Halfway there!

I didn’t publish yet this week, because I was busy with holidays and also with attending the terrific 21st Annual Historic Irish Houses Conference organised by the Centre for the Study of Historic Irish Houses and Estates in Maynooth University.

Stephen and I have visited 93 of the Section 482 properties, so we have passed the halfway mark, as there are 179 listed properties in 2023 (I see that 1 Martello Terrace in Bray has dropped off the list, unfortunately). We are just home from a jaunt to County Wexford where we visited Kilmokea, Woodville House and Gardens, and Sigginstown Castle. We also went to see Johnstown Castle, since on our previous visit the castle itself was closed, and we visited the Office of Public Work site of Tintern Abbey.

There are three types of property that can qualify for the Section 482 Revenue Scheme https://www.revenue.ie/en/personal-tax-credits-reliefs-and-exemptions/documents/section-482-heritage-properties.pdf.

The Section 482 Revenue Scheme gives a reduction from income tax for a percentage of the cost of upkeep of a historic property. It took me a long time to understand that there are different types of Section 482 properties. This can make it difficult for property owners as well as for potential visitors.

In general, a property that is included in the Section 482 List, published by Irish Department of Revenue, has to be open to the public for sixty days a year. However, not every property listed under Section 482 has to be open to the public. If a property is listed with the bold type “Tourist Accommodation Facility,” this is another type of listing with different requirements and obligations. A property of this type does not have to open to the general public at all.

Furthmore, I have discovered much to my dismay that a property listed as Tourist Accommodation Facility does not need to facilitate the average tourist. It may be listed as an accommodation facility when it is only available as a whole house rental.

To add to the confusion, several properties are hotels or have accommodationn but are not listed as a Tourist Accommodation Facility under the scheme. They may not qualify under all of the obligations of the scheme, and therefore choose to list as a regular Section 482 property. These, therefore, have to be accessible to the public for visits on the listed sixty days a year.

Many of the properties that are listed officially as Tourist Accommodation Facility are kind enough to have open days, but not all of them! This is purely out of their own generosity. The lack of clarity in the way the list is published means that visitors – like me for a couple of years – think that the property has an obligation to be open to the public, when they actually do not.

It may not be fair that a property qualifies as a “section 482 property” and receives public tax money when it is not open to the public, but this is a matter for legislation. As it stands, these properties do not have to be open to the public at all. So, for example, my excitement at seeing Lambay Castle listed was short-lived, when I realised it is listed as a Tourist Accommodation Facility.

However, Lambay Castle is one of the properties that does open to the public for tours. A visitor has to have deep pockets, since a visit to the island which includes a tour of the house costs at least €790, not the usual €5-10. That can include 6-12 guests and includes the boat over to the island, which makes it somewhat more reasonable, but it is still quite an expensive day out. If you want to take advantage of it being a tourist accommodation facility, you have to book the entire house, unfortunately. So I don’t expect to see Lambay Castle unless I receive a windfall! The same goes for Lisdonagh in County Galway or Lismacue in County Tipperary, which are both “entire house” accommodation and do not open to the public.

The third type of listing is as a garden. Properties that qualify as a garden only have to open the garden to the public. In the Revenue Section 482 list, it does not specify whether a property is listed as a house, or as “garden only.” Therefore at the start of the year I write to the Revenue to ask which properties are garden only. Properties listed as garden only cannot obtain a reduction on income tax from repairs made to a house but only the cost of maintenance and upkeep of the garden.

Many of the properties have gardens, and since it is not specified on the list whether the property is “garden only,” some owners may, I suspect, take advantage of the ambiguity, and seek to direct the visitor toward the garden only – this has certainly happened to me on one occasion! I only found out later that the owner was meant to make the house accessible for a visit.

So, purely for my own sense of achievement, I am going to list the Section 482 properties here, and I will highlight the ones I have visited so far. There are 179 listed properties. However, since there are 21 properties listed as Tourist Accommodation and at least 15 do not have open days for public visits, I actually passed the half-way mark, or the achievement of visiting half of the properties, a while ago! Of the 158 properties that are not listed as Tourist Accommodation Facility, we have visited 83. Of the 179 properties, we have visited 93!

75 remain to visit, that are not tourist accommodation!

1. Borris House, Borris, Co. Carlow

2. Huntington Castle, County Carlow

3. The Old Rectory Killedmond, Borris, Co. Carlow.

The Old Rectory Lorum, Co. Carlow Tourist Accommodation Facility

4. Cabra Castle (Hotel), Co. Cavan

5. Corravahan House & Gardens, Co. Cavan

6. Barntick House, Clarecastle Co. Clare – still to write up and publish

7. Loughnane’s, Main Street, Feakle, Co. Clare

8. Newtown Castle, Newtown, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare

9. Ashton Grove, Ballingohig, Knockraha, Co. Cork

Ballyvolane House, Castlelyons, Co. Cork Tourist Accommodation Facility

10. Bantry House & Garden, Bantry, Co. Cork

11. Blarney Castle & Rock Close, Blarney, Co. Cork

12. Blarney House & Gardens, Blarney, Co. Cork

13. Burton Park, Churchtown, Mallow, Co. Cork

14. Brideweir House, Conna, Co. Cork

15. Drishane Castle & Gardens, Co. Cork

16. Drishane House, Castletownshend, Co. Cork

17. Dún Na Séad Castle, Baltimore, Co. Cork

18. Fenns Quay, 4 & 5 Sheares Street, Cork

19. Garrettstown House, Kinsale, Co. Cork

20. Kilcascan Castle, County Cork

21. Kilshannig House, Rathcormac, Co. Cork

22. Riverstown House, Riverstown, Glanmire, Co. Cork

23. Woodford Bourne Warehouse, Sheares Street, Cork

24. Cavanacor House, Ballindrait, Lifford, Co. Donegal

25. Oakfield Park, Oakfield Demesne, Raphoe, Co. Donegal (garden)

26. Portnason House, Portnason, Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal

27. Salthill Garden, Mountcharles, Co. Donegal (not listed as Garden Only but when I visited the house was not accessible – perhaps when I visited it was Garden only)

28. Bewley’s, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 – still to write up and publish

29. Doheny & Nesbitt, Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2

30. Hibernian/National Irish Bank, Dublin 2

31. 11 North Great George’s Street, Dublin 1

32. 39 North Great George’s Street, Dublin 1 – still to write up and publish

33. 81 North King Street, Smithfield, Dublin 7

34. The Odeon, Dublin 2

35. Powerscourt Townhouse Centre, Dublin 2

36. 10 South Frederick Street, Dublin 2

37. The Church, Mary’s Street/Jervis Street, Dublin 1

38. Clonskeagh Castle, Clonskeagh, Dublin 14

39. Colganstown House, Newcastle, Co. Dublin

40. Corke Lodge Garden, Shankill, Co. Dublin (garden)

41. Fahanmura, 2 Knocksina, Foxrock, Dublin 18 – still to write up and publish

42. Farm Complex, St Margaret’s, Co. Dublin

Lambay Castle, Lambay Island, County Dublin Tourist Accommodation Facility

43. The Old Glebe, Newcastle, Co. Dublin

44. Martello Tower, Portrane, Co. Dublin

45. Meander, Foxrock, Dublin 18

46. Primrose Hill, Lucan, Co. Dublin – still to write up and publish, it may have been garden only when we visited – we were not given access to the house.

47. St. George’s, Killiney, Co. Dublin

48. Tibradden House, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16

49. Castle Ellen House, Athenry, Co. Galway

Claregalway Castle, Claregalway, Co. Galway Tourist Accommodation Facility

Lisdonagh House, Caherlistrane, Co. Galway Tourist Accommodation Facility

50. The Grammar School, College Road, Galway

51. Oranmore Castle, Oranmore, Co. Galway

52. Signal Tower & Lighthouse, Co. Galway

53. Woodville House, Co. Galway (garden)

54. Ballyseede Castle, Ballyseede, Tralee, Co. Kerry – still to write up and publish

55. Derreen Gardens, Kenmare, Co. Kerry (garden) – still to write up and publish

56. Kells Bay House & Garden, Caherciveen, Co. Kerry (garden) – still to write up and publish

57. Tarbert House, Tarbert, Co. Kerry

58. Blackhall Castle, Calverstown, Kilcullen, Co. Kildare

59. Burtown House and Garden, Athy, Co. Kildare

60. Coolcarrigan House & Gardens, Naas, Co. Kildare

61. Farmersvale House, Badgerhill, Kill, Co. Kildare

62. Griesemount House, Ballitore, Co. Kildare

63. Harristown House, Brannockstown, Co. Kildare

64. Kildrought House, Celbridge Village, Co. Kildare – still to write up and publish

65. Larchill, Kilcock, Co. Kildare

66. Leixlip Castle, Leixlip, Co. Kildare

67. Moone Abbey House & Tower, County Kildare

68. Moyglare Glebe, Maynooth, Co. Kildare

69. Steam Museum Lodge Park Heritage Centre, Kildare

70. Templemills House, Celbridge, Co. Kildare

71. Aylwardstown House, Co. Kilkenny

72. Ballysallagh House, Co. Kilkenny

73. Creamery House, Castlecomer Co. Kilkenny

74. Kilfane Glen & Waterfall, Co. Kilkenny (garden)

75. Kilkenny Design Centre, Castle Yard, Kilkenny – still to write up and publish

76. Shankill Castle, Paulstown, Co. Kilkenny

77. Tybroughney Castle, Piltown, Co. Kilkenny

78. Ballaghmore Castle, Borris in Ossory, Co. Laois

79. Stradbally Hall, Stradbally, Co. Laois

80. Manorhamilton Castle (Ruin), Co. Leitrim – still to write up and publish

Ash Hill, Kilmallock, Co. Limerick Tourist Accommodation Facility

81. Glebe House, Bruff, Co. Limerick

82. Glenville House, Glenville, Ardagh, Co. Limerick

83. Kilpeacon House, Crecora, Co. Limerick

84. Odellville House, Ballingarry, Co. Limerick

85. Mount Trenchard House and Garden, Co. Limerick

86. The Turret, Ryanes, Ballyingarry, Co. Limerick

87. The Old Rectory, Rathkeale, Co. Limerick

88. Moorhill House, Castlenugent, Lisryan, Co. Longford

89. Barmeath Castle, Dunleer, Drogheda, Co. Louth

90. Killineer House & Garden, Drogheda, Co. Louth

91. Rokeby Hall, Grangebellew, Co. Louth

92. Brookhill House, Brookhill, Claremorris, Co. Mayo

Enniscoe House & Gardens, Ballina, Co. Mayo Tourist Accommodation Facility

93. Old Coastguard Station, Westport, Co. Mayo

Owenmore, Garranard, Ballina, Co. Mayo Tourist Accommodation Facility

94. Beauparc House, Beau Parc, Navan, Co. Meath

95. Boyne House Slane, Co. Meath

96. Dardistown Castle, Co. Meath

97. Dunsany Castle, Dunsany, Co. Meath – request not to publish write-up, unfortunately.

98. Gravelmount House, Navan, Co. Meath

99. Hamwood House, Dunboyne, Co. Meath – still to write up and publish

Killeen Mill, Clavinstown, Drumree, Co. Meath Tourist Accommodation Facility

Loughcrew House, Co. Meath Tourist Accommodation Facility – still to write up and publish, garden open to public, and we stayed in the whole house accommodation for our Hen-Stag in 2010!

100. Moyglare House, Moyglare, Co. Meath

101. Slane Castle, Slane, Co. Meath

102. St. Mary’s Abbey, High Street, Trim, Co. Meath

103. The Former Parochial House, Slane, Co. Meath

104. Swainstown House, Kilmessan, Co. Meath

105. Tankardstown House, Rathkenny, Slane, Co. Meath

Castle Leslie, Co. Monaghan Tourist Accommodation Facility

Hilton Park House, Co. Monaghan Tourist Accommodation Facility – still to write up and publish

106. Mullan Village and Mill, Co. Monaghan

107. Birr Castle, Birr, Co. Offaly – still to write up and publish

108. Ballybrittan Castle, Edenderry, Co. Offaly

109. Ballindoolin House, Edenderry, Co. Offaly

110. Corolanty House, Shinrone, Birr, Co. Offaly – still to write up and publish

111. Crotty Church, Castle Street, Birr, Co. Offaly

112. Gloster House, Brosna, Birr, Co. Offaly – still to write up and publish

113. High Street House, Tullamore, Co. Offaly

114. Loughton, Moneygall, Birr, Co. Offaly

115. Springfield House, Co. Offaly

The Maltings, Castle Street, Birr, Co. Offaly Tourist Accommodation Facility

116. Castlecoote House, Co. Roscommon – the two times we have been in County Roscommon I have tried to make an appointment but they have been closed due to having guests. They are not listed as Tourist Accommodation Facility so they should be open to visitors.

Clonalis House, Castlerea, Co. Roscommon Tourist Accommodation Facility

117. King House, Boyle, Co. Roscommon

118. Shannonbridge Fortifications, Co. Roscommon

119. Strokestown Park House, Co. Roscommon

120. Castletown Manor, Cottlestown, Co. Sligo

Coopershill House, Riverstown, Co. Sligo Tourist Accommodation Facility

121. Lissadell House & Gardens, Co. Sligo

122. Markree Castle, Collooney, Co. Sligo

123. Newpark House and Demesne, Co. Sligo

124. Rathcarrick House, Co. Sligo

Temple House, Ballymote, Co. Sligo Tourist Accommodation Facility

125. Beechwood House, Co. Tipperary

126. Clashleigh House, Clogheen, Co. Tipperary

127. Fancroft Mill, Roscrea, Co. Tipperary

128. Grenane House, Tipperary, Co. Tipperary

129. Killenure Castle, Dundrum, Co. Tipperary

Lismacue House, Bansha, Co. Tipperary Tourist Accommodation Facility

130. Redwood Castle, Co. Tipperary

The Rectory, Cahir, Co. Tipperary Tourist Accommodation Facility

131. Silversprings House, Clonmel, Co. Tipperary

132. Ballynatray Estate, Co. Waterford (garden)

133. Cappagh House (Old and New), Dungarvan, Co. Waterford

134. Cappoquin House & Gardens, Co. Waterford

135. Curraghmore House, Portlaw, Co. Waterford

136. Dromana House, Cappoquin, Co. Waterford

137. The Presentation Convent, Co. Waterford

138. Tourin House & Gardens, Co. Waterford

139. Lough Park House, Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath

140. Rockfield Ecological Estate, Co. Westmeath

141. St. John’s Church, Co. Westmeath

142. Tullynally Castle & Gardens, Co. Westmeath

143. Turbotstown, Coole, Co. Westmeath

144. Clougheast Cottage, Carne, Co. Wexford

145. Kilcarbry Mill Engine House, Co. Wexford

Kilmokea Country Manor & Gardens, Co. Wexford Tourist Accommodation Facility – still to write up and publish

146. Sigginstown Castle, Co. Wexford – still to write up and publish

Wilton Castle, Bree, Enniscorthy, Co. Wexford Tourist Accommodation Facility

Woodbrook House, Enniscorthy, Co. Wexford Tourist Accommodation Facility

147. Woodville House, New Ross, Co. Wexford – still to write up and publish

148. Altidore Castle, Kilpeddar, Greystones, Co. Wicklow

149. Ballymurrin House, Kilbride, Co. Wicklow

150. Castle Howard, Avoca, Co. Wicklow

151. Charleville, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow

152. Greenan More, Rathdrum, Co Wicklow

153. Killruddery House & Gardens, Co. Wicklow

154. Kiltimon House, Newcastle, Co. Wicklow

155. Kingston House, Kingston, Rathdrum, Co. Wicklow

156. Mount Usher Gardens, Ashford, Co. Wicklow (garden)

157. Powerscourt House & Gardens, Enniskerry, Co. Wicklow

158. Russborough,Blessington, Co. Wicklow

Lissadell House & Gardens, Lissadell, Ballinfull, Co. Sligo, F91 W2K1 – section 482

www.lissadell.com

Open dates in 2026: June 1, 3-7, 10-14, 17-21, 24-28, July 1-5, 8-12, 15-19, 22-26, 29-31, Aug 1-3, 5-9, 12-23, 26-30,

10.30am-6pm

Fee: adult €16, OAP/student €14, child €8, tour groups of over 30 persons who pay in advance receive a discount Fee: adult €16, OAP/student €14, child €8, tour groups of over 30 persons who pay in advance receive a discount

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Lissadell House and Gardens County Sligo Ireland, Photograph created by Peter McCabe, Tourism Ireland, 2015, taken from Ireland’s Content Pool care of Failte Ireland. This south elevation, facing the sea, has a three-bay central bow with a raised parapet and three-bays either side of the full height bow.
Lissadell House, County Sligo circa 1865-1914 by Robert French, Lawrence Collection NLI L_IMP_0936.

We visited Lissadell during Heritage Week 2022. I had been looking forward to seeing it as it has some amazing internal Classical architecture. It is most famous as the birthplace of Constance Markievicz, née Gore-Booth, the first woman senator in Ireland and fighter in the 1916 uprising, and also more recently as the host of a concert of Leonard Cohen. It was only sold out of the Gore-Booth family in 2004.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Studio portrait of Countess Constance Markievicz (née Gore-Booth) in uniform with a gun, photograph courtesy of National Library of Ireland Ref. KE 82
Lissadell, 2022.

It was built in 1830-35 for Robert Gore-Booth (1805-1876), 4th Baronet, to the Greek Revival design of Manchester architect Francis Goodwin (1784-1835). It replaced an earlier house nearer the shore which itself replaced an old castle. It is a nine-bay two-storey over basement house built of Ballisodare limestone. [1]

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The entrance front (north) elevation has a three-bay pedimented central projection flanked by three-bay side sections. When one approaches on the path one can see that the lower storey is open to the east and west to form a porte-cochere. The house was described by Maurice Craig as being ‘…distinguished more by its solidity than by its suavity and more by its literary associations than by either.’ I find the crafted stone and the massive squareness of it beautiful.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The east elevation which faces the sea has a five-bay central section between two-bay projections. The five-bay section contains a three-bay central breakfront with tall framing pilasters. Above the upper floor windows is a stepped stone feature that runs around three sides of the house.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Other former residents of the house deserve to be as famous as Constance.

Dermot James in his book The Gore-Booths of Lissadell tells us that the Gore-Booths are descended from Paul Gore of Manor Gore, County Donegal. He was MP for Ballyshannon in Donegal, and was created 1st Baronet Gore, of Magherabegg, County Donegal in 1621/22. He married a niece of the 1st Earl of Strafford, Isabella Wickliffe.

Paul Gore of Manor Gore had seven sons, and all married well. His oldest son, Ralph, 2nd Baronet, became the ancestor of the earls of Rosse, who are in Birr Castle [another section 482 property I visited]. Arthur, the second son, became the ancestor of the Earls of Arran, a family that subsequently inherited the very large Saunders Court estate near Ferrycarrig in County Wexford. He was MP for County Mayo and became 1st Baronet Gore, of Newtown Gore, Co. Mayo. A third son, Henry, married the eldest daughter of Robert Blaney of Monaghan and was the ancestor of the earls of Kingston. Two further sons settled in County Kilkenny, giving the family name to Goresbridge, and the seventh son settled in County Mayo and, according to a memorial tablet in Killala Cathedral, married Ellinor St. George of Carrick, County Leitrim, and he died at his residence, Newtown Gore, later named Castle Gore and Deel Castle, near Killala, County Mayo in 1697.

The fourth son, Francis Gore (1612-1712), lived in Ardtarman, County Sligo, which still stands and has been renovated for habitation and self-catering accommodation. [2]

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The front door is under the tall porte-cochere, which has a curved painted ceiling and massive wooden doors.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Francis Gore married Anne Parke of Parkes Castle in Leitrim – see my entry on OPW sites in Leitrim, Mayo, Roscommon and Sligo: https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/10/31/office-of-public-works-properties-in-connaught-counties-leitrim-mayo-roscommon-and-sligo/

Dermot James tells us that Francis managed to keep on good terms with both the Cromwellians and Royalists during the Civil War, avoiding an engagement with either cause. After the Restoration of Charles II, he was rewarded with grants of land in Sligo, Mayo and Kilkenny, and in 1661 he was knighted and also became M.P. for Sligo. He settled at Ardtarmon, two miles west of Lissadell. He fought for the crown in Lieutenant-Colonel Coote’s Regiment.

Francis and Anne had a son, Robert (1645-1720). He married Frances Newcomen and they had a son, Nathaniel (1692-1737). He married Letitia (or Lettice) Booth, only daughter and heiress of Humphrey Booth, of Dublin. [3] She must have inherited quite a bit since later generations added her surname “Booth” to their surname. In fact, the prosperous Booth estates in the English midlands were added to the Sligo property.

Robert and Lettice named their son “Booth” (1712-1773). In 1760 Booth Gore was created 1st Baronet Gore of Lissadell, County Sligo.

Booth married Emilia Newcomen, daughter of Brabazon Newcomen, and they had several children. Their first son, also named Booth, who became 2nd Baronet, died unmarried, and his brother Robert Newcomen inherited and added Booth to his surname in 1804, when he succeeded as the 3rd Baronet.

Robert Newcomen Gore-Booth inherited in his 60s, and only then married Hannah Irwin from Streamstown, County Sligo (ninety years later this property became part of the Gore-Booth estate). Their daughter Anne married Robert King, 6th Earl of Kingston, son of the 1st Viscount Lorton.

The eldest son, Robert (1805-1876) became the 4th Baronet, and he built the house at Lissadell which we see now. He was Lord Lieutenant for County Sligo and also MP for Sligo.

The 4th Baronet married Caroline King, daughter of Robert Edward King, 1st Viscount Lorton, whom we came across in King House in County Roscommon. Sadly, she died the following year in 1828. Two years later he married Caroline Susan Goold, daughter of Thomas Goold (or Gould). Her sister Augusta married Edwin Richard Wyndham-Quin, 3rd Earl of Dunraven, of Adare Manor in Limerick.

According to Dermot James, “Henry Coulter described Lissadell before Robert inherited the estate as ‘wild and miserable and poor looking.’ But within a few decades Sir Robert had demonstrated ‘the immense improvement which may be made in the appearance of the country and the quality of the soil by the judicious expenditure of capital.’ Coulter continued, considering the estate to be “one of the most highly cultivated and beautiful in the United Kingdom… If the excellent example set by Sir Robert Booth as a resident country gentleman – living at home and devoting himself to the improvement of his property – were more generally followed by Irish landlords then indeed the cry of distress which is so often raised… would never more be heard, even in the west of Ireland.” [Henry Coulter, The West of Ireland published 1862]. [4]

Lissadell, 2022.

Robert was in situ at the time of the Great Famine in the 1840s. He did send some tenants to North America, and was later criticised for the evictions, but on the whole he was a generous landlord. He ran a soup kitchen and provided seed for crops. When his first wife Caroline died the Sligo Journal called her “a ministering angel among the people, her charitie was unbounded and her exertions to relieve the wants and sufferings of the distressed excited the admiration of all classes” when “the dark clouds of pestilence and death covered the land.”

Lissadell, 2022.

Dermot James writes: “If the exterior of Lissadell House is seen by some to be disappointingly plain, Goodwin’s design ensured that the entrance to the interior is all the more unexpected and dramatic. The visitor is met by a spectacularly high entrance hall decorated with Doric and Ionic columns from which there is an impressive staircase in Kilkenny marble with cast iron balustrade leading to the building’s most important feature, the great gallery, lit by sky-lights high above. On Goodwin’s plans, the gallery is marked as the music room, reflecting one of Sir Robert’s tastes, where an organ was installed. In the main, the house then remained largely unaltered for more than a century and a half.

Mark Bence-Jones describes the entrance stair hall in his Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988) as a lofty two storey hall, partly top-lit, with square Doric columns below and Ionic columns above and double staircase of Kilkenny marble.

In his book Irish Big Houses, Terence Reeves-Smyth alerts us to the winged birds in the iron balusters of the staircase. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
For more photographs of this wonderful hall and gallery see the entry by Robert O’Byrne. [5] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In the book Great Irish Houses, with forewards by Desmond FitzGerald, and Desmond Guinness published by IMAGE Publications in 2008, we are told that the scale of the stair hall is such that, unusually, a large fireplace was added to the return landing. The iron balusters are adorned with golden eagles.

Sir Robert took an interest also in the garden and Lord Palmerston of nearby Classiebawn would send him seeds from overseas. He sold some of the property in England and expanded his property in Ireland.

Dermot James tells us that when serving as MP Robert went regularly to London and brought his family and also servants. His servant Kilgallon wrote about the packing up: “They took all the silver plate. It was quite a business packing all up. They had boxes specially made for them. The housekeeper did not go as there was a housekeeper for the London house, a Mrs Tigwell. They took the first and second housemaids, house steward, groom chambers, under butler, and first and second footmen and steward’s room boy. All the other servants were put on board [reduced] wages [but] they were allowed milk and vegetables.” [6]

Kilgallon also described some details about how the Lissadell household was then being run, which is described by Dermot James: “The servants were managed by the house steward, Mr Ball, who engaged all the servants, paid their wages, and dismissed them when necessary. His duties included ordering all the wine for the house and acting as wine waiter at dinners. Ball supervised a small army of footmen, grooms, maids, etc. The groom chambers carved, and with the footmen, waited at all meals, despatched the post, opened the newspapers and ironed them. Their other duties included attending the hall door and polishing the furniture in the main rooms. One of the footmen was also the under-butler who kept the dinner silver in order and laid the dinner table, making sure that plates intended to be hot were kept warm in a special iron cupboard heated by charcoal kept outside the dining room door.”

The maids had to be up at 4am to prepare for carrying hot water to the bedrooms. There was a cook, pastry cook, kitchen maid, scullery maid and some kitchen boys. Kilgallon describes the meals, serving order and seating, and entertainment – there was a small dance in the servants hall once or twice a week, with beer and whiskey punch provided!

Henry William Gore-Booth (1843-1900) inherited in 1876 and became the 5th Baronet. He held the offices of High Sheriff of County Sligo, Deputy Lieutenant of County Sligo and Justice of the Peace for County Sligo. He was also a keen fisherman and Arctic explorer.

His sister Fanny Stella married Owen Wynne of nearby Hazelwood, County Sligo (which was designed by Richard Cassells and was recently owned by Lough Gill Distillery, until sold to American alcohol company Sazerac, which plans to save the house from dereliction).

Lissadell, 2022.

From the entrance hall, we were brought by the tour guide into the Billiards Room full of Gore-Booth memorabilia, including Henry’s fishing equipment. Kilgallon stayed on for the next generation, and he accompanied Henry the 5th Baronet on all of his fishing adventures and Arctic explorations. Kilgallon became Sir Henry’s personal valet as well as his close companion and confidant. At one point he saved Henry from an attacking bear, and the bear was then stuffed and brought back to Lissadell. It used to stand in the front hall, alarming arriving guests!

Kilgallon, with young Angus Gore-Booth.

The original wallpaper has been replaced by David Skinner, an expert on wallpapers of the great houses of Ireland, with hand-blocked period copies.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

It is said that Sir Henry’s wife Georgina built the artificial lake at Lissadell in the vain hope that he might stay at home and fish in it, but as the harpoons and whale bones in the billiard room testify, Sir Henry continued to travel.

Robert was President of the Sligo Agricultural Society, and he and his eldest son founded three co-operative societies in the area. He also took over the Sligo Shirt Factory to prevent it from closing and made it flourish again. He was also involved in mining locally, and played a role in setting up the railway connecting Sligo with Enniskillen, subsequently becoming the company’s chairman. He also continued the oyster fishery his father had set up – his father was one of the pioneers in creating artificial oyster beds. Henry married Georgina Mary Hill, daughter of Colonel John Hill of Tickhill Castle, Yorkshire.

Henry Gore-Booth, 5th Baronet, by Sarah Purser.
Georgina, Lady Gore-Booth, née Hill, by Sarah Purser.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Upstairs is the music gallery. Mark Bence-Jones describes it as a vast apse-ended gallery (an apse is an area with curved walls at the end of a building, usually at the the east end of a church), lit by a clerestory (a clerestory is a high section of wall that contains windows above eye level) and skylights, with engaged Doric piers along one side, and Ionic columns along the other. It was hard to capture in a photograph since we were on a tour.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In Great Irish Houses, forewards by Desmond FitzGerald and Desmond Guinness, we are told that the gallery is 65 foot long. It still has its original Gothic chamber organ, which was made by Hull of Dublin in 1812 and is pumped by bellows in the basement! Two Grecian gasoliers by William Collins, a renowned Regency maker of chandeliers, hang on chains from the ceiling. As late as 1846 Lissadell generated gas from its own gasometer.

Lissadell was the first house in Ireland to be lit by its own gas supply. This was produced in a plant installed by Sir Robert about a quarter of a mile to the west of the mansion, complete with a house for the manager in charge of the works.

A team led by Kevin Smith, from the internationally renowned Windsor House Antiques of London, undertook the major task of restoring the gasoliers.

A Grecian gasolier by William Collins, a renowned Regency maker of chandeliers. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Unusual, the gallery has Ionic pillars on one side and Doric pillars on the other side. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The original Gothic chamber organ, which was made by Hull of Dublin in 1812 and is pumped by bellows in the basement. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The 4th Baronet and Georgina Mary Hill had five children. The eldest son, Josslyn (1869-1944) was to inherit the property. There was a younger son, Mordaunt, and three daughters, Constance, Eva and Mabel.

It was with Josslyn that Henry William set up the co-operatives. When Josslyn was young, he had socialist ideals, much like his sisters Eva and Constance. He joined Horace Plunkett in his efforts to help the farmers to help themselves, by cutting out the middle man. It took a while for farmers to trust the motivation of Plunkett and Gore-Booth in setting up the co-operatives, thinking that “no good thing could come from a man who was at once a Protestant, a landlord and a Unionist.” Catholic priests even denounced the co-operatives as a “Protestant plot.” Eventually, however, they flourished, and helped the farmers.

Lissadell, 2022.

Josslyn continued to develop the estate, so that it became one of the most progressive and best run in Ireland.

Lissadell, 2022.

Josslyn was a keen gardener and plant breeder. At Lissadell he established one of the finest horticultural enterprises in Europe. By 1906, his gardens provided employment for more than 200 people. The head gardener, Joseph Sangster, became head gardener of the Royal Horticultural Society in England. An advocate of land reform, he let more than 1000 tenants buy out 28,000 acres of the property under the Wyndham Land Act of 1903. The final payments under the scheme were not received until the 1970s. Until he died in 1944, the estate was famous the world over for its varieties of old and new flowers. [7] The current owners are working to re-establish the gardens.

Next we enter a room that is in the bow of the house, and features in a poem by W. B. Yeats. Mark Bence-Jones tells us:

“The rather monumental sequence of hall and gallery leads to a lighter and more intimate bow room with windows facing towards Sligo Bay – the windows Yeats had in mind when he wrote, in his poem on Eva Gore-Booth and her sister, Constance Markievizc:

“The light of evening, Lissadell

Great windows open to the South.”

This room, and all other principal receptions rooms, have massive marble chimney-pieces in the Egyptian taste. The ante-room has a striped wallpaper of lovely faded rose.”

In memory of Eva Gore Booth and Constance Markiewicz” This is the first part of this poem:

The light of evening, Lissadell,
Great windows open to the south,
Two girls in silk kimonos, both
Beautiful, one a gazelle.

But a raving autumn shears
Blossom from the summer’s wreath;
The older is condemned to death,
Pardoned, drags out lonely years
Conspiring among the ignorant.
I know not what the younger dreams –
Some vague Utopia – and she seems,
When withered old and skeleton-gaunt,
An image of such politics.

Many a time I think to seek
One or the other out and speak
Of that old Georgian mansion, mix
pictures of the mind, recall
That table and the talk of youth,
Two girls in silk kimonos, both
Beautiful, one a gazelle.”

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Photographs of the Gore-Booths are taken from the Sterry family album, purchased for the Lissadell collection in 2007. It shows Constance in her early 20s.

Constance went to art school in the Slade School of Art in London 1892-1894. She lived in Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, where many of London’s bohemians and writers gathered: George Eliot had lived there, Whistler, Henry James and Erskine Childers. At the age of 25 went to Paris to continue her studies, and met and married a fellow artist, the Polish Casimir Markievicz. Many of Constance’s paintings still hang on the walls, as well as some work by Casimir. Their only child, Maeve Allys, was born in Lissadell in 1901.

Constance Gore-Booth (left) and her sister, Eva, in 1895.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Painting of Countess Markievicz (1868-1927) by Casimir Markievicz (1874-1932), hanging in the National Gallery of Ireland. Constance Gore-Booth studied art in London and Paris, and in 1900 married Count Markievicz-Dunin, a Polish aristocrat.
Lissadell, 2022.
Casimir Markievicz.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.

Constance had a strong social conscience, and became involved in the 1913 Lockout, where workers went on strike for better pay. She was then involved in the 1916 Rising, and was jailed for her activity. When the new state was born, she was elected to Dáil Eireann, where she served as Minister for Labour. She was also the first woman to be elected to the House of Commons at Westminster, London, but like many other Irish politicians, she declined to take her seat – members of Sinn Fein in Northern Ireland continue in this tradition and refuse to take their seats in Westminster.

Lissadell, 2022.

Eva was a suffragist and poet, and lived in meagre circumstances in England with her partner Esther Roper.

Lissadell, 2022.

Eva fought for Women’s Rights and clashing with the young Winston Churchill over barmaids’ rights in 1908. She spent many years in Manchester working to alleviate the condition of working women.

Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.

Eva wrote:

The little waves of Breffny

The grand road from the mountain goes shining to the sea
And there is traffic on it and many a horse and cart,
But the little roads of Cloonagh are dearer far to me
And the little roads of Cloonagh go rambling through my heart.

A great storm from the ocean goes shouting o’er the hill,
And there is glory in it; and terror on the wind:
But the haunted air of twilight is very strange and still,
And the little winds of twilight are dearer to my mind.

The great waves of the Atlantic sweep storming on their way,
Shining green and silver with the hidden herring shoal;
But the little waves of Breffny have drenched my heart in spray,
And the little waves of Breffny go stumbling through my soul.

Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
The drawing room with its rose pink wallpaper and a beautiful painting by Constance over the fireplace. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
An ornate Italian marble fireplace, set with an “horloge,” dominates one wall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The clock features the signs of the zodiac. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The drawing room’s comparted ceiling. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is also a collection of paintings by a friend of W.B. Yeats, “A.E.” i.e. George William Russell, who was also part of the farming Co-operative movement and, like Yeats, a mystic.

Paintings by A.E.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The anteroom still has an engraving that Constance made with her sister Mabel in a windowpane with a diamond in 1898. Drawings from Constance’s sketchbook are displayed also.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Sketches by Constance. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
A mystical painting by A.E.
Lissadell, 2022.
This little boy is the son of Casimir Markievicz, from Casimir’s first marriage, before he married Constance.

I had been particularly looking forward to seeing the dining room as I had seen pictures of it before and it has rather eccentric paintings which I love! Again, it was hard to take photographs because the room was crowded with the tour. Casimir painted portraits onto the pillars. He painted some of the servants, including Kilgallon. The bear shot by Kilgallon stands now beside his portrait.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The bear shot by Kilgallon stands now beside his portrait. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I love the portrait of the dog. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Next we went down to the basement, which holds the old kitchen and a warren of corridors.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I’m not sure who this is or why she is wearing such a peculiar hat – if you know, let me know! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
We did not get to linger in this room, unfortunately. The current owner of the house, Edward Walsh, is interested in military history. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
The stone steps are worn from use. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Tunnels were built for hiding the workings of the house, deliveries and the servants.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The long tunnel provides access to a sunken courtyard and the coach house and stable block, which was one of the largest in Ireland. This limestone complex of stables, tack rooms, grain stores and rooms once for staff and guests is now almost completely restored. Today it houses tea rooms, a gallery for exhibitions and lecture rooms.

Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.
Cafe and Museum at Lissadell House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022.

In the 20th century the family fortunes took a turn for the worse. Constance and Eva died in their 50s. Constance died in 1927 and Eva in 1926.

In June 1927 Constance fell seriously ill. She was admitted to a public ward in Sir Patrick Dun’s hospital (at her own insistence). She had peritonitis, and although she had surgery, it was too late. Constance Markievicz died at 1:25 a.m. on the morning of 15th July, 1927. She was attended by her husband, Casimir. Her brother, Sir Josslyn Gore Booth, had received daily bulletins from the Matron, and immediately arranged to attend the funeral in Dublin.

Lissadell, 2022.

Her brother Josslyn would have preferred a private, family funeral, but this was not to be. In death Constance Markievicz was even more openly appreciated and acclaimed than in life. Three hundred thousand people attended the funeral to pay tribute to “the friend of the toiler, the lover of the poor”, the words of Eamon de Valera, who delivered the funeral oration, and with whom she had founded the Fianna Fáil Party.

Lissadell, 2022.

Two of Josslyn’s sons, Hugh and Brian, were killed in WWII. Hugh, the younger brother, studied estate management in England to run the estate. Brian joined the Navy. The third son, Michael, suffered from mental illness that made him incapable of running the family estate. Josslyn was still alive at this stage, and his four daughters continued to live on the estate – three of them never married. When their father died in 1944, the government assumed responsibility for the administration of the estate when Sir Josslyn’s eldest son was made a ward of the court after a nervous breakdown. Gabrielle took over the responsibility of running the estate at the age of just 26. [8] There was a youngest son also, Angus Josslyn, who succeeded as 8th Baronet. When Gabrielle died, Aideen took over the estate. For decades, the family struggled to maintain the house and the gardens became neglected and overgrown.

The family migrated to live in the bow-room and a small suite of rooms behind when the family of Gore-Booth siblings were living in near poverty in the 1960s and 70s, when the remainder of the house was uninhabited.

During this time the estate went into sharp decline, resulting in the felling of much fine woodland and the compulsory sale in 1968 of 2,600 acres by the Land Commission, leaving only 400 acres around the house.

Terence Reeves-Smyth tells us in Irish Big Houses: “The Lissadell estate had fallen into decline after the death of Josslyn Gore Booth in 1944. Indeed, writing about Lissadell for the Sunday Times around forty years ago, the BBC’s Anne Robinson observed that “the garden is overgrown, the greenhouses are shattered and empty, the stables beyond repair, the roof of the main block leaks badly and the paintings show patches of mildew.” It also featured in the documentary “The Raj in the Rain.”

In 2003 Lissadell was put on the market by the 9th Baronet, Josslyn Henry Robert Gore-Booth (b. 1950), son of Angus the 8th Baronet. You can listen to his memories of Lissadell online, part of the Irish Life and Lore series. [9] It was purchased by Edward Walsh and his wife Constance Cassidy, to become home for them and their seven children.

In the Image publication Great Irish Houses we are told that Edward and his wife Constance commissioned David Clarke, an architect with Moloney O’Beirne, to prepare a conservation plan and restoration of the house began in 2004. Assistance and expert advice was received from Laurence Manogue, a consultant to Sligo County Council. [10]

Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.

The Image publications book tells us that there has been a great focus on the gardens, with regeneration of the flower and pleasure gardens. The alpine nurseries with its “revetment walls” (limestone and sandstone), terraces, and ornamental ponds had been neglected for half a century. Now the gardens are cleared and the orchards and two-acre kitchen garden have been reseeded. The plan, in many ways, is to resurrect the horticultural enterprise of Henry and Josslyn Gore Booth. Thirty-eight of an original seventy-eight daffodil narcissus cultivars developed by Sir Josslyn are now back in the ground at Lissadell.

Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell House and Gardens County Sligo Ireland, Photograph created by Peter McCabe, Tourism Ireland, 2015, taken from Ireland’s Content Pool care of Failte Ireland.
Lissadell House and Gardens County Sligo Ireland, Photograph created by Peter McCabe, Tourism Ireland, 2015, taken from Ireland’s Content Pool care of Failte Ireland.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is an extensive museum in the Cafe building, with areas dedicated to Constance Markievicz and W. B. Yeats.

Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
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Lissadell, 2022.
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Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
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Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022.
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Lissadell, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/32400813/lissadell-house-lissadill-co-sligo

[2] https://www.ardtarmoncastle.com/

[3] http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/search/label/County%20Sligo%20Landowners

[4] p. 11. James, Dermot. The Gore-Booths of Lissadell. Published by Woodfield, 2004

[5] https://theirishaesthete.com/2021/11/22/lissadell/

[6] p. 40, James.

[7] p. 214, Great Irish Houses. Foreward by Desmond FitgGerald, Desmond Guinness. IMAGE Publications, 2008.

[8] For more about Gabrielle and her struggle to manage the estate, see https://lissadellhouse.com/countess-markievicz/gore-booth-family/gabrielle-gore-booth/

[9] https://www.irishlifeandlore.com/product/sir-josslyn-gore-booth-b-1950-part-1/

This collection includes Patrick Annesley b. 1943 speaking about Annes Grove in County Cork; Valerie Beamish-Cooper b. 1934; Bryan and Rosemarie Bellew of Barmeath Castle County Louth; Charles and Mary Cooper about Markree Castle in Sligo; Leslie Fennell about Burtown in Kildare; Maurice Fitzgerald 9th Duke of Leinster and Kilkea Castle, County Kildare; Christopher and Julian Gaisford St. Lawrence and Howth Castle; George Gossip and Ballinderry Park; Nicholas Grubb and Dromana, County Waterford, into which he married, and Castle Grace, County Tipperary, where he grew up; Caroline Hannick née Aldridge of Mount Falcon; Mark Healy-Hutchinson of Knocklofty, County Tipperary; Michael Healy-Hutchinson, Earl of Donoughmore, son of Anita Leslie of Castle Leslie; Susan Kellett of Enniscoe; Nicholas and Rosemary MacGillycuddy of Flesk Castle, County Kerry and Aghadoe Heights; Harry McCalmont of Mount Juliet, County Kilkenny; Nicholas Nicolson of Balrath Estate; Durcan O’Hara of Annaghmore, County Sligo; Sandy Perceval of Temple House, County Sligo; Myles Ponsonby, Earl of Bessborough; Benjamin and Jessica Bunbury of Lisnavagh, County Carlow; Philip Scott of Barnfield House, Gortaskibbole, Co. Mayo; George Stacpoole of Edenvale House, Co. Clare; Christopher Taylour, Marquess of Headfort; Richard Wentges of Lisnabin Castle and Philip Wingfield of Salterbridge, County Waterford.

[10] p. 218, Image publications.

[11] Lissadell features in Irish Castles and Historic Houses. ed. by Brendan O’Neill, intro. by James Stevens Curl. Caxton Editions, London, 2002.

Featured in Mark Bence Jones, Life in an Irish Country House. Constable, London. 1996.

Featured in Irish Country Houses, Portraits and Painters. David Hicks. The Collins Press, Cork, 2014.

Featured in Irish Big Houses by Terence Reeves-Smyth

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Claregalway Castle, Claregalway, Co. Galway H91 E9T3 – section 482 accommodation

www.claregalwaycastle.com

Tourist Accommodation Facility – not open to the public
Open for accommodation in 2026: January 2-December 24

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 2023 Claregalway is listed in Section 482 as accommodation and is no longer open to the public, unfortunately! We were lucky to visit during Heritage Week in 2022. I am sure it will continue to host events and tours – keep an eye on the website. Accommodation is in the auxiliary buildings in the bawn but one may have access inside the tower house itself.

The tower house dates to the early half of the fifteenth century, according to radio carbon dating [1]. Across the road is the Franciscan Friary of Claregalway, built in 1240. The tower of the Abbey was built 200 years later, around 1440.

The Friary across the road. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The castle is part of the Barony of Clare, an administrative barony formed in the sixteenth century. The other major castle in this territory is Corofin. Before being designated a barony the area was part of the kingdom of Magh Seóla (“the level plain.” It was Clanricarde Burke territory, and the castle was damaged in battles between the Burkes of Clanricarde and the Burkes of Mayo.

The castle website tells us:

Located on a low crossing point of the River Clare, the castle controlled water and land trade routes, exacted tolls, and maintained Clanricarde Burke authority in the surrounding countryside, a region known in pre-Norman times as Magh Seóla (the level plain). By 1580, there was a network of Clanricarde Burke castles stretching from Lough Corrib to the River Shannon. The castle once had a six metre high bawn/defensive wall, an imposing gate-house, a moat as well as other buildings including a dining hall.

An article in the Galway Review from July 8th 2010 by Declan Varley tells us that the castle belongs to an eye surgeon Mr Eamon O Donoghue who has funded and overseen the restoration of the castle for the past decade, bringing in some of Europe’s top stonemasons and conservationists to ensure that the castle is returned to its original state. A major reconstruction programme was planned by conservation architect David Johnson, a former inspector of national monuments with The Office of Public Works, and and archaeologist Leo Swan was also involved.

When he purchased the castle, Eamon tells us in a lecture that one can view online, there were trees growing out of the top! [2] Mr. O’Donoghue studied archaeology in Maynooth for a few years, so this probably influenced him to make the decision to buy the castle.

The ancillary buildings also influenced O’Donoghue’s decision to purchase the castle and its surrounds. Evidence for a bawn was discovered, including the base of bawn turrets, and a mill pond, a gatehouse and a moat. A tower house was generally surrounded by an enclosed space called a bawn, which would contain ancillary buildings such as a bakehouse, brewhouse, chapel, storehouses, guard accommodation, and in the case of Claregalway, a mill. Farmers and fishermen would have lived outside the bawn.

One of the ancilliary buildings, this farmhouse was built toward the end of the eighteenth century and incorporates medieval stonework. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The area around the tower is called the Bawn, and there are beautiful stone buildings with stone window openings and hood mouldings. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The castle was owned by John Buckley Jr (formerly of Spiddal House), then living in Indonesia, who agreed to sell. When purchased, the tower was roofless and had no upper floors at all, it was just a shell. The roof of the castle had been removed in 1653, following the Siege of Galway by Cromwellian forces. When restoring, Mr. O’Donoghue did research to determine what sort of turret the castle would have had, and determined from what remained that it was probably similar to Isert Kelly Castle. Isert Kelly Castle was the principal seat of the MacHubert Burkes from the early 1400s. The three storey tower house was stronghold to the MacHuberts, later passing hands to the MacRedmonds, both of whom were branches of the De Burgo (Burke) family. [3]

O’Donoghue engaged many architects including Rory Sherlock. He had stonemasons from the Companions Guild in France, including Jean Baptise Maduit, the now current master mason from Chartres, who believed the belfry of the abbey, built in 1433, was built by the same person who built the tower house. The stonemasons in the Companions Guild in France have a seven year apprenticeship.

Most of the stonework has been done by Galway Stone Design, located at the castle, but these heads look genuinely rather old. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The ancillary buildings were also restored from a ruinous state.

Ancilliary building at Claregalway Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stonemasons from Galway Stone Design did renovation work, and included medieval motifs [4] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We came across the Claricarde Burkes on our visit to Portumna Castle in County Galway. William de Burgo (d. 1205) came to Ireland with Prince John in 1185, and was granted lands stretching from Cashel to Limerick. His brother Hubert, the castle website tells us, was a Justiciar of England. In 1193 William married the daughter of Donal Mor O’Brien, King of Thomond, thus securing a good relationship with the native rulers. His son Richard (d. 1241) suceeded him and was known as Lord of Connaught. Richard began the feudalisation of Connaught after military conquest. Richard was suceeded by his son Richard (d. 1248) and then Walter, who was created 1st Earl of Ulster.

Information board from Portumna Castle in County Galway.

The descendants of William de Burgo adopted Irish customs and clothing.

Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Portcullis and entry to the tower house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The pointed doorway is in the SE wall near the east corner. It opens into a small lobby with a guardroom on the left and a spiral stairway on the right. The tower is vaulted above the second floor. There are several mural passages and mural chambers at different levels and fireplaces at first and second floors. The presence of some corbels at parapet level indicate that there was a machicolation. When one enters the tower house, one sees just how much renovation work has been accomplished. It has been furnished with a collection of wonderful antique oak furniture.

Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle is the home of the Medieval Armoured Combat Ireland (MACI) team, so some of the weaponry on display must belong to them. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gauntlets to be “thrown down”! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us of a battle which took place nearby in 1504, the Battle of Knockdoe (Knockdoe in Irish is “cnoc tuagh”, literally “the hill of axes”). The military axe was the traditional weapon of the Irish Galloglass, the professional military caste in medieval Ireland. Literally meaning foreign young men or foreign young warriors, the galloglass had first come into Ireland from the Scottish Isles as early as the 13th century. Over the following centuries these men had established themselves under the patronage of different Gaelic Lords, first in Ulster but soon spread to other parts of the country. [5]

The battle was fought between the Clanricarde Burkes, led by Ulick, who had become the lord of Clanricard in 1485, and a combined force headed by the 8th Earl of Kildare, Gearóid Mór Fitzgerald. The official reason for this battle was that Ulick Burke had aggressively overstepped his authority in Connacht. He also married a sister or daughter of the Earl of Kildare, Eustacia, and she returned home claiming to have been mistreated. Furthermore, Burke was traditionally an ally of the Ormonds, who were enemies of the Fitzgeralds. The Fitzgeralds supported the royal House of York whereas the Ormonds were loyal to King Henry VII.

Near-contemporary accounts of the battle are found in the Annals of Loch Cé, the Annals of Ulster, the Annals of Connacht and the Annals of the Four Masters, as well as in The Book of Howth, a chronicle about the St. Lawrence family, who were represented in the Earl of Kildare’s army. The Book of Howth depicts the battle as an Old English victory over the Gaelic Irish. Interestingly, it portrays Clanricard as a full member of the Gaelic Irish community. The Clanricard de Burgos also used the alternative name of “McWilliam.”

The Garret Mór Fitzgerald (1455-1513), 8th Earl of Kildare, was at the time the crown’s lord deputy in Ireland. He held this office until his death in 1513. Between 1496 and his death Garret Mór did much to uphold and even extend royal power in Ireland and the campaign that led to Knockdoe arguably represents the height of Garret Mór Fitzgerald’s political and military power in Ireland. Although it has been described as a battle between Old English and the Irish, Fitzgerald’s army had many Irish as well, including Hugh Roe O’Donnell of Tyrconnell, some of the O’Neills, the O’Conor Roe, the McDermots of Moylurg, the McMahons from modern-day county Monaghan, the Magennises, the O’Reillys of Cavan, the O’Farrells of Longford, the O’Hanlons of Armagh, the Mayo McWilliam Burkes, and the O’Kellys. (see [5])

The website tells us that this battle took place five kilometres from Claregalway Castle and was one of the largest pitched battles in medieval Irish history, involving an estimated 10,000 combatants.

There was terrible slaughter and Burke’s army was defeated, though he himself survived. At least 3,000 men died in close, hand-to-hand combat.

Afterwards, the website tells us, Fitzgerald captured Claregalway Castle, taking some of Burke’s children as hostages. He then proceeded to Galway city whose mayor provided over 7,000 gallons of wine for the victors to celebrate with.

Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Ulick Burke of Clanricarde (d. 1544) became Earl of Clanricarde and Baron of Dunkellin, and was one of the earliest Irish Chiefs to accept Henry VIII’s policy of “surrender and regrant,” accepting Henry VIII as his sovereign. The website tells us that he was called in Irish Uileag na gCeann (‘Ulick of the heads/the beheader’), so he had quite a reputation!

The website tells us:

…known as Ulick of the heads because of his having taken many heads of defeated enemies. This charismatic figure travelled to meet Henry VIII at Greenwich Palace, London. There, as part of Henry’s ‘Surrender and Regrant’ policy in Ireland, Ulick knelt before Henry, accepting his claim as King of Ireland. In return, Ulick was granted the title of Earl of Clanricarde, along with lands and property near Dublin. Prior to visiting England, Ulick married Dame Marie Lynch, a rich widow from Galway city. Marie helped Ulick prepare for English court etiquette, and also taught him some English since Ulick spoke only Gaelic and Latin. Unfortunately, Ulick already had two other wives; Grainne O’ Carroll and his cousin Honora De Burgo. In the following generation, there were bitter wars of succession between the sons from these different marriages, and Connacht suffered as a consequence.

The website adds that “While at Greenwich, King Henry presented Burke with a gift of the so-called Irish Harp, the national symbol of Ireland, now held at Trinity College Dublin. Tradition says that Ulick brought this famous instrument back to Claregalway Castle with him, where its music likely echoed through the castle’s great hall.

Ulick’s son Richard, 2nd Earl of Clanricarde, fought the Irish for the British crown. The website tells us that Claregalway castle was the chief fortress of the powerful Clanricard de Burgo or Burke family from the early 1400s to the mid-1600s.

Richard Burke (1572-1635) the 4th Earl of Clanricarde built Portumna Castle which then became the Irish base for the de Burgo, or Burke, family.

Richard Bourke 4th Earl of Clanricarde was brought up and educated in England. He fought on the side of the English against Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone, and was knighted on the field at the battle of Kinsale. He was a protege of Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and married Frances Walsingham, who was the widow of the poet Philip Sydney (1554-1586) and of Robert Devereux, the 2nd Earl of Essex (1566-1601), favourite of Queen Elizabeth I.

Portrait of Frances Walsingham, along with her husband Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and in the small picture, Sir Philip Sydney. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us that Ulick Burke (1604-57), 5th Earl of Clanricarde, spent time at the castle during the late 1640s/early 1650s. He was the Royalist commander in Ireland for King Charles II in the closing stages of the English Civil War which had also extended into Ireland. Correspondence written by Burke from Claregalway Castle to the King  survives.

The website tells us: “In 1651 Claregalway Castle was captured by Oliver Cromwell’s commander for Connacht, the brutal Sir Charles Coote (later Earl of Mountrath), who made the castle his headquarters. The English Civil Wars combined with the Irish Rebellion were by then nearly over. Galway, a staunch Royalist stronghold, was the last town in Ireland to yield to Cromwellian forces but only after a dreadful nine month siege prosecuted by Coote. On 5April 1652, Galway’s leaders surrendered the town to Coote at Claregalway Castle. It is probably sometime after this that the castle was slighted, meaning that its battlements and bawn walls were demolished. In the centuries after this, the castle fell into disrepair.

We learned about this battle for Galway when we visited Oranmore Castle in Galway.

Claregalway Castle, 2022.
Claregalway Castle, August 2022.

The ground and first floors are both constructed under a vaulted arched ceiling. We saw a similar ceiling in Oranmore Castle, which did not have the wooden floored upper room within the space.

In the castle they have an amazing collection of carved chairs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We then went upstairs to the first floor. Tower houses built in the fifteenth century had complex internal layouts to distinguish the private from the public space.

You can see the holes in the walls where wooden beams were placed to form the mezzanine level. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This cupboard has 1716 carved into it so I assume it was made then. The castle has an amazing collection of furniture, in keeping with the history of the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The carving on the mezzanine level includes a “Clonfert angel.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
There is a beautifully carved balustrade holding the mezzanine level, and we can see the wickerwork on the ceiling as we have seen in several other castles. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Typical of tower houses of this period, Claregalway Castle has a great hall on the second floor, which is carried by a principal vault, and this great hall is very tall and open to the underside of the roof. The principal stair ends at the level of the hall, and a second stair rises from that level. Often in the case of towers of this type, this second stair gives access to a wall walk, as well as to lesser upper chambers. Tower houses of this type are heated by a central hearth, and often have window seats and window embrasures with carved rear arches and the windows often have multiple opes and ornate heads.

The tower houses of this type often have ornate arches and arcades on the end wall of the hall, and finely carved corbel courses. Tower houses of this type are found in Galway, Limerick, Cork and Tipperary, and include Barryscourt in County Cork (an OPW property which one can visit, the OPW website tells us that Barryscourt Castle was the seat of the great Anglo-Norman Barry family and is one of the finest examples of a restored Irish Tower House. Dating from between 1392 and 1420, the Castle has an outer bawn wall and largely intact corner towers).

The Great Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Great Hall is on the second floor and rises to the underside of the roof. Smoke from the hearth can rise to the open roof space which can be opened by a louver or vent. The apex of the restored roof of Claregalway is 10.74 metres from the floor of the hall, and it was built to impress.

The Great Hall upstairs has a beautiful wooden vaulted ceiling. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Great Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1620 Luke Gernon wrote about a visit to a tower house. He writes that the hall is the uppermost room, and once you go up to it, you won’t come down until the next day! You would first be presented by the lady of the house to the drinks of the house: first ordinary ale, then sack, then “olde ale” which you must not refuse. You would then wait by the hearth until dinner was served, and then housed in a chamber for sleep. Next morning you are woken with “aquae vitae.”

The Great Hall also contains an amazing ancient bed from 1542. Our guide told us nobody sleeps there, the bed is much too precious. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us that there was an English military garrison stationed at the castle in the early 1700s. In 1791, a French diplomat, Coquebert de Montbert, passed through Claregalway while on a tour of Connacht. De Montbert described the castle as being in good condition, but without its roof and battlements.

Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A fifteenth century tithe box. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Great Hall also has a lovely carved table and chairs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Our told us that a person would be locked in this little room off the Great Hall until death. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us that at some point, either in the late 1700s or early 1800 centuries, there was a water-wheel and flax mill in operation at the castle. An etching by Samuel Lover in 1831, and an engraving by the artist William Henry Bartlett from about 1841, show the ruined castle, with the water-wheel, the original eleven-arched bridge beside the castle and the nearby Franciscan Friary.

The pointed gabled building is an old mill. You can stay here, it is listed in airbnb. https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/14114465?source_impression_id=p3_1679662757_YlhuSiBBwDrPwWNY [6] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Stay in one of our five beautiful rooms (River, Old Mill, Salmon Pool & Abbey) at the Old Mill & Manor House beside the Castle, a peaceful medieval gem on the banks of the River Clare in the village of Claregalway. Just 10km from Galway City Centre and within walking distance of a bus stop, restaurants/bars and the stunning Abbey. The room is very comfortable with under-floor heating and luxurious bedding. Includes complimentary wine, tea/coffee and a generous continental breakfast.

This room is directly adjacent to the Castle tower and you will have access to the tower and the delightful castle grounds.

Several of the ancilliary buildings contain the rental accommodation. You would be in august company, as in 1931, the actor Orson Welles, then a 16 year old unknown, stayed at the castle for a time as part of his travels in Ireland.

At Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At Claregalway Castle, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Claregalway Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The castle was used by the British as a garrison and as a prison for I.R.A. soldiers during War of Independence, 1919-21. The first Garda Siochána (Irish police force) station in the area was based at the castle for a short time.

[1] Sherlock, Rory, “The Evolution of the Irish tower-house as a domestic space,” Proceedings of the Royal Irish Academy: Archaeology, Culture, History, Literature, Vol. 111C, Special Issue: Domestic life in Ireland (2011), pp. 115-140 (26 pages). On jstor, https://www.jstor.org/stable/41472817?searchText=claregalway&searchUri=%2Faction%2FdoBasicSearch%3FQuery%3Dclaregalway%26pagemark%3DeyJwYWdlIjoyLCJzdGFydHMiOnsiSlNUT1JCYXNpYyI6MjV9fQ%253D%253D%26groupEfq%3DWyJtcF9yZXNlYXJjaF9yZXBvcnRfcGFydCIsInJlc2VhcmNoX3JlcG9ydCIsInJldmlldyIsImNvbnRyaWJ1dGVkX3RleHQiLCJzZWFyY2hfY2hhcHRlciIsInNlYXJjaF9hcnRpY2xlIl0%253D&ab_segments=0%2Fbasic_search_gsv2%2Fcontrol&refreqid=fastly-default%3A7ae9f72d176e602d3e7ffe99b9830622&seq=7

[2] https://vimeo.com/145863326

[3] https://www.visitgalway.ie/explore/heritage-and-history/castles/isert-kelly-castle/

[4] http://galwaystonedesign.ie/

[5] “Knockdoe (1504): the archaeological & historical significance of one of Ireland’s great but forgotten battles” by John Jeremiah Cronin & Damian Shiels, https://www.academia.edu/7720074/Knockdoe_1504_the_archaeological_and_historical_significance_of_one_of_Irelands_great_but_forgotten_battles

[6] There are five rooms for hire at Claregalway Castle, all in the adjoining buildings. They include the Salmon Pool Room that overlooks the river: https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/50861511?adults=1&children=0&infants=0&pets=0&check_in=2023-04-21&check_out=2023-04-28&federated_search_id=52e7355c-0ff4-4e32-aa2a-0396a81340a9&source_impression_id=p3_1679664073_NeN%2BDjcR1gH7%2BeS4

The ground floor of the Mill House: https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/609164612184674166?adults=1&children=0&infants=0&pets=0&check_in=2023-04-01&check_out=2023-04-06&federated_search_id=52e7355c-0ff4-4e32-aa2a-0396a81340a9&source_impression_id=p3_1679663992_IicuLQyygLufeUH7

The River Room Ground Floor

and River Room 1st floor: https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/20238047?adults=1&children=0&infants=0&pets=0&check_in=2023-04-12&check_out=2023-04-17&federated_search_id=52e7355c-0ff4-4e32-aa2a-0396a81340a9&source_impression_id=p3_1679664024_EeV59JqLSKaDA5wd

and the Abbey Room first floor: https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/51206687?adults=1&children=0&infants=0&pets=0&check_in=2023-04-01&check_out=2023-04-08&federated_search_id=52e7355c-0ff4-4e32-aa2a-0396a81340a9&source_impression_id=p3_1679664046_deQ2JWxlSN0T%2Fm6J

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Oranmore Castle, Oranmore, Co. Galway – Section 482 accommodation

www.oranmorecastle.com

Oranmore Castle is listed on Revenue Section 482 as tourist accommodation.

Open for accommodation: May 1-October 31 2026

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Oranmore Castle, photograph from flickr creative commons Johanna.

Oranmore Castle is a tall fourteenth or fifteenth century castle on the shore of Galway bay, lapped on two sides by the sea at high tide. The castle contains two very large vaulted halls, but we only saw one of them. It has four storeys, a rectangular tower house with a square staircase turret, and a great hall on the ground floor.

Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The pier was built in the nineteenth century when turf boats from Connemara brought their loads to the people of Oranmore. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We visited Oranmore Castle during Heritage week in 2022. I was excited to visit it as it belongs to a daughter of Castle Leslie in County Monaghan, another section 482 property which we have visited. Anita Leslie’s mother purchased it for her. At the time of our visit it was inhabited by Anita’s daughter Leonie and her husband Alec, who has since died.

The website welcomes us: “Welcome to Oranmore Castle — an exciting experience, which brings the mystery of the old alive and an eccentricity into the new. Oranmore Castle is a wonderful experience for people of all ages. Whether you come just to take a guided tour or whether you would like to create your own special event in the castle this is certainly an experience not to be missed! This enchanting castle sparks the imagination and is perfect for artistic retreats and alternative events, wedding ceremonies, concerts and workshops.

Just imagine getting married in the romantic and atmospheric setting of this charismatic space, certainly a day to be remembered! Run by dynamic husband and wife team Leonie (artist) and Alec Finn (noted musician of De Dannan) with a passion for the arts, the castle provides a unique, creative, welcoming and alternative space for people to reconnect with their artistic selves. Overlooking the magnificent Galway Bay, Oranmore Castle is a natural delight and will leave you feeling nourished, refreshed and inspired. Come and join in the fun and mystery or create your own history at Oranmore Castle, a place steeped in magic, tradition and eccentricity.

Photograph of photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “Oranmore Castle was built sometime round the fifteenth century possibly on the site of an older castle.

It was a stronghold of the Clanricardes who were a prominent Norman family of Galway. [The castle was recorded as being occupied by the Earl of Clanricarde in 1574]. In 1641 Galway was under the overlordship of the Marquess and fifth Earl Clanricarde. In March 1642 the town revolted and joined the Confederates with the Fort (St Augustin’s) still holding out.

Clanricarde placed a strong garrison in Oranmore castle, from which he provisioned the Fort of Galway from the sea until 1643 when Captain Willoughby Governor of Galway surrendered both fort and castle without the Marquess’s consent. In 1651 the castle surrendered to the Parliamentary forces.”

Portrait of Ulick, 5th Earl of Clanricarde (d. 1657). He was created Marquess of Clanricarde. He was Lord Deputy and Commander in Chief of Royalist forces against Cromwell in 1649. His Irish estates were lost but then recovered by his widow after the restoration of Charles II to the throne.

The 5th Earl of Clanricarde lived in Portumna Castle in County Galway. The town of Galway was held by the Confederates, who were mostly Catholic landowners. They wanted an end to anti-Catholic discrimination, and to have greater Irish self-governance. They were loyal to King Charles I, who was sympathetic to their cause. The Confederates formed their own parliament, in Kilkenny, and there was a period of Irish Catholic self-government between 1642 and 1649.

The Parliamentarians were supporters of Oliver Cromwell. Cromwell’s troops came to Ireland in 1649 to crush the alliance of the Confederates and the Royalists. Charles Coote, later 1st Earl of Mountrath, and his Parliamentarian troops fought the Confederates in Galway in 1651 and the town surrendered in 1652. The castles of both Oranmore and Claregalway were taken in 1651.

Charles Coote1st Earl of Mountrath (c.1610 –1661), 2nd Baronet, ca. 1642, before he was ennobled, Circle of William Dobson.

Hardiman’s History of Galway tells us: “The surrender [of Galway] was followed by a famine throughout the country, by which multitudes perished. This was again succeeded by a plague, which carried off thousands both in the town and the surrounding districts; so that the severest vengeance of heaven seemed now to have been poured down on the heads of this devoted community. Many, driven to despair by the severities inflicted upon them, instead of avoiding the pestilence, sought refuge in death from their merciless persecutors. This dreadful visitation continued for two years, during which upwards of one-third of the population of the province was swept away, and those who survived were doomed to undergo sufferings to which even death itself was preferable. Col. Stubbers, who was appointed military governor of the town upon its surrender, under pretence of taking up vagrants and idle persons, made frequent nightly excursions, with armed troops into the country, and seized upwards of a thousand people, often without discrimination of rank or condition, whom he transported to the West Indies, and there had sold as slaves.” [1]

The castle was restored to Richard Burke (c. 1610-1666), 6th Earl of Clanricarde in 1662 after King Charles II came to the throne. Many Catholics and Confederates were restored to their land after the restoration of the monarchy in 1661. 

The website continues: “In 1666 he leased the castle to Walter Athy. Mary, Walter’s daughter married secondly [her first husband, a Mr. French, had died] Walter Blake [c. 1670-1740] of Drumacrina Co Mayo, and her descendants by that marriage held Oranmore until 1853, when the estates of Walter Blake were sold to the Encumbered Estates Court.

Mary and Walter had a son, the exotically named Xaverius J. A. Blake. Their daughter Anne married Patrick D’Arcy of Kiltullagh, County Galway (now a ruin, unfortunately). The Blake family built a large house against the south side of the castle, but this was later demolished.

Oranmore Castle.

Xaverius (d. 1768) married a daughter of Charles Daly of Callow, County Galway, and had at least two sons, Walter (d. 1757) and Andrew (d. 1770). Walter married Bridget Daly, daughter of Denis Daly of Raford, County Galway (the house now at Raford, built by Francis Bindon, was built after they married but still stands, a beautiful three storey over basement house. It was advertised for sale in 2009). The other son, Andrew, died without any children. [2]

Walter Blake (d. 1757) and Bridget had a son, Xaverius (1752-1784). The Peerage website tell us that on his majority, Xaverius entered into possession of a rent-roll of £5,500 a year, together with £100,000 in ready money which had accumulated during his 16 year minority. With his wife he embarked on a career of such extravagance that by his death the greater part of the inheritance had been dissipated. He lived at Dunmacrina (or is it Drumacrina?), County Mayo, Ireland, and at Oranmore Castle. He married Isabella Knox, heiress to the Knox diamonds. Her father John Knox went by the nickname “Diamond” Knox, and he lived in Castlerea, County Roscommon. He was called “Diamond” Knox because of the large dowry which he gave his daughter Isabella, along with a large suite of diamonds, David Hicks tells us. [3] Diamond Knox marred Anne King, daughter of Henry King of Rockingham, County Roscommon. Upon Xaverius’s death there followed by lengthy litigation regarding the ownership of the Knox Diamonds, which was not settled until nearly a century later.

Isabella married again after Xaverius died, to Andrew Blake of Castlegrove, County Galway (the house is now a ruin).

Xaverius and Isabella had several children. Their son Walter Arthur Blake (d. 1836) lived at Drumacrina and Oranmore. He fought in the Irish Rebellion in 1798, for which he raised, equipped and maintained at his own expense a corps of Yeomen Cavalry in the King’s service. He held the office of Justice of the Peace. He married Mary Butler of County Clare, and they had a son, another Xaverius (d. 1838).

The Landed Estates database tells us that in 1786 Wilson mentions Oranmore as the seat of Denis Blake. He was a brother of Xaverius (1752-1784). In 1814 and again in 1837 Oranmore Castle is recorded as the seat of Walter Blake. At the time of Griffith’s Valuation he was leasing a property, valued at £10, in Oranmore townland, to Martin Grady. [4]

Xaverius (d. 1838) married Ellis Ussher, daughter of Christopher Ussher of Eastwell, County Galway. It was their son, Walter Augustus Blake (d. 1858) who sold Oranmore Castle to pay his debts in 1853.

The Landed Estates database tells us that Pádraig Lane writes that Walter Blake sold “Oran Castle” to James Dillon Meldon, a Dublin lawyer. [5] The Stillorgan History website tells us that James (1803-1883) was an agent to the Commission of Bankruptcy, with chambers at 16 Upper Ormond Quay and a solicitor of Casino, Milltown/Dundrum and Glencorrib, Mayo. He married Bedelia Louisa Ingram, daughter of John Ingham, Solicitor of Johnville, Cavan. He purchased land in Belmont near Tuam and restored it to the former tenants. He advanced them with money for farm implements, seed and horses with the help of his agent Thomas Jackson. He was a generous supporter of Dublin charities and he worked pro bono for the Sick and Indigent hotel and Inn
keepers charity. Their town house was 16 Fitzwilliam street and by 1873 they were at 24 Merrion Square. [6] This website doesn’t mention his ownership of Oranmore.

The website continues: “This house was left in ruins when the Blake family left Oranmore and the castle was un-roofed until 1947 when it was bought by Lady Leslie, a cousin of Churchill and wife of Sir Shane Leslie the writer.

We came across Shane Leslie (1885-1971), 3rd Baronet of Glaslough, County Monaghan and his wife Marjorie Ide in Castle Leslie, see my entry. [7]

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
Leonie Leslie, Shane Leslie’s mother. Originally Leonie Jerome, her sister Jennie was Winston Churchill’s mother.
The Castle must have looked like this when Lady Leslie purchased it.
The castle when the original Blake house had been demolished.

Lady Leslie purchased the property for her daughter, Anita – whom we also came across in Castle Leslie.

The tour guide showed us a copy of a letter which was sent to Leonie telling the story about how her mother purchased the castle. She must have been quite a character, the purchase seems quite impulsive! A leaflet from Oranmore tells us that Leonie Leslie was travelling around the west coast of Ireland with her friend Oliver St. John Gogarty. He had persuaded another American woman, Mrs Watson, to buy the castle from the Land Commission. Leonie Leslie then purchased it from Mrs Watson.

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
Oranmore Castle.

Anita Leslie had a very interesting life. She was an ambulance driver for five years in Egypt, Italy and France. She had been married first to a soldier from Russia, who had tried to save the Romanov family (see my entry for Castle Leslie). Secondly she married Bill King.

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
Oranmore Castle.

The website tells us that Lady Leslie re-roofed the castle and gave it to her daughter. She was certainly brave to take on such a dilapidated tower house! A cousin of Shane Leslie, Clare Sheridan, purchased the Spanish Arch in Galway around the same time. Lady Leslie discussed designing a roof for the castle with the County Engineer. Eventually he drew up plans for a cement roof, to be covered in asphalt.

Commander Bill King.
Bill King as a child, sent to Naval college at just twelve years old, our guide told us.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
Oranmore Castle.

The website tells us that between 1950 and 1960, Anita and her husband, Cmdr Bill King (also a writer who sailed solo around the world in 1970) added a two storey wing joined to the castle by a single storey range. A nursery and bathroom was first added when a baby was born. Ten years later, stone from a small Protestant church which was being demolished was purchased and used to build the second small tower, with the help of Michael Richardson. At the time of our visit, the castle was occupied by artist Leonie King (daughter of Anita Leslie and Bill King) and her husband Alec Finn of the music band De Danaan.

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
Oranmore Castle taken from the side facing the sea.

There was a marquis attached to the front of the castle for a Heritage Week event.

Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The two storey addition. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This is the entrance to the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Through the front door, one steps into the large vaulted chamber. It is difficult to capture in a photograph. The castle is a treasure trove of objects and furniture from around the world, and its inhabitants must be creative and artistic. Unfortunately we did not get to meet the owners.

The entrance to the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph from airbnb website entry for a stay in Oranmore Castle.

The fireplace was carved by Michael Richardson from Moycullen.

Photograph from airbnb website entry for a stay in Oranmore Castle.
Oranmore Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The poster of the Irish Tower House shows a tower house much like Oranmore. We can see the vaulted ceiling, and the way there may have been many floors below the vault. It explains that the mortared vaults were built directly on top of a wattle or wicker-work screen supported by a timber frame. When the frame was removed the wattle was left attached to the mortar and was over plastered over. Today the impression of the woven wattle screens can be seen on the underside of many of these vaults, as we can see on the ceiling in Oranmore. We also saw this effect in St. Mary’s Abbey house in Trim, County Meath (see my entry).

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
The large vaulted chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The square hole above the doorway would have been where a wooden beam was placed, to hold up a wooden floor. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A photograph of the family here in the castle, with Anita and her two children, Leonie and her brother, with the fireplace and the tapestry.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
You can see the thickness of the walls looking at this window. You can also see the vaulted ceiling with the marks from when the ceiling was made. It would have been originally built over a wickerwork frame, which was then removed. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Oranmore Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We did not get to see upstairs unfortunately, so I have to make do with photographs of the upstairs which were on display.

In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
The main upper room of the keep was once a soldiers’ dormitory and now houses a large wooden four-poster bed for the occasional guest, Oranmore, Copyright Ianthe Ruthven/The Interior Archive Ltd, IR_92_10.
In Oranmore Castle, August 2022.
This picture may have been taken in Castle Leslie in County Monaghan, of Leonie and her brother. It looks similar to the bed in which Stephen and I slept at Castle Leslie!
Leonie and her brother Tarka as children in the castle.
Photograph from airbnb website entry for a stay in Oranmore Castle.
A lovely picture of owner Leonie.

Another fascinating person in the extended Leslie family is Clare Sheridan, née Frewin. She was a sculptor and writer. Her mother was the third Jerome sister, i.e. sister of Jennie Jerome mother of Winston Churchill.

Oranmore Castle.

You can stay in Oranmore Castle! It is on airbnb, https://www.airbnb.ie/rooms/750577721156942923?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=df41c7c7-440c-4254-bb64-bcc281c67e14&source_impression_id=p3_1679423724_hQHjy8%2B%2F767VgiM0&modal=PHOTO_TOUR_SCROLLABLE

Photograph from airbnb website, of the bedroom one can stay in. One also has use of the main hall and a bathroom.

[1] http://www.galway.net/galwayguide/history/hardiman/chapter5/coote.html

[2] Blake family records, 1600 to 1700; a chronological catalogue with notes, appendices, and the genealogies of many branches, of the Blake family, together with a brief account of the fourteen ancient families of tribes of the town of Galway, and a description of the corporate arms used by that town at different periods; with an index to the records in the first part. Illustrated with photographs of various original documents and seals. 2d series. https://archive.org/stream/blakefamilyrecor00blakuoft/blakefamilyrecor00blakuoft_djvu.txt

[3] http://davidhicksbook.blogspot.com/2016/08/castlereagh-killala-co.html

[4] http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=O

[5] https://landedestates.ie/estate/579

[6] https://www.youwho.ie/meldon.html

[7] https://irishhistorichouses.com/2020/08/07/castle-leslie-glaslough-county-monaghan/

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Ash Hill, Kilmallock, County Limerick V35 W306 -accommodation, no longer section 482

www.ashhill.com 

Tourist Accommodation Facility

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Ash Hill, August 2022. This side of the house contains the former front door. The house was built in 1781 and “Gothicized” in the 1830s to the designs prepared by Charles Frederick Anderson. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ashill Towers, photograph taken  c.1865-1914 by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland, flickr constant commons. The two corner towers were taken down in the 1960s.

We treated ourselves to a stay during Heritage Week 2022! We had a lovely stay for three nights. It was formerly called Ashill Towers, but since the towers were taken down in the 1960s it is now called Ash Hill.

The website tells us: “Ash Hill is a large, comfortable Georgian estate, boasting many fine stucco ceilings and cornices throughout the house. For guests wishing to stay at Ash Hill, we have three beautifully appointed en-suite bedrooms, all of which can accommodate one or more cots…Open to the public from January 15th through December 15th. Historical tours with afternoon tea are easily arranged and make for an enjoyable afternoon. We also host small workshops of all kinds, upon request…For discerning guests, Ash Hill can be rented, fully staffed, in its entirety [comfortably sleeps 10 people]. Minimum rental 7 days.”

There is a bow in the east elevation of the house, and a lovely turret toward the front, or south side of the house, now covered in ivy. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Mark Bence-Jones writes in his Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988):

“(Evans/Carbery/ Johnson/ Harrington) A C18 pedimented house [the National Inventory tells us it was built in 1781], the back of which was rebuilt in Gothic 1833, probably to the design of James and George Richard Pain [the National Inventory corrects this – it was designs by Charles Frederick Anderson], with two slender round battlemented and machicolated towers. Rectangular windows with wooden tracery. Good plasterwork in upstairs drawing room in the manner of Wyatt and by the same hand as the hall at Glin Castle; saloon with domed ceiling. The towers have, in recent years, been removed. Originally a seat of the Evans family; passed in the later C19 to John Henry Weldon. Now the home of Major Stephen Johnson.” [1]

Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill Towers, Kilmallock, County Limerick, Ireland. Photograph album relating mainly to the Evans Family. Ref PA1-q-568-01-3. Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington, New Zealand. /records/22706869.

The website tells us: “In the 1830’s, Eyre Evans employed Charles Anderson, an architect, to build the front of the house in a Gothic style with two large towers on it. There are various Gothic features in this part of the house. Unfortunately, due to excessive rates (a valuation based property tax), some parts of the house, including the towers, were removed in the early 1960s.”

Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Above is the facade facing in to the courtyard. Mark Bence-Jones refers to this side as the front and the other side as the “back,” the Gothic side with its crenellated roof and limestone hood mouldings over windows and door. The National Inventory refers to this side as the “rear,” it is the north side of the house. It has a central pedimented breakfront and a Venetian window over the door, which is now the main entrance to the house. The doorway has side windows and a fanlight above with cobweb pattern and the door is set between two limestone pilasters. A second door also has similar tripartite setting of fanlight and sidelights. On the other side of the entrance door instead of the second door there is another Venetian window. [2]

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance door to Ash Hill. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website also tells us about its history:

The oldest evidence of habitation at Ash Hill is what is believed to be a long barrow grave dating somewhere between 4000 and 2000 B.C. This was described in letters written by Eileen Foster, an American visiting her ancestral home, Ash Hill, in 1908. Miss Foster wrote “close to the avenue, as they call it, although there are trees on only one side of the road, is a large green mound which is supposed to mark the burial place of one of the Irish chieftains and a number of his followers. It was the custom in those days to bury a dozen or so of his slaves with every chieftain. Father says he would like to explore the spot, but not a man could be found who would put a spade into the sacred earth”.

Also on the estate, beside the site of an old lake, there are the remains of a crannog (an Irish house built on a small island) usually dating prior to 1000 A.D. The lake was drained in the 1915 and during this process, the remains of numerous Irish Elk (deer from the interglacial period) were discovered.

Close to the lake, overlooking the town, is the site of Castle Coote, birthplace of Lieutenant General Sir Eyre Coote, conqueror of India. This castle was demolished in the later half of the eighteenth century.

The courtyard to the main house was built sometime between 1720 and 1740 and it was sympathetically restored in the 1950’s by the late Mrs. Denny Johnson. The present house, which overlooks this courtyard, was built by Chidley Coote in 1781.

The entrance door faces on to a stable courtyard. The stables have lovely lunette half-moon windows surrounded in red brick.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The National Inventory tells us that the entrance carries the Evans family motto.

Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There are two entrance halls, one for each of the doors facing into the stable yard. Both have beautiful plasterwork.

The website tells us: “The first recorded ownership of Ash Hill was in 1667 when Chidley Coote acquired the property from Catherine Bligh.” [3]

Lt-Col. Chidley Coote (c. 1644-1702) married Catherine Sandys and had a son, who became Reverend Chidley Coote (1678-1730). He lived at Ash Hill. He married Jane Evans, daughter of George Evans (1658-1720) of Bulgaden Hall, County Limerick, MP for Limerick. Jane’s mother was Mary Eyre, of Eyrecourt, County Galway, and it is thanks to her that the name “Eyre” entered the family.

A daughter of Lt.-Col. Chidley Coote and Catherine née Sandys, Catherine, married Henry Boyle, 1st Earl of Shannon.

Henry Boyle, 1st Earl of Shannon by Stephen Slaughter.

Reverend Chidley Coote (1678-1730) and Jane née Evans had a son in 1726, Eyre Coote (ca. 1726-1783), born at Ash Hill which was known as Castle Coote at that time. Castle Coote in County Limerick is not to be confused with Castlecoote in County Roscommon, another Section 482 property. See my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2025/09/17/castlecoote-house-castlecoote-co-roscommon/ .

The Ash Hill website tells us: “General [Eyre] Coote went on to become one of the greatest military tacticians of the eighteenth century with numerous victories to his credit, including winning India from the French in the Seven Years’ War and defeating Hyder Ali despite being outnumbered by almost twenty to one. This same victorious pattern was to be repeated in battles throughout the war.

Lieutenant General Sir Eyre Coote (1726-1783) Commander-in-Chief in the East Indies (1777-1783) by John Thomas Seton, courtesy of the British Library.
Eyre Coote (1726-1783) attributed to Henry Robert Morland, c. 1763, National Portrait Gallery of London NPG124.

I am currently reading a book about George Macartney (1737-1806), Earl of Lissanoure, County Antrim, an ancestor of my husband Stephen. He worked for the East India Company for a few years in India and himself and Lieut. Gen. Eyre Coote disagreed with each other and took a dislike to each other!

George Macartney (1737-1806) 1st Earl, by Joshua Reynolds, courtesy of National Trust Petworth House.

As well as Lt-Col Eyre Coote (1726-1783) there were three sons of Reverend Chidley Coote (1678-1730) and Jane Evans: Robert Coote (d. 1745) who married Anne Purdon of Ballyclough, County Cork (now partly demolished); Reverend Charles Coote (1713-1796) who married Grace Tilson; and Thomas Coote who married Eleanor White of Charleville, County Cork.

Reverend Charles Coote (1713-1796) had a son Charles Henry Coote (1754-1823) who became 2nd Baron Castle Coote on 2 March 1802. Another son of Reverend Charles was Lt-Gen. Eyre Coote (1762-1823) who was Governor of Jamaica.

The website continues: “Coote’s nephew, Sir Eyre Coote, who was born at Ash Hill in the late eighteenth century, became the Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica between 1806 and 1808. It has been said that Coote, while living in Jamaica, had a relationship with a slave girl. Although unconfirmed, it is thought that Colin Powell, hero of the Gulf War, may be a descendant of this relationship.

Major-General Sir Eyre Coote, Governor of Jamaica, date 1805, Engraver Antoine Cardon, After W. P. J. Lodder, Publisher A. Cardon, photograph courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

Reverend Charles’s daughter Grace Coote (circa 1756-1823) married Reverend Henry Bathurst and their daughter Henrietta married Major Denis Mahon of Strokestown, who was killed by his tenants – see my Strokestown entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2023/03/09/strokestown-park-house-strokestown-co-roscommon/.

Robert Coote (d. 1745) and Anne Purdon lived in Ash Hill. They had a son, Chidley Coote (1735-1799) who also lived in Ash Hill. He married twice. By his second wife, Elizabeth Anne Carr, he had several children. His oldest son, Charles Henry Coote (1792-1864) inherited the title of 9th Baronet Coote, of Castle Cuffe, Queen’s County on 2 March 1802.

Charles Henry Coote (1794-1864) 9th Baronet By John Hoppner, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=42004929

The Landed Estates database tells us about Ash Hill: “The residence of a branch of the Coote family in the 18th century, possibly held from the Barons Carbery. Ash Hill is referred to by Wilson as the seat of Chudleigh Coote in 1786. Bought by Eyre Evans from Chidley Coote in 1794 (see sale rental 6 July 1878). Eyre Evans held the property in fee throughout the first half of the 19th century.” [4]

The Evans family who purchased the property in 1794 were related to the Cootes:

Jane Evans who married Reverend Chidley Coote was the sister of George Evans, 1st Baron Carbery. She also had a brother named Thomas Evans (d. 1753), of Millltown Castle in County Cork. Thomas Evans married Mary Waller of County Limerick, and they had a son, Eyre Evans (1723-1773). Eyre of Milltown Castle married a county Limerick heiress, Mary Williams (d. 1825).

Milltown Castle in Charleville, County Cork, photograph courtesy of National Inventory, home of the Evans family.

Eyre and Mary had a son also named Eyre Evans (1773-1856). It was he who purchased Ash Hill Towers, and who hired Charles Frederick Anderson to renovate. He married Anna Maunsell of Limerick. This Eyre Evans was Justice of the Peace and Deputy Lieutenant of County Limerick.

Eyre Evans (1773-1856) and Anna Maunsell had many children. Their son, another Eyre (1806-1852), lived at Ash Hill, and married Sophia Crofton, daughter of Edward Crofton, 3rd Baronet Lowther-Crofton of The Moate, County Roscommon.

Eyre and Sophia’s son Elystan Eyre Evans (1845-1888) inherited Ash Hill. His father died when he was just seven years old.

The Landed Estates database tells us “Elystan Eyre Evans of Ash Hill Towers owned 2,148 acres in county Cork and 264 acres in county Limerick in the 1870s. Over 500 acres in counties Cork and Limerick including Ashhill Towers and demesne were advertised for sale in June 1877.” [5]

Elystan Eyre Evans married Isabella Smith in 1876, widow of Richard Beardsley, U.S. Consul General in Egypt, but they had no children.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, August 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Ash Hill website continues: “At about the time of the Famine, ownership of the estate passed out of the Evans family and, in 1858, part of the estate was acquired by Thomas Weldon. In 1860, another part of the estate was acquired by Captain Henry Frederick Evans. In 1880, Evans’ widow sold her interest in the estate to John Henry Weldon, a son of Thomas Weldon. 

The Evans family was a large family with many branches that emigrated to New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, England, Canada and U.S.A. One of the branch that emigrated to New Zealand was a prolific writer and much or possibly all of his writings were donated to the Alexander Turnbull library in Wellington, New Zealand. 

The estate passed out of the Weldon family to P.M. Lindsay in 1911. Captain Lindsay sold Ash Hill to Mrs. Denny Johnson in 1946. 

After Denise Johnson bought the property in 1946 she ran it as a successful stud, and she was a successful point-to-point rider with over 50 wins to her name. In 1956 she married Stado Johnson. After many falls she was told to “take up a safer sport then point-to point riding” by her doctor, she took up 3-day eventing and represented Ireland at an international level. 

Today, Ash Hill has been opened to the public and sees a great many people of varied interests. From architects to historians interested in taking a peek at Ireland’s unique past, all are welcome. Ash Hill is still owned by the Johnson family who enjoy sharing their love of history and the outdoors with the public. Most days, Simon and Nikki Johnson can be found wandering around the estate tending to the garden and pastures. For those interested, Simon can be happily talked into a full tour.

The other entrance hall. I love the black and white floor tiles. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Plasterwork in the entrance hallway. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stucco work in the hall. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Inside the bow window downstairs there is a beautiful drawing room with impressive plasterwork.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is also a lovely dining room which guests are invited to use.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Upstairs, there is another sitting room with another impressive ceiling – this one currently in a state of repair. Mark Bence-Jones says the ceiling is by the same hand as the one in Glin Castle. This is said to be possibly attributable to the Dublin stuccodores Michael Stapleton or Charles Thorpe and dates from 1780s. [6]

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The website tells us: “This part of the house has numerous ceilings of historical and architectural importance displaying dancers from Herculaneum which are similar to the stucco medallions found in the saloon at Castletown, County Kildare. Numerous windows, looking out onto the courtyard, date from this period and have the original glass.” © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glin Castle, photograph courtesy of Glin Castle website. The ceiling in the entrance hall is by the same stuccadore as the ceiling in Ash Hill.
Photograph courtesy of Glin castle website.
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The bedroom off the upper sitting room is also very decorative with a beautiful Gothic ceiling.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Even the hallway upstairs leading to the back staircase has a lovely arched ceiling and decorative plasterwork.

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us: “During the “troubled times” the house was occupied by three sets of troops who looted and vandalized the property, using ancient family portraits for target practice. As these “troubled times” were ending, Michael Collins, the Irish leader at the time, visited the house on his way south to what would be his violent and untimely demise at the hands of his enemies. There is a considerable amount of graffiti left on the walls of the top floor rooms which were occupied by both troops and prisoners.” We didn’t see this graffitti!

Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Our bedroom at Ash Hill, County Limerick. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ash Hill, 2022. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from our bedroom window at Ashill. © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We had a beautiful stay – you can see how relaxing it is in the surroundings. Nicole was very hospitable and one evening we sat in the drawing room downstairs and shared a great chat. It is a wonderful base for explorations of the countryside.

© Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988, Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[2] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/21813051/ash-hill-stud-ash-hill-kilmallock-co-limerick

[3] “The first recorded ownership of Ash Hill was in 1667 when Chidley Coote acquired the property from Catherine Bligh.” I think this was either Chidley Coote (d. 1668) son of Charles Coote (d. 1642), 1st Baronet Coote, of Castle Cuffe, Queen’s County, or his son Chidley Coote who died in 1702.

Charles Coote (1581-1642) was born in England and joined the military, held command of an infantry company in Munster from 1601 until some time after 1603. He was granted a reversion to the post of provost marshal of Connacht in June 1605. He built up land possession in Leitrim, Roscommon and Sligo. By 1617 he had married Dorothea, probably the younger daughter of Hugh Cuffe, plantation undertaker in Co. Cork, who brought property in Co. Cork and in Queen’s County to the marriage. He was created 1st Baronet Coote, of Castle Cuffe, Queen’s Co. [Ireland] on 2 April 1621. He had four sons and one daughter; the eldest son, also Charles (c. 1605-1661), became 1st earl of Mountrath.

He had another son, named Chidley (c. 1608-1668). Chidley married a daughter of Francis Willoughby, and secondly, married Alice Philips, by whom he had a son, Lt-Col Chidley Coote (c, 1644-1702), and another son, Philips Coote (b. 10 March 1658).

Lt-Col Chidley Coote (c. 1644-1702) married Catherine Sandys and had a son, who became Reverend Chidley Coote (1678-1730). He lived at Ash Hill. He married Jane Evans, daughter of George Evans (1658-1720) of Bulgaden Hall, County Limerick, MP for Limerick. Jane’s mother was Mary Eyre, of Eyrecourt, County Galway, and it is thanks to her that the name “Eyre” entered the family.

[4] https://landedestates.ie/estate/2417

[5] https://landedestates.ie/estate/2418

[6] See also https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/04/18/ash-hill/

Mount Trenchard House and Garden, Foynes, Co. Limerick – section 482

www.mounttrenchard.com

Open in 2026: Mar 2-6, 9-13, 16-20, 23-27, 9am – 2pm, May 3, 10, 17, 24, 10am – 5pm, Aug 15-24, 1pm – 5pm, Sept 1 – 30, excluding Saturdays, 1 pm-5pm,

Fee: adult €10, OAP/student/child €5, family €30 Concession: groups of 10 €70

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. The school lies to the right. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We visited Mount Trenchard during Heritage Week 2022. The owner is in touch with the original occupants of the house, the Spring Rice family, and they visited several times.

The Landed estates database tells us:

Lewis described this mansion formerly called Cappa as “beautifully situated on the banks of the Shannon”. Marked as “Cappo” on the Taylor and Skinner map of the 1770s. Home of the Rice/Spring Rice family in the 19th century, valued at £40 in the 1850s and at £54 in 1906. Occupied by the Military in 1944, sold to Lady Holland in 1947 and to the Sisters of Mercy in 1953 who opened a school.” [1]

The National Inventory tells us that the house was built in 1777, and it was originally a three bay three storey over basement house. [2] It has two bays in front, with an entrance door in a later added doorcase of Ionic pillars and a pediment, and a similar window case above. The door is surmounted by a fanlight. The centre window of each bow on the second storey is blocked up. The facade is of limestone, with cut cut limestone platbands to dividing storeys.

Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The school part of the property is to one side of the main house. The main house is currently being renovated.

The school attached to the house, opened in 1953 and run by the Sisters of Mercy. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Mark Bence-Jones tells us in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988) that there are Victorian additions either side of the main block and that the front entrance doorcase was a later addition. [3]

The back of Mount Trenchard which has a central bow. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard courtesy of Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland L_IMP_2908 by Robert French, Circa 1865-1914/1903?

The windows and a door in the back have red brick surrounds and arches over the outer bay doors.

Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This entire north east side of the house is a later addition of two storeys, Mark Bence-Jones tells us this is a Victorian addition. Although this addition is of two storeys, it is nearly as tall as the adjoining three storeys. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

When we were inside the house we were able to go out onto the stone balustraded balcony that is on top of this addition. It gives a lovely view over the gardens.

Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This is the door that leads out onto the balcony. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The estate was initially granted to Frances Trenchard on 20 June 1612 by a charter of King James I. He built a house there. The property was later owned by the Rice family.

Stephen Rice (1637-1715), Chief Baron of the Irish Exchequer, and a supporter of James II, wedded Mary, daughter of Thomas FitzGerald, of County Limerick. Stephen Rice came from Dingle, County Kerry and was Catholic. He was a lawyer and had many landholders as his clients, including several from County Limerick. After the battle of the Boyne (1 July 1690), Rice accompanied King James II to France, although he was soon back in Ireland, in January 1691. [4] I am not sure when the property passed from Trenchard to Rice hands.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that an incomplete patent conferring the title of Baron Monteagle on Rice was allegedly found among the papers of James II after the battle of the Boyne. The title was revived in September 1839 and granted to Thomas Spring Rice (1790–1866) of Mount Trenchard, Co. Limerick, who became Baron Monteagle of Brandon.

Portrait of Thomas Spring Rice, MP (1790-1866), Chancellor of the Exchequer, later 1st Baron Monteagle, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

It was Stephen’s son, Thomas, who had Mount Trenchard built much as we see it today, in 1777. Thomas married another Mary Fitzgerald, this one was daughter of Maurice the 14th Knight of Kerry. Thomas was also a lawyer. They had a son, Stephen Edward Rice (d. 1831). He married, in 1785, Catherine, only child and heiress of Thomas Spring, of Castlemaine, County Kerry.

Stephen Edward and Catherine Rice had a daughter Mary who married Aubrey De Vere, 2nd Baronet of Curragh Chase, Co. Limerick. [5]

Aubrey de Vere, 2nd Baronet de Vere, Curragh Chase, County Limerick, courtesy Adam’s auction 11 Dec 2012, Irish School (Late 19th Century). Stephen Edward and Catherine Rice had a daughter Mary who married him.
This is not the original staircase, which was allegedly spectacular! If the one in Eyrecourt is anything to go by, which was sent to a museum in the United States, it may have been impressive. It was probably replaced during the time when the nuns occupied the building. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Their son was Thomas Spring-Rice (1790-1866). He married in 1811 the Lady Theodosia Pery, second daughter of Edmund, 1st Earl of Limerick. She brought with her a large dowry. Thomas Spring-Rice was Member of Parliament (M.P.) (Whig) for Limerick between 1820 and 1832, and served in many positions in government, including Chancellor of the Exchequer between 1835 and 1839.

As well as his property in County Limerick, he had property in London, Dublin and Kildare.

Thomas Spring-Rice actively sought to improve the welfare of tenants and of the underprivileged. He led an inquiry into the alleged ill-treatment of inmates in Limerick Lunatic Asylum. He also advocated the end of slavery. He also brought improvements to Limerick, such as having a new bridge built over the River Shannon. He was a supporter of Catholic Emancipation. There is a statue of him Pery Square in Limerick, which looks down on the People’s Park, which was erected due to gratitude for his work toward Catholic Emancipation.

Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The wooden fireplaces replaced originals which were sold by the late Knight of Glin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

He lost his seat in 1832 but was returned for a seat in Cambridge, so he sat in Parliament in England. Although he supported Catholic emancipation didn’t support repeal of the Act of Union, which disappointed many of his supporters. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that he referred to himself as a West Briton, and may have coined this phrase.

Thomas was elevated to the peerage in 1839 to become 1st Baron Monteagle of Brandon, County Kerry. The Dictionary of Irish Biography gives us a good summary of his subsequent views:

With his removal to the lords, Monteagle took little part in public life till roused by the famine. An improving, paternalistic landlord, during the crisis years he was characterised by his concern for his tenants, energetic attempts to influence policy, and a mounting bitterness towards the government. His correspondence with the treasury and board of works is of considerable value in helping to elucidate the official government position. His letters and speeches in the lords were studded with rhetorical invective against Britain’s long mistreatment of Ireland. Holding landlords to be as much victims of British mismanagement as tenants, he rejected forcibly any claim that they should be held responsible and continually advocated state intervention, though he felt it should not be limited to road works, but extended to agricultural improvements. He did not accept fixity of tenure, since he felt Irish peasants too prone to subletting. His own experience as a landlord bore this out and he considered overcrowding as the principal evil of Irish agriculture. A strong advocate of state-assisted emigration, he was successful in bringing the lord lieutenant, Lord Clarendon, over to his viewpoint, but not the government as a whole. He personally assisted numerous tenants to emigrate and then acted as mediator between them and their families still on his estate.” [6]

Mount Trenchard, 2022.
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022.

Thomas Rice Spring’s son Stephen died tragically at sea in 1865, and thus a grandson, Thomas (1849-1926) inherited the family property and the title to become 2nd Baron Monteagle in 1866.

Portrait of Thomas Spring Rice (1849-1926), 2nd Baron Monteagle, by Charles Wellington Furse courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

The caretaker Tommy showed us the family bible, which follows the tradition of writing births and deaths in the family inside the covers. Here we can see the births recorded of Stephen and his wife, Ellen Mary Frere. They had many children. A daughter Mary married Edward William O’Brien of Cahermoyle House in County Limerick, whose father was the politician, Nationalist and leader of the Young Irelander movement William Smith O’Brien (1803–64).

William Smith O’Brien (1803-1864) by George Francis Mulvaney, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland P1934.
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Thomas (1849-1926) was popular with the locals and helped to promote the Co-operative Creamery Movement in Limerick, and was a friend of Horace Plunkett. He held the office of Deputy Lieutenant (D.L.) of County Limerick.

Thomas the 2nd Baron married Elizabeth Butcher in 1875, daughter of the Bishop of Meath. Their daughter Mary (1880-1924) became a passionate advocate of Irish independence. She was influenced by her cousin Nelly O’Brien, from Cahermoyle House in County Limerick. She learned Irish and hired a native speaker from Kerry to teach classes in the local national school. [7] The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that she was an early member of the United Irishwomen, founded in 1910 as a sister organisation to the Irish Agricultural Organisation Society (IAOS) of Horace Plunkett, to encourage countrywomen’s industries and handicrafts. In 1911 she was on the executive of the Limerick branch of the Irish Countrywomen’s Association.

Most famously, she was involved with bringing guns from Germany into Ireland with Erskine Childers in his boat the Asgard. Her Asgard diary was published in Martin, Howth gun running (1964). Mount Trenchard was used as a safe house for member of the IRA during the War of Independence. There are tunnels underground which could lead down to the Shannon estuary.

Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mary Spring Rice (1880-1924) and Molly Childers aboard the Asgard during the Howth gun-running.

In 1940 the house was let and occupied by a unit of the Irish Army, and they remained there for the duration of WWII.

The 3rd Baron Monteagle did not marry, and his uncle, Francis Spring Rice (1852-1937) became 4th Baron Monteagle of Brandon, of Brandon, Co. Kerry in 1934. He gained the rank of Commander in the Royal Navy. In 1882 he married Elizabeth Ann Fitzgerald, daughter of Peter George, 1st Baronet FitzGerald, of Valencia, Co. Kerry (son of the 18th Knight of Kerry). It was their son Charles who became 5th Baron Monteagle. The 4th Baron later married his wife’s sister, after his wife died. She was the widow of Stephen Edward Spring Rice (1856-1902), grandson of 1st Baron Monteagle.

Charles Spring Rice (1887-1946) joined the military and fought in WWI. When the 5th Baron Monteagle of Brandon died in 1946, the estate was sold. In 1954, the Sisters of Mercy acquired the estate and ran it as a private boarding school for girls, called Stella Maris. [8] It was later sold again, and is now being renovated. The caretaker gave us a wonderful tour of the house and showed us details of renovation, as well as bringing us out to the walled garden, where he has done great work.

It’s a lovely walk from the back garden up to the walled garden. Our tour guide also does the gardening and the walled garden is productive as well as beautiful.

Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mount Trenchard, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=M

[2] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/21900909/mount-trenchard-mounttrenchard-co-limerick

[3] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988, Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[4] https://www.dib.ie/biography/rice-sir-stephen-a7660

[5] https://www.curraghchasecaravanpark.com/history-of-curraghchase

[6] https://www.dib.ie/biography/rice-thomas-spring-a7661

[7] https://www.dib.ie/biography/rice-mary-ellen-spring-a7658

[8] http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2014/12/mount-trenchard-house.html

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Glenville House, Glenville, Ardagh, Co Limerick V42 X225 – section 482

Open dates in 2026: Apr 1-30, May 1-30, June 2-10, Tue-Sat, Aug 15-23, 9.30am-1.30pm

Fee: adult/OAP/student €5, child free

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
An old photograph of Glenville.

We visited Glenville during Heritage Week 2022. Owen and his wife were very welcoming! There was one other couple who joined us on our tour.

We drove up a long drive with fields on either side, to a stone courtyard entrance, with geraniums in tubs on either side of a fine carriage entrance. The farm buildings have semi-circular lunette windows in the upper level and brick surrounds to the windows. A Keystone reads: ‘WM/AD/1803’ and the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage tells us that Glenville was built in 1803 by William Massey (1747-1830). [1]

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Massy family are descended from a Cromwellian soldier Captain Hugh Massy (d. 1691) who was granted 3,055 acres in County Limerick, for his military services. He came over to Ireland in the 1600s and helped to quell the 1641 uprising against the Crown. His grant included the lands of Duntrileague, County Limerick, where the Massy family settled. [2]

Hugh (d. 1691) had a son, also named Hugh (1658-1701), of Duntrileague, whom married Amy Benson and had several children.

His son William (1680-1768) purchased Stoneville, in County Limerick. Stoneville was built in 1730 as a hunting lodge for Henry Southwell and bought by William Massy in 1758 (it still stands and is privately owned [3]). It was the branch descended from William (1680-1768) of Stoneville who lived in Glenville.

Stoneville, County Limerick, photograph courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage (see [3]).

The Massys were a prominent family in the area.

Another son of Hugh (1658-1701) of Duntrileague, Colonel Hugh Massy (b. 1685), was father to Hugh (1700-1788) who was was created 1st Baron Massy of Duntrileague, Co. Limerick. Another son of Colonel Hugh, Eyre Massy (or Massey), distinguished himself in the military and was created 1st Baron Clarina of Elm Park, Co. Limerick (Elm Park no longer stands but there remains an impressive gate lodge [4]).

Hugh (1658-1701) of Duntrileague’s daughter Margaret married William Baker (c. 1680-1733), who purchased Lismacue in County Tipperary, another Section 482 property which we may never be able to visit as it is only listed for whole house accommodation so is not open to visitors.

Another son of Hugh (1658-1701) of Duntrileague, Reverend Charles Massy (1688-1766), held the office of Dean of Limerick between 1740 and 1766, and was father of Hugh Dillon Massy (d. 1807), 1st Baronet Massy, of Doonass. Co. Clare.

William Massy (1680-1768) of Stoneville, County Limerick married the Anne, daughter of John Bentley who had received land at Hurdlestown, County Clare. William’s oldest son Hugh (d. 1790) inherited Stoneville. [5]

Another son of William (1680-1768) of Stoneville, John (c. 1720-1812), purchased the estate of Glenville. [6] He held the office of Treasurer of Limerick. He married Mary Agnes Studdert, daughter of Reverend George Studdert who was Rector at Kilpeacon and in Rathkeale in County Limerick (we will be visiting the rectory at Rathkeale later this year, another section 482 property!).

Glenville House, County Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The current owners, Owen and his wife, told us that the oldest part of the house, the kitchen, was built in 1750, so this must have been built by John Massy.

Along with his heir, William (1747-1830), John and Mary Agnes had a son Hugh who joined the military (1748-1814), daughter Anne who married Richard Yeilding of Belview, County Limerick (no longer exists) and Mary Agnes who married William Yeilding, a cousin of her sister’s husband.

We entered the house through this door, directly into the kitchen, the oldest part of the house. The door faces into the large stableyard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The kitchen dates from 1750. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

John’s son, William (1747-1830) added later additions to the house at Glenville in 1803. He married Ann Creagh, daughter of Andrew Creagh of Cahirbane, County Clare. They had as many as twenty-three children, several of whom died young. Some of his sons joined the military and some others, the clergy.

The National Inventory tells us that Glenville is a :”Detached three-bay two-storey country house, dated 1803, having six-bay block to north (rear) elevation, extending to east of main block and adjoining L-plan multiple-bay two-storey outbuilding. Central full-height breakfront to south (front) elevation. …Flat arched opening to east elevation with cut limestone surround, voussoirs and keystone, and double-leaf timber battened door… Lunette [i.e. half-moon] openings to first floor, east and west elevations, having tooled limestone sills, red brick surrounds and timber framed windows…

…Its size and massing make it a very notable feature on the landscape and the regular façade and restrain in ornamentation adds to the imposing appearance. The retention of timber sliding sash windows and limestone sills is significant, and adds to the architectural significance of the site. Symmetry is evident in the design and is enhanced by the hipped roof, central chimneystacks and breakfront. The outbuildings, walled garden to the rear, and gate lodge all serve to add context to the site. Keystone reads: ‘WM/AD/1803’.” (see [1])

The front entrance to the house. The stable courtyard lies behind. It is a three-bay two-storey country house with a six-bay block to north (rear) elevation. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The owners have restored the house beautifully. They showed us photographs of the house from when they purchased it, and it shows how much work they have accomplished.

Limestone carriage arch into the stable yard, with lunette windows in the upper level. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The keystone of the arch has the date 1803 and initials, WM. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

It is interesting to see that the Massys added the courtyard to the rear in Stoneville and it has features similar to Glenville. In Stoneville there is an ornate limestone carriage arch surround with date plaque of 1802, and lunette windows.

Stoneville’s carriage arch, and lunette windows similar to Glenville. Photograph courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.
The keystone on the carriage arch in Stoneville, County Limerick, also installed by the Massy family. Photograph courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

William’s son, John (1773-1846), lived in Glenville, with his wife Mary Anne Travers and family. He was a captain in the British Army. His son William (c. 1801-1863) then inherited the property. He sold it then to his uncle Eyre Massy (1786-1869).

Eyre Massy had married Mary Bruce in 1818, daughter of Reverend Jonathan Bruce of Milltown Castle, County Cork (no longer standing although some outbuildings remain). The next generation to live at Glenville was Eyre’s son Jonathan Bruce Massy (1821-1903). He was a Justice of the Peace, and he married Frances Catherine Bruce, a first cousin, daughter of his mother’s brother George Evans Bruce. They had two daughters, Frances Mary Massy (1867-1956) and Mary Bruce Massy (1869-1935).

The property of Glenville passed through the male line rather than to Jonathan Bruce Massy’s daughters. It passed to a son of Jonathan Bruce Massy’s brother, Henry Eyre Massy (b. 1830), who had emigrated to Australia. This son, Eyre Henry Massy (b. 1868) sold Glenville in 1912 to one of Jonathan Bruce Massy’s daughters, Frances Mary Massy (1867-1956).

Frances Mary had married Thomas Crawford Coplen-Langford in 1903, the same year in which her father died. Her husband died just two years after she purchased Glenville from her cousin in 1912. His family was from Kilcosgriff Castle in County Limerick.

The Landed Estates database tells us that the house came into the ownership of the Langford family, relations of the Massys in the early 20th century and they were still resident there in the 1970s. [7] The Langford family was related to the Massys via the Coplen-Langford family.

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The current owners purchased the property after it had been lived in by two single elderly ladies, who were Langfords.

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The fanlight over the front door is mirrored by one inside the front hall. One of the doors is false, and is there for symmetry.

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The fireplace reminds me of that in the basement of Strokestown in County Roscommon, made of limestone, surrounded with what looks like Kilkenny marble.

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Upstairs has a lovely landing, with this conversation chair, suitable for courting couples and a chaperone! The current owners found the paintings in the house. They belonged to the previous owners, the Langfords. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the bedrooms has a lovely four poster bed. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick.

The house has a walled garden, and a lovely walkway by the river.

Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At Glenville House, Limerick, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is a sulphur well on the property, of the sort used for healing baths such as in Lisdoonvarna.

It may be difficult to see but this is an old bridge, over the river, and it was the original road. The Massys had the road moved, presumably to skirt around their property. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/21902807/glenville-house-glenville-ardagh-co-limerick

[2] https://landedestates.ie/family/574

[3] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/21902008/stoneville-stoneville-co-limerick

[4] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/21901230/elm-park-house-ballybrown-clarina-co-limerick

[5] William Massy and Anne Bentley had several daughters who married into families in County Limerick.

Amy (d. 1784) married Anthony Parker of Castle Lough, County Tipperary.

Elizabeth Massy married Charles Minchin of Ballygibbon and Greenhills, County Tipperary

Margaret Massy married Garret Fitzgerald of Kilgobbin, County Limerick.

Catherine Massy married William Greene of Ballymacreese, County Limerick

and Anne married William Finch of County Cork.

[6] https://www.thepeerage.com/p25329.htm#i253287 The Peerage quotes Hugh Montgomery-Massingberd’s Burke’s Irish Family Records. (London, U.K.: Burkes Peerage Ltd, 1976).

[7] https://landedestates.ie/property/2247

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Strokestown Park House, Strokestown, Co. Roscommon – section 482

www.strokestownpark.ie

Open in 2026: Jan 12-Dec 22, Jan-Feb, Nov-Dec 10.30am-4pm, Mar-Apr, Sept-Oct, 10am-5pm, May-Aug, 10am-6pm

Fee: adult house €15, tour of house €19, child €7.50, tour of house €10.50, OAP/student €12.50, tour of house €15, family €31.50, tour of house €39.50

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Image by Chris Hill, 2014, Tourism Ireland, from Ireland’s Content Pool. [1]
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Archiseek website describes Strokestown Park house as “a substantial house in the Palladian manner of a central block flanked by wings and curved sweeps. The centre block was completed in 1696 but extended around 1730 by Richard Cassels who added the substantial wings. The house was further altered in 1819 by J. Lynn.” [2]

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon.

We visited Strokestown Park in County Roscommon during Heritage Week 2022. It houses the excellent National Famine Museum and Archive, which is really worth visiting. It sounds grim, but it is a great exhibition and it tells us so much about people’s lives that it is not a grim museum at all. It also tells us about the Pakenham-Mahons, the family who lived in the impressive Strokestown Park. Strokestown Park was the home of the first landlord to be assassinated during the height of the Great Famine of Ireland the 1840s, and it is therefore ideal for the location of the Famine Museum.

In 1979 Nicholas Hales Pakenham Mahon sold the estate to Westward Garage, founded by Jim Callery. The new owners allowed the last of the Mahon family, Olive and her husband Wilfrid Stuart Hales Pakenham Mahon, to remain living in the house until she moved to a nursing home.

Despite no longer being in the hands of the original owners, the house contains the original furnishings and fittings. The house is unchanged from the time when the Mahons lived there.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

The Museum was created when Jim Callery, founder of the Westward Garage which purchased the property, found documents relating to the famine in the family archives. Jim Callery and the Westward Garage carried out a major restoration programme and opened the property to the public. Since 2015, Strokestown Park is cared for by the Irish Heritage Trust, an independent charity. Produce from the original working gardens are grown by volunteers and used in the Strokestown Park Café.   

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

The website tells us that the house is built on the site of the 16th-century castle, home of the O Conor-Roe Gaelic Chieftains. Before being called “Strokestown House” the property was called “Bawn,” in reference to the bawn of the O Conor-Roe castle.

Nicholas Mahon, a captain in King Charles I’s army, was granted Strokestown as a royal deer park in 1653. Later, after pledging allegiance to King Charles II, he received more land. He was High Sheriff of County Roscommon, 1664-76. [3] He received over 3000 acres in 1678. He started to build a house, which was completed after his death in 1680, in 1696. Terence Reeves-Smyth tells us in his book Irish Big Houses that there is a stone by the door which has 1696 carved into it – the stone is now inside the house.

Strokestown Park featured as Building of the Month in December 2015 on the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage, and it tells us about the 1696 house:

Evidence of this house survives to the present day at basement level where a panelled still room, previously one of the principal reception rooms, retains a rosette-detailed Jacobean chimneypiece, an egg-and-dart-detailed plasterwork overmantle decorated with fruits and shells, and a compartmentalised ceiling with dentilated moulded plasterwork cornices. Some earlier remains of the castle are also found in the basement where sections of the walls measure almost three metres deep. Memories of the medieval past were carried through into the nineteenth century when the house was still officially called, and was referred to by Isaac Weld (1832) and Samuel Lewis (1837) as “Bawn”.” [4] [5]

Stephen and I were able to see part of the interior of the house, despite the house being closed for restoration work at the time, by joining a Heritage Week talk about a photographic dark room which had been created in the house by one of its residents. Unfortunately we did not get to see the basement or the galleried kitchen.

Captain Nicholas married Magdalena French, daughter of Arthur French of Movilla Castle, County Galway. [6] They had several children. Their son Reverend Peter (d. 1739) became Dean of Elphin and married Catherine, daughter of Paul Gore of Castle Gore, County Mayo (otherwise known as Deel Castle, now a ruin), who was son of Arthur, 1st Baronet Gore, of Newtown Gore, otherwise known as Parkes Castle in Leitrim (see my Office of Public Works in Connaught, Counties Leitrim, Mayo and Roscommon entry).

Another son, Nicholas (c. 1671-1781) married Eleanor Blayney, daughter of Henry Vincent, 5th Baron Blayney of Castle Blayney, County Monaghan.

A daughter, Margaret, married Edward Cooper of Markree Castle, County Sligo (another Section 482 property which we visited).

Strokestown passed via another son, John (d. 1708), who married Eleanor Butler (daughter of Thomas, 3rd Baronet Butler, of Cloughgrenan, Co. Carlow), to their son Thomas (1701-1782). It was Thomas who built on to the 1696 house, to create a residence designed by Richard Cassells, in about 1730.

I think the portrait is of Thomas Mahon (1701-1782), who employed Richard Castle to built a house at Strokestown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Terence Reeves-Smyth tells us in his Irish Big Houses that the top storey and balustrade were added probably around 1740 when Richard Castle built the wings for Thomas Mahon. [7]

Richard Castle, or Cassells, (c.1690/95–1751) probably came to Ireland to work for Sir Gustavus Hume to design Castle Hume, Co. Fermanagh. [8] He then worked under Edward Lovett Pearce when Pearce worked on the Parliament Building in Dublin. Pearce died young and Castle succeeded to his practice. The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us:

He contributed significantly to the development of Dublin, designing the first imposing town houses in cut stone for the nobility, notably Tyrone House, Marlborough St. (1740–45), built for Marcus Beresford (1694–1793), later earl of Tyrone, and Leinster House, Kildare St. (1745–51), for James Fitzgerald, earl of Kildare, the grandest town house and since the 1920s the seat of Dáil Éireann. His commissions included 85 Stephen’s Green (c.1738), the first stone-fronted house on the Green, latterly part of Newman House; houses in Kildare St., notably Doneraile House (designed c.1743); and Sackville Place...Castle designed many country houses, including Belvedere, Co. Westmeath (designed 1740), which incorporated the ‘Venetian’ window, a common feature of his designs, and Ballyhaise, Co. Cavan (c.1733). By altering and enlarging many houses, he created grand country mansions (often with vaulted stables), notably Powerscourt, Co. Wicklow, with its magnificent Egyptian hall (built 1731×1740; damaged by fire 1974, and since partly restored), Westport House, Co. Mayo (1731–40), and Carton House, Co. Kildare (c.1739–45). Conolly’s Folly at Castletown estate, Co. Kildare (1740), a tall obelisk mounted on multiple arches, is attributed to him. He possibly collaborated with Francis Bindon on Belan House, Co. Kildare, complete with temple and three obelisks (1743), and Russborough, Co. Wicklow (c.1742–55).” [9]

Also designed by Richard Castle: Westport House, County Mayo (1731), photograph courtesy of Ireland’s Content Pool [1].
Newman House, St. Stephen’s Green (Museum of Literature Ireland), also designed by Castle (1738). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Also designed by Richard Castle: Carton House, County Kildare, renovations by Castle in 1739. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Carton House, County Kildare, renovations by Castle in 1739. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletown obelisk folly, also by Richard Castle (1740). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Also designed by Richard Castle: Belvedere, County Westmeath (1740). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Also designed by Richard Castle: Powerscourt, County Wicklow (1740) Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Russborough House, also designed by Richard Castle, 1742. Photo taken by Jeremy Hylton June 2012.
Russborough House, County Wicklow, also designed by Richard Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Also designed by Richard Castle: Leinster House, 1745 [Dublin, July 2022]. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The house has a seven-bay, three-storey over basement central block, with curved curtain walls linking it to flanking pavilions with four-bay principal façades. The centre block front facade has three bays in the centre with giant pilasters either side and two bays beyond on either side. The centre three bays have a central panel on the pediment and the two bays on either side of the pilasters have a balustraded pediment. The front door is set in a tooled stone doorcase with decorative brackets, with an ornate spoked fanlight, and is flanked by traceried sidelights.

Strokestown House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Most of what we see today was designed by Castle, but the house was resurfaced in 1819 and the portico added.

The portico was added around 1820. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage tells us that the pedimented archways to outer walls extending from pavilions give access to stable complex and kitchen yards. [10]

The flanking curtain walls have niches flanked by oculus windows on the upper part with tooled stone surrounds, and a Gibbsean doorcase with pediment over.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Flanking wall between main block and a pavilion block. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
An oculus window in the curtain wall has overgrowth of greenery on the other side! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Famine Museum is located in the stables. One enters via a Visitor Centre to one end of the complex.

Pedimented archways to outer walls extending from pavilions give access to stable complex and kitchen yards. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance to the Famine Museum, located in the stables. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Visitor Centre, located at one end of the stable courtyard, opposite the entrance to the stables and the Famine Museum. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside the Famine Museum, which is in the former stables. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1735, Thomas married Jane Crosbie, daughter of Maurice, 1st Baron Branden, of Ardfert, County Kerry, MP for County Kerry. Thomas Mahon later became MP, first for the Borough of Roscommon in 1739-1763 then for County Roscommon 1763-82, when he was called the “Father of the House.” [11]

I think this is Jane Crosbie, who married Thomas Mahon. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Thomas’s son Maurice (1738-1819), named after Jane’s father, married Catherine, daughter of Stephen Moore, 1st Viscount Mountcashell, in 1765. He inherited when his father died in 1782. He was granted a peerage for his support of the Act of Union, and created 1st Baron Hartland, of Strokestown, Co. Roscommon in 1800.

Terence Reeves-Smyth tells us:

His son Maurice, who became Baron Hartland upon accepting a Union Peerage in 1800, made further additions and modifications to the house, including the inlaid mahogany doors, chimney-pieces and cornices as well as the library.”

Strokestown, image by Chris Hill, 2014, Tourism Ireland, from Ireland’s Content Pool. [1] Mark Bence-Jones writes that in a late-Georgian addition at the back of the house there is a splendid library with a coved ceiling and an original early nineteenth century wallpaper of great beauty, in yellow and brown, which gives the effect of faded gold. [12]

Maurice Mahon also had the main street of Strokestown laid out between 1810 and 1815, and had a tall Georgian Gothic arch erected at the entrance to Strokestown Park, at one end of the main street. At almost one hundred and fifty feet wide, the main thoroughfare, leading up to the gates of the estate, was said to be the widest in Ireland at the time. Apparently Baron Hartland wanted it to be wider than the Ringstrasse in Vienna. [see 12]

Tripartite gate at the entrance to the Strokestown Park estate, with crow stepped battlements. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Maurice, 1st Baron Hartland had three sons. The first, Thomas (1766-1835) succeeded as 2nd Baron Hartland in 1819. His mother lived another fifteen years after her husband died in 1819, and the museum tells us that receipts for her extravagant spending are kept in the archive.

When Thomas inherited the property in 1819 he hired John Lynn who created the porch, among other renovations. Lynn had served as clerk of works for the building of Rockingham House in County Roscommon, erected in 1810 for Robert, 1st Viscount Lorton to designs by John Nash. We saw pictures of Rockingham House when we visited King House, see my entry. Rockingham House no longer exists. Soon after working in Strokestown, Lynn moved up to Downpatrick, County Down. [13]

Terence Reeves-Smyth continues in Irish Big Houses: “In 1819 Lieutenant General Thomas Mahon, second Lord Hartland, employed the architect J[ohn] Lynn to carry out some more improvements, such as the addition of the porch and giant pilasters to the front. Except for the gardens, few changes were later carried out at Strokestown and it remained the centre of a vast 30,000 acre estate until the present century.”

Thomas the second baron was educated at the Royal School in Armagh, Trinity College Dublin and St. John’s College, Cambridge. He joined the military and became Major in the 24th Light Dragoons. In 1798 he was in command of a garrison in Carlow, where he trapped and killed many rebels. [14] In 1811 he married Catherine Topping, but they did not have any children. He later fought in the Napoleonic wars and in Argentina.

Terence Reeves-Smyth continues:

In contrast to the exterior, the interior is quite intimate, with surprisingly small rooms – a product of the early date of much of the building. Early 18th century wood panelling survives in parts of the house including the main staircase hall, but many rooms were redecorated in regency times, such as the dining room which still has its early 19th century furniture, including a bath-sized turf bucket and pinkish-red damask wallpaper.

Staircase hall of Strokestown Park, with its original wood panelling, and archivist Martin Fagan. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
On the wall on the right hand side is a portrait of Edward Pakenham (b. 1778), an uncle of Henry Sandford Pakenham who married into the family, and on the left, his brother Lt. Col. Hercules Pakenham (1781-1850). Both were brothers of the 2nd Earl of Longford, of Tullynally, County Westmeath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mark Bence-Jones tells us that some of the principal rooms in the centre of the house have eighteenth century panelling. [see 12] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown dining room, image by Chris Hill, 2014, Tourism Ireland, from Ireland’s Content Pool. [1] Robert O’Byrne tells us that the wallpaper features in Wallpaper in Ireland 1700-1900 written by David Skinner.

Terence Reeves-Smyth continues: “Regency additions incorporated the study, which also retains its original furnishings, and the smoking room, which was converted into a laboratory and photography darkroom by Henry Pakenham-Mahon, an amateur scientist, in the 1890’s. The finest regency addition is the library at the back, originally built as a ballroom with a bowed wall at one end to accommodate musicians. This contains Chippendale bookcases and beautiful brown and gold wallpaper, made especially for the walls in the early 19th century.

The bowed library with its gold-coloured wallpaper. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
King William III on his horse in the portrait. The chimneypiece features Siena marbe, Ionic pilasters and a Grecian key pattern. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The library contains Chippendale bookcases. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The curtain pelmet features a dragon head. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The ceiling rose in the library. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Reeves-Smyth continues, describing the kitchen which we did not see: “The old kitchen in the left wing of the house is approached from the dining room along a curved corridor, past store rooms for kitchen utensils and sporting equipment. Fitted with spits and ovens for baking, roasting and smoking, this kitchen has its original balustraded gallery which crosses the high ceilinged room lengthwise, the only example of its kind to survive in Ireland, especially in houses designed by Richard Castle. These galleries allowed the housekeeper to supervise the affairs below – one tradition has it that menus were dropped from the balcony on Monday mornings with instructions to the cook for the week’s meals.

The wing to the right of the central block contains magnificent vaulted stables carried on Tuscan columns, similar to stables built by Castle for Carton (1739) and Russborough (1741). An underground passage links these stables to the yard on the north side of the house. The estate office was also in this wing, which meant the tenantry had to come here rather than to an office in the village to pay their rent.

A photograph of the vaulted stables, by Henry Pakenham Mahon (1851-1922).

Maurice Craig tells us in his Irish Country Houses of the Middle Size: p. 21. “The practice of connecting the house with outlying offices by a tunnel seems to be peculiar to Ireland…Strokestown, Bellamont, Castle Coole and Lucan are amongst the Irish examples. In the nature of things, this is a feature of the grander houses, though it has been reported in connection with some of modest size.”

Thomas 2nd Baron married but had no children and his brother Maurice (1772-1845) succeeded as 3rd Baron Hartland when Thomas died in 1835. Maurice had joined the clergy, and was awarded a prebendary (an administrative role) in Tuam Cathedral in 1804.

In 1813 the 3rd Baron Hartland married Jane Isabella Hume of Humewood, County Wicklow, but also had no children and the title became extinct. He had another brother, Stephen, but he predeceased his brothers and had no children. The museum tells us that the 3rd Baron suffered with mental illness, though it does not give us specifics. He was declared insane just a year after he inherited the property in 1835.

The 3rd Baron Hartland married Jane Isabella Hume of Humewood, County Wicklow. Humewood, County Wicklow photograph courtesy of National Library of Ireland, photographer Robert French, Lawrence Collection Circa 1865 – 1914 NLI Ref. L_IMP_3853.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that it was Denis Mahon who brought a motion against Maurice claiming that he was mentally ill and incapable of caring for the estate. Maurice had allowed the lease to lapse for a portion of the estate and stopped collecting rent from the town of Ballykilcline and its surrounding area. This led to an official declaration stating Maurice was a “lunatic.” Denis was named executor of the estate as well as being named Maurice’s legal guardian.

The museum tells us that when he was declared insane in 1836, two cousins battled in the courts to inherit the property: Denis Mahon (1787-1847) and Marcus McCausland.

Marcus McCausland owned the property of Drenagh, Limavady in County Derry (now a wedding venue). His mother was Theodosia Mahon, a sister of the 1st Baron Hartland, who had married Conolly McCausland-Gage. The nine year court case decided in favour of Denis Mahon. As well as the now poorly managed property, he inherited debts.

Denis was the son of a brother of 1st Baron Hartland, Reverend Thomas Mahon (1740-1811). Reverend Thomas married Honoria Kelly, daughter of Denis Kelly of Castle Kelly, County Galway (also called Aughrane Castle, it has been demolished. It was purchased by Bagots in 1910, I’m haven’t found an ancestral link to these Bagots).

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

It was Denis Mahon who was then murdered during the Famine. The story is told in detail in the Famine Museum. The estate was badly run and tenants let and sublet their parcels of land, hence owned smaller and smaller portions of land to grow their crops.

Reeves-Smyth tells us: “Major Denis Mahon, who succeeded to Strokestown on the death of the third and last Lord Hartland in 1845 was so unpopular a landlord during the famine years that he was shot whilst returning from a meeting of the Roscommon Relief Committee in 1848, apparently on suspicion of chartering unseaworthy ships to transport emigrants from his estate to America. His successors were much better regarded and his great-granddaughter and last owner, Mrs. Olive Hales-Packenham-Mahon, was a much loved figure in this part of Ireland. She died in 1981, leaving a house filled with the trappings of three centuries of unbroken family occupation.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

Captain Denis Mahon chose to help his tenants to leave Ireland. He wanted to reduce his number of tenants. The 1838 Poor Law made a local tax for poor rates. In 1843 the act was amended and introduced new rates, charging landlords a tax for each tenant who had holdings of less than a value of £4. Landlords therefore tried to reduce the number of tenants.

Sculptures of shoes like this are dotted along the way of the Famine Walk. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
The entrance to the Famine Museum and café. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Famine Museum is introduced by a beautifully handwritten letter by tenants asking not for money or food, but work. The eloquent letter humanises those who were experiencing the poverty of the famine in the 1840s.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

Arthur Young writes in his A Tour in Ireland in 1799 that “the poor live on potatoes and milk, it is their regular diet, very little oat bread being used and no flesh meat at all except on Easter Sunday and Christmas day.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

Denis Mahon tried to make the estate pay for itself, to pay off the debts he had inherited. He also tried to take care of his tenants. He had two agents, John Ross Mahon and Thomas Conry. He began relief efforts for his tenants in March 1846. 4000 people were provided with corn on a weekly basis at low or no cost, and after a harsh winter, he distributed free seed to his most needy tenants. He also had a soup kitchen set up.

John Ross Mahon wrote to him that the poor rates would exceed receipts of rent. By 1847 the conditions were worse and there was unrest amongst the tenants. Mahon began to evict tenants and to encourage others to emigrate. The Freeman’s Journal in 1848 states that “The evictions on the estate since Major Mahon had taken over amounted to 3006 people, including the 1,490 who were selected to emigrate.” Fewer than half of those who emigrated survived the trek to Dublin and the journey on the ship.

The building of the month entry in the National Inventory summarises: “Major Mahon, an improving landlord, sought to alleviate the situation by judicious depopulation and in 1847 organised the voluntary emigration of almost one thousand of his tenants to North America. However, a far greater number refused to move and were the subject of evictions involving almost 600 families and 3000 individuals. Returning from an evening meeting in Roscommon, where he had urged the Board of Guardians to keep the workhouse open for needy paupers, Major Mahon was fatally shot on the 2nd of November 1847. Three men were hanged for the murder and two were transported, but the true identity of the assassin or assassins has been debated ever since.”

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

The Famine Museum tells us that there were secret societies who sought to improve the conditions of the poor. A local one in Roscommon was called the “Molly Maguires.”

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

The man suspected to be the mastermind of the murder, Andrew Connor, probably escaped to Canada. Police followed to Canada to try to capture him but to no avail. A man named Patrick Hasty was hanged for the murder, along with two others.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

Denis’s son Thomas predeceased him, childless, and the house passed to his daughter, Grace Catherine. Earlier in 1847, Grace had married Henry Sandford Pakenham (1823-1893), son of Reverend Henry Pakenham, Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, who was from Pakenham Hall in County Westmeath, now called Tullynally (see my entry, it is another Section 482 property which can be visited).

Henry Sandford Pakenham held the office of High Sheriff of County Roscommon in 1830. He was heir to the vast Pakenham and Sandford estates in counties Longford, Westmeath and Roscommon. He legally changed his name to Henry Sandford Pakenham Mahon by Royal Licence in 1847.

Elizabeth Sandford, mother of Henry Sandford Pakenham, wife of Reverend Henry Pakenham, Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin. Henry Sandford Pakenham married the heiress Grace Catherine Mahon and changed his surname to Pakenham Mahon. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A portrait of Lt. Gen. Hercules Pakenham (1781-1850), an uncle of Henry Sandford Pakenham Mahon, hangs in the front hall of Strokestown House.
Major General Edward Pakenham (1778-1815), another uncle of Henry Sandford Pakenham Mahon, also hangs in the front hall of Strokestown House.

After Denis Mahon was killed his devastated daughter Grace moved to the Isle of Wight with her husband, who continued to manage the estate with the help of his agent.

He and Grace Catherine had several daughters, and a son, Henry Pakenham-Mahon (1851-1922).

Henry moved back to live in Strokestown. He was High Sheriff, Justice of the Peace and Deputy Lieutenant of County Roscommon, following in the footsteps of his father. He married Mary Burrard and Olive, as mentioned by Reeves-Smyth, was their daughter.

Henry Pakenham-Mahon was a keen horticulturalist and his main contribution to the estate was the development of the gardens. The family lived part-time in Strokestown Park and part-time in England. He developed a Pleasure Garden in the walled garden.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

He also had an interest in photography, and he built a darkroom in Strokestown House.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

His daughter Olive, born in 1894, first married Captain Edward Charles Stafford-King-Harman, from Rockingham House, County Roscommon, whom we came across in King House. Tragically, he died in the first world war in 1914. They had one daughter, Lettice. If Lettice had been a boy she would have inherited Rockingham. Olive and Lettice returned to live in Strokestown Park.

The King Harman Gate in the Pleasure Gardens, a wedding present from the men of Rockingham Estate on the marriage of Olive to Edward Charles Stafford-King-Harman. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

Olive married again, this time to Wilfrid Stuart Atherstone Hales, who also fought in the first world war, and later, in the second. A British garrison was set up in Strokestown House during the War of Independence. After an ambush nearby, Wilfrid Stuart Hales was sent to investigate, and he and Olive fell in love. On 18 April 1923 his name was legally changed to Wilfrid Stuart Atherstone Hales Pakenham Mahon by Deed Poll. He married Olive in 1921 and he changed his name after the death of her father in 1922. They went on to have several children. It was her son who sold the estate.

Olive Hales Pakenham Mahon dressed for a visit to Buckingham Palace in the 1930s.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.

The Pakenham Mahons did not spent much time in Strokestown due to Stuart Hales Pakenham Mahon’s military career, until they returned to live there in the 1950s.

Stuart Hales Pakenham Mahon was interested in finding water and mineral deposits by “dousing,” and the photography display we saw in the house also had information on this topic.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The property has a six acre walled garden and woodlands.

Westward Garage Ltd approached the Pakenham Mahons to buy their land, and terms were agreed. At first the garage only wanted to keep some land and they planned to sell the house, but then Jim Callery found the documents relating to the famine, and had the idea of setting up a famine museum. The company let Olive and her husband remain in the house. Jim Callery employed his cousin Luke Dodd to oversee restoration of the house. [15] In 1987 the house opened to the public, and the Famine Museum opened in 1994. The walled garden opened in 1997, and the herbaceous border is said to be the longest in either Ireland or the UK.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Seated is Henry Pakenham Mahon, son of Grace Mahon and her husband Henry Sandford Pakenham Mahon (born Pakenham). He is photographed here with his wife Mary and to far left, his daughter Olive, and friends.

After exploring the Famine Museum we went out to the extensive walled garden.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This Venetian window was over the doorway of Strokestown Park House in the eighteenth century. The window was removed when the house was refaced in 1819 and remained in storage until an opportunity for its reuse was found. Its “Venetian” form elicits comparisons with the doorcase of the Castle-designed Ledwithstown House (1746), County Longford, and the first floor centrepiece of the long ruined Mantua House (1747), near Elphin. [16] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
image by Chris Hill, 2014, Tourism Ireland, from Ireland’s Content Pool. [1]
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Paul Connolly tells us that this building was used in the summer months by the Mahons, offering views of their garden. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022.
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The following day there was a talk about the mausoleum at Strokestown, but we had to move on with our Heritage Week plans. The mausoleum was constructed within an earlier 17th century church and contains a crypt in which members of the Mahon Family were buried. Following years of careful and professional conservation and sympathetic landscaping, this ruin is again accessible and visible to visitors to Strokestown Park.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Strokestown Park, County Roscommon, August 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en

[2] https://www.archiseek.com/2012/1730-strokestown-park-co-roscommon/

[3] http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/search/label/County%20Roscommon%20Landowners

[4] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/building-of-the-month/strokestown-park-house-cloonradoon-td-strokestown-county-roscommon/

[5] You can see the chimney and plaster overmantel on the website of Robert O’Byrne, https://theirishaesthete.com/2014/10/29/getting-to-the-bottom-of-it/

[6] Bernard, Sir Burke, editor, Burke’s genealogical and heraldic history of the landed gentry of Ireland, 4th ed. (London, U.K.: Burkes Peerage Ltd, 1958), page 471. I’m not sure if “Movilla” mentioned here refers to Moyveela townland.

[7] Reeves-Smyth, Terence. Irish Big Houses. Appletree Press Ltd (22 April 2009)

[8] https://www.dia.ie/architects/view/347/CASTLE-RICHARD

[9] https://www.dib.ie/index.php/biography/castle-castles-cassels-cassells-richard-a1552

[10] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31811028/strokestown-park-house-cloonradoon-strokestown-co-roscommon and Strokestown Park featured as Building of the month in December 2015 https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/building-of-the-month/strokestown-park-house-cloonradoon-td-strokestown-county-roscommon/

[11] http://www.thepeerage.com/p37647.htm#i376469

[12] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988, Constable and Company Ltd, London. Note that Mark Bence-Jones claims that it was the 2nd Baron Hartland who laid out the main street of Strokestown and had the entrance built, but the National Inventory tells us that it was Maurice, 1st Baron Hartland.

[13] https://www.dia.ie/architects/view/3279/LYNN-JOHN%5B1%5D#tab_biography

[14] p. 203. Connolly, Paul. The Landed Estates of County Roscommon. Published by Paul Connolly, 2018.

[15] p. 213, Connolly.

[16] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/building-of-the-month/strokestown-park-house-cloonradoon-td-strokestown-county-roscommon/

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

An update

I have not published an entry in a couple of weeks but have been working hard! I am working on my entry for Strokestown Park in County Roscommon at the moment, which I will publish soon.

Strokestown Park, County Roscommon.

I have updated the home page and each entry with the newly published 2023 open dates.

I am still working on entries for the properties we visited during Heritage Week in August in 2022, so I have lots of work to do! I spent a long time working on the calendars which I have for sale here on the website, https://irishhistorichouses.com/2023/02/15/new-list-published-and-2023-section-482-calendar-order-form/

These list which properties are open on each calendar day of the year.

I have also been planning our trips around Ireland this year, to visit more Section 482 properties. There are no new properties on the list, although Portnason House in County Donegal had dropped off the list in 2022, and is now back on the list. Several other properties have dropped off the listing. I am sorry not to have visited Geragh in Sandycove in Dublin which is no longer listed. I also missed out on seeing Knocknagin House in Balbriggan, which I think sold last year, and is no longer listed – the same goes for Boland’s Lock in Tullamore.

I also didn’t get to visit Ballybur Castle in County Kilkenny, but it is still available to rent out, for weddings, and for group tours: see http://www.ballyburcastle.com/

The oddly named “Prison House” in County Mayo has also dropped off the list. I am also sorry that I did not get to see Cloughjordan House in County Tipperary before it dropped off the list. It remains a wedding and event venue, https://www.cloughjordanhouse.com/

I’m delighted I visited Claregalway Castle last year as it has now changed to be a section 482 accommodation listing. In corresponding with property owners in order to create my calendar, I was alerted to the fact that there are three types of listing for Section 482 properties. A property might be listed as “garden only,” such as Ballynatray or Oakfield Park. A property can be open to the public for sixty days. Or else a property can be listed as Accommodation. If it is listed as Accommodation it does not have to open to the public except when providing accommodation. Some accommodation properties do kindly list open dates for public visits.

Before I realised this distinction, several Accommodation listing owners generously opened their house to me for a tour. I want to highlight this distinction as it means you cannot show up at an accommodation listing expecting a tour!

Some Section 482 properties provide accommodation but are not classified under the Accommodation listing, for various reasons – for example, they may not be open for the required six months of the year. I would recommend that you contact the property before visiting, as they may be hosting a wedding or event.

The final property that has dropped off the Section 482 listing is a garden, Knockanree in County Wicklow. Unfortunately I missed out on visiting there also.

It just goes to show, I must try to visit places while they are on the list! Properties are generally on the list for a minimum of five years.

This year Stephen and I are treating ourselves to a stay in Ballyseede Castle in County Kerry, and we will also be revisiting the wonderful Bantry House. I have plotted out our year’s visiting, but even if we visit one property every weekend, we still won’t see every property!

Happy visiting!

Riverstown House, Riverstown, Glanmire, County Cork T45 HY45 – section 482

Open dates in 2026: May 1-2, 7-9, 14-16, 21-23, 28-30, June 4-6, 10-12, 18-20, 25-27, July 2-4, 9-11, 16-18, 23-25, 30-31, Aug 1, 6-8, 13-23, 27-29 Sept 3-5, 2pm-6pm

Fee: adult €10, OAP €7, student €6, child €3

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Riverstown House, June 2022. The back facade of the house; the entrance door is on the opposite side. The roof has a round-headed bellcote. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown County Cork, 1970, National Library archives. [1] The portico over the door has been since removed. Note that the image is mirror-image reversedsee my photograph above.
Riverstown House, June 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Riverstown is famous for its stucco work. It contains important plasterwork with high-relief figurative stucco in panels on the ceiling and walls of the dining room, by Paolo and Filipo Lafranchini. The brothers also worked in Carton House in County Kildare (see my entry for places to stay in County Kildare https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/04/27/places-to-visit-and-to-stay-leinster-kildare-kilkenny-laois/) and in Kilshannig in County Cork (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2020/12/10/kilshannig-house-rathcormac-county-cork/).

The Swiss-Italian stuccadores were brought to Ireland from England in 1738 by Robert Fitzgerald (1675-1744) 19th Earl of Kildare, who built both Leinster House in Dublin (first known as Kildare House until his son was raised to be Earl of Leinster) and Carton House.

Stucco work carried out by Lafranchini brothers in 1739 in Carton House, now a hotel. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Plasterwork by the Lafranchini brothers in Kilshannig, County Cork. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Going back to its origins, the estate of Riverstown was purchased by Edward Browne (b. 1676), Mayor of Cork. He married Judith, the heiress daughter of Warham Jemmett (b. 1637), who lived in County Cork. The present house possibly dates from the mid 1730s, Frank Keohane tells us in Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County. [2] A hopper with the date 1753 probably records alterations, when the gable end at one side was replaced by full-height canted bays.

Mark Bence-Jones describes Riverstown in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988):

“…The house consists of a double gable-ended block of two storeys over a basement which is concealed on the entrance front, but which forms an extra storey on the garden front, where the ground falls away steeply; and a three-storey one bay tower-like addition at one end, which has two bows on its side elevation. The main block has a four bay entrance front, with a doorway flanked by narrow windows not centrally placed.” [3]

Due to the deep slope upon which the house is built, one side is of three storeys, or two storeys over basement. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The grounds of Riverstown also contain an old ice house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The tower-like third storey on part of the house was possibly added by architect Henry Hill around 1830, Keohane tells us. Henry Hill was an architect who worked in Cork, perhaps initially with George Richard Pain, and later with William Henry Hill and Arthur Hill.

Riverstown House, June 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

As Riverstown and its plasterwork was described in 1750 in Smith’s History of County Cork, it must have been created before this, perhaps when Browne’s son Jemmet Browne was elevated to the position of Bishop of Cork in 1745. He later became Archbishop of Tuam.

Reverend Jemmett Browne at a meet of Foxhounds by Peter Tillemans, courtesy of Yale Centre for British Art.

Reverend Jemmett Browne gave rise to a long line of clerics. He married Alice Waterhouse, daughter of Reverend Thomas Waterhouse. His son Edward (1726-1777) became Archbishop of Cork and Ross, and a younger son, Thomas, also joined the clergy.

A portrait of Alice Waterhouse, wife of Bishop Jemmett Browne.

Edward Archbishop of Cork and Ross named his heir Jemmett (1753-1797) and he also joined the clergy. He married Frances Blennerhassett of Ballyseede, County Kerry (now a hotel and also a section 482 property, see my entry). If the tower part of the house was built in 1830 it would have been for this Jemmett Browne’s heir, another Jemmett (1787-1850).

In Beauties of Ireland (vol. 2, p. 375, published 1826), James Norris Brewer writes that: “the river of Glanmire runs through the gardens banked with serpentine canals which are well stocked with carp, tench, etc. A pleasant park stocked with deer, comes close to the garden walls. The grounds of this very respectable seat about in aged timber and the whole demesne wears an air of dignified seclusion.”

The first Jemmett Browne was friendly with Laurence Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy. The bawdiness of the novel demonstrates that clerics at the time led a different life than those of today! Jemmett Browne’s interest in fine stucco work was probably influenced by fellow clerics Bishop George Berkeley, Samuel “Premium” Madden and Bishop Robert Clayton. Samuel Madden recommended, in his Reflections and Resolutions Proper to the Gentlemen of Ireland that stucco is substituted for wainscot. [4] Bishop Clayton owned what is now called Iveagh House on St. Stephen’s Green in Dublin (see my entry, https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/09/23/open-house-culture-night-and-heritage-week-dublin-visits/ ).

Portrait c. 1740 of Archbishop Robert Clayton (1695–1758) and Katherine née Donellan by James Latham, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland. Known for his unorthodox views, at the time of his death Robert Clayton was facing charges of heresy.
George Berkeley (1685-1753), Philosopher; Bishop of Cloyne, by John Smibert 1730 courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 653. He was a friend of Reverend Jemmett Browne.

The stucco work is so important that the Office of Public Works feared it would be lost, as the house was standing empty in the 1950s before being purchased by John Dooley, father of the current owner, in around 1965. Under the direction of Raymond McGrath of the Office of Public Words, with advice from Dr. C. P. Curran, the authority on Irish decorative plasterwork, moulds were taken in 1955-6. The moulds are now displayed prominently in the home of Ireland’s President, Áras an Uachtaráin. (see my entry on the Áras in the entry on Office of Public Works properties in Dublin, https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/01/21/office-of-public-works-properties-dublin/ )

Riverstown, 1975, photograph from Dublin City Library and Archive. (see[1])
The Lafranchini hallway in Áras an Uachtaráin, with the moulds taken of the stucco work in Riverstown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Shortly after John Dooley purchased the property, the members of the Irish Georgian Society decided to help to restore the plasterwork.

The book published on the 50th anniversary of the Irish Georgian Society, by Robert O’Byrne, has part of a chapter on Riverstown and the Irish Georgian Society’s role in restoration of the Lafranchini plasterwork in the 1960s.

The book published on the 50th anniversary of the Irish Georgian Society has part of a chapter on Riverstown and the Irish Georgian Society’s role in restoration of the Lafranchini plasterwork in the 1960s. By this time, John Dooley had purchased Riverstown, after it has been standing empty. At the time, Dooley had not yet moved in, and the dining room was not preserved to the standard the Georgian Society would have liked. The book has a photograph of potatoes being stored in the dining room.

Photograph from Irish Georgian Society, by Robert O’Byrne. The photograph was published in the Cork Examiner in February 1965. We don’t know of course how temporary this storage was.

The entrance hall of Riverstown is also impressive, and the members of the Georgian Society also helped to clean the plasterwork in this room. The walls curve, and the room has an elegant Neoclassical Doric frieze and shapely Corinthian columns.

Mark Bence-Jones decribes: “The hall, though of modest proportions, is made elegant and interesting by columns, a plasterwork frieze and a curved inner wall, in which there is a doorcase giving directly onto an enclosed staircase of good joinery. To the left of the hall, in the three storey addition, are two bow-ended drawing rooms back to back. Straight ahead, in the middle of the garden front, is the dining room, the chief glory of Riverstown.”

The rounded entrance hall has a Neoclassical Doric frieze, thin columns and marble busts and statue. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Lafranchini work in the dining room derives from Maffei’s edition of Agostini’s Gemme Antiche Figurate (1707-09). Frank Keohane notes that the Maffei’s engravings were also used for the decoration of the Apollo Room in 85 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin, also by the Lafranchini brothers.

The ceiling at Riverstown: winged figure of Father Time, rescuing Truth from the assaults of Discord and Envy, taken from the allegorical painting by Nicholas Poussin which he painted on the ceiling in France for Cardinal Richelieu in 1641 and now hangs in the Louvre, Paris.

The dining room in Riverstown, August 2022. Marcus Curtius on horseback over fireplace, next to Aeneas carrying Anchises on his shoulders, then Liberty and Ceres. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Apollo Room, 85 St. Stephen’s Green, also by Lafranchini brothers, using Maffei’s engravings, executed in 1740. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The ceiling at Riverstown: winged figure of Father Time, Chronos, rescuing Truth (a young woman, La Verdad) from the assaults of Discord and Envy, taken from the allegorical painting by Nicholas Poussin which he painted on the ceiling in France for Cardinal Richelieu in 1641 and now hangs in the Louvre, Paris. Discord is armed with a dagger and Envy with snakes, and in the original painting, Envy’s robes are green. A cherub bears the sickle and circle, symbolising Time and Immortality. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Corner of the ceiling at Riverstown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

C. P. Curran tells us that the history of the Lafranchini brothers is obscure, but they “represent one of the successive waves of stuccodores who from quite early periods swarmed over Europe from fertile hives in the valleys of either side of the Swiss Italian Alps….They worked in some unascertained way side by side with local guildsmen and introduced new motifs and methods. Their repertory of ornament was abundant and they excelled in figure work.” [4] They executed their work in Carton in 1739, Curran tells us, and in 85 St. Stephen’s Green in 1740.

Marcus Curtius on horseback over fireplace, next to Aeneas carrying Anchises on his shoulders, then Liberty and Ceres. The panels have moulded frames, those over the fireplace and the opposing wall being lugged and enriched with acanthus-tufted C-scrolls above and below the panels. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Keohane tells us that the simple eighteenth century black-marble slab chimneypiece was installed in the 1950s when the house was saved by the Dooley family from ruination. It replaced a remarkable overmantel, now in an upper room, with great scrolled jambs garlanded with flowers and tufted with acanthus, and a comic mask in the centre of the frieze which possibly depicts Bishop Browne.

A remarkable overmantel, now in an upper room, with great scrolled jambs garlanded with flowers and tufted with acanthus, and a comic mask in the centre of the frieze which possibly depicts Bishop Browne. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Marcus Curtius, personifying heroic virtue. Denis told us that it was he who uncovered the buildings in the top left hand corner of this panel, and that they surprised Desmond Guinness who was helping to clean the pictures, as he did not realise they were there! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Aeneas, carrying Anchises on his shoulders and vase enclosing his household gods. It is an allegory of filial piety. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The figure of Liberty, or Grammar. Between the panels are pendants suspended from female masks, in the manner of Jean Berain, Keohane tells us, with thin bandwork and acanthus. Floral garlands are looped above. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Ceres. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Fides Publica, Fortuna, Cincinnatus and Roma Aeterna, in the dining room at Riverstown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Fides Publica. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Cincinnatus, or Achilles. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The figure of Rome. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Even the stucco work around the mirror is splendid. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The work by the members of the Irish Georgian Society on the dining room in Riverstown was complete by the end of 1965. John Dooley continued the restoration of the rest of the house, and it is now kept in beautiful condition by his son Denis and wife Rita, with many treasures collected by the Dooleys. A 1970 Irish Georgian Society Bulletin, Robert O’Byrne tells us, reported further improvements made by the Dooleys. It tells us that one of the house’s two late-eighteenth century drawing rooms adjoining the dining room:

has been given a new dado, architraves, chimney-piece, overdoors and overmantel. These have been collected by John Lenehan of Kanturk, who rescued them from houses in Dublin that were being demolished and inserted them at Riverstown.”

Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
An old illustrated manuscript about the Brownes of Riverstown was presented by Mrs Trippe of Tangiers. The Browne family, Denis told us, mostly went to South Africa. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Beautiful carved doorframes, and a splendid Waterford crystal chandelier in the Green Drawing Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The two drawing rooms do indeed have splendid over mantel and overdoors. The drawing room has been hung with green silk wall covering. The Dooleys have shown fine taste for the decoration and maintenance of the rooms and I suspect John Dooley knew what he was doing when he purchased and thus saved the house.

Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

A fine wooden staircase brings us upstairs to a spacious lobby containing a Ladies’ conversation chair. Keohane suggests the stair may have originally been open to the front hall, but is now hidden by a screen wall. He writes that this arrangement probably dates from c. 1784, when Phineas Bagnell was granted a long lease of the house.

Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A bedroom upstairs has canted windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Denis told us that the four-poster bed came from Lissadell, so perhaps W.B. Yeats slept in it! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Riverstown, 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The owners’ bedroom has an extraordinary carved marble mantel. It was probably originally in the room with the Lafranchini stuccowork. It has great scrolled jambs garlanded with flowers and tufted with acanthus, and a comic mask in the centre of the frieze which possibly depicts Bishop Browne, Frank Keohane tells us.

The Dooleys have a garden centre, which is situated behind the house. They maintain the gardens with its rolling lawns beautifully. The Glanmire river passes by the bottom of the garden.

An old bridge at the end of the property passes over the Glanmire River. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://repository.dri.ie/catalog
[2] p. 556, Keohane, Frank. Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County. Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2020.

[3] Bence-Jones, Mark A Guide to Irish Country Houses. (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[4] Curran, C.P. Riverstown House Glanmire, County Cork and the Francini. A leaflet given to us by Denis Dooley.

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com