I published this entry as part of my “Places to visit and stay in County Cork” page, but as that page is so long, I am publishing it as a separate entry. Also, Stephen and I are still busy looking for a small place in the country to buy, so I can grow our own fruit and vegetables – and maybe keep chickens! – so we have not had time to visit more historic houses. I am still working on my write-up about our visit to Grenane House in County Tipperary during Heritage Week last year, and I still have to write up about Clonskeagh Castle in Dublin and Gravelmount.

Fota House is maintained by the Irish Heritage Trust, and the gardens by the Office of Public Works.

General enquiries: (021) 481 5543 https://fotahouse.com/

fota.arboretum@opw.ie

From the OPW website: https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/fota-arboretum-and-gardens/

“Fota House was designed by 19th century architects Richard and William Morrison. From the beautifully proportioned rooms with exquisite plasterwork, to the preserved service wing and kitchens, Fota House offers visitors an intimate look at how life was lived in the past, for the cooks, butlers, footmen and maids who supported the lavish lifestyle of the gentry. Our painting collection is considered to be one of the finest collections of landscape painting outside the National Gallery of Ireland and includes works by William Ashford PRHA, Robert Carver, Jonathan Fisher and Thomas Roberts.” [1]

Mark Bence-Jones writes in his A Guide to Irish Country Houses:

“(Smith-Barry (now Villiers)/IFR) After Barry’s Court had been abandoned by the Barrymores, a hunting box was built on the nearby Fota Island, in Cork Harbour, by Hon John Smith-Barry [1725-1784], a younger son of 4^th Earl of Barrymore, to whom Fota and some of the other Barrymore estates were given 1714.” [2]

John Barry (1725-1784), who added the name Smith to his surname after his marriage to a wealthy heiress, was the son of James Barry, 4th Earl of Barrymore, of Castlelyons, County Cork, and Barry’s third wife, Anne Chichester, daughter of Arthur Chichester, 3rd Earl of Donegall (it was spelled with two ‘l’s in the title, unlike the county).

James Barry 4th Earl of Barrymore had first married Elizabeth Boyle, daughter of Charles Boyle 2nd Baron Clifford of Lanesborough, son of Richard, 1st Earl Burlington, 2nd Earl of Cork.

Second, after the death of his first wife, James Barry 4th Earl married Elizabeth Savage, daughter of Richard, 4th Earl Rivers.

Thirdly, he married Anne Chichester.

John Barry was a younger son so inherited no land. His brother James became the 5th Earl of Barrymore. However, he married Dorothy Smith, daughter of Hugh Smith of Weald Hall, Essex, and John added Smith to his surname. He and his wife lived at Marbury Hall in Cheshire, England, and he built Fota as a hunting lodge.

John and Dorothy’s oldest son and heir was James Hugh Smith-Barry (1746-1801). He never married, but had several children. He inherited from two uncles, his father’s brothers, as well as from his father.

The Landed Families website tells us:

“Through the deaths without surviving issue of Arthur Barry in 1770 and Capt. Richard Barry in 1787, and the death of his father in 1784, James Hugh Smith-Barry inherited almost all the extensive property held by the three brothers, but if it made him rich it does not seem to have made him happy. As a young man he had racketed around Europe and the Near East with a group of friends on an extended Grand Tour, and amassed a large collection of art and antiques. On his return, however, he did not marry and settle down to raise a family, but became increasingly reclusive, perhaps as a result of depression. In about 1790 he bought Swerford Park in Oxfordshire and established a mistress called Ann Tanner there, by whom he eventually had five children. They appear not to have lived together since Ann stayed at Swerford and James lived increasingly at Fota; the children were brought up at Swerford. The children were all acknowledged and the elder son, John Smith-Barry (1793-1837) became James’ principal heir, but they were all quite young when James died in 1801. He left Ann the Swerford estate for life, and an annuity of £500 a year, and clearly envisaged that she would remain there and bring up the children to adulthood, even if she subsequently married. However, when she did marry in 1802, James’ trustees saw fit to take the children away from their mother and place them in the guardianship of relatives in Ireland (probably the Courtenays at Ballyedmond, as Robert Courtenay was one of the trustees). Ann remained at Swerford until about 1805 but then moved away, and Swerford was eventually sold in about 1820.” [3]

Frank Keohane tells us that John Smith-Barry (1783-1837), son of James Hugh Smith-Barry (1746-1801) settled here after his marriage to Eliza Courtenay of Ballyedmond, Midleton, County Cork. He was illegitimate, so perhaps he built the home to establish his reputation. [4] He wanted to claim the title of Earl of Barrymore when the last Earl, Henry Barry, 8th Earl of Barrymore died in 1823, but the crown would not allow it.

Other children of James Hugh Smith-Barry (1746-1801) were Narcissa, who married George William Massy, son of Hugh, 3rd Baron of Duntrileague, County Limerick; James, who lived at Lota Lodge in County Cork (it is now the Vienna Woods Hotel); Caroline who married George Courtenay; and Louisa, who married Thomas Berry Cusack-Smith, son of William, 2nd Baronet Smith, of Newton, King’s County.

John Smith-Barry (1783-1837) hired Richard and William Vitruvius Morrison to enlarge the hunting lodge which had been built by his grandfather. He also built sea walls around the island and re-routed the public road to form a deer park and carriage drives around the shore.

Bence-Jones continues: “This house, of three storeys and seven bays, was greatly enlarged ca. 1820 by John Smith-Barry [1783-1837, grandson of his earlier namesake] to the design of Sir Richard Morrison, so that it became a wide-spreading Regency mansion of stucco with stone dressings. The original house, given a single-storey Doric portico with fluted columns and acroteria beneath a pedimented Wyatt window, remained the centre of the composition; flanked by two storey projecting wings with pedimented ends on the entrance front and curved bows on the garden front. A long two storey service range was added at one side. In 1856, a billiard room wing, in the same style as the Morrison wings but of one storey only, was added on the entrance front, projecting from the end of the service range. The space between this and the main building was filled in ca 1900 by Arthur Smith-Barry, 1^st (and last) Lord Barrymore of a new creation [(1843-1925), grandson of John Smith-Barry], with a single-storey range containing a long gallery.” (see [2]) The long gallery was designed by William H. Hill.

Bence-Jones continues:“The exterior simplicity of Fota is a foil to the splendours within; for the interior has that richness which Sir Richard Morrison and his son, William Vitruvius, were so well able to create. The hall, which runs the entire length of the front of the original house, is divided by screens of paired Ionic columns with yellow scagliola.”

To the right of the long hall are the Drawing Room and Library. The Drawing Room is entered via a small ante-room.

The Drawing Room Ceiling has deep borders with floral wreaths containing doves, alternating with lozenges of bay leaf containing Apollonian trophies of musical and hunting instruments. The drawing room and ante-room ceilings were added to in the 1890s with stencilwork and gilding by Sibthorpe & Son of Dublin.

There are also magnificent pelmets over the curtains.

To the left of the hall is the Dining Room. It has a screen of grey scagliola Corinthian columns at the sideboard end, and rich plasterwork with a ceiling border of vines on a trellis ground and a frieze of bucrania draped with garlands.

The Fota website tells us: “Also on display in the main reception rooms is a fine collection of art work described as the most significant of its type outside the National Gallery of Ireland.  Masterpieces of the eighteenth-century Irish Landscape School include works by William Ashford (1746-1824); George Barret (1730-84); Robert Carver (c.1730-91); and Thomas Roberts (1748-78). Nineteenth-century art is represented by Daniel Maclise (1806-70); Erskine Nicol (1825-1904); and James Arthur O’Connor (1792-1841).  An entire room is dedicated to Irish watercolours and features the work of Mildred Anne Butler (1858-1941); Hugh Douglas Hamilton (c.1740-1808); and George Petrie (1790-1866).” [6]

At the back of the house is the study, which extends into one of the bows. It has a simple frieze of wreaths.

John and his wife Eliza née Courtenay had several children. A younger son, Captain Richard Hugh Smith-Barry, inherited Ballyedmond, County Cork, from his mother’s brother John Courtenay.

The oldest son, James Hugh Smith-Barry (1816-1856), inherited Fota and also Marbury Hall in Cheshire. He served as Deputy Lieutenant, Justice of the Peace and High Sheriff of County Cork. He married Elizabeth Jacson of Cheshire. After her husband died, she married George Fleming Warren, 2nd Baron de Tabley of Tabley House, County Chester.

Arthur Hugh Smith-Barry (1843-1925), the oldest son of James and Elizabeth, inherited Fota and also Marbury Hall. He too served as Deputy Lieutenant, Justice of the Peace and High Sheriff of County Cork as well as Member of Parliament (M.P.) (Conservative) for County Cork between 1867 and 1874. He held the office of Member of Parliament (M.P.) (Conservative) for South Huntingdonshire in England between 1886 and 1900. In 1902 he was created 1st (and last) Baron Barrymore of County Cork.

Arthur’s younger brother James Hugh Smith-Barry (1845-1927) married Charlotte June Cole, daughter of William Willoughby Cole, 3rd Earl of Enniskillen, of Florence Court, County Fermanagh (see my entry for places to see in County Fermanagh). A daughter, Geraldine, married Colonel Henry Verney, 18th Lord Willoughby de Broke, and Maude married Richard Alexander Oswald.

Arthur married twice. First he married Mary Frances Wyndham-Quin in 1868, daughter of Edwin Richard Wyndham-Quin, 3rd Earl of Dunraven and Mount-Earl, of Adare Manor in County Limerick. She died in 1884 and their only son died when less than one year old. Arthur married secondly Elizabeth Wadsworth, widow of Arthur Post, daughter of an American General James Samuel Wadsworth.

They had a daughter, Dorothy (1894-1975), who purchased Fota. The Landed Families website tells us:

“As the elder son, Arthur inherited the Marbury and Fota estates, and also had a town house in London. As a largely absentee landlord and politician in the forefront of resistance to land reform, his estates became a particular focus for agitation by the National League, and his agents were threatened with physical violence. He had two daughters but no surviving son, so the peerage died with him and the Fota and Marbury estates passed under an entail to his younger brother’s son, Col. Robert Raymond Smith-Barry (1886-1949). Col. Smith-Barry, who made a notable contribution to air warfare during the First World War by establish a system for the rigorous training of pilots, also inherited property in Wiltshire from his father. He sold Marbury Hall in 1932 for conversion into a country club, and in 1939 he sold Fota and the family’s Huntingdonshire estate to Lord Barrymore’s younger daughter, Mrs. Dorothy Bell (1894-1975). After the Second World War he moved to South Africa, where he died in 1949. Mrs Bell remained the enthusiastic custodian of Fota until her death in 1975, when her heirs sold the estate to University College, Cork.“

Bence-Jones continues: “A doorway opposite the entrance door leads into the staircase hall, which is of modest size, being the staircase hall of the original house; but it has been greatly enriched with plasterwork. The ceiling is domed, with wreaths on the pendentives and eagles in the lunettes; there is a frieze of wreaths and at the head of the stairs two fluted Tower of Winds columns frame an enchanting vista to a second and smaller staircase, leading up to the top storey.” The stairs are of cantilevered Portland stone, with brass balusters and a mahogany handrail.

At the top of the stairs is a small recess, leading up to the secondary stair, with a pair of shell-headed niches, a Greek-key border and a pair of Tower of the Winds columns.

A cross-corridor gives access to the bedrooms, the differing levels resulting in various little lobbies and landings.

The principal bedroom suite is placed over the Dining Room and communicates directly with nurseries in the service wing. The suite contains a boudoir with barrel-vaulted ceiling and a half-dome decorated with doves trailing garlands. Plaster drapery fills the lunette to the vault with a little top-lit skylight at the apex of the dome with amber and blue coloured glazing.

Next we went to the man of the house’s bedroom.

Dorothy (1894-1975), the last of the clan to live on the Barry estates, was the daughter of Arthur Hugh Smith-Barry, 1st and last Baron Barrymore. She married Major William Bertram Bell. They had three daughters.

Their daughter Rosemary Elizabeth (1924-2011) married Captain Anthony Henry Heber Villiers (1821-2004).

Fota was sold to University College Cork and in 1983, Richard Wood took a lease of the house and restored it with John O’Connell as architect, to display his collection of Irish art to the public. It was then sold and the pictures removed, and in 1991 the house and arboretum passed to the Fota Trust and in 1999 extensive conservation work was carried out under the direction of John Cahill of the Office of Public Works. [7]

The nursery has lovely wallpaper, reconstructed by David Skinner.

To pass from the family’s quarters to the servants’ quarters, one passes through a tradition “green baize door,” baize being the material used on billiards tables, probably used on doors to suppress the sound from travelling.

Next we headed to kitchen and basement. There’s a wet “larder” and a dry pantry.

Bence-Jones writes: “In mid-C19, James Hugh Smith-Barry laid out formal gardens behind the house, with lawns and hedges, wrought-iron gates and rusticated piers, a temple and an orangery. He also began to plant the arboretum, which has since become world-famous. The planting was continued for more than a century after his death by his son, [Arthur Hugh Smith-Barry (1843-1925)] Lord Barrymore [1st Baron Barrymore], and by Lord Barrymore’s son-in-law and daughter, Major [William Bertram] and Hon Mrs [Dorothy] Bell; in the mild climate of Fota many rare and tender species flourish. The demesne of Fota extends over the entire island, which is skirted by the road and railway from Cork to Cobh; there are impressive Classical entrance gates by Morrison similar to those at Ballyfin, Co Laois and Killruddery, Co Wicklow. On the point of the island is an early C19 castellated turret, by John Hargrave of Cork. Fota was sold 1975 to University College Cork.” 

The OPW website tells us:

The arboretum and gardens on Fota Island, just 16 kilometres from Cork city centre, are an essential destination for any one of a horticultural bent.

The arboretum extends over 11 hectares and contains one of the finest collections of rare, tender trees and shrubs grown outdoors in Europe. The unique conditions at Fota – its warm soil and sheltered location – enable many excellent examples of exotics from the southern hemisphere to flourish.

The gardens include such stunning features as the ornamental pond, formal pleasure gardens, orangery and sun temple. James Hugh Smith-Barry laid them out in the first half of the nineteenth century. Fota House, the Smith-Barrys’ ancestral home, still stands. The house, arboretum and gardens share the island with a hotel and golf resort and a wildlife park. [8]

[1] fotahouse.com

[2] p. 127. Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[3] https://landedfamilies.blogspot.com/2020/06/421-smith-barry-of-marbury-hall-belmont.html

[4] p. 412. Keohane, Frank. Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County, Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2020.

[5] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en/media-assets/media/44873

[6] http://www.buildingsofireland.ie/PlacesToSee/Cork/

[7] p. 412. Keohane, Frank. Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County, Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2020.

[8] https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/fota-arboretum-and-gardens/

Text © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com