Leinster House, Dublin

We visited Leinster House, the seat of Irish Government, during Open House Dublin 2025. We were lucky to get tickets! Open House Dublin events book out almost immediately.

Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Leinster House was built from 1745-1752 for James Fitzgerald (1722-1773) 20th Earl of Kildare and first Duke of Leinster.

James Fitzgerald (1722-1773) 20th Earl of Kildare later 1st Duke of Leinster, by Robert Hunter c. 1803, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

James’s father, Robert FitzGerald (1675-1744) 19th Earl of Kildare, made Carton in County Kildare his principal seat and employed Richard Castle (1690-1751) from 1739 to enlarge and improve the house (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/06/04/carton-house-county-kildare-a-hotel/ ). Before that, the Earl of Kildare had lived in Kilkea Castle in County Kildare.

Kilkea Castle, County Kildare. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

After the destruction of Maynooth Castle, occupied by Earls of Kildare, in 1641, George, 14th Earl of Kildare, resided at Kilkea Castle from 1647-1660, and it continued as the family’s principal seat until Robert, the 19th Earl, built Carton House. [1]

Robert, 19th Earl of Kildare (1675-1744) after Frederick Graves, courtesy of Adam’s auction 15th Oct 2019. Robert FitzGerald, (1675 – 1744) was married to Mary O Brien, daughter of William O’Brien 3rd Earl of Inchiquin. They had 12 children but only 2 survived to majority. They had lived quietly at Kilkea Castle, near Athy, but in 1739 Robert bought back the lease of Carton, in Maynooth, for £8,000. He commissioned Richard Castle, the eminent architect, to reconstruct the existing house. In the pediment over the South front, previously the main entrance, is the coat of arms of Robert FitzGerald and his wife Mary O’Brien. Robert also employed the La Franchini brothers to construct the wonderful ceiling in the Gold Salon. The additions to Carton were not finished when Robert died in 1744 but he left instructions in his will to finish the restoration according to his plans. A monument dedicated to Robert FitzGerald is situated in Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin. (This portrait hung in Carton until 1949 when the Fitzgerald family sold the estate. It hung in Kilkea Castle until 1960. It was in the FitzGerald family collection in Oxfordshire until 2013.)

The 20th Earl, James, employed Richard Castle from 1745 to build him a new house in the city, which is now called Leinster House, and began to be so called around 1766 when James Fitzgerald was created Duke of Leinster. He was told that this was not a fashionable area to build, as at that time most of the upper classes lived on the north side of the Liffey around Mountjoy Square and Henrietta Street. He was confident that where he led, fashion would follow, and indeed he was correct.

The garden front, which was the original front, of Carton House, County Kildare, also designed by Richard Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, July 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The building as it was originally constructed is a double cube of granite on the east and north fronts and Ardbraccan limestone on the west entrance front. It has a forecourt on the Kildare Street side, which Christine Casey tells us in her Dublin volume of the Pevsner series The Buildings of Ireland is in the French seventeenth century manner, which probably derived via Burlington House in London, a house which would have influenced Richard Castle. The form is Palladian, an eleven bay block of three storeys over basement with a “tetrastyle” (i.e. supported by four columns) Corinthian portico over advanced and rusticated central bays. “Rustication” in masonry is a decorative feature achieved by cutting back the edges of stones to a plane surface while leaving the central portion of the face either rough or projecting markedly, emphasising the blocks. [2]

Casey points to the unusual arrangement of pediments on the windows of the first floor, as an alternating pattern would be the norm, rather than the pairs of segmental (i.e. rounded) pediments flanked by single triangular pediments in the bays to either side of the central three windows. [see 2]

Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The centre block has a balustraded balcony, and the attic and ground floor windows have lugged architraves: the architrave is the classical moulding around the window and “lug” means ear, so the windows have “ears,” otherwise called shoulders. The term “Lugs” was made famous as a nickname for a policeman in the Dublin Liberties, “Lugs” Branigan, a man known for his sticking-out ears. A heavyweight boxing champion, he had a reputation as the country’s toughest and bravest garda. The ground floor windows have are topped with a further cornice – a horizontal decorative moulding.

Originally, Casey writes, the house was linked to the side walls of the forecourt by low five-bay screen walls with Doric colonneads and central doorcases flanked by paired niches. The colonnade was given a pilastered upper storey in the nineteenth century, and was rebuilt in the 1950s when the colonnade was filled in, Casey explains. The lower storey on the left side when facing the building (north side) still has the colonnade: you can compare the stages of building the colonnades in the pictures below. In fact this colonnade was reinstated after being filled in. It was recently (when written before 2005) reinstated, Casey tells us, by Paul Arnold Architects, and topped with the nineteenthy century screen wall above which we see today.

Design for Leinster House by Richard Castle 1745, courtesy of Irish Architectural Archive.
What remains of the original colonnades on either side of the main house. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Malton drawing of Leinster House.
Leinster House, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

In the Malton drawing of Leinster house we can see that the side walls of the forecourt had pedimented arches. The present piers, wrought iron gates and railings were added in the 1880s, built by T.N. & T.M. Deane.

The present piers, wrought iron gates and railings were added in the 1880s, built by T.N. & T.M. Deane. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: it was one of three houses of the Fitzgeralds and the Duke of Leinster, along with Carton at Maynooth and Black Rock (later Frascati).

To the south of the forecourt lay a stable court, with a stable and coach house block and a kitchen block which was linked to the house by a small yard, which must have been very inconvenient when dinner was served!

The garden front is fully rusticated on the ground floor, with advanced two-bay ends.

Leinster House, Dublin,the side facing Merrion Square. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, the Merrion Square facing side, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The central first floor window has a triangular pediment. The door porch was added in the nineteenth century. The lawn lay on property leased from Viscount Fitzwilliam.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. It was designed by Richard Castle (1690-1751) with later input from Isaac Ware (1704-1786) and Thomas Owen (d. 1788). Here we see the location of the Main Hall, Supper Room and Parlour and Drawing room on first floor, Picture Gallery and principal bedrooms on second floor and Nursery and children’s and staff rooms on third floor. There is a separate kitchen and stores block and stable block.

James’s father died in 1744 before his house at Carton was complete, so it was finished for James the 20th Earl. James was the second son of his parents the 19th Earl and his wife Mary (d. 1780), eldest daughter of William O’Brien, 3rd Earl of Inchiquin. His elder brother died in 1740.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us that James’s political career began on 17 October 1741, when (then known as Lord Offaly) he entered the Irish house of commons as member for Athy. In 1744 he moved to the House of Lords after he inherited the earldom. [3] It was then that he embarked on his town house in Dublin. Now the houses of parliament are located next to Leinster house, but at the time, they were located in what is now the Bank of Ireland on College Green in Dublin.

Parliament House, Dublin, with the House of Commons dome on fire, 27th February 1792.
Parliament Buildings Bank of Ireland, College Green, Dublin, between ca. 1865-1914, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
House of Lords, Parliament Building, Bank of Ireland, Dublin, between ca. 1865-1914, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography continues:

His seniority in the peerage, popularity, and electoral interests ensured his appointment to the privy council (12 May 1746). He was made an English peer, Viscount Leinster of Taplow, Bucks. (1 February 1747), and appointed lord justice (11 May 1756). Master general of the ordnance (1758–66), he became major-general (11 November 1761) and lieutenant-general (30 March 1770). He was also promoted through the Irish peerage, becoming marquis of Kildare (19 March 1761) and duke of Leinster (26 November 1766).” [see 3]

James married Emilia Mary Lennox (1731-1814) in 1747, two years after Richard Castle began work on James’s townhouse. She was the daughter of General Charles Lennox, 2nd Duke of Richmond. Her grandfather the 1st Duke of Richmond was an illegitimate son of King Charles II of England. Emilia’s sister Louisa (1743-1821) married Thomas Conolly (d. 1803) and lived next to her sister in Carton, at Castletown in County Kildare (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/03/15/castletown-house-and-parklands-celbridge-county-kildare-an-office-of-public-works-property/

Emily Fitzgerald née Lennox (1731-1814) Duchess of Leinster 1770s by Joshua Reynolds.
This terrific portrait of William Conolly (1662-1729) of Castletown, County Kildare is in the dining room.

Richard Castle died in 1751 before the town house was complete. He died at Carton, the Earl of Kildare’s country seat, while writing a letter with instructions to a carpenter at Leinster house. Isaac Ware stepped in to finish the house. An exhibition about Leinster House in the Irish Archictural Archive explains that following the death of Richard Castle in 1751, little further about the building is recorded until 1759. By this time, English architect Isaac Ware, famous for his A Complete Body of Architecture published in 1756, had become involved with the project. The Fitzgeralds began to use the house in 1753 while work on the interior continued.

Inside, the house has a double height entrance hall with an arcaded screen of Doric pillars toward the back which opens onto a transverse corridor that divides the front and rear ranges. I found the hall hard to capture in a photograph, especially as we were part of a tour group. The hall reminded me of the double height entrance hall of Castletown, and indeed Christine Casey notes in her Buildings of Ireland: Dublin that the plan and dimensions of Leinster House relate directly to those of Castletown house in County Kildare, which was built in 1720s for William Conolly, and which was probably, she writes, built under the direction of Edward Lovett Pearce, possibly with the assistance of Richard Castle. [2]

The double height entrance hall of Leinster House with its arcaded screen of pillars. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

It is the double height that reminds me of the great hall in Castletown, although Castletown has a gallery and Leinster house does not. The niches remind me of the similar front hall in Gloster house in County Offaly, which although a private family home, in 2025 is a Section 482 property which you can visit on particular days.

The black and white flooring is original to the house. [see 2] The red marble doorframe was added later.

Portraits of Arthur Griffith, William T. Cosgrave and Michael Collins. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Great Hall, Castletown House, Celbridge, Co Kildare, photograph by Sonder Visuals 2022 for Failte Ireland.
Gloster, February 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The coffered ceiling in the Hall in Leinster house is different from the ceilings in the front hall in Castletown or Gloster. The deep coffered cove rises to a plain framed flat panel with central foliated boss. There is an entablature above the Doric columns around the four sides of the hall. The square ovolo framed niches above have statues and above the main door the niches have windows.

Portraits of Eamon de Valera, Michael D. Higgins and Cathal Brugha. Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Leinster House, Dublin, October 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The chimneypiece in the front hall, Casey tells us, was originally faced with a pedimented niche on the north wall opposite, flanked by the doorcases. The chimneypiece is of Portland stone, she describes, with ornamental consoles and above the lintel, enormous scrolls flanking a bust pedestal.

The principal stair hall is a two bay compartment north of the front hall. Casey tells us that Isaac Ware inserted an imperial staircase – one in which a central staircase rises to a landing then splits into two symmetrical flights up to the next floor – into a hall compartment which was meant for a three flight open well staircase. The staircase is further marred, Casey tells us, by a later utilitarian metal balustrade. Casey does not mention the plasterwork here, which is very pretty. The wooden staircase is a later addition.

The Imperial staircase in Leinster House, with an extra staircase heading somewhere! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall has stucco frames and floral swags. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The stair hall, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Beyond the stair hall is the former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais, which fills the entire depth of the house. I found the lights rather offputting and think they ruin the intended effect of the room and the ceiling, which Casey tells us derives from Sebastiano Serlio (1475-1554), an Italian architect who was part of an Italian team who built the Palace of Fontainbleau, and Tutte l’opere d’architettura et prospetiva (All the Works of Architecture and Perspective) is Serlio’s practical treatise on architecture.

The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The Serlio ceiling of the former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for Leinster House ground floor supper room by Isaac Ware c. 1759, IAA 96/68.1/3/1. This plan, ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the ground floor supper room, now the Oireachtas Lirbary, by Ware. The drawing shows the room almost as executed.

The room has three screens of fluted Ionic columns – one at either end and one in front of the bow at one side of the room. Originally, Casey informs us, there were six fluted columns to each screen, paired at the ends of the room and in the centre of the north bow, but in the 19th century one column was removed from each pair. On the walls the corresponding pilasters would have matched the six columns.

The bow is considered to be the first bow in Dublin, and the design of the house is said to have inspired the design of the White House in Washington DC, designed by a man from Kilkenny, James Hoban.

The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The former Supper Room, which is now the Library of the Oireachtais. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: James Hoban, who designed The White House in Washington DC, both pictured here. The portrait is by 20th century South Carolina artist Charles de Antonio, and it shows a drawing of Leinster House in the background.

A pedimented doorcase is flanked by ornate chimneypieces based on a design by William Kent. These are surmounted by Corinthian overmantels after a design by Inigo Jones, possibly made to frame portraits, Casey suggests, of the Earl and Countess of Kildare painted by Reynolds in 1753-54. [see 2]

The chimneypieces are based on a design by William Kent. These are surmounted by Corinthian overmantels after a design by Inigo Jones, possibly made to frame portraits, Casey suggests, of the Earl and Countess of Kildare painted by Reynolds in 1753-54.
How lucky our politicians are to have use of such a beautiful library. These drawers hold the latest local newspapers from various counties. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The view from the library of the National Gallery. Note the wavering window glass, a sure sign of old glass. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Next to the Supper Room on the garden front is the large dining room, also designed by Isaac Ware. It is of three bays, and has decorative doorcases and a beautiful ceiling attributed to Filippo Lafranchini.

The Dining Room, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for Leinster House first floor dining room by Isaac Ware, c. 1759, courtesy Irish Architectural Archive (IAA 96/68.1/3/3). This drawing by Ware shows the ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the first floor dining room or saloon. A note in the top left corner indicated that Henry Fox, brother-in-law of the Earl’s wife, acted as go-between of some kind in the Earl’s dealing with the architect.
Design for the plasterwork in the ground floor dining room of Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini, 1750s. IAA 96/68.1/2/1. The Lafranchini brothers, of Swiss origin, have been credited with the introduction of the human figure into plaster work and had a profound influence on the native Irish stuccodors after their arrival to work for the Earl of Kildare’s father at Carton in 1739. These drawings, attributed to Filippo Lafranchini are the only known drawings by either brother for an Irish building, despite the fact that they are credited with having worked on fifteen houses over a forty year period in Ireland.
A large painting of Daniel O’Connel hangs at one end of the Dining Room, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Christine Casey describes: “Putti swing from an inner border of festoons linked at the cardinal points by acanthus cartouches.” [see 2] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ceiling of the Dining Room in Leinster house by Filippo Lafranchini. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The dining room in Leinster house has another grand chimneypiece. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Christine Casey next describes the Garden Hall, with a more modest shell and acanthus ceiling and a chimneypiece with claw feet. Next is the former Private Dining Room, she tells us, a room from 1760, which has a ceiling with acanthus, rocaille shells and floral festoon forming a deep border to a plain chamfered central panel.

Casey tells us that the Earl of Kildare’s Library is at the southeast corner of the house, and that it has pedimented bookcases. It too was designed by Isaac Ware.

Designs for the ceiling of the Earl of Kildare’s dressing room by Richard Castle, 1745, IIA 96/68.1/1/17, 18, 19. Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. As with the several surviving designs for the front elevation of Leinster House, these three beautifully executed drawings for proposed ceilings in the Earl of Kildare’s dressing room are indicative of the attention to design detail which Richard Castle brought to the project in an effort to satisfy his demanding clients. The third variant shows the ceiling almost as executed.

Before we go into the separate building that holds the current Dáil chamber, let us go up to the first floor. The former gallery now holds the Senate Chamber, and it fills the north end of the eighteenth century house. Both Richard Castle and Isaac Ware prepared plans for this room, but the room was unfinished when the Duke of Leinster died in 1773.

Seanad chamber, formerly the gallery. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

James died on 19 November 1773 at Leinster House and was buried in Christ Church cathedral four days later. His eldest son George predeceased him, so the Dukedom passed to his second son, William Robert Fitzgerald (1748/49-1804). The 2nd Duke completed the picture gallery in 1775 to designs by James Wyatt (1746-1813).

The impressive ceiling of the Seanad chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The ceiling as designed by James Wyatt is tripartite. I defer to Christine Casey for a description:

at its centre a chamfered octagon within a square and at each end a diaper within a square, each flanked by broad figurative lunette panels at the base of the coving and bracketed by attenuated tripods, urns and arabesque finials… It remains among the finest examples of Neoclassical stuccowork in Dublin.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: Sketch showing the interior of the Senate Chamber of Leinster House by Con O’Sullivan, 1930s (IAA 96/145.1). Founded in 1747, Henry Sibthorpe & Co were one of the leading painting and decorating firms in Dublin from the first half of the 19th century to the mid 20th, and they closed in 1970s. Some of its records survive in the National Archives and in the IAA. Drawings showed perspective views of proposed decorative schemes to prospective clients. This dawing by Sibthorpe employee Con O’Sullivan shows a proposed repainting of the Senate Chamber.

Wyatt created an elliptical vault over the principal volume of the room and a half-dome above the bow.

The bow of the Seanad chamber, which has three windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Design for the first floor gallery of Leinster House by Isaac Ware c. 1759, IAA 96/68.1/3/2. This drawing by Ware shows the plan, ceiling design and three laid back wall elevations for the first floor gallery, now the Seanad Chamber. Once again, a note providing the opinion of Henry Fox is attached to the drawing.
The main ceiling of the gallery in Leinster House is an elliptical vault. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The main ceiling of the gallery in Leinster House is an elliptical vault. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

On the inner wall of the room Wyatt places three ornate double-leaf doorcases and between them two large white marble chimneypieces. The chimneypieces have high-relief female figures to the uprights and on the lintel, putti sit “between headed spandrels enclosing urns and confronted griffins.”

Unfortunately with the tour group I was unable to get good photographs of the room, the chimneypieces or the carved doorframes.

The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The chimneypiece in the Seanad chamber, Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The winged griffin figure is repeated in the doorframe and in the chimneypiece and the ceiling. I love the carved ram heads on the doorframe also. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The decorative doors of the Seanad chamber,with decoration in pewter and gesso. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Next to the Seanad Chamber is the Seanad Anteroom. It was originally the upstairs dining room.

Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A portrait of Robert Emmet by Maurice McGonigal. Former traitors became Irish heroes. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A portrait of Theobald Wolf Tone by Maurice McGonigal. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Seanad Anteroom in Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. This separate building originally housed a lecture theatre, built in 1893 by Thomas Newenham and Thomas Manly Deane. Before this was built, let us look at the rest of the history briefly of the Dukes of Leinster who continued to use the house as their Dublin residence.

You can take a virtual tour of Leinster house, https://www.oireachtas.ie/en/visit-and-learn/visit-the-oireachtas/virtual-tour/

Museum and entrance to Dáil chamber building. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
This is the separate entrance to the Dail Chamber building, the former lecture theatre. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
At the south end of the ground floor corridor is a top-lit stair hall which leads to the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The first duke’s wife Emilia went on to marry her children’s tutor, William Ogilvie. This would have caused quite a scandal, and she and her husband lived quietly in Blackrock in Dublin at their house called Frascati (or Frescati), which no longer exists. She and the Duke of Leinster had had nineteen children! She had happy times when the children were young and their tutor would take them bathing in the sea near Frescati house. She and her second husband went on to have two daughters.

Frescati House, County Dublin, photograph by Robert French (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

A younger son of Emilia and the Duke of Leinster, Edward (1763-1798) became involved in an uprising in Dublin, inspired by the French Revolution, and he was put in prison as a traitor and where he died of wounds he’d received while resisting arrest.

Edward Fitzgerald (1763-1798)

Another son, Charles James (1756-1810) served in the Royal Navy. He also acted as M.P. for County Kildare between 1776 and 1790, Commissioner of Customs between 1789 and 1792 and M.P. for County Cavan between 1790 and 1797. He held the office of Muster Master-General of Ireland between 1792 and 1806 and Sheriff of County Down in 1798. He was M.P. for Ardfert between 1798 and 1800 and was created 1st Baron Lecale of Ardglass, Co. Down [Ireland] in 1800. He held the office of Member of Parliament (M.P.) for Arundel in England between January 1807 and April 1807.

A sister of Edward Fitzgerald (1763-1798), Emily Maria Margaret (1751-1818) married Charles Coote 1st Earl of Bellomont, County Cavan.

William Robert Fitzgerald, 2nd Duke of Leinster, K.P. (1749-1804), circle of Joshua Reynolds courtesy of Christie’s Irish Sale 2002.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us about the second duke:

He was returned as MP for Dublin city in 1767, though he was too young to take his seat, and it was only in October 1769 that he returned to Ireland to sit in parliament. He represented the constituency until 1773, supporting the government for most of this period. On learning that he was a freemason, the grand lodge of Irish freemasons rushed to make him their grand master and he served two terms (1770–72 and 1777–8). On 19 November 1773 he succeeded his father as 2nd duke of Leinster. The family home of Carton in Co. Kildare had been left to his mother but he, somewhat vainly, was determined to own it and purchased her life interest, a transaction that was the major source of his future indebtedness. His aunt, Lady Louisa Conolly, believed that he was ‘mighty queer about money’ and that his ‘distress’ about it was ‘the foundation of all that he does’ (HIP, iv, 160). In November 1775 he married Emilia Olivia Usher, only daughter and heir of St George Usher, Lord St George, a union that helped to ease some of his financial problems.

HUGH DOUGLAS HAMILTON portrait of Emilia Olivia née St. George, 2nd Duchess of Leinster courtesy of Bonhams Old Master Paintings 2018.

The 2nd Duke was active in politics. He died in 1804 and is buried in Kildare Abbey.

William Robert Fitzgerald (1749-1804) 2nd Duke of Leinster wearing Order of St. Patrick, by Gilbert Stuart, courtesy Christies.

One of William Robert Fitzgerald’s daughters, Emily Elizabeth (1778-1856) married John Joseph Henry of Straffan house in County Kildare, now the K Club. A son, Augustus Frederick (1791-1874) became the 3rd Duke of Leinster. He sold the town house in 1814. Since the Union in 1801 when there was no longer an Irish Parliament, a townhouse in Dublin was no longer essential. It was purchased by the Dublin Society, a group founded for “improving Husbandry, Manufactures and other useful arts and sciences.”

Augustus Frederick Fitzgerald (1791-1874), 3rd Duke of Leinster, engraver George Saunders after Stephen Catterson Smith, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

From 1815-1922 Leinster House was the Headquarters of the Royal Dublin Society – the “Royal” was added to the Society’s name in 1820. Rooms in the house were used to accommodate the Society’s library and museum as well as offices and meeting spaces. The original kitchen wing of the house was converted to laboratories and a lecture theatre. Gradually more buildings were added around the house, including sheds and halls for the Society’s events, namely the Spring Show and the Horse Show.

Note at Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about the RDS at Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. Configuration of Leinster house as RDS and centre of culture, learning and innovation the site of The Dublin Society (1815-1820) and the RDS (1820-1922). The School of Drawing (1845) was to the left, and later became the Metropolitan School of Art and the National College of Art and Design which continued as the National College of Art on this site until 1980, when it moved to Thomas Street and its facilities were incorporated into the adjacent National Library. The former kitchen and stable block were amended and expanded to host sculpture galleries, a stone yard, laboratories and lecture facilities. It had a 700 seat lecture theatre. To the right, Shelbourne Hall and the Agricultural Hall in the mid 19th century had facilities to display agricultural and industrial products, and it was later the site of the Museum of Archaeology. The Museum of Natural History (1857) and the National Gallery of Art (1860) were first developed for RDS collections, an dwere later expanded in conjunction with the Department of Science and Art/South Kensington and the Department of Agriculture and Technical Instruction.

Leinster Lawn was the site of industrial and agricultural exhibitions. In 1853, the Great Industrial Exhibition ran on the RDS grounds at Leinster House, just two years after Prince Albert’s Exhibition in the Crystal Palace in London. Constructed of iron, wood and glass, the Irish Industrial Exhibition building was paid for by William Dargan and installed by Richard Turner on Leinster Lawn in a matter of months. Its architect was John Benson, who was knighted for his efforts.

Spring Shows and Industries Fairs (1831-1880) and early Horse Shows (1864-1881) were also held on Leinster Lawn.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Opening of the Dublin Great Exhibition, Illustrated London News 4th June 1853, IIA 80/010.20/1. A successor to the Great Exhibition held in the Crystal Palace, London in 1851, the Great Industrial Exhibition ran on the RDS grounds at Leinster House from 12 May to 31st October 1853. As much a marvel as any of the objects on display was the edifice in which the exhibition was housed. Constructed of iron, wood and glass, the Irish Industrial Exhibition building was paid for by William Dargan and installed by Richard Turner on Leinster Lawn in a matter of months. Its architect was John Benson, who was knighted for his efforts.

The National Museum and National Library were built in 1890, and were designed by Thomas Newenham Deane and his son Thomas Manly Deane.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House. From 1815-1922 Leinster House was the Headquarters of the Royal Dublin Society. It became the focus of an extensive effort to provide Ireland with a full range of cultural institutions that grew out of activities and the collections of the Royal Dublin Society. In front is the National Library (1890) and the National Museum of Archaeology (1890). In the middle is the School of Drawing (1845) which later became the Metropolitan School of Art, and a Lecture Theatre (1896). At the rear is the National Gallery of Art (1860), the Natural History Museum (1857) and the Royal College of Science (1912).
The National Library. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The museum and library were designed as a pair of Early Renaissance rotundas facing each other. The rotundas have a single storey yellow sandstone Roman Doric colonnade surrounding them. Above is a row of circular niches. Above that are columns framing round headed windows and panels of red and white marble. The pavillions next to the rotundas have a rusticated ground floor, with Venetian windows on first floor level and Corinthian pilasters.

Top of the museum building next to Leinster House by Thomas Newenham Deane. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The Lecture Theatre was built in 1893, and was also designed by Thomas Newenham Deane. The lecture theatre is a horseshoe shaped top-lit galleried auditorium with a flat west end that originally accommodated a stage and lecture preparation rooms.

Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House: The RDS lecture theatre.

Single and paired cast iron Corinthian columns support the gallery in the former theatre. The building was appropriated as a temporary Dáil chamber in 1922 on Michael Collins’s recommendation, and in 1924 the government acquired Leinster House to be the seat of the Oireachtais. The theatre was remodelled: a new floor was inserted over the central block of seats to make a platform for the Ceann Comhairle, the clerk of the Dail, and the official reporters. The lower tier of seating was replaced with rows of mahogany and leather covered seats designed either by Hugh O’Flynn of the OPW, as the exhibition in the Irish Architectural Archive tells us, or by James Hicks & Sons according to Christine Casey, and the upper tiers became the press and public galleries. The stage was closed in and replaced by a press gallery and adjoining press rooms. The gallery was remodelled around 1930.

Dáil chamber at Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Dáil chamber at Leinster House. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Roof of the Dáil chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Entrance to Dáil chamber, overhead is a painting of the first sitting of Dáil Éireann, which took place in the Mansion House, Dublin, on 21 January 1919. The painting is by Thomas Ryan. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.
Irish Architectural Archive exhibition about Leinster House.

To enter Leinster house, you go through a security hut upon which a controversial sum was spent by the Office of Public Works. I love the way the hut goes around a large tree. I assume a large part of the cost of the hut was the beautiful marble countertops!

The elegant timber counter of the securty hut has lovely a marble top. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The security hut is built around an impressive tree. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

[1] MacDonnell, Randal. The Lost Houses of Ireland. A chronicle of great houses and the families who lived in them. Weidenfeld and Nicolson. London, 2002.

[2] Casey, Christine. The Buildings of Ireland: Dublin. The City within the Grand and Royal Canals and the Circular Road with the Phoenix Park. Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2005.

[3] Dictionary of Irish Biography, https://www.dib.ie/biography/fitzgerald-james-a3157

Portumna Castle, County Galway, an Office of Public Works property

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

General information: 090 974 1658, portumnacastle@opw.ie

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/portumna-castle-and-gardens/:

Built by [Richard Bourke 1572-1635] the fourth earl of Clanricarde, Portumna Castle was the de Burgo family power base for centuries.

The castle is a unique example of the transitional Irish architecture of the early 1600s. Its bold design combines elements of medieval and Renaissance style that complement each other perfectly.

A major fire in 1826 left the castle a roofless shell, but the state began to bring it back from ruin in the 1960s. Restoration work continues to this day.

The dramatic walk up to the building includes charming formal gardens, which create an enchanting sense of the original seventeenth-century setting. The walled kitchen garden is particularly memorable.

The castle enjoys a sensational view of Lough Derg. The ground floor is open to the public and houses an exhibition that brings the story of the castle and the de Burgo family to life. It is right beside the River Shannon and Portumna Forest Park, which makes it a great choice for a delightful day out.

Ashlar limestone Morrison, or Gothic Entrance gates, Portumna Castle. They are attributed to Richard Morrison, built about 1805, flanked by “octagonal piers with reeded colonettes on moulded plinths, with moulded bands and cornices, carved crocketed reeded pyramidal capstones with fleur-de-lys finials, vegetal detail to friezes, and supporting decorative cast-iron double-leaf and single-leaf gates.” [1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A gate lodge, probably designed by Richard Morrison. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The castle is a three-storey semi-fortified Jacobean house with raised basement and dormer attic, built c.1618, facing north and comprising rectangular block having four-bay long sides and three-bay short sides, flanked by square-plan projecting corner towers with one-bay sides. The machicolation over the main entrance has an oculus opening and pedestals with ball finials, and is supported on stone corbels. There are paired ashlar limestone chimneystacks to the middle of the roof which have a plan of five stacks by three parallel to axis. I thought these chimneystacks look rather modern and am not sure they look as they would have back in the 1600s and 1700s. The windows have stone mullioned windows with leaded glazing. Dormer windows have pitched slate roofs and two-light timber casement windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Richard Bourke 4th Earl of Clanricarde was brought up and educated in England. He fought on the side of the English against Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone, and was knighted on the field at the battle of Kinsale. He was a protege of Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and married Frances Walsingham, who was the widow of the poet Philip Sydney (1554-1586) and of Robert Devereux, the 2nd Earl of Essex (1566-1601), favourite of Queen Elizabeth I.

Portrait of Frances Walsingham, along with her husband Robert Devereux, 2nd Earl of Essex, and in the small picture, Sir Philip Sydney.

The castle was built around 1616 and is a mixture of defensive Elizabethan/Jacobean building and a manor house, marking the transition in building styles. In this is it similar to Rathfarnham Castle in Dublin, which was built around 1583. It retains defensive structures such as machicolations (floor openings in the battlements, through which stones, or other objects, could be dropped on attackers), shot holes, and strong corner towers, and surrounding walls with gunloops and crenellated towers.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Georgian Gothic gateways lead to the avenue up to the house. The seventeenth century Tuscan gateway, contemporaneous with the castle, is one of the earliest examples of the use of classical orders in the country and is the superb work of a skilled craftsman. Its decorative scheme reflects the details of the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Doorway entrance with round headed door opening in a carved limestone doorcase with side pilasters and and a scroll keystone, framed in square recess surmounted by moulded cornice on corbels, with scroll brackets on each end and supporting obelisks flanked by strapwork on each side of glazed elliptical oculus with carved finial. [2] Entrance is up limestone steps with carved balustrade. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The back is similar to the front, except for the addition in around 1797 of a curved porch of Jacobean style in the middle of the garden front (probably in the time of the 12th Earl of Clanricarde who died in December 1797 and was elevated to be a Marquess). I loved the curving steps up to this round door entrance.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Henry De Burgh (1743-1797), 1st Marquess (and 12th Earl) of Clanricarde (2nd creation), as a Knight of St Patrick Date after 1789 by Engraver William Sedgwick, English, 1748 – 1800 After Robert Hunter, Irish, 1715/1720-c.1803. Photograph courtesy of the National Gallery of Ireland.
The National Inventory describes the addition: “Curved porch to south elevation added c.1797 and having roughcast rendered walls with moulded string course to battlements, latter having carved ball finial to middle, square-headed two-light window openings having chamfered limestone surrounds, window to basement having chamfered mullion and that to ground floor having mullion and transom. Glazed elliptical oculus over ground floor window. Pointed arch door openings to east and west faces, with chamfered limestone surrounds, moulded cornices and timber doors, accessed by flights of limestone steps.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This board tells us that William de Burgo (d. 1205) came to Ireland with Prince John in 1185, and was granted lands stretching from Cashel to Limerick. In 1193 he married the daughter of Donal Mor O’Brien, King of Thomond, thus securing a good relationship with the native rulers. His son Richard (d. 1241) suceeded him and was known as Lord of Connaught. Richard began the feudalisation of Connaught after military conquest. Richard was succeeded by his son Richard (d. 1248) and then Walter, who was created 1st Earl of Ulster.

Before building Portumna Castle, the principal seat of the Earls of Clanricarde was a castle in Loughrea. As well as building Portumna, the 4th Earl refurbished the castles at Aughnanure and Athenry, amongst others. The Clanricarde earls also owned Clarecastle, Oranmore and Kilcolgan castles.

Aughnanure Castle County Galway, photograph courtesy of OPW website. This was also refurbished by the 4th Earl of Clanricarde.
Athenry Castle, County Galway, photograph courtesy of OPW website. This was also refurbished by the 4th Earl of Clanricarde.

The descendants of William de Burgo adopted Irish customs and clothing. Ulick Burke of Clanricarde (d. 1544) became Earl of Clanricarde and Baron of Dunkellin, and was one of the earliest Irish Chiefs to accept Henry VIII’s policy of “surrender and regrant,” accepting Henry VIII as his sovereign.

Ulick’s son Richard, 2nd Earl of Clanricarde, fought the Irish for the British crown.

The castle passed to the 4th Earl’s son Ulick who succeeded as 5th Earl of Clanricarde (d. 1657) and who was created 1st Marquess of Clanricarde. and then to a cousin, Richard (d. 1666), who became 6th Earl of Clanricarde.

Portrait of Ulick, 5th Earl of Clanricarde (d. 1657). He was created Marquess of Clanricarde. He was Lord Deputy and Commander in Chief of Royalist forces against Cromwell in 1649. His Irish estates were lost but then recovered by his widow after the restoration of Charles II to the throne.

The 6th Earl married Elizabeth Butler, daughter of Walter Butler, 11th Earl of Ormond and had daughters so the title passed to his brother William (d. 1687), 7th Earl of Clanricarde.

The 7th Earl’s son Richard the 8th Earl (died 1708) succeeded his father and despite marrying several times had no male heirs, so was succeeded by his brother John, 9th Earl (d. 1722). John was created Baron Burke of Bophin, County Galway, by King James II. He fought on the Jacobite side and was taken prisoner at the Battle of Aughrim in 1691. He was declared an outlaw and the Clanricarde estates were forfeited to the King, but the outlawry was reversed twelve years later on the payment of a whopping £25,000. His son Michael the 10th Earl succeeded him (d. 1726) and fortunately he married well, to Anne Smith daughter of John Smith, Chancellor of the Exchequer, widow of Hugh Parker of Meldford Hall, Sussex, whose income helped to restore the family fortunes.

The 11th Earl, John Smith de Burgh (1720-1782) changed his surname from Bourke to De Burgh.

Henry de Burgh, 12th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1742 – 1797), Attributed to John Smart (British, 1741-1811) courtesy of https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6249637
Henry de Burgh, (1743-1797) 1st Marquess of Clanricarde 2nd creation, as Knight of St. Patrick, by engraver William Sedgewick, after Robert Hunter, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

The 13th Earl, John Thomas De Burgh (1744-1808), brother of the 12th Earl, was created again 1st Earl of Clanricarde, an Irish Peer, on 29 December 1800, with special remainder to his daughters, if he had no male heir. One daughter, Hester, married Howe Peter Browne, 2nd Marquess of Sligo, and the other, Emily, married Thomas St Lawrence, 3rd Earl of Howth.

John Thomas De Burgh (1744-1808) 13th Earl of Clanricarde was created 1st Earl of Clanricarde, Co. Galway.

His son, Ulick (1802-1874), became the 1st Marquess Clanricarde (of the 3rd creation), and also Baron of Somerhill, Kent. It was during his tenure that the fire occurred. He married Harriet Canning, daughter of Prime Minister George Canning. Ulick was described as being immensely rich.

Ulick John De Burgh, 14th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1802-1874).
Harriet Canning, Countess of Clanricarde (1804-1876), married to Ulick John De Burgh, 14th Earl and 1st Marquess of Clanricarde (1802-1874).

Amazing work has been done to reconstruct the castle after the fire. The Commissioners of Public Works acquired the castle in 1968 for preservation as a national monument.

Portumna Castle 1946, photograph from Dublin City Archives and Library. [3]
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The sign board tells us that the Commissioners of Public Works acquired the castle in 1968 for preservation as a National Monument.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The information board tells us that the collapsed spine wall and oak floor beams were reinstated to the original design, based on detailed survey work of surviving features and documentary evidence, including early floor layout plans. The limestone handrail in front of the building was reinstated based on one surviving fragment.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. The board tells us that the roof trusses are Irish oak. Studies were made of surviving roof timbers of buildings that would have been built around the same time, such as Carrick-on-Suir castle and Rathfarnham Castle.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Window mullions were repaired with resin.
There was a carriageway road built in either the late 19th or early 19th century, and a well in what was the kitchen.

After the fire the family built a Ruskinian Gothic mansion by Sir Thomas Newenham Deane at the opposite end of the park. Mark Bence-Jones tells us that the new house was not much lived in by the family, for 2nd and last Marquess of Clanricarde, who succeeded 1874, was “the notorious miser and eccentric who spent his life in squalid rooms in London and dressed like a tramp.

The 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning, “the notorious miser and eccentric who spent his life in squalid rooms in London and dressed like a tramp.”

The 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning, who died 1916, left Portumna to his great-nephew, Viscount Henry George Charles Lascelles, afterwards 6th Earl of Harewood and husband of Princess Mary (daughter of King George V), because it was said that he was the only member of his family who ever went to see him. The 1862 house was burnt 1922; after which Lord Harewood, when he came here, occupied a small house on the place. Portumna was sold when he died in 1947. [4]

Elizabeth de Burgh, who married Henry Thynne Lascelles, 4th Earl of Harewood. She was the sister of the 2nd Marquess, Hubert George De Burgh-Canning.
Pictured, the marriage of Princess Mary to Viscount Lascelles.

The castle had a long gallery on the second storey, similar to that in the Ormond Castle in Carrick-on-Suir. Long galleries originated in Italy and France and became fashionable in England after 1550. They were often sparsely furnished and were used for indoor exercise.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021.
The view from the front of the castle towards the gates. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside Portumna Castle, so far the ground floor has been restored and it houses an informative exhibition about the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The exhibition tells us about various positions of servants in a castle. I was amused by the description of the job of a footman. We are told that they were kept largely for “ornamental” purposes and had to be fairly tall and good-looking, and their wages even rose with their height! Some padded their silk stockings to make their calves look more shapely!

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Work is still being carried out on the castle, as you can see from the scaffolding on the side.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The side has a round-arched door and a small oculus window above. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The stables have been renovated into a cafe.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There’s also a walled garden at Portumna Castle.

Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portumna Castle, County Galway, July 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30343036/portumna-castle-portumna-portumna-demesne-portumna-co-galway

[2] p. 233, Bence-Jones, Mark.

[3] https://repository.dri.ie/catalog?f%5Broot_collection_id_ssi%5D%5B%5D=pk02rr951&mode=objects&search_field=all_fields&view=grid

[4] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30343036/portumna-castle-portumna-portumna-demesne-portumna-co-galway

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny, an Office of Public Works property

The garden front of Kilkenny Castle, photograph by macmillan media 2016 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. It sits on the banks of the River Nore. [1]

From the OPW website:

Built in the twelfth century, Kilkenny Castle was the principal seat of the Butlers, earls, marquesses and dukes of Ormond for almost 600 years. Under the powerful Butler family, Kilkenny grew into a thriving and vibrant city. Its lively atmosphere can still be felt today.

The castle, set in extensive parkland, was remodelled in Victorian times. It was formally taken over by the Irish State in 1969 and since then has undergone ambitious restoration works. It now welcomes thousands of visitors a year.

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by unknown 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]

Kilkenny Castle has been standing for over eight hundred years, dominating Kilkenny City and the South East of Ireland. Originally built in the 13th century by William Marshall, 4th Earl of Pembroke as a symbol of Norman control, Kilkenny Castle reflected the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormonde for over six hundred years. [2]

The Butlers fought for the king in Ireland, France and Scotland, and held positions of power including Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, the monarch’s representative in Ireland. Mark Bence-Jones tells us that several monarchs have stayed in Kilkenny Castle during the course of its history, including Richard II, James II, Willam III, Edvard VII and George V. [3]

In 1935 the Ormondes ceased to live in the castle, which for the next thirty years stood empty and deteriorating. In 1967 James Arthur Norman Butler (1893-1971), 6th Marquess and 24th Earl of Ormonde sold the Castle to the Kilkenny Castle Restoration Committee for £50. Two years later it went into state ownership.

William Marshall (about 1146-1219) married Isabel the daughter of “Strongbow” Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke. With the marriage, he gained land and eventually the title Earl of Pembroke. Isabel inherited the title of 4th Countess of Pembroke “suo jure” i.e. herself (her brother, who died a minor, was the 3rd Earl). Hence William Marshall became the 4th Earl through his wife, but then then was created the 1st Earl of Pembroke himself ten years after their marriage. They settled in Ireland, beginning with setting up the town of New Ross and then restoring Kilkenny town and castle – a castle had pre-dated them, according to the Kilkenny Castle website.

The Marriage of Aoife and Strongbow, Richard de Clare 2nd Earl of Pembroke at Waterford in 1170, by Daniel Maclise, in National Gallery of Ireland. Conceived for the decoratino of the Palace of Westminster, the painting is an ambiguous representation of the victorious Normans and the vanquished Irish. Strongbow places his foot upon a fallen Celtic cross, King Dermot looks on in alarm, and an elderly musician slumps of his harp. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The present-day castle is based on the stone fortress that Marshall designed, comprising an irregular rectangular fortress with a drum-shaped tower at each corner. Three of these towers survive to this day.

Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny, overhead shot courtesy Air Experience AFTA website.
Kilkenny Castle, photograph by Mark Wesley 2016 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]

There is an introductory film for visitors in the one of the old round towers. Inside, you can see the thickness of the walls.

One of the three ancient corner towers of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

By 1200, Kilkenny was the capital of Norman Leinster and New Ross was its principal port. The Marshalls also founded the Cistercian abbeys at Tintern in County Wexford and Duiske in Graiguenamanagh, County Kilkenny, as well as the castles at Ferns and Enniscorthy. Marshall died and was buried in England. [4]

Tintern Abbey, County Wexford, 15th March 2025. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1317, the de Clare family sold the Kilkenny castle to Hugh Despenser. The Despensers were absentee landlords. In 1391 the Despensers sold the castle to James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormond, 9th Chief Butler of Ireland (1360–1405).

The first Butler to come to Ireland was Theobald Walter Le Botiller or Butler (1165–1206), 1st Baron Butler, 1st Chief Butler of Ireland.

In 1185, Prince John landed at Waterford and around this time he granted the hereditary office of Chief Butler of Ireland to Theobald. Before this, there was a Chief Bulter of England, a position Theobald held, but the office of Chief Butler of Ireland was freshly created. The hereditary office was a position of “serjeanty.” Under feudalism in France and England during the Middle Ages, tenure by serjeanty was a form of tenure in return for a specified duty other than standard knight-service. The duty of this serjeanty was to to attend the Kings of England at their coronation and to pour their first cup of wine. [5]

It is said that he was called “Le Botiller” because he received the monopoly of the taxes on wines being imported into Ireland. Timothy William Ferres tells us that it was Theobald, 4th Butler (1242-85) who received the prisage, from King Edward I. As the Chief Butler had to provide the wine, he was given this “prisage” to help perform his role. This privilege only ceased in 1811 when the right was purchased back by the Crown from the Marquess of Ormonde for £216,000. [6]

Theobald the 1st Chief Butler was the first of the family to use the surname Butler. He was involved in the Irish campaigns of King Henry II and King John of England. He built Arklow Castle in County Wicklow. His descendant, the 4th Chief Butler, constructed a stone fortress on the site in the 1280s which became the family’s regional stronghold.

Conjectural reconstruction drawing of Arklow Castle, County Wicklow by Sara Nylund courtesy County Wicklow Heritage.

Over the following centuries, as the Butlers grew into Earls and eventually Dukes of Ormonde centered in Kilkenny, they retained Arklow Castle and the surrounding lands by appointing constables. The 1st Duke of Ormond sold Arklow Castle in 1714 to John Allen of Stillorgan. Today only fragments remain. [see https://surnamearts.com/history/butler/butler-castles-in-ireland/ ]

Theobald died in 1206 and was buried at Wotheney Abbey in Limerick.

He is also said to have built Nenagh Castle.

The OPW website tells us that Nenagh Castle is a fine example of a Norman structure, dating between 1200 – 1220. There are 101 steps in total to reach the top of the tower, and it is five storeys high. The second floor is believed to have once been the main public hall, while the third floor was the lord’s private residence. What stands today is the last remaining tower of three, which were surrounded by a curtain wall. There would have also been a two-towered gatehouse, and it was likely defended by a moat. The castle changed hands multiple times throughout its history, initially acting as the main residence for Theobald Walter, and was the seat of his ancestors, the Butler family, until the mid-14th century. The Mac Ibrien family owned the building in the 15th century, and was returned to the Butler’s in 1533. Photograph by Gramscis Cousin, CC BY-SA 3.0

His son, Theobald le Botiller (1200–1230) 2nd Baron Butler was summoned in 1229 cum equis et armis (Latin: “with horses and arms”) to attend the King in Brittany. He died on 19 July 1230 in Poitou, France, and was buried in the Abbey of Arklow, County Wicklow.

Timothy William Ferres gives us an excellent summary of the Butler genealogy and there are great notes on the Kilkenny Castle website. [6]

The 2nd Baron Butler’s widow was his second wife, Roesia/Rohese de Verdun (c. 1204–1247). She became one of the most powerful women in 13th century Ireland. In 1236 she built Castleroche in County Louth to defend her lands against Irish raiders. The castle was practically impregnable thanks to its position and design.

Castleroche, County Louth, built by Rohese de Verdun, wife of Theobald le Botiller (1200–1230) 2nd Baron Butler. Photograph courtesy of Tourism Ireland.

Theobald Butler 3rd Baron acquired considerable property by marrying Margery, eldest daughter of Richard de Burgh (ancestor of the Earls of Clanricarde). He served as Chief Justiciar of Ireland. His son Theobald (1242-85) succeeded as 4th Baron Butler sat in the Parliament of Ireland. He assisted King Edward I in his wars in Scotland. By his marriage, the 4th Baron acquired considerable land in England.

The 5th and 6th Barons were both sons of the 4th Baron. Theobald’s son Edmond (c.1270-1321) succeeded his brother as 6th Baron and 6th Chief Butler of Ireland in 1299. He was appointed Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1312. He married Joan, the daughter of the 1st Earl of Kildare. In 1315 Edward II granted him the manors of Carrick-on-Suir and Roscrea in Tipperary, with the title of Earl of Carrick. His descendants from his second son, John, later became Earls of Carrick and also Viscounts Ikerrin.

Roscrea Castle, County Tipperary, August 2024. It was granted to the Butlers of Ormond in 1315 who held it until the early 18th Century. The castle as we see it today was built from 1332. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Earl of Carrick’s son James Butler (c. 1305-38) who succeeded as 7th Baron married Eleanor, whose mother was a daughter of King Edward I. In consequence of this alliance, in 1328 King Edward III named James Earl of Ormond.

Probably James Butler (c. 1305-1337), the 1st Earl of Ormond. St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

His son James Butler (1331–1382) 2nd Earl of Ormond was called the Noble Earl due to his links with King Edward I. He served as Lord Justice of Ireland.

James Butler (1360–1405) who succeeded as 3rd Earl of Ormond on his father’s death made Gowran Castle his usual residence so was called Earl of Gowran. The original Gowran Castle was built in the late 14th century by the Earls of Ormonde. Badly damaged in the Cromwellian wars, it was all but a ruin when Charles Agar acquired a lease of it about 1660 and repaired it. After a fire in 1713, his son James Agar rebuilt it. The house was rebuilt for the 2nd Viscount Clifden in 1817-19 to the designs of William Robertson. 

In 1391 James Butler 3rd Earl of Ormond purchased Kilkenny Castle. In 1399 King Richard II stayed in Kilkenny Castle, where he was entertained for fourteen days.

One of the three old towers of Kilkenny Castle, photograph by Finn Richards, 2015 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]
Two of the old corner towers of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Carvings on the marble fireplace in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle, designed by J. H. Pollen, depict scenes from the history of the Butler family. Starting on the left, the first panel shows the buying the castle by the first Earl of Ormond in 1391 from the Despenser family – money changing hands is shown. The second panel depicts Theobald Fitzwalter acting as Chief Butler to the newly crowned King of England highlighting their ancient royal privilege and upon which their surname of Butler is based. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Marble Fireplace is made of Carrara marble and was designeded by J. H. Pollen in a quasi-medieval style. It was supplied by the firm of Ballyntyne of Dorset Street, Dublin. On the third panel, you see King Richard the Second acting as godfather for James, 4th Earl (1392-1452). The centrepiece is the family crest which can also be seen over the arch and gateway, with the family motto “comme je trouve”- “as I find”, as well as the heraldic shield guarded, the falcon, the griffin (a legendary creature with the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle) and the ducal coronet. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James 3rd Earl was succeeded by his eldest son, James, 4th Earl (1392-1452), who was called The White Earl, and was esteemed for his learning. James was one of the most important figures in Irish politics in the early 15th century. He was Lord Justice of Ireland in 1407, and again in 1440. He died in 1452.

He was succeeded by his eldest son James (1420-61) 5th Earl. He married Avice Stafford in 1438, by whom he inherited substantial lands in the west country of England. After the death of his first wife, he married Eleanor Beaufort, sister of the Duke of Somerset. In 1451, was was made Lord Deputy of Ireland and the next year, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. He served as Lord High Treasurer in 1455 and was installed a Knight of the Garter.

The Butler Family become embroiled in the War of the Roses in the 15th Century. When the Wars of the Roses gripped England from the 1450s through to 1487, the opposing houses of Lancaster (the red rose) and York (the white rose) were supported by the earls of Ormond and Kildare, respectively. The 5th Earl of Ormond was loyal to the Lancastrians and Henry VI, who made him Earl of Wiltshire in England. The title of Earl of Wiltshire expired when the throne passed into the hands of the Yorkists in 1461, and the 5th Earl was captured and executed at Newcastle in 1461. In England, Richard Plantagenet 3rd Duke of York’s son came to the throne as King Edward IV.

An old corner tower of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After the execution of his brother the 5th Earl in 1461, John (1422–1477), who succeeded as the 6th Earl, fled to Scotland with the Lancastrians. He attempted a new Lancastrian uprising in Ireland but the revolt ended with the defeat of his kinsmen by the 8th Earl of Desmond at the Battle of Piltown in the summer of 1462. John was not present at the battle. He went into exile in Portugal and France from 1464. He returned to England 1470-71 on the restoration of Henry VI.

Edward IV, of the House of York, was returned to the throne, however, in 1471. Richard III became king in 1473, until he died in 1475, when Henry VII became king. Henry VII of the Lancaster dynasty married Edward IV’s daughter Elizabeth of York, thus uniting the families.

The 6th Earl of Ormond’s brother Thomas (1426-1515), who succeeded as 7th Earl, was attainted as a Lancastrian, but restored by King Henry VII. He was known as ‘Earl of the Wool.’ Under Henry VII he managed to recover the family position in England and his lands were restored. He was appointed Chamberlain to the Queen in 1486 and Ambassador to Brittany in 1491 and Burgundy in 1497.

From the 1490s he faced troubles in Ireland, as he lacked a male heir. His two daughters became co-heiresses who inherited the Butler estates in England. His daughter Margaret Butler (1465–1537) married Sir William Boleyn and they were the grandparents of Anne Boleyn, Queen of England, second wife of Henry VIII.

When the 7th Earl of Ormond died in 1515, the next male in the family line was Piers Butler (1467-1539). Both the 7th Earl and Piers descended from the 3rd Earl of Ormond. Piers Butler was the son James Butler and Sabh Kavanagh. He was the great grandnephew of James, the 3rd Earl. Before the 7th Earl’s death, Piers’s father laid claims to the Ormond land and title, as the 7th Earl lived mostly abroad.

Someone else could claim to be heir of the 7th Earl of Ormond. James Butler 6th Earl had illegitimate children, though he never married. His son James was called James Ormond, or James Dubh Butler. He was the 7th Earl’s agent in Ireland while the 7th Earl lived in England. Piers Butler murdered him, but was pardoneed for the murder.

Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Butler genealogy.

In 1485 Piers Butler married Margaret Fitzgerald, daughter of the 8th Earl of Kildare – a political marriage to merge the two dynasties.

In 1498, he and Margaret had seized Kilkenny Castle and made it their chief residence. Through her considerable efforts, the standard of living inside the castle was greatly improved.

Margaret was sometimes styled the “Great Countess of Ormond.” She signed herself “Margaret Fitzgerald of the Geraldines,” and occupied herself in legal matters regarding her family and the Ormond estates. She worked with Piers to develop the estate, expanding and rebuilding manor houses. She also established Kilkenny Grammar School. She urged Piers to bring over skilled weavers and artificers from Flanders and helped establish industries for the production of carpets, tapestries and diapers (a type of cloth). Margaret and her husband commissioned significant additions to the castles of Granagh, and rebuilt Gowran Castle, which had been originally constructed in 1385 by James Butler, 3rd Earl of Ormond. She is also said to have built Ballyragget Castle in County Kilkenny.

Ballyragget castle, County Kilkenny, by Gabriel Berenger, courtesy Royal Irish Academy MS 3 C 30/54.

As Anne Boleyn grew in King Henry VIII’s favour, so did her father Thomas. In 1529, the King persuaded Piers Butler to relinquish the title Earl of Ormond, and the king gave this title to Thomas Boleyn, Viscount Rochford. Piers was created, instead, Earl of Ossory. The king hoped Piers would improve the Crown’s grip over southern Ireland. Piers gained much from Crown.

Thomas Boleyn, Earl of Ormond, died without issue in 1539 and the King restored Piers Butler Earl of Ossory to his original title of Ormond. Piers succeeded as the 8th Earl of Ormond.

Piers is buried in St Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny with his wife.

St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Piers Butler (1467-1539) Earl of Ossory, 8th Earl of Ormond, and his wife Margaret Fitzgerald (d. 1542), St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Piers Butler (1467-1539) Earl of Ossory, 8th Earl of Ormond, St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Piers Butler (1467-1539) Earl of Ossory, 8th Earl of Ormond, St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A dog, symbol of loyalty, at the feet of Piers Butler (1467-1539) Earl of Ossory, 8th Earl of Ormond, St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Margaret Fitzgerald (d. 1542) wife of Piers Butler, Earl of Ossory, 8th Earl of Ormond. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Piers and Margaret’s daughters married well, continuing to build ties with other powerful families. They had daughters Ellen (d. 1597) who married Donough O’Brien (d. 1553) 1st Earl of Thomond; Margaret married Barnaby FitzPatrick, 1st Baron of Upper Ossory; Joan married James Butler, 10th Baron Dunboyne; Eleanor married Thomas Butler 1st Baron Caher; Katherine married Richard Power, 1st Baron le Power and Coroghmore first and secondly, James FitzJohn FitzGerald, 13th Earl of Desmond; Ellice married Gerald FitzJohn FitzGerald (d. 1553, father of 1st Viscount Decies).

Piers’s eldest son James (1496–1546) succeeded him in 1539 as 9th Earl of Ormond, 15th Chief Butler, and 2nd Earl of Ossory. Piers’s second son, Richard (d.1571), was created 1st Viscount Mountgarret in 1550. Another son, John Butler (d. 1570) who lived in Kilcash, County Tipperary, was father of Walter (1569-1632) 11th Earl of Ormond.

James Butler (1504-1564), Soldier, 9th Earl of Ormond and Ossory by Francesco Bartolozzi, published by John Chamberlaine, after Hans Holbein the Younger publ. 1797, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG D39383.

In 1520 there was a plan to marry the eldest son James to a daughter of Thomas Boleyn in an effort to end the controversy over the earldom – but nothing came of it. James married Joan Fitzgerald, daughter of James Fitzgerald, 11th Earl of Desmond.

James was nicknamed ‘The Lame’ because of a limp he acquired in the 1513 invasion of France as part of Henry VII’s army. He had been reared at the Court of Henry VIII and he was created Viscount of Thurles during the lifetime of his father. Henry VIII appointed him Lord Treasurer of Ireland (1532) and he was given seven religious houses on the dissolution of the Monasteries. He was held in high regard by Henry, with the decline of the Geraldines. He died 1546, aged 42, of food poisoning, eleven days after attending a supper at Ely House, Holborn. He and the seventeen of his household who died with him may have been deliberately poisoned. His host, John Dudley, 1st Duke of Northumberland had no motive as he had no quarrel with Ormond. Historian James Murray suggests that Anthony St Leger, Lord Deputy of Ireland, may have been invovled. [8]

James Butler (d. 1546) 9th Earl of Ormond, 2nd Earl of Ossory. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A dog, symbol of loyalty, at the feet of James Butler (d. 1546) 9th Earl of Ormond, 2nd Earl of Ossory, St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

As well as his heir, Thomas, the 9th Earl also had a son Edmond (d. 1602) who lived in Cloughgrenan, County Carlow, who gave rise to the Baronets of Cloughgrenan.

As a young boy, Thomas Butler (c.1531-1614), later 10th Earl of Ormond, was fostered with Rory O’More, son of the lord of Laois before being sent to London to be educated with the future Edward VI. He was the first member of the Butler family to be brought up in the protestant faith. In 1546, he inherited the Ormond earldom following the sudden death of his father.

Thomas Butler 10th Earl of Ormond by Steven Van der Meulen. He is holding a wheelcock pistol with his coat of arms in the upper left corner.

Thomas Butler was highly regarded by Queen Elizabeth, to whom he was related through her mother Anne Boleyn. Anne Boleyn was the granddaughter of the 7th Earl of Ormond making Elizabeth and Thomas cousins. Due to his dark hair, he was called “Black Tom,” and the Queen called him “her dark husband” and it is even rumoured that she had a son with him.

Queen Elizabeth promoted him to Lord Treasurer of Ireland in 1559.

Thomas Butler (c.1531-1614), 10th Earl of Ormond, artist unknown. Thomas married three times but left no heir and was succeeded by his nephew Walter Butler 11th Earl of Ormond. He died in 1614 and was buried in St Canice’s cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The OPW website tells us that after the death of his mother, Joan Fitzgerald, the old feud between the Butlers and the Fitzgeralds broke out again and Black Tom defeated the Earl of Desmond at Affane (1565), the last pitched battle in Britain or Ireland.

He was made Knight of the Garter in 1588 and Earl Marshal of England in 1591.

See my entry about the Ormond Castle at Carrick-on-Suir for more on “Black Tom.” https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/09/05/ormond-castle-carrick-on-suir-county-tipperary-an-opw-property/

Carrick-On-Suir, Co Tipperary Courtesy Tipperary Tourism photo by Kerry Kissane All Around Ireland 2021

The Desmond Rebellions in Munster in 1569–1573 and 1579–1583 were motivated primarily by the desire to maintain the independence of feudal lords from the English monarch but also had an element of religious antagonism between Catholic Geraldines (Fitzgeralds, Earls of Desmond) and the Protestant English state. Some of Thomas the 10th Earl’s brothers supported the Fitzgeralds in their rebellion: Edmund Butler (1534-1602) of Cloghgrennan, County Carlow, Edward and Piers (1541-1601). Edmund, Edward and Piers were attainted in April 1570. That meant that Edmund ceased to be Ormond’s heir presumptive and the next brother, John Butler of Kilcash, took his place. However, John predeceased Thomas, in 1570, and John’s eldest son Walter Butler (1559–1633) became heir presumptive. 

Kilcash Castle, County Tipperary, photograph by Mike Searle.

Thomas married three times but left no direct male heir. He died in 1614 and was buried in St Canice’s cathedral, Kilkenny. He had a daughter, Elizabeth. She married her cousin, Theobald Butler (1565-1614), 1st Viscount Tulleophelim, who was the son of Black Tom’s brother Edmund (1534-1602) of Cloghgrennan, County Carlow. He died, however, the same year as Black Tom.

King James then orchestrated the marriage of Elizabeth Butler to his Scottish favourite Richard Preston (1589-1628) 1st Baron Dingwall. James I made sure that Black Tom’s daughter Elizabeth (1590-1628) inherited most of the Ormond estate.

Although he did not inherit the majority of the land, Walter Butler (1559–1633) inherited the title and became the 11th Earl of Ormond. Unlike his uncle, who had been raised at Court and reared a Protestant, Walter was Catholic. Because of his devotion to his faith, he was called Walter of the Beads.

Walter Butler’s claim to the family estates was blocked by King James I. Walter he spent much time and money in litigation opposing the King’s decision and was imprisoned for eight years in the Fleet, London, as a result. He was released 1625. The King gave Richard Preston the title Earl of Desmond, as the Fitzgeralds had lost the title of Earl of Desmond due to their rebellion.

The Butler genealogy.

Walter’s son Thomas, Viscount Thurles, predeceased him, so when he died his nine-year-old grandson James (1610-1688) became the heir to the titles. The estates, including Kilkenny Castle, had passed to Elizabeth and her husband Richard Preston Baron Dingwall. Before he died, Walter arranged a marriage between his heir James and Elizabeth and Richard Preston’s daughter in order to unite the estates with the Earl of Ormond title. In 1629 James married his cousin Elizabeth Preston and reunited the Ormond estates.

Elizabeth Poyntz (1588-1673), mother of the 1st Duke of Ormond, painted by John Michael Wright, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James Butler (1610-88) 12th Earl of Ormond (later 1st Duke of Ormond) was the eldest son of Thomas Butler, Viscount Thurles, and his wife Elizabeth Poyntz. Following his father’s death in 1619, 9-year-old James was made a royal ward, and was educated at Lambeth Palace under the tutelage of George Abbot, Archbishop of Canterbury.

James Butler (1610-1688) 1st Duke of Ormonde by Willem Wissing circa 1680-1685, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 5559.
Elizabeth Preston, (1616-1684) Baroness Dingwall, Countess of Ormond, later Duchess of Ormond, with her son Thomas, Lord Ossory (1634-1680), attributed to David des Granges (1611-1671/72), courtesy Office of Public Works. She was the daughter of Richard Preston, Baron Dingwall, Earl of Desmond and his wife Elizabeth Butler, only daughter and heiress of Thomas Butler, 10th Earl of Ormond. On the death of her parents in 1628, Elizabeth was made a royal ward and the rights of her marriage were granted to the Earl of Holland, who sold it for £15,000. She married her cousin James Butler, Viscount Thurles, later 1st Duke of Ormond in 1629, thus reuniting the Ormond titles and properties.
In the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle: James Butler 1st Duke of Ormond painted by John Michael Wright (1617-1694); in centre, Elizabeth Poyntz (1588-1673), mother of the 1st Duke of Ormond, painted by John Michael Wright; and Elizabeth Preston (1615-1684), wife of the 1st Duke of Ormond, with her son Thomas, who became the 6th Earl of Ossory. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The marriage took place on Christmas 1629. In 1630, James and his wife Elizabeth lived in the castle in Carrick-on-Suir.

James succeeded to the Ormond titles in 1633 on the death of his grandfather, Walter Butler, 11th Earl of Ormond. James and Elizabeth Butler’s estates in Ireland consisted of close to 300,000 acres, spread over seven counties, mostly in Counties Kilkenny and Tipperary. However, both he and his wife inherited debts. Debt was to plague James all his life.

James Butler 1st Duke of Ormond painted by John Michael Wright (1617-1694), Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Marble Fireplace of the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. In the fifth panel, the 1st Duke of Ormond can be seen entering the Irish House of Lords still bearing his sword. Indeed, he refused to hand his weapon over as were the protocols in case it was used inside during an argument; this became known as The Act of Defiance. The sixth panel next to this symbolizes the charity of the Butler family showing Lady Ormonde giving alms to the poor. Finally, the sixth and last panel portrays the First Duke of Ormond’s triumphant return to Dublin from exile on the Restoration of Charles the Second in 1662, when he also established the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham and founded the Phoenix Park. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James 12th Earl of Ormond and Elizabeth had eight sons and two daughters but only three of those sons survived infancy: Thomas, later Earl of Ossory, born in 1634, John, later Earl of Gowran, also born in 1634, and Richard, later 1st Earl of Arran in 1639. Their daughters were Mary, born in 1640, later Duchess of Devonshire and Elizabeth, born in 1646, later Countess of Chesterfield.

James 12th Earl of Ormond remained loyal to the monarchy and to King Charles I at the time of the 1641 Rebellion and the Civil War. He was appointed commander-in-chief of the army in Ireland in 1641. The family was living at Carrick when the 1641 rebellion broke out. The earl went to Dublin to command the army and Elizabeth and her children moved to Kilkenny Castle.

King Charles I (1600-49), attributed to James Gandy after Sir Anthony van Dyck (1619-89), this portrait hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Charles had been a notable patron of the arts, and was responsible for commissioning works from artists such as Sir Peter Paul Rubens, and for bringing Sir Anthony van Dyck to England. A full length portrait wearing robes of state, this is a very close copy of the portrait painted by Van Dyke (c.1636) now in the Royal Collection. The portrait is attributed to James Gandy on the grounds that it is a seventeenth century work and that he is said to have made many copies of portraits after van Dyck during the time he was employed by the Duke of Ormond. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Queen Henrietta Maria (1609-69), attributed to James Gandy after Sir Anthony van Dyck (1619-89). Daughter of Henri IV of France and Marie De Medici. Wife of Charles I of England and mother to Charles II and James II of England. This portrait hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The five eldest children of King Charles I, after Sir Anthony van Dyck. The children include the future Kings Charles II and James II. The painting hangs in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Sir Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640), after a self-portrait by Rubens of c. 1625 which was painted for Charles, Prince of Wales. A crude copy, the artist is unknown, probably a nineteenth century copy. This portrait hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Sir Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641), after Sir Anthony van Dyck. The head in this portrait would seem to be derived from van Dyck’s Self Portrait with Endymion Porter (Prado, Madrid) although the costume is different; in fact, it is closer to that used in van Dyck’s self portrait with Sunflower. Probably a nineteenth century copy, it also hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Diorama and information in St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny, how the city of Kilkenny looked in 1642. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Diorama and information in St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Catholic Confederacy, an alliance of Catholics and Anglo-Irish, made Kilkenny their base. James the 12th Earl negotiated on behalf of the king with the Catholic Confederacy. However, Cromwell came to Ireland in 1649 and captured Kilkenny. He ransacked the Cathedral, and attacked Kilkenny Castle.

The castle now forms a “u” shape, because in the time of Oliver Cromwell’s invasion, the fourth wall fell. [7]

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by unknown 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1] The castle now forms a “u” shape, because in the time of Oliver Cromwell’s invasion, the fourth wall fell.
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James Butler served as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland from 1648-1650, the first of three periods as Lord Lieutenant. Following the defeat of the monarchy, he went into exile, moving around Europe with the exiled court of Charles II.

King Charles II (1630-85) attributed to John Michael Wright (1617-1694). This portrait hangs in the Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Queen Henrietta Maria (1609-69), after Sir Anthony van Dyck. Henrietta Maria was the daughter of Henri IV of France and Marie de Medici. She was the wife of Charles I of England and mother of Charles II and James II. This painting was formerly called “Duchess of Orleans”. This is a copy, with slight variations, after an original portrait by van Dyck, painted in 1632. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Lady Ormond was highly regarded at Court and was godmother to Princess Mary, daughter of King James II, later Queen Mary. The Kilkenny Castle website tells us that Elizabeth is author of the largest body of extant correspondence of any woman from 17th century Ireland.

Lady Ormond spent a short period in exile with her husband and family in France during the early 1650s. By August 1652, poverty forced her to travel to England to plead with Cromwell for permission to live with her children on a portion of her Irish estates. She argued that it was she who inherited the estates and not her husband. Permission was granted in February 1653 on condition that she ceased all communication with her husband. They reunited later. She returned to her house at Dunmore, Co. Kilkenny.

After the restoration of the monarchy, James Butler was given an Irish Dukedom as Duke of Ormond, in 1661. He was raised to a dukedom in the English peerage in 1682.

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James Butler 1st Duke of Ormond. Artist: Sir Peter Lely (1618-1680). He is wearing robes of the Order of the Garter and holds the wand of office of Lord Steward of the Household in his right hand. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Kilkenny castle website continues: “After the restoration of the monarchy in England, Ormond was rewarded with a dukedom and several high offices by a grateful king. Though he enjoyed the king’s favour, Ormond had enemies at court and as a result of the machinations of the Cabal, which included powerful figures such as the Earl of Shaftesbury, he was dismissed from his post as Lord Lieutenant in 1669.

Note that the “Cabal” was the term used to refer to the clique around the king. The term comes from an acronym of their names, Sir Thomas Clifford 1st Baron Clifford, Henry Benet 1st Earl of Arlington, George Villiers 2nd Duke of Buckingham, Anthony Ashley Cooper, Lord Ashley 1st Earl of Shaftesbury and John Maitland, 1st Duke and 2nd Earl of Lauderdale.

Ormond served his last term as Lord Lieutenant from 1677-1685. During this time he founded the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham in Dublin for old soldiers. William Robinson served as Surveyor General and architect of the Royal Hospital. He also worked on Kilkenny Castle. As Lord Lieutenant, the Duke lived in Dublin Castle’s State Apartments, and he had work carried out there also.

William Robinson, Royal Hospital Kilmainham.

Mark Bence-Jones describes the Duke’s renovations of Kilkenny Castle:

The Great Duke transformed the castle from a medieval fortress into a pleasant country house, rather like the chateau or schloss of contemporary European princeling; with high-pitched roofs and cupolas surmounted by vanes and gilded ducal coronets on the old round towers. Outworks gave place to gardens with terraces, a “waterhouse” a fountain probably carved by William de Keyser, and statues copied from those in Charles II’s Privy Gardens. The Duchess seems to have been the prime mover in the work, in which William (afterwards Sir William) Robinson, Surveyor-General and architect of the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham, was probably involved, supervising the construction of the Presence Chamber 1679.” [see 3]

A rather amusing article in the Dublin Penny Journal in September 1832 criticises the Duke of Ormond’s renovation “in the bad style of architecture then prevailing on the Continent, a taste for which had probably been imbibed by the Duke in his repeated visits to France. It retained, however, three of the ancient towers, but changed in character and disfigured by fantastic decorations to make them harmonize in style with the newer portions of the building.” The article tells us that the building has been put to right again by the present owner, the Marquess of Ormond, by architect Robertson of Kilkenny.

Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The entrance to inside Kilkenny Castle, the rounded arched door. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The hoppers on the top of the drain pipes depict an eagle, and each has a different date written on it, each a significant year to the Ormondes and Kilkenny Castle. This one says 1682. This was during the time of James Butler (1665-1745) who became the 2nd Duke of Ormonde, and is a date between when his father died in 1680 and when his grandfather the 1st Duke of Ormond died in 1688. Perhaps it was the time when renovations took place on the castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

You can take an online tour of the castle on the website https://kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/

There has been an entrance hall here at least since the 17th century rebuilding of the castle. The black and white stone floor is laid with Kilkenny Black Marble and local sandstone, laid in the 19th century. The north doorway through the massive curtain wall was remodelled on two occasions in the 19th century. This room has been redecorated using organic naturally pigmented copper green paint. This colour is based on two Edwardian Irish Country house schemes; the Entrance Hall at Beaulieu, Co. Louth and the Saloon at Headford, Co. Meath.

The Entrance Hall, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph courtesy of Kilkenny Castle website. There has been an entrance hall here at least since the 17th century rebuilding of the castle. The black and white stone floor is laid with Kilkenny Black Marble and local sandstone, laid in the 19th century.
Notice board in the entrance hall. It tells us that the portraits, from the family collection, were purchased by the Irish government from the family estate in 1995. The hall table also belonged to the Ormondes, and was too heavy to move so was not sold in the auction of 1935.
The Entrance Hall, Kilkenny Castle. James Butler (1610-88), 1st Duke of Ormond, 12th Earl of Ormond, in the style of John Michael Wright (1617-1694). There was no fewer than 28 swords and daggers displayed in the Entrance Hall prior to the 1935 auction. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
James Butler (1610-88), 1st Duke of Ormond, 12th Earl of Ormond, in the style of John Michael Wright (1617-1694). Ormond is clad in armour, holding the baton of command, and wearing the blue ribbon of the Order of the Garter. A plumed helmet is to the sitter’s right. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Description of swords.
The Entrance Hall, Kilkenny Castle. Portraits of Thomas Butler (c.1531-1614), 10th Earl of Ormond, artist unknown, and James Butler (1665-1745), 2nd Duke of Ormonde, 13th Earl of Ormonde, artist unknown. A fine set of Irish elk antlers, dug from a Leitrim bog in the 19th century, are displayed over the fireplace. The Irish elk (Megaloceros giganteus) also called the giant deer or Irish deer, is an extinct species of prehistoric deer which lived during the Ice Age about 2,580,000 to 11,700 years ago. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Entrance Hall, Kilkenny Castle. Italian marble table. This large grey marble table is original to Kilkenny Castle and dates to the late 17th century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

When Ormond retired to England in 1682, the duchess accompanied him and they settled at Kingston House (Kingston Lacy) in Dorset. She died two years later at their town house, Ormonde House, in St. James’s Square, London. Sir Peter Lely painted the duchess but no portrait of her by the artist has been traced. A portrait of her by Henri Gascars is recorded in seventeenth-century Ormonde inventories.

Kingston Lacy, which belonged to James Butler Duke of Ormond, photograph by Vauxhall,  licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.

The last decade of the Duke’s life was marked by tragedy: all three of his sons as well as his wife died. His daughter Elizabeth, who had married Philip Stanhope, 2nd Earl of Chesterfield, had already died at the young age of 25 in 1665. She was Stanhope’s second wife. Stanhope was one of the lovers of the notorious Barbara Villiers, mistress of King Charles II. Her portrait is in the stair hall of Kilkenny Castle.

Barbara Villiers (c.1641-1709), Duchess of Cleveland & Countess of Castlemaine, attributed to Sir Peter Lely (1618-1680) and his studio. Daughter of Lord Grandison. After an affair with Philip Stanhope, 2nd Earl of Chesterfield, in 1659, she married Roger Palmer, Earl of Castlemaine. Established as Charles II’s mistress during the Restoration in 1660, she bore him at least six children and was created Duchess of Cleveland in her own right in 1670. When she was granted lands in Dublin by the king, the grant was opposed by Ormond. The duchess was no friend of the Butler family because of her notorious affair with Lord Chesterfield, husband of Ormond’s daughter Elizabeth. A heavily restored picture shows the sitter in shepherdess’s costume with a crook and lamb, it is said to have been commissioned from Lely in order to insult the queen, Catherine of Braganza, who had been painted in a similar pose by Jacob Huysmans. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

John, 1st and last Earl of Gowran, died in 1677. Thomas 6th Earl of Ossory died in 1680. His wife Elizabeth died in 1684, and Richard, 1st and last Earl of Arran, in 1686. He himself died in 1688 at Kingston Lacy and was buried in Westminster Abbey.

Thomas Butler (1634-1680) 6th Earl of Ossory, studio of Sir Peter Lely, circa 1678, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 371. He was the second son of the Duke and Duchess of Ormond and father of 2nd Duke of Ormonde.
Richard Butler (1639-1685) 1st Earl of Arran, son of the Duke of Ormonde, by Godfrey Kneller, courtesy of National Trust Hardwick Hall.
Daughter of the 1st Earl of Ormond, Elizabeth Stanhope née Butler Countess of Chesterfield By Peter Lely – http://www.thepeerage.com/p951.htm#i9503, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org

His daughter Mary (1646-1710) married William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Devonshire.

Daughter of the 1st Earl of Ormond, Mary Butler (1646-1710) Duchess of Devonshire in the style of Willem Wissing courtesy of National Trust Hardwick Hall. She married William Cavendish, 1st Duke of Devonshire.

Thomas Butler (1634-1682) 6th Earl of Ossory was the father of the 2nd Duke of Ormond. Thomas was a soldier and Naval Commander, known as ‘Gallant Ossory.’ Born at Kilkenny Castle in 1634, his childhood was spent at Kilkenny until he went with his father and brother Richard to England in 1647. They then went to France, where he was educated at Caen and Paris at Monsieur de Camps’ Academy. In Holland he married Amelia of Nassau, daughter of Lodewyk van Nassau, Heer van Beverweerd, a natural son of Prince Maurice of Nassau. 

Thomas Butler (1634-1680, Earl of Ossory, Lord Butler of Moore Park, Lord Deputy of Ireland, studio of Sir Peter Lely (1618-80). Ossory was a witness when James, Duke of York secretly married Anne Hyde in 1660. He died suddenly in 1680, possibly from food poisoning, at Arlington House in London. He was buried in Westminster Abbey. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Thomas enjoyed the favour and support of both King Charles II and his queen. Because of his wife’s Dutch connections he was frequently sent on royal missions to Holland. In 1661 Thomas Butler became a member of both the English and Irish houses of Commons, representing Bristol in the former and Dublin University in the latter House. In 1665 he was appointed lieutenant-general of the army in Ireland and in 1666 was created an English peer as Lord Butler.

Having proven himself as an expert military strategist, and whilst visiting France in 1672, he rejected the liberal offers made by Louis XIV to induce him to enter the service of France, and returning to England he added to his high reputation by his conduct during the Battle of Texel in August 1673. From 1677 until 1679, he served alongside his father as a Lord of the Admiralty.

In 1670 he conducted William of Orange to England. In 1677 he joined the allied army in the Netherlands, commanding the British section and winning great fame at the siege of Mons in 1678. He acted as deputy for his father, who was lord-lieutenant of Ireland, and in parliament he defended Ormonde’s Irish administration with great vigour. In 1680 he was appointed governor of English Tangier, but his death prevented him from taking up his new duties.

Elizabeth Butler (d.1717) Countess of Derby by William Wissing (1656-87). Daughter of Thomas Butler, Earl of Ossory and his wife Amelia, she married William George, 9th Earl of Derby in 1673. It was an unhappy marriage, her husband’s behaviour being a cause for much concern and comment on the part of her grandparents, the 1st Duke and Duchess of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
King William III (1650-1702), studio of Sir Godfrey Kneller (1646-1723). This portrait in the picture gallery at Kilkenny Castle is a copy of the ‘official approved likeness’ first painted by Sir Godfrey Kneller in 1690, with a companion piece of Queen Mary II. The king is depicted waring the robes of state. Both originals are in the Royal Collection.William was born in The Hague, he was the posthumous and only child of Stadholder William II and Princess Mary, Princess Royal of England, eldest daughter of Charles I and Queen Henriette Maria [see painting: The Children of Charles I]. After the crisis precipitated by the birth of an heir [Prince James Francis Stuart] to his cousin, the Catholic James II, in 1688, William came to England at the invitation of several leading men to defend the Protestant cause. James left England, first to France to seek aid from Louis XIV, another cousin, and thence to Ireland, where he launched a military campaign to win over the country. Meanwhile William, his son-in law, landed at Carrickfergus in June 1690. He then marched south, and defeated James and his forces at the Battle of the Boyne. Both kings stayed at Kilkenny Castle during their visit to Ireland. James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde, was a firm supporter of King William at the Boyne. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Queen Mary II (1662-1694), studio of Sir Godfrey Kneller (1646-1723), in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Eldest daughter of James Duke of York (later James II) and Anne Hyde, she married, at the age of 15, her cousin, William, Prince of Orange, in Holland. The Duchess of Ormond was Godmother to Princess Mary, at her birth in London. Mary took an active role in the dispute with her father James II. William and Mary ruled as king and queen regnant. Under the terms of the succession, William would administer the government in both their names. The Crown would descend in the first instance to the heirs of her body, then to any heirs he might have after her death, and then to any heirs her sister Anne, Princess of Denmark (later Queen Anne).Mary was a popular monarch, and this helped compensate for her husband’s rather taciturn nature. She died prematurely at the age of 32, leaving William to reign alone for another eight years. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

John Evelyn, the diarist, was a close friend and referred to him as ‘a good natured, generous and perfectly obliging friend’. He died suddenly in 1680, possibly from food poisoning, at Arlington House in London. He was buried in Westminster Abbey

Ossory had eleven children, including James Butler (1665-1745), the eldest surviving son of Thomas the 6th Earl of Ossory, who became the 2nd Duke of Ormonde. 

Following his father’s death in 1680, James became the heir to his grandfather, James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormond, whom he succeeded in 1688. James Butler 2nd Duke of Ormonde (the ‘e’ was added to the name around this time) inherited all of the Ormonde properties and titles, from both his grandfather and grandmother including her Dingwall title.

James Butler (1665-1745) 2nd Duke of Ormonde courtesy of National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London.
Oil painting on canvas, James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde (1665-1745) by Sir Godfrey Kneller (Lubeck 1646/9 – London 1723). A three-quarter length portrait, turned slightly to the right, facing, gazing at spectator, wearing armour, blue sash and white jabot, a baton in his right hand, his left on his hip, his helmet placed at the left; cavalry in the distance, right.

James the 2nd Duke married twice: first to Anne Hyde, daughter of Laurence, 1st Earl of Rochester, and a niece Anne Hyde the wife of the duke of York, the future James II. After she died, he married Mary Somerset, a daughter of Henry Somerset, 1st Duke of Beaufort. She married James, then Lord Ossory in 1685 as his second wife. They had one son and five daughters. Only two daughters survived infancy: Lady Elizabeth, unmarried (d.1750) and Lady Mary (d.1713) who married John, Lord Ashburnham in 1710.

Anne Hyde (1669-1685) Countess of Ossory by William Wissing and his studio (1656-87), first wife of James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde, hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. She was the daughter of Lawrence Hyde, 1st Earl of Rochester. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Anne Hyde (1637-1671), Duchess of York, a well painted version of an original painted by Sir Peter Lely in c. 1662. Daughter of Edward Hyde, 1st Earl of Clarendon (a close friend & confidant to the 1st Duke of Ormond), and first wife of James, Duke of York ( later James II). She was mother to princesses Mary and Anne, future Queens of England, and aunt of Anne Hyde, Lady Ossory, first wife of the 2nd Duke of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mary Somerset (1665-1733), 2nd Duchess of Ormonde, by follower of Michael Dahl (1659-1743). This hangs in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Daughter of Henry, 1st Duke of Beaufort and wife of James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The duchess Mary was delighted with the reception she received on her first visit to Ireland. During this visit, she wrote to John Ellis telling him, ‘I have been received with as much respect as the greatest woman in the world could have been both by civil, military and clerical…’

Queen Anne appointed her Lady of the Bedchamber (1702-14). John Dryden dedicated his work Palamon and Arcite to her. The duchess did not join her husband in exile in France but that did not spare her from the humiliation of having her pew in St. James’s Church taken from her at Christmas in 1715. On this occasion she wrote to Ellis complaining that ‘this treatment appears to me very extraordinary, that before anybody has made out their title to the House in the parish I should be turned out of the church after living 30 years myself in the Parish…’ From 1720 until her death in 1733, she lived at Paradise Row in Chelsea, London. She was buried in Westminster Abbey, London.

Mary Butler née Somerset (1665-1733) Duchess of Ormonde and her son Thomas Earl of Ossory by John Smith, after Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bt., courtesy of National Portrait Gallery, NPG D31316.
Lady Mary Somerset, Duchess of Ormonde (1665-1733) by Michael Dahl, 1690s. Three-quarter-length portrait, of a young woman, seated, full front, her head three-quarters left. She is wearing a deep brown-gold dress, blue lined and is holding a rose in her right hand. A bottle green curtain is to the right and an arcade in the left background. Courtesy of National Trust Petworth.
Top left: James Butler 2nd Duke of Ormonde (1665-1745), Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, son of Thomas Butler, Earl of Ossory. First married Anne Hyde and then Mary Somerset; below him, Mary Somerset (1665-1733), daughter of the Duke of Beaufort. In middle, Thomas Butler (1634-1680), 6th Earl of Ossory, second son of the Duke and Duchess of Ormond and father of 2nd Duke of Ormonde. Mary Somerset’s father top right, Henry Somerset (1629-1700), 1st Duke of Beaufort; below Anne Hyde (1669-1685), the 2nd Duke’s first wife, daughter of Lawrence Hyde, 1st Earl of Rochester, artist: William Wissing (1656-87). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Henry Somerset (1629-1700), 1st Duke of Beaufort 3rd Marquess of Worcester, studio of Sir Godfrey Kneller (1646-1723), hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Father of Mary Somerset, 2nd Duchess of Ormonde. A staunch Tory, he refused to take the Oath of Allegiance to King William III. Created Duke of Beaufort in 1682. In 1657, he married Mary, daughter of Arthur Capel, 1st Lord Capel and sister of Arthur, Earl of Essex, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. Henry Somerset died in 1700 and by virtue of his claim to Royal blood through his descent from John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, son of Edward III, he was buried in the Beaufort Chapel at St. George’s in Windsor. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Henry Somerset (1629-1700) 1st Duke of Beaufort by Robert White, after Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bt, NPG D28194.

James 2nd Earl was appointed a Lord of the Bedchamber in 1685; and serving in the army, participated in the victory over the Duke of Monmouth, at Sedgemore. [see 6]

James Butler (1665-1745) 2nd Duke of Ormond, studio of Michael Dahl, oil on canvas, circa 1713 courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG 78.

The 2nd Duke carried out more work on Kilkenny Castle. Bence-Jones continues: “[William] Robinson is also believed to have designed the magnificent entrance gateway of Portland and Caen stone with a pediment, Corinthian pilasters and swags which the second Duke erected on the street front of the castle ca 1709. Not much else was done to the castle in C18, for the Ormondes suffered a period of eclipse following the attainder and exile of the 2nd Duke, who became a Jacobite after the accession of George I.” [3]

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by unknown 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]
Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
A drawing for the entrance of Kilkenny Castle, very different from what we see today.
The classical frontispiece was designed for James Butler, Second Duke of Ormonde possibly to designs prepared by Sir William Robinson. Kilkenny Castle. It has full height Corinthian pilasters and a large arched entry, with niches either side. The moulded surrounds of the entrance and niches have keystones. A decorative frieze of swags sits above the entrance arch. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
At the top of the entrance door is the Butler coat of arms and their motto, Comme le Trouve, “As I find.” Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside of the entrance gate, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside of the entrance gate, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside of the entrance gate, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
James Butler (1665-1745), 2nd Duke of Ormonde, 13th Earl of Ormonde, artist unknown, formerly attributed to William Dobson (British, 1611-1646). James was the eldest surviving son of Thomas Butler, Earl Ossory, and his wife Amelia Nassau.
Following his father’s death in 1680, James became the heir to his grandfather, James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormond, whom he succeeded in 1688. James is wearing Garter robes. This is a crudely painted piece. The head is similar to that used in portraits by Dahl.

Although he was later a Jacobite, favouring the return of James III to the throne rather than George I, James 2nd Duke favoured William III over James II. He took up arms under William Prince of Orange. He was present at the Boyne, and during William’s stay in Ireland entertained the king in extravagant style at Kilkenny castle. 

Lots of stone carved heads decorate the exterior of the castle. I’m not sure when they were added, but if they were there at the time of King William’s visit the military headgear of some was bound to impress.

Lots of stone carved heads decorate the exterior of the castle. Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the stone heads next to an entrance of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the stone heads next to an entrance of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the stone heads next to an entrance of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the stone heads next to an entrance of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There are also stone heads inside the front corridor. I think the corridor’s inner wall was originally an external wall of the castle. The heads inside are regal, not militant.

The front corridor of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A carved stone head inside the front corridor Kilkenny Castle, at the end of hood moulding over a door. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A carved stone head inside the front corridor Kilkenny Castle, at the end of hood moulding over a door. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stephen speaks to a guide in the front corridor of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stephen in the front corridor of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A drawing inside Kilkenny Castle shows a slightly different South front, with a portico around the entrance door. Now the whole ground floor has been extended out from the rest of the building into a corridor.
The entrance to inside Kilkenny Castle, the rounded arched door. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Once William and Mary were established on the throne of England, he began to reap the rewards of his allegiance. He attended the coronation of the new king and queen as lord high constable of England, and was named as a gentleman of the king’s bedchamber. Later he became a privy councillor in both Ireland and England. The dictionary of national biography tells us that if Ormond had prospered in William’s reign, he was to reach new heights of favour under Queen Anne. In February 1703 Ormond was appointed lord lieutenant of Ireland.

However, his fortunes went downhill, and instead of supporting the accession of George I, he became a Jacobite. He was a supporter of James II’s son James Francis Stuart (1688-1766) and his son Charles Edward Stuart, “Bonnie Prince Charlie.”

Prince James Francis Stuart (1688-1766), after Antonio David (1698–1750), this hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Son of King James II and his second wife Maria d’Este, ‘Mary of Modena,’ his birth in 1688 precipitated what became known as ‘The Glorious Revolution’ in England. Throughout his life he remained a focus of the Jacobite cause, culminating in the Battle of Culloden in 1745, when his son, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, ‘Bonnie Prince Charlie,’ led the Highland Scots and other Jacobites to their final defeat. The 2nd Duke of Ormonde was a close confidant and supporter to both princes.
Possibly James Butler (1665-1745) 2nd Duke or Ormonde,13th Earl of Ormonde, attributed to Adriaen van der Werff (1659-1722). This hangs in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Ormonde, like his grandfather sat to most of the fashionable portrait painters of his day. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Following his involvement in a Jacobite rising, a Bill of Attainder was passed against him. He was impeached for high treason. His English and Scottish honours, including the order of the Garter, and his English estates were seized. Timothy William Ferres tells us that Parliament passed an act which annulled the regalities and liberties of the County Palatine of Tipperary, vested his lands in the Crown, and proclaimed a reward of £10,000 for his apprehension, should he attempt to land in Ireland. [see 6] He fled to France in 1715. 

The crown administered his estates until 1721, when parliament passed an act to enable the Duke’s brother, Charles to repurchase the estates.

The 2nd Earl lived out his life in exile, and died at Avignon in France. Despite this, he was buried in 1746 in Westminster Abbey.

James Butler (1665-1745), 2nd Duke of Ormonde, 13th Earl of Ormonde, after Michael Dahl (1659-1743). Following his support of the Jacobite rising, he was impeached and fled to France. He lived out his life in exile, died in Avignon in France in 1745 and was buried in 1746 at Westminster Abbey. Wearing armour with the blue ribbon of the Garter with the lesser George (a term used to describe the medal associated with the Order of the Garter), and a sash about his waist, Ormonde holds in his right hand a baton of command. A cavalry skirmish and buildings are to his left. The portrait appears to have been executed in the 1690s; the pose is similar to that used by both Sir Godfrey Kneller and Michael Dahl. An original portrait by Dahl which is very similar is in the Devonshire collection at Hardwick Hall. A portrait by Kneller is in the National Gallery of Ireland. This portrait hangs in the Tapestry Room of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The attainder on the 2nd Duke’s estate did not cause the forfeiture of the Irish titles or estates. At the time of forfeiture, it was supposed that the Duke’s honours were all forfeited under the act of attainder passed by Parliament, but it was subsequently decided that no proceeding of the English legislature could affect Irish dignities. James the 2nd Duke had no son, so his brother Charles Butler (1671-1758) succeeded him as 14th Earl of Ormonde and de jure 3rd Duke of Ormonde in the peerage of Ireland. However, Timothy William Ferres tells us that in 1683, Charles had been created Baron Butler, and in 1693, Baron Cloughgrenan, Viscount Tullogh, and Earl of Arran, but he never assumed or was aware of possessing the English and Irish Dukedom or Marquessate.

Charles Butler, 1st Earl of Arran (1671-1758), 14th Earl of Ormond, by James Thornhill. He was the brother of the 2nd Duke of Ormond http://www.odl.ox.ac.uk/oxfordportraits

The Kilkenny Castle website tells us that Charles attended the University of Oxford and took the Grand tour of Europe. Charles reaped rewards and titles in his support for William III, becoming Baron Butler of Weston in the English Peerage (1694) and Earl of Arran in the Irish Peerage (1694). He rose through the ranks in the British Army. He succeeded his brother as High Steward of Westminster and Chancellor of Oxford University, two posts he held until his death. He was fifty years old when he was able to repurchase the Ormonde estates. He lived in St. James’s Place and Grosvenor St. in London, and a country house in Bagshot Park, Surrey. Upon his death in 1758, the Dukedom and Marquisate became extinct.

He had no children, however, so the title passed to a cousin.

The Entrance Hall, Kilkenny Castle. Portrait is of James Wandesforde Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation), 19th Earl of Ormonde, by Richard Rothwell (1800-1868). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Since there is the portrait of James Wandesforde Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation), 19th Earl of Ormonde in the front hall, let’s continue with the genealogy of the Ormondes before we continue further into the castle.

After the childless 14th Earl of Ormonde, the successor was a cousin, John Butler (d. 1766) of Kilcash and Garryricken. His father was Thomas Butler of Kilcash (d. 1738), a grandson of Richard Butler (d. 1701) of Kilcash, a brother of the 1st Duke of Ormond.

Family tree of the Butlers, showing the genealogy of the 15th Earl of Ormonde.
Colonel Thomas Butler (d. 1738) of Kilcash and Garryricken by James Latham. Thomas was the father of the 15th Earl of Ormonde, John Butler (d. 1766) of Kilcash and Garryricken.

Colonel Thomas Butler (d. 1738) of Kilcash and Garryricken, father of the 15th Earl of Ormonde, had a brother who became a Catholic Archbishop of Cashel and Emly. Their portraits, by James Latham, hang in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle.

Thomas (d. 1738) inherited Kilcash from his grandfather Richard Butler (d. 1701) of Kilcash. A Colonel of a Regiment of Foot in the army of King James II, Thomas married Margaret Bourke, widow of 5th Viscount Iveagh and daughter of William, 7th Earl of Clanricarde. They had three sons: Richard (d.1711), Walter who died in Paris and John Butler of Kilcash, who succeeded to the Ormonde titles as de jure 15th Earl in 1758 on the death of his cousin Amelia, sister of James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde. The couple also had five daughters: one, Honora married Valentine Brown, Lord Kenmare.

Christopher Butler (d. 1758?) Catholic Archbishop of Cashel and Emly, by James Latham. Christopher Butler was Catholic archbishop of Cashel and Emly, son of Walter Butler of Garryricken and brother of Colonel Thomas Butler of Kilcash.
In the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle: Christopher Butler (d. 1758?), Catholic archbishop of Cashel and Emly, son of Walter Butler of Garryricken and brother of Colonel Thomas Butler of Kilcash, portrait by James Latham (1696-1747); Charles Butler (1671-1758) 2nd Earl of Arran, youngest son of Thomas Butler Earl of Ossory and brother of the 2nd Duke of Ormonde; Colonel Thomas Butler of Kilcash (d. 1738) by James Latham. He was the son of Walter Butler and Garryricken and Mary Plunket. He inherited Kilcash from his grandfather Richard, youngest brother of the Duke of Ormond. His wife was Margaret Burke. Portrait attributed to Hans Hysing (1678-1753). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The 15th Earl had no children so the title then passed to a cousin, Walter Butler (1703-1783), another of the Garryricken branch, who also became the 9th Earl of Ossory. He was the only son and heir of John Butler of Garricken and Frances, daughter of George Butler of Ballyragget. Walter inherited the Ormonde titles in 1766 which he did not assume, so is called the “de jure” 16th Earl. “De jure” describes practices that are officially recognised by laws or other formal norms, regardless of whether the practice exists in reality.

Walter Butler (1703-1783) De jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, by Robert Hunter. This portrait hangs in the drawing room of Kilkenny Castle. Walter Butler is shown seated with his dog in a formal garden landscape, with a small temple and another building in the background. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1732 he married Eleanor Morres (1711-1793), the daughter of Nicholas Morres of Seapark Court, Co. Dublin, and of Lateragh, Co. Tipperary.

Eleanor Morres (1711-1793) by Robert Hunter (1715-1720, died after 1803). This portrait hangs in the drawing room of Kilkenny Castle. Eleanor was the daughter of Nicholas Morres of Seapark Court, Co. Dublin, and of Lateragh, Co. Tipperary, and of Susanna, daughter of Richard Talbot of Malahide Castle. She married Walter Butler, de jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, in 1732. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Duelling pistols. In 1760 Kilkenny Castle was raided for its silver plate by highwaymen. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about duels.
Blunderbuss.

Walter succeeded to the family estates on 1766 on the death of the 15th Earl and thus moved from Garryricken House to Kilkenny Castle. Walter de jure 16th Earl was a Catholic so was unable to exercise a political role. He undertook the restoration of the Castle, decorating some of the rooms with simple late eighteenth century plasterwork, and also built the stable block across the road from the Castle, today the Design Centre and National Craft Centre. He also built the Dower House, now a hotel called Butler House.

Butler House, the dower house to Kilkenny Castle, built for Walter Butler (1703-1783) de jure 16th Earl of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After Walter’s death in 1783, Eleanor moved into the Dower House. His youngest daughter, Eleanor, is known as one of the ‘Ladies of Llangollen,’ who moved with her female partner to a home in Wales.

In 1768 the thirteen-year-old Sarah Ponsonby arrived in Kilkenny to attend a local school. Following her visit to the Butler family at Kilkenny castle, and despite the difference in age, the two formed an immediate friendship and corresponded secretly. In their first attempt to flee in March 1778, they left for Waterford disguised as men and wielding pistols, but their families managed to catch up with them.

The Ladies of Llangollen, Sarah Ponsonby and Charlotte Eleanor Butler, by Richard James Lane, printed by Jérémie Graf, after Lady Mary Leighton (née Parker) courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG D32504.

Eleanor was then sent to the home of her brother-in-law Thomas ‘Monarch’ Kavanagh of Borris, Co. Carlow, but made a second, successful attempt and ran away to find Sarah in Woodstock, County Kilkenny. Her persistence won out when both families finally capitulated and accepted their plans to live together.

Walter and Eleanor’s son John (1740-1795) became known as “Jack of the Castle” and was the 17th Earl. Jack’s sister Susannah married Thomas Kavanagh of Borris House in County Carlow (see my entry about Borris House https://irishhistorichouses.com/2020/10/04/borris-house-county-carlow/).

Jack married Anne Wandesford, becoming a Protestant in order to marry her. This allowed him to stand as a member of Parliament. Their sons Her sons Walter and James became 18th and 19th Earls of Ormonde while a younger son Charles inherited the Wandesforde estates and took the name Wandesforde. The Kilkenny Castle website tells us that Anne placed a strong emphasis on health. In Castlecomer she had organised a fever hospital, dispensary and infirmary during the difficult period of the nineteenth century.

Susan Frances Elizabeth (Anne) Wandesford (1754-1830) Countess of Ormonde by Hugh Douglas Hamilton (1739-1808), hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Daughter of John, Earl Wandesford and his wife Agnes Elizabeth Southwell of Enniscouch, Co. Limerick. In 1769, Anne married John Butler, 17th Earl of Ormonde, who claimed the Irish titles in 1783 and had them confirmed in 1791. They had four sons: Walter, later 18th Earl of Ormonde, John, who died unmarried and James. The youngest, Charles Howard Butler was heir to his mother’s estates and also inherited her brother Walter Clarke’s estates. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
John Wandesford (1725-1784), 1st Earl of Wandesford and Viscount Castlecomer, after Sir Joshua Reynolds (1723-92), hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Father of Susan Frances Elizabeth (Anne) Wandesford, Marchioness of Ormonde, he was created Earl of Wandesford in 1758. When he died in 1884, the title became extinct. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
John Wandesford (1725-1784), Earl of Wandesford, father of Anne; below, Susan Frances Elizabeth (Anne) Wandesford (1754-1830), Countess of Ormonde, wife of 17th Earl of Ormonde and mother of 18th Earl, Artist: Hugh Douglas Hamilton (1739-1808); Landscape with Waterfall from the Italian school of 18th century and below, Before the Hunt. To right, Gilbert Clarke (d. 1725), by Sir Godffrey Kneller (1646-1723) and below, possibly Susanna nee Boun, wife of Gilbert Clarke. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Jack and Anne’s son Walter (1770-1820) was given the title Viscount Thurles in 1791. When his father died in 1795 he became the 18th Earl and 1st Marquess of Ormonde. He was made Knight of the Order of St. Patrick in1798 and in 1801 he was created Baron Butler of Lanthony, Co. Monmouth.

Walter Butler (1770-1820) 1st Marquess of Ormonde (2nd creation), 18th Earl of Ormonde by Sir William Beechey, hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Son of John Butler and Anne Wandesford. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After voting for the Act of Union in 1800, Walter took his seat in the House of Lords. He was said to haven a profligate spender, moving in the circle of the Regent, Prince George (later George IV).

In 1805, he married a wealthy heiress, Anna Maria Catherine Price-Clarke (1789-1817).

Anna Maria Catherine Price-Clarke (1789-1817) Marchioness of Ormonde by Sir William Beechey (1753-1839), hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Heiress to her brother Godfrey TR Price-Clarke, she was the only daughter and heir of Job Hart Price-Clarke (formerly Price) of Sutton Hall, Derby, and his wife Sarah, sister and heiress of Godfrey Bagnal Clarke of Sutton Hall. She was married to Walter Butler, 1st Marquess of Ormonde (2nd creation). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

His Irish estates were worth £22,000 per annum in 1799. In 1811, probably needing money, he negotiated the sale of the presage of wines granted to his ancestor in 1327, and Parliament granted him £216,000 as compensation. He was created Marquess of Ormonde in 1816.

 Walter Butler (1770-1820) 1st Marquess of Ormonde (2nd creation), 18th Earl of Ormonde, in the manner of William Beechy.

The walls of the Chinese Withdrawing Room have remnants of hand painted Chinese wallpaper original to the room, with the monochrome grey and white infill carried out by the studio of David Skinner. This delicate paper was probably ordered as part of the redecorations done to the castle by Walter Butler (1770-1820) 1st Marquess of Ormonde (2nd creation), 18th Earl of Ormonde. Walter had three rooms decorated with Chinese Paper in 1801 of which only fragments of one survive. Walter belonged to the circle of the Prince Regent and the paper in Kilkenny is similar to that chosen by the future king for the saloon at the Royal Pavilion, Brighton, and to another set which the regent presented to the owners of Temple Newsam, Leeds.

During the 19th century ladies withdrew here from the dining room leaving the men to enjoy their port and cigars after dinner, as was the social convention.

The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Walter Butler belonged to the circle of the Prince Regent and the paper in Kilkenny is similar to that chosen by the future king for the saloon at the Royal Pavilion, Brighton, and to another set which the regent presented to the owners of Temple Newsam, Leeds. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Recreated to its original 18th century proportions. The room has a late 19th century Ushak rug. Ushak Carpets are handwoven in the city of Uşak in Turkey. Uşak was a major centre of rug production from the early days of the Ottoman Empire. There was a renewed appreciation for Persian rugs in the 19th century and the Ushak rugs became highly fashionable. Ushak rugs are generally woven in a method known as the Ghiordes knot or the Turkish knot: where coloured weft yarn passes over the two warp yarns and is then pulled through between them and then cut to form the pile. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Recreated to its original 18th century proportions. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information board about the Chinese Withdrawing Room in Kilkenny Castle.
The Chinese Withdrawing Room. On the walls are remnants of hand painted Chinese wallpaper original to the room with monochrome infill carried out by the studio of David Skinner. This delicate paper was probably ordered as part of the redecorations done to the castle by the 18th Earl, Walter Butler. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Walter Butler had three rooms decorated with Chinese Paper in 1801 of which only fragments of one survive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. The Crowded design includes water fowl, fruit and flower laden trees, ornate balustrades and fences supporting urns of various sizes and forms. More vases hang from the trees, where pheasants perch and smaller birds fly in pursuit of butterflies and insects. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Withdrawing Room. A tulipiére is an ornate vessel in which to grow tulips. They are typically constructed to accommodate one bulb per spout with a larger common water reservoir base. It is usually made of hand crafted pottery, classically delftware. This tulipiére was hand-made in Delft in 2009 as a one off. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

When Walter the 18th Earl died, the Marquessate of Ormonde and the Barony of Butler of Lanthony became extinct. He was described by Barrington in his Personal Sketches ‘as engaging a person, as many manly qualities, and to the full as much intellectual promise, as any young man of his country,’ but these were ‘either blunted by dissipation or absorbed in the licentious influence of fashionable connection’.

The Kilkenny Castle website identified this portrait that hangs in the long gallery of Kilkenny Castle as James Butler (1774-1838) 1st Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation) and 19th Earl of Ormonde, by John Saunders (1750-1825). However it looks to me like Walter Butler (1770-1820) 1st Marquess of Ormonde (2nd creation), 18th Earl of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The 18th Earl had no sons so his brother James Wandesford Butler (1774-1838) succeeded him. Upon his death, it was found that Walter’s estate was massively bankrupt. It was left to his successor James, the next Earl of Ormond and his younger brother Charles to bring order to the families’ financial affairs.

James Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde, 19th Earl of Ormonde, unknown artist. This portrait hangs in the library of Kilkenny Castle. James Butler was born at Kilkenny Castle the 15th July 1774, third son of John Butler, 17th Earl of Ormonde and Lady Frances Susannah Anne Wandesforde. He was educated at Eton and succeeded his brother Walter as Earl of Ormonde in 1820 becoming one of the largest landowners of Ireland. He and his younger brother Charles Harward were friends of the Prince of Wales. He married Grace Louisa Staples in 1807.

James Butler (1774-1838) was born at Kilkenny Castle the 15th July 1774, third son of John Butler, 17th Earl of Ormonde and Lady Frances Susannah Anne Wandesforde. He was educated at Eton.

After the Act of Union in 1800, James Wandesford Butler (1774-1838) took his seat in London as MP for Kilkenny (1801-20). In 1807 he married Grace Louisa Staples. They had ten children.

Grace Louisa Staples (1779-1860) Marchioness of Ormonde by John Saunders (1750-1825) hanging in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Daughter of the Rt Hon John Stapes of Lissan, near Dungannon and Henrietta, fourth daughter of Richard, 3rd Viscount Molesworth, she married James Butler, 19th Earl and 1st Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation) in 1807.

James succeeded his brother in 1820 and because the English honours had become extinct at Walter’s death, it was not until 1821 that he was created Baron Ormonde of Lanthony, Knight of St. Patrick, in the same year. Four years later he was created 1st Marquess of Ormonde (of the 3rd creation). 

He officiated as Chief Butler of Ireland at the Coronation of George IV.

He was Vice Admiral of Leinster, Lord Lieutenant of Co. Kilkenny (1831-38) and Militia ADC to King William IV and to Queen Victoria from 1837 until his death. 

James Wandesforde Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation), 19th Earl of Ormonde, by Richard Rothwell (1800-1868), the portrait hangs in the Hall of Kilkenny Castle. He succeeded his brother Walter as Earl of Ormonde in 1820, becoming one of the largest landowners in Ireland with an estate worth more than £20,000 a year. He was created Marquess of Ormonde in 1825 and officiated as Chief Butler of Ireland at the Coronation of George IV. He married Grace Louisa Staples in 1807, they had ten children. He died in Dublin in 1838 and was succeeded by his eldest son John. In this portrait, the marquess is depicted wearing a dark coat with the blue ribbon of the Order of St Patrick. Rothwell, an Irish artist who had worked as Sir Thomas Lawrence’s chief assistant, was a highly regarded portrait painter.
Marquess James Butler, Ormonde (1774 – 1838), 1830, After John Comerford (around 1762 Kilkenny – 1832 Dublin).

It was during James Wandesford Butler the 19th Earl and 1st Marquess’ time that major reconstruction work was carried out at Kilkenny Castle, around 1816 by William Robertson.

After some refurbishment had been carried out at Butler House, the family moved to live there for some years during the reconstruction work of the late 1830s and the 1840s. Robertson, an architect from Kilkenny, practically rebuilt the castle, except the three old towers and the outer walls. The front entrance by the 2nd Duke remains. Robertson swept away the 1st Duke’s embellishments.

The picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle has a wonderful drawing by William Robertson around 1816 of the castle.

Robertson replaced one of two missing sides of the courtyard with a new wing containing an immense picture gallery. The original gallery, on the top floor of the principal range, had been divided into bedrooms.

William Robertson (1770-1850) also designed a Section 482 property which I have yet to visit, Lismacue in County Tipperary (see my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2025/02/10/lismacue-house-bansha-co-tipperary-section-482-accommodation/ ).

Lismacue House, County Tipperary, photograph courtesy of website.
Kilkenny Castle, photograph by Chris Hill 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1] The National inventory describes the newer picture gallery wing. It was renovated a second time in 1858-62, with eight-bay two-storey range to north-east reconstructed having canted oriel windows to first floor, and pair of single-bay single-stage corner turrets on octagonal plans. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Mark Bence-Jones describes the renovations:

Ca. 1826, the Kilkenny architect, William Robertson, when walking in the castle courtyard with the Lady Ormonde of the day, noticed that a main wall was out of true and consequently unsafe. One suspects it may have been wishful thinking on his part, for it landed him the commission to rebuild the castle, which he did so thoroughly that virtually nothing remains from before his time except for the three old towers, the outer walls and – fortunately – the 2nd Duke’s gateway. Apart from the latter, the exterior of the castle became uncompromisingly C19 feudal; all the 1st Duke’s charming features being swept away. Robertson also replaced one of two missing sides of the courtyard with a new wing containing an immense picture gallery; the original gallery, on the top floor of the principal range, having been divided into bedrooms. Robertson left the interior of the castle extremely dull, with plain or monotonously ribbed ceilings and unvarying Louis Quinze style chimneypieces.” [see 3]

The long gallery wing of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inner corner of the south front of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inner corner of the south front of Kilkenny Castle. The hoppers on the top of the drain pipes depict an eagle, and each has a different date written on it, each a significant year to the Ormondes and Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from the south front of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

On the ground floor of the castle, along with the Entrance Hall are the Chinese Withdrawing Room and the State Dining Room. In a corridor there is a plan of the different floors – I don’t know when it was made, but maybe around 1826 at the time of Willliam Robertsons’s renovation.

Kilkenny Castle: this shows the ground floor with the hall, dining room and withdrawing room, and the Tapestry room in a round tower.
Kilkenny Castle.

The ground floor also contains the State Dining Room. The website tells us that this was the formal dining room in the 1860’s. Historic evidence shows that this room was hung in the late 19th century with a red flock paper when it was a billiard room. The strong blue on the walls echoes the colour in the original 19th century-stained glass windows and provides a backdrop for the Langrishe family portraits, which originated in Knocktopher Abbey, Kilkenny, and are now in the care of the State.

Knocktopher Abbey in County Kilkenny, a house incorporating the remains of the first Carmelite friary in Ireland, rebuilt for Lieutenant-Colonel Sir James Langrishe JP DL (1832-1910) after a fire. It was rebuilt around 1866 in High Victorian Gothic to the design of John McCurdy. The paintings on display are part of a generous bequest to Kilkenny Castle from Lady Grania Langrishe in July of 2012. See my footnotes for a description of the portraits of the Langrishe family which are on display. [9]

John Langrishe  (1660-1735), son of Hercules Langrishe (the first member of the family who settled in Ireland), became proprietor of the borough of Knocktopher, County Kilkenny. 

Knocktopher Abbey, Knocktopher, Co. Kilkenny, photograph courtesy DNG Country Homes & Estates, November 2024.

Most large estate houses would have had both a formal and informal Dining Room. The collection of silverware contains some pieces from the original 18th century collection, purchased by Walter Butler, the 18th Earl, after his marriage to the wealthy heiress Anna Maria Price Clarke.

The State Dining Room, Kilkenny Castle. This was the formal dining room in the 1860’s. Historic evidence shows that this room was hung in the late 19th century with a red flock paper when it was a billiard room. The strong blue on the walls echoes the colour in the original 19th century-stained glass windows and provides a backdrop for the Langrishe family portraits, which originated in Knocktopher Abbey, Kilkenny, and are now in the care of the State. Portrait of Rev. Sir Hercules Richard Langrishe (1782-1862), 3rd Baronet of Knocktopher County Kilkenny, artist unknown, in the corner. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The State Dining Room, Kilkenny Castle. Portrait of Sir Robert Langrishe (1756–1835), 2nd Baronet Knockopher, artist unknown, over the door. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The State Dining Room, Kilkenny Castle. Reflection of oil portrait of an unknown gentleman possibly Sir Robert Langrishe 2nd Baronet. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The State Dining Room, Kilkenny Castle. Portraits, from left to right: Robert Langrishe 2nd Baronet; an unknown gentleman perhaps John Langrishe (1660-1735); Robert Langrishe (1696-1769), artist unknown; Hercules Langrishe (1859–1943), 5th Baronet Knocktopher, Artist unknown and Hercules Langrishe (1731-1811), 1st Baronet Knocktopher, artist unknown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle dining room, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
View from the dining room onto the garden of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Garden front of Kilkenny Castle, photograph by Roselinde Bon 2016 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]
Planning sketch for the garden of Kilkenny Castle.
Kilkenny Castle in Kilkenny, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

The 19th century mahogany staircase was designed and made by the local firm of Furniss & Son, Kilkenny and leads to the Tapestry Room and first floor. The use of mahogany in domestic furniture, which is so synonymous with the Grand House, is virtually unknown before the 18th century. Most of the wood imported came from the Jamaican Plantations which were cleared in order to plant sugar cane and cotton. During the 19th century this staircase was hung with several beautiful tapestries from the Decius Mus suite, some of which are now housed in the Tapestry Room.

Photograph courtesy of Kilkenny Castle website, The Grand Staircase.
At the top of the stairs is a portrait of Mrs Nott (Knott) (d.1711), possibly Susan, granddaughter of Sir Thomas Nott, Gentleman Usher of the Privy Chamber to Charles II, studio of William Wissing (1656-87). Brewer describes the sitter as a possible mistress of one of the dukes of Ormonde. The portrait also resembles that of Amelia of Nassau, wife of Thomas, Earl of Ossory, in similar costume, and may have been acquired for that reason. A signed portrait by Wissing of Mrs. Knott is in the Royal Collection, as is a portrait of Amelia. Millar dates the original portrait to ‘perhaps c. 1680-85.’ Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The other portrait at the top of the stairs is John Bligh (1683-1728), Earl of Darnley, Viscount Darnely and Baron Clifton, attributed to Charles Stoppelaer (fl. 1703-45). Bligh was MP for Trim (1709-13) and for Athboy (1713-21). His father, Thomas, had obtained large grants of land in Ireland under the Acts of Settlement 1668. He was created Baron Clifton of Rathmore, Co Meath in 1721 in consequence of his marriage in 1713 to Theodosia Hyde, suo jure Baroness Clifton, sister and heir of Edward, Lord Clifton, Viscount Cornbury. She was a wealthy heiress with royal connections. Bligh is depicted wearing a buff-coloured coat with drapery. it was painted c.1723, as the coronet is that of a viscount. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Grand Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. This 19th century mahogany staircase was designed and made by the local firm of Furniss & Son, Kilkenny and leads to the Tapestry Room and first floor. Most of the wood imported came from the Jamaican Plantations which were cleared in order to plant sugar cane and cotton. During the 19th century this staircase was hung with several beautiful tapestries from the Decius Mus suite, some of which are now housed in the Tapestry Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Grand Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Grand Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Unknown Gentleman by Philip Hussey (1713-1783). Said to be a member of a Fitzgerald/Fitzmaurice family from the Cork area. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Unknown lady by Philip Hussey (1713-1783). The basic details of the costume are identical to that worn by Mrs Sophia Tipping in the double portrait, Mrs Sophia Tipping with her daughter, Wilhelmina Salisbury, also painted by Hussey. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Mrs Sophia Tipping and her Daughter Wilhelmina Salisbury by Philip Hussey.
An allegory of Avarice by Jan de Herdt (fl.1646-72). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The stair hall, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

On the first floor we can visit the Tapestry Room, and then a suite of rooms, the Anteroom, Library and Drawing Room.

The first floor of Kilkenny Castle, with the Tapestry Room then the suite of rooms containing the anteroom, library and drawing room.

The Tapestry Room in the North Tower shows how the medieval castle was transformed in the 17th century to become a magnificent baroque ducal palace. This room was called the Great Chamber in the 17th century and the walls were decorated with embossed and gilded leather hangings on the walls; a fragment of a late 17th/ early 18th century leather has been hung beside the door to give an impression of how rich the room must have been. In the 18th century, they were replaced by a set of tapestries. There are two tapestries from the “Decius” suite in the Tapestry room. The tapestries are attributed to the workshop of Jan Raes, after designs by Sir Peter Paul Rubens.

The ‘Decius’ suite had been in the ownership of the Ormonde family for over 300 years and was displayed in several of their residences before being acquired by OPW for display in Kilkenny Castle. Tapestries were an important feature of the interior decoration of large houses in Europe during the 16th and 17th centuries and helped provide interior interest, warmth, and colour. There area more of this series of tapestries in the picture gallery of the castle.

The Gothic block wallpaper that goes halfway up the walls is a reproduction of an eighteenth century Irish wallpaper, reproduced by David Skinner.

The ceiling outlines the keyhole shape of this room, created by the addition of a square tower to the circular medieval tower during the 15th century.

The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Desius Mus and Manlius Torquatus leave to fight the Latins. There are two tapestries from the “Decius” suite in the Tapestry room. The tapestries are attributed to the workshop of Jan Raes, after designs by Sir Peter Paul Rubens. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The obsequies of Decius Mus. The Story of ‘Decius Mus’ is a heroic tale of a Roman Consul who foretold his own death at the Battle of Veseris (Vesuvius) in the Latin War (340BC). You can read more about these tapestries on the Kilkenny Castle website. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the tapestries.
Information about the tapestries.
Japanese chest. A fine early black lacquer and chinoiserie decorated lift-top chest, with large engraved brass lock place, on a stand with short square legs. This travelling chest belonged to the Duke of Ormond and is an important remnant of the late 17th century furnishing of Kilkenny Castle. The Gothic style hand blocked wallpaper was reproduced by David Skinner from Malahide Castle, one of the very few examples of Irish produced wallpaper from the 18th century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Tapestry Room, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle. The ceiling outlines the keyhole shape of this room, created by the addition of a square tower to the circular medieval tower during the 15th century. One one side is the portrait of James Butler (1610-1688), 1st Duke of Ormond, 12th Earl of Ormond, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, by Peter Lely. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
James Butler (1610-1688), 1st Duke of Ormond, 12th Earl of Ormond, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, by Peter Lely (1618-1680). Wearing robes of the Order of the Garter, Ormond holds the wand of office of Lord Steward of the Household in his right hand. The portrait is probably that referred to in a series of letters written by Ormond’s agents, John Buck in England and Sir George Lane in Ireland, during the years 1662 to 1663. In a letter dated May 1663, John Buck wrote: ‘…the latter end of this month I shall send from hence a most excellent picture of My Lord Duke’s, I think you saw the face done before you went; by that time I am promised the Queen’s for my Lady Duchess to send along with it: Mr. Lilly tells me there is one very good at cappeinge [copying?] in Dublin, if not pray let me receive your farther commands; Mr. Lilly will presently part with the Duchess’ pictures for you, if you can procure any to bring directions from Her Highness to him for it.’ [HMC Ormonde Mss, iii, 55]. This is the finest extant portrait of the duke. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle is in the North Tower with its 12 ft thick walls. Portrait of Honora Bourke (1675-1698), Countess of Lucan and Duchess of Berwick, French School 17th century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Honora Bourke (1675-1698), Countess of Lucan and Duchess of Berwick. French School 17th century. She was the daughter of William Bourke, 7th Earl of Clanricarde and Lady Helen MacCarty. Honora’s sister was Margaret, Lady Iveagh, wife of Thomas Butler of Kilcash. She married, firstly, General Patrick Sarsfield, 1st Earl of Lucan, son of Patrick Sarsfield, circa 9 January 1689/90 and secondly, James FitzJames, 1st Duke of Berwick-Upon-Tweed, son of James II Stuart, King of Great Britain and Arabella Churchill, on 26 March 1695 at Saint-Germain-en-Laye, Île-de-France, France. Honora died aged 22 at Pesenas in France. Both her sons inherited their father’s titles. Oval, 1/2 length portrait. Sitter wears a yellow dress with a blue ermine-trimmed, blue wrap. It was possibly taken from a portrait painted on the occasion of her marriage to the Duke of Berwick at St-Germain-en-Laye. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle is in the North Tower with its 12 ft thick walls. This room was called the Great Chamber in the 17th century and the walls were decorated with embossed and gilded leather hangings on the walls. Portraits of James Butler (1665-1745), 2nd Duke of Ormonde, 13th Earl of Ormonde, after Michael Dahl (1659-1743), and Thomas Wentworth (1593-1641), 1st Earl of Stafford. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Thomas Wentworth (1593-1641), 1st Earl of Stafford, Lord Deputy General, Lord lieutenant of Ireland, after Anthony van Dyck (1599-1641). In the late 1620s, Wentworth was MP in opposition to the Crown, but was to become one of Charles I’s principal supporters from 1629 until his death. During his time in Ireland as Lord Lieutenant, Strafford sought to further royal interest, and in so doing he also managed to enrich himself. As a result of his manoeuvres and his own self-aggrandisement, he made many powerful enemies. His final effort on the King’s behalf-the formation of a standing army in Ireland to defend royal’s interest- was to lead to his ultimate downfall in 1640. Rumours spread that the army was to be used to invade England. He was committed to the Tower of London, and in January 1641 was impeached for high treason. The King signed his death warrant, and he was executed on Tower Hill in May 1641. Head and shoulders in armour, after a portrait by Sir Anthony van Dick painted in 1636. Van Dyck painted two portraits of the sitter in armour, one a full-length, the other a three-quarter-length. Numerous smaller copies were also made by studio assistants. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information board about the Tapestry Room.
The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle, with the portrait of King Charles II in the background. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Tapestry Room in Kilkenny Castle. The colour orange is an early 19th century burnt Sienna distemper known as Malahide Orange, which was also found at Malahide Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
State chair, Original of Kilkenny Castle, a Charles II walnut state chair covered with both early 18th and possibly 17th century leather with very colourful decorations on back. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

From the website: “Today the first floor space is occupied by three rooms: Anteroom, Library and Drawing Room, as it was in the 19th century. The processional lay out of the rooms, each opening into the next is characteristic of the Baroque style of the 17th century and was know as an ‘enfilade’ suite of rooms. Baroque protocol dictated that visitors of lower rank than their host would be escorted by servants down the enfilade to the nearest room that their status allowed.

In the 16th and 17th century the State Rooms were situated on this floor. 17th century history records that it was in these state apartments that James Butler 1st Duke of Ormonde received the Papal Nuncio Giovanni Battista Rinuccini during the Irish Confederate Wars of that century.

James Butler, 1st Duke of Ormonde (1610–1688) after John Michael Wright courtesy of National Trust images.

The Kilkenny castle website continues: “An Anteroom was a small room used as a waiting room, that leads into a larger and more important room. The Anteroom and the room below, today the Serving Room, were constructed in the area where an earlier stone staircase was situated.” The anteroom features a reproduction poplin wallpaper and bronze figurines in niches.

The Ante Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Anteroom, Kilkenny Castle. Pair of large cast bronze art nouveau female figures, holding torches, suitable for conversion to electricity, as lamp holders. Semi-clad and standing on a circular base, the female figures hold a torch as a lamp holder in their hands, signed E. Rossi. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The anteroom leads to the library. “The interior decoration is a faithful recreation of the furnishing style of the mid to late 19th century. Thanks to a salvaged fabric remnant found behind a skirting board, it was possible to commission the French silk poplin on the walls in its original pattern and colour from the firm of Prelle in Lyons in France. The claret silk damask curtains are also based on the originals were made in Ireland.

For identification of the portraits in this room, see my footnotes. [10] Not all of the sitters seem to be immediately connected to the Ormonde family.

The Library. Briefly, the portraits on the wall over the door are, from the left, an unknown lady; possibly Rachel Russell the wife of William, 2nd Duke of Devonshire. Rachel was related by marriage to the Ormonde family, her husband was the son of Mary Butler, 1st Duchess of Devonshire; James Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde, 19th Earl of Ormonde; Elizabeth Jones (1665-1758), after William Wissing. Wife of John Fitzgerald, 18th Earl of Kildare; and an unknown lady. Photograph courtesy of Kilkenny Castle website.

One of the nine massive curtain pelmets is original and an Irish firm of Master Gilders faithfully reproduced matching gilt reproductions. The bookcases were also reproduced based on one original bookcase acquired by the OPW in the 1980s, this original with its 19th century glass stands in the right end corner of the library. The matching pair of pier mirrors over the mantelpieces was conserved and re gilded.”

The Library, Kilkenny Castle. The claret silk damask curtains are also based on the originals were made in Ireland. One of the nine massive curtain pelmets is original and an Irish firm of Master Gilders faithfully reproduced matching gilt reproductions. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Library, Kilkenny Castle. The claret silk damask curtains are also based on the originals were made in Ireland. One of the nine massive curtain pelmets is original and an Irish firm of Master Gilders faithfully reproduced matching gilt reproductions. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Library, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Berber style rugs were designed and woven for this room by the firm of Woodward Grosvenor in the 1990s. The restoration team were fortunate in finding the original receipt for the carpet in the family papers, and were able to trace the original company who had retained the design records. The design is based on patterns adapted from Izmir motifs. The Woodward Grosvenor company was based in Kidderminster, England. The town has been a centre of weaving for many centuries, and in the mid – late 18th century began to specialize in new forms of carpet weaving, earning the title of Carpet Capital of Britain. The company was founded in 1790 by Henry Woodward. in 1855 with his partner Benjamin Grosvenor, he build the Stour valley Mill, the first steam-powered carpet mill in Britain.

Information board about the library in Kilkenny Castle.
The Library, Kilkenny Castle. The matching pair of pier mirrors over the mantelpieces was conserved and re gilded. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Grace Louisa Staples (1779-1860) by John Comerford (1773-1835). Daughter of the Rt Hon John Staples of Lissan, near Dungannon, and Henrietta, fourth daughter of Richard, 3rd Viscount Molesworth, she married James Butler, 19th earl and 1st Marquess of Ormonde, in 1807. This small, half-length portrait is a variation on the full-length portrait of the sitter by John Saunders displayed in the Picture Gallery. Then Louisa Anne Molesworth (1749-1824), Lady Ponsonby, and later Countess Fitzwilliam, by Hugh Douglas Hamilton (ca.1739-1808). The fourth daughter of the 3rd Viscount Molesworth and his second wife Mary Usher, she married William Brabazon (later Baron) Ponsonby of Imokillly, Co. Cork, in 1769. Secondly, in 1823, she married Earl Fitzwilliam when he was 75 and she 73. Then Inscribed on the back: “Anastasie de Crussol, daughter to the dear friend of Mary Countess of Harcourt who lived during the time of the Emigration of the French principally at St Leonards, she died soon after the birth of her daughter. Her mother was daughter to the Duc de Montilmar.” Bottom, Charles Robert Moore (1848-1869), unknown artist, Inscribed on the back: “My beloved uncle [as a] child Charles Robt Moore he died at Alexandria aged 21 in 1869. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
James Butler (1774-1838), 1st Marquess of Ormonde, 19th Earl of Ormonde, by John Comerford (1773-1835). This small, half-length portrait is a variation on the full-length portrait of the sitter by John Saunders displayed in the Picture Gallery. Then Hon Henrietta Molesworth (d. 1813) by Hugh Douglas Hamilton (1740-1808). Eldest daughter of the 3rd Viscount Molesworth and his second wife Mary Usher, she married the Rt Hon John Staples of Lissan, Co Tyrone, in 1774. Their daughter, Grace Louisa Staples married James Butler, 19th Earl and 1st Marquis of Ormonde. Then Mrs Ross, attributed to Adam Buck (1759-1833). Isabella Barbara Evelyn was the daughter of Sir Gunning Bart and Ann Sutton. She married General Alexander Ross (1742-1827) in 1795. Bottom, Lady Flora Hastings (1806-1839), attributed to Adam Buck. Eldest child of Francis Rawdon Hastings, 1st Marquess of Hastings and Flora Mure Campbell, Countess of Loudown. In 1834 the unmarried Flora was appointed lady-in-waiting to future Queen Victoria’s mother, the Duchess of Kent. She was the innocent centre of a scandal that rocked court and government and caused Victoria’s popularity to plummet.
The Library, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Library, Kilkenny Castle. A Pillar Zogroscope or Optical device was popular during the latter half of the 18th century as parlour amusements. The zogroscope was designed to magnify prints so they could be seen more easily with enhanced depth. It has a convex lens mounted in a square wooden frame that, in turn, is supported on a pedestal. A second frame, hinged at the top, holds a mirror that can be held out at any desired angle. The form came into use in the eighteenth century and remained popular throughout the nineteenth century. It was also known as an optical diagonal machine or cosmorama. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Georgian folding table. An intricately inlayed walnut table in the Georgian breakfast style. The Georgian period saw an increase in formality in dining and furniture design becomes ever more elaborate and status defining. This table is thought to date from c.1800 at the time of the Act of union with the emblems of Ireland (shamrock), Scotland (thistle) and England (rose) displayed within the decoration. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Library, Kilkenny Castle.

The Drawing Room is typically the room in a house where guests and visitors are entertained. Drawing rooms were previously known as ‘withdrawing rooms’ or ‘withdrawing chambers’ which originated in sixteenth century.

The fabrics in this room are vintage glazed and block printed English and French chintzes and have been chosen to recreate the style of the rooms as they appeared in the 19th century family photographs. The Drawing Room picture hang reflects the Edward Ledwich description in his 1789 “Antiquities of Ireland!” when this room was the Presence Chamber or Alcove.

The Drawing Room, courtesy of Kilkenny Castle website. On the back wall is the painting of the five eldest children of King Charles I, after Sir Anthony van Dyck, and by the same artist, a portrait of Queen Henrietta Maria (1609-69).
The Drawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Drawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. One either side of the fireplace are portraits of Eleanor Morres (1711-1793) by Robert Hunter, she married Walter Butler, de jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, in 1732, and of her husband Walter Butler (1703-1783) De jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, also by Robert Hunter. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Drawing Room, Kilkenny Castle. One either side of the fireplace are portraits of Eleanor Morres (1711-1793) by Robert Hunter, she married Walter Butler, de jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, in 1732, and of her husband Walter Butler (1703-1783) De jure 16th Earl of Ormonde, also by Robert Hunter. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information board about the Drawing Room of Kilkenny Castle.
Kilkenny Castle drawing room, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Kilkenny Castle drawing room, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Kilkenny Castle drawing room, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

We went up another winding stone cantilevered staircase to the floor with the the blue corridor, with the bedrooms and nursery.

Private staircase, Kilkenny Castle. This elegant late Georgian style staircase from the early 1800s leads to the bedroom corridor of the same period. The holes where the brass stair rods to hold the carpet can still be seen in places. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Private staircase, Kilkenny Castle. This elegant late Georgian style staircase from the early 1800s leads to the bedroom corridor of the same period. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Blue corridor, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Fragments have this restful all-over floral pattern was found in this bedroom during the restoraion work. It probably dates from the late 19th century. It is likely to have been designed and block-printed in Ireland, although the name of the maker is not known. The two-dimensional form and lack of modelling reflect the ideas of the Design Reform movement, while the organic vitality of the lines suggests the influence of the English designer William Morris. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The watercolours on display were painted by Anne Wynne née Butler, daughter of John Wandesford Butler, 1st Marquess, and his wife Grace Louisa Staples. Grace herself painted and exhibited her paintings, and she made sure that all of her children learned to paint. Anne married J.A. Wynne of Hazelwood House in County Sligo in 1838.

The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from the Blue Room bedroom.

The photograph shows how much work the OPW had to do to make the bedroom fit for visitors.

The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle.

James 1st Marquess of 3rd creation died in Dublin in 1838 and was succeeded by his eldest son John Butler (1808-1854), who became 2nd Marquess, 20th Earl of Ormonde, Earl of Ossory and Viscount Thurles, Baron Ormonde of Lanthony, and Chief Butler of Ireland. John Butler travelled extensively. His Journals, now in the National Library of Ireland, record his many journeys across Europe to Italy and Sicily. He published an account of his travels, Autumn in Sicily, and he also wrote an account of the life of St. Canice, based on a Latin manuscript in the Burgundian library in Brussels.

John Butler (1808-1854) 2nd Marquess (3rd creation), 20th Earl of Ormonde, by Henry Weigall, Jr. (1829-1925). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

He married Frances Jane Paget in 1843. He continued the work of rebuilding Kilkenny castle that was started by his father. The castle website tells us that his journals show him to have a deep interest in art, and there are careful descriptions of several of the great galleries in Italy to be found in his writing.

Frances Jane Paget (1817-1903) Marchioness of Ormonde with her son James, Earl of Ossory by Richard Buckner (fl.1820-79). Daughter of General Edward Paget, GCB and his second wife Harriet daughter of George Legge, 3rd Earl of Dartmouth. Wife of John Butler, 2nd Marquess of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Although he continued to write in his journals during the years 1847 to 1850, no mention of the Irish famine is made.

He died while bathing in the sea near Loftus hall on Hook Head, Co. Wexford. A marble tomb was erected in his memory in St. Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny.

The Blue Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Top: Wedding of John Butler 2nd Marquess of Ormonde & Frances Jane Paget, 1843
Artist Edmund Fitzpatrick (fl. 1848-1883) The wedding procession in front of Kilkenny Castle, with groups of local people in the streets as the couple are recieved at the Gates. Below: Funeral of John Butler 2nd Marquess of Ormonde, 1854, Artist Edmund Fitzpatrick. The funeral procession in front of Kilkenny Castle, groups of local people in the streets.

The children were still young when their father died in 1854. Frances Jane looked after the Ormonde estates and continued the rebuilding of Kilkenny castle. During the early years of her marriage (1844-1849), she was the Lady of the bedchamber to the Queen Dowager, Adelaide.

Frances Jane Paget (1817-1903) Marchioness of Ormonde, Artist Unknown. Frances married in 1843, and so her children were still young when their father died in 1854. She looked after the Ormonde estates, and continued the rebuilding of Kilkenny castle. During the early years of her marriage(1844-1849), she was the Lady of the bedchamber to the Queen Dowager, Adelaide. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle: John Butler (1808-1854), 2nd Marquess of the 3rd creation, 20th Earl of Ormonde, Earl of Ossory and Viscount Thurles, Baron Ormonde of Lanthony, Chief Butler of Ireland; Frances Jane Paget in middle (1817-1903), with her son James, Earl of Ossory. On top of the three,  over her father and uncle, is Frances Jane Paget again, with her dog. Below is her father General the Honourable Edward Paget (1775-1849), soldier and Governor of Ceylon. He was second in command under the Duke of Wellington in the Napoleonic Wards. He lost his right arm in Spain. Below him is Field Marshall Henry William Paget (1768-1854), 1st Marquis of Anglesey, Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, brother of Edward, above. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
General the Honourable Edward Paget (1775-1849), soldier and Governor of Ceylon, attributed to Sir Martin Archer Shee (1769-1850). He was the father of Frances Jane Paget, wife of the 2nd Marquess. He was second in command under the Duke of Wellington in the Napoleonic Wards. He lost his right arm in Spain. He is seated wearing the red ribbon of the knight of the Grand Cross of the order of the Bath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Another bedroom is the Chinese Bedroom, connected to the blue bedroom by double doors. This bedroom is decorated with a modern reproduction of a hand painted Chinese wallpaper, part of the Chinoiserie theme of the room. The wallpaper was based on a design from Lissan House in County Tyrone, owned by the Staples family, Grace Louisa Staples became Marchioness of Ormonde when she married James Butler, 19th Earl, 1st Marquess of Ormonde in 1807.

The Chinese Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Chinese Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. A large early black lacquered and chinoiserie decorated Chinese Cabinet and two doors with engraved gilt metal mounts enclosing an arrangement of ten drawers, on a stand with cabriole legs and scroll feet. A rare antique Chinese eight fold lacquered screen, profusely carved and decorated with figures by pavilions, various mythical and domestic animals, birds, flowers and emblems on one side, and the other side inscribed all over. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

I particularly love the eagle holding up the drapery of the bed!

The Chinese Bedroom, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The nursery is also off the blue corridor.

The Nursery. Boys were usually sent away to boarding school in England at a young age. The Butlers traditionally sent their sons to Harrow. Girls however generally received less formal education at home including sewing, drawing, etiquette and instruction on running a household. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The nursery, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The nursery, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The nursery, Kilkenny Castle. Noah’s Arks have been made at least since the 1700s and were one of the most popular wooden toys of the nineteenth century. Nearly every well to do Victorian family had one. Due to their biblical theme, Noah’s Arks were often the only toy children were permitted to play with on Sundays. During the 19th century most arks were made in Germany where entire families would carve and paint the animals. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The nursery, Kilkenny Castle. Pictured is a Zoetrope. The Kilkenny castle website tells us that from first scientific toys that used animated images to modern movies, retinal persistence has been fundamental to fooling the mind into believing that a series of static images are in motion. In 1834, the English mathematician George Horner proposed a practical apparatus based on the phenakistoscope of Plateau and Stampfer (1830). It eliminated the need for a mirror and it enabled several people at the same time to view the moving pictures – an advance over the single spectator of the earlier toy. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Praxinoscope: This scientific toy with animated images also relies on retinal persistence to make us believe we are seeing images in motion. The praxinoscope was patented by the Frenchman Emile Reynaud in 1877, who was looking to overcome the deficiencies of the zoetrope, the most popular at the time. His apparatus was the first to eliminate the distorted view of the images in movement caused by insufficient light passing through the small slots of the zoetrope. This improvement in the quality of the image resulted in its immediate popularity. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Nursery, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The son of the 2nd Marquess, James Edward William Theobald Butler became the 3rd Marquess in 1854.

James Edward Theobald Wandesford Butler (1844-1919) 3rd Marquess of Ormonde (3rd creation), 21st Earl of Ormonde by Hon Henry Richard Graves (fl.1846-81). This hangs in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Son of John and Frances Jane, he is the little boy seated in his mother’s lap in the portrait by Buckner. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Elizabeth Harriet Grosvernor (1856-1928) Marchioness of Ormonde, by Hon Henry Richard Graves (fl.1846-81). This hangs in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Eldest Daughter of the 1st Duke of Westminster, she married James 3rd Marquess of Ormonde in 1876. They had two daughters famed for their beauty. Lady Beatrice Pole-Carew and lady Constance Butler. A noted beauty of her day, the marchioness wearing a long cream dress, stands in a landscape. A good example of a fashionable society portrait of of the period. The portrait was painted as a pendant to that of her husband. The portrait is based on Gainsborough’s portrait, the Hon. Mrs. Thomas Graham ( Nat. Gal. Scotland); it is another example of ‘borrowing’ poses for portraiture. Sir John Millias also painted the marchioness, a portrait engraved F Jenkins, Paris. A watercolour portrait of her with Kilkenny castle in the background by Edward Clifford is also known. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Educated at Harrow, the 3rd Marquess served as Captain for ten years with the First Life Gaurds and was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Co. Kilkenny in 1878, a post he held until his death. During the marquess’s time, a number of royal visitors came to Kilkenny Castle; these included the Duke and Duchess of York in 1899, followed in 1904 by King Edward VII and Queen Alexandria.

From the Poole photographic collection, National Library of Ireland. Royal visitors to the Picture Gallery of Kilkenny Castle: the Duke and Duchess of York (later King George V and Queen Mary with James Butler the 3rd Marquess of Ormond and his wife Elizabeth Grosvenor, also Two other Ormondes (likely the Marquess’ daughter & brother), Marshal & Lady Roberts (Frederick Roberts & Nora Bews), 4th Viscount & Viscountess De Vesci (John Vesey & Evelyn Charteris), Lady Eva Dugdale (later Lady of the Bedchamber), Earl of Ava (Hamilton-Temple-Blackwood d.1900), Sir Charles Leopold Cust (baronet), Sir Francis De Winton, Mr J. T Seigne JP (officer of Ormonde’s estate – we came across him when we visited Kilfane, as he lived in the house there), and “Mr Moncrieffe” 
James Edward William Theobald Butler (1844-1919) 3rd Marquess of Ormonde by Walter Stoneman 1917, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery NPG x43817.
James Edward William Theobald Butler (1844-1919) 3rd Marquess of Ormonde, probably with his wife.

James 3rd Marquess was an Officer of the Life Guards and a Knight of the Order of St. Patrick.

Swords and scabbards once owned by James Edward William Theobald Butler (1844-1919) 3rd Marquess of Ormonde. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the swords.

It was during the 3rd Marquess’s time that changes were made to the rather plain picture gallery block created by William Robertson. It was built on earlier foundations, primarily to house the Butler Family’s collection of paintings. Initially the gallery was built with a flat roof that had begun to cause problems shortly after its completion.

Kilkenny Castle picture gallery wing. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The architectural firm of Deane and Woodward was called in during the 1860s to make changes to the overall design of the picture gallery block and corrections to Robertson’s work. These changes included the insertions of four oriels in the west wall and the blocking up of the eight windows, while another oriel added to the east wall.

Kilkenny Castle picture gallery wing. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Plan for an oriel window at Kilkenny Castle. I’m not sure if this was made, as it is different from the oriel windows in the gallery wing of the castle.
End of the picture gallery wing Kilkenny Castle . Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Sketches of the south end of the picture gallery, Kilkenny Castle.
Sketches of the picture gallery wing, Kilkenny Castle.
The drawing for the river front of Kilkenny Castle.
Blocked up windows by Woodward and Deane in the picture gallery on the river side of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Woodward and Deane also built the fantastical Moorish staircase to give better access to the picture gallery. Charles Harrison (1835-1903), the stone carver, is credited with the carved naturalistic foliage and small animals which adorn the stairs.

The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Created by the architects Woodward & Deane to allow better access to the Picture Gallery and provide another staircase in this awkwardly shaped building. It is a rising half-turn stairs around a sky-lit well.
Charles Harrison (1835-1903), the stone carver, is credited with the carved naturalistic foliage and small animals which adorn the stairs
. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Moorish Staircase: Created by the architects Woodward & Deane to allow better access to the Picture Gallery and provide another staircase in this awkwardly shaped building. It is a rising half-turn stairs around a sky-lit well. Charles Harrison (1835-1903), the stone carver, is credited with the carved naturalistic foliage and small animals which adorn the stairs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kilkenny Castle Moorish staircase, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Information about the Moorish Staircase.
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Created by the architects Woodward & Deane to allow better access to the Picture Gallery and provide another staircase in this awkwardly shaped building. It is a rising half-turn stairs around a sky-lit well. Charles Harrison (1835-1903), the stone carver, is credited with the carved naturalistic foliage and small animals which adorn the stairs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle.
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle.
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Charles Harrison (1835-1903), the stone carver, is credited with the carved naturalistic foliage and small animals which adorn the stairs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Moorish Staircase, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The magnificent Picture Gallery is situated in the east wing of Kilkenny Castle. Deane and Woodward changed the flat roof to a toplit one with impressive wooden beams.

The hammer beam roof structure by Deane and Woodward is supported on carved stone corbels, carved by the O’Shea brothers from Kilkenny. The ceiling was hand painted by John Hungerford Pollen (1820-1902), Professor of Fine Arts at Newman College in Dublin. The decoration is from the quasi-medieval and pre-Raphaelite, and reminds me of Seán Leslie’s painting on beams in Castle Leslie. The cross beams of the gallery feature gilded animal and bird heads. It has taken me several visits to Kilkenny Castle to take it all in!

The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle was built during the early nineteenth century building programme carried out by the architect William Robertson. It was constructed on earlier foundations. Robertston’s Picture Gallery, in keeping with his work on the rest of the castle, was in a Castellated Baronial style. Initially the gallery was built with a flat roof that had begun to cause problems shortly after its completion. The distinguished architectural firm of Deane and Woodward was called in during the 1860s to make changes to the overall design of the Picture Gallery block, and other corrections to Robertson’s work. These changes included the insertions of four oriels in the west wall and the blocking up of the eight windows, while another oriel added to the east wall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The picture gallery, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle.
Kilkenny Castle picture gallery, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Picture Gallery, Kilkenny Castle.
Kilkenny Castle picture gallery, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. A pitched roof was put in place of the leaking flat one, with top lighting; that originally had green glass. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. A pitched roof was put in place of the leaking flat one, with top lighting; that originally had green glass. The hammer beam roof structure by Deane and Woodward is supported on carved stone corbels, carved by the O’Shea brothers from Kilkenny. The entire ceiling was hand painted by John Hungerford Pollen (1820-1902), then Professor of Fine Arts at Newman College, Dublin, using a combination of motifs ranging from the quasi-medieval to the pre-Raphaelite, with interlace, gilded animal and bird heads on the cross beam. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. The entire ceiling was hand painted by John Hungerford Pollen (1820-1902), then Professor of Fine Arts at Newman College, Dublin, using a combination of motifs ranging from the quasi-medieval to the pre-Raphaelite, with interlace, gilded animal and bird heads on the cross beam. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The hammer beam roof structure by Deane and Woodward is supported on carved stone corbels, carved by the O’Shea brothers from Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the painted roof of the picture gallery in Kilkenny Castle.
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. It’s worth looking at all of the different pre-Raphaelite style paintings. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. It’s worth looking at all of the different pre-Raphaelite style paintings. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. It’s worth looking at all of the different pre-Raphaelite style paintings. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Picture Gallery in Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the paintings in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Some date from the 17th century, and others from 18th and 19th. In the 19th cnetury, there were 200 paintings in the gallery.
Henrietta Maria Stanley (1687-1718) & her sister Elizabeth (d.1714), English school 18th century. This hangs in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle. Daughters of William, 9th Earl of Derby and his wife Elizabeth Butler, daughter of Thomas Butler, Earl of Ossory, they would been nieces of the 2nd Duke of Ormonde. Henrietta was married to the Earl of Anglesea in 1706 ad then to John, 1st Earl of Ashburnham in 1714. She has been identified from other portraits of her painted during the first two decades of the eighteenth century. Ashburnham had previously been married to Mary, her first cousin, daughter of the 2nd Duke of Ormonde. Henrietta died in 1718 aged 31 years. Elizabeth Stanley died unmarried in 1714. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There are more of the Decius tapestries in the picture gallery.

There are three tapestries from the “Decius” suite in the Picture Gallery: Desius Mus preparing for death; The dismissal of the lictors; The death of Decius Mus. The tapestries are attributed to the workshop of Jan Raes, after designs by Sir Peter Paul Rubens. This one is the Dismissal of the lictors. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the tapestry in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle.
Stephen studies The Death of Decius. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the tapestries in the picture gallery of Kilkenny Castle.

The large marble fireplace is also designed by John Hungerford Pollen. It was supplied by the firm of Ballyntyne of Dorset Street, Dublin. Foliage carving attributed to Charles Harrison covers the chimneypiece and a frieze beneath is decorated with seven panels, showing the family coat of arms and significant episodes from the family’s long history.

The Marble Fireplace is made of Carrara marble and was designed by J. H. Pollen also in a quasi-medieval style.
It was supplied by the firm of Ballyntyne of Dorset Street, Dublin. Foliage carving attributed to Charles Harrison covers the chimneypiece and a frieze beneath is decorated with seven panels, showing the family coat of arms and significant episodes from the family’s long history.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Starting on the left, the first panel shows the buying the castle by the first Earl of Ormond in 1391 from the Despenser family – money changing hands is shown. The second panel depicts Theobald Fitzwalter acting as Chief Butler to the newly crowned King of England highlighting their ancient royal privilege and upon which their surname of Butler is based. On the third panel, you see King Richard the Second acting as godfather for one of the infants of the Butler family in 1391. The centrepiece is the family crest which can also be seen over the arch and gateway, with the family motto “comme je trouve”- “as I find”, as well as the heraldic shield guarded, the falcon, the griffin (a legendary creature with the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle) and the ducal coronet. In the fifth panel, the 1st Duke of Ormond can be seen entering the Irish House of Lords still bearing his sword. Indeed, he refused to hand his weapon over as were the protocols in case it was used inside during an argument; this became known as The Act of Defiance. The sixth panel next to this symbolizes the charity of the Butler family showing Lady Ormonde giving alms to the poor. Finally, the sixth and last panel portrays the First Duke of Ormond’s triumphant return to Dublin from exile on the Restoration of Charles the Second in 1662, when he also established the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham and founded the Phoenix Park.”
The castle website tells us that this is a Mahogany side table c.1740 with green marble tops (most likely Connemara) in the style of William. Kent. The apron has lion mask against stylised acanthus under a frieze of egg and dart. The tables show the influence of William Kent (1684-1748) in the realistic and bold detail and are either English or Irish, the slight punching on the apron possibly indicating the latter. There is eye-catching detail in the lion’s mane and the legs are especially hairy and vivid. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A hopper commemorates the date 1877, so perhaps some of the building work on Kilkenny Castle was completed in that year.

James was the last marquess to live at Kilkenny Castle. He died there and is buried in the private family cemetery. The 3rd Marquess’s brother James Arthur Wellington Foley Butler (1849-1943) became 4th Marquess (and 22nd Earl) of Ormonde in 1919. James’ principal home was at Gennings, Kent where he died in 1943. It seems such a pity his father had improved the picture gallery and he didn’t live there!

James Arthur Wellington Foley Butler (1849-1943) 4th Marquess, 22nd Earl of Ormonde, by Philip de Laszlo (1869 – 1937). This portrain hangs in the Hall of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

He was educated at Harrow and joined the army becoming a lieutenant in the 1st Life Guards. He was state steward to the Earl of Carnarvon when Lord Lieutenant of Ireland. In 1887 he married Ellen Stager, daughter of American General Anson Stager.

Lord and Lady Arthur Butler purchased Gennings Park in Kent in 1901. The purchase of country estate after fourteen years of marriage was reportedly made following the death of Lord Arthur’s cousin George O’Callaghan, 2nd Viscount Lismore in 1899; Lord Lismore had reportedly informed his family that, following the deaths of his two sons, Lord Arthur Butler would be the heir to his estates (a 47,000-acre estate in Ireland centred on Shanbally Castle worth £18,435 annually). [11] Following Lord Lismore’s death in 1898, his Will revealed that he had instead named Lord Arthur’s nieces Lady Beatrice and Lady Constance Butler as the beneficiaries of his estate. [12]

Shanbally Castle, County Tipperary, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

Gennings Park remained the home of Ellen, Lady Arthur Butler (later Marchioness of Ormonde) until her death in 1951. Her son was James George Anson Butler, 23rd Earl, 5th Marquess, 24th Chief Butler (1890–1959). George was educated at Harrow and Sandhurst. In 1915 he married Sybil Fellowes, daughter of 2nd Lord de Ramsey and Winston Churchill’s first cousin. They had two children, Moira and Anthony. George and Sybil were in residence at Kilkenny Castle in 1922 when the building was occupied by Republicans and besieged by troops of the Free State.

He oversaw the 1935 auction of contents at Kilkenny Castle. His younger brother succeeded him, James Arthur Norman Butler, 24th Earl, 6th Marquess, 30th Chief Butler (1893–1971). Arthur was educated at Harrow and Sandhurst. He pursued a military career and served in both world wars. From 1945 onwards, Arthur lived at Gennings Park in Kent with his widowed mother Ellen. In 1955, after her death, he moved with his wife to Cantley Farm, Wokingham, Berkshire. In 1967 he sold the Castle to the Kilkenny Castle Restoration Committee for £50. Two years later it went into state ownership.

As I mentioned earlier, it was James Arthur Norman Butler (1893-1971), 6th Marquess and 24th Earl of Ormonde, youngest son of James Arthur, 4th Marquess of Ormonde, who in 1967 sold the Castle.

The next Earl was a cousin, James Hubert Theobald Charles Butler, 25th Earl, 7th Marquess, 31st Chief Butler (1899–1997). He was a grandson of James Butler, 21st Earl of Ormonde and a cousin of the 23rd and 24th Earls of Ormonde. Upon his death, the Marquessate of Ormonde became extinct and the Earldoms of Ormonde and Ossory and the Viscountcy of Thurles became dormant.

It is now a wonderful place to visit, and has fifty acres of rolling parkland, a terraced rose garden, playground, tearoom and man-made lake, for visitors to enjoy. We enjoyed a delicious moist slice of fruitcake in the vaulted café, which must have been the kitchen, before heading out for a walk around the park.

The café is in the old kitchen of Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kitchen, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Kitchen, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Service bells in the Kitchen, Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com

[2] https://kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/

[3] p. 167. Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[4] https://kilkennycastle.ie/about/characters-of-kilkenny-castle/

[5] p. 67, Otway-Ruthven, A. J. A History of Medieval Ireland New York: Barnes & Noble 1993.

[6] https://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2014/09/kilkenny-castle.html

[7] http://www.stevenroyedwards.com/kilkennycastle-timeline.html

[8] p. 192. Murray, James (2009). Enforcing the English Reformation in Ireland. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, “Whether Ormond’s death was directly attributable to the viceroy’s actions, or simply a remarkable coincidence, is now impossible to determine.”

[9] Knocktopher Abbey in County Kilkenny, a house incorporating the remains of the first Carmelite friary in Ireland, rebuilt for Lieutenant-Colonel Sir James Langrishe JP DL (1832-1910) after a fire. It was rebuilt around 1866 in High Victorian Gothic to the design of John McCurdy. The paintings on display are part of a generous bequest to Kilkenny Castle from Lady Grania Langrishe in July of 2012.

John Langrishe  (1660-1735), son of Hercules Langrishe (the first member of the family who settled in Ireland), became proprietor of the borough of Knocktopher, County Kilkenny. 

Knocktopher Abbey, Knocktopher, Co. Kilkenny, for sale courtesy DNG Country Homes & Estates, November 2024.
Portrait of an unknown gentleman perhaps John Langrishe (1660-1735), the first of the family to arrive in Knocktopher, father of Robert. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Mr Langrishe, High Sheriff of County Kilkenny, 1696, married firstly, Alicia, second daughter of Harry, 2nd Baron Blayney, and widow of Thomas Sandford, of Sandford Court; and secondly, Miss Sandford, daughter of Colonel Sandford; but had issue by neither of those ladies. 

He wedded thirdly, Mary, daughter of Robert Grace, feudal baron of Courtstown, and had an only son, his successor, Robert Langrishe  (c.1696-1769).

Robert Langrishe (1696-1769), artist unknown. He held the office of High Sheriff in 1740 and completed the outright purchase of the fee simple of the Knocktopher lands of over 800 acres in 1757 according to William Nolan and Kevin Phelan in Kilkenny, History and Society 1990. His son Hercules was to become first Baronet of Knocktopher. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Robert served as High Sheriff of County Kilkenny in 1740 amd Gentleman Usher of the Black Rod in Ireland 1745-9. His son and heir Hercules Langrishe (1731-1811) served as MP for Knocktopher 1761-1800. Hercules was created a baronet in 1777, denominated  of Knocktopher Abbey, County Kilkenny. 

Right Hon. Sir Hercules Langrishe (1731-1811), 1st Baronet Knocktopher, artist unknown. The Langrishe Baronetcy of Knocktopher Abbey in the County of Kilkenny is a title in the Baronetage of Ireland. It was created on 19 February 1777 for Sir Hercules Langrishe, who represented Knocktopher in the Irish House of Commons. The Langrishe family were part the social world of the Butlers. They were present at many social occasions in Kilkenny Castle including the Royal Visits to the Castle. The family seat from 1679 to 1981 was Knocktopher Abbey, County Kilkenny. The 1st Baronet was MP for Knocktopher for 40 years until the Act of union in 1801. It is said he bought up lands in Knocktopher and leased it to Catholic residents. He was created 1st Baronet in 1777. Best remembered for his pro Catholic Relief stance and his exchange of views with his friend Edmund Burke. He introduced the Catholic Relief Bill in 1792 and The Catholic Enfranchisement Act which passed in 1793. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Sir Hercules, who was a member of the Privy Council, represented the borough of Knocktopher in the Irish parliament for forty years, during which period he ranked amongst the most distinguished of its members, and was the first who advocated and obtained a partial relaxation of the most atrocious code of laws which oppressed the Roman Catholics of Ireland, a code that consigned 80% of the population to unmitigated and grinding slavery, and reduced the whole of the state to semi-barbarism. He was Commissioner of Excise and Revenue.

In 1755 he married Hannah, daughter and co-heir of Robert Myhill, of Killarney, County Kilkenny, and sister of Jane, wife of Charles, 1st Marquess of Ely. His successor was his son Robert Langrishe, 2nd Baronet (1756-1835).

Sir Robert Langrishe (1756–1835), 2nd Baronet Knockopher, artist unknown. MP for Knocktopher 1783-1796, he graduated as a barrister from Kings Inn and both father and son sat in Parliament at the same time. He was heavily involved in the theatre and was Revenue Commissioner in 1796. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Oil portrait of an unknown gentleman possibly Sir Robert Langrishe 2nd Baronet. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

In 1782 Robert married Anne, daugher of Bellingham Boyle.

Bellingham Boyle (1709-1771), unknown artist. His daughter married Sir Robt Langrishe 2nd Bt. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

His son was his successor, Hercules Richard 3rd Baronet (1782-1862), who joined the clergy.

Rev. Sir Hercules Richard Langrishe (1782-1862), 3rd Baronet of Knocktopher County Kilkenny, artist unknown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Sir Hercules was succeeded by his eldest son, James Langrishe (1832-1905), 4th Baronet Knocktopher.

James Langrishe (1832-1905), 4th Baronet Knocktopher, artist unknown. Married twice, he was a Lt. Col in the army and High Sheriff of Kilkenny 1866. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

He was succeeded by his son Hercules Langrishe (1859–1943), 5th Baronet Knocktopher.

Hercules Langrishe (1859–1943), 5th Baronet Knocktopher, Artist unknown. He gained the rank of Captain in the service of the Army Motor Reserve, of Captain and Honorary Major in the service of the 3rd Battalion, Oxfordshire Light Infantry and of Temporary Commander in the service of the Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve. He fought in the First World War, in the Mediterranean and Russia. He succeeded to the title of 5th Baronet on 20 August 1910. He held the office of Justice of the Peace for County Kilkenny, of High Sheriff of County Kilkenny and the office of Deputy Lieutenant of County Kilkenny. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is a portrait of the 5th Baronet’s son, Hercules Ralph Langrishe (1888-1917), also.

Hercules Ralph Langrishe (1888-1917), artist unknown. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[10] The Library and Drawing Room portraits:

Half-length portrait, said to be of Mr Martin Shee (d.1783), father of the artist Sir Martin Archer Shee P.R.A. The costume details would indicate a date of c. 1815. Shee’s father was known to be blind, and it is noticeable that the eyes in this portrait are unfocused. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Portrait of unknown lady, possibly member of Shee Family Artist Irish school, eighteenth century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Catherine Morres (d.1851) 1st Viscountess Frankfort de Montmorency. Artist John Comerford (1773-1835) Catherine Morres was the second wife of the Viscount Frankfort de Montmorency, and daughter of George White of Castlebellingham.
The family of Morres changed their name to de Montmorency in 1815, claiming descent from the Norman Geoffry de Marisco.
The claim has been dismissed in the following terms: ‘This cock and bull pedigree or genealogical nightmare, which for sheer topsy-turveydom, has, I venture to assert, never been surpassed.’ The sitter is wearing a large muslin bonnet of a type which was fashionable and worn by married ladies during the early years of the nineteenth century.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Catherine Vigors (1794-1820) by Robert Lawrence (1794-1820). Catherine was the daughter of Soloman Richards of Solborough, Co Wexford.She married Nicholas Aylward Vigors of Old Leighlin and Belmont, Co Carlow, in 1781. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Bellingham Boyle (1709-1771), unknown artist. His daughter married Sir Robt Langrishe 2nd Bt. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[11] O’Donnell, Michael (2010). Fethard County Tipperary 1200–2000. Dublin: Geography Publications. p. 142, 158. 

[12] The Lady’s Realm. Vol. 6. Hutchinson. 1899. p. 520. 

Loughcrew House, Loughcrew, Old Castle, Co. Meath – gardens and 482 accommodation

Tourist Accommodation

Open dates in 2026: all year

https://loughcrew.com/

Garden open dates in 2026: all year

Fee: adult €8, OAP/student €6, child €4, carers free

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

2026 Diary of Irish Historic Houses (section 482 properties)

To purchase an A5 size 2026 Diary of Historic Houses (opening times and days are not listed so the calendar is for use for recording appointments and not as a reference for opening times) send your postal address to jennifer.baggot@gmail.com along with €20 via this payment button. The calendar of 84 pages includes space for writing your appointments as well as photographs of the historic houses. The price includes postage within Ireland. Postage to U.S. is a further €10 for the A5 size calendar, so I would appreciate a donation toward the postage – you can click on the donation link.

€20.00

Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Loughcrew is listed under the Revenue Section 482 listing as Tourist Accommodation. Stephen and I stayed there along with about eighteen friends for our combined “Hen-Stag” in 2010! We spent a wonderful sunny May weekend, where we had a dinner at one long dining table, danced in the function room and swam in the nearby lake.

Loughcrew lake 23rd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The gardens are open to the public separately, as the house is not open to the public.

The house where we stayed was originally the Garden House. All that remains of the main house today is the now-freestandng portico. [1]

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010, the original carved limestone Ionic portico of the house from 1780, supporting the remains of a pediment. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew, April 2023.

Originally the seat of the Plunkett family, its most famous member being St. Oliver Plunkett (1625-1681), whose church still remains today on the estate, the first Loughcrew House was built in the 1600s by the Naper family. The property is still owned by the Napers.

Church remains, attached to a tower house where St. Oliver Plunkett was born in 1625. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Plunkett towerhouse. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Oliver Plunkett became a Catholic Archbishop of Armagh, but Catholics were persecuted in his time. He was accused of being part of the fictitious Popish Plot and was executed in Tyburn in London in 1681. He was canonised as a saint in 1975. His head is kept as a relic in St. Peter’s church in Drogheda.

Loughcrew, April 2023.
Oliver Plunket, by Edward Luttrell courtesy of National Portrait Gallery London.

Mark Bence-Jones writes in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988) that the house was said to have a curse on it, for it was burnt three times within 100 years.

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew, April 2023.

On the first two occasions the was rebuilt. The 1820s version was designed by Charles Robert Cockerell (1788-1863) for James Lenox William Naper (1791-1868). Charles Robert Cockerell was an English writer, architect and archaeologist who spent seven years on his Grand Tour. A lodge, lake, garden and conservatory were also designed at this time. The house was destroyed by fire in 1888 and rebuilt by Thomas Newenham Deane & Son.

After the third fire, in 1964, the ruin was demolished and “the vast stones and fallen capitals are now strewn about the ground like the remains of some lost city of antiquity.”

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Timothy William Ferres tells us that the Napers were the second largest landowners in County Meath, with 18,863 acres.

James Naper (abt. 1625-1676), fourth son of Sir Samuel Naper MP, of Moor Crichel, Dorset, and grandson of Robert Napier, Chief Baron of the Irish Exchequer, 1593, married Dorothy daughter of Sir Anthony Petty, of Romsey, Hampshire, and sister of the William Petty of Down Survey fame. [2]

The first Naper house, an artist’s impression.
Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James of Loughcrew and Dorothy had three sons and two daughters: William, the oldest son, died unmarried. The next son, James (d. 1718), was the successor. There was another son, Lt. Gen Robert, and then daughters Frances and Elizabeth.

Elizabeth (1660-1736/7) married Thomas Bligh (d. 1710) of Rathmore, County Meath, who served as MP for County Meath. Frances married Richard Ingoldsby (d. 1712), whose father had moved from England and was Mayor of Limerick.

James (d. 1718) was High Sheriff of County Meath in 1702 [see 2]. In 1684 he married Elizabeth, daughter of James Tandy, of Drewstown, County Meath, and by her had two daughters, Dorothy and Sarah. He then married Elizabeth Barry in 1695, daughter of Richard Barry (d. 1694) 2nd Baron Barry of Santry. Third, he married Anne, daughter of Ralph Dutton 1st Baronet Dutton, of Sherborne, Co. Gloucester.

Ralph Dutton, 1st Baronet Dutton, of Sherborne, Co. Gloucester. His daughter Anne married James Naper.

James and his third wife Anne had a son, James Lenox Naper (c. 1713-1776). He changed his name to Dutton so must have inherited property through his mother. 2nd Baronet Dutton died in 1743 with no heir so this must be when James inherited and changed his name to Dutton.

James Lenox Naper (c. 1713-1776) took the surname Dutton.

James Dutton né Lenox was High Sheriff of County Meath in 1740. In 1734 he married Catherine, daughter of Henry Ingoldsby, by whom he had an only child, John, who died unmarried in 1771. Secondly he married Jane, daughter of Christopher Bond, of Newland, Gloucestershire, and they had many children.

Their daughter Frances married Charles Lambart (d. 1819) whom we came across before as he lived at Beauparc in County Meath, another Section 482 property.

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 23rd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Their oldest son, James (1744-1820) succeeded as the 1st Baron Sherborne, of Sherborne, Co. Gloucester, the title from his great-uncle. It was the second son of James and Jane née Bond, William (1749-1791) who inherited Loughcrew. Since his older brother had continued the name of Dutton, circa 1777 William’s name was legally changed to William Naper by Act of Parliament, under the terms of his father’s will.

William married Jane Travell, daughter of the Rev Ferdinando Tracy Travell, of Gloucestershire. Loughcrew passed to their son, James Lenox William Naper (1791-1868). He was M.P, Justice of the Peace and Deputy Lieutenant for County Meath. He married Selina Skipworth, daughter of Grey, 8th Baronet Skipwith, of Prestwould, Co. Leicester, who lived in Newbold Hall, Warwickshire.

James Lennox William Naper (1791-1868) commissioned the building of Loughcrew House in 1823, a year after he was appointed High Sheriff of Meath. Ferres tells us that he was a busy landlord and writer, and he served as chairman of the Poor Law Guardians during the Famine years and subsidised the emigration of tenants to Canada in the 1830s. [see 2]

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James and Selina’s daughter Lelia Jane married Lt.-Col. John Nicholas Coddington (1828-1917) of Oldbridge, County Meath, the house that is now the location of the Battle of the Boyne museum (see my entry about Places to visit in County Meath).

James and Selina’s son James Lenox Naper (1825-1901) inherited the estate of Loughcrew. A younger son, William Dutton Naper, was Justice of the Peace and had a son, Lenox Arthur Dutton Naper (1877-1965).

James Lenox Naper (1825-1901), like his forebears, also served as Deputy Lieutenant. In 1877, at the age of 52, he married Catharine Frances Rowley, daughter of Clotworthy Wellington William Robert Rowley, 3rd Baron Langford of Summerhill, County Meath.

The first major fire at Loughcrew House in 1888, in James Lenox and Catharine Frances’s time. They hired Thomas Newenham Deane & Son to rebuild the house.

Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance to the walled garden, Loughcrew. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

James Lenox and Catharine Frances had a son, William Lenox Naper (1879-1942). He gained the rank of Captain in the Royal Horse Guards, and also served as Justice of the Peace. In 1902 he married Adela Mary Charlotte, eldest daughter of Colonel Walter Rodolph Trefusis. William Lenox Naper died at the age of 63 without having any children.

Lenox Arthur Dutton Naper (1877-1965) married Laura Daphne Theodora Annesley in 1912. She was the daughter of Major Oliver Francis Theodore Annesley. Lenox Arthur Dutton gained the rank of Lieutenant-Colonel in the Royal Artillery. It was his son, Nigel William Ivo Naper (1922-1978), who inherited the estate of Loughcrew.

Nigel married Carola Elisabeth Darley, daughter of Lt.-Col. Denis George Farren Darley of Prospect, Sallins, County Kildare. He fought in World War II and was awarded the Military Cross.

Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There were two more major fires in the house in 1959 and 1964. 

The Irish Land Commission took 600 acres of the estate in 1967 and it was divided between his three sons on Nigel`s death in 1978: James Denis Merrik Naper, Charles William Lenox Naper and Francis Graham Dutton Naper.

Charles married Emily Jane Dashwood in 1981. Emily and Charles Naper have converted the old conservatory Garden House, pavilions, servant quarters and stables into the current living area, school of gilding and studio area. The Garden House is attached to the original courtyards.

Loughcrew House, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew house 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 22nd May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

They have revived the 17th century gardens and established Loughcrew Garden Opera. Loughcrew Garden Opera has been holding operas and concerts in the grounds of the estate since 2000 during the summer months, which has proved immensely popular.

Weddings, exhibitions and craft workshops have also been held in the large rooms within the courtyard buildings.

The house currently comprises two principal reception rooms, two sun-rooms, kitchen, five bedrooms, a basement, and a guest wing with three further bedrooms.

Loughcrew April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew 21st May 2010. The rooms that make up the house now were originally the Azalea houses, Palm houses and furnace rooms. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Lougcrew Gardens have been created by generations of the Naper family since the 1660s. The Gardens are open to the public for a number of months during the year.

The gardens at Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The gardens at Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Map of the gardens.
A road ran from Tara through Loughcrew to the west of Ireland.
Entrance to the Plunkett tower house and church. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The church may have been added to the tower around 1519. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The church ruins and tower house at Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The ruined church at Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The church at Loughcrew, April 2023. This is the arms of the Naper familyit may have been brought from an earlier site. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The door of the church. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Medieval carving on the door of the church. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside the Plunkett tower house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Stephen in the Plunkett house and church, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Canal in the Loughcrew garden, 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Loughcrew, April 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.archiseek.com/2015/1825-loughcrew-house-co-meath/

[2] http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2013/05/loughcrew-house.html

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Office of Public Works properties: County Kilkenny, Leinster

Kilkenny:

1. Dunmore Cave, County Kilkenny

2. Jerpoint Abbey, County Kilkenny

3. Kells Priory, County Kilkenny

4. Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny

5. St. Mary’s Church, Gowran, County Kilkenny

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

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1. Dunmore Cave, Mothel, Ballyfoyle, Castlecomer Road, County Kilkenny:

General information: 056 776 7726, dunmorecaves@opw.ie

https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/dunmore-cave/

From the OPW website:

Dunmore Cave, not far from Kilkenny town, is a series of limestone chambers formed over millions of years. It contains some of the most impressive calcite formations found in any Irish underground structure.

The cave has been known for many centuries and is first mentioned in the ninth-century Triads of Ireland, where it is referred to as one of the ‘darkest places in Ireland’. The most gruesome reference, however, comes from the Annals of the Four Masters, which tells how the Viking leader Guthfrith of Ivar massacred a thousand people there in AD 928. Archaeological investigation has not reliably confirmed that such a massacre took place, but finds within the cave – including human remains – do indicate Viking activity.

Dunmore is now a show cave, with guided tours that will take you deep into the earth – and even deeper into the past.

2. Jerpoint Abbey, Thomastown, County Kilkenny.

Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

General information: 056 772 4623, jerpointabbey@opw.ie

https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/jerpoint-abbey/

From the OPW website:

Founded in the 12th century, Jerpoint Abbey is one of the best examples of a medieval Cistercian Abbey in Ireland. The architectural styles within the church, constructed in the late twelfth century, reflect the transition from Romanesque to Gothic architecture. The tower and cloister date to the fifteenth century.

Jerpoint is renowned for its detailed stone sculptures found throughout the monastery. Dating from the thirteenth to the sixteenth centuries these include mensa [table] tombs from the O’Tunney school, an exquisite incised depiction of two 13th century knights, the decorated cloister arcades along with other effigies and memorials. 

Children can explore the abbey with a treasure hunt available in the nearby visitor centre. Search the abbey to discover saints, patrons, knights, exotic animals and mythological creatures.

A small but informative visitor centre houses an excellent exhibition.

Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey, May 2016. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Jerpoint Abbey. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

3. Kells Priory, Kells, County Kilkenny:

General information: 056 772 4623, jerpointabbey@opw.ie

From the OPW website:

Kells Priory owes its foundation to the Anglo-Norman consolidation of Leinster. Founded by Geoffrey FitzRobert, a household knight and trusted companion of William Marshal the priory was one element of Geoffrey’s establishment of the medieval town of Kells. 

Although founded in c. 1193 extensive remains exist today which include a nave, chancel, lady chapel, cloister and associated builds plus the remains of the priory’s infirmary, workshop, kitchen, bread oven and mill. The existence of the medieval defences, surrounding the entire precinct, underline the military aspect of the site and inspired the priory’s local name, the ‘Seven Castles of Kells’.

4. Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny:

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by macmillan media 2016 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. It sits on the banks of the River Nore. [1]

General information: 056 770 4100, kilkennycastleinfo@opw.ie

From the OPW website:

Built in the twelfth century, Kilkenny Castle was the principal seat of the Butlers, earls, marquesses and dukes of Ormond for almost 600 years. Under the powerful Butler family, Kilkenny grew into a thriving and vibrant city. Its lively atmosphere can still be felt today.

The castle, set in extensive parkland, was remodelled in Victorian times. It was formally taken over by the Irish State in 1969 and since then has undergone ambitious restoration works. It now welcomes thousands of visitors a year.

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by unknown 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1]

See my entry https://irishhistorichouses.com/2024/04/08/kilkenny-castle-county-kilkenny-an-office-of-public-works-property/

Kilkenny Castle has been standing for over eight hundred years, dominating Kilkenny City and the South East of Ireland. Originally built in the 13th century by William Marshall, 4th Earl of Pembroke, as a symbol of Norman control, Kilkenny Castle came to symbolise the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormonde for over six hundred years. [2]

In 1967 James Arthur Norman Butler (1893-1971), 6th Marquess and 24th Earl of Ormonde sold the Castle to the Kilkenny Castle Restoration Committee for £50. Two years later it went into state ownership.

Kilkenny Castle, photograph by unknown 2014 for Failte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [see 1] The National Inventory describes: Random rubble stone walls with sections of limestone ashlar construction (including to breakfront having full-height Corinthian pilasters flanking round-headed recessed niches with sills, moulded surrounds having keystones, decorative frieze having swags, moulded course, modillion cornice, and blocking course with moulded surround to pediment having modillions), and limestone ashlar dressings including battlemented parapets (some having inscribed details) on corbel tables. The classical frontispiece was designed for James Butler, Second Duke of Ormonde possibly to designs prepared by Sir William Robinson. 

You can take an online tour of the castle on the website https://kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/

The magnificent Picture Gallery is situated in the east wing of Kilkenny Castle.This stunning space dates from the 19th century and was built primarily to house the Butler Family’s fine collection of paintings.

Kilkenny Castle. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

5. St. Mary’s Church, Gowran, County Kilkenny:

General information: 056 772 6894, breda.lynch@opw.ie

St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

From the OPW website:

This church was built in the late thirteenth century as a collegiate church and was served by a college – clerics who lived in a community but did not submit to the rule of a monastery. 

The church was patronised by the Butler family and many early family members are commemorated here with elaborate medieval tombs. The impressive ruins were decorated by the Gowran Master whose stone carvings are immortalised in the poetry of Nobel Laureate Séamus Heaney. 

The once medieval church was later partly reconstructed in the early 19th century and functioned as a Church of Ireland church until the 1970s when it was gifted to the State as a National Monument. Today the restored part of the church preserves a collection of monuments dating from the 5th to the 20th centuries.

St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023.

We visited it on the way home from Shankill Castle in County Kilkenny in June 2023. Our tour guide was an enthusiastic font of information and we shared what we knew also and we would have happily spent longer but had to head off as we were visiting a friend in Thomastown.

Entrance to the church. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This large monument greets one as one enters the church, a monument to James Agar (d. 1733), son of Charles from York and Ellis Blancheville. By his first wife Susannah daughter of James Alexander he had three children who died young. By his second wife Mary daughter of Henry Wemyss of Danesfort, Kilkenny, he had several children. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

I was excited to see the tombs of the early Butlers of Ormond. The website tells us that the pair of effigial tombs belong (1467-1539) (d. 1487) to Butler knights. The more elaborate of them is believed to belong to Sir James Butler of Polestown, father of the eighth earl of Ormond, Piers Rua.

One of the effigial tombs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
One of the effigial tombs. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The end of the effigial tomb. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The sides of this tomb are skilfully decorated with carvings of the Apostles, St Brigid, the crucifixion of Jesus Christ and possibly St Thomas à Becket. This tomb is believed to be the work of the renowned O’Tunneys of Callan. James became the Lord Deputy of Ireland in 1464. He married Sabh Kavanagh, daughter of Donal Reagh MacMurrough-Kavanagh, the King of Leinster.

This is probably the 1st Earl of Ormond, James Butler (c. 1305-1337). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Probably the wife of the 1st Earl of Ormond, Eleanor de Bohun (c. 1304-1363). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I’m not sure who this one is. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I think this one is the effigy of Ralph (Radoulfus) in his priestly vestments, the portrieve (priest) of Gowran in 1218. It is believed to be the oldest burial monument in Ireland with a date on it. The inscription is carved in Latin around the edge of the monument in Lombardic lettering. The monument is dated 19 March 1253. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Another sculpted monument. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
An ogham stone with a cross. This is from the third or fourth century, was found on the site during the rebuilding of the chancel in 1826. Fr. Edmund Barry’s reading of the ogham writing here is “DALO MAQA MUCOI MAQUI-ERACIAS MAQI LI”, that is, “Dalach, grandson, of Mac-Eirche, who was son of Lia.” The cross was probably carved around the sixth century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com

[2] https://kilkennycastle.ie/about/explore-the-castle-new/

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Places to stay and visit in County Mayo, Connaught

On the map above:

blue: places to visit that are not section 482

purple: section 482 properties

red: accommodation

yellow: less expensive accommodation for two

orange: “whole house rental” i.e. those properties that are only for large group accommodations or weddings, e.g. 10 or more people.

green: gardens to visit

grey: ruins

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Mayo:

1. Belleek Castle and Ballina House, originally Belleek Castle, Ballina, Mayo – hotel and gives tours 

2. Brookhill House, Brookhill, Claremorris, Co. Mayo – section 482

3. Old Coastguard Station, Rosmoney, Westport, Co. Mayo – section 482

4. Partry House, Mayo – part of Museums of Mayo – sometimes open to the public

5. Turlough Park, County Mayo – National Museum of Ireland Museum of Country Life

6. Westport House, County Mayo

Places to stay, County Mayo:

1. Ashford Castle, Mayo/Galway – hotel

2. Belleek Castle and Ballina House, originally Belleek Castle, Ballina, Mayo –  hotel

3. Breaghwy, Castlebar, Co Mayo – hotel

4. Enniscoe House, Castlehill, Ballina, Co Mayo – section 482 accommodation

5. Knockranny House Hotel, County Mayo 

6.  Mount Falcon, Ballina, County Mayo – hotel

7. Owenmore, Garranard, Ballina, Co. Mayosection 482 accommodation

8. Turin Castle, Turin, Kilmaine, Co. Mayo, Irelandwhole castle rental, up to 12 guests

9. Westbrook Country House, Castlebar, County Mayo

Mayo:

1. Belleek Castle and Ballina House, originally Belleek Castle, Ballina, Mayo – hotel and gives tours

 https://www.belleekcastle.com/

Belleek Manor, or Castle, courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

The website tells us:

Welcome to your authentic Castle Experience in the beautiful West of Ireland in Ballina, County Mayo. An award winning hotel & wedding venue with a gourmet restaurant, cafe and museum on site!

Explore Belleek Castle, an iconic Irish Country Home a restaurant, wedding venue, boutique hotel and spectacular exhibition of the eclectic Marshall Doran Collection of which one of our academically trained guides will be delighted to take you on a tour. 

Belleek Castle has been a member of the prestigious Ireland’s Blue Book since 2016. Ireland’s Blue Book is a romantic collection of Irish Country House Hotels, Manor Houses, Castles and Restaurants. Located throughout the island of Ireland these charming and stylish hideaways are the perfect choice for your holiday vacation in Ireland. They are also ideal for a midweek or weekend break and those seeking a romantic getaway.

2. Brookhill House, Brookhill, Claremorris, Co. Mayo – section 482

Open dates in 2026: Mar 13-26, Apr 17-25, June 12-26, July 8-24, Aug 15-23, 2pm-6pm

Fee: adult €8, OAP/child/student €3, National Heritage Week free

Brookhill House, photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage. [1]

The National Inventory tells us it is a:

Detached three-bay two-storey double-pile over part raised basement country house with attic, built 1845, on a T-shaped plan centred on single-bay full-height gabled frontispiece; three- or five-bay two-storey rear (south) elevation centred on single-bay full-height gabled “bas-relief” breakfront… “Restored”, 1990-1…Tudor-headed central door opening approached by flight of thirteen drag edged tooled cut-limestone steps between wrought iron railings, trefoil leaf-embossed timber doorcase having engaged colonette-detailed moulded rebated reveals with hood moulding on polygonal label stops framing timber panelled door. Pointed-arch flanking window openings with creeper- or ivy-covered sills, timber Y-mullions, and carved timber surrounds framing timber casement windows. Square-headed window openings in tripartite arrangement with drag edged dragged cut-limestone sills, timber cruciform mullions, and rendered flush surrounds having chamfered reveals with hood mouldings framing two-over-two timber sash windows without horns. Hipped square-headed central door opening to rear (south) elevation approached by flight of nine drag edged tooled cut-limestone steps between replacement mild steel railings, tooled cut-limestone surround having chamfered reveals with hood moulding framing glazed timber panelled double doors having sidelights below overlight. Square-headed window openings with rendered flush surrounds having chamfered reveals framing timber casement windows. Interior including (ground floor): central hall on a square plan retaining carved timber lugged surrounds to door openings framing timber panelled doors, and moulded plasterwork cornice to ceiling; and carved timber surrounds to door openings to remainder framing timber panelled doors with carved timber surrounds to window openings framing timber panelled shutters on panelled risers. Set in landscaped grounds.

Appraisal

A country house erected to a design attributed to Frederick Darley Junior (1798-1872) of Dublin representing an important component of the domestic built heritage of the rural environs of Claremorris with the architectural value of the composition, one enveloping a “four square” house annotated as “Brook hill [of] Kirwan Esquire” by Taylor and Skinner (1778 pl. 214), confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate alignment maximising on panoramic vistas overlooking landscaped grounds; the symmetrical frontage centred on a “medieval” doorcase demonstrating good quality workmanship with the corresponding Garden Front centred on a streamlined doorcase; the diminishing in scale of the multipartite openings on each floor producing a graduated tiered visual effect with the principal “apartments” defined by polygonal bay windows; and the robust timber work embellishing the roofline. Having been well maintained, the elementary form and massing survive intact together with substantial quantities of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior where contemporary joinery; Classical-style chimneypieces; and decorative plasterwork enrichments, all highlight the artistic potential of the composition. Furthermore, adjacent outbuildings (extant 1893); a lengthy walled garden (extant 1893); and an abbreviated “Triumphal Column” erected over the burial place of Joseph Lambert JP (1793-1855), all continue to contribute positively to the group and setting values of an estate having historic connections with the Lambert family including Joseph Lambert (1760-1813), one-time High Sheriff of County Mayo (fl. 1796); Alexander Clendenning Lambert JP DL (1803-92), ‘County Treasurer late of Brookhill County Mayo’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1893, 432); Colonel Joseph Alexander Lambert JP DL (1855-1907), ‘late of Brookhill Claremorris County Mayo and of Bouverie Road West Folkestone Kent’ (Calendars of Wills and Administrations 1908, 297); and Brigadier Alexander Fane Lambert DL (1887-1974), later of Auld Licht Manse, Angus, Scotland; and a succession of tenants including Valentine Joseph Blake JP (1842-1912), ‘Land Agent’ (NA 1901); Major General Reginald Henry Mahon (1859-1929; NA 1911); and Katharine Tynan Hinkson (1859-1931; occupant 1916-21), poet and author of the autobiographical “The Years of the Shadow” (1919) and “The Wandering Years” (1922).

The Landed Estates database tells us:

Brookhill was situated on church land held by the Gonnes, who leased the house to the Kirwans in the late 1770s. Occupied by the Lambert family from the 1790s to the 1940s when it was sold to Gerald Maguire, a solicitor in Claremorris. Now the home of the Noone family.” [2]

3. Old Coastguard Station, Rosmoney, Westport, Co. Mayo – section 482

Open dates in 2026: June 29-30, July 1-31, Aug 1-30, Sept 1-8, 11am-4pm

Fee: adult €1, child/OAP/student free

Old Coastguard Station, County Mayo, photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

The National Inventory tells us it is “A coastguard station erected to a design examined (1876) by Enoch Trevor Owen (c.1833-81), Assistant Architect to the Board of Public Works (appointed 1863), representing an important component of the later nineteenth-century maritime architectural heritage of County Mayo. Having been reasonably well maintained, the elementary form and massing survive intact together with quantities of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior: the introduction of replacement fittings to the openings, however, has not had a beneficial impact on the character or integrity of the composition. Nevertheless, an adjacent boathouse (extant 1897) continues to contribute positively to the group and setting values of a neat self-contained ensemble making a pleasing visual statement in a low hillside overlooking the islet-studded Westport Bay.

4. Partry House, Mayo part of Museums of Mayo – sometimes open to the public

http://www.museumsofmayo.com/partry-house/partry-house.html

The website tells us:

Partry House is a charming historic house in a unique and secluded old estate by the shores of Lough Carra.

Built in 1667 on the site of an old Castle, it is set in just 250 acres of unspoilt woodland, bog, pasture and parkland.

Farm

The farm and gardens are run on ecologically friendly and organic principles. Wildlife abounds on this peaceful sanctuary in scenic South County Mayo.

Now restored in keeping with its age and character, Partry House is open in part to the public during July and August.

Partry House dates from 1667 when it was built on the remains of Cloonlagheen Castle by Arthur Lynch as a dowager house for his mother Lady Ellis, widow of Sir Roebuck Lynch [2nd Baronet, 1621-1667] of Castle Carra.

Sir Roebuck’s lands were seized by the Cromwellians and he was compensated by lands at Castle Carra during the first half of the seventeenth century. The Castle was named after Cloonlagheen (‘the meadow of the little lake’) townland on which it stands.

Evidence of the original castle was discovered during restoration work in 1995 when slit windows opening inwards were found at knee level on the first floor. Old castle walls can be seen incorporated into stable walls.

Knox’s ‘History of Mayo‘ (1910) clearly states that Cloonlagheen castle was owned in 1574 by Abbé MacEnvile who was over Ballintubber Abbey. This was part of the Elizabethan survey called the ‘Divisons of Connaught’.

The Lynchs, of the noted Galway family, occupied Partry House from 1667 until 1991; over 330 years in residence. Many of the ancestors of the present Lynch family are buried in a ring-fort graveyard on the estate, where their achievemements are noted on a large stone obelisk. Military, Exploratory and Humanitarian, their dates and names are written in stone.

The one-time islands Moynish, Creggaun and Leamnahaye are linked to the shore by means of the Famine Walk built between the lake and a bog area. This and the fine limestone shore edging date from famine times when the Lynchs looked after their tenants providing food and work for them. Two old cast iron pots used to cook cornmeal stand in the garden.

The obelisk commemorates George Quested Lynch MD who returned at once to Partry from Euphrates on hearing of the famine and died here of Typhus in 1848, aged only 34. The Lynchs, along with Browns of Westport House and the Moores of Moore Hall chartered the ship the ‘Martha Washington’ to bring corn meal from America for their tenants.”

5. Turlough Park, County Mayo – National Museum of Ireland Museum of Country Life

https://www.museum.ie/en-IE/Museums/Country-Life

Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The name of the village and estate derives from the Irish turlach, signifying a lake that dries up in the summer period.Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us about the house:

Turlough Park was built in 1865, to replace a much older building near the entrance to the park. The name of the village and estate derives from the Irish turlach, signifying a lake that dries up in the summer period.

Turlough Park was the home of the Fitzgerald family, to whom the estate was granted under the Cromwellian land settlements of the mid-seventeenth century.

At its largest, the Turlough estate consisted of almost 8,500 acres requiring many indoor servants and outdoor estate workers to maintain the house and lands. In 1915, the Congested Districts Board – established to initiate economic improvements along the western seaboard – purchased and re-distributed the Fitzgerald estate.

Turlough Park ca. 1880, photograph from National Library of Ireland, on flickr constant commons.
Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

A notable family member was George Robert [c. 1712-1782], son of George and later known as the ‘Fighting Fitzgerald’. Famous for his brave and reckless horsemanship, and a renowned duellist, George Robert was involved in a number of disputes and family quarrels. He was found guilty of murder and hanged in Castlebar, Co. Mayo in 1786.

Mary née Hervey was George “Fighting Fitzgerald”s mother.
Johann Zoffany Portrait of George Fitzgerald (1748-1786) with his Sons George and Charles (roughly 1764) courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland and Crawford Gallery.

His younger brother Charles Lionel would inherit the Turlough Park estate.

The architect Thomas Newenham Deane designed Turlough Park House. Deane was also the designer of the National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology in Dublin.

The architectural style of the house has been referred to as ‘Victorian Gothic’. The two-storey house built of limestone rises to a high-pitched roof with dormer windows. It incorporates an open central Gothic porch bearing the house’s 1865 date stone.

A service area adjoining the house, which once accommodated the kitchen and stable block, now incorporates visitor facilities such as the gift shop and café. In such houses, the kitchen was detached from the main house to avoid cooking smells disturbing the family and their guests and to minimise the risk of fire.

Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

An imposing stained glass window above the porch incorporates the Fitzgerald family crest and bears the motto Honor Probataque Virtus (Honour, Probity & Virtue).”

Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

While the library was used mostly for recreation and study, the room was also where tenant farmers paid their quarterly rents to their landlord, the Fitzgerald family. The agent, seated facing the glass doors where the tenants entered, would note the payment in his rent book and issue the tenant with a receipt. It is said that the landlord sometimes sat behind the concealed door to hear what the tenants had to say without being observed.

Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Drawing Room of the Big House

This room is furnished and decorated the way it may have looked around 1900. Most families occupying a house for a long time accumulate a variety of furniture from different eras and in different styles. The furniture here is from the Decorative Arts & History collections of the Museum.

The Drawing Room,Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Among the items is a Lyrachord Piano, which is the only one of its kind in the world. The left side operates like a piano and the right like a harpsichord.

Lyrachord Piano, Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is also a nest of tables with harp and shamrock inlay typical of the Killarney school of furniture, as well as an embroidered armchair from Adare Manor, Co. Limerick dating from 1850.

Becoming part of the National Museum of Ireland, Turlough Park House remained in the same family until 1991 when it was purchased by Mayo County Council. The proposal to open the house as a museum was a local initiative which led eventually to a decision made in 1995 to locate part of the National Museum of Ireland here. The Museum’s Folklife collections had been stored for a long time in Daingean, Co. Offaly, awaiting a suitable venue.

Museum of Country Life, Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

As the house was not suitable as a major exhibition space, a new building was purpose-built alongside it. Housing the Museum galleries, this award winning design was created by the architectural branch of the Office of Public Works. As part of the project, the Office of Public Works also restored the original ‘Big House’. The grounds and gardens were restored by Mayo County Council.

Turlough Park, County Mayo, February 2015. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

6. Westport House, County Mayo

Westport House, Westport, ©Christian McLeod 2016, for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [5]

https://www.westporthouse.ie/

The website tells us: “One of the few privately-owned historic houses left in Ireland, Westport House was built by the Browne family whose connections to Mayo date back to the 1500s. Their lineage relates them and the house to the trail-blazing pirate queen and chieftain, Grace O’Malley.

Westport House, Westport, ©Christian McLeod 2016, for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. [5]

“In 2017, Westport House was bought by another local and historic family, the Hughes family, who hope to ensure its survival into the future.

Built in the 18th century, Westport House was designed by the famous architects, Richard Cassels, James Wyatt and Thomas Ivory. Westport House is located west of the Shannon and is considered to be one of Ireland’s most beautiful historic homes open to visitors – and is today often described as being one of Ireland’s National Treasures. It is situated in a superb parkland setting with lake, terraces, gardens and magnificent views overlooking Clew Bay, the Atlantic Ocean, Clare Island and Ireland’s Holy Mountain, Croagh Patrick right in the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way. It was built … by the Browne family, who are direct descendants of the famous 16th century Pirate Queen – Grace O’Malley.

After Grace O’Malley’s death, a report stated that for forty years she was the stay of all rebellions in the West. She was chief of the O’Malley Clan and ruled the seas around Mayo. Grace O’Malley had several castles in the West of Ireland and it was on the foundations of one of these that Westport House was actually built. There is still an area of her original castle in the basement of the House (now known as The Dungeons), which is on view to visitors.

The original house which would have been smaller, was built by Colonel John Browne [1631-1712], a Jacobite, who was at the Siege of Limerick and his wife, Maude Burke [or Bourke, (1640-1690)] in 1679-83. Maude Burke was Grace O’Malley’s great-great granddaughter. The house did not have the lake or a dam and the tide rose and fell against the walls.

The east front of the House, as it is today, was built in 1730 by Colonel John Browne’s grandson, also John- 1st Earl of Altamont [1709-1776]. He hired the famous German architect, Richard Cassels. It is built with the finest limestone taken from the quarry south of the estate farmyard and was executed by local craftsmen. Richard Cassels also designed Carton, Haselwood, Russborough and Leinster Houses.

John Browne (1709-1776), Baron Mount Eagle, 1st Earl of Altamont, of Westport, County Mayo, after Joshua Reynold, Adams auction 18 Oct 2022.

From the plans made in 1773, the ground floor contained:

  • The Waiting Room – now The Library
  • Front Staircase – now the Ante- library
  • Living Room – now The Front Hall
  • Back staircase – now part of the present Drawing Room
  • Dressing Room – now the East end of The Long Gallery.

“It was only one room deep, built round an open courtyard.

In 1778, Peter, the 2nd Earl Of Altamont built the south wing to the Thomas Ivory plans his father had commissioned but had not carried out. Ivory’s south façade has a delicacy quite unlike Cassel’s bolder work on the East.  In the 1780’s Peter’s son John Denis, 3rd Earl of Altamont (who later became the 1st Marquess of Sligo), completed the square of the House. He engaged James Wyatt to decorate his new Long Gallery and Large Dining Room (one of the great English architects who is responsible for other significant buildings in the town of Westport and further afield).

John Denis Browne (1756-1809) 1st Marquess of Sligo Date 1806 Engraver William Whiston Barney, British, fl. c. 1805 After John Opie, English, 1761-1807, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.

In 1816, Howe Peter (2nd Marquess of Sligo) began his alterations to the House. He built on the north wing for men servants and between 1819-1825, he built on the south wing. The south wing was built as a two-tiered library designed by Benjamin Wyatt. This was warmed by hot air and due to defects in the system, it was destroyed by fire almost immediately in 1826.

In the 1830s, the central open courtyard where the Marble Staircase now sits, was covered in and Howe Peter made a new library by running a gallery round the now enclosed wall. In 1858 his son George abolished his father’s Library, moving it to where it is today and replaced it with the Marble Staircase.

On the west side of the house, the highly effective balustraded terraces’above the lake and the landing places were put in by George Ulick (6th Marquess of Sligo). These were designed by the English architect, Romaine Walker, whose main Irish work was the remodelling of Waterford Castle.

Aerial view of Westport House, Co Mayo, ©Tsung Ho Lam 2020, for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool [5]

The website continues, telling us about the Browne Family:

The story of the Browne Family is a microcosm for the wider and, at times, turbulent history of Ireland. Each generation has had to contend with and adapt to the prevailing social, political and religious changes encountered along the way. Despite revolution, invasion, plantation, famine and confiscation, the bond uniting Westport House and its family remained right up until 2017.

The Browne Family originally arrived into Mayo from Sussex in the 16th century. Through marriage with daughters of native Irish landowners and by purchase, they built up a small estate near The Neale. As a Catholic family, they were fortunate that their lands were situated in Connaught thereby escaping the notorious confiscations of Cromwell. It was with John Browne III (1638-1711) with whom the connection with Westport House commenced. A successful lawyer, he married Maud Burke, daughter of Viscount Mayo and great-great granddaughter of the Pirate Queen Grace O’Malley (Granuaile 1530-1603).

John Browne greatly increased his estate in Mayo and Galway including Cathair-na-mart (Stone-fort of the Beeves), a ruinous O’Malley fortress on the shores of Clew Bay. John’s good fortune was swept away as Ireland was plunged into chaos in the Williamite Wars. A Catholic, John supported the Jacobite cause and was appointed a Colonel in the Jacobite army. From the iron mines on his lands near Westport, he supplied the army with cannon balls and weapons. The defeat of the Jacobite army at Aughrim and Limerick in 1691 brought financial ruin in the confiscations that followed. At his death in 1711, his estate was reduced to Cathair-na-Mart and a few hundred acres.

The Penal Laws which followed left his grandson, John IV, with little option but to conform to the prevailing religion in hope of surviving the confiscations and political upheaval. John IV gradually revived the family fortune. Young and ambitious he set about extending his estate and transforming the old O’Malley castle into modern day Westport House. In 1767, he – along with architect, William Leeson – replaced the old village of Cathair-na-Mart with a new town of Westport where he established a thriving linen industry. An excellent farmer he set about improving the fertility of his lands, which for the most part were of poor quality. He became the 1st Earl of Altamont. In 1752, his son and heir, Peter, 2nd Earl Of Altamont, married the heiress Elizabeth Kelly from Co. Galway whose estates in Jamaica further enhanced the family fortune. It is said that – as part of the dowry – her father insisted that he take the Kelly name and he became known as Peter Browne Kelly.

John, 3rd Earl of Altamont, continued the innovative farming tradition of his grandfather. He created the lake to the West of Westport House and planted trees. He laid out the principal streets of the present town of Westport and many of the streets in Westport today are named after Browne Family members such as Peter Street, James Street, Altamont Street and John’s Row. He also established a theatre at the Octagon and built the town of Louisburgh. In 1787, he married Louisa Catherine, daughter and heiress of the famous English Admiral Earl Howe. During his lifetime, the French inspired 1798 Rebellion occurred. Aided by the arbitrary actions of Denis Browne, his younger brother, against the Irish insurgents (which earned him the reputation of “ black sheep” of the family), the Rebellion was crushed.

In 1800, there was an Act of Union with England. The 3rd Earl voted for it and became the 1st Marquess of Sligo and an Irish representative peer. The reason the title is Sligo when the family home is in Mayo, is that in 1800 there was already an Earl of Mayo, a Viscount Galway to the south and a Lord Roscommon to the East. West was the Atlantic Ocean, so it had to be North – the land of Yeats and black cattle – Sligo.

His only son Howe Peter, 2nd Marquess of Sligo, inherited in 1809 at the age of twenty-one. Extravagant and generous, his early life subscribed to the popular image of a “regency buck”. Friend of Byron, de Quincy and the Prince Regent, he traveled extensively throughout Europe on the “grand tour”. He excavated at Mycenae and discovered the 3,000 year old columns of the Treasury of Atreus. To bring them back to Westport, he took some seamen from a British warship and was subsequently sentenced to 4 months in Newgate prison. He married Hester, the Earl of Conricard’s daughter, with whom he had 14 children and settled down to life in Westport. He bred many famous race horses both at Westport and the Curragh. One of his horses, Waxy, won the Derby. He owned the last two of the original breed of Irish Wolfhound. In 1834, he was appointed Governor of Jamaica with the difficult task of overseeing the “apprenticeship system” a period prior to the full emancipation of the slaves. He met with great opposition from plantation owners and other vested interests. He was first to emancipate the slaves on the family’s Jamaican plantations. The first “free village” in the world, Sligoville, was subsequently named in his honour. A liberal, he was one of the few Irish Peers to vote for Catholic Emancipation. He died in 1845 as the clouds of the Great Famine descended over Mayo.

His son, George, the 3rd Marquess, inherited a terrible legacy. The West of Ireland was worst affected by the famine. Westport House was closed and with no rents forthcoming, George borrowed where he could, spending £50,000 of his own money to alleviate the suffering of the tenants. With the guidance of his mother, Hesther Catherine, he imported cargoes of meal to Westport Quay and sub-vented the local workhouse, then the only shelter available to the destitute. He wrote tirelessly to the British Government demanding that they do more to help the famine victims. He wrote and had published a pamphlet outlining many pioneering reforms of the economic and social conditions that had led to the famine. In 1854, on being offered the Order of St. Patrick, an honour once held by his father and grandfather, disillusioned by England’s Irish policy (a reoccurring sentiment at Westport House!), the 3rd Marquess wrote “ I have no desire for the honour.” An exhibition about the Great Famine is on display in Westport House as told through Hesther Catherine’s letters to the estate’s agent in Westport, Hildebrand.

John succeeded his brother as 4th Marquess. He had to contend with the huge changes that occurred in the ownership of land in Ireland in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. Above all he was a “professional” farmer whose main contribution was to transform a reduced and almost bankrupt estate into a profitable one solely from agriculture. This work was continued by the 6th Marquess who added a sawmill, a salmon hatchery and planted extensively. The compulsory acquisition of the main entrance to the House for local public housing occurred in the ownership of the 8th Marquess which altered the historic relationship that had existed between the House and the town of Westport.

In 1960, in the midst of a great depression and facing rising death duties, the 10th Marquess, Denis Edward, his wife Jose and son Jeremy (11th Marquess) decided to open Westport House and the grounds to the visiting public. It was a pioneering venture in a place and at a time that was remote and depressed. Over the succeeding decades, the 11th Marquess and his family developed the Estate into a Tourist Attraction.

The Grounds & Gardens

The Brownes of Westport House knew the value of trees in a landscape too, as the stunning woodland in the estate’s grounds attest. Westport Demesne retains 100 acres of historic woods dating back to the 1700s.

Back in the day, these trees provided a number of resources for the Westport House Estate. They created a shelter belt from the harsh Atlantic weather systems, they provided a fuel and timber source for heating and building materials, and they created a lush green back drop for the ‘naturalised parkland’ design landscape.

The lords and ladies loved to interact with the landscape by promenading along a deep networks of track and trails. They would bring their visitors along these paths too, impressing them with the grandeur and beauty of the estate’s stately woodlands. Aptly enough, these design pathways and the areas of woodlands they ventured through were known as ‘the pleasure grounds’.

An elaborate network of serpentine pathways meandered along, softly curving – following the style of landscape design that was popular during the 1800s and remains timeless to this day. The trails led the walker deep into the woodlands and surrounding landscape, where they could discover hidden design elements, such as sculptural pieces of architecture, exotic plant and tree species and new views.

The pyramidal cone of Croagh Patrick was one of the most emphasised views in the Westport House Demesne, and a number of the historic pathways were specifically designed to yield the most captivating vistas. The woodlands even had purposely made gaps to seduce the stroller with sudden framed glimpses of the famous Reek.

Opened to the Public in 1960

By the early 1960s, most historic homes of its nature were either burnt, knocked down or abandoned. Not so for Westport House. Jeremy – 11th Marquess of Sligo (1939 – 2014), took the estate in a whole new direction with inspiration from the “Big Houses” in the UK who had opened their doors to the interested public who were keen to see how the “other half” lived. In 1960, when Jeremy and Jennifer opened the attraction, the admission price was 2/6 for adults and 1/- for children. Admission to the grounds was 6d for both adults and children. In 1960, 2,400 visitors visited Westport House.

Jeremy had a remarkable passion for product development and marketing. He was inspired by other houses that were becoming sustainable and viable by diversifying their offering from not only heritage but including other leisure attractions. He felt strongly that Westport House needed to appeal to a wider audience than those solely interested in antiques and architecture. Over time, he introduced a number of fun attractions. In the 1970s, the Slippery Dip (Cannon Ball run) and the Miniature Railway (Westport House Express) were added discretely on the grounds. A Camping and Caravan Park was developed – as well as Horse Drawn Caravan tours of Connemara – and Gracy’s Restaurant (situated at the Farmyard was created from what was originally a cowshed) and a shop evolved from a similar situation. There were even one armed bandits in the basement at one point in time and the giant pink rabbit called Pinkie was introduced as the estate’s mascot.  The Tennis Courts, Pitch and Putt, a Flume Ride (The Pirates Plunge), Jungle World (The Pirates Den), and of course The Giant Swans on the lake were also phased in. In 2008, the Ships Galleon (The Pirate Queen) was introduced.

It was during this time that Jeremy and Jennifer realised that in order to be able to leave the estate to their daughters, drastic action would need to be taken. Jeremy had signed a family trust aged 21 to leave the estate and title to his son. They went on to have five wonderful daughters (with no sign of a male heir). With the help of Mary Robinson QC (and later, first female president of Ireland) and Michael Egan, solicitor from Castlebar, Jeremy succeeded in bringing the Altamont Act through the senate in 1992 allowing him to leave the estate to his daughters and break the trust. He did not enact the same for the title of Marquess of Sligo and today, the 12th Marquess of Sligo, Sebastian Browne, resides in Sydney, Australia.

In 2003, Jeremy commissioned Michael Cooper, his brother-in-law, to create a sculpture of Grace O’Malley – the original of alabaster stone is situated in the House and a bronze casting is in the garden. This was the beginning of reinstating her back where she belongs – in her home, with her family, and where the re-branding of the estate in 2009 as Westport House and Pirates Adventure Park emanated from.

It was around this time that Sheelyn and Karen Browne – the two eldest of Jeremy’s five daughters – took the reins and added an Adventure Activity Centre, a seasonal Events Programme as well as holding the first large music festivals on the estate while Clare and Alannah ran Gracy’s Bar. Fifth sister, Lucinda, was always happy to lend a hand when home from the U.K. In 2017, the Browne family sold the house and estate to the local Hughes family who own neighbouring Hotel Westport and workwear provider, Portwest. A new chapter in the history of Westport House & Estate has begun. The Hughes family immediately started working on the grounds and gardens of the estate. The adventure park has been upgraded with a variety of new attractions and rides and there are plans to further invest in adventure. In 2021, urgent and necessary restorative works to Westport House will begin. And our new CEO’s main focus – along with the Hughes family – has been to produce a master plan for the entire estate that will ensure the sustainability and viability of the house and estate into the future.

Places to stay, County Mayo:

1. Ashford Castle, Mayo/Galway – hotel

Ashford Castle, photograph Courtesy Aervisions 2016 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).

https://ashfordcastle.com/

The website tells us: “Unrivalled service, warm Irish hospitality and five-star luxury await at Ashford Castle, part of The Red Carnation Hotel Collection. Situated in a spectacular 350-acre estate, discover sumptuous rooms and suites, splendid interiors brimming with antique furniture, fine fabrics and unique features at every turn.

It was built originally by the Norman De Burgo family around 1228.

Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Ashford Castle, photograph by Brian Morrison 2015 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
Ashford Castle, photograph by Brian Morrison 2015 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).

Mark Bence-Jones writes in  A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988):

p. 12. “(Browne, Oranmore and Browne, B/PB; Guinness, Bt/PB) A vast and imposing Victorian-Baronial castle of rather harsh rough-hewn grey stone in a superb postion and the head of Lough Corrib…built onto an earlier house consisting of a 2 storey 5 bay Georgian shooting-box enlarged and remodelled in French chateau style. The shooting-box and estate originally belonged to the Oranmore and Browne family; they were sold by the Encumbered Estates Court in 1855 and bought by Benjamin Lee Guinness, afterwards 1st Bt., head of Guinness’s brewery, who transformed the shooting-box into the French chateau. From the 1870s onwards, his son, Arthur, 1st and Last Lord Ardilaun, added the castle, which was designed by James Franklin Fuller and George Ashlin. He also built the tremendous castellated 6 arch bridge across the river, with outworks and an embattled gateway surmounted by a gigantic A and a Baron’s coronet, which is the main approach; from the far side of this bridge the castle looks most impressive. Its interior, however, is a disappointment, like the interiors of so many late-Victorian houses. The rooms are not particularly large, and some of them are rather low; everything is light oak, with timbered ceilings and panelling. The main hall was formed out of 2 or more rooms in the earlier house, and has a somewhat makeshift air; it is surrounded by an oak gallery with thin uprights and a staircase rises straight from one side of it. Another room has an immense carved oak mantel with caryatids and the Guinness motto. Magnificent gardens and grounds; large fountain, vista up the hillside with steps; castellated terrace by the lake. Sold ca 1930, now a hotel.” (see [3])

Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, photograph by Robert French, Lawrence Photographic Collection, National Library of Ireland.
Ashford Castle, photograph by Brian Morrison 2015 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
George V Dining Room, Ashford Castle, Co Mayo, Courtesy Jack Hardy 2016 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
Billiards Room, Ashford Castle, Courtesy Jack Hardy 2016 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
Afternoon tea, Ashford Castle, Co Mayo Courtesy Kelvin Gillmor 2014. (see [5])
Ashford Castle, photograph by Brian Morrison 2015 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
Ashford Castle, photograph by unknown, for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).
Ashford Castle, photograph by Brian Morrison 2015 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool (see [5]).

2. Belleek Castle and Ballina House, originally Belleek Castle, Ballina, Mayo –

 https://www.belleekcastle.com/

Belleek Manor, or Castle, courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

The website tells us:

Welcome to your authentic Castle Experience in the beautiful West of Ireland in Ballina, County Mayo. An award winning hotel & wedding venue with a gourmet restaurant, cafe and museum on site!

Explore Belleek Castle, an iconic Irish Country Home a restaurant, wedding venue, boutique hotel and spectacular exhibition of the eclectic Marshall Doran Collection of which one of our academically trained guides will be delighted to take you on a tour. 

Belleek Castle has been a member of the prestigious Ireland’s Blue Book since 2016. Ireland’s Blue Book is a romantic collection of Irish Country House Hotels, Manor Houses, Castles and Restaurants. Located throughout the island of Ireland these charming and stylish hideaways are the perfect choice for your holiday vacation in Ireland. They are also ideal for a midweek or weekend break and those seeking a romantic getaway.

The neo-gothic Country House, dating from 1831, has not lost its flavour by over modernisation…This historic Belleek Castle is informal, hassle-free and friendly, rich in decor and antiquities, with many open log fires to warm your steps back through half a millennium.”

Belleek Manor, or Castle, courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.
Belleek Manor, or Castle, courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

It continues in the history section:

Belleek Castle was built between 1825 and finished in 1831 for the cost of £10,000. The building was commissioned by Sir Arthur Francis Knox-Gore for the cost of £10,000 and . The manor house was designed by the prolific architect John Benjamin Keane, and the Neo-Gothic architecture met the taste of the time, when Medieval styles became fashionable again.”

John B. Keane began his career as assistant to Richard Morrison in the early 1820s and set up his own practice by 1823, David Hicks tells us in his Irish Country Houses, A Chronicle of Change. The stone for the house was quarried from nearby quarry in Moyne. Francis Arthur Francis Knox-Gore had inherited the estate in 1818 when he was 15, and the manor was built after his marriage to Sarah Nesbit Knox from Castle Lacken, County Mayo. It is thought to have replaced an earlier structure, as the basement area of the castle today appears to be older than the floors above.

The website continues: “The house is thought to have replaced an earlier structure & is named after the original Belleek Castle, a 13th Tower House Castle situated on the banks of the River Moy. Francis lived at Belleek Castle with his wife Sarah and his 9 children until his death in 1873. According to his wishes he was buried in Belleek Demense. A striking Neo-Gothic Monument, designed by James Franklin Fuller, now marks his grave and is situated in the middle of Belleek Woods. It is said that his wife & favourite horse are both buried beside him. His eldest son Charles Knox-Gore inherited & became the 2nd Baronet. Charles died without issue in 1890 & was also buried in Belleek Demense beside the River Moy, and his dog Phizzie was buried beside him. The house was inherited by his sister Matilda who married Major General William Boyd Saunders of Torquay. Their grandson William Arthur Cecil Saunders-Knox-Gore sold the house in 1942. 

The house was later purchased by the Beckett family who intended on converting the Manor House into a stud farm but later sold the house. Mayo County Council purchased the house in the 1950s and used the Manor House as a hospital & military barracks and was later abandoned it. It was at this time that Mayo County Council considered taking the roof of the building to avoid paying rates. Fortunately Marshall Doran, a merchant navy officer and an avid collector of fossils and medieval armour, acquired the run down property in 1961, restored it and opened it as a hotel in 1970. Some of the rooms are in 19th style, whilst most of the interior design has a medieval and nautical touch. Marshall, being quite a craftsman, did a lot of the work himself, assisted by John Mullen, and supervised the restoration expertly. Today, the Castle is managed by Marshall’s son Paul Doran and Ms. Maya Nikolaeva.

Belleek Manor, or Castle, courtesy of National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

And about the tour of the castle:

The Belleek Castle Tour includes an explanation of the origins of the Castle and the history of its former owners, the Knox-Gore family, the Earls of Arran. Learn about the life of Marshall Doran an adventurer, sailor & smuggler who restored Belleek Castle in the 1960’s. Visitors will see private dining rooms, decorated in opulent romantic style, as well as rooms designed by Marshal such as the Medieval Banquet Hall, the Spanish Armada Bar and the Tween Deck. The highlight of the tour is The Marshall Doran Collection, which is one of the finest collections of Jurassic fossils, Medieval Weapons and Medieval armour in Ireland. Visitors will also see the Grace O’Malley “The Pirate Queen’s” bed, the last wolf shot in Connaught and other curiosities.”

Magherameena Castle, Belleek, County Fermanagh, also designed by John Benjamin Keane, no longer standing. National Library of Ireland NLI Ref L_CAB_04725 National Library of Ireland

3. Breaffy House Resort, Castlebar, Co Mayo (formerly Breaghwy)

https://www.breaffyhouseresort.com/

The website tells us: “Breaffy House Resort is located in the heart of County Mayo and is the perfect destination if you are looking for a well-deserved and relaxing break! Set on 101 acres, the resort consists of 4* Breaffy House Hotel and Self-Catering Apartments, only a 2 minute stroll between House Hotel & Apartments.”

Mark Bence-Jones writes (1988):

p. 47. “(Browne/IFR) A large Victorian Baronial mansion of rough-hewn grey stone with red sandstone around the windows; unusually long for its height. Entrance front with single-storey battlemented porch. Garden front with stepped gables, polygonal corner turret with battlements and pointed roof, and another battlemented turret set at an obtuse angle to the façade. Sold ca 1960. Now an hotel.” (see [5])

Archiseek describes it: “Dominick Andrew Browne built the present Breaffy House in 1890. The house is a Scottish baronial mansion and is victorian in style and was designed by English architect William M. Fawcett from Cambridge. The house has boldly recessed facades, a polygonal corner turret with battlements and pointed roof, a second turret set at an obtuse angle to the facade and stepped gables. The entrance front has a single story battlement porch. The building has tall slender chimneys and there are dormer windows on the roof.” (see [3])

4. Enniscoe House, Castlehill, Ballina, Co Mayo – section 482 accommodation

http://www.enniscoe.com

Tourist Accommodation Facility – Open for accommodation in 2026: April 1-Oct 31 2026

See my entry: https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/11/25/enniscoe-house-gardens-castlehill-ballina-co-mayo/

The second drawing room of Enniscoe, with George “Two” over the fireplace. Enniscoe, County Mayo, August 17th 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Enniscoe, County Mayo, 17th August 2021. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

5. Knockranny House Hotel and Spa, County Mayo

https://www.knockrannyhousehotel.ie/

The website tells us: “Owned and run by Adrian & Geraldine Noonan, Knockranny House Hotel & Spa is one of Ireland’s finest 4 star hotels in Westport. 

Set in secluded grounds on a hillside, this luxury hotel stands proudly overlooking the picturesque town of Westport and enjoys breathtaking views of Croagh Patrick and Clew Bay’s islands to the west and the Nephin Mountains to the north, one of the best Westport hotels locations.  

The welcoming atmosphere at Knockranny House Hotel Westport begins with the open log fires in the reception hall, and is carried throughout the property with its antique furniture, excellent spa facilities, superb cuisine and friendly service, creating a genuine sense of relaxed warmth and hospitality. Previously voted as AA Irish hotel of the year. 

6.  Mount Falcon, Ballina, County Mayo – hotel

https://www.mountfalcon.com/

Mount Falcon Estate, Co Mayo_by Mount Falcon 2020 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [5])

The website tells us:

Mount Falcon Estate is a luxury 32 bedroom 4-star deluxe hotel with 45 luxury lodges located on the west bank of the River Moy and is situated perfectly for exploring the 2500km of rugged Irish coastline called The Wild Atlantic Way. Mount Falcon hotel offers 100 acres of magical woodlands, between Foxford and Ballina, in North County Mayo, the most beautiful part of the West of Ireland.  Situated in the heart of the Moy Valley (which encompasses Mayo North and Co. Sligo) this Victorian Gothic manor house (est. 1876) exudes understated elegance from a bygone era. Originally constructed as a wedding gift, Mount Falcon Estate has subsequently become known as the most romantic house in Ireland. 

Mount Falcon’s owners, the Maloney Family fell in love with the Estate and transformed it into one of the top Hotels in Ballina and Mayo. The owners have invested heavily in an ongoing restoration programme, and have ensured that the integrity and charm of the Estate have been completely retained. AA Hotel of the Year 2009/2010 & IGTOA Boutique Hotel of the Year 2011. Best Manor House Hotel in Ireland 2015, Hotel of the year 2017 Manor House Hotel, Traditional Luxury Hotel 2018 Luxury Travel Diary, Irelands Favourite Place to Stay Connaught 2018 Gold Medal Awards People Choice Winner, Top 100 Best Wedding Venues 2018 One Fab Day.

Mark Bence-Jones writes (1988): p. 213. “(Knox/IFR) A Victorian Gothic house of rough-hewn stone, built 1876 for U.A. Knox [Utred Augustus Knox JP DL (1825-1913)], probably to the design of James Franklin Fuller. Of two storeys with a three storey bock to which a tower was added. Plate glass windows. There is a similarity between Mount Falcon and Errew Grange. Mount Falcon is now a hotel.

The National Inventory adds:

A country house erected for Utred Augustus Knox JP DL (1825-1913) to a design signed by James Franklin Fuller (1835-1924) of Great Brunswick Street [Pearse Street], Dublin, representing an important component of the later nineteenth-century domestic built heritage of County Mayo with the architectural value of the composition, one evoking strong comparisons with the Fuller-designed Errew House (1872-7), Errew, confirmed by such attributes as the deliberate alignment maximising on scenic vistas overlooking gently rolling grounds; the compact, albeit multi-faceted plan form; the robust rock faced surface finish offset by sheer limestone dressings not only demonstrating good quality workmanship, but also compounding a ponderous two-tone palette; the slight diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a feint graduated visual effect with the principal “apartments” defined by polygonal bay windows; and the spire-topped tower embellishing a multi-gabled roofline. Having been well maintained, the elementary form and massing survive intact together with substantial quantities of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior where encaustic tile work; contemporary joinery; restrained chimneypieces carrying the monogram of the proprietor (“UAK”); and decorative plasterwork enrichments, all highlight the considerable artistic potential of a country house having subsequent connections with the Aldridge family including Major John Beauclerk Aldridge RA (1900-76), previously of Glenmore: meanwhile, a discreet benchmark remains of additional interest for the connections with cartography and the preparation of maps by the Ordnance Survey (established 1824).” [7]

7. Owenmore, Garranard, Ballina, Co. Mayosection 482 accommodation

https://owenbeag.ie/ 

Tourist Accommodation FacilityOpen in 2026: all year except Jan, Feb, Mar 1-9, July 1-23, Dec 22-31

Since it is listed in Revenue Section 482 under Tourist Accommodation Facility, it does not have to open to the public.

Originally called Millbrook, Mark Bence-Jones tells us (1988):

p. 229. “(Orme/LGI1912; McCausland/IFR) An early C19 house of two storeys over high basement. Entrance front of 5 bays; single-storey Doric portico with a die up broad flight of steps. Entablatures on console brackets over windows of lower storey. Side elevation of one bay with a curved bow; at the other side is a two storey bowed wing of the same height and style as the main block, set back from it and joined to it by a canted bay. Eaved roof on cornice. Two drawing rooms en suite with decoration of ca 1830; ceilings with plasterwork in compartments; pediment over double-doors. Dining room ceiling  with delicate plasterwork in centre surrounded by rectangular frame with similar decoration.” [3]

Timothy William Ferres tells us it was built ca 1847, and when the estate was decimated by the Land Acts, about 1926, it was sold to the Knox family. It was sold again in 1950 to Major Marcus McCausland.” [4]

It seems to have been built for William Orme (1810-76), JP. The National Inventory adds:

the compact plan form centred on a pillared portico demonstrating good quality workmanship in a blue-grey limestone; and the very slight diminishing in scale of the openings on each floor producing a graduated visual impression with those openings showing sleek “stucco” dressings. Having been well maintained, the form and massing survive intact together with substantial quantities of the original fabric, both to the exterior and to the interior, including crown or cylinder glazing panels in hornless sash frames: meanwhile, contemporary joinery; and ‘splendid ceilings [revealing] the superb skill of the Italian masters introduced for this work’ (Irish Tourist Association Report 1942), all highlight the artistic potential of the composition.”

8. Turin Castle, Turin, Kilmaine, Co. Mayo, Irelandwhole castle rental, up to 12 guest

http://turincastle.com

The website tells us:

Turin Castle in County Mayo is a luxury self catering venue near Ballinrobe in County Mayo Ireland. It is a unique medieval castle set against the backdrop of picturesque countryside. This exclusive and intimate venue is the perfect location for a  romantic, castle wedding or family gathering.  Unfortuntately It is not suitable for stag or hen parties. It is the only privately owned castle in Ireland with en-suite facilities. The castle sleeps a maximum of 12 people and is hired on a self catering basis but catering can be arranged if required. Please ask for details.

If you are looking for a truly exceptional medieval experience, Turin Castle in County Mayo will not disappoint. The castle is ideal for a family holiday with a difference or a special intimate wedding affording total privacy. 

Turin Castle is situated in the ancient barony of Kilmaine, the castle is surrounded by 16 acres of rich walled pasture land and is an ideal choice for couples searching for an idyllic but small wedding venue. The nearest town is Ballinrobe which is 8 km away offering a good selection of pubs and eateries. The picturesque village of Cong famous for the John Ford film ” The Quiet Man” and Ashford castle are also close by. The castle is conveniently located close to excellent golf courses.

The website includes a good description of its history:

1238 was a most auspicious year  in the long and turbulent  history of County Mayo. For we are told in the annals of the four Masters that the foreigners erected Castles In Conmacnaine Cuile(Kilmaine) and Muinter Murchadha.(Robeen).

The Foreigners were Anglo-Normans led by Richard de Burgo, son of William de Burgo. One of the most powerful Lords in England. In 1228 Richard had received the Overlordship  of the whole of Connacht from the English King, Henry II, making him the “ red Earl “ the most powerful man in Ireland.

The de Burgo dynasty survived and flourished up until Elizabethan times when the two hereditary titles of upper and lower Mac William (From William de Burgo, known as the conqueror) were finally abolished. During this time the de Burgos had become completely integrated into Gaelic society adopting Gaelic customs, laws and language becoming “ Hiberniores  Hibernis  ipis”.  More Irish than the Irish themselves .However this was the beginning of the end of the old Gaelic order in Ireland and opened the way for the final conquest and plantation of Ireland.

The origins and history of Turin Castle Ireland and neighbouring castles are sadly mostly lost in the mists of time. According to the chronicler O’Donovan “ In the parish of Kilmaine there are several square Castles said to have been built by the Burkes ( de Burgos) There is one in Kilmaine, one in Cregduff, one in Elistron and one in Killernan”. Turin would appear to derive from the old Irish meaning ‘small bleaching field’. Which may suggest that Turin Castle Ireland was involved in the very lucrative trade of sheep farming.  There was a growing market for hides, meat and wool in continental Europe and by the mid 16th Century Kilmaine, politically and economically was the most important barony in the county. In 1574 there were 41 castles in an area of just 10 miles long by eight broad, by far the highest concentration of castles in Connacht, an indication that agriculture was on an industrial scale. The producers were the owners or tenants of  the  estates  who  would have enjoyed the protection of the upper and lower  Mac William and in turn the Mac Williams would profit from the duty imposed which would probably directly affect the commodity market price in Galway. Keeping the lines of communication open was essential hence the need for a line of Castles protecting the trade route from Lough Corrib to Galway. Apart from this liberal studding of castles in Kilmaine another possible indication of the profitability and importance of this trade was the presence of a large mercenary army loyal to the Mac Williams.

In the division of Connacht 1570-1574 one Walter Mac Remon is listed as being resident of Turin Castle Ireland.The Mac Remons was a cadet branch of the clann Seonin who were one of the chief de Burgo clans of Ireland.

Following the death of the Mac William Sir Richard Bourke, in September of 1586. The de Burgo clans and the Mac Donnells along with the O’Malleys  and the Joys(Joyces) rose up against the English oppressors in an attempt to reinstate the Mac Williamship and other lordships which the English had abolished. One of the signatories to a document presented to the council of Connaught was Walter Mac Jonyn ( Seonin) of Towrin (Turin). This document attested that the principle reason for the rebellion was the abolition of the Mac Williamship and other titles.

In 1589 the de Burgo clans along with the O’ Flaherties,Joys  and  Clandonnel rose up against the English forces and plundered the baronies of Clare,Kilmaine and Clanmorris.

Sir Murrough O’Flaherty [(1540-1626)I believe he was a son of Grace O’Malley and Donal O’Flaherty] stayed with a few men at Keltyprichnane in Kilmaine and sent the rest under his son Teige to plunder the baronies of Clare and Dunmore where they burned 16 towns and gathered 3000 head of cattle and horses. The” rebel forces” gathered at the Carre in Kilmainham and engaged the English. Edward Bermingham of MilltownCastle and former Sherrif of Mayo joined the battle after being attacked by Teig O’ Flaherty. He described the battle in a letter written from Athlone on the 31st March:-

“The soldiers not neglecting their time went against them; there was a volley of shot on both sides.They came to the push of the pike with great courage, when the said Teig O’ Flaherty was slain with eight of his company. They were then disordered and I with six horsemen of mine and eight footmen, being beside our battle as a wing ready to charge upon the breach, did charge,

When I struck their Guidion (standard bearer) under his morion (helmet) with my staff and ran him through in the face of battle. I followed another and had him down, and so did my horseman Kill 5 more at that charge. We had not six score of ground to deal with them when they recovered a main bog. Three of my horsemen and eight footmen did kill of them in the bog 16.

Her majesties attorney in that province (Mr Comerford)understanding of their disordering, issued forth when he met of them and did slay 16.Divers others in the fight did kill of them, so that I account there is slain of them 80 and upwards. The attorney and I brought the head of Teige O’Flaherty to Sir Richard yester night that was wonderful glad, for this Teige was the stoutest man in the province and could do most.”

According to a letter written by Comerford at Turin Castle Ireland dated 29th March Comerford rode two miles to the battle field and sallied forth on the fugitives with six shot, seven footmen and four horsemen killing 24.

Following the subjugation and pacification of the Gaelic lords and subsequent plantation of Mayo. Many of the Castles were abandoned by their new English owners preferring the comfort of Manor houses. In some cases, incorporating the existing building or cannibalising materials from it. From records we know that Turin Castle Ireland had been abandoned for at least two hundred and fifty years up until its restoration in 1997.

11. Westbrook Country House, Castlebar, County Mayo – boutique country house holiday rental

https://www.westbrookhousemayo.com

The website tells us:

A New Boutique Georgian Country House, Westbrook epitomises elegance & splendour. Located between the tourist meccas’ Westport & Castlebar, Westbrook Country House is the ideal base from which to explore the stunning West of Ireland Wild Atlantic Way, cycle the Greenway, sail on Clew Bay, climb Croagh Patrick, visit Knock Shrine or the National Museum of Country Life, or catch a show in the Castlebar Theatre Royal.

As restful or as adventurous as you prefer your break to be, Westbrook Country House is the perfect place to base yourself; with world-class home cooked breakfasts, and stylish, spacious, immaculate five star hotel-grade guest rooms & suites complimented by a relaxed, friendly family atmosphere.

Curl up on a leather armchair in front of a roaring fire with a first edition or your favourite novel in our library, climb in under crisp white linen sheets on one of our sumptuous beds or sink into a bubbling Jacuzzi bath with your favourite music & a lovely glass of Sauvingon Blanc, our vibe is opulent and fabulous but down to earth, and homely. We pride ourselves on guest consideration that is second to none.

Arrive as a Guest, leave as a friend. We look forward to welcoming you to Westbrook.”

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31310114/brookhill-brookhill-co-mayo

[2] http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie:8080/LandedEstates/jsp/estate-show.jsp?id=638

[3] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[4] http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2014/07/owenmore-house.html

[5] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en

[6] https://archiseek.com/2009/breaffy-house-co-mayo-ireland/

[7] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/31303909/mount-falcon-drumrevagh-co-mayo

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com