different plantations led to his receiving no less than £135,076. (To explore the documentation relating to Ireland, see: https://www.ucl.ac.uk/lbs/search).
William Drummond Delap was a descendant of Hugh Dunlop who around 1600 moved from Ayrshire in Scotland to Sligo where he was involved in the wine trade. His son Robert moved to County Donegal, which is where successive generations of the family lived, their surname becoming corrupted to Delap. Robert Delap, born in 1754, graduated from Trinity College Dublin and was admitted to the Middle Temple before being called to the Irish bar in 1778. Two years before he had married Mary Ann Bogle, daughter of James Bogle of Castlefin, County Donegal. It was Mary Ann’s family, likewise of Scottish origin, which had plantation interests in Jamaica: the UCL Legacies of British Slave-ownership site lists 21 persons of that name. Evidently she acquired a substantial stake in these properties following her marriage: Robert Delap died at sea while returning from the Caribbean in 1782, leaving a widow with several young children including William Drummond who was then barely two years old. In 1805 he married Catherine, eldest daughter of William Foster, Bishop of Clogher and brother of John Foster, last Speaker of the Irish House of Commons. In 1811 John Foster described his niece’s husband as ‘a good man of business resident in London where he acted as a merchant and has a West India property of his own to look after.’ Around 1830 he decided to move to Co Louth, where many of his wife’s family owned land, and there he bought various parcels to create an estate of more than 1,200 acres on which he either built, or more likely enlarged, Monasterboice House. He also laid out elaborate terraced gardens and planted many specimen trees. On a rise south-west of the house he erected a folly, called Drummond Tower after his maternal grandmother who had helped to raise him after his father’s early death. In 1861 he resumed by licence the family’s original surname of Dunlop.
Not much appears to be known about the history of Monasterboice House, now a ruinous building. At its core looks to be a typical late-mediaeval tower house, which as was so often the case has been subject to various structural alterations but is still clearly distinct rising on the northern section of the site. To the south is what appears to be a late 18th/early 19th century residence, of two storeys over basement, three bays with the centre one in the form of a substantial bow. The ground floor of this has glazed doors that once opened onto the terraced gardens and is flanked by Wyatt windows typical of the period. The house’s principal entrance lies on the west side, and was formerly approached by a long avenue. Perhaps to harmonise with the old tower house, this section was gothicised in the Tudoresque manner with arched windows and a large porte-cochere in front of a castellated porch. The back of the house opens to two large yards beyond which was the walled garden. It looks as though the building was developed in three sections, first the tower house, then the villa and finally a Tudor-Gothic expansion. In Samuel Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, he writes of Monasterboice House that ‘a spacious mansion is now being erected by the proprietor.’ Lewis’ work came out in 1837, just as compensation was being paid to former plantation owners, such as William Drummond Delap/Dunlop. A suspicion forms that the money he then received was used to improve his country residence. Future generations did not enjoy it for long: his son and heir Robert Foster Dunlop married a cousin, the Hon Anna Skeffington but the couple had no son and their daughters do not seem to have occupied the place. At the start of the last century, the estate built up by William Drummond Delap was divided up and while the Louth Archaeological and History Society Journal reported in 1945 that the house was ‘in a fair state of preservation’ that is certainly no longer the case.