Anngrove (formerly Ballinsperrig), Carrigtwohill, Co Cork – demolished by ca. 1965

Anngrove (formerly Ballinsperrig), Carrigtwohill, Co Cork – demolished by ca. 1965 

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 6. “(Cotter, Bt/PB; Barry/IFR; Gubbins/LG1937 supp) A remarkable late C17 house built by Sir James Cotter, MP, a staunch adherent of Charles II who, in 1664, went to Switzerland with two companions and shot the fugitive Regicide, John Lisle. ..One of the rooms originally contained a velvet bed with hangings and gold brocade which was said to have belonged to Charles I and to have been given to Sir James Cotter by Queen Henrietta Maria “as a mark of her royal favour and thanks” for having led the successful action against Lisle. James II is traditionally supposed to have stayed a night in the house and to have slept in this bed. The lands on which the house was built were leased from the Barrys, Earls of Barrymore; some time post 1720, the widow of sir James Cotter’s son sold the reversion of the lease to the 4th Earl and the Cotter family seat was henceforth Rockforest. The 5th Earl of Barrymore, as Viscount Buttevant, lived for a period in Anngrove; but it was afterwards let. Charles I’s bed, which the Cotters left behind, was removed to Castle Lyons, the principal Barrymore seat, where it was burnt in the fire of 1771. Towards the end of the C18, or in early C19, Anngrove passed to the Wise family, from whom it was inherited, later in C19, by the Gubbins family. The house was still standing in 1950s but was demolished by ca. 1965.” 

Listed in Vanishing Country Houses of Ireland by The Knight of Glin, David J. Griffin and Nicholas K. Robinson, published by The Irish Architectural Archive and The Irish Georgian Society, 1988.

A very important late 17C and early 18C two storey house for James Cotter MP. Five bay with projecting square corner towers which had high-pitched pyramidal roofs. Demolished.”

https://landedfamilies.blogspot.com/search/label/Ireland

Barry of Castle Lyons and Anngrove, Earls of Barrymore 

The Barrys are one of the most ancient landed families in the British Isles, and can be traced back to Odo de Barri, a knight who assisted with the Norman conquest of Pembrokeshire at the end of the 11th century and was granted large estates including Manorbier Castle and Barry Island, from which the family took its name. His grandsons included the historian, Giraldus Cambrensis [Gerald of Wales] (c.1146-1223), and also Gerald’s elder brothers, Robert and Philip, who accompanied their half-uncle Richard FitzStephen to Ireland on his expedition of 1169 to help Dermot, King of Leinster, recover his throne. Robert was killed in Ireland in about 1185, but Philip de Barry (d. c.1200) was granted the cantreds of Olethan, Muskerry and Killyde in County Cork, parts of which large estate remained the property of his descendants until the end of the 18th century. Although Manorbier Castle in Pembrokeshire remained a principal seat of the family until the 15th century, their focus was increasingly on Ireland. Philip’s grandson, Sir David Barry (d. 1261) was the first to attract the soubriquet ‘Barry More’ [i.e., Barry the Great], and his son, David Oge Barry (d. 1278), who was Lord Justiciar of Ireland in 1267 and founded Buttevant Abbey, was probably the first of the family to be summoned to the Irish parliament as a baron, although (as the Complete Peerage expresses it), ‘any date given for the origin of early prescriptive Irish titles such as this must be in the nature of guesswork’. It is not even clear whether David Oge Barry and his descendants were properly styled Lord Barry, Lord Barrymore, or Lord Buttevant, since in later centuries the titles were used interchangeably. 
 
William Barry, the 11th Lord Barry, was one of the fifteen peers summoned to Greenwich (Kent) by King Henry VII in 1489, when he ranked as the premier baron of Ireland, and was styled ‘Lord Barry of Buttevant’. He was presumably aligned with the Yorkist faction in the Wars of the Roses, since he supported Perkin Warbeck’s claim to the throne in the 1490s, but although he seems to have made his peace with King Henry VII, he was murdered by his brother, the Archdeacon of Cork and Cloyne, in 1500. The archdeacon was himself killed and burned in reprisal, and another brother, Edmund, had his eyes put out by William’s widow. This was evidently all part of a bitter blood-feud by which the family was riven in the late 15th and 16th centuries. William’s son, John Barry, the 12th Lord Barry, was killed by the Earl of Desmond in 1530, whereupon the title and estates passed to William’s surviving brother John Barry (d. 1534), who seems to have been the only one of his generation to die in his bed, unmaimed. 
 
John’s eldest son, John Barry (c.1517-53), 14th Baron Barry, sat in the Irish parliament of 1541 as a Viscount, and although there is no record of the creation of a peerage of this degree, which may simply have been assumed, the peerage was henceforward regarded as a viscountcy by the Crown (again variously called Viscount Barry, Viscount Barrymore and Viscount Buttevant). John Barry sat in the 1541 Parliament, indeed, as the premier viscount, implying a precedence of creation over the Gormanston viscountcy (of 1478). This led earlier writers to try and characterise the family’s peerage as a viscountcy in earlier centuries, but there is no evidence for this, and it may simply be that Barry’s peers were not willing or able to resist the claims of the belligerent Barrys when forcefully asserted. John was succeeded in turn in the viscountcy and estates by his brothers Edmond (d. 1556) and James (d. 1558), both of whom made settlements of their property in default of male heirs on their kinsman, James Barry (d. 1581) and his descendants. These settlements seem to have been made under coercion, and on the death of James Barry, the 3rd Viscount, in 1558 the viscountcy should have become extinct and the barony and estates should have passed to Edmond More Barry of Rathcoban, but this did not happen, for the estates were seized by James Barry (d. 1581), who also assumed both the barony and the viscountcy. James was clearly a man of exceptional violence (he had already murdered the four sons of his half-uncle, David Downe Barry (who had himself murdered his uncle and James’ half-brother), and it would seem no one – not even the Lord Deputy or Queen Elizabeth – was willing to stand up him. In 1558 he was pardoned for the four murders; in 1560 he was summoned to parliament as a viscount; and in 1561 he secured an assignment of the family estates from the rightful heir, Edmond More Barry, no doubt by his usual unscrupulous methods, and had livery of them from the Crown. In a few short years, by sheer thuggery, James had not only secured the family estates and titles but secured recognition of his right to them from the Crown. 
 
James, 4th Viscount Buttevant, is the blackest character in this family, although others were far from estimable. His eldest son, Richard Barry (d. 1622), was born deaf and dumb, and was on that account (though not mentally impaired) passed over in the succession to the peerages and a major part of the estates, which descended to David Barry (1550-1617), 5th Viscount Buttevant. He joined the Earl of Desmond’s revolt against the Crown in 1593 but abandoned the rebel cause in 1599 and secured a pardon in 1602 on payment of a fine of £500. He thereafter remained loyal to the Crown and was indeed trusted and encouraged by King James I. His eldest son died in 1604/5, and it was therefore a posthumous grandson, David Barry (1605-42), who inherited the title and estates in 1617. The Crown granted his wardship to Richard Boyle, 1st Earl of Cork, and he was brought up a Protestant in a civilised household. The relationship with Lord Cork went well beyond guardianship, however, for Cork took mortgages on the Barry estates in order to pay off the inherited debts, and in 1621, arranged David’s marriage to his eldest but barely teenage daughter, Alice (1607-66). Finally, in 1628, he paid £3,000 for the young man, who had recently come of age, to be raised to the next rank of the peerage, as Earl of Barrymore, and a few years later built him a comfortable if still fortified new house, Castle Lyons, on the Barry estate.  
 
The new-minted Earl had all the loyalty to the Crown which his grandfather had exhibited in his later years, and as the country moved towards Civil War he was strongly royalist. He raised men at his own expense to fight in the First Bishops’ War in Scotland in 1639-40 and then worked in harness with Lord Inchiquin to fight the Confederacy in Ireland in 1641-42, but he was mortally wounded at the Battle of Liscarroll in July 1642 and died a few weeks later. Once again, the heir was a minor: his son, Richard Barry (1630-94), 2nd Earl of Barrymore, who was sent to London (where he studied under John Milton for at least a year) and then to France, where he married a Catholic, against his mother’s wishes. He stayed in France until his first wife’s death but then returned to London, where he married the daughter of the president of Cromwell’s council. These connections made him acceptable to both the Royalist and Parliamentarian factions, and at the Restoration he was able to become a colonel in the army and join the Irish privy council. 
 
The 2nd Earl had fifteen children by his three wives and was succeeded first by his eldest son, Laurence Barry (c.1657-99), 3rd Earl of Barrymore, who died without issue, and then by Laurence’s half-brother, Lt-Gen. James Barry (1667-1748), 4th Earl of Barrymore, who was a career soldier until relieved of his command at the time of the Jacobite uprising in 1715 on the grounds that his loyalty to the Hanoverians was doubtful.  

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Rocksavage Hall: the Tudor house inherited by the 4th Earl passed to his 
daughter and thence to the Cholmondeley family, under whom it fell into ruins. 

 
By his second marriage, the 4th Earl acquired estates in Cheshire, Lancashire and Yorkshire centered on Rocksavage Hall (Ches.) that brought with them political control of the parliamentary borough of Wigan. As an Irish peer he was eligible to sit in the British House of Commons, and he did so, first as MP for Stockbridge, 1710-13 and 1714-15, and then for Wigan, which he represented 1715-27 and 1734-47. As an old man, his sympathy for the Jacobite cause strengthened, and from 1740 onwards he was actively involved in planning for a second Jacobite rebellion, with the assistance of one of his younger sons, who was a naval officer. He was arrested on suspicion of treason in 1744, and had his papers seized, but after the rebellion failed the Government decided not to prosecute him, perhaps partly because of his age; he died at the beginning of 1748. His Cheshire estate had been settled on his daughter by his second wife at the time of her marriage to Maj-Gen. James Cholmondeley in 1730, and when he divorced her for adultery in 1736 passed permanently into the hands of that family. His other English property was bequeathed to the same daughter, who later sold it in 1760. His extensive property in Ireland, augmented by his purchase of Anngrove, passed to his eldest son, James Barry (1717-51), 5th Earl of Barrymore, who probably had substantial debts since he was living in Boulogne from 1748 until his death three years later. The 5th Earl’s son, Richard Barrymore (1745-73), 6th Earl of Barrymore, was just six years old when he inherited and was brought up by his mother. On reaching maturity, he joined the army, but he is chiefly remembered for his fondness for gambling and practical jokes. The jokes were sometimes very practical: for example, on one occasion he invited two friends to dine in a private room at an inn and, apparently on a whim, suggested a wager on how many playing cards it would take to entirely cover the floor of the room; what they did not know was that he had dined in the same room a few days previously and that after eating he had piled up all the furniture in the corridor outside and had conducted an experiment to determine the answer. 
 
The 6th Earl married in 1767 and over the next six years had three sons and one daughter. He had leased Anngrove out, and in 1771 Castle Lyons was destroyed by fire, but he lived chiefly in London, where he had a house in Portman Square. In 1773 he died suddenly, probably of a fever (although dark tales circulated later to the effect that he had killed himself after losing heavily at cards), and once again the earldom passed to a minor, in this case Richard Barry (1769-93), 7th Earl of Barrymore. As adolescents lodged with a tutor at Wargrave (Berks), he and his brothers were known for their practical joking (on moonlit nights, they would occupy themselves with switching around the hanging innsigns of local Berkshire inns, so that puzzled landlords might go to bed in the Five Bells and wake up in the Rose & Crown). He had the misfortune to lose his mother in 1780, and the only restraining influence on his crucial formative years was his grandmother, who seems to have been indulgent to a fault.  

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Satirical print of the 7th Earl and his brothers by 
James Gillray, 1791. 

She sent him up to Eton with £1,000 in pocket money, which can only have encouraged profligacy and enabled him to explore all the vices which London had to offer at a tender age. He was intelligent, good-looking, charming, rash, and given to sudden enthusiasms on which a great deal of money might be spent before he tired of the occupation and moved on to something else, such as hunting (he bought his own pack of hounds) and boxing. His hedonistic lifetime brought him to the attention of George, Prince of Wales, to whose circle the 7th Earl and his siblings became known as the four Gates: the rash young earl was Hellgate; his next brother, who had a club foot, was Cripplegate; the youngest brother, always in scrapes, was Newgate; and the sister, known for her colourful language, was Billingsgate, which was witty, if not kind.  
 

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Barrymore, Wargave: the house rented by the 7th Earl but much altered since his time. Image: Historic England. 
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Barrymore, Wargrave: the interior of the private theatre built by the 7th Earl c.1789 and demolished in 1792. 

 
The Earl’s only constant passion was for the theatre and amateur theatricals and when he rented a house at Wargrave (Berks) he built a theatre in the garden (reputedly at a cost of £60,000), in which full-scale performances were given to invited audiences by the Earl, his friends, and some professional actors. He also maintained a smaller theatre in London. Alongside unrestrained gambling and womanising, it begins to be credible that in less than five years he ran through a fortune of £300,000 (perhaps £20m today), leaving the Irish estates mortgaged to the hilt and having to be sold. As early as 1791 he had to come to an arrangement with his creditors whereby his income was reduced to an allowance of £2,500, while the remaining income from the estate was applied to reducing his debts, and it comes as something of a surprise to find that he managed to keep out of the bankruptcy courts and was even nominally solvent when he died in 1793. His death, like his life, was dramatic. He had become an officer in the militia and was being driven in a curricle as escort to a detachment of French prisoners of war being taken from Rye to Dover Castle. He was holding his musket between his knees when a particularly violent jolt caused it to be discharged and the ball went through his head: he died shortly afterwards. Although this sounds remarkably like a disguised suicide, the possibility does not seem to have been suggested at the time, and it may have been, as reported, a tragic accident. 
 
The 7th Earl had married shortly before his death a great beauty who happened to be the daughter of a sedan chairman in London. Although the girl, who was a minor, married with her father’s blessing, he had the romantic fantasy of eloping with her to Gretna Green for the marriage with all the speed he could command. She later married an army officer and survived, as plain Mrs Williams, until 1866.  

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“Lady Barrymore”, the boxing baroness, was actually Mary Ann Pierce, 
the former mistress of the 7th Earl of Barrymore. 

The name ‘Lady Barrymore’ remained prominent in the London press throughout the early 19th century, however, because one of the 7th Earl’s cast-off mistresses, Mary Ann Pierce (d. 1832) took to calling herself by that name. She became ‘the lowest form of prostitute’ and took to drink. When she was in liquor she became violent, and if a publican refused to serve her she thought nothing of breaking up his premises. She was a more than capable boxer (she had learned alongside the 7th Earl and the press dubbed her ‘The Boxing Baroness’), and would beat up watchmen who came to arrest her. She appeared at Bow St. magistrates court more than 150 times charged with affray and similar offences, and is said to have spent seven of her last ten years in gaol, but once there, and dried out, she became a different person and was so useful in keeping order among the female prisoners that she was routinely employed by the prison authorities for that purpose. 
 
The 7th Earl’s club-footed younger brother, Henry Barry (1770-1823), succeeded him as 8th Earl of Barrymore, and completed the process of selling the family’s Irish estates. He lived in London, and was also part of the Prince of Wales’ set, but although he once fought a duel (something his elder brother is not recorded to have done), he had neither the income nor the personality to be a rake on the same scale. He married a daughter of Joseph Coghlan of the magical Ardo in Co. Waterford, but had no children, and on his death the earldom of Barrymore became extinct (it was the subject of a new creation for a descendant of the 4th Earl in 1902). The 8th Earl was also the 13th Viscount Buttevant and 26th Baron Barry, and a claim was made in the 1820s to these lesser titles, but could not be proved, and they too are now regarded as extinct. 
 

Castle Lyons, Co. Cork 

 
An early 17th century fortified mansion, built on the foundations of the castle of the O’Lehans, from whom the place took its name. It became the principal seat of the Barry family from the 1620s, when it superseded Barryscourt Castle. The house was apparently remodelled from 1636 onwards at the cost of the Earl of Cork for his son-in-law, David Barry (1605-42), 1st Earl of Barrymore. The new house was laid out around a central courtyard, with, on one side, the great hall, hung with weapons, on another the kitchen, and on a third side a two-storey gallery ninety feet long, which was, however, called unfinished in 1750 (work probably stopped with the start of war in 1640 and never resumed). One front of the house overlooked gardens with a large canal, supplied with water from the river by an aqueduct which also supplied the kitchens, which a visitor in 1797 said was contrived by a local miller ‘after the exertions of a celebrated artist from England had failed in bringing the water by another course’; one wonders who the ‘celebrated artist’ was? The demesne included a deer park. 
 

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Castle Lyons: the ruins of the house today. 

By the 18th century, the Earls of Barrymore were probably spending as much time in London and Dublin as in County Cork, but the 4th Earl (1667-1748) acquired Anngrove as a new seat, and Castle Lyons evidently fell into disrepair. The 6th Earl (1745-73), who lived chiefly in Dublin and London, let Anngrove, but in 1771 he was carrying out repairs at Castle Lyons when the carelessness of a tinker employed to make repairs to the lead roof caused the house to be burned down. It was never rebuilt, for the 6th Earl died two years after the fire and was succeeded by the infant 7th Earl (1769-93), who grew up to be a notorious rake, one of the boon companions of George, Prince of Wales, who gambled away the family fortune. He sold Castle Lyons and his other estates in Co. Cork and the ruins of the house, with numerous tall chimneys, remain a prominent object in the landscape.. 
 
Descent: James Barry (d. 1581), 4th Viscount Buttevant; to son, David Barry (1550-1617), 5th Viscount Buttevant; to grandson, David Barry (1605-42), 6th Viscount Buttevant and 1st Earl of Barrymore; to son, Richard Barry (1630-94), 2nd Earl of Barrymore; to son, Lawrence Barry (c.1657-99), 3rd Earl of Barrymore; to half-brother, James Barry (1667-1748), 4th Earl of Barrymore; to son, James Barry (1717-51), 5th Earl of Barrymore; to son, Richard Barry (1745-73), 6th Earl of Barrymore; to son, Richard Barry (1769-93), 7th Earl of Barrymore; to brother, Henry Barry (1770-1823), 8th Earl of Barrymore, who sold 1799 to John Anderson. 
 

Anngrove alias Ballinsperrig, Carrigtwohill, Co. Cork 

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Anngrove: the entrance front 

Anngrove was a remarkable and important late 17th century house, built about 1685 for Sir James Cotter MP, a staunch Royalist who in 1664 went to Switzerland with two companions and shot the fugitive regicide, John Lisle, for which he was rewarded with a large pension and the Governorship of the Leeward Islands. Anngrove was built on his return from this posting, and consisted of a two storey five bay centre with a high hipped roof, and boldly projecting corner towers, capped with pyramidal roofs that were slightly lower than the high pitched roof of the central block. A moulded cornice and a prominent string course ran around the house and towers, uniting them into a single composition. Inside, one room originally contained a ‘velvet bed with hangings and gold brocade’ which was said to have belonged to Charles I and to have been a gift from Queen Henrietta Maria as a thank-you present to Cotter for his despatch of John Lisle. James II is supposed to have stayed a night in the house and to have slept in this bed, during his operations in Ireland in 1689-91. 
 
The lands on which Anngrove was built were leased by Sir James Cotter from the Earls of Barrymore, and sometime after 1720 the 4th Earl bought back the lease. After the death of the 5th Earl, Anngrove was let again. Charles I’s bed was taken to Castle Lyons, where it was destroyed in the fire of 1771. The Barrys then used the house again for a few years, but towards the end of the 18th century, Anngrove was sold by the profligate 7th Earl to the Wise family, from whom it was inherited in the 19th century by the Gubbins family. The estate was sold to the Land Commission in 1909, and by the 1950s the house was attached to a small farm. It began to suffer from subsidence and was progressively abandoned as it became dangerous. In the early 1960s a new bungalow was built behind the old house to replace it, and some fittings from the old house were relocated there before the shell of the building was blown up with the help of an explosives expert from a nearby quarry; demolition had taken place by 1965. 
 
Descent: built for Sir James Cotter (c.1630-1705); to son, James Cotter (1689-1720); to widow Margaret, who sold to James Barry (1667-1748), 4th Earl of Barrymore; to son, James Barry (1717-51), 5th Earl of Barrymore; to son, Richard Barry (1745-73), 6th Earl of Barrymore; to son, Richard Barry (1769-93), 7th Earl of Barrymore; who sold to Francis Wise (1766-1842); to nephew, Francis Wise (1797-1881); to nephew?, Thomas Wise Gubbins (d. 1904); estate sold to Irish Land Commission, 1909… Joe Fenton (fl. 1950-2000), who demolished the house c.1965. 

Office of Public Works properties County Cork, Munster

Munster’s counties are Clare, Cork, Kerry, Limerick, Tipperary and Waterford.

I have noticed that an inordinate amount of OPW sites are closed ever since Covid restrictions, if not even before that (as in Emo, which seems to be perpetually closed).

Cork:

1. Annes Grove, County Cork

2. Barryscourt Castle, County Cork – currently closed (June 2022)

3. Charles Fort, County Cork

4. Desmond Castle, Kinsale, County Cork

5. Doneraile Court, County Cork

6. Fota House Arboretum and Gardens, County Cork (Fota House itself is maintained by the Heritage Trust)

7. Ilnacullin, Garanish Island, County Cork

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Cork:

1. Annes Grove, Castletownroche, County Cork:

Annes Grove, County Cork, 1981 from Dublin City Library and Archives. [1]

Tel: 022 26145, annesgrove@eircom.net

https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/annes-grove-gardens/

This is due to be open soon by the OPW. It does not have a website yet. In December 2015 Annes Grove House and Garden were donated to the state by the Annesley family.

Nestled into an eighteenth century ornamental glen, adjacent to the River Awbeg, the demesne of Annes Grove in north County Cork is the setting for the most exquisite Robinsonian-style gardens in Ireland….

The Gardens at Annes Grove were largely the creation of Richard Grove Annesley in the first half of the twentieth century.” [2]

Annes Grove, County Cork, 1981 from Dublin City Library and Archives. [see 1]

The estate was previously known as Ballyhimmock, and it was acquired by William Grove around 1626.

In 1792 it was inherited by Arthur Grove Annesley (1774-1849) from an aunt by marriage, heiress to the Grove family, after which it was renamed by merging the two family names. [3] Arthur Grove Annesley’s uncle Francis Charles Annesley, 1st Earl Annesley of Castlewellan, County Down, married Mary Grove who inherited the estate from her father.

At the centre of the garden is a restored Gothic style summerhouse. The main house is of Queen Anne design, from the 18th century. Pergolas, a lily pond, Victorian stone fernery, a woodland walk and river garden, a rockery and wild water garden create an atmospheric setting.

From “In Harmony with Nature, The Irish Country House Garden 1600-1900” in the Irish Georgian Society, July 2022, curated by Robert O’Byrne.

2. Barryscourt Castle, County Cork:

Barryscourt Castle by Julia Delio, flickr constant commons, August 2009.

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/barryscourt-castle/:

Barryscourt Castle was the seat of the great Anglo-Norman Barry family and is one of the finest examples of a restored Irish Tower House. Dating from between 1392 and 1420, the Castle has an outer bawn wall and largely intact corner towers. The ground floor of the Tower House contains a dungeon into which prisoners were dropped via the ‘drop-hole’ located on the second floor.

The Barrys supported the Fitzgeralds of Desmond during the Irish rebellions of the late sixteenth century. To prevent it being captured by Sir Walter Raleigh and his army, the Barrys [David Barry, 5th Viscount Barry (1550-1617)] partially destroyed the Castle.

Walter Raleigh (1552-1618) by Unknown English artist 1588, National Portrait Gallery of London ref. 7.

During the Irish Confederate War of the seventeenth century Barryscourt Castle was once again successfully attacked.  Cannon balls lodged in the wall above the Castle entrance bear witness to this conflict. The last head of the Barry family was Lord David Barry.

Barryscourt Castle has been extensively restored. The Main Hall and Great Hall have been completed and fittings and furnishings reinstated. Within the Castle grounds, the herb and knot garden and the charming orchard have been restored to their original sixteenth century design.

After David Barry’s death in 1617 the family made Castlelyons their principal seat (now a ruin). The castle was restored by the OPW and the Barryscourt Trust between 1987-1993, with reproduction furniture made by Victor Chinnery. [4]

An article in the Irish Examiner by Padraig Hoare published 22nd May 2021 tells us that the site is closed and will be for some time:

A reopening date must be established for one of East Cork’s most historic landmarks after languishing in the midst of safety works for five years.

That is according to Cork East TD Séan Sherlock, who said Barryscourt Castle in Carrigtwohill has to be a priority for the Government body in charge of the facility, the Office of Public Works (OPW).

History enthusiasts and families alike were disappointed in the summer of 2020, when it emerged that Barryscourt Castle would remain closed for another 18 months.

The latest update from the OPW given in response to a parliamentary question from Mr Sherlock suggests it may be even longer than the date anticipated a year ago.

The Department of Public Expenditure said restrictions associated with the Covid-19 pandemic “has disrupted the good progress” of works being done to make the facility safe.

“It is not possible at this time to give a precise date for reopening to the public,” the department said.

3. Charles Fort, Summer Cove, Kinsale, County Cork:

The Soldiers Quarters, the Hospital ward, the Lighthouse (by Robert Reading) and Magazine of the 17th Century Charles Fort, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Munster, Ireland. Photograph from Ireland’s Content Pool, photograph by Cahir Davitt, 2016, for Failte Ireland. [5]

General Enquiries: 021 477 2263, charlesfort@opw.ie

https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/charles-fort-national-monument/

From the OPW website:

As one of the country’s largest military installations, Charles Fort has been part of some of the most momentous events of Irish history. During the Williamite Wars, for example, it withstood a 13-day siege before it fell. Later, in the Civil War of the early 1920s, anti-Treaty forces on the retreat burned it out.

Charles Fort is a massive star-shaped structure of the late seventeenth century, well preserved despite its history. William Robinson, architect of the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, Dublin, is credited with designing it. Its dimensions are awe-inspiring – some of the outer defences are 16 metres high.

The view from the ramparts looking out over Kinsale Harbour is spectacular.

The Soldiers Quarters, and Magazine of the 17th Century Charles Fort, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Munster, Ireland. Photograph from Ireland’s Content Pool, photograph by Cahir Davitt, 2016, for Failte Ireland. [see 5]
The seaward Devils Bastion and lighthouse of the 17th Century Charles Fort, with Kinsale boatyard in the background, Kinsale, Co. Cork, Munster, Ireland; Photograph from Ireland’s Content Pool, photograph by Cahir Davitt, 2016, for Failte Ireland. [see 5]

4. Desmond Castle (also known as the French Prison), Kinsale, County Cork:

Desmond Castle Kinsale 1941, photograph from Dublin City Library archives. [see 1]

General Enquiries: 021 477 4855, desmondcastle@opw.ie

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/desmond-castle-kinsale/:

Desmond Castle in Kinsale dates from around 1500. It is a classic urban tower house, consisting of a three-storey keep with storehouses to the rear.

Maurice Bacach Fitzgerald, the earl of Desmond, originally built the castle as the customs house for the town. [I think this must be the 9th Earl of Desmond – JWB] It served as a prison in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Because it usually held French inmates, as well as Spaniards, Portuguese, Dutch and Americans, it became known locally as the French Prison and carries that name to this day. The building was co-opted as an ordnance store during the momentous Battle of Kinsale (1601) and served as a workhouse during the Great Famine.

Desmond Castle certainly had a colourful history and this continued into the twentieth century. In the early 1900s it was used as a venue to host local Gaelic League meetings. Finally, in the 1930s, a thriving undertaking business operated from within the National Monument.

The National Inventory of Architectural Heritage tells us:

Freestanding three-bay three-storey tower house, commenced c.1500, abutting earthen terrace to rear. Attached cell blocks and exercise yards to rear (north-west) and platform to side (north-east). Historically used as magazine (1600-1601), as prison for foreign prisoners (1601-1790) and as borough jail (1791-1846). Restored in 1938 currently in use as museum.

5. Doneraile Court, County Cork:

Doneraile Court, County Cork, August 2020. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

See my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/04/19/doneraile-court-county-cork-an-office-of-public-works-property/

https://doneraileestate.ie/

Doneraile Court, County Cork, August 2020. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

6. Fota Arboretum and Gardens, Carrigtwohill, County Cork

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

General enquiries: (021) 481 5543 https://fotahouse.com/

fota.arboretum@opw.ie

See my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2022/05/17/places-to-visit-and-stay-munster-county-cork/

From the OPW website: https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/fota-arboretum-and-gardens/

Fota House was designed by 19th century architects Richard and William Morrison. From the beautifully proportioned rooms with exquisite plasterwork, to the preserved service wing and kitchens, Fota House offers visitors an intimate look at how life was lived in the past, for the cooks, butlers, footmen and maids who supported the lavish lifestyle of the gentry. Our painting collection is considered to be one of the finest collections of landscape painting outside the National Gallery of Ireland and includes works by William Ashford PRHA, Robert Carver, Jonathan Fisher and Thomas Roberts.” [9]

Front porch of Fota House. Fluted baseless Green Doric columns support a weighty entablature in which wreaths alternate with the Barry crest in the metopes. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The OPW website tells us:

The arboretum and gardens on Fota Island, just 16 kilometres from Cork city centre, are an essential destination for any one of a horticultural bent.

The arboretum extends over 11 hectares and contains one of the finest collections of rare, tender trees and shrubs grown outdoors in Europe. The unique conditions at Fota – its warm soil and sheltered location – enable many excellent examples of exotics from the southern hemisphere to flourish.

The gardens include such stunning features as the ornamental pond, formal pleasure gardens, orangery and sun temple. James Hugh Smith-Barry laid them out in the first half of the nineteenth century. Fota House, the Smith-Barrys’ ancestral home, still stands. The house, arboretum and gardens share the island with a hotel and golf resort and a wildlife park. [10]

7. Ilnacullin, Garanish Island, Glengarriff, Bantry, County Cork:

https://garinishisland.ie/plan-a-visit/

Italian garden, Garnish Island, Glengarriff, Beara, Co. Cork, Photograph by Chris Hill 2014, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 5]

general enquiries: (027) 63040

garanishisland@opw.ie

Ilnacullin is an island in the coastal harbour at Glengariff in Bantry Bay. It has an almost sub-tropical climate with mild winters and high levels of rainfall and humidity. These conditions favour the growth of exotic plants. The gardens were set out in the Arts and Crafts style and contain Italianate pavilions and follies, framed against a backdrop of beautiful views.

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/ilnacullin-garinish-island/:

Ilnacullin is an island garden of diminutive size and rare beauty. Nestled in the sheltered coastal harbour at Glengarriff in Bantry Bay, the gardens display a wealth of unique horticultural and architectural gems. Bryce House is a fitting memorial to the visionary creators of this unique place. 

The gardens of Ilnacullin owe their existence to the early twentieth-century creative partnership of John Annan and Violet Bryce, the island’s owners, and Harold Peto, an architect and garden designer. The area enjoys a mild and humid micro-climate that makes for spectacular and flourishing plant life all year round.

Small ferry boats and 60-seater waterbuses take visitors to Ilnacullin regularly. The short crossing usually includes an extra treat – a visit to the nearby seal colony and an opportunity to glimpse majestic sea eagles.

The Island was bequeathed to the Irish people by the Bryce’s son, Roland, in 1953 and is cared for by the OPW. Bryce House contains material from the Bryces’s lives, including John Annan Bryce’s collection of Burmese statues, Chinese ceramics, Japanese woodblock prints, metal works and rare exotic objects. There are also Old Master drawings by Salvator Rosa, Mauro Antonio Tesi and Giambattista Tiepolo. Over the years the Bryces hosted prominent cultural figures such as George (AE) Russell, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie. [11] You can see a tour of the house and gardens on the website.

From “In Harmony with Nature, The Irish Country House Garden 1600-1900” in the Irish Georgian Society, July 2022, curated by Robert O’Byrne.
From “In Harmony with Nature, The Irish Country House Garden 1600-1900” in the Irish Georgian Society, July 2022, curated by Robert O’Byrne.

[1] https://repository.dri.ie/

[2] p. 12, Living Legacies: Ireland’s National Historic Properties in the care of the OPW, Government Publications, Dublin, 2018.

[3] p. 310, Keohane, Frank. The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020.

[4] p. 261, Keohane, Frank. Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County, Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2020.

[5] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en

[6] See also https://doneraileestate.ie

[7] p. 377. Keohane, Frank. Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County, Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2020.

Another work Keohane identifies as being by Benjamin Crawley is Castle Bernard, now a ruin in County Cork:

Castle Bernard, County Cork, photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

[8] p. 105. Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[9] fotahouse.com

[10] https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/fota-arboretum-and-gardens/

[11] https://garinishisland.ie/the-house-and-gardens/

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com