Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
‘Bremore, 9th June 1783, the castle of Bremore about a mile N.of Balbriggan is situated on a rising ground very near the sea and commands a delightful prospect therof. It seems rather a modern building with good limestone quoins,window frames, munnions etc,the door on the W,side is particularly neat,ornamented on each side with pilaster wch support a suitable pediment in the space of wch are two coat of arms parted and pale Vizt-Ermine, a border engrailed on the sinister side-Barnewall and a fess between 5 martins 3 and 2, on the dexter side.The lower part of this case. is very strong and arched in a very irregular manner and the whole appears to me to have been not many years ago inhabited. Besides a number of garden walls and such like inclosures, still to be traced, are the walls of a Chapel in which is nothing remarkable…..‘ Antiquary Austin Cooper, 1783
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Located some twenty miles north of Dublin and overlooking the Irish Sea, Bremore is supposed to have been the location of a monastic settlement founded by St Molaga, a Welshman traditionally said to have introduced bee-keeping into Ireland. The ruins of a late-medieval church called St Molaga’s are located to the immediate south of Bremore Castle for which it served as a manorial chapel. As for the castle, or at least the lands on which it now stands, the earliest reference appears to date from c.1300 when one Willam Rosel de Brimor is referred to in the Calendar of Documents Relating to Ireland. More definitely, in 1316 Wolfran de Barnewall married Nichola, daughter of Robert de Clahull, and through this alliance acquired large tracts of land in north county Dublin. The Barnewalls have been mentioned here before (see Fallen Out of Use « The Irish Aesthete. Incidentally, the 21st and last Baron Trimlestown died last year). Wolfran and his descendants were a cadet branch of this family. By the time of his son Reginald’s death some time before 1395, the Barnewalls were being described as lords of Bremore, Balrothery and Balbriggan, although their main residence was Drimnagh Castle, situated a couple of miles west of central Dublin. In an inquisition of 1567 the estate at Bremore is stated to have consisted of ‘a castle, 8 messuages or buildings, a dovecote, 8 gardens and 132 acres’ and to have been held by Edward Barnewall of Drimnagh, ‘as of his manor of Balrothery.’ This is the earliest reference to a castle being located here. A mid-16th century limestone mantel, now housed in St Macculin’s church but thought to have originally been made for the castle, celebrates the marriage of Edward Barnewall’s son James to Margaret St Lawrence, whose family lived at Howth Castle. The Barnewalls remained Roman Catholic during the Confederate Wars of the 1640s and in the Civil Survey carried out during the following decade, the property of Matthew Barnewall, ‘Irish Papist’, was described as containing ‘one burnt castle with a great barne and eight tenements, one orchard & parke with some young ash trees.’ His son James regained the estate in 1663 and presumably refurbished the building. However, he – or perhaps his son – had no male heirs, only a daughter Eleanor, who married Walter Bagenal in 1706. The link with the Barnewalls then ended as Bremore and its surrounding lands were sold for £7,000 to Henry Petty, Earl of Shelburne, from whom the property passed to the Petty-Fitzmaurices, Marquesses of Lansdowne.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
No longer occupied by its owners but instead let to tenants, Bremore Castle gradually fell into decay. Austin Cooper’s report of the building has already been cited. In 1837 Samuel Lewis noted ‘the ruins of Bremore castle, the ancient seat of a branch of the Barnewall family, consisting of some of the out-buildings and part of a chapel, with a burial ground, which is still used by some of the inhabitants’. John D’Alton in 1844 referred to ‘the ancient castle, of which traces are yet discernible’ and commanging ‘that sublime and extensive prospect over land and sea.’ By this time the castle was occupied by a tenant called John King and his descendants remained there until 1926, although Bremore Castle and its surrounding lands had been sold by the fifth Marquess of Lansdowne to the Land Commission in 1904. Another family acquired the building and remained there until finally the old building came into the possession of Dublin County Council in 1984. A decade later, following the break-up of that authority, the newly-created Fingal County Council became responsible for Bremore Castle. Since then, a programme of reconstruction, incorporating the opportunity to train stonemasons and other craftsmen and using traditional materials and methods, has been proceeding on the site. At the time of its initial construction in the 15th/16th century, Bremore Castle consisted of a rectangular hall-house with eastern flanking tower, a two storey extension being introduced on the north-western facade in the late 16th – early 17th century. Not a lot of this survived into the late 20th century. Today it has been rebuilt to an idealised version of a fortified house based on a sketch of the western view of the castle made by Austin Cooper in 1783, with a number of conjectural embellishments to both exterior and interior, the latter’s chimneypieces, doors and window openings in large measure being new additions inspired by examples of fortified houses from the 15th to 17th centuries surviving elsewhere in the country. It has been a long-running project and one that has yet to be finished.
Bremore Castle, County Dublin, courtesy Irish Aesthete.
A sketch of Henry Petty (1675-1751) Earl of Shelburne by George Townshend, 4th Viscount and 1st Marquess Townshend National Portrait Gallery of London ref. 4855(15)
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 275. “(Balfour/LGI1912; Crichton, Erne, e/PB) Francis Johnston’s Classical masterpiece, just as Charleville Forest is his masterpiece in Gothic. A house “of singular and impressive austerity” in the words of Christopher Hussey [of Country Life, I believe – Jen]. Designed 1794 for Blayney Balfour. Of two storeys over a basement, with three seven bay fronts that are identical except that the entrance front has a single storey Grecian Doric portico with coupled columns; and devoid of all ornament except for a string-course and a bold cornice; deriving their beauty from perfect proportions. Parapeted roof. Entrance hall with coffered ceiling and arched recesses in the manner of Soane. Superb central rotunda, lit by glazed dome, with a wonderfully light and graceful staircase curving up inside it. Around the upper storey of his rotunda are apses, niches and arched recesses, producing an “endlessly curving movement” and an infinite variety of spatial effects; Mrs Townley Balfour, the widow of the grandson of the builder, said, after living in the house for more than thirty years, that it gave her pleasure every time she passed up and down the staircase. Large, simple rooms arranged around the central rotunda; library with lightly coffered ceiling en suite with drawing room hung with jade-green Chinese wallpaper. Kitchen wing extending along one side of yard at basement level, with windows set in deep arches and Grecian Doric columns supporting plain and massive entablatures under relieving arches. Inherited, after the death of Mrs Townley Balfour 1954, by Mr David Crichton, who sold it to Trinity College Dublin 1956.”
Portrait of Mary (d. 1754), daughter of Hamilton Townley, married Blayney Townley (Balfour) (1705-1788) of Townley Hall, ENGLISH SCHOOL (MID 18TH CENTURY) courtesy Adam’s 11 Oct 2011.She was previously the wife of William Barton Tenison.Florence Townley-Balfour née Cole (1779-1862) daughter of William Willoughby Cole 1st Earl of Enniskillen, she married Blayney Townley-Balfour (1769-1856). Painting by Richard Rothwell, courtesy of National Trust Florence Court.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall’ by GARRET MORPHY (c. 1655 – 1715) courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.A Lady of the Townley-Balfour Family, of Townley Hall, attributed to Charles Jervas, courtesy of Adams Country House Collections auction Oct 2023.
The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Sim Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569338 The entrance front of Townley Hall. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569336 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 178 View along the drive up to the entrance front of Townley Hall through parkland. The house was built in the late 1790s by Francis Johnston. Not Used Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 569337
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Not Used CL 23/07/1948 Image Number: 568918
Image Number: 568920
The spiral of the staircase in the central domed rotunda at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 23/07/1948 Image Number: 535673 Publication Date: 23/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 1978
Image Number: 568917
The drawing room at Townley Hall, hung with a jade green chinese paper. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510404 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 A section of the chinese wallpaper hung in the drawing room at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 510405 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228 The library at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568919 An interior at Townley Hall. Not Used Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 568916The attic dormitory for bachelors at Townley Hall. Pub Orig Country Life 30/07/1948 Image Number: 537034 Publication Date: 30/07/1948 Volume: CIV Page: 228
featured in Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life. Sean O’Reilly. Aurum Press Ltd, London, 1998.
p. 119. “The progress into the curvilinear staircase hall from the rectilinear entrance hall is indeed one of the great moments of Irish classical architecture…urged from Hussey a plaudit with which many would agree: ‘I would dare say there is nothing lovelier than this rotunda in the Georgian architecture in the British Isles.’ The contrast of sweeping curve and straight line inside the house is anticipated outside, but inversely, and only in the most subtle fashion. Here the rigid formality of the stone box of Townley is offset against rolling landscape, pitted with bulbous clumps of trees modulating the already undulating horizon.”
p. 120 [The first floor landing is integrated with lobbies behind arches, feeding to the rooms, a variation of the Irish top-lit circulation lobby.]
“The landscape itself is not untypical of the plains of northern Leinster’s interior, the region in which the Townley estate sits. Located near the banks of the River Boyne in Co Louth, it came to Blaney Townley-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1788.
It was in the years before his marriage in 1797 to Lady Florence Cole, daughter of the 1st Earl of Enniskillen, that the young gentleman planned and commenced a building that would come to represent a whole new phase in the history of Irish architecture. His Townley Hall, designed and built in the 1790s, could stand proudly beside the greatest house then being built in the country, Castlecoole, Co Fermanagh, situated only a county westwrard. Furthermore, being designed by a young Irish architect of obvious talent, Francis Johnston, the hew house instigated an enthusiasm for the work of native architects that would carry into the following century.
Hussey wrote of the house’s ‘remarkable… essentially Irish classicism – as contrasted with that of the alien architects’ so often employed in Ireland. Throughout the building, austerity and structural rationalism combine to produce a style imbued with contemporary Grecian taste, but evocative too of the mood of early Christian builders in Ireland, for whom architecture was the simple expression of structural logic.
In the staircase hall itself may be found the simple expression – however difficult the execution – of the fundamental structure of the cantilevered stone staircase. One of the great developments in Irish Georgian architecture, and well represented also in the staircase at Castletown, Co Kildare, this principle consists of stone slabs – the steps – wedged into a supporting wall, without support for their projecting ends. At Townley, Johnston takes full advantage of the slightness such a treatment will aloow to give an especially open effect in the rotunda of the staircase hall. This pure space, measuring roughly ten metres by fourteen, with coffered ceiling and panelled walls, is twisted through by the sweeping visual corkscrew of the staircase, showing how good architecture can become great.
p. 123. Assimilated into this majestic staircase hall is a distinctively Irish arrangement, the top-lit first floor landing of the type found at Russborough. Hussey published his own schematic drawing in order to explain how the top of the staircase gave access to the first floor rooms through rectangular lobbies extending from the curved landing in the hall proper. However, he did not refer to the pattern as a development from the Irish lobby arrangement, through it might be contrasted easily with the more architectonic – if less imaginative – variant at Castlecoole.
Johnston’s design for Townley Hall also displayed an apparently natural appreciation of progressive country house design. Outside, he eschews unnecessary ornament, and creates a buiding which rises like some classical temple directly from the ground – without the intercession of steps, area or a raised basement – as the best of contemporary taste required. Inside, continuing the mood, a sequence of vast pure spaces regulated by proportion and shallow ornament renders the very flow between rooms into the poetry of the architecture.
Though it is a building of apparent simplicity, in fact Townley Hall is one of ingenious duplicity. Behind its tall cornice hides a pitched roof of sufficient scale to hold an attic lit by dormers, while below its earthen base lies another floor. This, and more, is revealed at the rear, where in addition to the actual four storey elevation is found the discreetly hidden kitchen wing and court. This last, an aspect of the modern convenience that always clouded the primitive aspirations of the most intense neoclassical patrons and architects, is the only part of the exterior to receive arches.
Frances Johnston was a pupil of Thomas Cooley and, after the building of Townley Hall, he soon came to establish himself as Ireland’s finest native-born architect since Edward Lovett Pearce. Yet the commission for Blaney Townley -Balfour was not gained lightly. His patron looked for designs first, in 1792, from the noted Scottish neoclassicist James Playfair. Playfair records in his diaries the completion of his designs of July of that year, the work having been requested at a meeting in Rome the previous April. [p. 124] However, by 1794 Johnston had been decided upon as the new architect, and was soon able to supply a detailed estimate for the proposed house. The degree to which Johnston relied on the designs of the Scottish master is uncertain. What is clear is that a number of features explored by Playfair persist in Johnston’s work, from the use of seven-bay elevation to details in the kitchen court and even the door panelling – this last has a close parallel at Playfair’s own Cairness, Aberdeenshire. The cornices may be best compared to those of Johnston’s master Thomas Cooley at Caledon. Regardless of this, however, the character of the building has been made very much his own.
Johnston’s estimate of £10,473, exclusive of decoration, was substantial, especially considering the lack of elaboration typical of this phase of neoclassicism. Much of the expense was due to a tireless sophistication of detail and the emphasis given to the provision of modern facilities. Townley, exceptional for its day, was equipped with running water, and the surviving drawings include a plan of these services.
It is especially fortunate that a number of original documents and drawings survive, many now held in the Irish Architectural Archive in Dublin. The mason is identified as John Glover of nearby Drogheda, but there is no record of the decorators who supplied the furnishings, and many of these may have been supplied through the architect.
Followign the death of Mrs Townley-Balfour in 1954, widow of the grandson of Blaney Townley-Balfour and resident during the time of Hussey’s visit, it passed to David Crichton, from whom it was purchased by Trinity College Dublin in 1956, to serve as its first school of agriculture. It has more recently been in the possession of a private institution. Unfortunately, little of its original furniture survives and the kitchen wing, beautifully documented by Westley, has been gutted.
[the attic dormitories are carefully detailed – note the curved fans to the corners over the window shutters – marking its original formal use as a barracks for the male visitors.]
Townley Hall is a magnificent Georgian mansion built just over 200 years ago on a hilltop setting. Today it is surrounded by 60 acres of rolling parkland overlooking the Boyne Valley, very close to the site of the famous battle. The location is strikingly beautiful and peaceful.
The House is an architectural jewel. It is renowned for its exquisite interior, wonderful proportions, the quality of the materials and craftsmanship used in its construction and, in particular, its magnificent staircase – of which Country Life magazine once said:
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems.
Built in 1799, Townley Hall is regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family, it was designed to impress on the visitor not only the wealth and sophistication of a substantial landlord, but the craftsmanship available in the local area. Having undergone only minor alterations in over two centuries, this house is one of Ireland’s hidden architectural gems. The poet laureate Sir John Betjeman, in a survey of the work of Francis Johnson wrote:
For information or bookings, contact the following:
Townley Hall It was designed by Irish architect Francis Johnston for the Townley Balfour family and built between 1794 and 1798, regarded as a masterpiece in the classical style of Francis Johnston, the foremost Irish architect of his day. It sits in quiet seclusion of private grounds, approached by a long wooded avenue. Commissioned as a private home for the Townley Balfour family.
Added notesfrom Irish Country Houses and Gardens, archives from Country Life, by Sean O’Reilly: Townley Hall, near the banks of River Boyne- a formal stone ‘box’, set off by rolling landscape and clumps of trees. It came to Blaney Townleu-Balfour on the death of his grandfather in 1780. It was described as “essential Irish Classicism”. There was an open rotunda staircase hall, inside, a sequence of vast, pure spaces- ingenious duplicity. Finally, in 1956, the House was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin, for the first School of Agriculture, but then went to a private institution. (It has attic dormitories). The kitchen was gutted.
Cupids play at the top of a blind niche in the rotunda of Townley Hall, County Louth, one of the loveliest houses in Ireland which has been discussed here on several occasions in the past (mostly notably Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté* on June 10th last year). Today marks the second anniversary of The Irish Aesthete, the first post being made on September 24th 2012. Two years later the site remains busy with at least three postings each week and, I am happy to report, an ever-increasing audience. In 2012 The Irish Aesthete received an average 23 views per day: the site now generates more than 610 views daily. Interest comes from across the world, the majority of visitors understandably resident in English-speaking countries but during the last quarter there have been substantial numbers from Brazil, the Russian Federation, Turkey and Vietnam, among many others. Whoever you are and wherever you live, thank you to all my readers for engaging with this site and for encouraging me to continue writing about Ireland’s architectural heritage, a subject dear to my heart and evidently to yours also. Your comments are always appreciated, although some of those written in more intemperate language may not be published (this site appreciates good manners). Please keep sending me your thoughts and responses, and in addition if you have suggestions for future subjects, I should be delighted to know of these: like all authors, I relish feedback. Thank you once again, and I look forward to retaining your interest over the next twelve months.
Two of the ceilings in Townley Hall, County Louth, that of the drawing room (above) and the entrance hall (below). Dating from the late 1790s Townley has been discussed here before, not least its rotunda stairhall (see Là, tout n’est qu’ordre et beauté, June 10th) but amply repays further visits. The neo-classical masterpiece of Francis Johnston, the house owes as much to the couple responsible for its commissioning – Blayney Townley and Lady Florence Balfour – as to the architect. As these photographs show, the purity of decoration throughout is flawless.
In 1788 nineteen-year old Blayney Townley Balfour inherited the estate of Townley, County Louth from his grandfather. Sensitive, intelligent and affluent, around the time he came of age Balfour consulted with architect Francis Johnston about building a new house at Townley to replace the existing structure: Johnston had not long before completed work for Archbishop Richard Robinson at nearby Rokeby Hall (see Building on a Prelate’s Ambition, February 4th). At that stage the proposed design was not dissimilar from that seen at Rokeby, the idea being to construct a tall pedimented block. The project proceeded no further before 1791 when Balfour departed for France with his mother and sisters. Leaving them behind in Nice, he went on to Italy and spent time exploring the heritage of Florence and Rome, in the latter city meeting the Scottish neo-classical architect James Playfair. Following Balfour’s return to Ireland in early 1793 he received three designs for a new house from Playfair and while some of the ideas these contained (specifically the notion of a sunken courtyard at the rear of the building to accommodate kitchen and other services) were eventually incorporated, none of them was used by Townley Hall’s owner.
Informed by all he had seen on mainland Europe, once back in Ireland Balfour reverted to Francis Johnston. Yet the outcome of this commission seems to owe as much to client as architect. Indeed Balfour and one of his sisters Anne produced their own drawings for the proposed house and came up with its most distinctive feature: the circular central stair hall. Nevertheless the specifics of Townley Hall were designed by Johnston and it is justifiably considered to be his masterpiece. From the exterior, the building could not be more simple and unadorned: an apparently two-storey block (there is also a basement, and an attic level concealed behind the roof parapet) faced in limestone with each side of seven bays (except for the rear) and measuring ninety feet. The entrance is distinguished only by a plain porch with paired and fluted Doric columns and the windows are no more than openings in their respective walls.
The interior of Townley Hall is equally spare, but the occasional decorative flourish is so well applied and the quality of workmanship so flawless that the result is a building of rare refinement. Even so, nothing prepares a first-time visitor for the coup de foudre which lies at the heart of the house: its stair hall. This space owes an obvious debt to Palladio’s Villa Rotonda and to the Pantheon, both that in Rome and that designed in London by James Wyatt in 1772. Indeed Wyatt’s influence on Johnston’s work at Townley Hall is generally accepted, not least because in 1796 Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole whose family lived at Florence Court, County Fermanagh which is not far from Wyatt’s own neo-classical masterpiece Castle Coole.
Four mahogany doors set on the cardinal points and within relieving arches open into the stair hall. The cantilevered Portland stone stairs (with slender brass balusters finishing in a mahogany handrail) rise with gentle sinuosity around the wall perimeter, breaking once to form a landing directly above the door facing that from the entrance hall. At this level the doors are surrounded by arched frames which are also repeated around the curved walls, even when the stairs intervene. In order to minimise the divide between ground and first floor Johnston devised a shallow stepped Greek key border interwoven with a vine tendril, lines of acorns hanging from the lower section. Once on the landing, greater degrees of decoration are permitted, not least in the treatment of a further series of arches alternately left clear and filled with stuccowork of frolicking putti (and in three places they open into shallow lobbies providing access to bedrooms). At their topmost point these arches are tied by keystones to a frieze beneath the dome of ox skulls between swathes of drapery. Above it all rises the lightly coffered dome of thirty feet diameter, the central portion being glazed. There are times when language cannot do justice to a work of art, and Townley’s stair hall is one of them: the pictures shown here are infinitely more eloquent. The elegance of proportions, the perfection of form, the play of light on surface all combine to make this without question one of the loveliest rooms in the country, a flawless piece of design, the culmination of 18th century Irish architecture and a tribute to those responsible for its creation. No longer a private house, the building is now under the care of the School of Philosophy and Economic Science which is currently undertaking a programme of repair.
*From Charles Baudelaire’s L’invitation au voyage.
With thanks to Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects.
Radiating Portland stone lozenges cover the floor of the staircase hall at Townley Hall, County Louth. Dating from the late 1790s, the house is architect Francis Johnston’s masterpiece, one of the purest examples of neo-classicism in Ireland. This also marks the hundredth piece from the Irish Aesthete since the site made its debut last September. And so readers, you are cordially invited to offer feedback: what subjects most interest you; about what would you like to read more; are there buildings or subjects you wish to see featured? As ever, comments of the literate and temperate variety are welcomed.
The limestone gate lodge of Townley Hall, County Louth, believed to have been designed around 1819 by the main house’s architecturally informed owner Blayney Townley Balfour and his wife Lady Florence Cole. Taking the form of a dimunitive Greek temple, it makes a striking impression not least thanks to the pedimented and Doric columned portico. Although now empty, it continues to be well preserved and to demonstrate the possibility of achieving a lot with a little.
As has been discussed here before, Townley Hall, County Louth is one of Ireland’s most perfect neo-classical buildings (see: https://theirishaesthete.com/2013/06/10/la-tout-nest-quordre-et-beaute). The house was designed in the mid-1790s by Francis Johnston, who until then had been employed primarily by Richard Robinson, Archbishop of Armagh, often to complete commissions left unfinished following the early death of Thomas Cooley in 1784. Townley Hall is his first independent piece of work although here again the client’s involvement was critical since it is known that Blayney Townley Balfour, who owned the property, and his sister Anna Maria were intimately involved in every stage of the design.
Johnston was invited to design not just Townley Hall itself but also a number of ancillary buildings, including a new stableyard. His plans for this survive and are dated between 1799 (work being initiated on the site in May of that year) and 1804. The intention was to build around a rectangular courtyard with coach house and grainstore topped by a cupola on the north side, and stables coming forward to its immediate east and west. The south side was to be taken up by screen wall with arched entrance. Sadly this scheme was never realized, possibly for financial reasons (like many other house builders before and since, Blayney Townley Balfour discovered the initial budget was insufficient). Instead, while the northern range was constructed, it lacked the proposed cupola, and only the western range of stables were finished; a terrace of single-storey cottages runs along the eastern side of the site. Likewise the south wall with entrance arch was left unbuilt, and even a modified plan for railings with piers went unrealized. A drawing of the plan survives a penciled note reading ‘not built yet – 1837 FTB’, those initials standing for Lady Florence Townley Balfour (daughter of the first Earl of Enniskillen) who had married Blayney Townley Balfour in 1797.
As is well known, Townley Hall was sold by the heirs of the Townley Balfour family in the 1950s and, having been owned for a short period of time by Trinity College Dublin, was sold again with the Land Commission taking the greater part of the surrounding estate. Many of the ancillary buildings are no longer part of Townley Hall, including the former stableyard. Almost every other part of the former estate has been restored and brought into use, but sadly this element, which is, it seems, independently owned, has languished in neglect for a number of years, and is now in poor repair. Even if not as originally intended by Johnston, the yard remains associated with what is widely judged to be his masterpiece, and accordingly deserves a better fate.
In 1611, Sir Michael Balfour (d. 1619), 1st Lord Balfour of Burleigh, was appointed as one of the undertakers of the plantation of Ulster, and given a grant of 3,000 acres in County Fermanagh. Being preoccupied with affairs in England and Scotland, he seems to have made over some 2,000 acres of this grant to his younger brother, Sir James Balfour (d. 1634) (ennobled in 1619 as 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley in the Irish peerage), and to have sold the remainder to Sir Stephen Butler. In about 1618 Sir James built Balfour Castle at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) in fulfilment of the requirement on the plantation undertakers to establish defensible homes on their estates, and in 1626 he had a further grant of lands in Fermanagh. At some point before 1634, however, he sold the Pitcullo estate in Fife and his property in northern Ireland to Sir William Balfour (c.1575-1660), a soldier who was in the service of the States of Holland until 1627 and thereafter in that of King Charles I. Sir William is sometimes described as Lord Balfour of Glenawley’s cousin, but although the two men were evidently kin, any connection between them lay in the 15th century or earlier and is too distant to be traced. Sir William, who was Constable of the Tower of London 1630-41, can have had little time for his Irish property, but when it was threatened by the Irish rebellion of 1641, he dispatched his eldest son to Ireland as part of the Scots army sent to put down the rebellion, and he later obtained a commission to take a regiment to Ireland himself, although the start of the English civil war the following year prevented his going. Sir William’s staunch Presbyterian and anti-Catholic views (it is said that in 1638 he beat up a priest who attempted to convert his wife to Catholicism) led to increasingly uncertainty about his loyalty to Charles I, and at the end of 1641 he seems to have been forced to resign the constableship of the Tower. When the English Civil War began the following summer he joined the Parliamentarian side, and he was active in the field in many of the major engagements until 1645, when his health seems to have broken down, and he gave up his commands. Parliament ordered the payment of all his arrears of pay (some £7,000), but shortly afterwards doubts arose about his loyalty which were made a convenient excuse to defer payment, and much of the amount was still outstanding in 1655. In his declining years, Sir William made his home in Westminster, where he died in 1660, having lived just long enough to see the restoration of the monarchy. His widow, Isabella, continued to live there until her death in 1678.
Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) married twice. By his first wife, he had two sons, Alexander and William, who were both soldiers like their father. The intention seems to have been for Alexander to inherit the Irish estates and for William to inherit Pitcullo, but in fact both men were killed during the Civil War, so that Sir William’s property devolved on his only son by his second wife, Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713). It may be that Pitcullo formed part of the dowry of one of Sir William’s three daughters, or it may have been sold, but at all events it seems to have left the family at this time, and Charles and his descendants only had significant property in Ireland. Balfour Castle seems to have survived the Civil Wars of the mid 17th century and to have been reinforced in 1652 by Edmund Ludlow as a Protestant stronghold. It was less fortunate in 1689, when it is said to have been ‘dismantled’, presumably by the army of King James II, in a conflict in which Charles’s son, William Balfour (d. 1739) was active in the Williamite cause. Although the house was evidently repaired and continued in use down to 1803, it was probably no longer fit for gentry occupation, and the house belonging to William at Lisnaskea in 1730 (which was then said to be in poor condition and occupied as an alehouse) was probably a house in the town rather than the castle. William, who was the first of his family known to have served as an MP, probably lived mainly in Dublin. The estate was gradually fragmented by land sales in the late 17th and early 18th centuries, and it was a greatly diminished property which passed at William’s death in 1739 to his nephew, Henry (or Harry) Townley, who took the additional surname Balfour as a condition of his inheritance.
Henry Townley (1693-1741) was the son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont Hall, Louth and his wife Lucy, the sister of William Balfour. Blayney Townley had been born at Athclare Castle near Dunleer (Co. Louth), but apparently went to live at Piedmont Hall on his marriage in 1692. It seems likely that this property had belonged to his family for some time, but the house there may have been built for him. It was already shown as ruined on the 1st edition Ordnance Survey of Ireland 6″ map in the mid-19th century, but an account of 1924, when about half of the original house was still standing, described it as ‘a long, two-storied slated house’, very tall and narrow from front to back, with three high pitched gables facing the rear. Only a gable-end seems to survive today, and no illustration of the house has been found. At Piedmont House, Blayney and Lucy Townley raised a family of three sons and four daughters, and also Lucy’s daughter by her first husband. Henry Townley (later Townley Balfour) was their eldest son, and inherited Piedmont Hall on his father’s death as well as the Balfour Castle estate. He and his wife had only one son and one daughter, and the son, William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) died without issue, with the result that the estates passed to Henry’s surviving younger brother, Blayney Townley Townley (1705-88) of Townley Hall (Co. Louth), which he had acquired through his marriage to his cousin Mary, daughter of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall. Blayney Townley took the additional name Balfour on coming into his inheritance, and ever afterwards the heir in each generation had the names Blayney Townley Balfour.
In 1788, on the death of Blayney Townley Balfour (d. 1788), the Townley Hall, Piedmont Hall and Balfour Castle estates all descended to his grandson of the same name (1769-1856), who was travelling in Germany and Switzerland at the time. A cultured young man, he took a particular interest in architecture, and before leaving for further continental travels in 1791-92, he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from the young Irish architect, Francis Johnston (1760-1829). Johnston’s design, for a tall pedimented block very much like his recently completed house at Rokeby Hall (Co. Louth) survives, but evidently did not satisfy his client. While in Rome, Townley Balfour commissioned alternative designs from the Scottish architect James Playfair which were delivered in 1793, after his return to Ireland. All Playfair’s schemes proposed a neo-classical house with a sunk basement and detached kitchen wing, and these ideas provided the starting point for Balfour and his sister Anne, an accomplished amateur of architecture, to develop their own design. It was they who came up with the idea of planning the house around a circular staircase hall 30ft in diameter set in the centre of a house 90ft square. Having done so, they went back to Johnston, who developed the detailed proposals that allowed the house to actually be built and prepared an estimate for its construction in January 1794. In 1797, Balfour married Lady Florence Cole, a daughter of the Earl of Erne from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh), who came to share the interest of her husband and sister-in-law in architecture. She perhaps introduced her husband to the sophisticated elegance of James Wyatt’s work at Castle Coole, near her parents’ home, echoes of which can be found in the detailing and interior decoration of Townley Hall.
In 1821, B.T. Balfour sold what was left of the Balfour Castle estate to his father-in-law (then approaching the venerable age of ninety) and thereafter the interests of the family were concentrated in County Louth. The one exception to that seems to have been a property at Rostrevor (Co. Down), which seems to have become, in effect, the family’s dower house. Balfour’s sister Anne (d. 1820), who married the Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson, rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), lived in her short widowhood at Rostrevor and the family may have owned a property there from that time onwards.
At all events, when Balfour died in 1856 and his son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) moved into Townley Hall, his widow and her unmarried daughters moved to Rostrevor, where they acquired an irregular picturesque villa with deep eaves, bay windows, bargeboards, and Tudor hoodmoulds over some of the windows. This house, known as Fairy Hill, stood close to the centre of the village, and seems to have been built in the 1830s or 1840s, perhaps for the previous owner, Pierse Marcus Barron, who was resident in 1851. The family seem to have sold it after the last of the Balfour sisters died in 1892.
Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) seems to have spend a good deal of his time in England, where he lived in both London and Bristol at different times. He was a friend of Lord Goderich, who was briefly Prime Minister in the 1820s, and who seems to have secured his appointment as Lieutenant Governor of the Bahamas, 1833-35, an isolated public appointment in the career of an otherwise rather private man of antiquarian interests. He was succeeded by his elder son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928), a cultured man, also with antiquarian interests, who married late and had no children. In 1908 he became one of the first landowners in County Louth to take advantage of the Wyndham Act and sell his estate to his tenants. He retained only the demesne (still some 850 acres), and when he died, this and the house passed to his widow, Madeline Balfour (d. 1955). She bequeathed the estate to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it two years later to Trinity College, Dublin. The house was restored and occupied by the college’s School of Agriculture for some years, but in 1967 the University decided to sell the estate to the Land Commission and the Forestry Dept. Professor Frank Mitchell, one of the fellows of TCD, who was concerned about the fate of other houses which had passed into the hands of the agencies of the Irish state, stepped in to buy the house and immediate grounds to ensure their preservation. He and his wife turned the house into a study centre, and when they decided to retire, they found a charitable organisation, the School of Philosophy and Economic Science, who have on the whole been sympathetic owners and have carried out a fine restoration of the house.
Townley Hall, Co. Louth
One of the greatest neo-classical houses of Ireland, built in 1794-98 for Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court (Co. Fermanagh) to designs by Francis Johnston, but evidently with considerable input from Balfour himself and his sister Anne, who emerges as an accomplished amateur architect.
Townley Hall: entrance front.
The square house of grey limestone sits on the crown of a shallow hill and has three seven-bay fronts ’of singular and impressive austerity’ of two storeys above a sunk basement; the kitchen offices (which became derelict and roofless in the 20th century but have been recently returned to use for new purposes) are below ground level and open onto a broad yard at the back of the house which is almost entirely concealed from view.
Townley Hall: the Greek Doric portico on the entrance front. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The main facades are identical except for the single-storey Greek Doric portico on the entrance front, and devoid of all ornament except for a stringcourse and a bold cornice supporting a parapet that conceals the low-pitched roof. The facades derive their beauty from perfect proportions and the precision and accomplishment of the detail.
Inside, the entrance hall has a Portland stone floor, coffered ceiling, arched recesses on the walls and a pair of finely carved Doric chimneypieces. It leads through to a central top-lit circular rotunda with a glazed dome, which houses the wonderfully graceful staircase curving gently around the wall of the room. The floor has a complex radiating pattern of angular lozenges. On the first floor the wall is articulated as a succession of eight shallow arches, tied by enlarged keystones to a frieze of ox skulls set between swathes of fringed drapery. The soffit of the dome is panelled in light diagonal coffers in a pattern based on the popular model of the apses of the Temple of Venus in Rome, but subtly adapted by Johnston to be lighter and more elegant. In designing the room, Johnston has also avoided a heavy division between the ground and first floors, or between the first floor and the dome, so that the whole cylindical space of the rotunda flows upwards in an unbroken movement.
Townley Hall: staircase hall in 1996. Image: Nick Kingsley. Some rights reserved.
The rest of the interior consists of a series of generously large, airy rooms with simple decoration of refreshing clarity, arranged around the staircase hall and given sophistication by the quality of their joinery and plasterwork, which is evidently influenced (in both details such as the central circular panels of the drawing room doors and the drawing room ceiling) by a knowledge of what was being done at Castlecoole (Co. Fermanagh) under the direction of James Wyatt. The drawing room and dining room in particular are beautifully proportioned rooms, 18 ft high, 24 ft wide and 36 ft long. The rightness of these ratios is felt within each room and is enhanced by the clean lines of the cornices and the shallow mouldings on ceilings, doors, architraves and shutters.
In the basement below the staircase hall, the great weight of the Portland stone pavement above required support. The first idea was to build a circular load-bearing wall in the centre of the room, but in the end this was replaced by a more elegant quatrefoil Gothick shaft, which is plumbed to carry water to four stone basins at the base of the shaft. It is the one departure from the classical in the house, and seems to be inspired by a famous local antiquity, the lavabo at Mellifont Abbey, some three miles away. The execution of the Gothic mouldings, carved by a mason called Glover, is as precise as the classical detail elsewhere.
After their marriage in 1796, Lady Florence Balfour came to share the architectural interests of her husband and sister-in-law, and it was certainly she and her husband who designed the main entrance gates, erected in 1810, and probably the gate lodge, built in 1819 as a primitive temple, perhaps to prepare the visitor for the radical austerity of the house. Built in an unorthodox Tuscan order, its portico has baseless columns with smooth shafts, primitive blockish capitals, and a deeply overhanging eaves cornice supported on elongated mutules – a miniature and neo-classical reworking of Inigo Jones’ design for St. Paul, Covent Garden.
Townley Hall: the gate lodge designed in 1819 by Blayney and Lady Florence Balfour. Image: Patrick Comerford
Since 2012 the house has been undergoing a programme of gentle repair and refreshment under the experienced guidance of MVK Architects. A major element of the scheme has been the return of the former kitchen wing to habitable use as bedroom and bathroom accommodation for the residential study centre which now occupies the house, and this is very welcome in principle. Unfortunately, to provide the accommodation required a second floor and lift tower has been added to the kitchen wing, and the decision has been made to execute this in a minimalist modern style in the apparent belief that this will somehow echo the austerity of Johnston’s original design. This is misguided on at least two levels. In the first place, there is a world of difference between the precise and refined restraint of the original design, which is practised within the fundamental constraints imposed by the classical language, and the interstellar-void-bleakness of modernist austerity. Secondly, the elevation of the wing to the sunk rear courtyard was the one part of the original design that broke with the severity of the main block, having an elegant arcade of three tall arched windows (lighting the kitchen) set between a pair of unusual features in which a low segmental arch is cut by a beam, at the level of the impost of the kitchen arcade, and supported by a pair of baseless, unfluted columns. The alien new extension squats on top of this highly modelled facade with all the charm and responsiveness of a shoe box. Moreover, whereas the original design carefully sunk the kitchen wing into the ground, so that from three sides the house appeared unencumbered by any service additions, the addition of a second floor means it is now visible in all views of the house from the north, south and west. One hopes that this uncharacteristic lapse of judgement will soon be corrected, and the addition either removed or remodelled in a more acceptable form.
Descent: Hamilton Townley (b. 1673); to daughter Mary, wife of Blayney Townley Balfour (1705-88); to grandson, Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856); to son, Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882); to son, Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928); to widow, Madeline Elizabeth Balfour (d. 1955); to cousin, David Crichton; sold 1956 to Trinity College, Dublin for use by its School of Agriculture; sold 1967 to Professor Frank Mitchell; sold to School of Philosophy and Economic Science, a charity, for use as a residential study centre.
Balfour family of Castle Balfour and Townley Hall
Balfour, Lt-Gen. Sir William (c.1575-1660). Elder son of Col. Henry Balfour (d. 1580), a mercenary in the service of William of Orange, and his wife Christian, sister of Capt. David Cant, perhaps born c.1575. Educated by Duncan Balfour of St. Andrews, who was appointed his tutor after his father’s death. He served at intervals as an officer in the Scottish brigade in the Low Countries (Lt. by 1594; Sergeant-Major, 1610; Capt., 1615-24), but was also a member of the household of King James VI and I. In 1627 King Charles I secured his release from Dutch service and he became an officer in the Earl of Morton’s regiment (Lt-Col.), and then in 1630 Governor of the Tower of London. He was knighted by King James I in about 1605 and made a Gentleman of the Privy Chamber in the late 1620s. He was employed on a variety of difficult and confidential missions by King Charles, and rewarded with a lucrative patent to mint gold and silver money at the Tower in 1633. He was appointed to the King’s Council of War in June 1638 and continued in favour until 1641, but his strong Presbyterianism and strong anti-Catholicism seem gradually to have weakened his loyalty, and in December 1641 he either resigned or more probably was forced to resign, his Constableship of the Tower. In the spring of 1642 he was appointed to the command of a cavalry regiment destined for service in Ulster (where he no doubt hoped to protect his own property from the Catholic rebels), but before he could set off the English civil war had broken out and in August 1642 he joined the Parliamentarian side, being appointed a Lt-General of horse under the Earl of Bedford. He was active in the field until 1645 when he became too ill to continue fighting. As a Scot he was perhaps never wholly trusted by the English parliamentarians, and in 1650 when Cromwell proposed to invade Scotland he accepted a commission from the Scots parliament to command ‘strangers and native volunteers’, although he never seems to have taken up the command. In 1651 his wife was given four weeks to leave England, but later in the 1650s they lived quietly in Westminster. He married 1st, Helen (d. 1629), daughter of Sir Archibald Napier of Merchiston, and 2nd, Isabella (d. 1678), daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry More, son of Sir Edward More, and had issue: (1.1) Lt-Col. Alexander Balfour (fl. 1619-45); an officer in the service of the Dutch; married Elizabeth Anne Brunch or Bueuch, but perhaps had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Ireland; (1.2) Col. William Balfour (fl. 1619-44); had a grant of Pitcullo from his father, 24 August 1619; an officer in the Dutch army (Col.) and later in the service of Parliament as a cavalry commander during the Civil War, when he was active in Cornwall and Devon; married Christian Melville, but had no issue; killed in the Civil War in Somerset; (2.1) Charles Balfour (c.1631-1713) (q.v.); (2.2) Susanna Balfour (d. 1687); married 1st, c.1659, as his third wife, Hugh Hamilton (d. 1678), 1st Baron Hamilton of Glenawley, son of Malcolm Hamilton, Archbishop of Cashel, and had issue two sons and two daughters; married 2nd, Henry Mervyn MP (c.1628-1701) of Trillick (Tyrone); died in Dublin, 11 December, and was buried there 14 December 1687; (2.3) Emilia Balfour (d. 1683); married, before 1657, Alexander Stewart (1634-1701), 5th Earl of Moray and had issue four sons and one daughter; died 16 January 1683; (2.4) Isabella Balfour (fl. 1674); married, 1649, John Balfour (c.1620-97), 3rd Lord Balfour of Burleigh, and had issue three sons and six daughters. He purchased the lands and castle of Pitcullo and Castle Balfour at Lisnaskea (Co. Fermanagh) from Sir James Balfour (d. 1634), 1st Baron Balfour of Glenawley between 1626 and 1629. He was buried at Westminster (Middx), 28 July 1660. His first wife died in December 1629. His widow was buried at Westminster, 28 March 1674; her will was proved in the PCC, 1 April 1674.
Balfour, Charles (c.1631-1713). Only son of Sir William Balfour (d. 1660) and his second wife Isabella, daughter of Evert Bosch van Weede and widow of Henry Moore, born about 1631. He married, 1665, Cicely (c.1644-88), daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts) and had issue: (1) William Balfour (d. 1739) (q.v.); (2) Lucy Balfour (d. 1713) (q.v.); (3) A daughter. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1660. He died in May 1713. His wife died in about 1688.
Balfour, William (d. 1739). Only son of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). He was an officer in the army of the Prince of Orange in Ireland (Capt., 1688; retired on half-pay by 1713) and was attainted by King James II and the Irish Parliament in 1689. Despite this, he was initially a Tory in politics, but by 1713 had joined the Whigs; he was MP for Carlingford, 1705-13, and for Augher, 1713-14, 1715-39. He was awarded an honorary degree by Trinity College, Dublin, 1718 (LLD). High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1734. He was unmarried and without issue. He inherited Castle Balfour from his father in 1713, but by 1730 his house at Lisnaskea was being used as an alehouse and was in poor repair. At his death the estate passed to his nephew, Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741). He probably lived mainly in Dublin. He died 19 April 1739; his will was proved in Dublin the same year.
Balfour, Lucy (d. 1713). Elder daughter of Charles Balfour (d. 1713) and his wife Cicely, daughter and heir of Sir Robert Byron of Colwick (Notts). She married 1st, 1684, Hugh McGill (d. 1690) of Kirkestown (Co. Down) and 2nd, 14 November 1692, Blayney Townley (1665-1722) of Piedmont (Co. Louth) and Athclare Castle (Co. Louth), MP in Irish Parliament for Dunleer, 1692-93, 1695-99, 1703-14 and for Carlingford 1715-22, son of Henry Blayney (d. 1691) of Aclare (Louth), and had issue: (1.1) Jane McGill (c.1690-c.1776); married Samuel Molyneux Madden (1686-1765), and had issue one son and one daughter; (2.1) Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) (q.v.); (2.2) Elizabeth Townley (c.1694-1750); married, 1 October 1709, Rev. Hans Montgomerie (1668-1726), rector of Killinshee, vicar of Ballywalter and curate of Grey Abbey, and had issue four daughters; died 3 January 1750; (2.3) Charles Townley; (2.4) Mary Townley; (2.5) Lucy Townley; married [forename unknown] Berry; (2.6) Vincentia Townley (c.1704-63); married, 18 April 1730, Wallop Brabazon (1698-1767) of Rath (Louth), and had issue three sons and one daughter; died 1763. (2.7) Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) (q.v.). She and her second husband settled at Piedmont (Co. Louth). She died 14 June 1713 and was buried at Dunleer. Her first husband died between 1684 and 1692. Her second husband died at Piedmont, 22 August 1722, and was buried at Dunleer; his will was proved in Dublin, 1723.
Townley (later Balfour), Henry (1693-1741). Elder son of Blayney Townley (1665-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 19 December 1693. Sovereign (i.e. Mayor) of Carlingford, 1720, 1728; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1726. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1727-41. He took the additional surname Balfour in 1739 after inheriting the estates of his uncle, William Balfour, and was described by his obituarist as “a Gentleman of sweet Temper, great Honour and Hospitality, and every Virtue that could render a Man agreeable”. He married, 1724, Anne (d. 1741), daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wicklow), and had issue: (1) William Charles Townley Balfour (c.1730-59) (q.v.); (2) Emilia Balfour. He inherited the Piedmont (Co. Louth) estate from his father in 1722 and Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) from his maternal uncle in 1739. He died in Dublin, 20 July 1741. His wife’s will was proved in 1741.
Balfour, William Charles Townley (c.1730-59). Only son of Henry Townley (later Balfour) (1693-1741) and his wife Anne, daughter of Col. Henry Percy of Seskin (Co. Wexford), born about 1730. A member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1756-59. High Sheriff of Co. Fermanagh, 1757. MP in the Irish Parliament for Carlingford, 1757-59. He married, 1754, Mary (c.1733-89), daughter of Maj. Thomas Aston of Drogheda (Co. Louth), but had no issue. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his father in 1741 and lived at Beamore (Co. Meath). On his death his estates passed to his uncle, Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88). His widow lived for some years at Chequers (Bucks). He died 21 November 1759. His widow died in 1789.
Townley (later Balfour), Blayney Townley (1705-88). Youngest son of Blayney Townley (1666-1722) and his wife Lucy, elder daughter of Charles Balfour of Castle Balfour (Co. Fermanagh) and widow of Hugh McGill of Kirkestown (Co. Down), born 26 July 1705 and baptised, probably at Ballymascanlan. Educated at Carrickmacross Grammar School, Trinity College, Dublin (admitted 1723) and Middle Temple (admitted 1727; called to Irish bar. 1731). A Governor of the Dublin Workhouse, 1755-68 and of the Foundling Hospital and Workhouse, 1769-88; a member of the Royal Dublin Society, 1768-88. He took the additional surname Balfour on inheriting the estates of his nephew in 1759. MP in Irish Parliament for Carlingford, Jan-Oct 1760, 1761-76. He married, 30 November 1734, his first cousin Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), and had issue: (1) Hamilton Townley Balfour (1742-46), born 1742; died young, 1746; (2) Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) (q.v.). On his marriage, he settled at Townley Hall which his wife had inherited from her father. He inherited the Castle Balfour and Piedmont estates from his nephew in 1759. He died in 1788. His wife’s date of death is unknown.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1744-71). Only surviving son of Blayney Townley (later Balfour) (1705-88) and his wife Mary, daughter and heiress of Hamilton Townley of Townley Hall (Co. Louth) and widow of William Tenison of Thomastown (Co. Louth), born 1744. Educated at Brasenose College, Oxford (matriculated 1763). High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1771. He married, 20 February 1768, Letitia (1746-1838), daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) (q.v.); (2) Anna Maria Townley Balfour (1770-1820); shared her brother’s interest in architecture and was involved in the design of Townley Hall; married, 6 November 1793, Very Rev. Thomas Vesey Dawson (1768-1811), Dean of Clonmacnoise and rector of Loughgilly (Armagh), 1806-11, third son of Richard Dawson of Ardee, but had no issue; died at Rostrevor (Down), 19 May and was buried at Townley Hall, 23 May 1820; (3) Mary Frances Townley Balfour (1772-1820), born 1772; died unmarried on the day of her sister’s burial, 23 May 1820. He died in the lifetime of his father, 8 December 1771. His widow died in Dublin aged 91, 10 April 1838, and her will was proved the same year.
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1769-1856). Only son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1744-71) and his wife Letitia, daughter of Francis Leigh, MP for Drogheda, born 28 May 1769. Educated at Trinity College, Oxford (matriculated 1786), travelled in Switzerland and Germany, 1788, made a visit to Nice (France), 1791, with his mother and sisters, and then went on alone to Italy (visiting Genoa, Turin, Parma, Modena, Bologna, Florence and Rome, and returning by Venice) in 1791-92. During his travels, he became interested in architecture, and while in Rome he commissioned designs for a new house at Townley Hall from James Playfair, which were eventually superseded. He and his sister Anne seem both to have been competent amateur architects, and his wife came to share their interest. He had important input into the eventual design of the new house at Townley Hall, and he and his wife evidently designed the lodge and gatepiers. JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Louth, 1792. In politics he was strongly opposed to the Union with Great Britain, and secured a seat in the Irish Parliament as MP for Belturbet, Jan-August 1800 in order to vote against it. He married, 17 October 1797, Lady Florence (c.1779-1862), daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, and had issue: (1) Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) (q.v.); (2) Anne Maria Townley Balfour (1800-92), born 5 July 1800; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor (Co. Down); died unmarried aged 92, on 29 August 1892; will proved in Dublin, 14 February 1893 (effects £5,616); (3) Rev. Willoughby William Townley Balfour (1801-88), born 10 October 1801; educated at Harrow and Trinity College, Dublin (matriculated 1819; BA 1823); ordained deacon, 1829 and priest, 1832; vicar of Askeaton (Co. Limerick), 1833-37; rector of Aston Flamville with Burbage (Leics), 1837-78; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 29 June 1888; will proved 29 November 1888 (effects £3,276); (4) Letitia Frances Townley Balfour (1803-85), born 7 November 1803; lived at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor; died unmarried, 30 January 1885; will proved 24 March 1885 (effects £5,144); (5) Francis Leigh Townley Balfour (1805-33), born 22 February and baptised at Clifton (Glos), 27 February 1805; died unmarried of “the Country Fever”, 28 October 1833 and was buried in St John’s Cathedral, Belize City, where he is commemorated by a mural tablet designed by Joseph Theakston and executed in 1844; (6) Florence Henrietta Townley Balfour (1808-81), born 28 July 1808; died unmarried at The Fairy Hill, Rostrevor, 23 July 1881; will proved 25 November 1881 (effects £3,894); (7) Maj. Arthur Lowry (Townley) Balfour (1809-50), born 3 December 1809; an officer in the army (Lt., 1833; Capt., 1839; Maj., 1849); ADC to Sir Charles Metcalfe as Governor General of Canada, 1843; died of smallpox at Govindhur (India), 13 July 1850; administration of his goods was granted to one of his creditors, 5 August 1858 (effects under £450); (8) Elizabeth Sarah Townley Balfour (1813-38), born 21 August and baptised at Kingston (Surrey), 12 September 1813; died unmarried, ‘after a few hours’ illness’ at Ryde (IoW), 19 November 1838; (9) Lowry Vesey Townley Balfour (1819-78), born 30 March 1819; Secretary of the Order of St. Patrick and Gentleman-at-Large to the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland; died unmarried in Dublin, 12 February 1878; will proved in Dublin, 6 June 1878 (estate in Ireland under £7,000 and in England under £1,500). He inherited Townley Hall from his grandfather in 1788, and built a new house there in 1794-98 to the designs of Francis Johnston. He sold the remaining part of the Castle Balfour estate in 1821 to John Creighton (1731-1828), 1st Earl of Erne. He died 22 December 1856. His widow died at Rostrevor (Co. Down), 1 March 1862; her will was proved 10 April 1862 (effects under £8,000).
Townley Balfour, Blayney (1799-1882). Eldest son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1769-1856) and his wife Lady Florence, daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 1st Earl of Enniskillen, born 2 July 1799. Educated at Christ Church, Oxford (matriculated 1818; BA 1822). Lieutenant-Governor of the Bahama Islands, 1833-35. JP for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1841. While on honeymoon in Rome in 1843 he bought, with some other Jacobite relics, a volume of reflections and private devotions in the hand of King James II, printed for the Roxburghe Club in 1925; the original is now in the library of Trinity College, Dublin. He married, 12 January 1843 at Leamington Spa (Warks), Elizabeth Catherine (1820-1904), daughter and heiress of Richard Molesworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), and had issue: (1) Blayney Reynell Townley Balfour (1845-1928) (q.v.); (2) Rt. Rev. Francis Richard Townley Balfour (1846-1924), born at Sorrento (Italy), 21 June 1846; educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (MA 1872) and Cuddesdon Theological College; ordained deacon, 1872 and priest, 1874; undertook missionary work for the Society for the Propogration of the Gospel in Basutoland (now Lesotho) and South Africa from 1875, and became a fluent speaker of Sesotho, into which language he translated the Bible and the Book of Common Prayer; chaplain to Bishop of Bloemfontein, 1875-82; canon of Bloemfontein, 1884-1901; Archdeacon of Bloemfontein, 1901-06 and of Basutoland, 1908-22; he was consecrated an Assistant Bishop in the diocese of Bloemfontein in 1911 and was thus effectively the first Anglican bishop in Basutoland; died at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 3 February 1924 and was buried in the grounds of Mellifont Abbey (Co. Louth); will proved in Dublin (estate £10,499); (3) Catherine Florence Agnes Balfour (1858-1912), born 17 January 1858; died unmarried at Shankill (Co. Dublin), 13 January 1912; will proved in Dublin, 29 February 1912 (estate £11,307); (4) Mary Henrietta Balfour (1860-1937), born 23 October 1860; died in Shankill (Co. Dublin), 24 August 1937; her will was proved in London, 6 December 1937 (estate £13,298). He inherited Townley Hall from his father in 1856, but seems to have spent much of his time in England, usually in London or Bristol. He died 5 September 1882; his will was proved in Dublin, 20 December 1882 (effects in Ireland, £20,723) and in London, 15 January 1883 (effects in England £337). His widow died 9 January 1904; her will was proved in Dublin, 25 February 1904 (estate in Ireland, £9,641) and sealed in London, 5 March 1904 (estate in England, £7,322).
Townley Balfour, Blayney Reynell (1845-1928). Elder son of Blayney Townley Balfour (1799-1882) and his wife Elizabeth Catherine, daughter and heiress of Richard Mackworth Reynell, of Reynells (Co. Westmeath), born in Dublin, 15 April 1845. Educated at Harrow, Trinity College, Cambridge (matriculated 1866; BA 1871; MA 1874) and Middle Temple (admitted 1879). JP and DL for Co. Louth; High Sheriff of Co. Louth, 1885, 1908. “His manner was somewhat reserved and distant, but his disposition was thoroughly kind and charitable” and he was noted for his philanthropic activities, both in Co. Louth and for national and international causes. He was a Member of the Royal Irish Academy from 1890 and a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Ireland, and wrote several works about the antiquities of Drogheda; he was also responsible for instigating the repair of the monument on the site of the Battle of the Boyne. He married, 24 January 1906 at St Patrick’s Cathedral, Dublin, Madeline Elizabeth (1867-1955), elder daughter of John Kells Ingram LLD, Vice-Provost of Trinity College, Dublin, but had no issue. He inherited the 3,173 acre Townley Hall estate from his father in 1882, but in 1908 he became one of the first landowners to sell the majority of the estate to his tenants under the Wyndham Act. He retained only the 856 acre demesne, which was sold to him under the Act, allowing him to claim a £14,000 advance of purchase money and a 12% bonus, and subsequently to make annual repayments; this device – allowed as an incentive to landowners – enabled him to invest in estate improvements. At his death the house and remaining estate passed to his widow, who left it to her cousin, David Crichton, who sold it 1957 to Trinity College, Dublin. He died 21 October 1928; will proved in London, 11 March 1929 (effects in England £39,606), in Dublin, 5 April 1929 (effects in Ireland £39,282), in Belfast, 13 May 1929 (effects in Northern Ireland £890) and confirmed in Scotland, 31 May 1929 (effects in Scotland £1,278). His widow died 25 March 1955; her will was proved in Dublin, 3 August 1955 (estate £52,246).
Sources
Burke’s Landed Gentry of Ireland, 1912, pp. 24-25; Anon., ‘Two Residences of the Townley Family in Co. Louth’, Journal of the County Louth Archaeological Society, 1924, pp. 267-269; A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North-West Ulster, 1979, p. 359; M. Bence-Jones, A guide to Irish country houses, 2nd edn., 1990, pp. 275-76; C. Casey & A. Rowan, The buildings of Ireland: North Leinster, 1993, pp. 503-08; J. Ingamells, A dictionary of British and Irish travellers in Italy, 1701-1800, 1999, p. 44; E.M. Johnston-Liik, The History of the Irish Parliament, 1692-1800, vol. 3, pp. 130-31, vol. 6, pp. 425-28.
Location of archives
Balfour family of Balfour Castle (Fermanagh): deeds, estate and legal papers, 17th-19th cents. [Public Record Office of Northern Ireland, D1939] Balfour family of Townley Hall (Louth): deeds, estate and family papers, 17th-20th cents. [National Library of Ireland, D971, D1902, D2624; T3763; MS3771]
Coat of arms
Townley Balfour of Townley Hall: Quarterly, 1st and 4th, argent, on a chevron sable, an otter’s head erased, of the first; 2nd and 3rd, argent, a fesse sable, in chief three mullets of the second.
Notes about missing information and help wanted with this entry
If anyone can provide an image of Piedmont Hall (Co. Louth) when it was intact or substantially so, I would be very pleased to see it. I would also welcome any early photographs of Townley Hall, especially views of the interior showing it as it was furnished before it was sold in 1957.
If anyone can provide additional genealogical or biographical details about the people mentioned above, or further portraits or photographs of members of the family, I should be very pleased to incorporate them.
Revision and acknowledgements
This post was first published 24 October 2018.
Townley Hall, perhaps the premier country house achievement of Francis Johnston , is a neoclassical wonder near Drogheda in county Louth. It was completed for Blayney Townley Balfour in 1799, the work having taken about 5 years. It’s 2 storey over basement ( although there is also an attic floor with windows hidden behind the tall cornice and from the rear looks 4 storey with the basement exposed ) ,and has 3 seven bay sides each 90 feet in length .The front also has a single storey portico with twined fluted columns. There is a single storey wing in the rear sunken yard which was for kitchen use .
The external droved ashlar is of the highest standard, the limestone sourced locally, possibly Sheepgrange.
It’s austere plainness, with the exception of string course and cornice , it’s pure scale, build quality and positioning amalgamate to create a building of beauty and for want of a better description,strength .
The pond at the front of the house is a relatively speaking recent addition, although there was a pond about 500 yards to the north of the house at one time pre 20th century .
While Francis Johnston was the principal architect here, it is also known that Blayney Townley Balfour( having completed a grand tour ) ,along with his sister and in laws , greatly contributed to its design and build .
Balfour and his wife ,Lady Florence Cole from Florence Court in Fermanagh ,designed the Boyne gate lodge ( it was one of 3) themselves circa 1819.
Balfour had discussed details at one stage with a Scottish architect James Playfair, but in the end went with Johnston . It was I believe perhaps Johnstons first major solo commission .
The central rotunda , glass dome and staircase are especially magnificent . The seemingly magically floating ascent to the stars adorned with niches, apses ,recesses
and decorative plasterwork leave one agog and in awe. My photos and description do it no justice. The Pantheon in Rome springs to mind perhaps.
The daring way in which the steps of the stairs in essence support one after another with only stability support from the wall has to be applauded not only for their beauty, but also perhaps their bravery.
The internal doors, made from Cuban mahogany bear no hinges, but use steel pivots top and bottom, window shutters with movements that mesmerise , a gothic shaft in the lower hall( plumbed) to support the portland stone floor above are just a few examples showing the difference between this house and many others as regards details . I am also informed the house was one of the first in Ireland to have inside toilet facilities.
Blayney Townley Balfour had inherited the estate from his grandfather ( same name).The old house had stood a short distance north of
the new house. The family had large land holdings in Louth and Meath and made a fortune from a mill in Slane. Later , in the 1870s they owned over 3,000 acres in Louth and almost 1,500 in Meath.
The Townley family origins were at Townley Hall in Lancashire, the Balfours were from Burleigh in Scotland.
The Townley Balfour family motto was
Omne solum forti patria ( roughly translates to -every land is home for the brave man )
Our “first ” Blayney Townley had added Balfour to his name after inheriting a large amount from his nephew ( I think) William Balfour . He married his cousin Mary who had inherited the old Townley hall from her father Hamilton Townley . It was this man , then Blayney Townley Balfour that left the estate to his grandson , the builder of the house we see today . That grandson had been an MP ( for Belturbet) , a magistrate in Louth and Meath , High Sheriff in 1792 and DL in his old age 1852.
His son , another Blayney Townley Balfour inherited , having been Governor of the Bahamas 1833-35. It was subsequently his son who was then the last to live at a Townley Hall. He was Blayney Reynold Townley Balfour . In the 1901 census he and his wife Madeline ( 22 years his junior )were in residence with 8 servants . It reported there were 42 rooms in use.
When the widowed Mrs Townley Balfour died in 1954 , she left the place to a family relative , David Crichton ( possibly connected to the Crichton family at Crom Castle, but that is speculative on my part ).He sold the house and it’s by then 850 acres to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural college . Subsequently they sold off most of the land to the land commission and forestry Dept. The house and about 60 acres were bought by Frank Mitchell , a Trinity lecturer ,in the late 1960s. He sold it to the School of Philosophy and Economic Science who use and maintain it nowadays . The house is of course a private property and I am grateful for the permission to visit and photograph.
An immaculate concept, a gorgeous late Georgian flowering. Townley Hall deep in the Boyne Valley came about in the closing years of the 18th century. Its architect Francis Johnston designed Rokeby Hall, 17 kilometres north of Townley Hall, a decade earlier in 1786. The former is a smaller version of the latter. Both are of a spare patrician architecture so appealing to the modern eye. Plain planes. Townley is an achingly svelte seven bay by seven bay 27.5 metre square block.
The architect conceals and reveals scale and massing as the viewer moves round the outside. This is a four storey house masquerading on three sides as a two storey building. Attic dormers lurk behind a solid parapet in a similar arrangement to the contemporaneous Castle Coole, County Fermanagh, except there the dormers peep through balustraded gaps in the parapet. Townley is Castle Coole taken to next level Grecian severity in a case of keeping up with the Lowry-Corrys. Francis’ brother Richard was the original architect for Castle Coole: he was replaced by the celebrity architect James Wyatt. There is another Fermanagh link: the client Blayney Townley Balfour married Lady Florence Cole in 1794. She was from Florence Court, a neighbouring estate of James Wyatt’s masterpiece.
Townley Hall is an essay in structural rationalism, a formal stone box grounded by rolling countryside. Recent semiformal planting softens the grey to green juxtaposition. Unencumbered by unnecessary architectural frippery, Francis employs taut lines. He let’s go – just a little – with the kitchen wing. A collection of curves carefully enriches the wing’s fenestration: recessed arches, roundheaded windows, segmental arched tripartite mezzanine windows, a bow window. It’s not just an august purity auguring minimalism that defines Townley. Workmanship and materiality are also top notch. The facing ashlar was quarried from nearby Sheephouse. It has lower absorbency than most limestone. Mortar is barely visible between the masonry. Metal rods reinforce the slimmest of glazing bars. A mid storey string cornice and Greek Doric eaves cornice relieve the expanse of wall.
A tetrastyle Doric portico leads into the entrance hall which has twin Doric chimneypieces – more restrained versions that those in Castle Coole. That’s a theme developing in this article. Rectangular plasterwork wall panels resemble vast empty picture frames. A coffered ceiling adds to the room’s crisp angularity. Straight ahead – silent drum roll – is the rotunda, a nine metre diameter glass domed cylinder forming the core of the house. A swagger of genius. A swoop of plasterwork swags and skulls. Irish design at its most suave. All the plasterwork whether naturalistic or geometric is of shallow relief. There are two coats of paint on the rotunda walls: the current 1920s creamy beige over the original stone grey. The ribbed dome casts a spidery web of shadows which leisurely climbs the staircase as the afternoon progresses.
An interlinking ceiling rose pattern in the drawing room is similar to the overhead plasterwork of the dining room in Castle Coole. Like all the main rooms around the rotunda it is 7.3 metres deep. This layout allows all the main rooms to have natural light while the rotunda is top lit. Rokeby Hall is similarly laid out and equally bright. It is an efficient arrangement removing the need for corridors. Andrea Palladio’s 1560s Villa Rotundaoutside Vicenza is an obvious source of inspiration although the dome of Townley is hidden behind the attic floor rather than being on full display. Surprisingly Francis’ drawings illustrate the final rationality of layout and simplicity of design was achieved through an evolutionary process. For example, the more elaborate Ionic order (which James Wyatt used for the portico of Castle Coole) was replaced with the plainer Greek Doric for the portico. Francis was clearly a master of the Golden Ratio.
A set of early 1900s photographs (courtesy of the Irish Architectural Archive: reproduced here for non commercial educational purposes) includes views of the interior. Furnishings were suitably classical and restrained. Chinese wallpaper in the south facing drawing room is a rare flush of extravagance. The boudoir and dressing room over the drawing room overlook the parkland. They are one of five family suites clustered around the first floor rotunda landing. On the floor above, the view from the servants’ dormitories is the backside of the parapet below a sliver of sky. The only unobstructed attic windows are in the west facing barrack room which looks down into the courtyard: guards needed to be on watch.
In 1957 the family sold the house and 350 hectare estate to Trinity College Dublin for use as an agricultural school. Since 1977, Townley and its immediate 60 hectares has been a residential study centre owned by the School of Philosophy and Economic Science. A single level extension (visible as one storey on the north front) was recently completed over the kitchen wing plus a double height access link to the original house. The two main conservation schools of thought are to either design an extension that blends in with the host building or one that contrasts with it. The current Irish notion strongly favours the latter. Oh the architectural profession’s fear of that ultimate sin: pastiche! That’s despite every other modern glass building being derived from Philip Johnson’s Glass House in Connecticut and its 70 year old ilk. RKD Architects of Newmarket Dublin secured planning permission for an extension that consisted of similar massing to that executed except the courtyard facing elevation was a dormered mansard. RKD proposed Georgian style sash windows throughout.
Treasa Langford of Dúchas Heritage Service commented on the application, “The finishing of the north wall is not specified; however, the construction is specified as exposed uncoursed rubblestone, which would appear to be inappropriate on a cut stone house such as Townley Hall. We would recommend a ruled and lined nap lime plaster finish without use of cement.” Her opinion is based on the view of sympathetically blending old and new. It could be counterargued that rubblestone would be suitably subservient to the cut stone of the grand main block, emphasising the ancillary nature of the wing.
A decade later, MVK Architects of Fitzwilliam Square Dublin’s design also secured planning permission and this time it was built out. Their approach is very different. The design concept is to add an identifiably contemporary layer to this historic property. Subordination and deference are common themes of both practices’ thinking. MVK’s has neither a mansard nor Georgian style glazing bars but the window openings are classically positioned and proportioned.
Michael Kavanagh of MVK Architects relates, “The choice of material was based on aesthetic as well as practical considerations. Natural zinc has a light grey colour – from historic photographs it appears the slate on the original roof had a similar light grey colour. The material is not intended to match the limestone colour but rather be complementary to it. Zinc is natural, hardwearing, long lasting and difficult to puncture. These characteristics make it ideal for long term weatherproofed cladding. It is stiffer than lead or copper and consequently allows for the crispness of detailing which is intended throughout.” This metal envelope is fixed on plywood decking across battens to form a ventilation zone. The zinc is fitted in strips of varying widths using a staggered but repeating rhythm which reflects the use of differently sized limestone blocks on the main house exterior.
The best example in Ireland of a Modernist addition to a neoclassical building is of course the Ulster MuseumBelfast extension. Edinburgh architect James Cumming Wynnes won the 1913 competition for the original museum. The exterior displays fairly ornate Beaux Arts decoration. In 1964, London architect Francis Pym won a competition to extend the museum. His highly inventive design is at once contextual and disruptive. He draws out the neoclassical detailing such as cornices and string courses which then collide with abstract cubic concrete blocks expressing the layout of the galleries inside. Francis’ dramatic work is unsurpassed in its genre. Surprisingly, he worked in church conservation and his only other recorded built form is a gazebo somewhere in England.
This is an article of superlatives. The O’Connell Wing of Abbey Leix in County Laois is a study in how to do it right. Architect John O’Connell’s masterful 1990s reimagining of an unfinished 1860s wing by Thomas Henry Wyatt (an Anglo Irish distant next generation relation of James) is a lesson in improving what’s there already. Client Sir David Davies explains, “This extension was never built as planned but the remains of the Wyatt scheme – a low unadorned wall to the right of the main house was a disfiguring distraction, an issue O’Connell resolved by puncturing the walls with windows and adding architectural ornament.” John O’Connell was also responsible for the late 20th century restoration of Castle Coole. This is an article of connections.
Sympathetic contextual additions; visibly contemporary extensions; dramatic architectural interventions; subtly remodelled wings – they all have their place and supporters. English Poet Laureate and architectural historian Sir John Betjeman once stated, “I have seen many Irish houses, but I know none at once so dignified, so restrained and so original as Townley Hall in County Louth.” More than 230 years after it was finished, such is the strength of Francis Johnson’s design, capturing the spirit of a future age, it still possesses dignity, restraint and originality.
Designed by Francis Johnston for Blaney Balfour in 1794, Townley Hall, Co. Louth, is considered one of his finest works. The home was passed down through the Balfour family over the centuries and finally was purchased by Trinity College, Dublin in 1956. The house is set on a prominent site in parklands which, in 1827, were called by Gardener’s Magazine, “one of the most magnificent demesnes in the kingdom.” In 2003 the owners applied to the Irish Georgian Society for funding to repair the faulty rotunda flashings and the damage caused by water ingress. The Society supplied over €6,435 for these projects.
Brief description of project: The rotunda roof flashings had caused significant damage to the structural ring beam at wall plate level. Not only was the structural integrity of the splendid dome compromised, but original, decorative plaster detailing was affected as well. Thanks in part to the Society’s donations, it was possible to erect a temporary cover which enabled the repair of the roof structure using best practice techniques.
Architectural description: Townley Hall is a two-storey, square building of seven bays. The west elevation has a kitchen which features deep-set windows and Grecian Doric columns. The exterior of the house was completed in a restrained manner with the roof concealed behind a parapet and few decorative effects but for a string course and cornice and a Doric single storey portico to the front. However, the interior is simply but masterfully executed, the main attraction being the central, coffered rotunda and spiral, cantilever staircase. Around the upper level of the rotunda are apses, niches, and arched recesses.
Grants Awarded:
2003: €6,435 from IGS toward faulty rotunda flashing and water damage.
Detached seven-bay two-storey over basement with attic country house, built c. 1800. Tetrastyle Greek Doric portico to east, single-storey three-bay service wing to west. Hipped slate roofs, rolled lead ridge and hips, glass dome to rotunda with replacement copper roof around dome, circular cast-iron downpipes. Tooled limestone ashlar walling, limestone plinth and string courses, denticulated cornice to wall tops east, south and north elevations. Square-headed window openings, limestone sills, painted six-over-six timber sliding sash windows; wrought-iron window guards to basement; three-over-three sliding sash windows to attic west elevation. Greek Doric portico to east, fluted columns, tooled limestone steps and platform, paired engaged fluted columns flanking square-headed door opening, timber five-panel double doors; square-headed door opening to north, painted timber panelled double doors with glass upper panels, painted timber mullioned overlight, concrete bridge to door over basement; round-headed door opening to west, dressed limestone block-and-start surround, painted timber door with glass panels; blocked door openings with Greek Doric columns to west wing. Interior with Portland limestone geometrical-paving to rotunda, stone cantilever staircase, glass dome, stucco centre pieces and cornices, timber panelled shutter boxes and Cuban mahogany doors. Set in own grounds, round pond to east, lawns sloping away to south, outbuildings to north-west.
Appraisal
Designed by Francis Johnston, this monumental Greek Revival house is widely regarded as his masterpiece. Said to have been influenced by the then owner’s, Blayney Townley Balfour, visits to Europe, it displays high-quality stone masonry, particularly to its portico whose Greek Doric entablature is reflected in the denticulated cornice of the house. Situated on an elevated site it is surrounded by sloping lawns and a complex of outhouses to the north-west. The distinguishing feature of Townley Hall is the airy rotunda with its particularly pleasing cantilevered staircase, but more subtle features such as the mahogany doors are also expertly crafted.
643. Townley Hall, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
65no decorative relief anywhere in fact, except a rather mean frame (not executed)
with small engaged Ionic columns around the main door. On the west facade
the cornice is interrupted and the attic windows become visible, while the base-
ment windows too are revealed and look out onto a sunken kitchen yard. The
one-storey kitchen wing, now derelict, extends from the north end of the west
facade into this yard (Plate 2).
The plan (Plate 3) is arranged around a central top-lit domed rotunda which
rises through two storeys from the ground floor and which contains the main
stairs. Rectangular rooms are distributed around this central space. In the attic
storey, rooms are lit by dormer windows behind the cornice, and are entered
from a corridor lit by windows overlooking the dome. Describing the house in
his letter to Brewer in 1820, Johnston referred with characteristic modesty to the
remarkable rotunda—it is “open to and lighted from the top (and) has a good
effect” (Plate 4).
The source for the “singular and impressive austerity”7 of the exterior is to be
found in James Wyatt. In an early drawing for the entrance elevation for
Townley there are specific allusions to Wyatt in the wide tripartite windows of
the end bays. The development towards regularity in the later drawings, the
increased austerity of the facades and the use of Greek Doric columns8 suggest
further that Johnston was following a lead given by Wyatt in his Irish buildings.
That Wyatt’s work should have been influential for an Irish architect of
ability, who was still unknown, and who had received an important country
house commission, was to be expected. Wyatt was the great man who had been
called in from abroad for the prestigious work at Slane and Castle Coole. There
were, however, other reasons why Johnston should have looked to Wyatt, as
he was to do later in his Castle style phase. Johnston had been a protege of
Primate Robinson who had employed Wyatt for the building of Canterbury
Quad in Christ Church, Oxford. Also, since Richard Johnston, a brother of
Francis, had produced designs for Castle Coole in 1789, and with Thomas
Cooley had actually built Newtownmountkennedy House” on Wyatt’s plans,
Francis Johnston must have been intimately familiar with, and much influenced
by, the Attic simplicity of Castle Coole and Newtownmountkennedy House.
The precise source for the plan of Townley Hall, dominated by the central
rotunda, is more difficult to pin down. An obvious parallel can be drawn be-
tween this plan and that of Palladio’s Villa Rotunda without its porticoes, where
the central space has a diameter of thirty Vicentine feet. The diameter of the
Townley stair-well is also thirty feet. Gibbs in his Book of Architecture engraved
the plan of a country house10 which develops this theme by placing a double
branched curving staircase in a centrally placed top-lit space; also, as is clear
7) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 23rd and 30th July, 1948.
8) The portico as built is Greek Doric. It is not clear from the Dublin drawings at what date
the Ionic doorcase was replaced by the Greek Doric portico, but Johnston’s interest in
the primitive orders in the mid 1790’s suggests a date not much later than 1794.
y> John Cornforth on Newtownmountkennedy House, Country Life, October 28th and
November 11th, 1965.
10) J. Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, 1728, Plate 54.
664. Townley Hall, staircase.in St. George’s Church in Dublin, and in the General Post Office, Johnston knew
Gibbs’ book well, and used it as a source of inspiration. With these suggested
points of departure must be mentioned the Irish habit of having spacious,
centrally placed and top-lit bedroom halls.11 Such a bedroom-hall, rising through
two storeys, is found at Castle Coole, where the actual plan owes more to
Richard Johnston than does the elevation. Circular bedroom halls are also found
in both upper floors of Rokeby Hall.
From some such amalgam of influence, prototype and local practice Johnston
evolved this Townley rotunda, this isolated grand gesture in a plan which is
otherwise as rectangular and austere as the elevations.12 It was typical of Johnston
to concentrate in the staircase the single moment of spatial drama in a house.
The staircase seems to have appealed to his interest in support and construc-
tion, as well as interesting him for its dramatic potential as the focal point of a
plan—these two aspects are exploited at Glenmore and Corbalton Hall as well
as at Townley (Plate 21).
In Townley Hall, the severe restraint of the exterior has been brought inside.
The single suggestion of interior columnar interest—a screen of two columns at
each end of the Library—was abandoned. There is little variation in room shape,
no spatial variety as one moves from one room to the next. Where the walls are
modelled, the emphasis lies on gentle, low relief and shallow recesses, rather than
on a rich use of deep niches.13 Apart from the drama of the rotunda there is a
restrained and antirhetorical approach to the planning. Just a year before the
first designs were made for Townley Hall, in 1793, Richard Morrison had pub-
lished his Useful and Ornamental Designs in Architecture. Here Morrison, who
later became a serious contender for some of the more important commissions
eventually given to Johnston,14 had given plans of houses of various pretensions
and scale. The grander houses had internal screens of columns, lobbies ending
in semi-circular apses, circular rooms straight from Gandon’s work on the
Parliament House, with deep niches scooped out from the intervals between
recessed columns. These designs represent the consciousness, on the part of a
contemporary Irish architect, of the Adamesque tradition so firmly rejected by
Johnston.
In some of the details of the decoration, too, there is an economy consistent
with the austerity of elevation and plan. The entrance hall (Plate 5), with its
heavy Greek fret, its Greek Doric chimney piece and the square coffering of the
11) Maurice Craig, Country Life, May 28th 1964 on Bellamont Forest, Co. Cavan.
12) Of this staircase, Hussey {op. cit.) wrote “I would dare to say there is nothing lovelier than
this rotunda in the Georgian architecture of the British Isles.” In comparing this rotunda
with Wyatt’s circular staircase in Devonshire House of 1811, it is tempting to suggest that
the Wyatt-Johnston relationship may have been, to some degree, mutually beneficial.
13) The very shallow recesses in the hall are also a feature of the hall in Garvey House. There
is a plan of Garvey House by Johnston in the I.A.R.A. Coll. PF2.
14) The Knight of Glin has drawn my attention to an interesting comment made in 1822 by
Morrison in a letter to Sir Charles Coote of Ballyfin: ” I beg your permission to observe
that my knowledge of this country and of the buildings executed in it, enables me to know
that with the exception of Mr. Johnston, my son and myself, there is not any architect in it,
in whose hands you could place your business with a prospect of such a result as you
would desire.”
685. Townley Hall, entrance hall.
696. Ballymakenny Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Librj.
707. Kells Church, design for west front by Thomas Cooley (Nat. Libr.).
718. Rokeby Hall, entrance elevation.
ceiling, sets a serious tone which is echoed in the Library.15 The decoration of
the rotunda is a little richer, but the traditions of Adam, and of the currently
fashionable Michael Stapleton in Dublin, were rejected. The brittle elegance with
which Johnston had toyed in the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh has vanished,
never again to reappear in his work. The different decorative strains of this
rotunda are used together in an experimental but unsynthesized way. The ox-
head frieze, the criss-cross vaulting, the naturalism of the oak-leaf and acorn
moulding, the gauche draperies and lion heads, the lunettes with their high
relief,16 the wiry simplicity of the running vine band threaded through a simple
fret with acorns underneath—these are all exercises in different themes, com-
bined, but not fused into a very satisfactory whole.17 In this rotunda Johnston
15) The drawing-room ceiling in Townley Hall is remarkably similar to the dining room
ceiling in Castle Coole where economy had dictated a more restrained style than in the
Saloon. (Compare illustrations in Country Life, July 30 1948, Plate 4; and December 26
1936, Plate 8.)
16) Professor Mitchell, the present owner of the house, has pointed out to me that these
lunettes have been enlarged and were probably not made for their present position. They
are not unique in Johnston’s work. They resemble the plaques which decorate the exterior
of his own house in Eccles Street.
17) Many of these motifs appear together in the vault of William Chambers” Strand vestibule
of Somerset House.
729. Lucan House, entrance elevation.
was experimenting with these themes. Some, like the naturalistic oak motifs,
were to become almost inevitable in his interiors; others, like the ox-head frieze,
were never used again.
More important than the experiment with individual motifs was the way in
which he tried to solve the problem of applying ornament to large areas with a
controlled economy, which would give to the most opulent scheme the unosten-
tatious effect consistent with his own taste and personality. Rokeby Hall is
decorated very sparingly; so too is the Armagh Observatory. The only important
interior decorative scheme on which Johnston had worked before Townley Hall
was therefore that of the Primate’s Chapel in Armagh. In the Chapel and in
Townley Hall we see the experiments that within ten years of Townley Hall were
to develop into the maturity and assurance of St. George’s and the Bank (see
Plates 39, 40).
Townley Hall is a key work in Johnston’s career, and it may be used as an
illustration of many characteristics of his style, as seen not only in his classical
country houses but in some of his ecclesiastical and public buildings as well. The
austerity of the Townley elevations was first enunciated at Rokeby Hall. In 1820
in his letter to Brewer, Johnston says that from 1785 to 1794 he was employed
by Primate Robinson in “erecting” a country house and two churches, one at
7310. Rokeby Hall, ground floor plan (Nat. Libr.).
Ballymakenny and the other at Clonmore. It is clear from the context that the
house is Rokeby Hall, and this letter has encouraged the belief that Johnston
alone was responsible for the Hall and the two churches.18
The church at Clonmore is ruined, and can yield no evidence of authorship.
The church at Ballymakenny is more interesting. In the Murray Collection in
the National Library in Dublin, there are four drawings—a plan, a section and
two elevations—for Ballymakenny church as it was built,1″ but without date or
signature (Plate 6). The plan is headed “Plan of Ballymakenny Church.” They
18) John Betjeman, however, in The Pavilion (London, 1946, ed. M. Evans) described Bally-
makenny church as by Johnston but “probably from Coolcy’s designs.”
19) These drawings arc in the I.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2.
7410.—” GROUND-FLOOR PLAN FOR MR. VESEY’S HOUSE
AT LUCAN,” BY MICHAEL STAPLETON
The following notes in Stapledon’s writing have been trans-
cribed from a fainter duplicate :
The dotted lines in plan show the manner of the division of Bed-
chamber story.
The wall that forms the Oval room in parlour story is carried up no
higher than the first story, which leaves an open lobby from great stairs to
the wall at ir the same width as stairs—the light at the end is not very
strong as it is too great a distance from the Venetian window of stairs—a
sky-light would be a vast improvement.
I I. Lucan House, ground floor plan. Country Life.
are catalogued as drawings by Johnston.2″ In the same collection, however
(portfolio 17), there are photographs of drawings for a church at Kells, signed
by Cooley and dated 1778 (Plate 7). Judging from these photographs the drawing
style of the two sets of drawings is the same. Further, there is an almost exact
correspondence between the designs of the two steeples. It seems clear, therefore,
that the drawings for Ballymakenny are by Cooley. Johnston’s reference in 1820
to his share in the work for this church does less than justice to his master,
according to whose designs he completed Ballymakenny Church.
One consequence of the above is that one must question Johnston’s share in
the design of Rokeby Hall, which has always been attributed to him. Since it
would be his first country house, elements in Rokeby which are untypical in his
later work, for instance the engaged order on the facade, must be treated with
caution. The existence in the National Library in Dublin, however, of plans
20) Betjeman, op. cil., wrote of this drawing (Plate 6) “The drawing and design are almost
indistinguishable from the work of Thomas Cooley.”
7512. Farnham House (Lawr. Coll.).
previously unrecognized as plans for Rokeby and which are not by Johnston,21
indicate that architects other than Johnston were involved in the design.
The most interesting of these plans (none of which is signed, or dated and
none of which is in Johnston’s drawing style) is a set of plans unquestionably by
the same hand as a ground plan of Lucan House, Co. Dublin, built between
1773 and 1781 for Agmondisham Vesey.22 This plan is of unknown authorship,
but it has been suggested23 that itwas drawn by Michael Stapleton. The common
authorship of these plans suggests a comparison of the elevations of the two
houses.
The front elevations (Plates 8,9) share such features as a 2-3-2 window rhythm,
unmoulded openings in the first floor with a common sill threaded behind the
order, and an Ionic order, supporting a pediment, rising in the slightly projecting
centre block over the ground floor.
There are important differences, but they are all consistent differences between
the richly modelled and the flat. The high central block of Lucan, with its tall
engaged columns, was lowered at Rokeby; the columns became pilasters,
ground floor rustication was lowered to the basement, and the deep recesses of
the central ground floor were flattened out. Similar differences exist between the
plans (Plates 10, 11)—the niches of the hall at Lucan, otherwise similar to the
hall at Rokeby, were filled in; the oval projection on the rear elevation of Lucan
was also flattened out.
21) These drawings are in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 20.
22) Christopher Hussey, Country Life, 31st January 1947; John Harris, Quarterly Bulletin of
the Irish Georgian Society, July-September 1965.
23) Catalogue of the l.A.D. Exhibition, 1965, No. 44.
7613. Cornmarket, Drogheda.
Now if an architect other than Johnston was responsible for the original
designs of Rokeby Hall, that architect would be Thomas Cooley, the architect
of Primate Robinson, for whom the house was built. This raises a slight prob-
lem, since among the multiplicity of architects whose names are connected with
Lucan House—Chambers, Stapleton, Stevens, Wyatt and Agmondisham Vesey
himself—the name of Cooley does not appear. At this point it is necessary to
mention Newtownmountkennedy House.24 Briefly, its plan is closely connected
with that of Lucan House; it was designed by James Wyatt in 1772; and it was
built by Cooley and Richard Johnston, a brother of Francis, around 1782.
Therefore it may be suggested that Rokeby Hall was far from being an original
idea of Johnston’s, and that original plans were made by Cooley (and possibly
by others).25 The plans of the ground floor and first floor are adaptations from
Wyatt’s plans for Newtownmountkennedy and from the related plan of Lucan
House. Johnston did “erect” Rokeby, as he said, but few details of the plan
can be his. The scheme for the entrance elevation, too, .he probably inherited,
but treated it with a feeling which was reaching towards the simplification
of Townley Hall. The entrance elevation of Rokeby Hall is, in fact, a neat
24) John Cornforth, Country Life, October 28th and November 11th, 1965.
25) A collection of drawings by Cooley which may throw light on this question has just
recently come to light. The drawings are in Caledon Castle, Co. Tyrone.
7714. Headfort House, suggested alterations for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
illustration of what an architect, tied to the basic scheme of Lucan House
and developing towards Townley Hall, might be expected to produce.26
The severity of exterior elevation which, inspired by Wyatt, began to emerge
at Rokeby and which received its definitive statement at Townley, is character-
istic of Johnston’s classical domestic work. The additions to Farnham House27
are varied in the ground floor (Plate 12) with semi-circular headed windows like
in the kitchen wing at Townley. The severity is relieved sometimes by tripartite
windows, as at Corbalton Hall,28 and sometimes by a doorway with a small
columnar frame as at Clown.2″ On the whole, however, these smaller classical
houses present a rather dull picture, and some, without the happy proportions
of Rokeby and Townley, anticipate Johnston’s later “penitentiary” style. Often
close at hand in his work is the “hardness” described by Craig/10 The dividing
line between Attic simplicity and this hardness was not always under control,
even in Charleville Forest, the most picturesque composition of this least pictur-
esque of architects. There, on the facades, between the corner towers, the relent-
less symmetry of Johnston establishes its claim over the picturesque demands of
his patron. The regular rectangular windows glare out from a facade which
‘shares the bleakness of Johnston’s classical houses, of his penitentiaries and even
of his General Post Office (Plate 24).
In the work of such a man we would expect to find, around the turn of the
century, a ready adoption of the appropriately austere forms of the Greek
Revival. And so it was, but to a limited degree. It is difficult to date accurately
26) Dr. Alastair Rowan has suggested to me that a consideration of the authorship of Rokeby
Hall might include a consideration of Ihe house and gate lodge of Annesbrooke, Duleek,
where several Johnston-like details can be seen.
27) Co. Cavan. Drawings for these additions, which were largely demolished in 1963, are in
the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802.
28) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Elias Corbally. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801-1807.
29) Co. Meath. Additions to an older house, built for Waller Dowdall. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
30) Maurice Craig, Dublin 1660-1860, p. 281.
78i. Kildare, suggested east elevation by Francis Johnston
the Greek Doric portico of Townley Hall—it appears in none of the dated
elevations31 in Dublin. It is unlikely to be much later than 1794, however, be-
cause during the years that Johnston was working at Townley, that is in the later
1790’s, he began to develop an interest in primitive orders and their suitability
to his evolving style of domestic architecture. In the hall in Slane Castle,:!2 for
instance, the columns are baseless, but have Tuscan capitals with an enriched
necking band. The real interest in the Slane hall is in the chimney pieces, where
baseless Greek Doric columns support an entablature where the frieze zone is
omitted, but with the guttae of the missing triglyphs remaining in the architrave.33
The Townley Hall work includes, besides the portico, Greek Doric columns in
the hall chimney piece, and columns of a Primitivist order on the kitchen wing
(Plate 2). After Townley Hall comes the set of porticoes designed for Farnham
House, Ballycurry House,34 and the Adjutant General’s Office.30 These porticoes
are all one-storey high with Doric columns, sometimes fluted, sometimes not. At
Corbalton Hall the portico is also one-storey high, but unusual in Johnston’s
domestic work36 in being Ionic. The columns are baseless. So we see, that despite
his interest in the Greek Revival, as witnessed in the precocious use of a Greek
31) Only one drawing in the I.A.R.A. Coll. shows Townley Hall with this Greek Doric
portico. It is an undated and unsigned drawing in PF 2.
32) Johnston’s work on Slane Castle was contemporary with his work on Townley Hall.
33) This order corresponds, detail for detail, with the order of the loggia surrounding three
sides of the Corn market in Drogheda (Plate 13) (behind the Market House, now the Court
House), where, however, the columns are unfluted. This market complex was built by
Johnston, and the conjectural date suggested by Betjeman (in The Pavilion), is 1788. The
building certainly looks later, and because of the similarity with the Slane chimneypieces,
a more likely date would be in the mid ’90’s. On this order. Dr. Maurice Craig has sug-
gested to me that it resembles a bit “the primitive style of Gandon as seen at Carriglass
and in some Gandon drawings in the Lowther Castle collection now in Carlisle.”
34) In Co. Wicklow. Rebuilding of an old house, for Charles Tottenham. Drawings in I.A.R.A.
Coll., Nat. Libr., PF 5, signed and dated 1805-1806.
35) In the grounds of the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. Though a military structure, it is built
entirely in the style of a modest private house. It dates from c. 1805.
36) We can exclude the two-storey high Ionic portico added by Johnston to the Vice Regal
Lodge in Dublin, a building by its nature more public than private.
7915a. Killeen Castle, unexecuted plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.)
Doric portico at Townley Hall around 1794, and his later preoccupation with
the forms of the Greek Doric capital in his public work (see below), his adoption
of the forms of the Revival was quiet, unostentatious, and never monumental.
The Revival, of which he was an early exponent, became fully established during
his life, but the more established it became, the less Johnston used it in a con-
ventional way, and the more it became for him a style of allusion.
In another sphere of domestic building this quiet and scholarly interest in the
primitive orders can be seen at work. In 1799, when he first drew up plans for
alterations to the house of St. Catherine’s in Leixlip, Co. Kildare,37 he also made
a drawing38 for a dairy, with columns in a rustic order, covered in bark. The
following directions accompany the drawing:
“
. . . the plinths on which they (i.e. the columns) stand to be of stone, and
the Caps of Wood. The Entablature to be finished (in appearance) from the
hatchet, and coloured to match the bark of the pillars.”
Later, in 1802, he made a “sketch for dividing and finishing the Wood Cottage
at St. Catherine’s.”311 Here his primitivismwent a stage further—the roof was to
37) Described in the catalogue of the Murray Collection as “now demolished (built) for Mr.
Latouche.” The house still stands. As was pointed out by Dr. Alistair Rowan in his thesis
on the castle style (in the University Library, Cambridge) Johnston’s gothicmng altera-
tions were not built.
38) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder No. 5.
39) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, St. Catherine’s folder, No. 10.
8016. Killeen Castle, design for entrance elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
be supported by tree trunks without plinths or capitals, across which lay a simple
wooden board acting as architrave. Beyond this, primitivism could not go.40
As was appropriate for a disciple of Wyatt, Francis Johnston built in the
Castle Style. His activity in this style was quite intense in the first five years of
the nineteenth century, and falls quite naturally into three main groups. Firstly
there are commissions, where his brief was to gothicize and castellate an existing
classical house without making major structural additions. Secondly there were
commissions for considerable alterations and additions to classical houses—and
sometimes to genuine mediaeval structures. Finally there was the single com-
mission for Charleville Forest, a new scheme to be built from the ground up.
Johnston received only one such commission41 but its influence on later castle
style building in Ireland was greater than that of any other of his works in
this style.
In the first category there are only two projects—St. Catherine’s and Headfort
House at Kells, Co. Meath. Neither project was executed. At Headfort (Plate 14),
40) At least one later use of the rustic order by Johnston is known. In the I.A.D. exhibition
1965, the catalogue illustrated a plan and elevation for a seat at the Spa Well, Phoenix
Park—a tetrastyle temple in a rustic order. The drawing, in the possession of Mrs.
Desmond Forde, is signed and dated 1810.
41) It is not quite correct, as has been done elsewhere, to regard Glenmore, Co. Wicklow, as a
fresh commission. Drawings in the l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 make specific reference to the
original fabric which was to be included in the new, much larger, scheme.
8118. Markrcc Castle, view of south-east elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
for which drawings dated 1802 are in the National Library,42 Johnston provided
a rigidly symmetrical solution. Irish battlements enliven the roofline; chimney
stacks have been turned into turrets; and over the centre of the house rises an
Inverary motif; towers have been added to the corners of the house. Gothic
formulae—labels, shallow pointed arches—have been applied to the windows,
but Johnston’s Headfort stubbornly remains a large classical country house that
has been prettified in a castle style.
At St. Catherine’s the following year Johnston suggested a genuinely prettier
solution.43 Again, gothic formulae were applied, but even less substantial addi-
tions were proposed than in Headfort. An elegant gateway joining the house to
a little chapel to the north gives the east front of the design (Plate 15) as drawn,
an attractive asymmetry. However, in the other elevations—the main entrance
elevation and the long southern elevation overlooking the Liffey—Johnston
made insistent demands on regularity and symmetry. On the southern facade
these are disturbed by the projection from the side elevation of the oval bay.44
The regularity of the window levels is disturbed by the lancets in the “towers,”
but again Johnston let St. Catherine’s remain clearly a classical house, altered
in a very routine and insubstantial way.
42) l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3.
43) As well as drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2. there are two elevations in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 16.
44) This is a recurring feature of Johnston’s designs that the symmetry of complete facades
is perfect, if we ignore what may project slightly from other facades. It appears at Killeen,
Glenmore and Markree as well as at St. Catherine’s. It is a relaxed symmetry, as distinct
from a more abstract type which might apply to the plan considered as a whole.
8319. Slane Castle, proposed elevation by James Gandon (Nat. Libr.).
The major works in the second category are on Killeen Castle,45 Markree,46
and Glenmore.47 Johnston’s early, unexecuted designs for Killeen are interest-
ing. There is a freedom and an informality of plan (Plate 15a) which appears
elsewhere in his work; the attempt not simply to preserve the symmetry of the
exterior but to introduce a symmetry which the original mediaeval castle never
possessed is also typical. But the deep niches of the Library come as a surprise,
and the informality of plan is brought to far greater degrees than anywhere
else. Johnston liked a freedom in plan and he liked the large sweep of ample
curves to play a part in the plan—one thinks of the half elliptical bedrooms of
Corbalton Hall and of Markree; but the play with irregular room shapes, with
circles, with ten sided figures and even with piano-shaped rooms is parallelled
nowhere else in his work. These designs were not executed.
The design as built exploits the projections of the original facade, but only
slightly (Plate 16). The chances these projections provided for varying the skyline
45) Co. Meath; for Lord Fingall; Drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 3, signed and dated 1802
and alternative designs in 1803-4. Later enlarged by Shiel.
46) Or Mercury Castle, Co. Sligo, for Joshua Edward Cooper; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 3, signed and dated 1802-4.
47) Co. Wicklow; for Francis Synge; drawings in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 13 and PF 14. Now
in ruins.
8420. Glenmore Castle, Co. Wicklow, design for south-east elevation by Francis Johnston
(Nat. Libr.).
in a picturesque way were ignored. Johnston started out here in Killeen with
an original mediaeval castle and finished with a structure that almost looks as
if it could be a cleverly gothicized classical house. The Romance of the castle
was killed. The logical, serious, painstaking Johnston had no control over the
powerful association of ideas, so important in the appreciation of the castle style.
At Markree, Johnston built large additions in the castle style to an originally
classical house (Plate 17). The long south-east front (Plate 18) repeats the basic
scheme of Slane Castle, but the Slane as designed by James Gandon (Plate 19)
rather than by Wyatt. The long facade is organised just as at Slane, but it has
been flattened out, with the central semicircular tower replaced by a more gentle
and a shallower curve. The pointed arches of the ground floor of the central
tower18 echo Slane, and the circular openings below echo an alternative design
by Gandon for Slane.40 The skyline, though enlivened with Irish battlements,
has been made more even than in Slane and this, together with the flattening
of the facade and the discontinuity of floor levels and windows, makes of this
main elevation of Markree a much less powerfully massed whole than Gandon’s
scheme. Markree, of course, lacks the dramatic situation of Slane overlooking
a sharp fall of ground, sweeping down to the Boyne; but essentially it was
Johnston’s treatment of the theme,50 with his reluctance to use pronounced
vertical or horizontal projections, which denied Markree the drama of Gandon’s
design.
48) Johnston’s original design was for three pointed arches in the ground floor of the central
“tower”; only the middle opening was built arched.
49) Illustrated in catalogue of I.A.D. exhibition 1965, No. 68; drawing in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 2. These openings were built square, at Markree.
50) The relationships between Markree and Slane Castle, and between RokebyHall and Lucan
House, have some features in common. In both cases Johnston’s houses are more static,
less richly modelled than the earlier buildings.
8522. Charleville Castle, Co. Offaly. Country Life,
The relentless symmetry of the separate elevations of Glenmore (Plates 20,
21), the shallow projections—this time in the form of canted bays as in the
parlour at Killeen, the narrow corner towers as at Headfort, the central accent
enlivened with Irish battlements as at Markree, and the classical proportions
of solid to vofd in the flat intermediate wings, all these can be seen as predictable
in a Johnston castle. The refusal at Markree to fuse the potentially powerful
forms into a forcefully massed composition became, at Glenmore, a failure to
synthesise the masses into satisfying elevations: the south-east front of Glenmore
can be seen as an inverted Markree-Slane theme, with a polygonal projection
of three bays in the centre of the facade separated by flat intermediate wings of
three bays from circular corner towers. The corner towers and central motif rise
up above the level of the neighbouring bays but this variation of level is com-
promised by the intervening chimney stacks. The interiors at Glenmore were
classical, and the broad sweep of the curved staircases of Townley Hall and
Corbalton Hall was repeated. Otherwise the plan is uneventful and informal and,
like the elevations, a little dull. The bleakness which Johnston chose to impart
to the elevations he imparted even to the surrounding landscape in this drawing.
He was not fair to the country-side around the Devil’s Glen: looking at the
house, one feels that he may not have been entirely fair to Francis Synge either.
At first sight Charleville Forest, built for the Earl of Charleville from 1801
onwards,51 is spectacularly different from Johnston’s other castle style houses.
The entrance elevation (Plates 22, 23) shows a very marked asymmetry. The
roofline develops the Inverary tower motif suggested for Headfort House, while
the round north-east corner tower, a little self-consciously, makes a determined
bid for irregularity. The main block of the house is nearly square in plan, with
a tower at each corner—square towers at the corners of the rear elevation, and
on the entrance front a broad circular tower on the left corner, and on the right
51) Drawings for Charleville Forest are in the l.A.R.A. Coll.. PF 2, signed and dated 1801.
See Mark Girouard, Country Life, 27 September 1962.
a 723. Charleville Castle, view of entrance elevation. Country Life.
an octagonal one. From this octagonal tower runs out a lower range of buildings
—chapel, kitchens, offices—on a diagonal axis. “Ore-like in its sprawl, the char-
acter of the house was forbidding, even cruel; and in Irish architecture this was
entirely new.”62
A letter from Lady Louisa Conolly to Lady Charleville dated November 8,
1800,53 mentions the very considerable part which the patron played in the
design of this castle. Her statement, however, that he had “planned it all him-
self” is unlikely to refer to the castle as built. Johnston’s drawings date from the
following year, and throughout the building can be seen Johnston’s attempts to
assert himself over Charleville’s demands which were basically foreign to his
nature as an architect. The buildings beyond the chapel on the diagonal wing—
the offices—are quite symmetrical. The elevations of the main block (apart from
the entrance front) are, apart from the corner towers, as symmetrical, regular
52) Rowan, op.cit.
53) This letter is quoted in Girouard, op.cit. “1 am very glad to hear that you have begun
your Castle . . . and Lord Tullamoore I am sure will enjoy it much having planned it all
himself.
K
8824. Charleville Castle, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr).
and austere as any elevation of Townley (Plate 24). Even with the corner towers,
the rear elevation is entirely symmetrical.
Inside, the details of plumbing, joinery and decoration are entirely Johns-
tonian. Water which is collected from the roof is piped to lavatories; there are
open fan shapes in the window reveals,54 gently convex chimney breasts,°5 crisply
carved oak leaves and acorns on the chimneypieces, plaster vaulting in the pas-
sages leading from the centrally placed bedroom hall which rises through the
first and second storeys and is top-lit by a dome in the Inverary tower. The
fan-vaulting in the great Gallery anticipates the vaulting of the aisles of the
Chapel Royal. The design for the chimneypiece in this Gallery is taken from a
door in Magdalen College.50 Further, the plaster moulding on the ribs of the
small first floor room in the large circular tower reappears in the vaults of the
Board Room and Governor’s Room in the Bank of Ireland.
That many of the decorative details in Charleville should reappear in the
Bank, in the Chapel Royal or in St. George’s is not surprising since these works
54) Dr. Maurice Craig has pointed out that these characteristic fan shapes occur in Kilcarty
by Thomas Ivory.
55) As in Armagh Observatory.
56) This was pointed cut by Girouard, op.cit.
8925. Primate’s Chapel, Armagh, design for interior of west end, by Thomas Cooley (Nat.
Libr,).
90for interior of west end, by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
91Primate”s Chapel, view of west end.
are roughly contemporary with Charleville.67 But the fact that some such details
can be shared by buildings as stylistically varied as these is more noteworthy.
This property of versatility was pointed out by Dr. Maurice Craig.68 The crisp
naturalism of the oak leaf mouldings in St. George’s or Townley Hall is entirely
in keeping with the moods of the Dublin church and of the Louth mansion. Yet
it attains a new appropriateness in Charleville Forest, not only to the Gothic
character of the house, but to the site of the ancient oak forests of Offaly on
which the house stands.
Part of the significance of Johnston’s castle style houses lay in the fact that
all of them, except Glenmore, had fully Gothic interiors. As with the Greek
Revival, it was not Johnston who initiated the fashion in Ireland, but it was he
who helped to popularize the style. Alistair Rowan has shown the importance
of Wyatt’s Library in Slane Castle for this development of the idea of a Gothic
domestic interior.50 fn Slane we can see, not only the origin of the idea, but,
I believe, the specific source for many of Johnston’s decorative motifs. The
abundance of plaster heads in Slane immediately recalls the Chapel Royal and
Killeen Castle. Further, the low dado, the oak leaf and acorn mouldings, and
57) Charleville, begun in 1801, was not finished until 1812.
58) M. Craig, op.cit., p. 282.
59) Rowan, op.cit., p. 238.
9228. Primate’s Chapel, view of east end of ceiling.
the kind of bubbling-seaweed carving all lead back to indicate another aspect
of the profound influence of James Wyatt on Johnston, and through him on
Irish architecture.
Johnston’s castle style phase was short.60 Ironically, the most successful and
influential building of this period—Charleville—was the one where his person-
ality, though evident, was obscured by the demands of the owner, demands
which Johnston could not have been happy to satisfy. The romance of the castle
style was foreign to his cautious nature, and it was the last experiment he made
in domestic architecture. His abandonment of the style when work on Pakenham
Hall finished in 1810 reflects not so much a rejection of a style which he realized
as unsuitable, but rather a slackening in the domestic side of his practice. For
in 1805 he had been appointed Architect of the Board of Works and Civil
Buildings, and the bulk of his work was to be centred in Dublin from that date,
until his architectural activity began to decline with the rise of the General Post
Office, sometime before 1820.
60) In 1806 he made alterations to Pakenham Hall (now known as Tullynally House), Co.
Westmeath, for the Earl of Longford. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 6. Later additions
are by James Shiel and Richard Morrison. In 1814 he suggested additions and castellations
to Kilruddery House, Co. Wicklow, for the Earl of Meath. Drawings in I.A.R.A. Coll.,
PF 6. These suggestions were not adopted, and are of interest only as extreme instances of
how far Johnston sometimes went in the search for symmetry. In PF 19 there are plans by
Johnston and Murray for unimportant extensions to Howth Castle, in 1825.
9329. Primate’s Chapel, pilaster capital.
2. CHURCH ARCHITECTURE
When Francis Johnston succeeded Cooley in 1784 as architect to Primate
Robinson, his first task was to complete the buildings which Cooley had begun
and left unfinished at his death. He erected the tower and spire over the crossing
of the Cathedral in Armagh and an obelisk on Knox’s Hill in the grounds of the
Primate’s Palace. He also decorated the interior of the Primate’s Chapel, a little
temple by Cooley with a tetrastyle Ionic portico standing beside the Palace.
Some very fine stone details on the exterior of this Chapel, reflected in the very
high quality of the stone details in Cooley’s Royal Exchange in Dublin, suggest
that one of Johnston’s important debts to Cooley was a careful and meticulous
attention to stonework.
As can be seen from Cooley’s designs for the interior (Plate 25), Johnston was
tactful in his approach and mindful of Cooley’s original intentions. There is a
drawing1 in the National Library, signed by Johnston, and dated 1785 (Plate 26),
which shows the interior of the chapel largely as it exists today (Plate 27). It is
a superbly executed drawing,2 and its phenomenal minuteness of detail shows
1) This drawing is in the I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 2, Armagh Palace folder, No. 4.
2) It must, however, be admitted that the light falls from the left. The only windows in the
drawing are on the right. This photograph conveys none of the remarkably detailed quality
of the drawing.
9430. St. Peter’s Church, Drogheda, view of steeple (Lawr. Coll.)
9531. Chapel Royal, Dublin Castle, view of north elevation (Lawr. Coll.).
the exacting standards of the architect who demanded, and obtained, similar
standards from his craftsmen. Structural changes from Cooley’s design are few.
The windows have been changed from the left wall to the right, the gallery has
been given a curved rear wall and the entablature is carried in Johnston’s design
continuously over the gallery. Panelling has been added to the walls which thus
become clearly divided into zones—the zone of pews, and raised above this, the
zone articulated with pilasters.3 The gallery balusters have become attenuated
and graceful. Draperies, always a favourite with Johnston, decorate the gallery.
The ceiling has become coffered, with rosettes in the coffers; and a delicate frieze
which almost looks as if it might have been designed by Michael Stapleton,
surrounds the whole room (Plate 28).
The chapel interiors show two decorative strains. On the one hand is the effete
and rather standard frieze, and the equally routine formalism of the capitals
(Plate 29). On the other hand is the rectangular sobriety of the ceiling (Plate 28),
with the petals of its rosettes curling up at the ends according to vegetable laws
rather than the laws of plaster. For the first strain, Johnston had no time. He
was more interested in experiment than in formula. He rarely used enriched
friezes and in the General Post Office, when he decorated the frieze over the
portico, he turned the traditional anthemion frieze into a knotted, rather wild
and muscular affair. His real interest lay in the development of the second strain,
and in the use of a crisp naturalism, sparingly used, and circumscribed by hard
3) This division of the walls into zones, with the pilasters rising from above the seated com-
munity, can be seen as the Bank Cash Office scheme in embryo.
9632. Chapel Royal, view of east end.
9733. St. Andrew’s Church, Dublin, plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
geometrical shapes. In the rotunda of Townley, there is the formula of the
ox-head frieze; but there are the oak leaf garlands bent into semi-ellipses, and
there is the vine running through a primitive Greek fret. In many ways, the
Townley rotunda is more experimental than the Primate’s Chapel, but both look
forward to the full resolution of his style in the early years of the nineteenth
century.
Johnston’s supervision of work originally designed by Cooley at Ballyma-
kenny Church has already been mentioned, and a close dependence on Cooley’s
style is evident later in Johnston’s work on the steeples at Slane in 1797; St.
Andrew’s, Dublin and St. Catherine’s, Tullamore. Johnston’s activity in de-
signing steeples for churches4 is probably an expression of his own interest in
bell-ringing. (To house his own collection of bells, he built a tower, now demol-
ished, behind his house in Dublin.) In the Public Library at Armagh there is an
interesting collection of drawings by Cooley, dated 1773 and 1774, for churches.
No specific parishes or locations for these churches are mentioned, and it appears
4) John Betjeman, in The Pavilion, lists as a “doubtful attribution” to Johnston the spire of
Lismore Cathedral. The Dean of Lismore, Very Rev. Gilbert Mayes, M.A., has pointed
out to me, however, that the spire was the work of the brothers Paine of Cork, in 1827/8.
The Paines were pupils of Nash, and enjoyed a considerable practice in the south of
Ireland.
9834. St. George’s Church, Dublin, view from Temple Street.
9935. St. George’s Church, view from Eccles Street.
that the collection of designs was made as a sample book, with no particular
commissions in mind. The plans, like those of the churches of Ballymakenny
and Clonmore, are plain, rectangular, with towers on the west ends. The eleva-
tions of these towers, some with spires, others without, consist largely of assem-
blies of standard elements in different combinations—pointed windows, labels,
rectangular openings with almond-shaped windows, circular elements, coats of
arms, corner buttresses ending in pinnacles, battlements. This dull and un-
imaginative method of combining standard motifs in such a way appears often
in Johnston’s steeples, even in the very important steeple of St. Andrew’s in
Dublin. From one who had looked at the Gothic of the English cathedrals, and
from one capable of the refined elegance of the St. George’s steeple, more might
have been expected than a routine reliance on Cooley’s rather impoverished style.
The steeple of St. Peter’s church in Drogheda (Plate 30), of about 1790 is
slightly exceptional, in being more experimental than his other designs. Here he
10036. St. George’s Church, ground plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
10137. St. George’s Church, view under gallery.
put a spire on a tower whose details are classical rather than Gothic. The small
deep semicircular openings repeat a theme of one of the lower storeys of the
tower of the Rotunda Lying-in Hospital in Dublin. The circular element with
side brackets supporting a pediment comes from Gibbs° as, perhaps, do the per-
forations in the spire. The base of the spire itself recalls the base of the spire of
the church at Hillsborough, Co. Down,6 a favourite haunt of Johnston because
of his interest in bell-ringing.
Many of Johnston’s churches have fared badly down through the years.
Clonmore is ruined. The church at Arklow, and the Roman Catholic churches
at Kells and at Drogheda have been demolished. His designs for the church at
Castlepollard, Co. Westmeath, were altered, and a cheaper church built. His
work in St. Andrew’s in Dublin, burnt in the middle of the nineteenth century,
is the most tragic loss; but his two other masterpieces, the Chapel Royal in
Dublin Castle and St. George’s, not only stand but are, happily, immaculately
preserved.
5) Gibbs, A Book of Architecture, e.g. Plate 23.
6) Alistair Rowan, op.cit., p. 93, suggests that this “very fine example of Georgian Gothic
. . . unique in Ireland” may be by Sanderson Miller.
10238. St. George’s Church, view of west end.
The foundation stone of the Chapel Royal7 was laid by the Lord Lieutenant
on 15 February, 1807, and the chapel was opened on Christmas Day, 1814.8 The
exterior of the building (Plate 31) is restrained and not unlike part of the side
elevation of Magdalen College viewed from the Quad, if the projecting lower
storey—in fact part of the Quad cloister—is projected back onto the flat side
facade of the chapel. The stone used is a dark limestone and the dimensions of
the plan were confined to those of the original chapel. The plan is basically
rectangular—inside, the chancel projects beyond the ends of the aisles, between
offices and sacristies which on the outside can be seen, in fact, to protrude beyond
the east end of the chancel. The long side elevations are each divided into six
bays by buttresses ending in pinnacles. Each bay is of two storeys over a base-
ment, with tall windows above lighting the galleries.9 On the pinnacles and under
the labels of the windows are heads sculpted in stone, not out of keeping with
the Gothic character of the whole. There is a suggestion, however, of something
7) The chapel was re-consecrated in 1943 as a Catholic Church dedicated to the Most Holy
Trinity.
8) Johnston’s own description of the Chapel Royal was printed by Patrick Henchy in the
Dublin Historical Record, December 1949-February 1950.
9) The tracery in these windows strongly resembles that of the Magdelen Chapel windows.
103St, George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
unexpected about to happen in the large full-blooded heads of St. Peter over the
north door, of Brian Boru10 over the east door, and in the three-quarter length
figures of Faith, Hope and Charity over the east window.11 The whole effect of
the grey severity of the exterior, however, does not prepare one for the exuber-
ance inside. The entrance to the church is from a low, narrow vestibule on the
west, above which is an upper vestibule opening into the gallery. No grander
approach from the west could easily have been planned, since the space was
limited by the proximity of the Record Tower.12
The interior measures 73 feet by 35 feet, and is divided, despite its narrow-
ness, into a nave and side aisles (Plate 32). The aisles contain a gallery which
continues around the west end where it holds an organ. The ceiling of the nave
is groin vaulted, and over the gallery the ceilings of the aisles have a rich fan
10) Brian Boru was the first High King of Ireland. He died in 1014.
11) All the exterior figure carving, and the plaster figures inside, are by Edward Smyth and
his son John. The stucco ceilings inside are by George, the son of Michael Stapleton, who
decorated Belvedere House. Michael Stapleton died in 1801 and should not be confused—
as sometimes happens—with his son whose style in stucco, seen in the Chapel Royal
(and probably in the somewhat similar Killeen Castle) is totally different.
12) Towards the end of his work on the chapel, Johnston recased the upper storeys of the
Record Tower, and added battlements. For engravings of this work, and his lay-out of the
interiors see the Reports from the Commissioners . . . respecting the Public Records of
Ireland 1810-1815.
10440. St. George’s Church, detail of ceiling.
vaulting with pendants, as if the ceiling of the Charleville Gallery had been con-
tracted and squeezed into the confined narrowness of the galleries here. The
ceilings under the galleries are laid out in tracery, whose lines agree with the
lines of the fan vaulting of the upper ceilings, but projected onto a flat ground.
The pendants are more compressed, and their terminations are decorated with
cherubs’ heads.
The general effect of this interior is one of pomp and richness, a richness of
both colour and form. The pale plasterwork enriched with gold, and the darkness
of the richly carved oak meet in a light softened by coloured glass. Plaster mould-
ings rise in a frothy spray in ogee shapes over the pointed arches of the nave.
Everywhere are plaster corbel heads of kings, evangelists and saints. The glass
panels of the side windows are filled with the arms of Viceroys. The wooden
gallery fronts, too, carry arms, as does the panelling of the chancel; and below
these arms, running all around the galleries, is a carved wooden band of “bub-
bling seaweed” pattern which appears in the gallery of Charleville. The consist-
ency of the decorative scheme is carefully planned—the heraldry in glass and
wood, the heads in carved wood and plaster, and the foliage in glass and plaster
and wood—these themes culminated in the pulpit, originally placed high in the
centre of the east end, raising the preacher to the level of the gallery where the
10541. Daly’s Club House and Parliament House, from the engraving by R. Havell, after
T. S. Roberts, c. 1815 (National Gallery of Ireland).
pew of the archbishop faced that of the Lord Lieutenant.13 The pulpit was central
to the decorative programme of the whole chapel. On it, the carver, Richard
Stewart, combined episcopal arms with naturalistically carved foliage, and set it
on a shaft terminating in a cluster of four heads,14 a clear allusion to the clustered
cherubs’ heads on the pendants below the galleries. But here, the heads are those
of the four evangelists and thus the pulpit—placed in the chancel over which
rises a vault whose ribs spring at each corner from the head of an evangelist—
acted as a focal point of the chapel, and with a thoughtful allusiveness perfected
the consistency of the whole scheme. It is a pity to see here, and in St. George’s,
such thoughtfulness frustrated.
This consistency must be seen underlying the apparently undisciplined frivolity
of the Chapel Royal, when we attempt to place this interior in Johnston’s other-
wise more controlled decorative work. It is also important to acknowledge that,
unlikely though it may seem, Johnston in the Chapel Royal was trying to be
authentically Gothic. Firstly, it appears from the diary he kept of his English
tour in 1796,15 that the qualities he admired most in Gothic architecture were its
lightness and elegance rather than its structural expressiveness. At Gloucester
Cathedral, he admired
“the lightness and true proportion of the Buttresses, the neatness of the belt
courses and elegance of the Gothic screen and pinnacles of the Tower. . . .
“
13) The pulpit has been moved to St. Werburgh’s Church, Dublin.
14) The pulpit is illustrated in H. Wheeler and M. Craig, The Dublin Citv Churches of the
Church of Ireland, Dublin 1948, Plate XVII.
15) The dfery is now in the Armagh County Museum.
106Salisbury was looked at in the same way—he admired the “height, lightness and
elegance of execution” of the Cathedral Tower. The Cathedral itself “is a beauti-
ful light gothick structure with a just uniformity of style in every part.” These
are the only characteristics of Gothic which he mentions.16 He could hardly have
been unaware of the structural expressiveness of Gothic, but his non-Gothic
work shows a repeated avoidance of becoming explicit about actual means of
support for such things as stairs and galleries. He was clearly therefore unlikely
to feel at home with anything but the decorative details of Gothic.
It seems then that he sought to achieve a Gothic effect by the multiplication
of such details as he considered “correct”. His friend Brewer,17 spoke of the basic
seriousness of Johnston’s efforts in the Chapel Royal in describing it as “the
most elaborate effort made in recent years to revive the antient ecclesiastical
style of building.” He went on to say that
“
. . . The plans of the groined ceiling, and of various parts in the detail . . .
are derived from the most highly ornamented divisions of York Cathedral.”
This seriousness of Johnston’s intentions is further confirmed by early com-
mentators on the Gothic Revival. Thomas Bell18 rather surprisingly wrote in 1828
“The revival of this taste in Ireland has been accomplished, or at least the
correct ideas of it which now prevail in this country, have been principally
introduced . . . (by) the architect of the Castle chapel.”19
Whatever we may think of the “correctness” of Johnston’s Chapel Royal, it
seems that he wished it to be correct and authentic. It fails to be this, but re-
mains, with its plaster ceilings, its Virtues reclining in billowing drapery over the
east window, and its display of heraldry, the most intimate of his interiors, and
precious evidence of the kind of surroundings in which the Viceregal Court felt
itself closest to God.
Somewhat similar to the Chapel Royal but much less elaborate was Johnston’s
chapel of the Foundling Hospital20 described in 181821 as “lately finished.” The
same source mentions both its “uncommon elegance” and bad acoustics.22 Other
Gothic churches such as the church at Kells and St. Peter’s Roman Catholic
church in Drogheda, both demolished, were of minor importance. St. Catherine’s
in Tullamore, completed in 1815, was slightly more ambitious. The florid Chapel
Royal style was not appropriate for this* country church, so superbly sited on a
hill overlooking the town. The interior, with its Latin cross plan, its nave with
clerestory, and side aisles is plain and a little dull. For the tower Johnston fell
back on the standard Cooley-inspired solution, and one is inclined to think that,
16) In London on 10th April, he wrote that he went to Westminster Abbey “which was
open” (!) “took a glance at the monuments and thence to Westminster bridge which
I looked at for some time.”
17) J. N. Brewer, Beauties of Ireland 1825-6, vol. 1, p. 63.
18) Thomas Bell, Gothic Architecture in Ireland, 1828, p. 249.
19) Perhaps not unnaturally, Johnston wrote to Thomas Mulvany on 25th February, 1828 that
he was assured of the fidelity and accuracy of Bell’s work. The letter is quoted by Bell,
p. 256.
20) The Foundling Hospital is now St. Kevin’s Hospital: the chapel has been demolished.
21) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, History of Dublin, 1818, p. 585.
22) Direct influence of Johnston’s Chapel Royal was seen in William Farrell’s closely similar
Chapel of the Female Orphan House, built in 1818-19. This has been recently demolished.
10742. Armagh Observatory, view of entrance elevation.
on the whole, St. Catherine’s is a reflection of Johnston’s loss of interest in
provincial commissions (apart from country houses) after his move to Dublin.
The major loss in Johnston’s ecclesiastical architecture was the destruction by
fire in 1860 of St. Andrew’s church in Dublin. In May 1793, a committee was
appointed to carry out rebuilding of the church, which had become ruinous.23
The architect was a John Hartwell, and it was found possible to use part of the
original walls in the new structure, thus preserving the unusual elliptical plan.
The church was used by the Members of the adjoining Parliament House, and
in 1799, with little perception of what was to befall the Irish Parliament in the
following year, they voted £ 1,000
“to enable the parish to complete the repair of the church, and to make
proper accommodation in it for the reception of the Members of the House
of Commons and their Speaker.”24
In 1800 Johnston succeeded Hartwell as architect and worked on the church
until it was re-opened in 1807. This work, his first major commission in Dublin,
included the arrangement of the interior and the design for a gothic tower
(which was never built).25
23) An interesting account of the work on St. Andrew’s from 1793 onwards is given in J T
Gilbert’s A History of the City of Dublin, Vol. 3, pp. 310 ff.
24) Gilbert, op.cit.
25) Illustrated in Betjeman, op.cit., p. 31.
10843. Armagh Observatory, view of rear elevation.
The exteriors of St. Andrew’s26 were of little interest. The steeple was dull, and
the other elevations, though showing Johnstonian details, show little individual
intervention on Johnston’s part in walls which had probably been built by
Hartwell. The “very splendidly decorated” interiors,27 however, were Johnston’s
own, and on these he lavished his invention, his care and his controlled richness
of decoration. The elliptical plan (Plate 33) measured 80 ft. by 60 ft. and a
gallery surrounded the entire church, which was lit, according to the plans in the
National Library, by four windows in the gallery.28 Now it appears that the
church was, nonetheless, so well lit that special screens had to be placed over
the windows to reduce the light.29 Some other light source must be suggested,
and it seems reasonable to suppose that the church was lit by a large oval lantern
in the roof. No drawings in the Murray Collection describe this explicitly; but
one plan,30 showing the seating arrangement, shows a marked shadow cast by the
gallery on the floor beneath, which could only be explained by top-lighting.
26) I.A.R.A. Coll., PF 4.
27) Gilbert, op.cit., p. 311.
28) The plans show a window at each end of the major axis, and another two, both on the same
side of the ellipse, with the organ between them. St. George’s, too, is lit only by windows
in the gallery.
29) Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 10.
30) PF 4, St. Andrew’s folder, No. 1, top sheet.
109The gallery arrangement showed a reluctance to display the means of support
which can be seen too in the solution adopted in St. George’s. The beams
supporting the gallery were not themselves supported at their extremities by
columns, but were cantilevered on columns set close to the walls. It is recorded,31
further, that these columns were
“not reconcilable to any known order, yet do great credit to the taste of the
architect, Mr. Francis Johnston, who seems to have taken the idea from
Mr. Denon’s drawings of Egyptian ruins.”
45. Bank of Ireland, Dublin, ground floor plan, 1855.
A translation of Baron Dominique Vivant Denon’s Voyage dans la basse et la
Haute Egypte had been published by J. Shea in Dublin in 1803, only one year
after the original publication in Paris.32 This detail has led some commentators
to think that the whole church was decorated internally in the Egyptian style.
The drawings in the National Library contradict this interpretation, as indeed
does the architect’s character. Large scale innovations and experiments were
eschewed; it was quite in keeping with his sense of what was proper to confine
his precocious interest in the Egyptian Revival to scholarly allusions in the
orders.
31) Warburton, Whitelaw and Walsh, op.cit., pp. 510-513.
32) A copy of this edition is in the National Library, Dublin.
I l l46. Bank of Ireland, West Hall.
Brewer speaks33 of the interior as being “irresistably affecting,” and so indeed
it must have been, with light streaming down from above onto the pulpit which
was placed, not in the centre of the church, but half-way along a minor axis
of the ellipse so that it rose up towards the gallery which surrounded it. Directly
behind this pulpit, in the gallery, was the organ, and the pews were arranged
so as to converge to this focal point of organ and pulpit. This must have been
one of Johnston’s most powerful interiors, where he was able to join his love
of ample curves, with the excitement of top-lighting so as to develop the drama
of the Townley rotunda to the solemn ends of the traditional Calvinism of the
Irish liturgy.
Rising on a gentle hill on the north side of the city closing the vistas along
Temple Street (Plate 34), Eccles Street (Plate 35), (and along the later Hardwicke
Street) is the church of St. George’s. Johnston began work on the church in
33) J. N. Brewer, op.cit.. Vol. 1, pp. 122-126.
11247. Bank of Ireland, Chimney piece in West Hall, probably executed by Thomas Kirk from
Francis Johnston’s designs.
1802.34 With a terrace of houses laid out in a crescent plan in front of it,35 St.
George’s takes full advantage of its free-standing situation. Like the Chapel
Royal, it is maintained in impeccable condition, but here also, a re-arrangement
of the east end36 has destroyed some of the gentle drama of the original interior.
The exterior of the ground floor is rusticated. The side elevations, like the
entrance facade, are of two storeys, of five bays. The upper windows of the sides
and of the end bays of the front are tall, semicircular-headed windows, while
34) In the Murr. Coll., PF 4, there are drawings for St. George’s signed by Richard Morrison:
an elevation was illustrated in the catalogue of the I.A.D. Exhibition, no. 89. Grouped with
these in the same portfolio are undated designs for unnamed churches by Henry Aaron
Baker and S. Smith. The Murr. Coll. catalogue describes these and Morrison’s designs,
as “competition drawings” for St. George’s.
35) This crescent plan may have its origin in the crescent of Beresford Place, laid out shortly
before 1790, as a setting for Gandon’s newly erected Custom House.
36) The east end was rearranged c. 1880. Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., Plate XIX, reproduce
an old photograph of the church before alterations.
11348. Richmond House of Correction (Richmond or City Bridewell), Cease to Do Evil Gate,
design by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).
11449. Richmond Penitentiary, view of entrance.
those below have segmental tops. A large tetrastyle Ionic portico occupies the
middle of the entrance elevation and supports a pediment behind which rises,
to a height of two hundred feet, the tall steeple which is derived from that of
Gibbs’ St. Martin-in-the-Fields.37 The clock storey and the storey above corre-
spond closely to those of Gibbs’ steeple, but otherwise there are great differences.
St. George’s contrasts the sure succession of the different levels—each rising
smoothly from the one beneath—with the nervous energy of the cornice levels
which cast narrow bands of dark shadow on the white Portland stone. Johnston
made this steeple more substantial than that of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, with
its many perforations, and he modelled this solidity with greater attention to
chiaroscuro than did Gibbs. This is particularly noticeable in the lowest storey
of the Dublin steeple where the columns are deeply recessed into the corners.
The entrance door gives onto a tripartite narthex (Plate 36), in plan not unlike
similar vestibules in Gibbs’ Book38 and similar, too, to the narthex suggested in
Richard Morrison’s designs for St. George’s. Under the spire is an octagonal
vestibule with deep niches, a more strongly modelled space than anything else
in Johnston’s work. In the space on each side of this octagon is a delicate
elliptical staircase. Beyond this narthex, the interior of the church, unlike what
has been described so far, is entirely Johnstonian in feeling, and owes nothing
37) Apart from the design being available in Gibbs’ Book of Architecture, it appears that
Johnston was impressed with Gibbs’ work on his visit to London in 1796. His diary records
for the IOth April “In my walk I stop’d to look at many Churches . . . particularly St. Mary
le Strand and St. Martins in the fields.”
38) e.g. Gibbs, op.cit., Plate 2.
11550. Bank of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
to Gibbs. The interior measures 84 feet by 60 feet and is unusual in being wider
than it is long: as in St. Andrew’s, whose dimensions were very similar, the
longer axis is transversal. Other features recall St. Andrew’s. The body of the
church is very airy and bright, with windows only in the gallery. (In St. George’s,
however, there is a flat ceiling with no top-lighting.) The lower windows seen
on the exterior of the building light, not the interior of the church, but a low
narrow corridor which surrounds three sides of the interior (not the east end),
on the inner wall of which the gallery is cantilevered (Plate 37). Even the doors
leading from this corridor into the body of the church are concealed in the
careful panelling of this inner wall (Plate 38). Here again, Johnston showed
himself reluctant to become explicit in the support of the gallery and one is
11651. Bank, of Ireland, view of Cash Office.
immediately reminded of his remarks on Covent Garden Theatre. He wrote
“This Theatre tho’ smaller is in my opinion superior to that in Drury Lane
both in style of finishing and in the convenience of seeing and hearing, the
Gallerys or Box ranges all hang without support, which gives an elegance
of appearance (when fill’d with Company) not to be described.”39
His liberal use of cantilevered staircases; the supporting columns of the gallery
in St. Andrew’s set back close to the walls; the gallery of St. George’s canti-
levered on an inner wall rather than supported on columns, and the hidden
support of the deep coving and lantern in the roof of the Cash Office in the Bank
of Ireland are all expressions of a preference for apparently effortless support of
39) Diary of his English Journey, entry for 13th April 1796.
117certain members, which shows consistently through his work, and at the same
time explains his lack of affinity with anything authentically Gothic.40
In all of these features there is a close connexion with St. Andrew’s Church.
Here in St. George’s there is the added testimony of the interior decoration as
evidence of Johnston’s skill. This is the apogee of his sparing yet sumptuous
style. The tentative suggestions of brittle elegance of the Primate’s Chapel are a
thing of the past. The unsureness of the Townley rotunda has been strengthened
and clarified in St. George’s, especially in the ceiling (Plates 39, 40).41 There is a
balance of abstract geometrical form and naturalistic detail, a balance of minute-
ness and overall conception of the whole design; above all there is a restraint
and controlled richness, also seen in the interiors of the Bank, which is John-
ston’s mature reaction to the decorative style of Dublin plasterwork in the last
quarter of the eighteenth century.
The first ten years of the nineteenth century, with commissions of such prestige
as the Chapel Royal, St. Andrew’s, St. George’s, the Bank of Ireland, and with
his experiments in the Castle style in domestic architecture, brought full achieve-
ment of maturity as an architect to Johnston. It was a period, however, which can
perhaps be seen as one of regrettable fame, for success brought with it the official
appointment as Architect of the Board of Works and Civil Buildings. In this post
he engaged in the official commissions which were to dominate the rest of his
architectural activity. These, by their nature, demanded the hard and callous
manner of the elevations of the Richmond Penitentiary (Plate 55). But it was a
hardness and callousness which reacted on Johnston himself, and which may
have soured his sensitive touch. For in the last ten years of his life he turned
from architecture to give his attention to increasing his extraordinary collection
of paintings. All this lay ahead, however, when he designed St. George’s, which
takes it place eminently at the very peak of his career. In this church he wor-
shipped, to it he gave his beloved bells, and in its graveyard he is buried. In a
city admittedly poor in steeples that of St. George’s is an inspiring sight, lovely
in all lights but lovelier than anything in Dublin when its white stone is seen in
a harsh white light against the background of a threatening northern sky.
40) As in the staircase of Slane Castle, his structural feats were occasionally too ambitious.
The single span ceiling of St. George’s, receiving no support except from the exterior walls,
threatened to fall in 1836. It was saved by the efforts of the engineer Robert Malet. See
A S h o r t H i s t o r y o f t h e P a r i s h o f S t . G e o r g e , D u b l i n . . . c o m p i l e d . . . b y C a n o n R . J . K e r r ,
M.A., p. 7. See, too, Wheeler and Craig, op.cit., p. 20.
41) A hitherto unidentified drawing by Johnston showing an early—later much modified—
design for this ceiling is in l.A.R.A. Coll., PF 29.
11852. General Post Office, Dublin, view of east elevation.
3. CIVIC ARCHITECTURE
The first important work in Dublin with which Johnston’s name is associated
is the building of Daly’s Club House. This was an exceedingly important com-
mission, “the most superb gambling-house in the world.”1 It stretched from the
Parliament House along Dame Street to Anglesea Street (Plate 41), and there is
an interesting account of it in Gilbert’s History of Dublin,2 in which is quoted the
lavish praise of travellers to the city who, impressed with the magnificence of its
interiors, “concurred in declaring it to be the grandest edifice of the kind in
Europe.” Gilbert, and following him, all other commentators on Johnston,
attribute the design to Johnston.
Now building began on Daly’s in 1789, and it was opened two years later.
Thus, if the building is Johnston’s, it is his first independent work of any signifi-
cance,3 unrivalled in its importance until the building of St. Andrew’s more than
ten years later. His connexion with the Club House must, however, now be ques-
tioned. Firstly, no drawings for this work are known. More important is the fact
that Johnston does not mention it in his letter to Brewer in 1820, a letter in which
1) John Bowden, Tour in Ireland, 1791; quoted by Craig, op.cit., p. 281.
2) J. T. Gilbert, A History of the City of Dublin, 1861; Vol. II, p. 305.
3) This is true if observations elsewhere on the dates and authorship of Rokeby Hall, Bally-
makenny Church and the Drogheda Corn Market are accepted. Work on the Armagh
Observatory did begin in 1789, but the Observatory consists simply of a tower attached to
the rear facade of a small country house (Plates 42, 43).
11953. General Post Office, design of east elevation by Francis Johnston (Mrs. Desmond Forde).54. King’s College, Cambridge, design for Hall and Offices by James Gibbs (from A Book of Architecture).55. Richmond Penitentiary, design for unexecuted elevation by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).56. Richmond Penitentiary, ground floor plan by Francis Johnston (Nat. Libr.).only the most paltry of his commissions was ignored. Johnston would hardly
have ignored “the grandest edifice of the kind in Europe” if it had been his first
important commission. Finally, it can be argued that the style of what still
remains of the building—the centre block, with the top storey altered—cannot
easily be related to Johnston’s work at this time. Dr. Maurice Craig agrees with
me that even in its original form the building was “not very characteristic” of
Johnston.
The importance of Daly’s lay in its relation to the neighbouring buildings of
the Parliament House and Trinity College. The order is exactly that of Pearce’s
Parliament House, and the disposition of orders and masses is not dissimilar to
the arrangement of the Trinity College facade.4 Daly’s was important in extend-
ing the vista from College Green along the newly widened Dame Street in a
coherent and impressive piece of town planning. It is difficult to regard it as
likely that, so early in his architectural career, Johnston had any substantial
responsibility for this major and ambitious project.
An undisputable and more enduring monument to Johnston in College Green
is the Bank of Ireland.5 The Bank opened negotiations to buy the Parliament
House in March 1802. In August 1802 a competition for designs to convert the
building into a bank was announced. There was some initial difficulty in award-
ing the first premium to any one of the thirty-five competitors, and independently
of the competition, and before announcing the result, the Board of the Bank
appointed Francis Johnston as its architect.6 The foundation stone for the new
work was laid on 8 March 1804. The conditions of sale stipulated that the
chambers of the Lords and Commons be altered. It was also thought desirable
that the exterior of the building should be made more uniform and more orna-
mental. The condition of the Parliament House, before alterations, can be seen
from a plan prepared for the 1802 competition (Plate 44). By comparing this
with a plan of the Bank in 1855 (Plate 45) the main outlines of Johnston’s
structural changes can be seen. Firstly, the House of Lords (Plate 45, A) and
Gandon’s approach to it were left unaltered. The House of Commons (Plate
45, B) on the other hand was subdivided into offices but Pearce’s corridor sur-
rounding three sides of the House was unchanged. The space between the
Commons and the portico was extended slightly to the east and became the Cash
Office (Plate 45, C). There were considerable additions in the north-west corner
of the plan, which include a handsome gateway to the guard-house. The main
external changes, however, affected the quadrants. Robert Parke’s “piazza” was
eliminated by rebuilding the western quadrant wall between the free standing
columns which had screened it; and Gandon’s screen wall joining the front
portico to his House of Lords portico on the east was brought slightly forward
and received engaged columns. As Curran has pointed out,7 most of these ideas
4) Daly’s, however, unlike Trinity west front, has undiminished pilasters.
5) An invaluable history of the building of the Parliament House and its subsequent history
as the Bank is contained in C. P. Curran’s appendix to F. G. Hall’s The Bank of Ireland
1783-1946; Dublin and Oxford, 1949.
6) The first premium was awarded to a design signed T.V.; second to John Foulston and
third to Joseph Woods Jr.
7) Hall, op.cit., p. 460.
124were contained in the various plans by other competitors, or emerged from the
comments on these projects made by the assessors of the competition.
The external changes made by Johnston are, in a way, typical of his fondness
for symmetry and of his lack of appreciation of the Picturesque. Gandon’s screen
wall was rather dreary, and can only have gained by being enlivened by the
Portland stone of the engaged columns. But a description of Parke’s “piazza”
given by Curran8 is phrased in terms which speak of its unusually picturesque
quality. Picturesque or not, the sober Johnston completed the symmetry of the
building and walled up the piazza.
The East and West Halls of the Bank are simple vestibules decorated in a
strong and robust style (Plate 46). The walls of the West Hall9 are rusticated for
threequarters of their height, with deep horizontal channelling, which contributes
to the spartan feeling of this room. This effect is softened only by wave pattern
panels and the draperies between the lion head corbels. Such draperies were a
favourite theme of Johnston’s. Nowhere did he use them as successfully as in the
Bank where they are an important part of the scheme of the Cash Office. In the
West Hall they are also used in the chimneypiece (Plate 47) which, though
probably executed by Thomas Kirk, was designed by Johnston. Over the mantle-
piece is a tondo with the arms of the Bank. On each side of the fireplace is a
bracket richly carved with a lion’s head from which issues a fold of drapery.
Above the lion heads, the brackets have been given capitals such as a pilaster
might have. The capitals are those of a disguised but unmistakable Greek Doric
order. The echinus may be covered lightly with a leaf design, but the shape,
placed directly over the three-ribbed necking band has the profile of a Greek
Doric capital. This seems a small point but it is significant. The Cease to do Evil
Gate of the City Bridewell (Plate 48) is crowned with a plain triangular piece of
masonry which is supported on a moulding which has the same echinus and
necking band profile as the Bank chimneypiece. At the entrance to the Richmond
Penitentiary the balcony over the door is supported on brackets which have a
similar profile (with a deeper echinus) (Plate 49). The Greek Doric capital profile
also appears on the impost mouldings of the ground floor arcade of the General
Post Office. This allusiveness and insistent return in details to the motifs of the
Greek Doric order characterize his interest in the Greek Revival in his later
work. In his early houses, when the Revival was an innovation, Johnston had
used the Doric and the Primitivist orders as at Townley in a full, if non-monu-
mental, way. Then, just as the public was ready to take a grand monumental
statement of the Revival (Nelson’s Pillar10 was begun in 1808; St. Mary’s Pro-
Cathedral in 1816), Johnston retired into the scholarly allusiveness of the above
examples. His reticence is typical; fine though they were, the grand monuments
of the Greek Revival implied a certain exaggeration of effect which Johnston
could never use.
8) Hall, op.cit., p. 446.
9) Dr. Maurice Craig suggests that the West Hall is still largely by Pearce.
10) The design of Nelson’s Pillar is sometimes attributed to Johnston. Early topographical
guides to Dublin, and more recently Dr. Maurice Craig, all give the design to William
Wilkins and the superintendence of the work to Johnston. The scale of this vast single
Doric column seems to be unlike anything Johnston would have designed. See Patrick
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 208. “(Dunlop. Sub Delap/LGI1912) A hybrid house, partly medieval, with a three light Perpendicular window, and partly Georgian Gothic; with a Regency bow front on the gardy side, and Victorian ironwork and other Victorian features. Now semi-derelict. Folly tower and folly arch spanning public road.”
Detached five-bay two-storey house, built c. 1820, comprising two-bay castellated Gothicised block and two-bay standard Georgian block, flanking tripartite arcaded and glazed projecting porch. Regency bow front to garden elevation. Hipped slate roof with rendered chimneystack. Rendered walls. Pointed arch openings to Gothicised block and square-headed openings to Georgian block, having timber sliding sash windows. Incorporating medieval tower house.
Appraisal
This unusual house retains fabric which is medieval, Georgian Gothic, standard Georgian and Regency. It also exhibits later Victorian alterations and additions. This complex combination makes for a house of great character and charm.
Freestanding monumental limestone entrance gateway, built 1869. Triumphal arch form with round-headed carriage opening set within square-headed surround crowned by limestone parapet. Limestone rubble masonry with tooled limestone ashlar voussoirs, string course and rebate. Carved limestone plaque with hood moulding bearing inscription and date 1869, to west elevation. Formerly served as entrance to Monasterboice House, now narrow public road, fronting on to wider road to west, very overgrown, vegetation possibly masking boundary wall to north and south.
Appraisal
This fine monumental gateway with its imposing triumphal arch form is an important component of the architectural heritage of the Monasterboice House Demesne. Fine detailing and skilful construction add to its architectural value and it is a landmark feature within the landscape.
In the 1830s, William Drummond Delap of Monasterboice House, County Louth was paid £1,933 by the British government. The reason: he was being compensated for the abolition of slavery in the Caribbean colonies. Mr Delap, it transpires, had owned 96 slaves on two plantations in Jamaica. Slavery there, and on the other islands in the area, had been abolished in 1833, but such was the level of complaint about loss of revenue from former owners, not least those like Mr Delap who lived on the opposite side of the Atlantic, that four years later parliament passed the Slave Compensation Act, resulting in some £20 million being paid out. Little work has been done in Ireland on the benefits enjoyed during the 17th and 18th centuries by some country house estate owners who were involved in plantations, although twelve years ago History Ireland published a highly informative article by Nini Rodgers on the subject of Irish links to the slave trade (see: https://www.historyireland.com/18th-19th-century-history/the-irish-and-the-atlantic-slave-trade). In England, and indeed in France too, much more research has been undertaken on the matter, not least at University College London’s Centre for the Study of the Legacies of British Slave-ownership, where archival examination has discovered who were the beneficiaries: it has, for example, documented which country houses owe their existence, in part or whole, to money that came through slavery in the Caribbean. In 2013, the centre created a database of the individuals who were paid compensation when slavery was finally abolished, and it includes some 170 names of people in Ireland, not least William Dunlop Delap. His brother Colonel James Bogle Delap, a friend of George IV, received £4,960. Among the others, some are well-known, such as two members of the banking La Touche family (£6,865 between them) and Howe Peter Browne, second Marquess of Sligo (£5,425). However, by far the largest beneficiary was one Charles McGarel of Larne, County Antrim whose claim for 2,777 slaves on twelve different plantations led to his receiving no less than £135,076. (To explore the documentation relating to Ireland, see: https://www.ucl.ac.uk/lbs/search).
William Drummond Delap was a descendant of Hugh Dunlop who around 1600 moved from Ayrshire in Scotland to Sligo where he was involved in the wine trade. His son Robert moved to County Donegal, which is where successive generations of the family lived, their surname becoming corrupted to Delap. Robert Delap, born in 1754, graduated from Trinity College Dublin and was admitted to the Middle Temple before being called to the Irish bar in 1778. Two years before he had married Mary Ann Bogle, daughter of James Bogle of Castlefin, County Donegal. It was Mary Ann’s family, likewise of Scottish origin, which had plantation interests in Jamaica: the UCL Legacies of British Slave-ownership site lists 21 persons of that name. Evidently she acquired a substantial stake in these properties following her marriage: Robert Delap died at sea while returning from the Caribbean in 1782, leaving a widow with several young children including William Drummond who was then barely two years old. In 1805 he married Catherine, eldest daughter of William Foster, Bishop of Clogher and brother of John Foster, last Speaker of the Irish House of Commons. In 1811 John Foster described his niece’s husband as ‘a good man of business resident in London where he acted as a merchant and has a West India property of his own to look after.’ Around 1830 he decided to move to Co Louth, where many of his wife’s family owned land, and there he bought various parcels to create an estate of more than 1,200 acres on which he either built, or more likely enlarged, Monasterboice House. He also laid out elaborate terraced gardens and planted many specimen trees. On a rise south-west of the house he erected a folly, called Drummond Tower after his maternal grandmother who had helped to raise him after his father’s early death. In 1861 he resumed by licence the family’s original surname of Dunlop.
Not much appears to be known about the history of Monasterboice House, now a ruinous building. At its core looks to be a typical late-mediaeval tower house, which as was so often the case has been subject to various structural alterations but is still clearly distinct rising on the northern section of the site. To the south is what appears to be a late 18th/early 19th century residence, of two storeys over basement, three bays with the centre one in the form of a substantial bow. The ground floor of this has glazed doors that once opened onto the terraced gardens and is flanked by Wyatt windows typical of the period. The house’s principal entrance lies on the west side, and was formerly approached by a long avenue. Perhaps to harmonise with the old tower house, this section was gothicised in the Tudoresque manner with arched windows and a large porte-cochere in front of a castellated porch. The back of the house opens to two large yards beyond which was the walled garden. It looks as though the building was developed in three sections, first the tower house, then the villa and finally a Tudor-Gothic expansion. In Samuel Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of Ireland, he writes of Monasterboice House that ‘a spacious mansion is now being erected by the proprietor.’ Lewis’ work came out in 1837, just as compensation was being paid to former plantation owners, such as William Drummond Delap/Dunlop. A suspicion forms that the money he then received was used to improve his country residence. Future generations did not enjoy it for long: his son and heir Robert Foster Dunlop married a cousin, the Hon Anna Skeffington but the couple had no son and their daughters do not seem to have occupied the place. At the start of the last century, the estate built up by William Drummond Delap was divided up and while the Louth Archaeological and History Society Journal reported in 1945 that the house was ‘in a fair state of preservation’ that is certainly no longer the case.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 194. “(Plunkett, Louth, B/PB) The familiar Irish castle theme of an old tower-house with a later building attached; but in this case the three storey nine bay 1760 addition is as high as the old tower, and there is a continuous skyline of early C19 battlements; the whole effect being one of vastness and a certain grimness. In the entrance front, which is plain except for a small C18 pedimented and fanlighted doorway, the old tower projects at one end, forming an obtuse angle with the later building; it is differentiated by having pointed Georgian Gothic windows whereas in the rest of the façade there are ordinary rectangular sahse; it also had slightly higher battlements, with Irish crow-stepped battlements at the corners, which are balanced by similar battlements at the opposite end of the front. In the garden front, there is a projection at one end with a shallow curved bow, giving the effect of another tower; the ground floor windows of the bow being Georgian Gothic. There is good plasterwork of ca 1800 in the principal rooms, the largest being a ballroom in the bow of the garden front.”
Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached multiple-bay three-storey Georgian house, built c. 1760, now in ruins. Shallow projecting curved bow to the east of south elevation c. 1805, tower house to west c.1350. House destroyed by fire in 2000. Roof not visible, hidden behind crenellated parapet, remains of red brick corbelled chimneystack to angle of fourteenth-century house and eighteenth-century house, south elevation. Roughcast-rendered over squared coursed rubble stone walling, coping to crenellations. Pointed arch square- and round-headed window openings, tooled limestone sills. Round-headed door opening to north elevation flanked by engaged tooled limestone columns, surmounted by broken pediment and fanlight, painted timber door with ten flat-panels, Plunkett family crest above pediment. House situated within field with ranges of random rubble stone outbuildings to west c. 1805, arranged around three yards; remains of walled garden to west, artificial lake to south, dovecot to south-west. Entrance gates to north-east on roadside comprising tooled limestone squared piers, cast-iron gates, flanked by pedestrian gates and curving quadrant plinth surmounted by cast-iron railings.
Appraisal
This house was the home of the Plunkett family, Lords of Louth, from the later medieval until the early-twentieth century. The continuity of occupation is reflected in the architectural changes, the migration from tower house to Georgian mansion. A fire in 2000 destroyed delicate early nineteenth century interior plasterwork. The archaeological, architectural and historical associations of this building are as immense as the structure itself.
Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.Louth Hall, County Louth, courtesy National Inventory.
In Blake, Tarquin. Abandoned Mansions of Ireland. Collins Press, Cork, 2010.
Louth Hall. (notes from Abandoned Houses of Ireland,by Tarquin Blake), 365 windows. Owners: 1541, Oliver Plunkett, made Baron of Louth, by Henry 8th; 1641, 6th.Baron, Oliver, converted to Irish rebels – imprisoned for High Treason. Cromwell forfeited the huge lands, Charles ii restored, 1669. 11th Baron, Thomas Oliver, House of Lords. 1805- extensions to House – 250 acres with 700 trees, total, 3,068 acres. 1909, most sold off to tenants. 14th Baron died 1941 – all sold, 1953, derelict.
The last Roman Catholic to be executed in England for his faith (although officially it was for high treason), Oliver Plunkett was also the first Irishman to be canonised for some seven centuries when declared a saint in 1975. Born 350 years earlier in Loughcrew, County Meath, Plunkett was member of a family which traced its origins back to Sir Hugh de Plunkett, a Norman knight who had come to Ireland during the reign of Henry II. His descendants established themselves primarily in Meath and Louth and soon acquired large land holdings in both. During the Reformation period, the Plunketts remained loyal to the Catholic religion of their forebears. Oliver Plunkett’s education was accordingly assigned to a cousin Patrick Plunkett, Abbot of St Mary’s, Dublin (and brother of the first Earl of Fingall). He then travelled to Rome where he entered the Irish College and became a priest, remaining in Italy until 1669 when appointed Archbishop of Armagh: the following year he returned to this country where he established a Jesuit College in Drogheda. However, changes in legislation and government attitudes towards Catholicism following the so-called Popish Plot of 1678 obliged him to go into hiding. Finally arrested in Dublin in December 1679 he was initially tried in Ireland but when the authorities here realised it would be impossible to secure a conviction he was taken to London where found guilty of high treason ‘for promoting the Roman faith’ and hanged, drawn and quartered at Tyburn in July 1681: since 1921 his head has been displayed in a reliquary in St Peter’s, Drogheda.
One of the houses associated with Oliver Plunkett is Louth Hall, County Louth. It was here he came to stay on his return to Ireland in 1670, provided with lodgings by his namesake and kinsman Oliver Plunkett, sixth Baron Louth. The original building on the site was a late-mediaeval tower house set on a hill above the river Glyde. This branch of the family had been based at Beaulieu, immediately north of Drogheda but in the early 16th century another Oliver Plunkett moved to the site of Louth Hall and in 1541 was created the first Lord Louth by Henry VIII. He may have improved the property to befit his status but given the travails that befell his successors as they remained Catholic during the upheavals of the next 150 years it is unlikely much more work was done to the building: on a couple of occasions their lands were seized from them or they were outlawed. The ninth Lord Louth, a minor when he succeeded to the estate in 1707, was raised in England in the Anglican faith and so his successors remained until the second half of the 19th century when the 13th Baron Louth was received into the Catholic church. Meanwhile considerable changes were wrought to their house, to which c.1760 a long three-storey, one-room deep extension was added. Further alterations were made in 1805 when Richard Johnston, elder brother of the more famous Francis, created several large spaces including a ballroom with bow window to the rear of the building. He was also responsible for inserting arched gothic windows to the original tower house and providing a crenellated parapet to conceal the pitched roof behind.
The Plunketts remained at Louth Hall until almost the middle of the last century. Most of the surrounding estate, which in the 1870s ran to more than 3,500 acres, was sold following the 1903 Wyndham Land Act but the house stayed in the family’s ownership and was occupied by the 14th Lord Louth who died in 1941. Louth Hall was then disposed of and seems to have stood empty thereafter. When Mark Bence-Jones wrote of the house in 1978 (Burke’s Guide to Country Houses: Ireland), he included a photograph of the dining room being used to store sacks of grain. Fifteen years later Christine Casey and Alistair Rowan (Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster) wrote of ‘delicate rococo plasterwork’ in two niches of the same room, and of crisp neo-classical plasterwork in the stairwell, as well as the first-floor drawing room featuring ‘delicate plasterwork of oak garlands and acorns.’ Almost none of this remains today, as vandals set fire to the already-damaged house in 2000 and left it an almost complete ruin. Somehow traces of the original interior decoration remain here and there, tantalising hints of how it must once have looked, but even the Plunkett coat of arms that until recently rested above the pedimented entrance doorcase has either been stolen or destroyed. As so often in this country, the only remaining occupants are cattle. Oliver Plunkett is a much–venerated saint in Ireland but not even his documented links with Louth Hall has been sufficient to protect it from a sad end.
THE BARONS LOUTH WERE MAJOR LANDOWNERS IN COUNTY LOUTH, WITH 3,578 ACRES
This noble family, the eldest branch of the numerous house of PLUNKETT, claims a common ancestor with the Earls of Fingall and the Barons Dunsany; namely, John Plunkett, who was seated, about the close of the 11th century, at Beaulieu, County Louth.
From this gentleman descended two brothers, John and Richard Plunkett; the younger of whom was the progenitor of the Earls of Fingall and the Barons Dunsany; and the elder, the ancestor of
SIR PATRICK PLUNKETT, Knight, of Kilfarnan, Beaulieu, and Tallanstown, who was appointed, in 1497, Sheriff of Louth during pleasure.
Sir Patrick married Catherine, daughter of Thomas Nangle, 15th Baron of Navan, and dying in 1508, was succeeded by his eldest son,
OLIVER PLUNKETT, of Kilfarnon, who was elevated to the peerage, in 1541, in the dignity of BARON LOUTH (second creation).
His lordship wedded firstly, Catherine, daughter and heir of John Rochfort, of Carrick, County Kildare, by whom he had six sons and four daughters; and secondly, Maud, daughter and co-heir of Walter Bath, of Rathfeigh, by whom he had two sons and two daughters.
He was succeeded at his decease by his eldest son,
THOMAS, 2nd Baron (c1547-71), who married Margaret, daughter and heir of Nicholas Barnewall, and was succeeded at his decease by his eldest son,
PATRICK, 3rd Baron (1548-75), who wedded Maud, daughter of Lord Killeen; but dying without issue (having been slain by McMahon, in the recovery of a prey of cattle, at Essexford, County Monaghan), the title devolved upon his brother,
OLIVER, 4th Baron; who having, with the Plunketts of Ardee, brought six archers on horseback to the general hosting, at the hill of Tara, 1593, was appointed to have the leading of County Louth.
He married firstly, Frances, daughter of Sir Nicholas Bagenall, Knight Marshal of Ireland, by whom he had five sons and three daughters; and secondly, Genet Dowdall, by whom he had no issue.
His lordship died in 1607, and was succeeded by his eldest son,
MATTHEW, 5th Baron, who wedded Mary, daughter of Sir Richard Fitzwilliam, of Meryon, and had four sons.
His lordship died in 1629, and was succeeded by his eldest son,
OLIVER, 6th Baron (1608-79); who, joining the Royalists in 1639, was at the siege of Drogheda, and at a general meeting of the principal Roman Catholic gentry of County Louth, held at the hill of Tallaghosker.
His lordship was appointed Colonel-General of all the forces to be raised in that county; and in the event of his lordship’s declining the same, then Sir Christopher Bellew; and upon his refusal, then Sir Christopher Barnewall, of Rathasker.
This latter gentleman accepted the said post of Colonel-General, for which he was imprisoned, in 1642, at Dublin Castle, and persecuted by the usurper Cromwell’s parliament.
His lordship married Mary, Dowager Viscountess Dillon, second daughter of Randal, 1st Earl of Antrim, and was succeeded at his demise by his only son,
MATTHEW, 7th Baron; who, like his father, suffered by his adhesion to royalty, having attached himself to the fortunes of JAMES II.
His lordship died in 1639, and was succeeded by his eldest son,
OLIVER, 8th Baron (de jure) (1668-1707); who, upon taking his seat in parliament, was informed by the Chancellor that his grandfather, Oliver, 6th Baron, had been outlawed in 1641; and not being able to establish the reversal of the same, the dignity remained, for the two subsequent generations, unacknowledged in law.
His lordship was succeeded by his only son, by Mabella, daughter of Lord Kingsland,
MATTHEW, 9th Baron (de jure) (1698-1754), who was succeeded by his eldest son,
OLIVER, 10th Baron (de jure) (1727-63), who wedded Margaret, daughter of Luke Netterville, and had issue,
THOMAS, his successor; Matthew; Susannah; Anne.
His lordship was succeeded by his elder son,
THOMAS OLIVER, 11th Baron (1757-1823), who had the outlawry of his great-grandfather annulled, and was restored to his rank in the peerage in 1798.
He married, in 1808, Margaret, eldest daughter of Randal, 13th Lord Dunsany, and had issue,
THOMAS, his successor; Randall Matthew; Charles Dawson; Henry Luke; Edward Sidney.
His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,
THOMAS OLIVER, 12th Baron (1809-49), who espoused, in 1830, Anna Maria, daughter of Philip Roche, of Donore, County Kildare, by Anna Maria, his wife, youngest daughter of Randall, Lord Dunsany, and had issue,
RANDAL PERCY OTWAY, his successor; Thomas Oliver Westenra; Algernon Richard Hartland; Augusta Anna Margaret; another daughter.
His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son,
RANDAL PERCY OTWAY, 13th Baron (1832-83) an officer in the 79th Highlanders.
14th Baron Louth
RANDAL PILGRIM RALPH, 14th Baron (1868-1941), JP DL, was an officer in the Westminster Dragoons and the Wiltshire Regiment, and served in the First and Second World Wars.
The 14th Baron, though not prominent in politics, did take part in public life: He was a member of the Irish Reform Association, and took part in the campaign for a Catholic University. In politics he was a Unionist. His papers show that he was an active sportsman and also travelled widely.
He sold most of the estate soon after the 1903 Wyndham Land Act. He died in 1941, and was succeeded by his only surviving son Otway, briefly 15th Baron, before his death in 1950.
Louth Hall and demesne at Tallanstown were sold and the family settled at Jersey, Channel Islands.
The 16th Baron died at Jersey, Channel Islands, on the 6th January, 2013, aged 83.
The title now devolves upon his lordship’s eldest son, the Hon Jonathan Oliver Plunkett, born in 1952.
LOUTH HALL, the ancestral demesne of the Barons Louth, is in the parish of Tallanstown, 2½ miles south of the village of Louth, County Louth.
The mansion is a three-storey Georgian house, built ca 1760, now in ruins.
There is a shallow, projecting, curved bow to the east of south elevation of ca 1805; and a tower-house to west of ca 1350.
The roof is not visible, hidden behind a crenellated parapet.
The Plunkett family crest is above the pediment.
Louth Hall is situated within what is now a field, with ranges of random rubble stone outbuildings of ca 1805, arranged around three yards; remains of walled garden to west; artificial lake to south, dovecote to south-west.
Entrance gates to north-east on roadside comprising tooled limestone squared piers, cast-iron gates, flanked by pedestrian gates and curving quadrant plinth surmounted by cast-iron railings.
This house was the home of the Plunkett family from the later medieval until the early-20th century.
The 14th Baron sold most of the estate soon after the 1903 Wyndham Land Act.
He died in 1941, and his only surviving son, Otway, was briefly 15th Baron Louth, before his death in 1950.
The house and demesne were also sold, some years after the estate, and the family settled in Jersey, Channel Islands.
The continuity of occupation is reflected in the architectural changes, the migration from tower house to Georgian mansion.
A fire in 2000 destroyed delicate early 19th century interior plasterwork.
The archaeological, architectural and historical associations of this building are as immense as the structure itself.
First published in March, 2013. Louth arms courtesy of European Heraldry.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 183. “A very perfect small early C18 house of two storeys over high basement, possibly by Richard Castle. Three bay front, tripartite doorway with pediment extending over door and side-lights, on pilaters which stand on miniature rusticated basements; broad flight of steps to hall door. Solid roof parapet; windows surrounds with keystones; bold quoins. Symmetrical rear elevation, wiht blocking round windows and central basement door. Deep hall with chimneypiece of black Kilkenny marble. Plaster panelling in ground floor rooms, with occasional shell and other ornament; wood panelling upstairs. Seat of the Ledwiths, became derelict, now being restored.”
Ledwithstown, County Longford, photograph courtesy of Mark Bence-Jones, A Guide to Irish Country Houses.Ledwithstown House, County Longford, by Peter Murray, 2020, courtesy Irish Georgian Society.
The design of Ledwithstown House has been attributed to Richard Castle, or Cassels, an architect who, in 1728, came to Ireland, from the city of Kassel in northern Hesse, Germany. Castle came at the invitation of Sir Gustavus Hume, of Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, and over the course of a long and successful career designed many buildings, including the Printing House in Trinity College, the Conolly Folly, Leinster House, and Russborough House in Co. Wicklow. Castle also has a number of lesser-known houses attributed to him, including Ledwithstown in Co. Longford. With its Doric temple portico surrounding the entrance door, the exterior of Ledwithstown is plain, almost severe. There is no pretty semi-circular fanlight here; instead three plain squares of glass, and two windows flanking the entrance door that provide light to the hallway. Although relatively small, the windows on the façade are surrounded by heavy stone frames, making them appear larger. Thick glazing bars reinforce the early eighteenth-century character of this house. The attribution to Richard Castle is reasonable, as is the date 1746. All the architectural components have been carefully considered, and a sense of proportion—a term often over-used in relation to eighteenth-century architecture—infuses every element, up to and including the two chimney stacks, which are arranged parallel to the façade. The roof is partly concealed by an elaborate cornice, adding to the Palladian grandeur. The severity of Ledwithstown’s temple front, with its plain pilasters and rusticated base, is relieved by a Baroque flourish of balustrade and steps that lead to the entrance door. Other country houses by, or attributed to Castle include Hazelwood in Co. Sligo and Bellinter House in Co. Meath.
IGS Grants — 2001: repairs to interior decorative plasterwork; 2006: restoration of panelled rooms
The work of the Irish Georgian Society is supported through the Heritage Council’s ‘Heritage Capacity Fund 2022’.
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached three-bay two-storey over raised basement house, built 1746. Hipped natural slate roof hidden behind parapet wall with pronounced moulded cut stone eaves course and with cut stone coping over. Pair of tall dressed ashlar limestone chimneystacks, aligned along with roof ridge, having moulded cut stone coping over. Sections of cast-iron rainwater goods remain, cast-iron hopper dated 1857. Roughcast rendered walls over rubble stone construction; cut stone block-and-start quoins to the corners and chamfered cut stone string course above basement level. Square-headed window openings with replacement nine-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows having cut limestone surrounds with architraves and prominent keystone, and with tooled limestone sills. Central cut stone tripartite Tuscan doorcase to main elevation (south) comprising tetrastyle limestone pilasters resting on rusticated ashlar limestone base section and surmounted by carved pediment. Timber panelled door with overlight and having flanking six-over-four pane timber sliding sidelights. Doorway accessed by flight of moulded cut stone steps flanked to either side (east and west) by splayed rendered walls with cut stone coping over and having terminating cut stone piers (on square-plan) to base with moulded capstones over. Square-headed door opening to the east elevation having cut limestone block-and-start surround with prominent keystone, replacement timber door and a plain overlight. Set back from road in extensive mature grounds to the rural landscape to the south of Keenagh and to the northwest of Ballymahon. Long straight approach avenue to house from the south. Gateway to the south comprising a pair of dressed ashlar limestone gate piers (on square-plan) having moulded plinths and stepped capstones with moulded cornice detail. Single-bay single-storey outbuilding to the southeast of house having rubble stone walls and pitched corrugated-metal roof. Rubbles stone boundary walls to road-frontage and to site.
Appraisal
This sophisticated middle-sized house is one of the most important elements of the architectural heritage of County Longford. Its design has been attributed to the eminent architect Richard Castle (died 1751) who was probably the foremost architect working in Ireland at the time of construction and has been credited with the dissemination of the Palladian architectural style throughout rural Ireland. Ledwithstown House has quite a robust appearance on account of the heavy parapet with pronounced eaves cornice and by the large tall ashlar chimneystacks that are aligned along with the front elevation. Although built using rubble stone masonry, this building is well-detailed with high quality, if robust, cut limestone trim in features like the window surrounds and the heavy eaves cornice. The good-quality dressed limestone quoins to the corners help to emphasise the stocky appearance of this building. The fine Tripartite doorcase with pediment is strongly detailed and provides a central focus to the main elevation. This central focus is further enhanced by the flight of cut stone steps with flanking walls having splayed bases. The house is further enhance by its long and straight drive aligned with the centre of the front elevation, which creates a sense of grandeur and generates a sense of anticipation when approaching the house. The well-crafted gate piers at the start of this driveway complete the setting and add substantially to this important composition. This building has been recently restored after a long period of near-derelict. Ledwithstown House was the home of the Ledwith family from its construction until c. 1900. The Ledwith family were an important in County Longford from c. 1650, and throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries and a number of family members served as Grand Jurors and as High Sheriff of the county (High Sheriffs included George Ledwith in 1764 – 5; James in 1792 – 3, Richard in 1807 and Edward in 1847 – 8).
Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.Ledwithstown, County Longford, courtesy National Inventory.
featured in Great Irish Houses. Forewards by Desmond FitgGerald, Desmond Guinness. IMAGE Publications, 2008.
p. 200. “Ledwithstown House in the north midlands was built in 1746 by Edward Ledwith and occupied by the family until the later part of the 19th century. Among the family members who resided there were the Reverend Palmer in the 1770s and Captain James Smyth Ledwith in the later half of the 19th century.
The Anglo-Norman family of Ledwith was established in County Meath as early as 1270 but the first evidence of the family in south County Longford comes in the middle of the 17th century. Ledwithstown House is probably the work of the great German architect Richard Castle, Officer of the Engineers, who came to Ireland in 1727 to design a house for Sir Gustavus Hume in County Fermanagh. He became one of the most prominent architects in Ireland and contributed to many of the great houses of the 18th century including Leinster House, Powerscourt and Carton.
In 1893, William Ledwith, son of Captain James Smyth Ledwith, leased the house to Thomas Ronaldson and he purchased the property in 1903, thus ending the Ledwith family association with the house. Lawrence Feeney, grandfather of the present owner, bought the house in 1911. During the 1920s, at a time of political unrest in Ireland, Mr Feeney’s widow and family moved out the of the house. For the next six decades the house would be lived in by an assortment of family members, squatters and local eccentrics, until the Feeney family repossessed it in 1981.
Much damage had been done over the years: parts of the roof were falling in, panelling had been removed for firewood and the windows were in a sorry state. With the assistance of the Irish Georgian Society, the owners, Edward Feeney and his wife Mary, have set about restoring and redecorating the house. “I suppose if we had known what lay in store we might never have gone near it,” Edward Feeney says, looking back on the difficulties they encountered. “But we were young and foolish and it was too beautiful a house to leave to fall into complete disrepair. Initially we wanted to just stop the rot nd keep the weather out of the house. Our approach was to take it one step at a time.”
Today the estate has shrunk to 200 acres, having swelled to 2,500 in the middle of the 18th century, yet the family continue to farm the land. They have kept the house as close to the original as possible. “The house is so well designed that there wouldn’t be much point making changes,” says Mary Feeney. “We have always loved the proportions of the house.”
Edward Feeney adds, “Structurally it’s quite modest but it has a typical Castle entrance and a very well-planned layout. We are not certain that Castle was the designer, but the overall structure and the black Kilkenny marble fireplaces would seem to confirm his hand at work. Also, several other houses he worked on at the time, including Belvedere in Mullingar, are not all that far from Ledwithstown. So it’s entirely possible.”
The entrance hall was last decorated in the 1850s. The cornice had to be replaced over the main door and much work was done on the ceilings. Conservation expert Mary McGrath also worked on the colour schemes, and a pale grey thought to be the original colouring was found on the panelling and window and door surrounds. McGrath explains: “In the summertime the door was probably open all the time and in the winter there would have been a fire in the hearth. So of all of the rooms of the house, the hallway was probably painted most often. All of the early coats would have been distemper and as the procedure was to dust off the loose paint and to wash down the walls, it is difficult to be certain about the full sequence of colours.”
[p. 203] “The black Kilkenny marble fireplace in the hall is original and has a black shell motif. Much of the original contents of the house had been sold during an auction in 1911, with the remainder dispersed during subsequent decades. Almost all the furniture has been brought into the house over the last two decades, including a family piano, which stands in front of the fireplace.
The breakfast room contains a fine 1859 Italian marble fireplace. Consultant historic buildings conservator Richard Ireland, who was responsible for the restoration of the surfaces of Castletown, underpinned the remaining plasterwork on the ceiling of this room in 2002. George o’Malley, who is based in County Wicklow, worked on the plasterwork with his father, Tom, who came out of retirement ages 82 to work at Ledwithstown.
When the current owners took over the house, a large tree was growing in the centre of the drawing room and out through the roof. Today the room has been beautifully restored. A local craftsman, who copied a surviving example, replaced the shuttering. The fireplace is not original and dates to sometime in the 1860s. The chandelier was a choice of the owners and the sofas were all bought in Ireland. Many of the pieces of furniture, including a fine Irish table, were bought at auction.
While oil heating has been installed, the family may convert to wood pellets to reduce energy costs. The rooms are modest in scale – the ceilings not quite as high as many Irish country houses of similar scale – so the house is already relatively efficient.
A “Marrakech” red has been chosen for the dining room, which also has a Kilkenny marble fireplace. The table was bought at an auction in Birr. The library, which has a fireplace taken from upstairs, contains some of the few pieces of original furniture including the bookcase and a round circular table. A local dealer told Edward Feeney’s mother that the table, then stored in a nearby hen house, had come out of the house during the auction in 1911. The table was purchased for £4.50
The green bedroom upstairs which has fine wood panelling and a shell motif Kilkenny marble fireplace. The Georgian cream coloured curtains offset the green of the walls. In the master bedroom the wood panelling is being restored by local craftsman Coleman Lovett and an adjacent powder room is being converted into an en suite bathroom. Edward and Mary’s dedication to the restoration of this house and its historic gardens will ensure that Ledwithstown rightfully takes its place as one of Ireland’s great houses.”
Casey, Christine and Alistair Rowan. The Buildings of Ireland: North Leinster. Penguin Books, London, 1993.
Ledwithstown House is a handsome Georgian country house, situated outside the town of Ballymahon, and has been described as a “miniature gem” by architectural historians.
It is believed to have been designed c.1730 by the eminent architect Richard Castle, who died in 1751. Castle, or Cassels, was probably the foremost architect in Ireland at the time of construction and was one of the greatest proponents of Palladian architecture in Ireland.
His domestic villas were strongly influenced by the designs of Italian architect Andrea Palladio, who designed elegant, symmetrical houses with classical details inspired by the architecture of ancient Rome.
Ledwithstown House has solid, robust appearance with a pleasing symmetrical design, typical of Palladian villas. It features finely-carved cut limestone trim, such as the window surrounds and the heavy eaves cornice that runs along the top of the walls.
The good-quality dressed limestone quoins to the corners help to emphasise the stocky appearance of this building. The doorcase is especially attractive and provides a central focus to the main elevation, and is further enhanced by the flight of stone steps to its base.
The house has undergone an extensive programme of conservation and renovation by the present owners from the 1970s onwards, with support of agencies such as the Irish Georgian Society (www.igs.ie).
Ledwithstown House was the residence of the Ledwith family from its construction to around 1900. The Ledwith family were an important family in County Longford from 1650 onwards. Successive generations of family members served in public office as grand jurors, or as high sheriff of the county, including George Ledwith who was the high sheriff in 1764; James Ledwith in 1792, Richard in 1807 and Edward in 1847.
Ledwithstown House is privately owned by the Feeney family.
‘The townland, and chief part of the demesne of Ledwithstown, are in this parish (Shruel), though the dwelling house and offices are in the parish of Kilcommack. It has been long the residence of a respectable family of the name of Ledwith, who possess a considerable property in this neighbourhood.’ A Statistical Account, or Parochial Survey, of Ireland, 1819. In 1976 Maurice Craig wrote of Ledwithstown, County Longford, ‘there can be few houses of its size in Ireland more thoroughly designed, and with internal decoration so well integrated.’ The house has long been attributed to Richard Castle and is one of three such properties considered to have been designed by the architect, the other two being Gaulstown, County Westmeath (see Gallia Urba est Omnis Divisa in Partes Tres, February 24th 2014) and Whitewood Lodge, County Meath (see An Appalling Vista, February 9th last). In their form and composition this triumvirate demonstrates a steadily growing assurance, with Ledwithstown displaying by far the greatest sophistication and thus inclining to the idea that it was the latest, probably dating from the second half of the 1740s (Castle died in 1751). Relatively little is known of the building’s history, other than that until 1911 it was owned, although not always occupied, by the Ledwith family who settled in the area around 1650. Members of that now-vanished class, the gentry, the Ledwiths played their part in local society as Grand Jurors and High Sheriffs but otherwise came little to public notice. The same is true of their former home, which despite its considerable charm, can be passed unnoticed on the public highway: again like Gaulstown and Whitewood, Ledwithstown lies at the end of an exceptionally long, straight drive.
As with Gaulstown and Whitewood, Ledwithstown is a three-bay house of two storeys over a semi-raised basement. With all three the main entrance is approached by a flight of stone steps; in this instance, the supporting walls splay out to create the impression of a ceremonial approach to the door. In the case of the other two properties, the doorcase is relatively plain, of cut limestone with a fanlight (that at Gaulstown also has side lights). Ledwithstown’s south-facing doorcase is altogether more elaborate, a cut-stone tripartite Tuscan design incorporating tetrastyle pilasters resting on rusticated base and surmounted by carved pediment. Such an entrance immediately indicates this is a building with greater aspirations than those of its siblings. In other respects, however, the facade of Ledwithstown is closer in spirit to Whitewood than to Gaulstown, sharing the same heavy parapet wall concealing the greater part of a slated roof with a pair of substantial chimneystacks (those at Gaulstown are at either gable end). Likewise Ledwithstown and Whitewood have raised corner quoins which add further gravitas to the building, the most striking differences between the two being that Whitewood’s facade is of cut stone (as opposed to roughcast render over rubble stone) and Ledwithstown’s first floor fifteen-pane sash windows share the same proportions as those one storey below (their equivalents at Whitewood are smaller).
The interior design and decoration of Ledwithstown is much more elaborate than either of the two houses with which it bears comparison. Although measuring just forty-eight by forty-seven feet, it can be considered a country house in miniature, the layout being identical to that found in many larger properties. There are, for example, two staircases, that to the west, of carved wood, serving only the ground and first floors while secondary service stairs of stone to the east also descend to the basement area. Immediately inside the entrance hall are doors to left and right providing access to the former morning room and study; a matching pair to the rear open to the staircases while one in the centre of the back wall leads to the drawing room. Here and in the adjacent dining room, the walls retain their mid-18th century plaster panelling, that in the drawing room being especially fine with a combination of lugged and round topped panels topped by swags or baskets of fruit and shells. Similarly the main staircase, lit by a round-topped window, has timber wainscoting and leads to a panelled first floor landing with egg-and-dart and dentil cornicing; one of the rooms on this level is entirely panelled in wood and others still contain their shallow limestone chimney pieces. The basement likewise keeps much of its original character with a sequence of rooms opening off a central stone-flagged and vaulted central passage.
In 1911 Ledwithstown was bought from the original family by Laurence Feeney. However, following his premature death just six years later, the house was let to a variety of tenants none of whom took care of the property; seemingly a brother and sister who lived there for a while removed all the door and shutter knobs, while another family allowed the chimneys to become blocked and then knocked holes in the walls to permit smoke escape. In 1976 Maurice Craig described Ledwithstown as being ‘unhappily in an advanced state of dilapidation, perhaps not beyond recovery’ and two years later Mark Bence-Jones wrote that the place was ‘now derelict.’ However, around this time the original Laurence Feeney’s grandson, likewise called Laurence, married and he and his wife Mary began to consider the possibility of restoring Ledwithstown. The couple, together with their children, initiated work on the house and in 1982 they were visited by Desmond Guinness. Soon afterwards the Irish Georgian Society offered its first grant to Ledwithstown, the money being put towards replacing the roof. Further financial aid from the IGS followed, along with voluntary work parties to help the Feeneys in their enterprise. By 1987 Ledwithstown had a new roof and parapet and was once more watertight. Inevitably sections of the reception rooms’ plaster panelling and other decoration had been lost to damp, but enough remained for it to be copied and replaced. The same was true of the main stair hall and sections of the first floor wood panelling, all of which was gradually replaced: when new floors were installed on this level in 1990 surviving panelled walls had to be suspended in mid-air to facilitate the removal of decayed boards. Ledwithstown demonstrates that even the most rundown building can be saved provided the task is approached with enough commitment. Today, more than thirty years after they embarked on their mission, the Feeneys remain happily living in what is, above all else, a family home. So too are both Gaulstown and Whitewood Lodge, making this another trait all three houses share.
In Parnell and His Island, originally published as a series of articles in Le Figaro in 1886, George Moore recalls an early morning duck shooting expedition on Lough Carra, County Mayo. He and his companion set off in the dark across the wind-tossed lake in a water-logged boat, landing before the remains of Castle Carra. Moore describes how, to escape the bitterly cold wind, the two men decide to take shelter in the building. ‘Dacre says he’ll be able to find the way, and after much scratching amid the bushes, and one cruel fall on the rocks, we reach some grass-grown steps and climb through an aperture into what was once probably the great hall. A high gable shows black and massy against the sky, and tall grass and weeds grow about our feet, and farther away the arching has fallen and forms a sort of pathway to the vault beneath. Centuries of ivy are on walls, and their surfaces are broken by wide fissures, vague and undistinguishable in the shadow and cold gloom. But as the moon brightens I see, some fifteen feet above me, a staircase – a secret staircase ascending through the enormous thickness of the walls. What were these strange ways used for? Who were they who trod them centuries ago? Slender women in clinging and trailing garments, bearded chieftains, their iron heels clanging; and as I evoke the past, rich fancies come to me, and the nostalgia of those distant days, strong days that were better and happier than ours, comes upon me swiftly, as a bitter poison pulsing in blood and brain; and regardless of my friend’s counsels, I climb towards the strange stairway, as I would pass backwards out of this fitful and febrile age to one bigger and healthier and simpler…’
Sited on a small peninsula on the eastern shores of Lough Carra, the castle here was built by the Anglo-Norman Adam de Staunton in the late 13th century. His descendants remained in possession of the property for the next 300 years, mixing with other local families and hibernising their surname to MacEvilly. In 1574 the castle’s owner was Moyler or Miles M’Evilly, but some time later the building and surrounding lands were acquired by Captain William Bowen, his possession confirmed by deed of feoffment dated November 1591 and made to him by Peter Barnewall, Baron Trimleston. How the latter came to have a claim on the place is unclear. Following Captain Bowen’s death without an heir in 1594, Carra Castle passed into the ownership of his elder brother Robert Bowen who lived in County Laois. He in turn gave it to his younger son Oliver Bowen, who occupied the castle until the outbreak of the Confederate Wars in 1641 when he fled to Wales, dying there without issue in 1654. After the restoration of Charles II in 1660, Castle Carra was granted to Sir Henry Lynch, third Baronet, a member of the well-known Galway family. His grandson, Sir Henry Lynch (fifth baronet) took up residence in the area, building a new residence close to the old castle which was then abandoned. A series of formal terraces led from this house down to the lakeshore. However, following Sir Henry’s death in 1764, his heir Robert Lynch moved to another property in County Mayo, originally called Moate but then renamed Athavallie near the town of Balla; today this building is a community school. Sir Robert had married Jane Barker, granddaughter and heiress of Tobias Blosse of Little Bolsted, Suffolk and assumed the additional surname of Blosse, the family thereafter being known as Lynch-Blosse. Meanwhile, both the old castle and the more recently constructed house at Carra were abandoned, the latter building being described as ‘almost in ruins’ in a report on the estate prepared by civil engineer and land surveyor Samuel Nicholson in 1844.
The core of Castle Carra dates from the time of Adam de Staunton in the late 13th century, although several alterations were subsequently made to the building. Measuring some 45 by 25 feet internally, and of three storeys with its entrance on the first floor of the south side, the roofless castle is an example of the mediaeval chamber-tower which typically comprised a rectangular block with large open spaces on the first-floor level. Later additions to the site include a plinth, bawn and gateway, these probably dating from the 15th century. Long neglected and in a relatively remote spot, an Irish Tourist Association survey undertaken in the early 1940s describes the castle as ‘difficult to locate without a guide’, and that remains the case to the present day.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 170. “(Godley, Kilbracken/, B/PB) A two storey late-Georgian house, with a principal front of eight bays. Pedimented breakfront, with three windows in lower storey, emphasised by plain pilasters, which are also used to emphasise the slightly projecting end bays. End windows of facade, in lower storey, set in shallow arched recesses. Projecting porch in adjoining front; courtyard at back. Largely gutted by a fire a few years ago; afterwards rebuilt, the architect of the rebuilding being Mr Austin Dunphy.”
Killegar, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Detached eight-bay two-storey country house, built in 1813, with basement level to rear elevation. Pitched slate roof with terracotta ridge tiles and ashlar chimneystacks. Two-bay pedimented breakfront to principal south-east-facing elevation with projecting end bays. Rendered walls with tooled stone string course to breakfront and end bays. Square-headed window openings with tooled limestone sills and timber sash windows, round-headed in blind arched openings in end bays. Derelict brick and cut stone entrance porch to north-east-facing side elevation with timber sash windows and timber panelled double door in flat-headed opening with decorative doorcase flanked by side lights. Round-headed door opening with timber and glazed door to garden elevation flanked by engaged Tuscan columns flanked by windows. Wrought-iron railings to basement. Plan altered c.1940 with the removal of two rooms. Fire in 1970 destroyed many of the principal rooms in the house. Pedimented multiple-bay two-storey outbuilding to cobbled yard. Limestone ashlar gate piers give access to rear yard.
Appraisal
Constructed to a Classical design, Killegar House is a fine country house. The building expresses noteworthy architectural motifs, including a pedimented breakfront, symmetrical fenestration and a Tuscan doorcase. Its split-levelled plan gives the house an unusual character, with its principal elevation now being accessed from the garden. Though damaged by fire and altered during recent decades, the house remains exemplary of early nineteenth-century demesne architecture. Located at the end of a long driveway, which winds through lakeland, Killegar House and its finely-executed, though ruinous, outbuildings are a significant part of County Leitrim’s architectural heritage.
Killegar, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.Killegar, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.Killegar, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.Killegar, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
From a distance Killegar, County Leitrim looks quite splendid. The house is approached via a long and densely wooded drive, with occasional glimpses through trees and meadow of a slender lake, Lough Kilnemar. Finally the approach enters more open ground dropping down to the left and offering views across the parkland to Killegar itself, a building of two storeys and eight bays, the centre pair forming a pedimented breakfront with handsome engaged Tuscan doorcase flanked by windows. The house faces south-east, a sequence of terraces descending to the lake’s glistening surface. One understands how John Kilbracken (who died almost eight years ago) could write in 1955, ‘It’s easy to love Killegar, as I realised more than ever when I came here for the first time after my father’s death. I can imagine selling it when I’m in Portofino, or Manhattan, or Paris (and imagine the villa, penthouse or atelier I’ll buy instead)…’ But he never did so, his love for the place overwhelming any urge to make money from it (thus proving him a most unlikely Irishman). But the consequences of passion combined with penury grow all too apparent the closer one draws to the house.
As seen today, the greater part of Killegar dates from c.1813, the same year the estate’s then-owner John Godley married Catherine Daly, a daughter of Denis Daly of Dunsandle, County Galway and his wife Lady Henrietta Maxwell (for more on Dunsandle and its lost interiors, see Dun and Dusted, December 9th 2013). But there was an older property on at least part of the site built around 1750 and incorporated into the new house. This takes advantage of the sloping site to have two storeys at the front but effectively only one at the rear where a courtyard was created. As so often, the architect is unknown and indeed one may not have been employed since Killegar’s design was always relatively simple. One curiosity is that the principal entrance, having initially been placed at the centre of the garden elevation, was subsequently moved to one side where a large pedimented porch was added. Thus visitors to the house stepped not into the main hall but into a rather narrow passage from whence they moved to the small drawing room. This was the first of an enfilade of rooms running the length of the main block. Above them were the bedrooms with a wonderful prospect of Lough Kilnemar (otherwise known as House Lake) although the view from the passage to the rear was of the service yard.
The Godleys were the latest in a succession of owners of the land on which Killegar stands. For centuries this part of the country was under the control of the O’Rourke clan, but as part of the plantation policy in the 17th century they were dispossessed and in 1640 Charles I granted a large parcel of some 2,784 Irish acres to the Scottish settler Sir James Craig: this territory subsequently became known as Craigstown. However further generations of Craigs did not manage their Irish estates well. They appear to have been prone to bickering, fell into debt and in 1734 were declared bankrupt. Craigstown was accordingly put up for sale and bought for £5626, eight shillings and four pence by a Dublin merchant Richard Morgan who had made his money in textiles. Richard Morgan’s only daughter, Mary married the Rev Dr William Godley, a landless clergyman who was rector of Mullabrack, Co Armagh and whose father had also been a Dublin merchant and alderman. The Godleys had arrived in Ireland at some date in the 17th century, probably from Yorkshire. Killegar came into their ownership because although the estate was left by Richard Morgan to his son (also called Richard), the latter despite two marriages only had a single daughter who died while in her teens. And his only brother, William, a pupil and disciple of John Wesley (and an early Methodist) died in Dublin at the age of 20. So on the death of Richard Morgan the younger in 1784 there were no direct male heirs. The estate ought then to have passed to Mary Morgan’s eldest son, John Godley, a lawyer. However, despite his background the will was disputed and was only settled after twenty-six years of litigation in 1810. By then John Godley had died and so it was his son, another John Godley, who took possession of Killegar. It was he, hitherto a city merchant, who married Catherine Daly and decided to build the present house.
In addition to the main house, John Godley built a church, school and school-teacher’s house at Killegar, together with the two gate-lodges and eight other cottages on the estate before dying in 1863 at the age of eighty-eight. By this date his eldest son, John Robert Godley, had already died. The latter is generally deemed the founder of the Canterbury region of New Zealand, settled in the mid-19th century as a colony following the beliefs of the Church of England. He served as leader of the settlement that became the city of Christchurch but then returned to England where he died two years before his father. Therefore in 1863 Killegar passed to the next generation, John Arthur Godley, then in his teens and at school. A few years after leaving Oxford, he served as Assistant Private Secretary to the Prime Minister William Gladstone and in 1880 was appointed Commissioner for Inland Revenue, a position he held for the next two years. In 1883 he became Under-Secretary of State at the India Office, remaining there until his retirement in 1909 when he was raised to the peerage as Baron Kilbracken of Killegar. But of course, a career as a senior civil servant in London meant he had little time to spend on his estate in Ireland. Killegar was instead given on a long lease first to his uncle Archibald Godley and then in turn on his death in 1907 responsibility for running the place passed to Archibald Godley’s only child Anna who lived until 1955. As a result, Arthur Godley’s son Hugh, second Lord Kilbracken, never spent much time at Killegar, only bringing his own family to Ireland for the first time in 1927.
The first Lord Kilbracken had been a Liberal and, perhaps as a result of having worked for Gladstone, was fully supportive of tenants’ rights to buy the land they farmed. Unlike the great majority of Irish landlords, he encouraged the sale of his estate with the result that even before the passing of the Wyndham Act of 1903, all but Killegar’s home farms had passed out of family ownership.
While certainly admirable, an obvious consequence of Lord Kilbracken’s action was that it left subsequent generations of Godleys with limited income from land: thus the second Lord Kilbracken qualified as a barrister and, like his father before him, spent the greater part of his professional life in London, with only holidays at Killegar. Although he moved into the main house on his retirement in 1943, it was already apparent there were insufficient resources to sustain the place and so at the time of his death in 1950 Killegar and the remaining 420 acres, was on the market with two identical offers made of £8,000.
At the time of his father’s death, John Godley, third Lord Kilbracken was travelling overland to New Zealand to take part in celebrations marking the centenary of the foundation of Christchurch. Initially he was prepared to go ahead with the sale of Killegar but by the time he reached Sydney, Australia he had come to the conclusion that the estate ought to remain in the family, and the following year he came back to Ireland determined to take over responsibility for the place. Clearly although he never regretted this decision, it had consequences he could not have foretold.
John Kilbracken, journalist and bon viveur, was throughout the course of his long and hectic life the very embodiment of the impoverished Irish peer possessed of big house and small income. A man of exceptional intelligence and charm, his various books are to be recommended, not least for their ability to make sundry travails sound highly entertaining. For example, in Living like a Lord (1955) he devotes a chapter to recounting the story of how he almost came to play the part of Ishmael in John Huston’s Moby Dick, parts of which were filmed in the County Cork port town of Youghal. Typically, as a result of having amused Huston one night over dinner, he found himself caught up in a six-month maelstrom of screen tests and costume fittings before eventually being relegated to the part of an extra carrying a live pig onto a vessel. However, owing to technical issues the scene had to be re-shot with someone else as pig carrier. Thus he never made the final cut, although he did work as a supplementary script writer, for which – naturally in his narrative – he received no screen credit.
But in relation to Killegar perhaps the greatest challenge he had to face occurred in 1970 when the house was gutted by fire. A rebuilding programme followed, testament to his devotion, but sadly many of the contents were forever lost. he struggled on and since his death in 2006 Killegar has been occupied by his second wife Sue and their son Seán. As the pictures above indicate, it remains as much a battle as ever to keep the house from falling into desolation. With little land (and proportionately little income) Killegar is now at a turning point in its fortunes, the last big house in County Leitrim to remain in the hands of the original family – but for how much longer? There comes a moment when the struggle becomes overwhelming with an outcome insufficient to justify the effort. One feels Killegar is nearing that moment. It is on the brink, from which there can be no return.
‘So there she is for you: beautiful Killegar, happy Killegar, funny tumbling-down Killegar, waiting to open her seductive arms to me.’ John Kilbracken, 1920-2006.
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 285. “(Wilmot-Chetwode/LGI1912) A two storey five bay late-Georgian house with a fanlighted doorway; extended at the back by a lower wing linking it to a three storey bow end block with a four story polytonal tower. Recently the house of Mr and Mrs Denis Quirke.”
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy National Inventory.
Detached five-bay two-storey late-Georgian house, built c.1820, with two-storey lower returns to rear. Double-pitched and hipped slate roofs with nap rendered chimneystack and profiled cast-iron rainwater goods with lion mask motifs. Nap rendered walls with ruled and lined detail, limestone plinth and sill/stringcourse to first floor. Square-headed window openings, set into recessed arches to ground floor level, with limestone sills and three-over-six and six-over-six timber sash windows. Diastyle Doric portico to entrance with timber door and wrought-iron fanlight over. Timber panelled internal shutters to window openings; vaulted ceiling to porch with coffers having plaster centrepieces. House set back from road in own grounds; landscaped lawns to site; gravel drive and forecourt to approach; sandstone step to entrance. Group of detached rubble stone outbuildings to site. Detached gate lodge to site (12800404).
Detached gable-fronted gate lodge, built c.1880. Double-pitched slate roof with decorative red clay ridge tiles and limestone ashlar chimneystack on a hexagonal plan. Nap rendered rendered walls, painted, with limestone ashlar pediment to gable. Square-headed window openings with limestone sills and timber casement windows. Timber door. Interior not inspected. Gatelodge set back from road in grounds shared with main house at right angles to road; landscaped lawns surround lodge; gravel drive to front. Gateway to site comprising group of limestone ashlar piers with flanking walls having round-headed recessed niches and wrought iron gates and railings.
Woodbrook, County Laois courtesy National Inventory.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
I’VE said it before and I’ll say it again. Some homes are born great while still others have greatness thrust upon them. In the case of Woodbrook House in Portarlington, however, it happens to be both.
I mean, check out the history on this one for a start. The Woodbrook Estate came into being on the marriage of Knightly Chetwood (do you think he was bullied?) to Hester Brooking at St Michans Church in Dublin in 1698.
By 1713, Knightly, now doubtless Knightrider, befriended Jonathan Swift and a long friendship began. In fact, Swift travelled to Woodbrook frequently, and used it as his weekend retreat where the bulk of ‘Gulliver’s Travels’ was written in the library.
To think that Swift, like all men with ideas above their Luas station, spent many an hour musing on the little people in this very room. Sure don’t we all.
Not content with being born great, Woodbrook House then began to have greatness thrust upon it in the form of extensive and sympathetic restoration, most of which has occurred in the last three years.
This home is now back to its 18th century glory with a bang. In fact a wing from this century, complete with a four storey tower that was banjaxed in the 1970s (weren’t we all) has now been reinstated.
The restoration has been massive and systematic. All roofs have been replaced using 18th century slate where required, timber sash windows, rewiring, oil fired heating system, new plumbing and sewage system, broadband, alarms – you name it, it’s been done.
My favourite is the Canadian hot tub on the tower roof terrace – the perfect place from which to ponder awhile about those that have less.
With a reception hall, stair hall, six reception rooms, orangerie, a master bedroom suite with twelve further bedroom suites and a selection of offices and stores on offer, it is difficult to see who wouldn’t want to buy this home.
Whether thinking of a commercial or private use or both, quite frankly, Woodbrook House is simply the best. Carpe diem.
For further information contact Savills Hamilton Osborne King 01 663 4350 or visit www.savills.ie
Probably where Swift wrote part of Gulliver’s Travels
Woodbrook since the rebuilding by Ray Simmons. Image Courtesy ofJJ Dunne NBD PhotographyAs it was in 1980
In 1918 Walter Strickland wrote an article on Woodbrook in the Journal of the County Kildare Archaeological Society , Vol. IX., which is available as a download at the end of this article. As he had access to the Chetwood papers, his account is unlikely to be ever bettered. In summary Knightley Chetwood acquired the lands that had belonged to his wife’s family on his marriage to Hester Brooking in at St Michan’s Church in 1698 (something that he appears to have overlooked when they separated later in life). There was probably an existing building on the site as he was writing from Woodbrook in 1712. By 1715 he had engaged builders and was consulting his father-in-law’s friend Jonathan Swift about the gardens. He had the usual problems that anyone has when building a house, such as when the brick layer, John Mulloy, disappeared with the property of other tradesmen on the site. It is hard to make sense of the drawing reproduced in the Kildare Archaeological Society of the 18th century house. There is a very grand neo-classical doorway, perhaps taken from one of the seven architects’ designs (including one by James Gandon) that Valentine Knightley Chetwood commissioned pre 1771 that were not executed due to Valentine’s death that year – it has a slight resemblance to Gandon’s design for the entrance to the Rotunda. That door is said to be where the 5 storey tower is in the later building. In Colum O’Riordan’s House and Home, describing the Chetwood drawings at the Irish Architectural Archive, he describes the ground floor survey of 1770 as showing “a warren – a vaguely L shaped building with an indeterminate number of accretions around an older core”
A drawing of the pre 1815 house that was reproduced in the Kildare Arch. Journal in 1918
In the late 1790s or early 1800s part of Woodbrook was destroyed by fire. Jonathan Chetwood, working with the architect James Shiel, rebuilt it about 1816, building the present entrance and hall, the dining-room and drawing-room, and changed the entrance from its former position facing the lake. The library and range of rooms beyond, including the great kitchen, part of the old house, remained though portions of the upper part were afterwards altered by Edward Wilmot Chetwood and his successors, who also added the tower on the side facing the lake, near where the old entrance had been. Elizabeth Hester Chetwood, granddaughter of Crewe Chetwood, (a younger brother of Valentine Knightley Chetwood of Woodbrook), married Robert Rogers Wilmot and had a son Edward Wilmot who took the name Chetwood in 1839 when he inherited Woodbrook.
The old kitchen was a large room with an arched fire-place at one end, and at the opposite end a great dresser filling the whole wall. On the top of this dresser are painted these lines : BE CLEANLY. HAVE TASTE. HAVE PLENTY. NO WASTE.
The west wing kitchen at Castletown House, Kildare – the quote from Matthew is Conolly’s response to the servants’ imprecation on the opposite wall “Give Us This Day Our Daily Bread”The Galleried Kitchen at Strokestown House
The gallery which ran around the side was put up in 1858 by Lady Janet Wilmot Chetwood, in order, it is said, that she might be able to visit and superintend her kitchen without going down stairs and along the passage leading to it. In the 1940s the poet John Betjeman stayed often and fell in love with the house, and its galleried kitchen (from which the mistress could drop the menu of the day to the cook below).
Jane(tta) Erskine had married Edward Wilmot-Chetwode in 1830, the year after her father John Thomas Erskine, 25th/8th Earl of Mar had OD’ed on opium. The fifteen 1840 murals, which had been attributed to Edwin Hayes, were commissioned for her to remind her of Scotland. Hayes, now known as a great marine artist, was also a noted set painter and created highland castle murals. There are very similar murals by Hayes at Manor Kilbride in Wicklow (which was designed by Cobden for George Ogle Moore circa 1843). However the estate agents marketing the house in 2022, Conway Estates, state recent research proved them to be the work of Scottish artist David Ramsay Hay . It is one of 3 complete rooms of his work known to survive the others being 73 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 and the staircase hall at Preston Hall in Scotland .
Murals by Hayes at Manor Kilbride, Wicklow
There was a vaulted room beneath the study, accessed through a trapdoor. This is where the historic correspondence with the Duke of Marlborough, the Duke of Chandos, Swift and others was stored in trunk. Fortunately the Swift letters had been transcribed in 1856 for Swift’s biography. The rest were destroyed by damp.
The Land Commission took over the 250 acre estate from the 100 year old Gladys Chetwood- Aiken in 1965 “The richly planted and picturesque lawns” described in Thomas Lacy’s 1863 “Sights of Our Fatherland” rapidly disappeared beneath the subsistence farming dictums and dictates of Oliver J and Dev. In 1969 Oliver J had the sale of 300 excellent ash beech and elm trees and 6 tons of cut beech at Woodbrook Demesne.
Denis Quirke, who had already devastated the demesne of Bert House with his notions of prairie stud farming, bought the house and 100 acres, and cleared even more of the tree and hedges, destroying the largest heronry in Ireland. The Quirkes sold in 1976, and Denis Quirke died soon afterwards.
The 1840 OS map vs an aerial view of 2000
In the 1970s the devastated demesne featured in an IGS exhibition in Portlaoise called “Open Your Eyes”. Few did. The new owners were an absolute disaster area, whose idea of restoration was to demolish pretty much everything apart from Shiel’s 1816 villa – the great kitchen and all the original 1700s building were turned into rubble. Such dumb dolts and blockheads should be confined to spaces where they can’t do too much damage. The truncated house was bought by Jim and Brenadette Robson who offered elegant country house accommodation to tourists, long before Ireland’s Ancient East was fashionable.
The emasculated building in the 1990sThe 1816 vaulted front hall with its inlaid floor, probably of oak, photographed in the 1990s
The historian and photographer Robert Vance viewed Woodbrook “Many moons ago” He writes “The OS showed woods and an ornamental lake within the acreage to be sold. On arrival I saw the woods were clear-cut and the roots had been used to fill in the lake. The parkland was now overgrown with rushes. The farmer pointed out the stump of a walnut tree he had cut. It had been planted by Jonathan Swift 250 years previously. The early buildings, servants’ wing and stables were left as a vast pile of brick, rubble and nettles behind the house.”
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The very shook remains struggled on and it was for sale again in 1990 for £200,000 and then again in 1998, for €550,000
The current owner, Ray Simmons, has rebuilt a replica of the demolished part of the house and planted trees.
An impressive and substantial late Georgian house comprising 2 and 3 storeys privately set within its own lands . Extensive any sympathic restoration over the last number of years included the rebuilding of a mid 18th century wing complete with 4 storey tower and undertook much of the structural repairs necessary but repairs in some parts of the residence are incomplete.
Woodbrook House represents an opportunity for a potential purchaser to complete and decorate the house to their liking and perhaps would consider a commercial use subject to the necessary planning consents . Approx. 39 ha / 98 acres with the laid out to pasture and tillage interspersed with maturing parkland trees.
About 1,398 square meters/ 15,078 square feet comprising in brief : reception hall, stair hall, 6 reception rooms, kitchen, Orangerie, Master Bedroom Suite, 12 further bedroom suites, a number of offices and stores. Gate Lodge ( 1 bedroom ), large selection of stone outbuildings and yards and two walled gardens. •
Portarlington 4km • Emo 7.5km • Portlaoise 16km • Kildare 14km • Dublin 80km • Dublin Airport 60-minute drive • The Heritage Killenard Hotel & Golf Club 5 minute drive • Ballyfin House 25 minute drive • The K- Club 50 minute drive • The Curragh Racecourse 25 minute drive • Punchestown Racecourse 45 minute drive (times approximate)
History The Woodbrook Estate came in to being on the marriage of Knightly Cherwood to Hester Brooking at St. Michael’s Church Dublin in 1698 . Hester brought 620 acres of land and Tinakill Castle with her as a dowry and in 1700 the couple set upon building a residence there . A letter dating as early as 1712 describes “the continued building works and improvements” to the property. In 1713 Cherwwod befriended Jonathan Swift when the latter returned to Ireland as Dean of St. Patrick’s. A long friendship and correspondence ensued . Swift travelled frequently to Woodbrook, using it has his weekend retreat , and it is here in the library he penned much of Gullivers Travels. Unfortunately, as with many of Swifts friendships, he and Cherwood had a falling out and spent their latter years not speaking to each other. On February 17th 1752 , Chetwood died in London.
His son Valentine, who in 1758 was High Sherrif of Co. Laois , succeeded him. He in turn passes away in 1771 and was succeeded by his son Jonathan . The family continued to reside on the estate until 1963 until the blood line ran out .
The original house was a modest 2 storey property comprising drawing room, ding room, library and 4 bedrooms, but like many Irish country houses embellished as family circumstances allowed.
Entrance Hall; with ornate domed ceiling. Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Entrance Hall; with ornate domed ceiling, Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
In 1750 a grander 3 storey wing was added incorporating a 4 storey tower.
A fire in 1790 saw the demise of the drawing room but cleared the way for the now existing Regency wing.
The drawing room houses a collection of wall paintings depicting scenes of Scottish Castles, created to remind the new Mrs. Cherwood, a daughter of the Earl of Mann and descendant of the Kings of Scotland, of her homeland. The paintings, executed in the style of Watteau, remain intact to day and have only recently been proved to be the work of Scottish artist David Ramsay Hay. It is one of 3 complete rooms of his work known to survive the others being 73 Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 and the staircase hall at Preston Hall in Scotland.
Drawing room: with original grey marble fireplace. Suite of oil paintings by David Ramsy Hay depicting scenes of Scotland . Wired for phone , smoke alarm and music.
Suite of oil paintings by David Ramsy Hay depicting scenes of Scotland, Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Dining Room ; with original Kilkenny marble fireplace. Silver cupboard. Wired for phone. Smoke alarm, music and service bell to kitchen .
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Staircase Hall: with ornate ceiling and decorative arched window .
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Library: with original fitted bookcases including a “secret door “ and original Kilkenny marble fireplace. Wired for phone, smoke alarm. Music and tv Breakfast Room; with original Kilkenny marble fireplace. Wired for phone, smoke alarm and music.
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King..Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Kitchen: with full range of bespoke cupboards and granite counter tops . Full range of integrated appliances including two oven Aga, 4 electric ovens, twin microwaves, twin dishwashers, 5 ring gas hob, twin 6ft refrigerators. Trapdoor to vaulted 17th Century cellar . Wires for phone, smoke alarm and music. Galleried Hall: over lit by ornate dome. Grey a marble fireplace . Wired for phone, smoke alarm and music. Billiard Room : with fireplace . Wired for phone, smoke alarm and music. Study : Anteroom with fireplace leading to octagonal study . Wired for phone, smoke alarm and music. Orangerie : with double glazed pvc roof . 4 pairs of timber double doors with fanlights opening to south facing garden. Master suite with fireplace . Wired for phone, smoke alarm, tv and security lights on the grounds. Leading to dressing room and master bath plumbed for bath separate shower, wc, twin whb, twin heated towel rails. 12 further bedrooms all with bathrooms ensuite . Smoke alarm and phone. All ensuites plumbed for bath/shower, wc, whb and heated towel rail . A selection of offices and store rooms including strong room. Gardens and grounds At the entrance to the estate there is a Gate Lodge with a kitchen, living room, shower room and mezzanine bedroom . Extensive yards behind the house comprise a large range of stone outbuildings in varying repair, some benefit ting being re roofed in natural slate. Immediately beyond these yards lie 2 walled gardens. The lands are laid out to pasture and in crop and benefit from extensive tree planting (c 1,000) throughout the estate including a very impressive avenue of Lime trees and planting to reestablish the parkland lost in the 1970’s. Also filled in around this time was a large lake in the field off to the right of the avenue and north and east of the house which could possibly be reinstated . Fixtures & Fittings A full inventory is available on request and separate negotiation. Title Freehold Title Protected Status Woodbrook House is a listed protected structure .
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
Synopsis of restoration work to date Extensive and sympathetic restoration has been undertaken in the last number of years to restore the property to its former 18th Century glory and reinstate the 18th Century wing complete with 4 storey tower that was lost in the 1970’s . Great effort has been taken when restoring , rebuilding or replacing to use materials sympathetic to the original craftmanship of the house . The schedule of works to date to the main house include ; restoration and replacement of all roofs using reclaimed 18th Century slate where required: replacement of all windows with traditional timber sash windows, reinstating the original hand spun 18th Century glass where possible and taking the opportunity to install a “Ventrolla” draught exclusion system to all windows .
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
The current owner undertook much of the structural repairs necessary but repairs are incomplete; complete rewiring with 5 separate zones ; installation of new gas fired heating system with 5 separate zones; insulation of new plumbing with 2.5 bar pressure to power showers to all bedroom suites; installation of a new well with all bathing water passing through a water softener system; installation of a “Puraflow” sewage treatment system with superfluous capacity fro present accommodation, i.e. could potentially take accommodate extension/conversion of outbuildings subject to the necessary consents; new insulation and fireproofing throughout, wired for high specification integrated fire alarm system; wired for 3 phone lines wireless broadband, and Phonewatch, fittings throughout and the replacement of all gutters and down pipes .
Features
*An impressive and substantial Late Georgian House. *Approximately 39 Hectares (98 Acres) . *Vendor would consider splitting the Estate in two Lots . *Lot 1 – Woodbrook House, Gate Lodge on approx. 10 Acres . *Lot 2 -Approx. 89 Acres of Land .
BER Details
BER: Exempt
Woodbrook, Portarlington, County Laois courtesy Savills Hamilton Osborne King.
The name Woodbrook has been given to a number of houses in different parts of Ireland, and the natural assumption would be that it derives from the property having once had a brook in woodland. In the case of Woodbrook, County Laois, however, it combines the second syllable of original owner Knightley Chetwood’s surname along with the first syllable of that of his wife Hester Brooking: hence Woodbrook. An article written by Walter Strickland and published in the Journal of the Archaeological Society of the County of Kildare in 1918 provides a detailed account of the origins of the Chetwood family and their arrival in Ireland following the restoration of Charles II in 1660. There is some uncertainty as to how Knightly Chetwood, whose family had been impoverished English gentry, managed to acquire the lands in County Laois on which Woodbrook now stands: Strickland proposes that it may have come to him via his spouse, but without being able to say precisely how this should have been the case. In any case, some years after the couple’s marriage in August 1700, despite living contentedly in County Meath, he embarked on a project to build a residence on his midland’s property, albeit with some reluctance: at one stage he implored a friend to find him another house in Meath, since otherwise he would be condemned to ‘go and live in a bog in a far off country.’ Indeed, being as Strickland says ‘an uncompromising Tory,’ following the accession of George I in 1714, Chetwood found it best to live, if not in a bog then certainly in a far-off country, spending a number of years in mainland Europe before returning to Ireland around 1721 when he took an oath of allegiance to the Hanoverian monarch and abjured the Stuart pretender. It may have only been after this time that serious work commenced on the house at Woodbrook.
We know more about the early development of the Woodbrook estate than would usually be the case thanks to surviving correspondence between Knightley Chetwood and Dean Swift, who not only provided its proprietor with advice but visited the place on a number of occasions. There was likely some kind of residence already on the site, not least because Chetwood was able to write letters from there even before his new house had been built. Strickland cites a note from Swift to his host dated 6th November 1714 and composed when he had arrived at Woodbrook to find the Chetwoods away from home. The following month, after the dean’s departure, Chetwood informed him, ‘This place I hate since you left it.’ Swift is believed to have been responsible for planting a grove of beech trees close to the house, although these were cut down in 1917 for sale to the then-Government. The two men also make regular reference to an area of the estate called the ‘Dean’s field.’ Once Chetwood returned from his self-imposed exile and turned his attention to erecting a new house, Swift’s opinion was again sought, the dean recommending in June 1731, ‘I can only advise you to ask advice, to go on slowly and to have your house on paper before you put it into lime and stone.’ Unfortunately, it was around this time that the friendship of almost twenty years came to an end. Chetwood seems to have had a tricky, volatile character. He had already become estranged from his wife, husband and wife formally separating in 1725, and he was inclined to find himself embroiled in rows on a regular basis: that he and Swift should fall out accordingly seems to have been inevitable. Chetwood died in London in 1752 and Woodbrook then passed to his elder surviving son, Valentine but since he spent most of his life out of Ireland, it was the younger son Crewe Chetwood who stayed in Laois. The next generation, Jonathan Cope Chetwood, did live at Woodbrook from the time he inherited the property in 1771 until his own death in 1839. As he had no immediate heir, the estate went sideways passing to Edward Wilmost, a great-grandson of Crewe Chetwood, who duly took the additional surname of Chetwood. However, following the death during the Boer War of Edward Wilmot-Chetwood, Woodbrook passed to another branch of the family, being inherited by Major Harold Chetwood-Aiken; his widow lived there until 1965 when what remained of the estate was taken over by the Land Commission.
The evolution of the house now standing at Woodbrook is complex, even by Irish standards. The original building commissioned by Knightley Chetwood can be seen in a pencil drawing reproduced in Strickland’s 1918 article and shows the long east-facing entrance front, seemingly single-storey but with two-storeys visible to one side and dominated by a great doorcase beneath a steeply-pitched roof. A 1770 ground floor survey is described by Colum O’Riordan in House and Home as depicting ‘a vaguely L shaped building with an indeterminate number of accretions around an older core.’ Much of this structure appears to have been damaged or destroyed in a fire in the early 19th century, after which Jonathan Cope Chetwood undertook extensive alterations to the house, not least the addition of a new neo-classical entrance front facing south. Designed c.1815 by James Shiel, it included a spacious hall off which opened drawing and dining rooms. The older part of the building contained the library and staircase, and, beyond these, service quarters including a double-height kitchen one wall of which was filled with a great dresser and above which, according to Strickland, were painted the words ‘BE CLEANLY. HAVE TASTE. HAVE PLENTY. NO WASTE.’ Later in the 19th century, further changes took place, not least in the drawing room where the walls were covered with 15 murals representing scenes of the Scottish Highlands: still extant (although some are currently undergoing restoration), they were painted in 1840 by artist David Ramsay Hay, commissioned by Lady Jane Erskine, daughter of the 25th/8th Earl of Mar and wife of Edward Wilmot-Chetwood, as reminders of her native country. At some unknown date, a five-storey polygonal tower was added towards the rear of the house on the east side. Alas, the later decades of the last century were not kind to Woodbrook. All the ancient trees, not least those lining the avenue to the house, were all cut down in 1969. The lake to the immediate east, created by Jonathan Cole Chetwood, also suffered devastation causing the loss of what was said to have been the largest heronry in the country. Then, in the 1970s, the owners of the house demolished almost all of what had stood behind Shiel’s early 19th century extension, everything that had remained from the original building constructed by Knightley Chetwood, along with the great kitchen and the polygonal tower. This strangely truncated property somehow survived until the present century when another owner ambitiously reconstructed the sections that had been reduced to rubble just a few decades earlier. In consequence, at least on the exterior, Woodbrook looks much as it did when still occupied by the last members of the Chetwood family. Just under two years ago, the house and surrounding lands changed hands once more, and the current owners have embarked on an ambitious and admirable programme of restoration and restitution, with thousands of trees being planted, the lake being brought back to life and the surrounding lands improved. Similar considerate work is taking place inside the building so that in due course Woodbrook will once again take its place among County Laois’s finest country houses. It’s always thrilling to visit a property which is undergoing renewal, and the owners of Woodbrook deserve all the applause and support they can get.
After Monday’s post about the main house at Woodbrook, County Laois, here are the the south gate lodge and gate screen into the estate. The lodge itself is a curious structure which may, or may not, have been designed by James Shiel at the same time as he was coming up with proposals for the house. The facade is dominated by an substantial ashlar pediment with window beneath, the latter flanked by deep recesses, one of which has a door into the building. So generous are the recesses that the pediment has to be supported by a pair of slender iron columns. The gate screen itself, of limestone ashlar and wrought iron, is more standardised with its piers, quadrant walls and arched niches in the outer sections. Here also is an old milestone advising that Dublin lies 47 miles distant.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 96. “(Prior-PalmerLGI1958) A three storey house of 1770 which from both elevation and plan would appear to have been built about thirty years earlier. Front of two bays on either side of a centre consisting of rusticated pedimented and fanlighted doorcase flanked by two small windows below a window flanked by two niches, below a window flanked by two blank windows. Good string courses and quoins. Shouldered doors with triple keystones set into arched recesses in hall. Staircase at back of hall rising to top of house.”
plus supplement:
“The house was built by the great orator and statement Henry Grattan in his younger days as a speculation, one of several which he built. It derives its name from the fact that the land on which it stands originally belonged to the Cuffes, though as it happens, in C19, it was bought by an auctioneer named Cuffe. The house is now owned by Mr. John Colclough and his brother, who are restoring it.”
From O’Hanlon – In 1653 Morgan Cashin and Thomas Hovenden forfeited, respectively, Ballygaudenbeg and Ballygaudenmore. The former is now Ballygooden; the latter is Cuffesboro’ (this is located around Aghaboe, County Laois) which is so named from its Cromwellian grantee, Captain Joseph Cuffe
The de Vesci papers in the NLI contain (MS 38,748/5 1673: 1678: 1681) Declaration of trust by Denny Muschamp concerning the County Laois estate of Joseph Cuffe of Castleinch, County Kilkenny [document damaged],
1697 Draft bonds of indemnity whereby Denny Muschamp and the Rev. Maurice Cuffe of Bonnystown (Bonnetstown?), County Kilkenny, indemnify the Bishop of Leighlin against the cost of any legal proceedings which may arise as a result of Muschamp’s presentation of Cuffe to the living of Clonkeen in opposition to the present incumbent, the Rev. John Shaw (see MS 38,798), and the Bishop of Ossory against the cost of any legal proceedings which may arise from Muschamp’s presentation of Cuffe to the living of Rosconnell and Durrow.
The Rev Maurice Cuffe was born in 1656 in Castle Inch in Kilkenny, one of the 21 children of Joseph Cuffe and Martha Muschamp. In about 1695 he married Jane Frend of Caherconlish, Co Limerick, and they had 8 children. He is described as of Abbeyleix in 1724 Memorial extract — Registry of Deeds Index Project Memorial No: 30212. But in Memorial No: 32263 (leases of lands of Boheraid to the Abrahams, Leech, Child, Honur & Edwards families) 25 Jan 1722 both Joseph jnr and Maurice are of Ballygowdan. Memorial No: 239238 24 Nov 1746 Joseph is of Ballygowdan (presumably Cuffesborough). In 1749 Joseph Cuffe was High Sherrif of Queens County. The following year Aug 1747 Anne Wheeler, step daughter of Joseph Cuffe of Cuffesborough was married (Ossory marriage bonds). Joseph’s wife was Martha Baker of Lismacue, Co Tipperary, whose first husband’s brother, Jonah Wheeler, was married to Maurice Cuffe’s daughter Elizabeth.
Joseph and Martha had 3 sons and 4 daughters. The daughter Jane married her cousin John Frend in 1756. Denny married in 1756, two years before his father Joseph Cuffe died at Grove, Queens County (possibly on the Carlow border).
This leaves a question about the 1770 date stone. Cuffsborough does have a date stone beside the front door of 1770, which is odd. The stonework clearly shows that it can’t have been inserted, but we know that Denny Cuffe was living there in the 1747, and probably before that, and that when he married Anne Cuffe in 1756 he came into money. Stylistically the house is more 1750s, and there is no obvious site of an earlier house. All very strange.
Taylor & Skinner’s Road Map of 1778, showing Cuffe at both Ballygeehan & Cuffsborough.
One of the earliest printed references to Cuffesborough is in Richard Pococke’s tour of Ireland. On 29th June 1753 I went by Gortineclea and going on southward passed by Cuffsborough, Mr. Cuf’s, where I observed Trochi and Entrochi in the lime stone which lies loose in the earth all over this country; and at Donoghmore, Mr. Morris, they have great quarries of this stone, which is a coarse black marble, but not used because the Kilkenny is much better
Castle Blunden where Anne Cuffe’s cousin lived
‘The said Denny (Baker Cuffe) married as his second wife, Anne; daughter of (Maurice) Cuffe of Freshford’ (Lodge, John: The Peerage of Ireland (1789) p. 61 in 1766 (Gaughan 143 – Genealogy of the Knights of Glin drawn up by Brian Fitzelle) In fact Lodge has the wrong Denny (of Sandhill) and the wrong year – vide Pue’s Occurences for 24 Feb 1756; It also seems that it was Denny’s first marriage.
Anne, baptized 26 February 1720 and married in March 1740 to Edmond Fitz-Gerald, Esq. Knight of the Glyn (who died February 19th, 1773) In a deed of September 1750, Edmond is referred to as unmarried., so a search of the Acts of Parliament might come up with their divorce in the 1740s.
She married Denny Cuffe in Feb 1756 at the age of 36 – quite late to be having children, so maybe Denny had indeed had his children by an earlier wife. She died 20 years later in October 1776 and is buried in Abbeyleix Old Churchyard, not beneath the tree in front of Cuffesbro as legend maintains. The person buried beneath the tree is probably Denny’s mother.
from http://www.askaboutireland.ie/
And now another woman of mystery enters the history of Glin in the form of Anne (‘Nancy’) Cuffe, who becomes for a short time, wife to Edmond, Knight of Glin. Anne (born February 1721)(110) was the second of seven daughters of Maurice Cuffe of St. Albans, otherwise Killaghy, Co. Kilkenny by his first wife Martha, daughter of John Fitzgerald of Ballymaloe, Co. Cork. (111) Maurice was a brother of the 1st Lord Desart and a M.P. and K.C. Anne who has been described as ‘a popular Protestant beauty from Kilkenny’ married the still Catholic Knight of Glin in March 1740. (112) In a letter written sometime after the marriage, by her cousin Lady Theodosia Crosbie to her sister, Lady Mary Tighe (nee Bligh) we read: ‘if Nancy (Anne) is married to the Knight of the Glin as they say, she (Anne’s mother) has disposed of ’em (Anne and her sisters) all very well.’ (113) For some reasons unknown (Edmonds’ mounting debts, perhaps) this marriage was a failure. They went their separate ways thereafter. Edmond vainly tried to regain possession of Glin after Richard’s conversion when he too, turned Protestant in October 1741. (114)
Anne was also the cousin of Lucy Susanna Cuffe who married Sir John Blunden in 1755. Castle Blunden (which has Bindonesque influences) must have been the inspiration for Cuffesboro. It is interesting to note that Francis Bindon 1690 – 1765 designed the wings for her uncle, The Earl of Desart’s house at Desart Court in about 1744. The brother of Denny’s mother’s first husband, Jonah Wheeler of Lyrath, was married to Elizabeth Cuffe, another of Anne’s cousins, so his step-uncle was his wife’s cousin – the constant intermarriages make genealogical research deeply confusing!
Things were wild enough in those days. In 1776 Jan. 10. The Derby Mercury reported that Last Friday Night a small Party of White Boys assembled between Ballycolla and Cuffborough, in the Queen’s County; from whence they proceeded to a Place near Caftletown, where one William Phelan lived.
Between 1777 and 1782 Jonah Barrington writes that he visited Denny Cuffe –
In 1780, four years after Anne Cuffe’s death, Denny married Anne O’Ryan in Dublin. On 20 Dec 1783 Denny Baker Cuffe sold to Henry Grattan Ballygeehin, Ballygowdan, & Bordwell in Upper Ossory, baronies of Clarmallagh, Clandonagh, and Upperwoods, In 1790 Denny died at Sweet Lodge in Kilkenny ( Index to the prerogative wills of Ireland, 1536-1810) and two years later the “amiable widow Cuffe” married Chevalier Thomas O’Gorman of Inchiquin, Co Clare.
Born in Castletown, County Clare, the son of Patrick O’Gorman, the Chevalier’s first language was Irish. He was educated as a Medical Doctor at the Irish College, Paris. He served with the Irish Brigade in the French army, and was created Chevalier by Louis XV. O’Gorman married a daughter of Count d’Eon, and from him inherited vast vineyards, lost in the French Revolution. After this, he retired to Ireland, where he pursued his antiquarian studies; from about 1764 he had corresponded with Charles O’Conor, and had made an impressive collection of Irish manuscripts. He also compiled pedigrees of Irish expatriates, and personally arranged for the Book of Ballymote to be given by the Irish College to the Royal Irish Academy in Dublin. He died in 1809
Prior to his father’s death John Cuffe, who married Sibella Barrington, sister of Sir Jonah Barrington, in May 1783, seems to have had various financial woes and died at Raheen in 1804. His son William however did very well, marrying the Earl of Harborough’s daughter.
One wonders if there might be some truth in the story from Dundee Evening Telegraph 28 Nov 1906 On 24 Feb 1784 The Dublin Evening Post Dublin advertised:- QUEEN’S COUNTY. TO be LET from the 25th day of March next, for three lives, or thirty-one years, the house and lands of CUFFSBOROUGH, including about 291 acres of excellent Land, situate in the barony of Ossory, and Queen’s county. Application in writing will be received by The Rt Hon Henry Grattan, Dublin
Settlement Grattan Papers of 5 Nov 1789 refers to :- Ballygihin, Crowville, Garranbehy, Ballygran, Cloghquilmore, Cloghquilbegg, Coulfin, Ballyogena, Knocktan bane, Ballygowdownbegg, Clanreagh, Carigin, Bordwell, Ballygowdownmore, Bogherard, Chapel-hill, Dairy-hill, Feragh, Rathdowney, Springfield, Croul and Cuffesborough, all in the Barony of Upper Ossory, Queen’s County. Rental attached.
Cuffsborough 1988
The Prior Palmers at Cuffesborough 1784 – 1870
We don’t at present know where Joseph and Martha Palmer were living, but by 1784 Joseph was 55 and they had 11 children. The eldest, Humphrey, was 27. The youngest, Joseph, was 9. It is fairly probable that Col F Palmer of the Rathdowney Volunteers who attended the National Convention of 1772 was the same as Col Joseph Palmer who attended the National Convention in 1783. Saunders Newsletter of Oct 8 1779 reports on “a few miles from said town, the Rathdowney Rangers, under the command of John Prior, Esq; and the Rathdowney Independent Volunteers, under the command Joseph Palmer.
There were other Volunteer regiments in the area including The Castle Durrow Light Horse, The Castle Durrow Volunteers, the Ossory True Blues, The Aghavoe Loyals, The Borris in Ossery Rangers and the Rathdowney Carboneers, – 31 July 1784 This Day was published, by W. WATSON, No. 7, Capel Street, THE PATRIOT SOLDIER a Poem. By John Edwards, Efq; Major of the Rathdowney Carbineers;
Sarah Palmer, who would have been 25, may have already been married to Thomas White, of Ballybrophy, a cousin of the Whites of Aghaboe. They lived at Garryduff, on The Heath just outside Portlaoise
Lydia Palmer married Henry Brooke June 28, 1788 in St. Pauls, Dublin, and Catherine Palmer had eloped to Portpatrick in Scotland with Thomas Prior also in 1788. This was of course a significant alliance of all his children as it lead to the Murray Prior family. Thomas was the great grandson of Thomas Prior of Rathdowney who founded the RDS . Thomas and Catherine’s son Thomas Prior was a lieutenant in the Drogheda Light Horse (18th Hussars) at the Battle of Waterloo. He retired on half pay in 1817 after three years of army service.
Humphrey, Charles, Hannah & Paul may not have married, though there is a Portpatrick entry for Humphry Palmer Esqr. of Rathdowny and Miss Frances Maria Palmer of Rathdowny both from the Queen’s County. Paul Palmer a witness, 12 October 1789
On 13 Oct 1791 Francis Palmer of Cuffesborough married James Canter of Ballyvara in the suburbs of Limerick, who may have been an attorney.
On 10 Aug 1796 Rebecca Palmer of Aghaboe married a barrister Samuel Patrick Dickson, almost certainly a son of Samuel Dickson of Ballynaguile, Co Limerick
Joseph Palmer married Maria Sowdon in 1802
Thomas Spunner Palmer m Elizabeth Ormsby otherwise Dodwell of Ballyvenoge in Limerick in 1802, from whom the present Prior-Palmer family are descended.
So by 1802 the 73 year old Joseph Palmer was down to probably about 4 children left at home.
Joseph Palmer was leasing land at Cuffsborough with his son Humphrey in 1793
The next reference to the house is in The Post Chaise Companion 1804
Near five miles from Durrow, on the L. is Cuffsborough, the seat of John Palmer, Esq. At Aghaboe, on the R. is the seat of the Rev. Edward Ledwich, near the church.
The 1814 A Statistical Account, Or Parochial Survey of Ireland states:-
There are no modern, public, or private buildings, deserving a particular description. This will not be wondered at, when we know that not one landed proprietor resides in the parish ; nor is there a house in it, which a man of large fortune would inhabit. There are some plain comfortable houses, as Mr. Robert White’s, at Aghaboe; Mr. Joseph Palmer’s, at Cuffsborough; the late Mr. Drought’s, at Oldglas; Mr.Charles White’s, at Borros Castle ; the late Mr. Carden’s, at Lismore; Mr. Charles White’s, at Ballybrophy, with many snug farm-houses.
Joseph Palmer died at the age of 87 in 1816 (Gentleman’s Magazine p 572) and Sarah followed for years later.
There were instantly family rows – where there’s a will there’s a lawyer. From the Dublin Evening Post of 24 July 1823 we read:-
The Tithe Applotment Survey lists at Cuffsborough:-
Michael Brophy Thomas Brophy
John Brophy Joseph Butler
Thomas Cooney Judith Dalton
John Delaney Lewis Delaney
Anne Doran Anne Doughiny
John Doughiny Dennis Doughiny
John Dowling Denis Fitzpatrick
Patrick Flanigan Thomas Hanlon
William Kays Stephen Keogh
Judith Lawlor Stephen Lawlor
John Lawlor Darby Lawlor
Patrick Loughman John Maher
Martin McEvoy Patrick Minton
Elizabeth Power John Roe
James Sampson Patrick Shiel
Thomas Thompson Robert Wellwood
Dennis Whelan Edward Whelan
Elizabeth Young
Tithe Returns, Parish of Aughaboe, Co. Laois, 1826 from Jane Lyons site www.from-ireland.net
Although there are 37 individuals listed that does not mean that there were 37 cottages on the lands at Cuffesboro.
Lewis in 1840 writes:-
AGHABOE, or AUGHAVOE, a parish, in the barony of UPPER OSSORY, QUEEN’S county, and province of LEINSTER, on the road from Dublin to Roscrea; containing, with the post-town of Burros-in-Ossory, 6196 inhabitants. This place, originally called Achadh-Bho, and signifying in the Irish language “the field of an ox,” derived that name from the fertility of its soil and the luxuriance of its pastures. It was celebrated at a very early period as the residence of St. Canice, who, in the 6th century, founded a monastery here for the cultivation of literature and religious discipline; and so great was his reputation for learning and sanctity, that a town was soon formed around it for the reception of his numerous disciples. The town soon afterwards became the seat of a diocese, comprehending the district of Ossory, and the church of the monastery was made the cathedral of the see of Aghaboe. This see continued, under a succession of bishops, to retain its episcopal distinction till near the close of the 12th century, when Felix O’Dullany, the last bishop, was compelled, by the submission of Donchad, Prince of Ossory, to Henry II., to remove the seat of his diocese to Kilkenny.
Various Versions of the local big houses from Lewis and other surveys
The gentlemen’s seats are Ballybrophy, the residence of T. White, Esq.; Old Park, of — Roe, Esq.; Middlemount, of Capt. Moss; Carrick, of — Pilkington, Esq.; and Cuffsborough, of J. Palmer, Esq. Fairs are held at Burros eight times in the year; and petty sessions are held every alternate week there and at Cuffsborough.
The seats near Rathdowney are given as The principal seats are Harristown, the residence of M. H. Drought, Esq.; Beckfield, of T. Roe, Esq.; Johnstown Glebe, of the Rev. M. Monck; and Lackland, of the Rev. R. Young: and in the vicinity of town, though not within the parish, are Ballybrophy, the residence of S. White, Esq.; Old Park, of Robert White, Esq.; Middlemount, of Robert Roe, Esq.; Grantstown, of — Vicars, Esq.; Kilbredy, of James Drought, Esq.; Belmont, of J. Roe, Esq.; Levally, of R. Fitzgerald, Esq.; Knockfin, of Captain Mosse; and Erkendale, of W. Owen, Esq.
The gentlemen’s seats are Cuffs- borough, the residence of J. Palmer, Esq. ; Ballybrophy, of T. White, Esq. ; Old Park, of R. White, Esq. ; Middlemount, of R. Roe, Esq, ; Lismore, of W. White, Esq. ; Knockfinne, of Capt. Mosse; Kilmaseene, of W. Pilkington, Esq. ; the Glebe-house, of the Rev. T. Thacker; Aghaboe House, of J. Banks, Esq.; Gortnaclea, of P. Roe. Esq.; and Ballicolla Cottage, of W. Calbeck, Esq.
Robert Wellwood of Cuffsborough was recorded as having a gun licence in 1832. On the tithe applotment survey he is shown as renting over 50 acres at Cuffesboro.
Maria Sowdon Palmer’s baptism is shown in the parish register of St Mary’s Parish, Reading as the 5 Sep 1783. Research carried out by Paul Marshall, 3rd Great Nephew, on 7 April 1994 at Records Office, Shire Hall, Reading, Berkshire.
She was the eldest daughter of Thomas Sowdon was born in Reading, Berkshire in the year 1783.She married Captain Joseph Palmer of the 7th Hussars and resided at Cuffsborough House, Queens’s County.She was a fine horsewoman and very fond of hunting. She died September 18, 1870 at Cuffsborough aged 87 years leaving several children.
Freeman’s Journal Dublin, Republic of Ireland 26 Jan 1864
Freeman’s Journal Dublin, 12 Jul 1870
Mrs Hawkersworth may have been the Elizabeth Power in the Tithe Returns, Parish of Aughaboe, Co. Laois, 1826 who had 10 acres of 2nd class land.
The Freeman’s Journal letter suggests that Mrs Palmer’s estate had given up the lease quite soon after her death
Freeman’s Journal Dublin, 6 Feb 1877
Joseph Cuffe probably took on the lease about this time.
Joe Cuffe gets a mention or two in James Joyce’s Ulysses, for Leopold Bloom was at one time `a clerk in the employment of Joseph Cuffe of 5 Smithfield for the superintendence of sales in the adjacent Dublin Cattle market on the North Circular road.’
The firm of Laurence Cuffe & Sons, cattle, corn & wool salesmen, is listed at 5 Smithfield in Thom’s Directories of Dublin over many decades. As the business prospered, the Cuffes moved their residence first to Mountjoy Square, Rathmines, Waterloo Road and later to Alma Terrace, Monkstown and other suburbs. His aunt, Sister Clare Dillon, was one of the founders of the Presentation Convent in Kildare. Given his considerable pretensions to grandeur (they are buried at the O’Connell Circle in Glasnevin) it seems unlikely that he ever lived here, otherwise it would have been redecorated. It was probably used as a fattening farm, and the proximity of the train stations was its advantage,
Freeman’s Journal Dublin, 14 Aug 1897
On 20th August, 1897, All his Right, Title, and Interest in and to his superior FEEDING FARM OF CUFFSBORO,’ Containing 180 acres, or thereabouts, held from Mrs Grattan Bellew at the yearly judicial rent of £241, less landlord’s proportion of county cess and poor rate; valuation £250. The fields are nicely divided’ well fenced, sheltered. The public read runs alongside the farm. There is an excellent residence fit for a respectable family, with out offices, comprising large barn, coach. House, shed for feeding 50 head of cattle, four stables. The timber growing on the farm is principally the property of the tenant. We beg to draw particular attention s it is seldom such a really superior farm as this comes on the market. It is well situate, lying midway between Abbeyleix, Mountrath, Rathdowney, and Ballybrophy Railway Stations. Also the purchase-money can remain out for a term of years if required.
It appears that it did not sell as in the 1901 Census the house was unoccupied but Chas. P Cuffe was given as the landlord of two holdings (which should almost certainly be Joe P Cuffe who d in 1908). It shows 9 houses on the townland. The 1911 census shows 11 houses;
Pauline Grattan Bellew died in 1908. On the 1911 census the house is occupied by William Pratt and his family, a farmer who on the 1901 census had been resident at Killeen near Callan in Kilkenny, but was born in Laois – there were Pratt families at both Donaghmore and Abbeyleix.
At some stage before 1919 Cuffsborough was bought by the Begadons of Aghmacart for the timber – the beech woods across the front field were felled, except for the tree over Lady Cuffe’s reputed grave, which is of course protected by a great white horse with eyes like lanterns
On the 1919 Land Act purchases William Whelan is shown as having acquired Cuffesboro. I believe this to be a typo for Phelan. The Phelans, known as the Munster Phelans, were three brothers. Jer Nolan told me each was given a farm by their Tipperary born father – Farranville, Ballybrophy House and Cuffsborough.
I think that they were known as the Munster Phelan to differentiate them from the other family who are buried at Ballacolla – Erected to/the memory of/Mrs. Mary Phelan of Seeregh/who died October the 14th 1877/aged 80 years./Also her grandchild/Mary Phelan of Cuffsboro who/died young/also her son John Phelan died /November the 29th 1886 aged 73 /years./Also Thomas Phelan/of Cuffsboro who died Janury (sic)/19th 1904 aged 81 years./RIP
In 1971 Wm. Phelan, had 78 acres at Ballybrophy House and his brother Lawrence Phelan had 83 acres at Cuffesborough in the possession of the land commission.
However at this stage the house had already been abandoned, as can be seen by David Griffin’s photographs in the Quarterly Bulletin of The Irish Georgian Society. Vol. XVI, No. 4 (October-December, 1973).
Tuesday, 21 March 1972 it was noted in Dail Eireann that part of the Phelans’s 87 acres at Cuffesboro had been allocated by the land commission, which is when I think when The Nolan family arrived from distant Rathdowney
The antique dealer Gerry Kenyon remembers acquiring some very wrecked but once grand French ballroom chairs from Cuffsborough at this time (they probably originally came from Ballybrophy House). Lar Phelan was a bachelor and a most upright member of society. It seems that one of his brothers (though we know not which) came to Cuffsboro to distil greyhound embrocation, on the grounds that the Gardaí wold never raid Lar. We found bottles and part of a still in the basement. Cuffesborough was a house where dancing and singing took place on a regular basis, in the front hall. Jer Nolan used the phrase “Strolling House” – Bothántaiocht as Peig Sayers described it, visiting houses for pastime or gossip.
It is remarkable that, despite its many occupants, Cuffesboro has only been redecorated once since its construction and the hall retains traces of the original faux stone block decoration. The architraves around the doors in the front hall all have a Bindonesque timber keystone to further deceive the eye into believing it to be a cut stone interior. The present drawing room, which was originally painted a dusky pink / old rose colour, has a cupboard for the chamber pot hidden behind the shutters. Most of the chair rail / dado and skirting was destroyed when the house was completely derelict, but some pieces have survived. It is interesting to note that original paint colours have different tones, and sometimes different colours on the horizontal and vertical planes. The ongoing restoration has been greatly assisted by John Lenihan of Kanturk who provided a raised and fielded panelled partition from what was Alexandra College on Leeson Street but was originally the home of Jane Austen’s young love, LCJ Thomas Lefory and came from what was probably his bedroom. John also provided many 18th century raised and fielded panelled doors, mostly from houses that were being demolished on South Frederick Street and Lower Leeson Street, and the straight string staircase to the top floor which comes from a house in South Frederick Street, on the site of College Park House. The wing door comes from Phillipstown House which once stood near Rathdowney and was reduced to rubble in 1980. It is an excellent example of a local style of a panelled front door with a circular central panel. Edward Byrne of The Traditional Lime Company http://www.traditionallime.comprovided the slates, roof timbers and oak flooring, as well as constant support, advice and encouragement. Restoration, having faltered over the last 15 years, is under progress once again.
Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.
Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.
p. 45. “(Blunden, Bt/PB; Knox/IF; Marescaux de Sabruit/IFR) One of the most perfect medium sized early C18 country houses in Ireland; built 1737 for Samuel Mathews, Mayor of Kilkenny, whose name and the date are inscribed on quoins on either side of the entrance front. Of two storeys over a high basement. Six bay entrance front, with tripartite round-headed rusticated doorcase; blank tympanum over door instead of fanlight. Windows in lower storey have rusticated surrounds; those above, shouldered surrounds on consoles; basement windows camber-headed with keystones. Quoins; broad flight of steps with ironwork railings up to hall door. High, sprocketed roof. Garden front also six bays but plain; with two large windows in the centre and below them a door with an enchanting miniature Baroque perron in front of it, complete with double iron-railed curving steps. Large hall, from the back of which rises a staircase of noble joinery, with Corinthian newels and acanthus carving on the ends of the treads. Black marble chimneypiece in hall contemporary with building of house; ceiling over staircase decorated with geometrical plaster panels. Large lobby above hall open to head of stairs with rococo plasterwork. Drawing room and dining room with plain cornices; chimneypiece in drawing room contemporary with house.; that in dining room, of Kilkenny marble with scroll pediment, proabaly earlier, having been brought from Kilcreene House. Drawing room hung with cream and gold wallpaper of slightly Chinese design, originally made for Allerton Park, Yorkshire. Study with original C18 fielded panelling, and another chimneypiece from Kilcreene.”
Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.
Detached three- or five-bay (three-bay deep) two-storey over part raised basement country house, built 1737-8, on a rectangular plan; three- or five-bay full-height rear (north) elevation. Occupied, 1911. Hipped slate roof on a quadrangular plan with clay ridge tiles, paired rendered central chimney stacks having lichen-spotted capping supporting yellow terracotta tapered pots, grouped rooflights to rear (north) pitch, sproketed eaves, and cast-iron rainwater goods on dragged cut-limestone cornice retaining cast-iron downpipes. Rendered, ruled and lined walls with drag edged rusticated cut-limestone quoins to corners supporting dragged cut-limestone “bas-relief” recessed band to eaves. Square-headed central door opening in tripartite arrangement approached by flight of twelve lichen-spotted cut-limestone steps between arrow head-detailed wrought iron railings, drag edged dragged cut-limestone block-and-start surround centred on keystone framing timber panelled double doors having overpanel with four-over-four timber sash sidelights without horns. Square-headed window openings in camber-headed recesses (basement) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone monolithic surrounds centred on keystones framing wrought iron bars over one-by-one horizontal sash windows without horns having lattice glazing bars. Square-headed window openings (ground floor) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and drag edged dragged cut-limestone block-and-start surrounds centred on triple keystones framing six-over-six timber sash windows without horns. Square-headed window openings (first floor) with dragged cut-limestone sills on “Acanthus”-detailed scroll consoles, and dragged cut-limestone lugged surrounds framing six-over-six timber sash windows without horns. Square-headed window openings to side elevations with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed dressings framing six-over-six (ground floor) or nine-over-nine (first floor) timber sash windows without horns having part exposed sash boxes. Square-headed central door opening to rear (north) elevation approached by “perron” of eight lichen-spotted cut-limestone steps between wrought iron railings, drag edged dragged cut-limestone doorcase with monolithic pilasters supporting “Cyma Recta”- or “Cyma Reversa”-detailed cornice on rosette-detailed frieze framing glazed timber panelled door. Paired square-headed window opening in camber-headed recesses with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed dressings framing sixteen-over-sixteen timber sash windows without horns having part exposed sash boxes. Square-headed window openings (remainder) with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, and concealed dressings framing six-over-six (ground floor) or nine-over-nine (first floor) timber sash windows without horns having part exposed sash boxes. Interior including (ground floor): central hall retaining carved timber surrounds to door openings framing timber panelled doors centred on cut-limestone Classical-style chimneypiece, moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling, staircase on a dog leg plan with turned timber balusters supporting carved timber banister terminating in fluted Corinthian colonette newels, timber panelled shutters to window openings to half-landing, moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling centred on “Acanthus” ceiling rose in moulded plasterwork frame, carved timber surrounds to door openings to landing framing timber panelled doors, and moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling; study (south-west) retaining carved timber surround to door opening framing timber panelled door with carved timber surrounds to window openings framing timber panelled shutters on panelled risers, reclaimed rosette-detailed cut-limestone Classical-style chimneypiece, and moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling; drawing room (north-west) retaining carved timber surround to door opening framing timber panelled door with carved timber surrounds to window openings framing timber panelled shutters on panelled risers, cut-white marble Classical-style chimneypiece, and picture railing below moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling; dining room (east) retaining carved timber surround to door opening framing timber panelled door with carved timber surrounds to window openings framing timber panelled shutters on panelled risers, reclaimed cut-limestone Classical-style chimneypiece, and plasterwork cornice to ceiling; and carved timber surrounds to door openings to remainder framing timber panelled doors with carved timber surrounds to window openings framing timber panelled shutters on panelled risers. Set in landscaped grounds.
Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.Bonnetstown, County Kilkenny, courtesy of National Inventory.
A country house erected by ‘Saml. Mathews Esq. May the 14th 1737’ representing an important component of the domestic built heritage of County Kilkenny with the architectural value of the composition, ‘one of the most perfect medium-sized early eighteenth-century houses in Ireland’ (Bence-Jones 1978, 45), confirmed by such attributes as the compact rectilinear plan form centred on a “Venetian”-like tripartite doorcase demonstrating good quality workmanship in a silver-grey limestone; the diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression with those openings showing robust dressings recalling the contemporary Desart Court (1733; demolished 1957); and the high pitched sproketed roofline. Having been well maintained, the elementary form and massing survive intact together with substantial quantities of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior, including crown or cylinder glazing panels in hornless sash frames: meanwhile, contemporary joinery including ‘a very wide staircase rising out of the hall in the seventeenth-century manner’ (Craig and Garner 1973, 93); chimneypieces reclaimed from Kilcreen House (ibid., 93); and sleek plasterwork refinements, all highlight the artistic potential of the composition. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (see 12401921); and a walled garden (extant 1839), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having subsequent connections with William Pitt Blunden JP (1815-94) ‘late of Bonnettstown [sic] County Kilkenny’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1894, 46); Major Lindesay Knox JP (1865-1933), one-time High Sheriff of County Kilkenny (fl. 1905); and Commander Geoffrey Marescaux de Saubruit (1901-86) who allowed Andrew Bush access to photograph the house for the book “Bonnettstown: A House in Ireland” (1989).
In 1989 American photographer Andrew Bush published a book of images he had taken at the start of the decade. Bonnettstown: A House in Ireland caused something of a stir at the time and has since become a collector’s item, as it chronicles the last days of a now-disappeared world. The visual equivalent of a Chekhov play, the pictures exude a melancholic dignity. Many of them had previously been exhibited in the United States, and in The New Yorker critic Janet Malcolm wrote that what gave the photographs a special lustre was ‘the frank avowal that they make of their voyeurism. Bush’s images have a kind of tentativeness, almost a furtiveness, like that of a child who is somewhere he shouldn’t be, seeing things he shouldn’t be seeing, touching objects he shouldn’t be touching and struggling with the conflict between his impulse to beat it out of there and his desire to stay and see and touch.’ Anyone who looked at the pictures became willingly complicit in that voyeurism.
As is so often the case, we know relatively little about the history of Bonnettstown, County Kilkenny although conveniently a date stone advises the house was built in 1737 for Samuel Mathews, a mayor of Kilkenny. In other words, this was a merchant prince’s residence, conveniently close to his place of work and yet set in open countryside so that he could play at being a member of the gentry. The house was designed to emulate those occupied by landed families, albeit on a more modest scale. Flanked by short quadrants and of two storeys over a raised basement, it has six bays centred on a tripartite doorcase accessed via a flight of steps. The rear of the building is curious since here the middle section is occupied by a pair of long windows below which is another doorcase approached by a pair of curving steps with wrought-iron balustrades. While much of Bonnettstown remains as first designed, some alterations have been made since the house was first built: the fenestration was updated, although a single instance of the original glazing survives on the first floor. And on the façade, the upper level window surrounds on consoles look to be a 19th century addition. Nevertheless, one feels that were Mayor Mathews to return, he would recognise his property.
Inside, Bonnettstown has a typical arrangement of medium-sized houses from this period. It is of tripartite design, with a considerable amount of space devoted to the entrance hall, to the rear of which rises the main staircase with Corinthian newels and acanthus carving on the ends of each tread. The rooms on either side show how difficult it can sometimes be for aspiration to achieve realisation. As mentioned, Bonnettstown was meant to be a modest-proportioned version of a grand country house, and as a result the requisite number of reception rooms had to be accommodated. To make this happen, some of them are perforce very small, as is the case with what would have been a study/office to the immediate left of the entrance hall. Here a chimneypiece has been incorporated which is out of proportion with the room, although the reason for this could be that it came from Kilcreene, a since-demolished property in the same county. That is certainly the case with the chimneypiece in the dining room, which is wonderfully ample in its scale. The chimney piece in the drawing room looks to be from later in the 18th century, as does another intervention on the first floor, a rococo ceiling in a room above the entrance. The well-worn back stairs lead both to the largely untouched attic storey and to the basement with their series of service rooms.
While hitch hiking around Ireland as a young man in the late 1970s Andrew Bush was offered a lift by an elderly gentleman called Commander Geoffrey Marescaux de Saubruit who invited the American to visit his house, Bonnettstown. Bush took up the offer and over the next few years regularly stayed with the Commander and his octogenarian relations. During this time, the property was sold and so Bush’s photographs, and subsequent book, became a record of what had once been. ‘I guess I was responding to my desperation,’ he later explained, ‘to the anxiety that I was feeling that this place was disappearing. I guess I wanted to soak up as much as I could before it was gone.’ Inevitably it did go, as the new owners put their own stamp on the place and cleared away the atmosphere of shabby gentility which had pertained when Bush saw Bonnettstown. A few weeks ago the house was sold again, and now another generation will take possession. What mark will it leave on the house, and is it likely that another Andrew Bush will wish to make a record of Bonnettstown before the next change occurs? We must wait and see.
An abiding problem in the study of Irish country houses is ascribing a date of construction. Not so Bonnettstown, County Kilkenny where on completion of building work the original owner helpfully provided this information. On one of the quoins to the left of the entrance is the gentleman’s name, Samuel Mathews, while its match to the right features the date May 14th 1737. On the other hand, what remains unknown is who was responsible for the design of Bonnettstown: like a number of other houses in this part of the country for the past half-century it has been attributed to the gentleman-architect Francis Bindon.