Maryborough, Douglas, Co Cork

Maryborough, Douglas, Co Cork – Maryborough Hotel €€

  https://www.maryborough.com

Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.

The website tells us:

Located in the leafy suburbs of Douglas, yet minutes from Cork City Centre, The Maryborough has a character and style all of its own. Set in 18 acres of 300-year-old listed gardens and woodland, our family-owned boutique hotel affords guests an experience in luxury itself and is among the top hotels in Cork.  The Maryborough Hotel is unique with its charming 18th Century Mansion accompanied by the creatively designed contemporary extension. All of this combined makes The Maryborough the perfect destination.

The hotel delivers a unique experience in an exceptional atmosphere. From the moment you enter, we will guarantee you a level of personal service and care designed to match the exquisite surroundings of our 300-year-old listed gardens. Guests can enjoy an award-winning restaurant in Cork, state of the art Leisure Club and luxurious ESPA spa.

Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.

Our History

The Maryborough Hotel & Spa is one of the most renowned 4 star hotels in Cork today. The Maryborough’s Georgian Manor House was built in 1710 by Mr Richard Newenham [note that a Richard Newenham of Maryborough married Sarah Devonsher, niece of Abraham Devonsher of Kilshannig]. Descendants of the Newenhams as well as other families lived there up until the 1990s when it was purchased by the O’Sullivan family. In 1997 the family opened what is now The Maryborough Hotel, a 4 star luxury hotel in Cork with 93 bedrooms.

Since becoming a hotel, the Mansion House has fortunately retained its striking original architectural features. Some of the rooms at The Maryborough still showcase Adam style decoration – notably the entrance hall and some mantelpieces. This adds to the historical relevance of the manor house and contributes to the decadence and luxury of this boutique hotel in Cork.

The former eighteenth-century stately home is set amid acres of woods and beautiful gardens, just south of Cork’s historical city centre in Douglas. John Newenham, a younger brother of the last Newenham owner of The Maryborough was a great gardener and collector of trees. Thanks to his inspired work the gardens at The Maryborough still host quite a collection, in particular of rhododendrons, making it one of the reasons for The Maryborough being one of the best hotels in Cork.

The Maryborough works to continually develop a deluxe guest experience merging the hotels history with beautifully appointed accommodations. In order to incorporate the elegant grandeur of the old house into the hotel, several splendid suites were built on the upper floors of the Mansion House. Read more about our luxury suites in Cork.

To compliment the opulent charm of the old house, the hotel’s contemporary extension was built. It is here you will find our Deluxe, Executive and Family Rooms. Spectacular architecture blended with effortless service and genuine hospitality makes the Maryborough one of the top hotels in Cork.

Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.  

p. 204. “(Newenham/IFR; Sherrard, sub Morrough/IFR) A three storey seven bay mid-C18 house with a lower late-Georgian bow-fronted addition. On the garden front, the house is weather-slated; and the main block is joined by a curving corridor to an office wing with a high-pitched sprocketed roof. Hall with ceiling of Adamesque plasterwork and floor of black and white pavement. Dining room with plasterwork frieze. Staircase of handsome C18 joinery, with Corinthian newels. Upper hall with ceiling of rococo plasterwork in the manner of Robert West. In the late-Georgian wing, there is an oval cantilevered stone staircase with an iron balustrade; the wing also formerly contained a ballroom and library, but these were destroyed by fire 1914 and rebuilt as kitchens. Originally the seat of a branch of the Newenham family; passed at the beginning of the present century to the Sherrard family.” 

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

p. 27. Of mid-C18 Palladian interiors, good representative examples with panelled dados, lugged architraves, fielded panelling and chunky cornices are found at Coole Abbey House, Assolas, Cloghroe, Kilshannig, and Blackrock House. Curiously, the heavy Palladian lugged architrave remained in use in the county long after it fell out of fashion elsewhere. At Lisnabrin, Dunkathel, Burton, Rockforest and Muckridge, the form is encountered in late C18 Neoclassical interiors, suggesting an innate conservatism among local joiners. The finest joinery in most houses is reserved for the staircase, and in many cases these have survived. The best early C18 staircases, at the Red House and Annes Grove, have alternating barley-twist and columnar balusters, big Corinthian newel posts, ramped handrails and carved tread-end brackets. Mount Alvernia (Mallow), Carrigrohane and Cloghroe all have good mid-C18 staircases of a similar type; that at Lota is exceptional in its use of mahogany and for its imperial plan. Good Neoclassical staircases, geometrical in form with delicate ironwork balustrades, survive at Maryborough, Newmarket Court and Castle Hyde; the destruction of those at Vernon Mount is a particularly sad loss. 

The best early plasterwork is that of the Swiss-Italian brothers Paolo and Filippo Lafranchini at Riverstown, where highly sculptural late Baroque figurative ornament is applied to the walls and ceilings of the Saloon… Filippo alone decorated two rooms at Kilshannig, blending late Baroque figures with lighter acanthus arabesques and putti. Rococo plasterwork featuring scrolling acanthus and birds comparable to the Dublin school of the 1760s is encountered in the Saloon at Castlemartyr, and at Maryborough. At Laurentium (Doneraile) and the Old College (Youghal), it is rather more hesitant. For the most part, stucco workers remain anonymous, so it is a happy circumstance that Patrick Osborne’s accomplished work at the former Mansion House at Cork is recorded. He also probably worked at Lota, as well as at Castle Hyde. Good Neoclassical plasterwork in low relief and employing small-scale classical motifs of the type made fashionable by Robert Adam and James Wyatt is found at Maryborough, at Old Court House (Rochestown), and at the Old College and Loreto College at Youghal.  

https://theirishaesthete.com/2025/02/24/maryborough/

A Handsome House

by theirishaesthete



‘Not far from Douglas is a handsome house adorned with a cupola and good plantations, the residence of Mr Richard Newenham, merchant in Cork, a gentleman who is the largest dealer in Ireland in the worsted trade, and employs some thousands in different parts of this country in spinning bay yarn, which he exports to Bristol.’ From The Ancient and Present State of the County and City of Cork by Charles Smith (1750). 
The Newenhams are believed to have settled in Cork in the early 17th century and to have prospered as merchants: in 1671 one of their number, John Newenham, served as Mayor of Cork city. One branch of the family would come to live at Coolmore (see Trans-Atlantic Links « The Irish Aesthete). Believed to have been born around 1705, Richard Newenham was the son of another John, a clothier who some years earlier had become a Quaker. His father-in-law, Thomas Wight, who also began professional life as a clothier, was author of A history of the rise and progress of the people called Quakers, in Ireland, from the year 1653 to 1700. The eldest of seven children, Richard Newenham prospered and, as noted by Charles Smith, developed a thriving textile business. As Daniel Beaumont has noted, he may also have been involved in the manufacture of sailcloth, because the village of Douglas, close to Maryborough, had become an important centre for this industry. Newenham also went into partnership with a number of other men in the business of ‘sugar making and sugar boiling’ on the southern outskirts of Cork city. In 1738 he married Sarah Devonsher, member of another successful Quaker family which was responsible for building Kilshannig (see Exuberance « The Irish Aesthete). 

Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.





Probably built not long before Charles Smith published his book on Cork in 1750 and thought to be on the site of an earlier house, Maryborough was then described as having a cupola, but that no longer exists. The main body of the house is rendered, of three storeys over a raised basement, and seven bays wide, the three-bay breakfront defined with limestone quoins. A substantial flight of steps leads up to the pedimented entrance doorcase, also of limestone. The rear of the house is similar, having a three-bay breakfront but with a Gibbsian doorcase and the two upper floors being slate-fronted, as is the upper section of an extension to the east. The latter’s two-storied facade is a substantial, three-bay bow. This part of the building is thought to be a later extension from c.1830 while behind it is another addition from the late 18th century, a gable-ended wing accommodating a cantilevered Portland stone staircase: Frank Keohane proposes this as the work of local architect Michael Shanahan (who also worked in Ulster for the Earl-Bishop of Derry). The interiors of Maryborough are relatively plain, as befitted the home of a member of the Quaker community, amongst whom there was strong disapproval of gratuitous ornament. However, one room on the first floor has an elaborately decorated rococo ceiling, heavily enriched with scrolling acanthus leaves and an abundance of floral bouquets. 

Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.





Following Richard Newenham’s death in 1759, Maryborough was inherited by his only son John, and after the latter died in turn his son, another Richard, inherited the property. In 1837 it was described by Samuel Lewis as ‘the residence of E.E. Newenham Esq., a noble mansion in a spacious demesne, embellished with stately timber.’
Maryborough remained in the ownership of the Newenhams until the late 19th century, although rented out for some years before being sold to Thomas Sherrard in 1889. His descendants lived there until 1995 when the place was sold to the present owners who turned the house into an hotel, with a large bedroom extension added to the south and, more recently, an orangery/function room to the immediate west of the old building.

Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.
Maryborough, County Cork, photograph courtesy Irish Aesthete.

Lough Ine House and Lodge, Skibereen, County Cork

Lough Ine House and Lodge, Skibereen, County Cork – whole house or gate lodge €€€ for two, € for 5-8; or gate lodge €

http://www.loughinehouse.com

The website tells us:

This beautiful holiday house and cottage are set on stunning Lough Ine sometimes spelt Lough Hyne – which is well known as one of the most romantic spots in West Cork.

Just 85km from Cork airport, Lough Ine is easily accessible but also far enough off the beaten track to be the perfect place to get away for either a romantic break or a fabulous family holiday.

The House: “This elegant Regency house was built in 1830 as a hunting lodge for Lord Carbery and maintains several original features to this day. It is surrounded by its own 15 acre estate on the edge of Lough Ine and includes a patio garden, beautiful walkways through the woods and gardens and a private shingle beach. The Lough is a famous beauty spot 5km from Skibbereen and 4km from Baltimore in West Cork, Ireland. The estate is located in a conservation area of outstanding natural beauty.

Elegantly furnished for comfortable country life, polished oak floors and period furniture add to the unique charm of this house. The unique vine-filled conservatory has a large breakfast area and elegant seating area with rattan furniture. Sun pours through the French windows in the interconnecting reception rooms, offering spectacular views of the garden, lough and surrounding hills.

From the elegant panelled hall, a striking curved staircase leads you to the first floor where you will find 3 double bedrooms and a large bathroom. The two front bedrooms overlook the sea and are elegantly decorated with material on the walls and fine furniture. One has an eighteenth century four-poster bed, the others have twin beds. The charming third room overlooks the gardens. The bathroom is worth noting for its historic bathtub, which used to belong to Winston Churchill!

On the ground floor there are two further wood panelled twin bedrooms each with their own bathroom containing bathtub and shower. The rowing boat is at your disposal to explore the island where you can see the remains of an O’Driscoll castle and picnic on the beach, or visit the shoreline and rapids that lead out to the sea.

The Gate Lodge: “The gate lodge is an 18th Century, small cosy house at the entrance of the property on the edge of the lough, with wonderful view of the sea, the island and the fields.

The ground floor is an open plan living room with a large fireplace, a dining area, a kitchenette and a spiral staircase leading to a twin bedroom overlooking the lough, a single bedroom and a bathroom with basin, W.C, bath and shower.

Longueville, Mallow, Co Cork

Longueville, Mallow, Co Cork – Blue Book accommodation (2-29 people), €€€

https://www.longuevillehouse.ie/

Longueville House, photograph from myhome.ie

The website tells us:

Longueville House is a stunning 302 year old listed Georgian Country House hidden in the heart of a 400-acre wooded estate overlooking The Blackwater Valley, County Cork – the scenic gateway to the Southwest of Ireland.

Steeped in history and packed with character, this owner-occupied 4-star Country House Hotel operates in two distinctly different ways.       

Firstly Longueville House warmly welcomes overnight guests for weekend and midweek stays with various themed and seasonal breaks to experience.                                                                                         

Secondly, Longueville House may be booked privately for Small themed groups, multigenerational families and Corporate delegates who prefer the privacy and pace of an Exclusive Hire Venue. Longueville House sleeps 2 – 29 guests at full capacity. 

Longueville is a family story where for generations. The O’Callaghans have preserved and merged their passion for the house, the land, food and entertaining, with the kitchen garden being at the heart of it all.

Maintaining and modernising the house and grounds has been a labour of love for William and Aisling your hosts. A home-from-home, classic but informal, where open log fires crackle in vintage hearths and intriguing heirlooms jostle with fresh flowers from the garden.

For years The O’Callaghans have made an ongoing commitment to only using home grown and local produce, celebrating the seasons, incorporating the most authentic and freshest of ingredients, thus enabling William to create menus bursting with flavour. What’s not grown or reared in Longueville is sourced from local farms and artisan suppliers.

Our ethos is simple, our style is unstuffy, less formal. Conserving the beauty of Longueville through generations of love, to be shared with future generations to come.”

Longueville House, photograph from myhome.ie

Mark Bence-Jones tells us of Longueville:

p. 191. “(Longfield/IFR) A three storey five bay C18 block, enlarged by the addition of two storey three bay wings in the late Georgian period, probably between 1800-5 by John Longfield, MP; the centre being refaced and some of its windows altered at the same time so as to make the front uniform. One bay central breakfront, Wyatt windows in two upper storeys above a fanlighted doorway beneath a single-storey portico. One of the wings was extended at right angles to the front ca 1866, and a charming Victorian conservatory of curved ironwork was added, probably at the same time. The principal reception rooms, which have simple early C19 plasterwork and doors of inlaid mahogany, extend on either side of the entrance hall, which has a floor of Portland stone. Behind is the staircase hall, with bifurcating staircase which is most unusual in rising to the top of the house; the central ramp and two returns being repeated in the storey above. Longueville was sold by the Longfields to the late Senator William O’Callaghan, whose son and daughter-in-law have opened it as an hotel.” 

Inscription verso reads, ‘Harriette / Née McClintock – wife of Richard Longfield of Longueville Co. Cork.’ courtesy of Whyte’s May 2016. Harriet Elizabeth (c. 1814-1834) was the daughter of John McClintock (1770-1855) of County Louth and Elizabeth Trench (1784-1877), and she married Richard Longfield (1802-1889) of Longueville, County Cork.

The National Inventory tells us of the Turner conservatory:

Constructed in 1862, this glasshouse was the last designed by Richard Turner, whose portfolio includes the conservatory at the famous Kew Gardens in London. The cast-iron framework and attractively flawed glass are of considerable technical interest and create a focal point for Longueville House, to which it is attached.

Castle Townshend, Co Cork – accommodation

Castle Townshend, Co Cork – accommodation

http://castle-townshend.com/

Castle Townshend, County Cork, June 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We visited the Castle of Castletownshend when on holidays in County Cork in June 2022. The Castle is a hidden gem, full of history. We definitely look forward to a return visit, to stay in the Castle, which provides B&B accommodation.

The castle remains in the ownership of the same family, the Townshends, who built it and who have lived here since the 1650s! We came upon the Townshend family of Castletownshed when we visited Drishane House. The Somervilles of Drishane intermarried with their cousins the Townshends who lived down the road. See my write-up:

https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/03/07/drishane-house-castletownshend-co-cork/

The Castle, Castletownshend: A castellated house, consisting of two battlemented towers joined by a range with dormer gables. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us:

In the picturesque village of Castletownshend, past ‘The Two Trees’ at the bottom of the hill, you’ll find our family-run boutique B&B. Nestled at the edge of a scenic harbour and natural woodlands for you to explore, The Castle is a truly unique place to stay. It has the warm, homely feel of a traditional Irish B&B, but with a few extra special touches.

The gardens and view from Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “Steeped in history, The Castle has been home to the Townshend family since the 1650s and has been receiving guests for over 60 years. Inside the old stone walls, you’ll find welcoming faces to greet you, roaring fires to warm you, and comfy beds to sink into. Each room has its own story to tell, with the oak-panelled hall and spacious dining room retaining most of their original features, furniture, and family portraits.

The website explains the family name: “The family name has undergone several changes over the years. The original spelling was Townesend, which later became Townsend. In 1870, the head of the family, Reverend Maurice Fitzgerald Townshend [1791-1872], consulted with the Townshends of Raynham, Norfolk. Following this, it was requested that the whole family add the ‘h’ into the name. However, some families were quite content with the current spelling and refused to adopt the new one. This resulted in various different spellings spread across the branches throughout the UK, Ireland, Australia and Canada.” [1]

Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The centre of the castle is the oldest part, and the two end towers are later additions.

The National Inventory describes: “Square-headed door opening to porch with stone voussoirs, label moulding and timber door with cast-iron studs, strap hinges and door furniture.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us: “The building is in fact a 17th century castellated house, not a defensive castle from earlier times. It was built by Colonel Richard Townesend [1618-1692] towards the end of the 17th century, starting off as a much smaller dwelling. The first castle, known as ‘Bryan’s Fort’ [named after his son Bryan (1648-1726)], was attacked and destroyed by the O’Driscolls in 1690, and its ruins remain in The Castle grounds to this day. Richard then built a second castle, which is thought to be where Swift’s Tower still stands.

A map of the area of Castletownshend.
The map shows us 7. the fort which Colonel Richard Townshend built around 1650, which was probably the first castle of the area. It is now called Bryans Fort after the Colonel’s son Bryan who inherited the Castle Townshend estate in 1722. A second castle was then built, which now probably exists as the ruins called “Swift’s Tower” (8). The centre block of (1) was probably built around 1780, according to Frank Keohane.
“Swift’s Tower,” which may have been part of an earlier house. Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), author and cleric, travelled to the area and his poem “Carberiae Rupes” (Carbery Rocks) is believed to capture the view looking out from the West Cork coastline. One of the guest rooms in the Castle is named in memory of him, The Dean’s Room, as he was Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues “In 1805 the floors were lowered to make the ceilings higher, a decision that left The Castle in ruins. However, instead of rebuilding it, the stone was used to add castellated wings to the dwelling on the waterfront. This became The Castle as you see it today.

Castle Townshend, County Cork.

The inside is a real treat, with wonderful family portraits in the hall of oak and what looks like leather wall covering.

The wood-panelled hall of the Castle in Castletownshend. The portrait of the children is of the children of Reverend Maurice Fitzgerald Townshend (1791-1872): Geraldine, Alice and Henry John. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Colonel Richard Townesend (1618-1692), who was born in England, gained the rank of Officer in the Parliamentary Army in the British Civil War. [2] The Parliament objected to the monarchy of the Stuarts, and they charged the king, Charles I, of treason against the state and ultimately beheaded him. Oliver Cromwell brought troops to Ireland to subdue those loyal to the monarchy. The opposing force to the royalist forces was called the Parliamentary army. Townesend fought in the Battle of Knocknanauss, County Cork in April 1648, where he commanded the main body of the Army under Murrough O’Brien (1614-1674) 1st Earl of Inchiquin. They fought the Irish Confederates, who supported King Charles I in the belief that in reward for their loyalty he would grant them greater self-governance. The Confederate forces were made up of Irish Catholics and “old English” Anglo-Normans who sought to protect their land holding and to end anti-Catholic legislation. The Parliamentarians overcame the Confederates in the battle, and around 3,000 Confederates died at Knocknanauss and up to 1,000 English Parliamentarians.

Murrough O’Brien (1614-1674) 1st Earl of Inchiquin by John Michael Wright courtesy of Manchester Art Gallery.

Richard Townesend’s loyalty to the Parliamentarians wavered after this battle and after the death of Charles I. He returned to Ireland, and he was arrested for being involved in a plot to overcome Lord Inchiquin. However, he may have been a “plant” to undermine the opposition. A mutiny in the garrison at Cork however led to his freedom and Cromwell praised him for being an “instrument in the return of Cork and Youghal to their obedience.” He retired from the military and settled in Castletownshend before 1654. [3]

He managed to hold on to his land after the Stuart monarchy was restored to Charles II. The Dictionary of National Biography suggests that this could be due connections between his wife Hildegardis Hyde and the Lord Chancellor of England, Edward Hyde 1st Earl of Clarendon. Richard held the office of Member of Parliament in the Irish Parliament for Baltimore, County Cork in 1661. He held the office of High Sheriff of County Cork in 1671.

In 1690, after the accession of King James II to the throne, Richard’s home in Castetownshend was unsuccessfully beseiged by 500 Irishmen led by the O’Driscolls, a family who had owned the land before Townesend [for more on the O’Driscolls, see my entry on Baltimore Castle, https://irishhistorichouses.com/2023/12/28/dun-na-sead-castle-baltimore-co-cork-981-x968/ ]Townesend died in 1692, leaving seven sons and four daughters. [see 3]

Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Jane O’Hea O’Keeffe tells us of the Castle’s builder, in her Voices from the Great Houses: Cork and Kerry (Mercier Press, Cork, 2013): p. 83. “In the late 1600s Richard Townsend, an officer in the Cromwellian army, acquired lands at Castlehaven in west Cork originally owned by the O’Driscoll clan. Richard Townsend also owned other lands in County Cork totalling over 6,540 acres. It was he who built the castle at Castletownshend, the centre portion of which still remains. The two towers at each corner of the castle today were added in the eighteenth century.” [4]

Although she identifies the centre of the castle to be built by Richard in the 1600s, Frank Keohane describes Castle Townshend in his Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County and suggests that this part was built in 1780. The castle Richard built is probably the ruin nearby. In fact, An Officer of the Long Parliament (1892) we are told that he lived for some time in Kilbrittan Castle nearby, “a splendid very pile overlooking Courtmacsherry Bay, which had been forfeited by the head of the McCarthies for his participation in the Rebellion of 1641.

Kilbrittain Castle, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Roaringwaterjournal.com A friend’s father, inventor Russell Winn (d. 1980), restored a wing. See also their facebook page https://www.facebook.com/p/Kilbrittain-Castle-in-Ireland-100090029232570/?_rdr
Kilbrittain Castle by Hostynsky Photography.

Richard Townesend’s early house at Castletownshend is described in An Officer of the Long Parliament (1892):

p. 107-08. “It seems to have consisted of a dwelling – house and small courtyard all comprised in a square enclosure with a bastion at each angle, pierced with loopholes for musketry and some embrasures for small cannon. It was built on a well- chosen site of some strength. The dwelling-house consisted of two stories, the upper one overlooking the harbour. The lower one must have been lighted from the court, on the outer side of which was a parapet for defending the wall. It seems to have been hastily built, as the stones are small and not well put together.A larger mansion appears to have been built before long, which was valued at £ 40,000 , when destroyed in the troubles of 1690.”

Richard Townesend’s son Horatio was in the navy and in 1690 carried the Duke of Schomberg, who fought in King William’s army, to Ireland on board his sloop. He married Elizabeth, daughter of the MP for Baltimore, Thomas Becher.

Death of Frederick Duke of Schomberg at the Battle of the Boyne by Benjamin West, National Trust Mount Stewart.

Another son, John, married Catherine Barry, daughter of Richard, 2nd Earl of Barrymore. Son Philip (1664-1735), became a Protestant clergyman and married Helen Galwey of Lota Lodge, Cork.

Colonel Richard Townsend’s son Bryan (1648-1726) was a Commander in the British navy and MP for Clonakilty. He married Mary Synge, daughter of Edward, Bishop of Cork, Cloyne and Ross in 1663 and they had many children. In The Long Parliament, we are told of a portrait of Bryan: “If the very handsome picture at Castletownshend which has always borne his name is truly the portrait of Bryan, it most probably was painted while he was a naval officer, as he wears his own hair and not the voluminous wig in which gentlemen on land used to enshroud themselves.” I must look for this portrait next time we visit! Although it may have been destroyed, along with many papers and letters described in The Long Parliament, by fires in the castle.

Bryan was well-regarded by his neighbours:

The laws made it almost impossible for any but a Protestant to hold land, so many of the Carbery Romanists, especially the O’Heas and O’Donovans, trusting in Bryan’s high character for integrity, gave their properties entirely into his hands, being obliged to do so without any written guarantee 1. At one time he had under his care upwards of £ 80,000 worth of property which he defended at considerable cost to himself, and when it was safe to restore it to the real owners he did so with all the arrears that had accrued while he held it. This fact was ascertained by the research of the late John Sealy Townshend .” [see 1]

Bryan and Mary’s son Richard (1684-1742) inherited Castletownshend , and was a Justice of the peace and high sheriff for County Cork. He married twice, first to another Mary Synge, daughter of Reverend Samuel, Dean of Kildare. His second wife was Elizabeth Becher from Skibbereen, County Cork.

The Townshends tell us in The Long Parliament about Jonathan Swift’s visit:

Richard Townshend, of Castle Townshend, was born July 15, 1684, and succeeded to the estates on the death of his father Bryan, 1727 . It was at this period (*1) that Dean Swift spent some time in West Carbery . He stayed at Myros , but is said to have written his poem Carberiae Rupes in a ruined tower at Castle Townshend , still known as Swift’s Tower . It is also said that letters from the great Dean are still preserved at Castle Townshend , and that he named one of the houses in the village Laputa.” (*2)

The footnotes refer to *1: G. Digby Daunt and *2: Now Glen Barrahane, the seat of Sir J. J. Coghill , Bart .

Jonathan Swift by Charles Jervas circa 1718, National Portrait Gallery 278.

Richard (1684-1742) and Elizabeth Becher’s son Richard (1725-1783) also served as MP and high sheriff. He married Elizabeth Fitzgerald, daughter of John Fitzgerald, the 15th Knight of Kerry (d. 1741). His father was Maurice Fitzgerald, the 14th Knight of Kerry, and Elizabeth’s brother was Maurice the 16th Knight of Kerry – there is a portrait of a Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry, in the front hall, but I’m not sure which one is it. Richard’s portrait is in the dining room.

Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry – I’m not sure whether it is the 14th or 16th and Countess of Desmond, Katherine Fitzgerald (abt. 1504-1604). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Next to the Knight of Kerry in the hall there is also a portrait of the Countess of Desmond, Katherine Fitzgerald (abt. 1504-1604), who lived to be over one hundred years old (some say she lived to be 140) and went through three sets of teeth. We came across her also in Dromana in County Waterford.

Richard Townsend (1725-1783), served as MP and high sheriff and lived at Castletownshend. He married Elizabeth Fitzgerald. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Elizabeth Fitzgerald, wife of Richard Townsend. Elizabeth Fitzgerald was daughter of John Fitzgerald (1706-1741), 15th Knight of Kerry, and married to Richard Townsend (1725-1783). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Long Parliament describes:

Richard Townshend married in 1752 Elizabeth , only daughter and heiress by survival of John FitzGerald, 15th Knight of Kerry, by whom he had one son and one daughter. Elizabeth FitzGerald’s only brother Maurice, 16th Knight of Kerry, had married his cousin Lady Anne Fitzmaurice, and died leaving no children, but even now he is remembered as ‘ the good Knight.’ He left all the Desmond estates in Kerry to the son of his sister Elizabeth Townshend.”

It may have been Richard Townsend (1725-1783) and his wife, the daughter of the 15th Knight of Kerry, who started to build the castle we see today. Keohane writes of the current castle at Castletownshend:

p. 314. “The Castle. A house of several parts, the seat of the Townshends. The earliest, described as ‘newly built’ in 1780 by the Complete Irish Traveller, is presumably the two-storey, five-bay rubble-stone centre block, with dormers over the upper windows and a two-storey rectilinear porch. Taller three-storey wings with battlements carried on corbelled cornices and twin- and triple-light timber-mullioned windows. The E. wing was perhaps built in the late 1820s; the W wing was added after a fire in 1852. Modest interior. Large low central hall with a beamed ceiling and walls lined with oak panelling and gilded embossed wallpaper. Taller dining room to the r., with a compartmented ceiling; a Neoclassical inlaid fireplace in the manner of Bossi, and a large Jacobean sideboard. C19 staircase with barley-twist type balusters. 

Octagonal three-stage battlemented tower, 60 m west of the castle.” [5]

The Jacobean sideboard in the Dining Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Neoclassical inlaid fireplace in the manner of Bossi. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Jacobean sideboard in the Dining Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The carving on the sideboard is incredible. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Jane O’Hea O’Keeffe continues: “Over the following centuries, members of the Townsend family served as high sheriffs of County Cork. In 1753 Richard Townsend was the office-holder and in 1785 Richard Boyle Townsend [1756-1826] was appointed to the position. In the 1870s Richard M.F. Townsend owned over 7,000 acres near Dingle in County Kerry, inherited from the FitzGerald family, Knights of Kerry. At that time, the estate of the late Rev. Maurice Townshend extended to over 8,000 acres in County Cork...” [4]

Richard Townsend and Elizabeth Fitzgerald’s son Richard Boyle Townsend (1753-1826) inherited Castletownshend. He was educated at Eton and Oxford. He married Henrietta Newenham. There is a fine portrait of their son Lieutenant-Colonel John Townsend, of the 14th Light Dragoons, who held the office of Aide-de-Camp to Queen Victoria.

Lieutenant-Colonel John Townsend (1786-1845), of the 14th Light Dragoons, Aide de Camp to Queen Victoria. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I think this is a portrait of Henrietta Newenham (1764-1848). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Monument in nearby church, memorial to Colonel John Townsend.

Lt-Col John Townsend died in 1845, and the property passed to his brother, Reverend Maurice Townsend (d. 1872). Maurice married Alice Elizabeth Shute, heiress to Chevanage estate in Gloucestershire. Alice Elizabeth Shute was heiress by survival in her uncle Henry Stephens, and assumed his name. Maurice changed his name in 1870 to Maurice FitzGerald Stephens-Townshend (he was the one who added the ‘h’ in the name). She died at Castle Townshend aged only twenty-eight.

They had a son John Henry Townshend (1827-1869), who gained the rank of officer in the 2nd Life Guards. A fire occurred in 1852, during Reverend Maurice’s time in Castletownshend.

John Henry Townshend (1827-1869). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us about the fire: “Disaster struck again in 1852 when the newly built East Wing went up in flames. The blaze was so fierce that the large quantity of silver stored at the top of the wing ran down in molten streams. The family sent a Bristol silversmith to search the ruins and value the silver by the pound, which he did and promptly disappeared to America with a large part of it! The family still have some of that silver, all misshapen from the fire. The East Wing was rebuilt soon after the fire and The Castle has remained unchanged in appearance ever since.

Reverend Maurice’s son predeceased him so Reverend Maurice’s grandson, Maurice Fitzgerald Stephens-Townshend (1865 – 1948) inherited Castletownshend in 1872 when he was still a minor. In the 1890s, the time of the Wyndham Act, 10,000 acres were put up for auction. The current owners still have the auction books. It was purchased by Charles Loftus Townsend (1861-1931).

Nineteenth century staircase with barley-twist type balusters.  Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Young Maurice married Blanche Lillie Ffolliot. She was an only child and brought money with her marriage, and Maurice was able to buy back the castle. The castle passed to their daughter, Rosemarie Salter-Townshend. She began to rent out holiday homes in Castletownshend. Her husband, William Robert Salter, added Townshend to his surname. It was their daughter Anne who modernised the castle, putting in central heating etc.

We’ll have to book ourselves in for at least a week to browse the books! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “Full of character and old-world charm, The Castle offers a welcoming retreat from everyday life. There are lots of things to do in the local area, like whale-watching and kayaking. Or, you can simply rest and recharge your batteries in the unique surroundings. After enjoying a complimentary breakfast, stroll through the winding pathways of our historic grounds, discovering ivy-covered ruins and their stories along the way. Then, as the sun sets, sit out the front with a drink in your hand, watching the boats in the harbour sway gently back and forth.

While you are a guest in our family’s home, the only thing on your To Do list is to relax. We will look after the rest.

I can’t wait to stay here! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] The website adds that much has been written about the Townshend family and The Castle over the years, and this rich history is documented in great detail. An Officer of the Long Parliament, edited by Richard and Dorothea Townsend (London Henry Frowde, Oxford University Press Warehouse, Amen Corner, E.C.,1892) is an account of the life and times of Colonel Richard Townesend and a chronicle of his descendants.

[2] see Montgomery-Massingberd, Hugh. Burke’s Irish Family Records. London, U.K.: Burkes Peerage Ltd, 1976.

[3] p. 1035, volume 19, Stephen, Sir Leslie, ed. Dictionary of National Biography, 1921–1922Volumes 1–22. London, England: Oxford University Press.

[4] O’Hea O’Keeffe, Jane. Voices from the Great Houses: Cork and Kerry (Mercier Press, Cork, 2013).

[5] Keohane, Frank. The Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County. Yale University Press: New Haven and London, 2020.

http://castle-townshend.com/

Castle Townshend, County Cork, June 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We came upon the Townshend family when we visited Drishane, as the Somervilles nearby intermarried with their cousins the Townshends. See my write-up:

https://irishhistorichouses.com/2021/03/07/drishane-house-castletownshend-co-cork/

We visited the Castle of Castletownshend when on holidays in County Cork in June 2022. The Castle is a hidden gem, full of history. We definitely look forward to a return visit, to stay in the Castle.

The Castle, Castletownshend: A castellated house, consisting of two battlemented towers joined by a range with dormer gables. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The gardens and view from Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us:

In the picturesque village of Castletownshend, past ‘The Two Trees’ at the bottom of the hill, you’ll find our family-run boutique B&B. Nestled at the edge of a scenic harbour and natural woodlands for you to explore, The Castle is a truly unique place to stay. It has the warm, homely feel of a traditional Irish B&B, but with a few extra special touches.

Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The National Inventory describes: “Square-headed door opening to porch with stone voussoirs, label moulding and timber door with cast-iron studs, strap hinges and door furniture.” Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “Steeped in history, The Castle has been home to the Townshend family since the 1650s and has been receiving guests for over 60 years. Inside the old stone walls, you’ll find welcoming faces to greet you, roaring fires to warm you, and comfy beds to sink into. Each room has its own story to tell, with the oak-panelled hall and spacious dining room retaining most of their original features, furniture, and family portraits.

The website also explains the family name: “The family name has undergone several changes over the years. The original spelling was Townesend, which later became Townsend. In 1870, the head of the family, Reverend Maurice Fitzgerald Townshend [1791-1872], consulted with the Townshends of Raynham, Norfolk. Following this, it was requested that the whole family add the ‘h’ into the name. However, some families were quite content with the current spelling and refused to adopt the new one. This resulted in various different spellings spread across the branches throughout the UK, Ireland, Australia and Canada.

Much has been written about the Townshend family and The Castle over the years, and this rich history is documented in great detail . You can also read the book ‘An Officer of the Long Parliament’, which is an account of the life and times of Colonel Richard Townesend and a chronicle of his descendants.

The wood-panelled hall of the Castle in Castletownshend. The portrait of the children is of the children of Reverend Maurice Fitzgerald Townshend (1791-1872): Geraldine, Alice and Henry John. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us: “The building is in fact a 17th century castellated house, not a defensive castle from earlier times. It was built by Colonel Richard Townesend [1618-1692] towards the end of the 17th century, starting off as a much smaller dwelling. The first castle, known as ‘Bryan’s Fort’ [named after his son Bryan (1648-1726)], was attacked and destroyed by the O’Driscolls in 1690, and its ruins remain in The Castle grounds to this day. Richard then built a second castle, which is thought to be where Swift’s Tower still stands. 

In 1805 the floors were lowered to make the ceilings higher, a decision that left The Castle in ruins. However, instead of rebuilding it, the stone was used to add castellated wings to the dwelling on the waterfront. This became The Castle as you see it today.

Colonel Richard Townesend (1618-1692) gained the rank of Officer in the Parliamentary Army in the Civil War. [see Montgomery-Massingberd, Hugh. Burke’s Irish Family Records. London, U.K.: Burkes Peerage Ltd, 1976.] He fought in the Battle of Knocknoness, County Cork on 3 April 1648, where he commanded the main body of the Army under Lord Inchiquin. He handed the keys of Cork to Oliver Cromwell at Dungarvan after the Commonwealth was proclaimed. He held the office of Member of Parliament for Baltimore, County Cork, in 1661. In 1666 he acquired Castle Townsend. He held the office of High Sheriff of County Cork in 1671.

Jane O’Hea O’Keeffe tells us of the Castle’s builder, in her Voices from the Great Houses: Cork and Kerry (Mercier Press, Cork, 2013): p. 83. “In the late 1600s Richard Townsend, an officer in the Cromwellian army, acquired lands at Castlehaven in west Cork originally owned by the O’Driscoll clan. Richard Townsend also owned other lands in County Cork totalling over 6,540 acres. It was he who built the castle at Castletownshend, the centre portion of which still remains. The two towers at each corner of the castle today were added in the eighteenth century.

His son Horatio was in the navy and carried the Duke of Schomberg in 1690 to Ireland on board his sloop, who fought in King William’s army. Another son, Philip (1664-1735), became a Protestant clergyman and married Helen Galwey of Lota Lodge, Cork. It was his son Bryan (1648-1726) who was the successor to Castletownsend.

Jane O’Hea O’Keeffe continues: “Over the following centuries, members of the Townsend family served as high sheriffs of County Cork. In 1753 Richard Townsend was the office-holder and in 1785 Richard Boyle Townsend [1756-1826] was appointed to the position. In the 1870s Richard M.F. Townsend owned over 7,000 acres near Dingle in County Kerry, inherited from the FitzGerald family, Knights of Kerry. At that time, the estate of the late Rev. Maurice Townshend extended to over 8,000 acres in County Cork...” [10]

Colonel Richard Townsend’s son Bryan (1648-1726) was a Commander in the British navy and MP for Clonakilty. He married Mary Synge, daughter of Edward, Bishop of Cork, Cloyne and Ross in 1663 and they had many children.

Bryan and Mary’s son Richard (1684-1742) inherited Castletownshend , and was a Justice of the peace and high sheriff for County Cork. He married twice, first to another Mary Synge, daughter of Reverend Samuel, Dean of Kildare. His second wife was Elizabeth Becher from Skibbereen, County Cork.

Richard (1684-1742) and Elizabeth Becher’s son Richard also served as MP and high sheriff. He married Elizabeth Fitzgerald, daughter of John Fitzgerald, the 15th Knight of Kerry (d. 1741). His father was Maurice Fitzgerald, the 14th Knight of Kerry, and Elizabeth’s brother was Maurice the 16th Knight of Kerry – there is a portrait of a Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry, in the front hall, but I’m not sure which one is it. There is also a portrait of the Countess of Desmond, Katherine Fitzgerald (abt. 1504-1604), who lived to be over one hundred years old (some say she lived to be 140) and went through three sets of teeth. We came across her also in Dromana in County Waterford.

Richard Townsend (1725-1783), served as MP and high sheriff and lived at Castletownshend. He married Elizabeth Fitzgerald. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Catherine – or is it Elizabeth? – Fitzgerald, wife of Richard Townsend. Elizabeth Fitzgerald was daughter of John Fitzgerald (1706-1741), 15th Knight of Kerry, and married to Richard Townsend (1725-1783). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Maurice Fitzgerald, Knight of Kerry – I’m not sure whether it is the 14th or 16th and Countess of Desmond, Katherine Fitzgerald (abt. 1504-1604). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Richard Townsend and Elizabeth Fitzgerald had a son, Richard Boyle Townsend (1756-1826), who inherited Castletownshend. He married Henrietta Newenham. There is a fine portrait of their son Lieutenant-Colonel John Townsend, of the 14th Light Dragoons, who held the office of Aide-de-Camp to Queen Victoria.

Lieutenant-Colonel John Townsend (1786-1845), of the 14th Light Dragoons, Aide de Camp to Queen Victoria. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I think this is a portrait of Henrietta Newenham (1764-1848). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Lt-Col John Townsend died in 1845, and the property passed to his brother, Reverend Maurice Townsend (d. 1872). Maurice married Alice Elizabeth Shute, heiress to Chevanage estate in Gloucestershire. I think it must have been due to her inheritance that Maurice changed his name in 1870 to Maurice FitzGerald Stephens-Townshend (he was the one who added the ‘h’ in the name).

They had a son John Henry Townshend (1827-1869), who gained the rank of officer in the 2nd Life Guards. A fire occurred in 1852, during Reverend Maurice’s time in Castletownshend.

John Henry Townshend (1827-1869). Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Frank Keohane describes Castle Townshend in his Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County:

p. 314. “The Castle. A house of several parts, the seat of the Townshends. The earliest, described as ‘newly built’ in 1780 by the Complete Irish Traveller, is presumably the two-storey, five-bay rubble-stone centre block, with dormers over the upper windows and a two-storey rectilinear porch. Taller three-storey wings with battlements carried on corbelled cornices and twin- and triple-light timber-mullioned windows. The E. wing was perhaps built in the late 1820s; the W wing was added after a fire in 1852. Modest interior. Large low central hall with a beamed ceiling and walls lined with oak panelling and gilded embossed wallpaper. Taller dining room to the r., with a compartmented ceiling; a Neoclassical inlaid fireplace in the manner of Bossi, and a large Jacobean sideboard. C19 staircase with barley-twist type balusters. 

Octagonal three-stage battlemented tower, 60 m west of the castle.” [11]

The Jacobean sideboard in the Dining Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Neoclassical inlaid fireplace in the manner of Bossi. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Jacobean sideboard in the Dining Room. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The carving on the sideboard is incredible. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Nineteenth century staircase with barley-twist type balusters.  Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website tells us about the fire: “Disaster struck again in 1852 when the newly built East Wing went up in flames. The blaze was so fierce that the large quantity of silver stored at the top of the wing ran down in molten streams. The family sent a Bristol silversmith to search the ruins and value the silver by the pound, which he did and promptly disappeared to America with a large part of it! The family still have some of that silver, all misshapen from the fire. The East Wing was rebuilt soon after the fire and The Castle has remained unchanged in appearance ever since.

Reverend Maurice’s son predeceased him so Reverend Maurice’s grandson, Maurice Fitzgerald Stephens-Townshend (1865 – 1948) inherited Castletownshend in 1872 when he was still a minor. In the 1890s, the time of the Wyndham Act, 10,000 acres were put up for auction. The current owners still have the auction books. It was purchased by Charles Loftus Townsend (1861-1931).

Young Maurice married Blanche Lillie Ffolliot. She was an only child and brought money with her marriage, and Maurice was able to buy back the castle. The castle passed to their daughter, Rosemarie Salter-Townshend. Her She began to rent out holiday homes in Castletownshend. Her husband, William Robert Salter, added Townshend to his surname. It was their daughter Anne who modernised the castle, putting in central heating etc.

We’ll have to book ourselves in for at least a week to browse the books! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A map of the area of Castletownshend.
The map shows us 7. the fort which Colonel Richard Townshend built around 1650, which was probably the first castle of the area. It is now called Bryans Fort after the Colonel’s son Bryan who inherited the Castle Townshend estate in 1722. A second castle was then built, which now probably exists as the ruins called “Swift’s Tower” (8). The centre block of (1) was probably built around 1780, according to Frank Keohane.
“Swift’s Tower,” which may have been part of an earlier house. Jonathan Swift (1667-1745), author and cleric, travelled to the area and his poem “Carberiae Rupes” (Carbery Rocks) is believed to capture the view looking out from the West Cork coastline. One of the guest rooms in the Castle is named The Dean’s Room, as he was Dean of St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin, in his memory. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “Full of character and old-world charm, The Castle offers a welcoming retreat from everyday life. There are lots of things to do in the local area, like whale-watching and kayaking. Or, you can simply rest and recharge your batteries in the unique surroundings. After enjoying a complimentary breakfast, stroll through the winding pathways of our historic grounds, discovering ivy-covered ruins and their stories along the way. Then, as the sun sets, sit out the front with a drink in your hand, watching the boats in the harbour sway gently back and forth.

While you are a guest in our family’s home, the only thing on your To Do list is to relax. We will look after the rest.

I can’t wait to stay here! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castletownshend. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Castle Townshend, County Cork

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses.[originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978; Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.] 

p. 78. “[Townshend/IFR) A castellated house, consisting of two battlemented towers joined by a range with dormer gables. Panelled hall. The tower of the parish church rises picturesquely from among the trees immediately above the house, which stands on the shore of Castle Haven.” 

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

p. 314. The Castle. A house of several parts, the seat of the Townshends. The earliest, described as ‘newly built’ in 1780 by the Complete Irish Traveller, is presumably the two-storey, five-bay rubble-stone centre block, with dormers over the upper windows and a two-storey rectilinear porch. Taller three-storey wings with battlements carried on corbelled cornices and twin- and triple-light timber-mullioned windows. The E. wing was perhaps built in the late 1820s; the W wing was added after a fire in 1852. Modest interior. Large low central hall with a beamed ceiling and walls lined with oak panelling and gilded embossed wallpaper. Taller dining room to the r., with a compartmented ceiling; a Neoclassical inlaid fireplace in the manner of Bossi, and a large Jacobean sideboard. C19 staircase with barley-twist type balusters. 

Octagonal three-stage battlemented tower, 60 m west of the castle.” 

http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=C

Rev. Maurice Townsend held this property in fee at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £37. Lewis recorded it as the residence of Col. Townsend in 1837. In the later 1770s it was also the seat of the Townsend family. Wilson, writing in 1786, refers to Castle Townsend as the seat of Richard Townsend, “beautifully situated by Glandore Harbour”. In 1906 it was owned by Charles L. Townsend and valued at £53. In 1945 the Irish Tourist Association Survey dated the present structure to 1860 noting that the previous house had been badly damaged by fire in 1858. It is still held by the family and accommodation is offered in part of the property. See http://www.castle-townshend.com.   

or this? 

Sir Jocelyn Coghill was leasing this property from Rev. M. Townsend at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £22 10s   

or this? 

Mary Herbert was leasing this property from Rev. M. Townsend at the time of Griffith’s Valuation, when it was valued at £25. There were a number of marriages between members of the Townsend family and the Herberts of Muckross, Killarney.   

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20836017/castle-townsend-castletownsend-castletownshend-co-cork

Detached country house comprising five-bay two- and three-storey central block with projecting two-storey porch, built c.1650, flanked by two-bay three-storey crenulated tower to south-west with single-storey lean-to to rear and by single-bay three-storey crenulated tower to north-east, added c.1860. Pitched slate roofs having terracotta ridge tiles, rendered chimneystack and replacement cast-iron rainwater goods to central block, with decorative brick course and carved limestone finials to dormers. Rendered crenulated parapets to towers having limestone coping and bracketed eaves course. Crenellated parapet to porch. Red brick chimneystacks to rear block. Exposed rubble stone walls having red brick eaves course to central block. Rendered walls to rear of main block with remains of slate hanging to first floor. Square-headed window openings of varying size with stone sills throughout building. Six-over-six timber sliding sash windows with stone voussoirs to ground floor and north-east end of first floor, central block. Nine-over-nine timber sliding sash windows to first floor south-west end and three-over-six timber sliding sash window to dormer windows, having red brick flat arches to remain front elevation openings. Quarry glazed lancets to three dormers. Square-headed openings to porch, having stone sills, voussoirs and label moulding with paired one-over-one timber sliding sash windows. Paired and tripled timber sliding sash windows to towers, having stone voussoirs and overlights, with four-over-four pane to ground and first floors, and four-over-two pane to second floor. Four-over-four, two-over-two and twenty-over-twenty timber sliding sash windows to rear. Round-headed opening with timber sliding sash window to rear. Some recent uPVC windows to rear. Square-headed door opening to porch with stone voussoirs, label moulding and timber door with cast-iron studs, strap hinges and door furniture. Camber-headed door openings to former stable block with stone voussoirs and replacement timber battened and timber glazed single and double-leaf doors. Retaining interior features. Flat-roofed five-bay single-storey block to south-west with crenulated parapet, camber-headed openings and recent opening fittings. Ruinous remains of a star shaped fort and tower to north-east. Stone quay wall to sea front. Rubble stone enclosing walls to west and south-west. 

This fine building, located over looking the harbour, was once the focus of the surrounding area. The village developed around the castle, which was built and is still occupied by the Townsend family. The current building comprises several stages of construction with the central two-storey block forming its historic core, while the towers were added later, using stones from the ruins of an earlier castle. The ruinous remains of Swift’s tower and a star-shaped fort, both located to the north-east, contribute to its setting and context. 

http://www.astro.wisc.edu/~townsend/tree/home.php

Owners 

  • Colonel Richard Townesend [100] 1618(?) – 1692 
  • Colonel Bryan Townsend [200] 1648 – 1726 
  • Richard Townsend [201] 1684 – 1742 
  • Colonel Richard Townsend [213] 1730 – 1783 
  • Richard Boyle Townsend [219] 1756 – 1826 
  • Colonel John Townsend [230] 1789 – 1845 
  • Reverend Maurice FitzGerald Stephens-Townshend [231] 1791 – 1872 
  • (Geraldine Henrietta Townsend [252] 1829 – 1911) 
  • (Charles Loftus Uniacke Townshend [5C01] 1861 – 1931) 
  • Maurice FitzGerald Townshend [263] 1865 – 1948 
  • Rose Marie Salter-Townshend [269] 1917 – 2003 
  • Anne Marie Cochrane-Townshend [273] 1944 

Castletownshend is situated at the head of the sheltered anchorage of Castlehaven 6km to the southwest of Skibbereen (Sheet 89 map reference W183314). 

Whilst living at Kilbrittain Castle, near Courtmacsherry, Colonel Richard Townesend built extensively in Castletown, which subsequently became Castle Townsend and later Castletownshend. Firstly he built the Star Fort, later called Bryan’s Fort, in about 1650. The fort stood on a hill overlooking the anchorage in the sheltered part of Castlehaven harbour and was built for security rather than comfort; it was a square building, defended by a bastion at each angle, loop-holed for small cannon and musketry. 

Bryan’s Fort 
Photograph Copied from ‘An Officer of the Long Parliament‘ facing page 91 

Following this Colonel Richard built a Castle below the fort and a Dower House close-by, both of which were situated near the shoreline. Moving to Castletown in about 1665 and faced with unsettled times, he was frequently engaged in various armed skirmishes with Irish rebels. In 1690, under command of Colonel O’Driscoll, the rebels unsuccessfully besieged The Castle. Soon after, it was attacked again by about 500 of them led by MacFineen O’Driscoll and Richard was forced to surrender. He was subsequently paid £40,000 in compensation for the destruction of his home. The Castle that was built in place of the one destroyed was situated some 50 metres to the west of Bryan’s Fort. 

The Castle built to replace the one destroyed in 1690 
Artist’s Impression from ‘An Officer of the Long Parliament‘ facing page 108 

Colonel Richard’s eldest son John pre-deceased his father, thus when Colonel Richard died in September 1692 he left the majority of the Castletownshend estate to his grandson Richard FitzJohn Townsend [113]. When he died unmarried in 1722 his inheritance passed to his uncle, Colonel Bryan Townsend [200], by then an old man who died four years later. Probate on Colonel Bryan’s will was granted in 1727 and the estate passed to his eldest son, Richard Townsend [201], about whom nothing is known other than he was appointed a Justice of the Peace in 1715 and was High Sheriff for the County of Cork in 1726. 

Richard died in November 1742 and, when his wife Elizabeth died a year later, their children were left in the care of their Uncles Samuel Townsend [400], Philip Townsend [500] and Horatio Townsend [600]. The eldest son, Richard Townsend [213], inherited the Castletownshend estate when he came of age in 1751 and he did much to improve the village during his lifetime. In his book ‘Statistical Survey of the County of Cork’ (published in 1810) Horatio Townsend [5D00] wrote — “Castle-Townsend, the first and principal seat of the family, whose name it bears, was nothing more than a neat and well built village adjoining the mansion-house, on the west side, until improved and extended by its late possessor, Richard Townsend, Esq. a commissioner of the revenue, and many years a representative of this county in parliament“. Richard was High Sheriff for the County of Cork in 1753, a Justice of the Peace, Colonel of the County Cork Militia Dragoons, MP for County Cork and a Commissioner of Revenue. 

Richard’s eldest son, Richard Boyle Townsend [219] inherited the Castletownshend estate in 1783, the same year that he was elected MP for Dingle. Appointed a Justice of the Peace some ten years earlier and admitted a Freeman of the City of Cork in 1777, he was High Sheriff for the County of Cork in 1785 and was made a Freeman of Limerick in April that same year. In 1796 under threat of a French invasion Richard went to great expense to fortify Castletownshend and equip a flotilla to protect it. However foggy weather veiled the entrance to the harbour and the French fleet passed on to Bantry Bay. 

Some nine years later when their eldest son, Richard Townsend [229], died suddenly aged nineteen in 1805, Richard’s wife, Henrietta, felt that The Castle was not healthy – the ceilings were not high enough and it was decided to lower the floors. This done, the foundations could not take the strain and the house was a ruin. However, rather than re-build The Castle, the stones from the ruin were used to build castellated wings on the Dower House which then became The Castle and the family’s main residence; though Richard and Henrietta thereafter lived mainly at 8 Montague Square in London or at their house in Wiltshire. 

When Richard Boyle died in Dublin in 1826, the Castletownshend estate passed to his eldest surviving son, Colonel John Townsend [230], who left the management of it to his mother as he was away soldiering with his Regiment. Eighteen years later, whilst in command of the 14th Light Dragoons in India, he contracted ‘Indian ague’ and embarked for England in November 1844 in order to recover his health. Landing in January 1845, he died unmarried three months later at Castletownshend and the property thus passed to his brother, Maurice FitzGerald Stephens Townshend [231], who at the time was Vicar of St Mary’s Parish Church, Thornbury, Gloucestershire. 

Disaster struck again in 1852 when the newly built East Wing of the Dower House caught fire and the blaze was so fierce that the large quantity of silver stored at the top of the wing ran down in molten streams. Maurice sent a Bristol silversmith to search the ruins to value the silver by the pound, which he did and promptly disappeared to America with a large part of it! The family still have some of that silver, all misshapen from the fire. The East Wing was re-built soon after the fire and The Castle has remained unchanged in appearance ever since. 

The Dower House with castellated wings — now the present day Castle. 

An Officer of the Long Parliament‘ records that Maurice was “a ripe classical scholar of original wit and retentive memory” as well as being a benevolent landlord who did much to alleviate the suffering of his tenants during the years of famine. Whilst he took a great interest in the Castletownshend estate, his parish in Thornbury must have been his principle concern forcing him to leave the daily affairs of Castletownshend to an agent. His son, Henry John Townshend [251], who relinquished his commission in the 2nd Life Guards in 1857 might well have acted as his father’s agent. However he died in 1869, pre-deceasing his father, so when Maurice died in 1872 Henry John’s two sisters, Geraldine Townshend [252] and Alice Townshend [253], were left in equal share a ‘life interest successively’ in the Castletownshend estate which was entailed1 to Henry John’s eldest son Maurice FitzGerald Townshend [263], aged seven at the time. Geraldine, looked after the estate with help from her nephew Hubert de Burgh Townshend [264], who acted as her agent between 1891 and 1897. 

In 1894 a substantial mortgage, raised some years previously on the estate by her father, was ‘called in’ and Geraldine was unable to find the capital to pay it off, despite seeking assistance from other members of the family. Consequently, The Castle and estate were put up for auction on 25 June 1897 and most of the estate was sold, whilst The Castle itself and surrounding land was bought by Charles Loftus Townshend [5C01] for a reputed sum of £14,000. The houses in the village on the north side of the road leading up the hill from The Castle were retained by the family, which they continue to own and use to this day. Because of the entailment, ownership of The Castle had to revert to the younger Maurice FitzGerald Townshend, on repayment of the loan, and in the early 1900’s he regained possession of it, having repaid Charles Loftus. 

During the early years of the new century The Castle was left empty or let and Maurice himself lived variously in Schull, Castletownshend and Glandore before moving into Shepperton (see below) when he married in 1913. The 1901 Irish Census shows Sir John Coghill, a widower aged 75, was renting The Castle, living there with his son and daughter-in-law, his daughter, two grandsons, a nephew, a nurse and six household staff. Ten years later the April 1911 Census shows Sir John’s Coghill’s son, Egerton, had succeeded to the baronetcy and was living in The Castle with his family, a nurse, a governess and five domestic staff. Both the 1901 Census and the 1911 Census show that Henry FitzJohn Townshend [260] was the only member of the family living in Castletownshend at that time; he lived at Seafield. Seafield was previously owned by Henry FitzJohn’s father, John FitzHenry Townshend [250], Judge of the High Court of the Admiralty, Ireland and the principal contributor to ‘An Officer of the Long Parliament‘. 

Maurice remained at Shepperton until he was forced to move out during the Civil War (1922–23) for fear of his life. He and his wife went to England and in August 1925 were living at Freshford Lodge, Freshford, Somerset. When they returned later that year they found that Shepperton had been occupied by another family and so they moved into The Castle which by then had lain empty for many years. 

On the death of Maurice in 1948 The Castle passed to his only child, Rose-Marie Townshend [269], who in turn left it to her daughter Anne-Marie Cochrane Townshend [273]. 

Save for a few years at the end of the 19th century and despite many vicissitudes The Castle has remained as the principal family seat since about 1660. All four ‘sites’ of The Castle – namely Bryan’s Fort, now a ruin, the original Castle of which only the foundations remain, its replacement, of which nothing remains, and the Dower House (present day Castle) are situated within 100 metres of each other on four separate sites. 

1 The purpose of an entail was to keep the property and land of a family intact in the main line of succession. The heir to an entailed estate could not sell the house or land, nor bequeath it to anyone outside the family. 

In O’Hea O’Keeffe, Jane. Voices from the Great Houses: Cork and Kerry. Mercier Press, Cork, 2013. 

p. 83. In the late 1600s Richard Townsend, an officer in the Cromwellian army, acquired lands at Castlehaven in west Cork originally owned by the O’Driscoll clan. Richard Townsend also owned other lands in County Cork totalling over 6,540 acres. It was he who built the castle at Castletownshend, the centre portion of which still remains. The two towers at each corner of the castle today were added in the eighteenth century. He also built a church and the remains of its eastern gable may still be seen in the old graveyard at Castlehaven. The parish of Castlehaven lies in the East Division of the Barony of West Carberty. The place name is translated from the Irish Cuan an Chaislein, according to the Annals of the Four Masters

Over the following centuries, members of the Townsend family served as high sheriffs of County Cork. In 1753 Richard Townsend was the office-holder and in 1785 Richard Boyle Townsend was appointed to the position. In the 1870s Richard M.F. Townsend owned over 7,000 acres near Dingle in County Kerry, inherited from the FitzGerald family, Knights of Kerry. At that time, the estate of the late Rev. Maurice Townshend extended to over 8,000 acres in County Cork. 

From the late 1600s until the late 1800s, the Townsend family farmed or leased their lands in west Cork. Once the castle and the church had been built by Richard Townsend in the 1600s, houses began to spring up around them, and people moved to Castletownshend from Glenbarrahane, the original village at the mouth of [p. 84] Castlehaven Harbour, named for St. Barrahane. Traces are all that now remain of Glenbarrahane. 

According to Griffith’s Valuation (1848-64), Rev. Maurice Townshend owned property at Castletownshend, Myross, Castlehaven and Creagh. The Register of Landowners in County Cork 1876 records 8,665 acres in the ownership of Rev Townshend. Six years before, Rev Townshend had altered the spelling of his surname (adding an h) and requested that all his relatives do the same. Some did not comply.  

John Sealy Townshend, a descendant of the Castletownshend family, was one of the principal landowners in the barony of East Carbery at this time. In Samuel Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of Ireland it is written that Castletownshend was the residence of Colonel John Townsend in 1837. In 1874 over 100 acres of Samel Nugent Townshend’s estate in West Carbery were offered for sale in the Landed Estates Court, which allowed creditors of bankrupt estates to have properties sold to secure payment. In 1906 the property at Castletownshend was owned by Charles Loftus Townshend, from whom it was inherited by Maurice Townshend. 

We now move forward through the centuries to a bright spring day in April 1922, when William Salter, an industrious and prosperous Protestant farmer, was ploughing his fields at Kilronane near Dunmanway in west Cork. He was approached by members of the IRA and told that unless he left the area immediately, he would be shot. Before leaving, he asked that he might be allowed to see his wife and young son William in the farmhouse. His request was refused, so he untied his horse form the plough, secured him to a fence, and started alone on the long walk towards Cork. 

That cruel month of April 1922 had witnessed the killing of thirteen unionist Protestant civilians in the Bandon valley, and the abduction and disappearance of three British intelligence officers and their drivers in Macroom. There is an ongoing debate amongst interested parties on whether or not there was a sectarian element to those killings, two months before the outbreak of the Civil War. The first three people to be killed were widely believed to have been responsible for the shooting dead of an IRA officer, but as mystery surrounds the identity of the remaining perpetrators, their motives must remain a matter of  debate. Questions remain in relation to the motives for these deaths over ninety years ago in west Cork. 

[The family moved to England, and remained, farming in Cornwell, for two years. They sold the farm they had, but moved back and bought Castle Farm in Castletownshend from Edith Somerville and her sister Lady Coghill, in 1924.] 

p. 86. William Salter Townshend, of the family that moved to England, fell in love with Rose Marie Townshend, who lived in the castle. He was farming Castle Farm, his family was living in a house in The Mall in the village that belonged to Edith Somerville. Rose Marie’s parents did not think William was of the correct social class. So in 1938 they moved to England to marry. 

They returned home after her mother died in 1939. Her father, Maurice Townshend, was living in the castle. From 1929 the castle took paying guests. P. 87. By March 1946 Maurice was no longer able to run the business so he asked his daughter Rose Marie and her husband to move in to the castle and to take over.  

On her marriage in 1938, Rose Marie Townshend had become Mrs Salter. Before Maurice Townshend’s death in 1948, he had asked William Salter if Rose Marie could once again use her family name, to keep it in the castle. She was an only child and the family name would otherwise cease to exist. The young couple agreed, and from then on the family name became Salter Townshend. 

p. 88. William Salter Townshend was a very successful farmer. 

p. 90. William and Rose Marie raised five children. Their daughter, Anne Cochrane-Townshend, operates the successful hospitality business at the castle with her husband Malcolm Cochrane. Her brother, Robert Salter Townshend, also lives in Castletownshend and he explains that his house in the village appears on an Ordnance Survey map of 1750, marked as “the cottage.” It was one of the original cottages in the village and it, along with several others, were restored by Robert’s father William in his younger days. 

p. 91. Robert says, of Maurice, “My Grandfather Townshend, who lived at the castle, was a lovely man who got on very well wiht my father… He was very well liked locally and he considered himself one hundred percent Irish. He could speak Irish and was a good set-dancer. In the afternoons after school, I’d play around the castle with other local children. 

In my Townshend great-grandfather’s day, the family never worked much and my grandfather never worked at all. It’s impossible to live that way indefinitely, and in the late 1800s a lot of Townshend property was sold off. The properties the family now own are on one side of the village. 

Robert joined the Royal Navy…and later, when his mother was unwell, [p. 92] he worked alongside her at the castle, helping to run the business there. Later still, he set up his own tyre import and distribution business.” 

http://www.astro.wisc.edu/~townsend/tree/overview.php 

Overview of the Townsend Family 1650 – 1900 

Introduction 

It is 365 years since Colonel Richard Townesend arrived in Ireland with his Regiment in 1647 and 120 years since An Officer of the Long Parliament was published in 1892. As explained on the Home Page, this book is an account of the life and times of Colonel Richard and a chronicle of his family. Since publication, several generations of the family have entered the world and much new information has come to light that was not available to the editors of the book. There are now (2012) over one thousand individual entries on the Townsend Family website and, without reading them all, it is impossible to get a comprehensive overview of the family. This page of the website seeks to redress this by describing the fortunes of the family in Ireland between 1650 and 1900. Full details about any particular event or individual can be accessed in personal records. 

Settling down — Colonel Richard Townesend and his children 

Following settlement of the Catholic revolt in Ireland in 1652, Colonel Richard Townesend [100] retired from the Army sometime before 1654 and made extensive purchases of land; in all about 8,000 acres. On the restoration of Charles II in 1660 he was pardoned for his allegiance to Oliver Cromwell and escaped the forfeitures placed on many Cromwellian soldiers; his purchases of land were subsequently confirmed by royal patents in 1666, 1668 and 1680. Living for a time at Kilbrittan Castle, near Courtmacsherry, Richard finally settled at Castletownshend in about 1665. Appointed High Sheriff of Cork in 1661, he was elected MP for Baltimore in the Irish Parliament that same year but his appearances were infrequent and he was fined for non-attendance. 

From the time that he settled in Castletownshend until his death, Richard sought to consolidate his estates in County Cork and to lead the settled life of a landowner. However, those were troubled times, particularly after the accession of James II in 1685, and Richard was frequently engaged in armed skirmishes with Irish rebels. In 1690 they unsuccessfully besieged Castletownshend, but when they attacked again shortly afterwards Richard was forced to surrender. He was subsequently paid £40,000 in compensation for the destruction of his home as described in the page Family Houses

Colonel Richard’s eldest son, John Townsend [101], pre-deceased him so when Richard died in 1692 his estate passed to his grandson Richard FitzJohn Townsend [113]. Sadly, Richard FitzJohn died unmarried in 1722 and the estate passed to Colonel Richard’s second son, Colonel Bryan Townsend [200], who was born in 1648. Newly appointed a Colonel of Militia, Bryan had been proscribed as a traitor under the Act of Attainder in 1689 and forced to flee the country, along with his brothers, Francis Townsend [102] and Kingston Townsend [105]. However, he and Francis returned shortly afterwards but Kingston never did so, having fled to Barbados where he married and died in 1746. 

In 1690, after his brother Captain Horatio Townsend [104] brought the Duke of Schomberg to Ireland in the sloop Lynn, Colonel Bryan was at the Duke’s headquarters in Belfast, three weeks before William III landed in the province and six weeks before the Battle of the Boyne. In the years that followed this Bryan became involved in local governance; elected Sovereign of Clonakilty in 1693 and again in 1697, he was also elected MP for the Borough of Clonakilty in the Irish Parliament in Dublin in 1695. Aged 69, he last attended a meeting of the Clonakilty Borough Council in 1717 when his sons, Samuel Townsend [400] and Philip Townsend [500], were elected Freemen of the Borough. 

When Bryan died in 1726 he left the Castletownshend estate to his eldest son, Richard Townsend [201], having made ample provision in his will for his younger sons, all of whom settled in County Cork – John Townsend [300] at Skirtagh, Samuel Townsend [400] at Whitehall, Philip Townsend [500] at Derry and Horatio Townsend [600] at Donoughmore and it is from these sons that the five branches of the Townsend family derive. By this time the family was firmly established in County Cork and developments over the subsequent 200 years are typical of many other Protestant families who settled in Ireland in the latter half of the 17th century. 

Marriage and Kinship 

Between 1700 and 1900, 213 males and 237 females in the 3rd to 8th generations of the family reached adulthood and of these 163 males and 149 females married — 77% and 63% respectively. Living mostly in County Cork during these years, it was in these generations of the family that there was a high proportion of intermarriage with other Anglo-Irish protestant families. Whilst not unique during the 18th and 19th centuries in Ireland, of the adults who married in these generations, 37% of these marriages took place with just thirty-five other Anglo-Irish protestant families. In particular, there were eight marriages with the Somerville family, seven with the Becher family and at least three other marriages each with ten other families: notably Baldwin, Beamish, Daunt, Fleming, Hungerford, Meade, Morris, Newman, Robinson and Warren. In addition, during the same period, there were thirteen other marriages with cousins from ten other families and fifteen Townsend/Townsend cousin marriages. A separate page — Intermarriage and Other Families — shows just how interwoven all these families were. 

This intermarriage within the family and within the Anglo-Irish protestant community created a tightly associated but rather insular society. The diary of Agnes Somerville, wife of the Reverend Horatio Townsend [334], covers the forty-six years between 1845 and 1904 and reflects this social milieu. It contains well over one hundred entries about ninety-one members of the family from all five branches, along with notes about other Anglo-Irish families with whom they had close ties. This close association is reflected in family correspondence and shows that throughout and within all branches of the family in Ireland there existed a network of godparents, shared schooling, business associations, family networking, common interests and membership of various societies and clubs. The records of the Royal Cork Yacht Club afford an excellent example of this. Seventeen members of the family were members – where known, the names of their yachts are shown in italics 

  • Hon John FitzHenry Townsend [250] Growler 
  • Lt Col Henry FitzJohn Townsend [260] Alyn 9 tons 
  • Maurice FitzGerald Townsend [263
  • Capt Hubert de Burgh Townsend [264
  • Cdr Thomas Townsend [319
  • Edward Townsend [411] Blonde 29 tons 
  • Samuel Nugent Townsend [432] Caterina 56 tons (sank 1892) 
  • John Hancock Townsend [523] L’Eclair 32 tons 
  • William Tower Townsend [535] Linda 12 tons* 
  • Dr Richard Hungerford Townsend [5A02] Linda 12 tons 
  • Charles Uniacke Townsend [5C01] Bat 1 ton 
  • Horace Payne Townsend [5D12
  • George Chambre Townsend [5D33
  • Horatio Townsend [6B01] Pearl 14 tons 
  • Rev Thomas Townsend [6B03
  • Horatio Hamilton Townsend [6B05
  • Vice Adm Sir Samuel Philip Townsend [6C01

* Purchased from Dr Richard Hungerford Townsend 

If further evidence was needed to illustrate the closeness of the family, it can be found in the unpublished autobiography of the Reverend Edward Mansel Townsend [630] (1860–1947) entitled A Protestant Auto-Biography. His parentage is indicative of his extensive family contacts, as his mother, Marianne Oliver Townsend [5D16], came from the Derry branch of the family and his grandmother, Elizabeth Trelawney Townsend [410], came from the Whitehall branch. Space does not permit a detailed account of his visits to Ireland in 1882 and 1890; suffice to say, however, he visited Castletownshend, Myross Wood, Derry and Whitehall, calling on many members of the family who lived in County Cork in the twilight years of the 19th century, as well as several associated families. The overriding impression from the account of his travels is of a very close-knit family bonded by a common heritage. Sadly, since then, this close family association has largely dissipated through emigration. 

The inability to widen the marriage pool on social or religious grounds and the inability to provide a suitable dowry probably accounts for the consistently high number in each generation of those in the family who never married. Of those born in Ireland during this period on average 23% of men and 37% of women of never married. 

Politics, Local Government and Civic Appointments 

Throughout the first eight generations of the family many were involved in national and local politics as well as undertaking various civic duties. As touched on above, Colonel Richard and Colonel Bryan were the first two members of the family to be elected to the Irish parliament in Dublin. Sixty years after Colonel Bryan was elected, his grandson Colonel Richard Townsend [213] was elected MP for the County of Cork in 1759, 1761 and 1768. His son, Richard Boyle Townsend [219], was elected MP for Dingle in 1783 and 1790 whilst his brother, John Townsend [214] was also elected MP for Dingle in 1790 and MP for Castlemartyr in 1797. Like his father, Richard Boyle was a staunch Tory who refused to vote for measures which he felt were not in the best interests of Ireland. Not even the offer of an English peerage could bribe him into supporting Union with England, with the result that he lost the favour of his party and the Borough of Dingle was disenfranchised. He was, nevertheless, paid £1,500 in compensation. 

Between 1700 and 1900 forty-seven members of the family were appointed magistrates; thirty-three were elected Freemen of the City of Cork; sixteen were Poor Law Guardians and seven were appointed High Sheriff for the County of Cork. At a local level, several in the family became involved in the civic affairs of the Borough of Clonakilty. The oldest entry in the Council Book records the appointment of John Townsend [101] as Sovereign in 1675 and this was witnessed by his brother, Cornelius Townsend [108], who was a Freeman of the Borough. 

Trinity College, Dublin 

Special mention must be made about the family association with Trinity College, Dublin (TCD). The Reverend Philip Townsend [106] was the first member of the family to attend TCD and he graduated in 1689. Since then, a further sixty-three Townsends have studied there and several of them from various branches of the family were students concurrently. Between 1800 and 1900 there were only six years when a Townsend was not present at TCD and in sixty-two years of the century there were more than two members of the family ‘up’ at the same time. The most in attendance at the university at any one time was five in 1832 and in 1816 three of the four Townsends at TCD were named Richard! Between 1750 and 1900 there were only 19 years when the family was not represented at the university, whilst between 1813 and 1890 there was a Townsend represented there every year. 

Livelihood 

The Land 

Of the 213 adult males born in Ireland between 1700 and 1900 11% derived their livelihood from the land; for some it was a principal source of income supplemented elsewhere whilst for others the reverse applied. Richard Townsend [201], Samuel Townsend [400] and Philip Townsend [500] all inherited land when Colonel Bryan Townsend died and in subsequent generations these inherited estates were enlarged, either by purchase or marriage. Several deeds show that Philip Townsend bought land in the first half of the 18th century, but letters of his written in 1758 show that this expenditure put him into debt. Philip’s nephew, Richard Townsend [213], fared rather better, for when he married Elizabeth FitzGerald in 1752 she inherited her brother’s substantial Kerry estate. Richard’s great nephew, Richard Townsend [236], fared even better; when he married Elizabeth Mellifont in 1819, her dowry was £4,000 and she later brought to the marriage a total of £7,000 and estates in King’s County and Queen’s County on the death of her cousin John Sabatier in 1859. 

Others in the family purchased estates in their own right; John Sealy Townsend [507] bought the Myross Wood estate from Lord Kingston in about 1820, whilst Richard Townsend [6A00], Samuel Philip Townsend [6B00] and their descendants acquired considerable holdings of land in County Cork at Pallastown, Firmount and Garrycloyne. In addition to these estates many of the junior sons in each generation owned smaller parcels of land from which it was only possible to derive a small supplement to their income. 

The fortunes of those seeking to derive a living from the land were varied and are well illustrated by extracts from the book Statistical Survey of Cork by the Reverend Horatio Townsend [5D00], which was first published in 1810. Discussing horticulture, he wrote that Edward Mansel Townsend [401], the eldest son of Samuel Townsend of Whitehall, 

“is greatly proficient in this style of gardening. When hounds became a subject of heavy taxation, he wisely exchanged the pleasures of the chase for those of the garden. This he superintends himself with care as well as ‘con amore’, and for, I believe, a smaller expense than that of dogs, hunters, and their appendages.” 

Writing of Samuel Townsend [6B00] of Firmount, Horatio commented — 

“Agriculture was among his favourite pursuits, and, as few understood it better, I may perhaps have additional cause of regret in the loss of that friendly assistance so often heretofore experienced.” 

However, not all prospered; Cornelius Townsend [139] of Bridgemount tried to improve his land by introducing farming methods he had observed in Sussex and Horatio referred to this as — 

“an instance of the unfortunate result of injudicious enterprise…..the result was what might have been expected – ruin to the farmers, and very serious injury to the landlord.” 

By the latter end of the 19th century the family as a whole owned about 36,600 acres of land in County Cork; the principal owners were Jane, wife of Jonas Morris Townsend [222] 1,500 acres, Geraldine Townshend [252] 8,600 acres, Richard Mellifont Townsend [236] 5,900 acres, John Hancock Townshend [523] 6,000 acres, Horace Payne Townshend [5D12] 1,400 acres, Richard Horatio Townsend [6A10] 3,900 acres and John Crewe Townsend [6B04] 1,200 acres. 

Poor markets and other factors meant that deriving an income from land became increasingly difficult over the years, particularly after introduction of the Land Acts in the closing decades of the 19th century. Letters written by Commander John Townsend [622] and his wife Marianne Townsend [5D16] typify the situation faced by many in the family. The letters contain much detail about the financial problems they experienced on account of falling rents from their Irish properties as a result of the rulings by the Land Commissioners. 

The Land Acts and the activities of the Irish Land League led to both voluntary and compulsory sale of most of the land owned by the family at the end of the 19th century; part of Derry estate was sold in 1885 and most of the Castletownshend estate in 1897. The remainder of the Derry estate and the Whitehall estate were sold in the early years of the 20th century and the Myross Wood and Garrycloyne estates were sold in 1940. 

For those who could not derive an income from land, the options for making a living were limited to the armed forces, the church and the professions. Of the adult sons, about whom something is known, thirty-five joined the Royal Navy or the army, thirty were ordained, seventeen qualified as doctors, thirteen practiced law, eleven were land agents, four were university academics, forty-five emigrated and a very few fell on hard times, such as Bryan Townsend [323] of Crookhaven and his sister Anne Townsend [324] who lived in poverty but were helped out on a regular basis by other members of the family. 

The Armed Forces 

Of the thirty-five who joined the armed forces, many saw active service between 1750 and 1900 in various wars. During the Seven Years War Lieutenant General Samuel Townsend [403], the second son of Samuel Townsend of Whitehall, served with the Grenadier Company of the 19th Regiment of Foot at the Siege of Belle Isle in 1761; later, he was appointed Inspector General of Recruiting in 1776 and ADC to King George III in 1778. Captain Philip Townsend of Derry, of whom mention is made above, served with the 22nd Regiment of Foot at Louisburg and other battles in North America between 1757 and 1759, and many of his letters from this period are to be found in Chapter XI of An Officer of the Long Parliament

Commander John Townsend [316] saw action with the Royal Navy during the American War of Independence and was a member of the boarding party that captured the French flagship Ville de Paris at the Battle of the Saintes in 1782. He retired from the navy around 1800 and was appointed Recorder of the Borough of Clonakilty where his kinsman the Rev Horatio Townsend [5D00] was Sovereign at the time. 

Aged sixteen, Colonel John Townsend [230] took a commission in the 14th Light Dragoons in 1805 and fought in virtually every action with the regiment during the Peninsular War (1808–1814). He later commanded the regiment in England and India and was appointed ADC to Queen Victoria in 1841. 

Three members of the family saw action during the Crimean War. Commander John Townsend [622] was the First Lieutenant on HMS Himalaya escorting reinforcements from England to Sebastopol; shortly afterwards he left the Royal Navy and was appointed Commissioner of Public Works in Weston-Super-Mare. Major Samuel Philip Townsend [6B09] Royal Artillery, commanding a battery of nine-pounder guns attached to the 4th Division under Major General Sir George Cathcart, was killed at the Battle of Inkerman in 1854 and was Mentioned in Despatches posthumously by Lord Raglan. Vice Admiral Sir Samuel Philip Townsend [6C01], then Captain of the gunboat HMS Boxer, was twice Mentioned in Despatches for the part he played in raids at Gheisk and Glorifa. He later served as First Lieutenant on the royal yacht Victoria and Albert and completed his career as Flag Captain to HRH the Duke of Edinburgh on HMS Warrior

In the closing years of the 19th century Colonel Frederick Trench Townsend [524] 2nd Life Guards was wounded during the ‘Moonlight Charge’ by the Household Cavalry Regiment at Kassassin during the Egyptian Campaign of 1882 and was awarded the Khedive Star and Order of Osmania. Earlier in his career he travelled widely and wrote a number of books about his experiences in the Eastern Mediterranean, Florida and the mid-west of the United States of America, where he hunted bison. 

Major Ernest Townsend [536] Royal Engineers was Mentioned in Despatches during the Ashanti Wars 1894–1896 and six members of the family saw action during the Second Boer War 1899–1902. Of these, Captain Arthur FitzHenry Townsend [267] 4th Bn The Cameronians was Mentioned in Despatches and Captain William Pearson [5D35] was awarded the Royal Humane Society Bronze Medal for trying to rescue a soldier who fell overboard in Capetown in 1900. 

Whilst not strictly within the scope of this review of the family, mention must be made of the twenty-four who fought in the Great War 1914–1918. The Reverend Horace Crawford Townsend [643] Chaplain 4th Class and Captain Francis Horatio Townsend [6A26] Royal Engineers were both awarded the MC; Francis was also awarded the Croix de Chevalier and was twice Mentioned in Despatches. Major Edward Neville Townsend [6C19], The Duke of Wellington’s Regiment, was awarded the DSO and Captain Cyril Samuel Townsend [6C14] RN was twice Mentioned in Despatches. In his capacity as Chaplain of Christ Church, Brussels, the Reverend Horace Sterling Gahan, son of Frederick Beresford Gahan and Katherine Jane Townsend [638], administered the last rites to Edith Cavell the day before the Germans shot her in October 1915. 

Seven members of the family were killed in action during the Great War: 

  • Lieutenant Colonel Arthur FitzHenry Townsend [267]. Commanding Officer Royal West Kent Regiment. Battle of Flers-Courcelette 1916. 
  • Captain Samuel Edward Townsend [441] 16th Bn Australian Infantry. Gallipoli 1915. 
  • Commander Richard Townsend [5A11] RN. First Lieutenant HMS Invincible. Battle of Jutland 1916. 
  • Lieutenant Ian Vesey Townsend [5B32
  • Captain Dudley Ryder Townsend [5D36] 1st Bn Lancashire Fusiliers. Gallipoli 1915. 
  • Lieutenant Francis Townsend [6C33] Durham Light Infantry. Abbeyville 1916. 
  • Lieutenant Arthur Eric Townsend [6C34] Royal Flying Corps. 1916. 

The Church 

Most of those in the family who were ordained served in parishes in County Cork, where the Protestant Church was divided into three diocese — Cork, Cloyne and Ross. Many held the living of several parishes concurrently and the number of communicants in each was frequently less than ten. 

The Reverend Philip Townsend [106] was the first in the family to take Holy Orders and was the first member of the family to graduate from Trinity College, Dublin, as noted above. Following a short spell in the army as a Captain of Horse, he was ordained in 1706 and appointed Vicar of Holy Trinity in Cork in 1707, on the resignation of the Right Reverend Edward Synge, whose daughter, Mary, married Philip’s brother, Colonel Bryan Townsend. Philip’s nephew, Horatio Townsend [600] was the second member of the family to be ordained and he served his ministry as Rector of Donoughmore from 1737 until his death in 1772. His eldest son, the Reverend Edward Synge Townsend [601], who served in eight parishes in north County Cork between 1765 and his death in 1819, was the first of eleven of Horatio’s descendants to be ordained. This is closely matched by eight of John Townsend’s [300] descendants who took Holy Orders. 

There were several parishes where the family was represented for many years, the most notable of which was Abbeystrewry, near Skibbereen in the Diocese of Ross, where John Sealy Townsend [507] held the patronage of the living for many years. The Reverend Horatio Townsend [5D00] was Curate from 1770 till 1780 and was succeeded by the Reverend William Robinson who married Mary Townsend [314], the daughter of Horatio’s nephew, John Townsend [303]. William, later appointed Vicar of the parish, died in 1819 and the Reverend Richard Boyle Townsend [332] was appointed to the living in his place. Richard died of typhus in 1850 and was succeeded by his brother, the Reverend Horatio Thomas Townsend [334], who remained in the parish until he resigned in 1867 in favour of the parish of Kilcoe & Clear. Following a gap of twenty-nine years without family representation, the Reverend Horace Webb Townsend [634] was appointed Vicar in 1896 and remained in the parish until 1915. 

The parish of Aghada, near Cloyne, nearly matches this spell of ninety-seven years continuous family representation in one parish. The Reverend Doctor William Robinson Townsend [6B02] was appointed Rector in 1837 and, when he died in 1866, he was replaced by his nephew, the Reverend Thomas Townsend [6B19], who remained in the parish until 1903. 

The Reverend Horatio Townsend [5D00] (mentioned above) is perhaps the most notable of all those in the family who took Holy Orders, for, in addition to his clerical duties and his writing, he was tutor and agent to Richard Boyle second Earl of Shannon, who was the MP for Clonakilty and County Cork. Horatio inherited the Derry estate, built the fine house that still stands there today and had much local influence, which he employed with such benevolence that he was known as ‘The Friend of the Poor’. He exercised great authority in Clonakilty, where he was Sovereign for many years, and this helped to save lives during the Great Rebellion in 1798. 

Several of those ordained are notable for the good work that they undertook during the course of their ministry, particularly during the terrible potato famine of 1846–1851. Horatio’s son, the Reverend Chambre Corker Townsend [5D01], the Reverend Richard Boyle Townsend (mentioned above) and the Reverend William Robinson Townsend (also mentioned above) were all much involved in relieving the suffering of the poor. The Reverend Richard gave evidence before Parliament on the causes of the distress and toured England collecting money for those suffering. He founded a temporary hospital in Skibbereen and spent much of his time personally caring for those with typhus, only to die of that disease in 1850. The Reverend Chambre contracted scarlet fever in 1851 during his ministration and died in his lodgings in Cork, attended by his kinsman Dr Edward Townsend [6C00], whilst the Reverend William, averse to the giving of alms, promoted a range of schemes from drainage of marshland to the making of clogs and clothing in order to give people work. 

The Medical Profession 

Following graduation from Trinity College, Dublin, Doctor Richard Townsend [501] was the first member of the family to practice medicine. Starting in Cork, where he was also Surgeon to the Cork Union of the Protestant Militia Volunteers in 1778, he later moved to Dublin where he died in 1817. Qualifying at Trinity College in 1822, Doctor Richard’s grandson, Doctor Richard Uniacke Townsend [517], followed in his footsteps and established his practice in Cork before moving to Betsborough, near Mallow in 1839, where he died aged forty-three in 1843. In his day he was one of the leading authorities on chest diseases and was described by Robert Graham in his book A Scottish Whig in Ireland 1835–1838 as: 

“a very clever and scientific man and in great practice at Cove … Dr Townsend is very keenly engaged in preparations for the scientific meeting in Dublin, being one of the committee. He was in Scotland and Edinburgh several years ago and assisted Sir William Jackson Hooker in discovering a new moss somewhere in the highlands.” 

His son, Doctor Richard Newman Townsend [530], rowed in the University Boat Race in 1856 and graduated from Pembroke College, Oxford, in 1857. He was the Dispensary Medical Officer of Health in Cobh, Physician to Cobh Hospital, Surgeon Major to the Royal Cork Artillery and died of typhus in 1877, aged forty-two. Richard Newman’s first cousin, Doctor Richard Hungerford Townsend [5A02], qualified at Trinity College in 1869 and spent his whole life practicing in Cobh. He was a visiting surgeon at the General Hospital & Dispensary at Spy Hill and Port Officer of Health. In this latter capacity he ‘cleared’ the Titanic when she called at Cobh on her fateful maiden voyage in 1912. Richard Hungerford’s son, Doctor Thomas Henry Denny Townsend [5A10], qualified as an eye surgeon in 1899 and practiced in Cork until his death in 1957. 

This strong ‘Derry’ group of doctors in Cork was matched by another group of doctors from the junior branch of the family — descendants of the Reverend Horatio Townsend [600] of Donoughmore. Aged twenty-five, Doctor Edward Richard Townsend [6C00], the youngest son of Samuel Philip Townsend [6B00], planned to go to India on the East Indiaman Kentin 1825 but nearly lost his life when the ship caught fire and sank in the Bay of Biscay. Instead, he returned to Ireland and qualified at what is now the Royal College of Physicians Ireland in about 1830, after which he established his practice at 13 Morrison’s Quay, Cork and spent his whole life there. In addition to his practice he was Surgeon to the County Gaol, President of the Cork Library and President of the Cork Medico-Chirurgical and Pathological Society. His son, Doctor Edward Richard Townsend [6C04], qualified at Trinity College in 1857 and started practicing in Dublin before taking over his father’s practice in about 1871. He held several other appointments including that of Professor of Medicine at Queen’s College, Cork. 

Three of Edward’s seven sons qualified as doctors, but of these only Doctor Norman Ian Townsend [6C18] practiced in Cork, where he remained until 1921 when he emigrated to Shaftesbury, Dorset, on account of the ‘troubles’. Norman’s brother, Evelyn Richard Townsend [6C22] served two tours as a civilian surgeon with the army during the Second Boer War in South Africa 1899–1900. 

The Law 

John Townsend [300] of Skirtagh was the first member of the family to qualify in law in about 1720, but it is thought that he never practiced. His nephew and namesake, John Townsend [214], graduated from Trinity College in 1758 and qualified as a barrister. He was elected MP for Dingle in 1783 and MP for Castlemartyr in 1798, the same year that he was appointed ‘Commissioner and Overseer of the Barracks in this Kingdom’. A year later he was appointed a Chief Commissioner of ‘His Majesty’s Revenues of Excise and Customs in Ireland’. 

John’s grandson, the Honourable John FitzHenry Townsend [250], graduated from Trinity College in 1829, following which he studied at King’s Inn, Dublin, and qualified as a barrister in 1834. Appointed QC in 1865, Judge of the High Court of The Admiralty in Ireland in 1867 and a Bencher in 1877, John enjoyed a very successful career. In addition, he was the most prolific of all the contributors to An Officer of the Long Parliament. Almost his exact contemporary, John Sealy Townsend [333] qualified as a barrister in the same year as John FitzHenry and was also a major contributor to An Officer of the Long Parliament. At the time that these two ‘Johns’ qualified as barristers their kinsman John Sealy Townsend [507] was at the pinnacle of his career. Having gained a scholarship, he entered Trinity College in 1782 and was called to the Irish Bar in 1787. Appointed QC in 1819 and a Bencher in 1824, John was appointed a Master of the Irish Court of Chancery in 1826. As noted above, he acquired the Myross Estate from Lord Kingston in 1820. 

Little is known about the other members of the family who qualified in law but mention must be made of Horatio Townsend [623] and William Richard Townsend [6B31]. Horatio graduated from Trinity College in 1824, practiced in Dublin and was a great authority on the works of George Frederick Handel. William, following graduation from Trinity College in 1893, joined the Colonial Service and enjoyed a successful career in various legal appointments in West Africa. He was Attorney General of the Gold Coast (now Ghana) when he was drowned in 1917 after the Germans torpedoed the ship on which he was travelling in the Irish Sea. 

Land Agency 

During the second half of the 19th century of the eleven members of the family who were Land Agents, eight were from the ‘Derry’ branch. Charles Uniacke Townsend [5C00] established a Land Agency business in Dublin that by 1880 was managing substantial estates throughout Ireland. Secretary to the Royal Dublin Society 1887-93 and Vice-President 1893–1907, he was joined by his sons, Charles Loftus Townsend [5C01] and Thomas Loftus Townsend [5C02], who continued to run the business after he retired. Other members of the Derry branch who were Land Agents include — 

  • William Tower Townsend [535] of Myross Wood managed the Derry estate and was High Sheriff of County Cork in 1913. 
  • Robert Uniacke FitzGerald Townsend [531] who established his business in Cork with Samuel Hussey. 
  • William Uniacke Townsend [5B01] and his son Charles Eyre Townsend [5B14]; both were agents for the Mount Coote estate in County Limerick; 
  • Thomas Courtenay Townsend [5B02] and his brother William Charles Townsend [5B05] who established their own Land Agency in Dublin. 

Academia 

After attending local schools in Castletownshend and Skibbereen, the Reverend Richard Townsend [337], studied at Trinity College, Dublin and was the first member of the family to become an academic. He graduated in 1742 and spent his whole life teaching at the university: Junior Fellow 1845; Tutor 1847; Professor of Natural Philosophy 1870; Examiner in Mathematics and Mathematical Physics and Senior Fellow 1883. Ordained in 1860, he was admitted as a Fellow of the Royal Society in 1866. A year after his death in 1885 an exhibition called the ‘Townsend Memorial Prize’ was established in memory of Richard as an outstanding mathematician and is still extant. 

Shortly after Richard was appointed Tutor in 1847, Edward Townsend [6B20] was admitted to Trinity College to study civil engineering. Following his graduation in 1853 and his Masters in Science in 1856, he was appointed Professor of Civil Engineering at Queen’s College, Galway. His major legacy is that, in conjunction with John Henry Ryan, he designed the Galway-Clifden Railway. 

Edward’s son, Sir John Sealy Townsend [6B30], graduated from Trinity College, Dublin, in 1890 with First Class Honours. Disappointed at failing to gain a fellowship at the university, he entered Trinity College, Cambridge in 1895 as a pensioner. Under the guidance of Sir John Joseph Thomson he took up research on gaseous ions and in 1897 he became the first person to measure elementary ionic charge. Assistant Demonstrator at the Cavendish Laboratory at Cambridge in early 1900, he was appointed Fellow and Wykeham Professor of Experimental Physics, New College, Oxford later that same year. He was admitted to the Royal Society in 1903, appointed a Chevalier de La Legion d’Honneur in 1919 and knighted in 1941. 

On John’s arrival at New College, Oxford he was no doubt greeted by Richard Baxter Townsend [5D15] who had been appointed Tutor there in 1891. Richard, best known for his editorship of An Officer of the Long Parliament, had a most colourful career prior to his appointment at New College. In 1869, aged twenty-three and knowing that his inheritance would be small, he went to the USA to seek his fortune. He spent the next ten years in Colorado, Texas and New Mexico trying his hand as a cattle rancher, trader and gold prospector; on one occasion he was waylaid by Billy the Kid, but escaped unharmed. He returned to England in 1879 having made some money and, shortly afterwards, met Edward Elgar who, fascinated by the tales that Richard had to tell of his experiences in the West, dedicated the third variation of the ‘Enigma Variations’ to “RBT”. 

Others 

Too many to cover in detail the fortunes of some other members of the family are summarized below: 

  • Henry Owen Becher Townsend [223] 1780–1847. Landwaiter (Customs Officer) 1810. Secretary to the Commissioners of the Irish Fisheries 1820. 
  • Edward Henry Townsend [411] 1798–1857. Designer and builder of racing yachts. 
  • Henry Townsend [413] 1801–1872. Inspector of Constabulary 1st Class RIC. 
  • Walter Townsend [414] 1803–1869. Chief Inspector Coast Guard Service, Bantry. 
  • Samuel Nugent Townsend [432] 1844–1910. Traveller, writer and entrepreneur. 
  • Norman Townsend [5A03] 1846–1911. RIC and Resident Magistrate in Armagh. 
  • Richard William Townsend [5D03] 1811–1855. Civil engineer. 
  • Horatio Uniacke Townsend [5B00] 1816–1897. County Surveyor County. Laois. 
  • Geraldine Audrey Townsend [5C12] 1880–1950. One of the first women to study at Newnham College, Cambridge. Married the poet William Gibson. 
  • Henrietta Townsend [5D10] 1806–1877. Philanthropist. 
  • Isabella Frances Townsend [5D22] 1847–1882. One of the first women to attend Girton College, Cambridge. Died unmarried. 
  • Charlotte Frances Townsend [5D27] 1857–1943. Married George Bernard Shaw. Member of the Fabian Society and patron of the London School of Economics. 
  • Caroline Charlotte Townsend [5D31] Acclaimed stained glass artist. 
  • Edward Hume Townsend [626] 1803–1880. Indian Civil Service. Secretary to the Bombay Government and Revenue Commissioner to The Presidency of Bombay. 

Emigration 

From about 1835, many of the married younger sons in the 6th, 7th, 8th and 9th generations of the family found making any sort of a living in Ireland impossible and either emigrated overseas or moved to England (shown in red) as this chart clearly shows. The large increase in the number born outside Ireland (shown in green) in the 8th and 9th generations is mirrored by the decrease of those born in Ireland (shown in blue). 

The first to emigrate was Jonas Morris Townsend [237] who went to Australia in 1828 with his wife Mary Somerville, his brother John Henry Townsend [238] and assets totalling over £2,000. Their experiences are typical of many others who emigrated; granted 2,000 acres of land in New South Wales and some convicts to help them work it, Jonas and Henry raised cattle and cultivated wheat, maize and tobacco. After Henry sold his share in 1836 and moved to New Zealand, Jonas continued to farm until severe drought struck in 1847. Declared insolvent the following year, he was forced to sell and moved to Laguna where he turned to teaching and journalism. 

Over the next seventy years, forty-five other Townsend sons followed the example of Jonas and Henry; twelve emigrated to Australia, five to America/Canada, four to Rhodesia (as it then was) and the balance to England. In addition to the descendants of Jonas, a large number of those living in Australia today derive from Thomas Townsend [339] who emigrated in 1838 and farmed in Tasmania and Victoria for many years before finally settling in Corowa, New South Wales, where his brother Edward James Townsend [340], had settled in 1861. Edward Townsend [445] emigrated about 1850 and settled in New Brighton, near Melbourne, but it is not known what he did. Edward Carr Townsend [5A01] emigrated in 1867 and, after a colourful career with the mounted police in Victoria, finally settled in Sydney. 

Most of those in Canada and some in the USA trace themselves to Richard Townsend [335] and his wife Maria who emigrated in 1847 during the famine, having arranged to rent land at a township, near Stratford, Ontario. Richard and Maria were very poor and it was only through the good offices of Commander John Townsend [622] that they were able to pay for their passage. Sadly, they died from typhoid fever shortly after landing in Canada and their eight surviving children were taken into care. Their descendants in Canada derive from their son Henry Edward Townsend [3B05] and those in the USA from their son Thomas [3B09]. 

By 1901 the number of those in the family in Ireland was much reduced and the Irish Census for that year records only 80 adult Townsends living in the country as a whole, with just thirty-one living in County Cork. The Census of 1911 records only fifty-six living in all of Ireland as a whole, with twenty-one in County Cork. Today in 2012, spread across the world, there are about 115 descendants of Colonel Richard traceable through the male line; twenty live in Ireland and the remainder are spread between the United Kingdom (22), Australia (34) and Canada/USA (39). Sadly it is impossible to trace accurately descent from Colonel Richard through the female line. However, a reasonable assessment can be made from the 9th generation onwards and this effectively doubles the number of his descendants living today. 

Trouble and Strife 

From the time that Castletownshend was sacked in 1690 until the establishment of the Irish Free State in 1922, internal disturbance and rebellion were never far from the surface in Ireland. The driving force was Home Rule and freedom from the English yoke and, though this has been largely covered in the page Background History, some repetition is appropriate in order to put this page into context. 

After many years of rising unemployment, evictions, deprivation and rack-rents there was an agrarian backlash by the Catholic Irish poor in the second half of the 18th century. The first outbreak occurred in County Limerick in 1761 and escalated over the following years — men wearing white smocks, known as ‘Whiteboys’, attacked property and cattle by night. Appointed Colonel of County Cork Militia Dragoons in 1756, Richard Townsend [213] and his brother, John Townsend [214], were much involved in suppressing ‘Whiteboy’ disturbances. A typical incident in 1777 is described in Francis Tucky’s The City and County of Cork Remembered

“Richard Townsend, John Townsend, Samuel Jervois and Daniel Callaghan, magistrates, with several gentlemen of the county and their servants, well mounted and armed, set out at two o clock in the morning to the mountains above Bantry, in the neighbourhood of Murdering Glin and Glanunbannoul, where they apprehended several persons, charged with cutting off the ears of a horse.” 

When the French entered the war on the American side during the American War of Independence 1775–1783 British forces in Ireland were much depleted and this left the country open to attack from the French and vulnerable to disturbances from within. Fearful of this, the Anglo-Irish Protestants raised volunteer militias and six members of the family enrolled: 

The ‘Whiteboy’ violence came to a head in the Great Rebellion of 1798. Samuel Townsend [405] was High Sheriff of County Cork at the time and a large number of troops and Militia Dragoons were placed at his disposal to maintain order in West Carbery. In his own parish of Aughadown he managed to do this in co-operation with the local Catholic clergy in order to avoid the depredations perpetrated by the militia elsewhere in Munster. Meanwhile, Samuel’s cousin, the Reverend Horatio Townsend [5D00] managed to avert an uprising in the Clonakilty area through his influence with the native Irish. His brother, William Townsend [504], was a Captain of Yeomanry and acted as a guide to Major General John Moore (later Lieutenant General Sir John Moore of Corunna fame), commander of the British forces in the Clonakilty area. 

Further disturbances broke out in West Carbery during the early years of the 19th century and Samuel, no longer High Sheriff, was instructed to raise a small force of Yeomanry and was appointed Captain Commandant with his second son, Samuel Townsend [412], as his Adjutant. Having pacified the area, the Yeomanry was disbanded and their arms were stored at Whitehall. Fearing that this cache of weapons was an attractive target for would-be rebels, Samuel suggested to the authorities that his eldest son, Edward Townsend [411] should transport the arms to Cobh in his yacht Blonde. He was told that it was prohibited to do this except in a ship of the Royal Navy and that the Blonde would be confiscated if the arms were transported in her. On hearing this, Edward took the arms from Whitehall and dumped them in the sea; nothing was ever asked by the authorities about their whereabouts. 

Disturbances during the Land War in the latter years of the 19th century and the ‘Troubles’ of 1919 – 1921 forced some in the family to leave their homes, whilst others decided to leave Ireland and settle in England. It was a difficult time for everyone and memories are long; perhaps the following account of an incident at Myross Wood is a suitable note on which to conclude: 

“During the troubles in Ireland, my mother, her sisters and a governess were alone in the house. Sinn Fein were intent on destroying landlords’ houses round about, but spared Myross Wood because of their respect for my grandfather as a good landlord, and confined themselves to burning the stables, having first carefully removed the horses and the car.” 

http://www.astro.wisc.edu/~townsend/tree/intermarriage.pdf

The Baldwin family in Co Cork traces its origins to William Baldwin who was a ranger in the royal forests in Shropshire. He married Elinor, daughter of Sir Edward Herbert of Powys and went to Ireland in the late 16th century. His two sons settled in the Bandon area; the eldest brother, Walter, acquired land at Curravordy (Mount Pleasant) and Garrancoonig (Mossgrove) and the youngest, Thomas, purchased land at Lisnagat (Lissarda) adjacent to Curravordy. Walter’s son, also called Walter, was a Cromwellian soldier and it is through his son Herbert that the Baldwin family in Co Cork derives. 

The Barry family trace their origins to Sir Robert de Barri of Lismore who died in 1185. David Barry, 1st Earl of Barrymore and a direct descendant, married Lady Alice Boyle, daughter of Richard Boyle, 1st Earl of Cork in 1621 and left one son, Richard Barry, 2nd Earl of Barrymore whose second daughter, Lady Katherine Barry, married John Townsend, the eldest son of Colonel Richard Townsend. 

Amongst the list of English settlers in Ireland about the time of Queen Elizabeth I, appear the name of Beamish or Beamis. The lands granted to members of the family in Co Cork were confirmed to three brothers under an Act of Settlement by Patent in 1688. The Beamish family in Ireland derives from the second brother, Francis of Kilmaloda, an officer of the Bandon Militia in 1641, who married Katherine Bernard daughter of Francis Bernard of Castle Mahon in 1679. In the 1870s the Beamish estates in county Cork amounted to over 12,000 acres. 

Richard Beamish of Mount Beamish married Mary Townsend [111] in 1695. Francis Beamish of Kilmaloda married Mary Townsend [138] in 1784. John Beamish married Elizabeth daughter of Dr James Edward Somerville, grandson of Mary Townsend [506] in 1871. William Delacour Beamish married Gertrude Mary Fitzgerald Townsend [555] in 1902. 

Fane Becher, the third son of Henry Becher, Sheriff and Haberdasher of London, was granted over 12,000 acres in Co Cork during the reign of Elizabeth I. Fane’s grandson, Major Henry Becher, married Elizabeth Notte of Aughadown in 1636 and by her had a son, Colonel Thomas Becher of Sherkin Island and Aughadown, from whom the Becher family in Co Cork derives. He was an active, powerful man and his name features much in county Cork records. One of the richest men in the county with estates valued at £898 a year, he was aide-de- camp to King William III at the battle of the Boyne on 1st July 1690. 

Thomas Daunt of Owlpen Manor in Gloucestershire went to Ireland in about 1585 and took up residence at Britfieldstown House, near Robert’s Cove in Co Cork. In 1588 he leased Tracton Abbey, Co Cork from Sir Warham St Leger and the following year purchased the Gortigrenane Estate from him. It is from his son, Thomas Daunt of Gortigrenane, that the Daunt family in Co Cork derives. Several members of the family owned property in the Kinsale area in the 1870s. These included the representatives of Achilles Daunt with 2000 acres, George Daunt with 1000 acres and William Henry Daunt of Fahalea, with 1,372 acres. 

The Fleming family in Co Cork is of Scottish origin and there are many Fleming monuments in Glasgow Cathedral; the crest and motto borne by the Flemings of New Court, Skibbereen are included in the East window. According to the book ‘Pooles of Mayfield’ the Fleming family in Ireland derives from Tom and Lionel Fleming who arrived in Youghal in Co Cork in the early 17th century. Lionel reputedly was a friend of William Wrixon with whom he went to Skibbereen where he settled and acted as land agent to the Becher family. The ‘Newcourt’ Flemings derive from his son, Stephen, who married in 1675 Mary Becher, sister of Colonel Thomas Becher of Baltimore (see Becher above). By 1870 the Fleming estate in Co Cork amounted to over 3000 acres, principally in the parishes of Aghadown and Kilmoe, West Carbery. 

The Hungerford family traditionally claims descent from the Hungerfords of Farley in Somerset through Captain Thomas Hungerford. Thomas accompanied his relative, Colonel Sir 

Edward Hungerford of Farley Castle, on his expedition against Ireland in 1647 and subsequently purchased a number of estates. In 1674 he bought Rathbarry Castle from Edward Williams of Brechrock and the family remained there until Thomas’ son, Colonel Richard Hungerford, built a house at Inchydoney (The Island), near Clonakilty, which became the seat of his descendants. The Hungerfords married into many other influential families in the area including the Bechers, Jones’s and Daunts. Between 1852 and 1859 over 1600 acres of Hungerford land in East Carberry was offered for sale in Encumbered Estates Court/Landed Estates Court. 

The Meade family can trace its origins to Adam Meade who owned land in the area of Buttevant, Co Cork, in the early 14th century. Over the following three centuries several members of the family held notable positions in Co Cork, be it Mayor, Recorder, magistrate and latterly, Member of Parliament. In 1623 John Meade of Ballintober was knighted and it is from him that all subsequent generations of the family in Co Cork derive. He was succeeded by Lieutenant Colonel William Meade whose eldest son, John, was created a Baronet and was the ancestor of the Earls of Clanwilliam. In 1787 the Reverend John Meade, Rector of Ballymartle, near Kinsale, Co Cork, bought the estates of Ballymartle and Ballintober from his cousin John, 1st Earl of Clanwilliam. The family was the principal lessor in the parish of Ballymartle in the late 19th century owning over 2000 acres. 

The Morris family in Co Cork originates from Leebotwood in the Parish of Condover, Shropshire. It appears that the founders of the Irish branch of the family were two brothers, Captain William Morris and Jonas Morris, sons of Abraham Morris and his wife, Elizabeth. Captain William Morris of Benduff (Castle Salem) was granted almost 976 acres in the barony of East and West Carbery in 1666 and a further 234 acres were granted in 1669. Benduff was a Norman fortress, with walls eleven feet thick, situated in a secluded valley about a mile from Rosscarbery that formerly belonged to Florence McCarthy; a Roman Catholic rebel whose estates were seized by Cromwell. William’s great grandson, Abraham Morris of Dunkettle, was a successful Cork Merchant who purchased a considerable amount of land from the trustees of forfeited estates in the baronies of Barrymore, Duhallow and Muskerry. In the 1790s he was elected Member of Parliament for county Cork in a controversial election by which time he was well established at Dunkettle near Cork. In the latter half of the 19th century the Morris family owned 6,494 acres in Co Cork. 

Nothing is known about the origins of the Robinson family in Co Cork though, according to ‘An Officer of the Long Parliament’, they might be related to the Robinsons of Armagh. The earliest mention is that of the Rev William Robinson who was Vicar of Abbeystrewry, near Skibbereen, in 1781. His father, Rev Thomas Robinson, lived at Coronea near Skibbereen. George Robinson of Coronea, grandson of the Reverend William, owned almost 1000 acres in Co Cork in the 1870s. 

The Rev William Somerville, with his family, fled to Ireland in an open boat in 1692 to escape the persecution that was then being inflicted on the Episcopal Clergy in Scotland. The Somerville family of Co Cork are descended from William’s second son, Thomas, who was educated in Dublin and ordained. Following his curacy at Christchurch, Cork he was appointed to the livings of Myross, Brade and Castlehaven. The Somerville family lived at Castlehaven and in the late 18th century built a house on the present site of Drishane in Castletownshend. Colonel Thomas Somerville of Drishane owned over 450 acres in county Cork in the 1870s. 

The Trench family of Woodlawn, Galway is descended from Frederick Trench who came to Ireland early in the 1600s. Strategic marriages into the Warburton and Power families led to the acquisition of more lands in East Galway. Much of the Woodlawn estate was originally Martin and Barnewall lands which the Trench family purchased in the early eighteenth century. Five generations later, his descendant Frederick Trench was created Baron Ashtown in 1800 and by the end of the 19th century the family owned over 8000 acres in county Galway as well as land in seven other counties. 

Richard Townsend [513] married Helena Trench in 1827. She was the youngest daughter of The Hon and Very Rev Thomas Trench of Clenmalyre, Ballybrittas, Queen’s Co (Offaly), Dean of Kildare and younger brother of Frederick Trench 1st Baron Ashtown. Richard’s sister, Elizabeth Townsend [514], married Helena Trench’s brother, Richard Trench. 

Robert Warren, an officer of Cromwell’s Irish army, established himself in the East Carbery area of county Cork in the mid 17th century. In 1703 his son Wallis Warren bought Kilbarry, part of the confiscated estate of the Earl of Clancarty, and now known as Warren’s Court, Co Cork. His grandson Robert Warren of Warren’s Court was created a baronet in 1784 and his younger sons acquired 1700 acres of land from the Orpen family in the early part of the nineteenth century. Sir Augustus Warren’s estate in Co Kerry in the 1870s amounted to over 8700 acres and his estate in Co Cork amounted to 7,787 acres at the same time. His brothers owned a further 2,000 acres. 

Castlemartyr, County Cork – hotel

Castlemartyr, County Cork – hotel  €€€

Castlemartyr, courtesy of Castlemartyr Resort facebook page.

and Castle Martyr Lodges

https://www.castlemartyrresort.ie

Mark Bence-Jones writes in 1988 of Castle Martyr in A Guide to Irish Country Houses:

p. 72. “(Boyle, Cork and Orrery, E/PB; Boyle, Shannon, E/PB; Arnott, Bt/PB) Originally an old castle of the FitzGeralds, Seneschals of Imokilly, to which an early C17 domestic range was added by Richard Boyle, the “Great” Earl of Cork, who bought it from Sir Walter Raleigh, to whom it had been granted, along with other confiscated Geraldine estates. Having been damaged during the Civil Wards, it was repaired and made “English like” by Lord Cork’s third son, 1st Earl of Orrery, to whom it had passed; only to suffer worse damage in the Williamiate War, after which it was left a ruin, and a new house built alongside it early in C18 by Henry Boyle, who became Speaker of the Irish House of Commons and eventually 1st Earl of Shannon.

Richard Boyle, 1st Earl of Cork (1566-1643) Date c.1630, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
Castlemartyr, courtesy of Castlemartyr Resort facebook page.

Roger Boyle (1621-1679) 1st Earl of Orrery’s son Roger (1646-1682) succeeded as 2nd Earl of Orrery. Another son, Henry (1646-1693), gave rise to the Earls of Shannon. His son Henry (1682-1764) was created 1st Earl of Shannon.

The house was greatly enlarged by 2nd Earl between 1764/71, and further remodelled in late-Georgian period. While giving it an abnormally long facade, the subsequent additions did not take away from the house’s early C18 character, beign on the same scale and in the same style as the original building. Entrance front of two storeys and 17 bays, consisting of a five bay recessed centre with a giant pedimented portico between projecint wings, the forward-facing one bay ends of which are prolonged by a further five bays on either side. The ends of the projecting wings on either side of the centre are framed by rusticated pilasters, and formerly had Venetian windows in their lower storey, which have now been made into ordinary triple windows; there is also a rusticated pilaster at either end of the facade. The front is unusual in having three entrance doorways, of similar size, one under the portico and one in the centre of the five outer bays on either side; originally these doorways had plain architraves, but they were replaced by rusticated doorcases early this century. High-pitched, slightly sprocketed roofs. Irregular garden front; range of three bays on either side of a curved central bow, then a four bay range set slightly back with a balustraded colonnade of coupled Doric columns along its lower storey, then a range set further back again, of the same height as the rest of the facade but of one storey only, with three tall windows. Long, narrow and low-ceilinged hall with bifurcating wooden staircase at one end; late-Georgian frieze. A wide pilastered corridor runs from the staircase end of the hall, opening into a series of reception rooms along the garden front’ they are of modest size, low-ceilinged and simply decorated. In contrast to them is the magnificent double cube saloon or ballroom at the opposite end of the hall., which rises the full height of the house and is lit by the three tall windows in the single-storey part of the garden front. It has a coved ceiling with splendid rococo plasterwork in the manner of Robert West – birds, swags, flowers, foliage and cornucopiae in high relief – and a doorcase with fluted Ionic columns and a broken pediment. This room was one of 2nd Earl’s additions; it was finished by 1771, when it was seen by Arthur Young, who considered it to be the best room he had seen in Ireland. It certainly rates among the dozen or so finest Irish country house interiors; or anyhow whould have done when it had its chimneypiece and its original pictures and furnishings. The entrance front of the house overlooks a sheet of water which is part of the remarkable artificial river made ante 1750 by 1st Earl; it winds its way between wooded banks through the demesne and round the neighbouring town of Castlemartyr; broad and deep enough to be navigable by what was described in C18 as “an handsome boat.” The entrance gates from the town are flanked by tall battlemented walls shaped to look like Gothic towers; from the side they reveal themselves to be no more than stage scenery. Castle Martyr was sold early in the present century to the Arnott family; it was subsequently re-sold and is now a Carmelite College.” 

Castlemartyr, courtesy of Castlemartyr Resort facebook page.
Castlemartyr, courtesy of Castlemartyr Resort facebook page.
Roger Boyle (1646-1682) 2nd Earl of Orrery, Attributed to Garret Morphey, courtesy Bonhams 2009.
Mary Sackville (1637-1679), Countess of Orrery later Viscountess Shannon (d.1714) by Godfrey Kneller courtesy of National Trust Knole. She married Roger Boyle, 2nd Earl of Orrery.
Lady Mary Boyle nursing her son Charles, by Godfrey Kneller (1646-1723) Adams auction 18 Oct 2022. I think this could be Mary née Sackville (1637-1679) who married Roger Boyle 2nd Earl of Orrery. Her son Charles Boyle (1674-1731) became the 4th Earl of Orrery.
Henry Boyle 1st Earl of Shannon by Stephen Slaughter, in Ballyfin Demesne, courtesy of Parliamentary Art Collection.

Note that Henry Boyle (1682-1764), 1st Earl of Shannon, who owned Castlemartyr, also owned a townouse at 11 Henrietta Street in Dublin. See Melanie Hayes’s wonderful book The Best Address in Town: Henrietta Street, Dublin and its First Residents, 1720-80 published by Four Courts Press, Dublin 8, in 2020.

Henry Boyle, M.P. (1682-1764), Speaker of the Irish House of Commons, later 1st Earl of Shannon Date: 1742, Engraver John Brooks, Irish, fl.1730-1756 After Unknown Artist, England, 18th century, English, courtesy of National Gallery of Ireland.
Henry Boyle, 1st Earl of Shannon (1682-1762), Speaker of the Irish House of Commons, 1733 by William Hoare. Courtesy of Whytes.
Richard Boyle, 2nd Earl of Shannon by Arthur Devis, courtesy of National Museums of Northern Ireland.
Richard Boyle, 2nd Earl of Shannon (1727–1807) (Joshua Reynolds, 1759 or later).
Richard Boyle, 4th Earl of Shannon painted by a relatively little-known mid-19th century artist, the Hon Henry Richard Graves. Fota House, County Cork. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, http://www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

The fortified houses of the late C16 and early C17 constitute a bridge between the medieval tower house and the modern mansion. They were built by old Norman families, at Castle Lyons and Ightermurragh (Ladysbridge); by city merchants, such as the Archdeacons at Monkstown; by English settlers, at Baltimore, Coppinger’s Court (Rosscarbery) and Mallow; and by Gaelic chiefs, at Coolnalong (Durrus), Mount Long (Oysterhaven), Kanturk, Dromaneen (Mallow) and Reendiseart (Ballylickey). Twenty-two such houses survive in Cork. 

In comparison to tower houses, these houses are better lit, have thinner walls, lack vaults, and feature timber floors and staircases as well as integral fireplaces. They are also notably symmetrical in plan and elevation, and some, such as Kanturk, incorporate proto-classical features. They generally retain some defensive features, such as door yetts, gunloops, bartizans and crenellated parapets, [p. 18] although their wall-walks were not all continuous, and in cases such as Mount Long and Monkstown were barely accessible. The other notable feature is the use of towers or turrets, influenced no doubt by the Elizabethan fashion for a quasi-military appearance derived from an earlier chivalric age. The arrangement of the towers gives rise to distinctive plan-forms: U plan (Coolnalong), Y-plan (Mallow and Coppinger’s court), L-plan (Dromaneen (Mallow) and Mossgrove (Templemartin), cross-plan (Kilmaclenine, Ightermurragh), X-plan (Kanturk, Monkstown, Mount Long, Aghadown), Z-plan (Ballyannan (Midleton), and T-Plan (Reendiseart). Baltimore, Carrigrohane, Castle Lyons, Myrtle Grove (Youghal) and Castlemartyr aer simple rectangular blocks. A number of Jacobean bawns with circular corner towers also survive, at Ballinterry (Rathcormac), Dromiscane (Millstreet), Dromagh, Clonmeen (Banteer) and Mossgrove.” 

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

p. 27. Of mid-C18 Palladian interiors, good representative examples with panelled dados, lugged architraves, fielded panelling and chunky cornices are found at Coole Abbey House, Assolas, Cloghroe, Kilshannig, and Blackrock House. Curiously, the heavy Palladian lugged architrave remained in use in the county long after it fell out of fashion elsewhere. At Lisnabrin, Dunkathel, Burton, Rockforest and Muckridge, the form is encountered in late C18 Neoclassical interiors, suggesting an innate conservatism among local joiners. The finest joinery in most houses is reserved for the staircase, and in many cases these have survived. The best early C18 staircases, at the Red House and Annes Grove, have alternating barley-twist and columnar balusters, big Corinthian newel posts, ramped handrails and carved tread-end brackets. Mount Alvernia (Mallow), Carrigrohane and Cloghroe all have good mid-C18 staircases of a similar type; that at Lota is exceptional in its use of mahogany and for its imperial plan. Good Neoclassical staircases, geometrical in form with delicate ironwork balustrades, survive at Maryborough, Newmarket Court and Castle Hyde; the destruction of those at Vernon Mount is a particularly sad loss. 

The best early plasterwork is that of the Swiss-Italian brothers Paolo and Filippo Lafranchini at Riverstown, where highly sculptural late Baroque figurative ornament is applied to the walls and ceilings of the Saloon… Filippo alone decorated two rooms at Kilshannig, blending late Baroque figures with lighter acanthus arabesques and putti. Rococo plasterwork featuring scrolling acanthus and birds comparable to the Dublin school of the 1760s is encountered in the Saloon at Castlemartyr, and at Maryborough. At Laurentium (Doneraile) and the Old College (Youghal), it is rather more hesitant. For the most part, stucco workers remain anonymous, so it is a happy circumstance that Patrick Osborne’s accomplished work at the former Mansion House at Cork is recorded. He also probably worked at Lota, as well as at Castle Hyde. Good Neoclassical plasterwork in low relief and employing small-scale classical motifs of the type made fashionable by Robert Adam and James Wyatt is found at Maryborough, at Old Court House (Rochestown), and at the Old College and Loreto College at Youghal.  

https://theirishaesthete.com/2015/07/18/7055/

The castle from which Castlemartyr takes its name was likely built in the middle of the 15th century when the lands in this part of the country passed into the control of the FitzGeralds of Imokilly. For more than 100 years from 1580 it was subject to successive sieges and assaults; in 1581, for example, Thomas Butler, Earl of Ormond captured the building and hanged the ancient mother of John Fitzedmund FitzGerald from its walls. Castlemartyr became part of Sir Walter Raleigh’s estate which he then sold to Richard Boyle, first Earl of Cork in 1602. It is likely that the Boyles built the two-storey manor with tall gable-ended chimney stacks that runs behind the older castle. But the property had to withstand attack again during the Confederate Wars of the 1640s and once more in 1690, after which it was finally abandoned to become a picturesque ruin while a new residence went up on a site to the immediate west. 

[note from Jane Ohlmeyer, appendix iv, Richard Boyle in 1660 was Earl of Cork,  peer of townland Youghal.] 

http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=C

Seat of the Earls of Shannon in the 18th and 19th centuries, built in the early 18th century by the 1st Earl of Shannon and enlarged by his son the 2nd Earl in the 1760s. At the time of Griffith’s Valuation it was valued at £150. Sold to the Arnott family in the early 20th century, it later became a Carmelite college and now functions as a hotel.  

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20825002/capella-castlemartyr-house-castlemartyr-castlemartyr-co-cork

Capella Castlemartyr House, CASTLEMARTYR, Castlemartyr, County Cork 

Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.

Detached twenty-five-bay two-storey former country house, built c. 1730, enlarged and remodelled, 1764-71, various subsequent alterations, later used as convent and school, now in use as hotel. Comprising five-bay recessed central block with integral pedimented portico to front (north) elevation having ashlar Doric columns and rendered pediment, flanked by six-bay block to west and seven-bay block to east, with projecting three-bay and four-bay terminating blocks. Full-height bow and balustrated colonnade comprising paired ashlar Doric columns with rendered entablature to rear. Sprocketed hipped slate roofs with dressed limestone chimneystacks, cast-iron rainwater goods and render frieze and cornice. Lined-and-ruled rendered walls with rusticated limestone pilasters. Square-headed openings with cut limestone sills and six-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows, those to ground floor of bays flanking central portico having tripartite six-over-six pane flanked by two-over-two pane windows. Square-headed openings to front elevation with carved limestone Gibbsian surrounds, cornices and timber panelled doors. Carved limestone balustrade to front of main entrance. Retains interior features. 

Appraisal 

House is unusual in plan and elevation owing to alterations running over three centuries. Exceptionally wide front façade having rarity of three entrances. Variation in roof line adds interest to the façade, as too do well-executed pilasters and pediments. Built by Henry Boyle, Speaker of the Irish House of Commons, Ist Earl of Shannon, it was enlarged and remodelled in 1764-71 by the second Earl. The Ballroom completed in 1771, was described as one of finest rooms in Ireland by Arthur Young. Intricate and well crafted Rococo plasterwork adds much decorative interest to interior and is attributed to the Franchini brothers. Continues to have strong influence on local village. 

Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.
Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.
Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.
Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.
Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.
Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Natinal Inventory.

http://lordbelmontinnorthernireland.blogspot.com/2017/06/castle-martyr.html

THE EARLS OF SHANNON OWNED 11,232 ACRES OF LAND IN COUNTY CORK 

This is a branch of the noble house of BOYLE, Earls of Cork and Orrery, springing from 

THE HON HENRY BOYLE (1682-1764), second son of Roger, 1st Earl of Orrery, whose son, by the Lady Mary O’Brien, daughter of Murrough, 1st Earl of Inchiquin, 

HENRY BOYLE, of Castle Martyr, being sworn of the Privy Council in Ireland, filled some of the highest political offices in that kingdom (Speaker of the house of commons, Chancellor of the Exchequer, Lord Justice etc). 

He was elevated to the peerage, in 1756, as Baron Castle Martyr, Viscount Boyle, and EARL OF SHANNON. 

His lordship married firstly, in 1715, Catherine, daughter of Chidley Coote, of Killester, by whom he had no issue; and secondly, in 1726, the Lady Henrietta Boyle, youngest daughter of Charles, 3rd Earl of Cork, and had issue, 

RICHARD, his successor
Henry; 
William; 
Charles; 
Robert; 
Juliana. 

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son, 

 
RICHARD, 2nd Earl (1728-1807), KP, PC, who, having filled some high political offices, and being sworn of the Privy Council, was enrolled amongst the peers of Great Britain, in 1786, as Baron Carleton, of Carleton, Yorkshire. 

His lordship was a Knight Founder of the Most Illustrious Order of St Patrick, 1783. 

He wedded, in 1763, Catherine, eldest daughter of Mr Speaker Ponsonby, of the Irish house of commons, and had issue, 

HENRY, his successor
Catherine Henrietta. 

His lordship was succeeded by his only son, 

 
HENRY, 3rd Earl (1771-1842), KP, PC, who espoused, in 1798, Sarah, fourth daughter of John Hyde, of Castle Hyde, and had issue, 

RICHARD, his successor
Henry Charles; 
Robert Francis; 
Catherine; Sarah; Louisa Grace; Jane; Elizabeth; Charlotte Anne. 

His lordship was succeeded by his eldest son, 

The heir presumptive is the present holder’s second cousin, Robert Francis Boyle. 

CASTLE MARTYR, County Cork, was built in the early 18th century by Henry Boyle, Speaker of the Irish house of commons, afterwards 1st Earl of Shannon. 

The house was substantially enlarged by the 2nd Earl between 1764-71; and further re-modelled in the late Georgian period. 

The entrance front is of two storeys and seventeen bays, comprising a five-bay recessed centre and giant pedimented portico between projecting wings. 

The entrance front of the house overlooks a sheet of water which is part of the remarkable artificial river made before 1750 by the 1st Earl. 

Castle Martyr was sold early in the 20th century to the Arnott family; then became a Carmelite college. 

It now forms the nucleus of a luxury hotel resort.  

https://theirishaesthete.com/2015/03/11/flying-high-2/

More superlative rococo plasterwork by Robert West, this time in the double cube former ballroom of Castlemartyr, County Cork. The room was added to the existing house in the second half of the 1760s by Richard Boyle, second Earl of Shannon. The house remained in the family until the beginning of the last century and more recently has become a hotel. Anyone in the area should remember that at present this room contains many of the original Boyle portraits which formerly hung here and have now temporarily returned to their former home. 

https://www.castles.nl/castlemartyr-castle

Castlemartyr Castle lies in the town of Castlemartyr, in County Cork in Ireland. 

After James, Earl of Ormond, governor of Imokilly, appointed a local seneschal for the area in 1420, Castlemartyr was built to serve as the seneschals’ seat. 

It was captured by Sir Henry Sidney in 1569, after the garrison abandoned it during the night following an exchange of cannonfire. It was later granted to Sir Walter Raleigh only to be recovered by the seneschal of the time, John FitzEdmund FitzGerald, only to be attacked again in 1579 by the Earl of Ormond, who hanged John’s mother outside the walls. John finally submitted in 1583 and died in Dublin Castle in 1589. 

During the wars of the 1640s Castlemartyr Castle was captured by Lord Inchiquin but then fell to a raiding party led by Sir Percy Smith, who burnt the castle to prevent it being used as a base for the Irish Confederate forces. It was repaired in the 1650s and inhabited by Lord Broghill, later Earl of Orrery, until his death in 1679. During the civil war it was captured by the Irish, only to be retaken by the Williamites in 1690. This left the castle badly damaged and it was subsequently abandoned and fell into disrepair. 

During the 18th century the castle became a farm- and coachyard for a newly build manor to the west. In 2007 this manor opened as the Castlemartyr Resort, a luxury spa and 5-star hotel. 

Castlemartyr Castle was a roughly rectangular castle with a 5-storey square keep at its eastern corner. The large chimney stacks were part of a 17th century range built against the inner wall. There is a smaller tower at the northern corner of the enclosure. 

A nice castle ruin. It can be visited as a guest of the resort, although the interior of the keep itself can not be visited. 

Paddy Rossmore. Photographs. Edited by Robert O’Byrne. The Lilliput Press, Dublin 7, 2019. 

“As its name indicates, Castlemartyr was originally a castle, built around 1420 on the site of an earlier fortification on the instructions of James FitzGerald, sixth Earl of Desmond. During the rebellions instigated against the English crown by this family from 1569 onwards, Castlemartyr was occupied by John FitzEdmund FitzGerald but following his capture and subsequent death in 1589, all the land in this part of the country passed into the possession first of Sir Walter Raleigh and then of Richard Boyle, the Great Earl of Cork. He added a domestic range to the old castle, and following damage during the Confederate Wars of the 1640s, this was repaired and made “English like” by Lord Cork’s third son, Roger Boyle, first Earl of Orrery. Further damage was inflicted on teh building at the time of the Williamite Wars, after which the castle was left a ruin and a new residence built for the Boyles on a site to the immediate west. This was gradually extended during the eighteenth century, not least by Henry Boyle who, after serving for twenty years as Speaker of the Irish House of Commons, was elevated to the peerage as teh first Earl of Shannon. 

The facade of Castlemartyr is exceptionally long, of seventeen bays and two storeys, and centred on a five bay recessed entrace with a great pedimented portico. Inside, the house is rather plain except for a superb double-cube saloon added by the second earl soon after his succession to the title. It has a wonderful rococo ceiling in the manner of stuccodore Robert West. 

Castlemartyr was sold by the Boyles at the start of the last century, and for many decades was, like so many other country houses, used as an educational establishment by the CAtholic church. More recently it has become an hotel, the saloon converted into a bar. 

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/07/18/a-la-recherche/

Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Robert O’Byrne.

The Earls of Shannon are a branch of the Boyle family, descendants of Richard Boyle, the Great Earl of Cork. The title dates back to 1756 when Lord Cork’s great-grandson Henry Boyle, after a remarkably successful political career which saw him sit on the Irish privy council, serve as chancellor of the exchequer and Speaker of the Irish House of Commons for almost 23 years, was created the first Earl of Shannon. During that period and in the years prior to his death in 1764, he also found time to carry out many other duties, not least looking after the Irish estates of his cousin Richard Boyle, the architect Earl of Burlington, as well as his own property in Castlemartyr, County Cork.

 
 
 
 
For much of the Middle Ages, Castlemartyr was under the authority of the powerful FitzGerald family, who in 1420 were made governors, or seneschals, of Imokilly (a historic barony that covers a substantial area including Youghal, Cloyne and Midleton). Some twenty years later, Maurice FitzGerald chose to settle in Castlemartyr and erected a substantial tower here. Inevitably, such a prominent building was attacked on more than one occasion, being captured by Sir Henry Sidney in 1569 and again in 1581 by the 10th Earl of Ormond who is said to have hanged the mother of the castle’s owner,John FitzEdmund FitzGerald, from its walls. Although the building was restored and considered extended in the 17th century, further assaults occurred: it was burnt by Lord Inchiquin in 1645, plundered in 1688 and then stormed and burnt by Williamite forces two years later. Not surprisingly, the castle, or what remained of it, was thereafter abandoned and left to fall into a picturesque ruin. At some point in the early 18th century, the future first earl – whose family had been given the property in 1665 – embarked on construction of a new house to the immediate west of the old one, but little information exists about when this work started and what form it took. Further additions and alterations followed over the next two centuries, so that today Castlemartyr is long and low, the centre of the facade marked by a two-storey pedimented limestone portico with Tuscan columns, much the most satisfactory feature of the building. The entrance front likewise shows evidence of regular modifications being made, with a four-bay centre block, a nine-bay wing to the east centred on a bow, and a recessed four-bay block to the west; the loggia here replaced a conservatory in the early 1900s. The demesne was also extensively developed by the first earl and then his heir, the latter described by Arthur Young in 1776 as ‘one of the most distinguished improvers in Ireland.’ The grounds had been extensively planted with trees, some of which survive still, as does the ‘river’ which was created by diverting the Womanagh river to run through a channel cut west of its natural bed. 

In 1907 Castlemartyr was sold to the Arnott family, but was then acquired by another owner just a decade later, and in 1929 was bought by members of a Roman Catholic religious order, which used the house as a boarding school. This closed in 2004 and since then, further substantial additions have been made to the site which now operates as an hotel. 

Taken during the last decades of the 19th century, today’s photographs show the property as it looked when still owned by the Boyles. In the first group, the conservatory still occupies a site on the east side of the garden front, since it was only replaced by a balustraded loggia during the Arnotts’ short tenure. The pictures therefore provide an insight into the house’s appearance and character prior to the place changing hands and purpose several times over the past 115 years.  

Castlemartyr, County Cork, photograph courtesy of Robert O’Byrne.

https://theirishaesthete.com/2022/07/20/castlemartyr-interiors/

A Different Sensibility 

Jul20 by theirishaesthete 

 
 
After Monday’s post about Castlemartyr, readers might be interested in seeing some old photographs of the house’s interior when it was still owned and occupied by the Boyles, Earls of Shannon. The pictures date from the late 19th/early 20th century, and were taken by Nellie Thompson, wife of the sixth earl. The two above show the saloon as it was then decorated, filled with a vast quantity of furniture including a grand piano and a billiard table. The two below reflect the family’s travels overseas and what they had collected: prior to inheriting his title and estate in 1890, for example, the sixth earl had been living in Canada where he served as a Mountie. What most immediately strikes any viewer of these images is how dark and cluttered were the rooms, how filled with furnishings and fabrics, all competing and contrasting with each other. An insight into a different aesthetic sensibility from that of our own age. 
 

Ballyvolane House, Castlelyons, Co. Cork – section 482

Ballyvolane House, Castlelyons, Co. Cork section 482 €€€

Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London. 

p. 28. “(Pyne, sub Phipps/IFR; Green, sub Blake, Bt, of Menlough/PB) A Victorian Italianate house with a roof on a heavy cornice. Pillared hall. The seat of the Pyne family. Bought ca 1953 by late C.H. Green.” 

Tourist Accommodation Facility – not open to the public.

www.ballyvolanehouse.ie

Open: all year except Jan 1, Dec 24-31

They may give you a tour as entry price is listed: Fee: adult €5, family €15. Call in advance.

Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])

The website tells us: “Welcome to Ballyvolane House, a historic Irish country house of extraordinary warmth, style and comfort that provides luxury manor house accommodation, bespoke intimate weddings, glamping and private house parties/exclusive house rentals, located in the beautiful North Cork countryside of southern Ireland. Ballyvolane House is also home to Bertha’s Revenge Gin.

Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])
Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])

The National Inventory describes the house: “Ballyvolane House is a fine example of the Victorian Italianate domestic architecture, in this case being applied to a house which was originally a three-storey early eighteenth-century structure. The top storey was removed when the house was remodelled in 1847. The classically proportioned façade is enlivened by the decorative render dressings including oak-leaf brackets to the eaves, window surrounds and heavy continuous sill course. The porch constitutes the decorative focus of the house and is articulated by pilasters. The doorway is flanked by skillfully carved marble engaged columns with ornate foliate capitals which add further artistic interest to the façade. The block to the west was built to house the servants and is of a simpler design and treatment. This building, together with extensive outbuildings and walled gardens, adds valuable context to the site.

Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])

The website tells us about the history:

There is an inescapable air of frivolity at Ballyvolane – the name itself means ‘the place of springing heifers’ and is testament to the fertility, richness and natural diversity of the land on which the estate lies.

Originally built in 1728 by Sir Richard Pyne, a retired Lord Chief Justice of Ireland, Ballyvolane was designed in the classic Georgian country house style with three storeys An amorous descendent, Arthur Pyne, acquired sufficient capital from his marriage to three wealthy women to have the house considerably enlarged in the early 19th century.

The three-storey house was again modified in 1872 by George Pyne. He had the building pulled apart and then, by removing the top storey, recreated a two-storey house rendered in Italianate style, with an extensive west end wing.

Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])

The website continues: “Recent research carried out Terence Reeves-Smyth unearthed tender documents for the remodelling of Ballyvolane from this time – the architect was Richard Rolt Brash (1817-1876), a Cork architect, whose father and brother were well known builders in the city. RB Brash is better known as a very active antiquarian and friend of John Windele – he was especially interested in round towers.

The rebuilding/remodelling in the early 1870s followed the re-acquisition of the house and demesne by the Pyne family in 1869. Arthur Pyne (1747-1839) who probably built the present house around c.1800 and laid out the present parkland (which looks Regency in date), was succeeded by his eldest son Jasper Pyne. Unfortunately, when Jasper died in 1860-1 he left no male heirs and as a result his wife and daughters did not inherit the property (the estate had been left by his father Arthur entailed for a life and could only be inherited by male issue). Consequently, following a big court case in May 1861 the property passed to Jasper’s younger brother, the Rev. William Masters Pyne, Rector of Oxted in Surrey. In March 1864 the Rev Pyne put the place on the market through the Encumbered Estates Courts. It remained on the market until bought by another member of the Pyne family in January 1869.

It appears that Ballyvolane was originally purchased by Sir Richard Pyne in 1702-3 for £696; prior to this it had been the property of Sir Richard Nagle and Edmond Barry, but had been granted (forfeited lands) to Viscount Sidney. At the same time Sir Richard Pyne also purchased three other Co Cork properties from the Commissioners for Sale of Forfeited Estates; one was Blarney, the others were the estates of Ballinaneala and Ardra. He also in England bought Great Codham Hall in Essex, where the family continued to live well into the 19th century.

The Pynes built the present house and lived here until 1953, when it was bought by the late Cyril Hall Green (known as Squirrel Green) and his wife Joyce (née Blake), on their return from Malaya, where Squirrel had managed rubber plantations since the 1920’s. Ballyvolane was passed on to Squirrel’s son, Jeremy, who ran it as a mixed tillage and dairy farm until the mid 1980’s when it became one the founding members of the Hidden Ireland group, an association of town and country houses offering a unique and exclusive style of accommodation and chosen for their architectural merit and interesting characteristics.

Ballyvolane was managed as a successful country house bed and breakfast by Jeremy and his wife, Merrie until January 2004, when the reins were handed to his son Justin and his wife, Jenny. Justin and Jenny are experienced hoteliers having gained international management experience in some of the best hotels in the world namely Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong, The Legian in Bali, Jumeirah Beach Hotel in Dubai and prior to moving home, Justin was GM of Babington House (part of Soho House) in Somerset. Three generations of the Green Family now live at Ballyvolane.

Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])
Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])
Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])
Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])
Ballyvolane, County Cork, photo taken 2014 for Tourism Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool. (see [1])

https://www.geni.com/projects/Historic-Buildings-of-County-Cork/29338

Ballyvolane House Originally built in 1728 by Sir Richard Pyne, a retired Lord Chief Justice of Ireland. The house was designed in the classic Georgian country house style with three storeys. Jasper Pyne, acquired sufficient capital from his marriage to three wealthy women to have the house considerably enlarged in the early 19th century. The three-storey house was modified in 1847 by Jasper’s nephew and heir, George Pyne. Three families connected to Ballyvolane – the Coppingers (See Stephen Coppinger, of Ballyvolane) originally lived here in a much older building until the land was acquired by the Pyne family in the early 18th century. The Pynes built the present house and lived in it until 1953, when it was bought by the late Cyril Hall Green and his wife Joyce, on their return from Malaya, where Cyril had managed rubber plantations since the 1930’s. Ballyvolane was passed on to Cyril’s son, Jeremy, who ran the farm until the mid 1980’s when it became one the founding members of the Hidden Ireland group, an association of town and country houses offering accommodation chosen for their architectural merit and interesting characteristics. Also today a wedding venue 

In 1730 – Andrew St Leger and his wife, Jane rented the house from the Pyne family. The butler, Timothy Croneen, and a maid, Joan Condon, decided to murder the St Legers to rob them. Both were found guilty at their trial in Cork. Croneen was executed and a little later so was Condon. She was sent to a place not far removed from the scene of the killings and, being thought a witch, was secured to a stake and burned to death. Where she perished was later named The Hag’s Cross and is still marked as such on some maps. 

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

p. 45. Few significant country houses were built during the latter half of the C19. Most are of small to middling size, often with minimal Tudor or Italian trim. Unpretentious Italianate is found as Lissard (1854-5) near Skibbereen, Farran (1866) and Ballyvolane (1872) near Castlelyons. The finest of these Italianate houses is Montenotte House in Cork, with its double height top-lit cortile in the manner of Barry’s clubs in London. Lewis Villamy designed Lisselane (1851-3) near Clonakilty in a loose French-chateau idiom. Gothic houses are much rarer; exceptions include Dunboy (1866-70) near Castletownbere, a virtuoso Tudor Gothic house wiht mullioned-and-transomed windows mingled with Continental motifs in an assured and robust composition.  

p. 46. With its Scots Baronial stepped gables and corbelled tourelles, Blarney Castle House (1871-5) by the Belfast architect John Lanyon, is unique in Cork. The influence of Ruskin in both detailing and materials can be seen in a number of houses designed by William Atkins: Velvetstown, Ardavilling, and Parknamore. Lettercollum (1872) near Timoleague, by William H. Hill, and Thorncliffe (1865) at Monkstown, by Thomas N. Deane, are in a similar vein. After the 1880s major houses are rare, but there are good late C19 Jacobean interiors at Fota and Lota Lodge (Glanmire). 

The Edwardian Domestic Revival or Free Style, which favoured picturesque forms in brick and terracotta with gables, tall chimneys, tile-hanging, and mullioned and leaded windows, is generally confined to lodges, as at Castletownsend and Castle Mary (Cloyne), and to suburban houses in Cork city. Ashlin’s Clonmeen House (Banteer) is a rare country-house example. The Pavilion at Fitzgerald’s Park, Cork, is also Free Style and incorporates some Art Nouveau decorative elements. The last great country house to be built in Cork is Hollybrook Hall near Skibbereen, in a Free Style employing classical and rustic elements, with a wonderfully eclectic range of interiors. The garden buildings by Harold Peto at Ilnacullin were designed in a similar spirit.” 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20904517/ballyvolane-house-ballyvolane-co-cork

Detached seven-bay two-storey country house, facing north, being rebuild of 1847 of earlier three-storey house of 1728, itself on site of medieval house. Now in use as guest house. Flat-roofed porch to front. Flat-roofed single-bay two-storey addition to north end of west elevation links house to lower seven-bay two-storey block to west. Skirt slate roof to main block, with rendered chimneystacks moulded copings with render brackets and string course. Moulded render cornice with dentillated course below, moulded render string course just above window head level, connected to each other by ornate render brackets oak leaf motifs. Porch has moulded render cornice with render brackets and moulded render string courses below. Rendered walls with render quoins, and moulded render string course between floors also acting as sill course to first floor. Segmental-headed openings having moulded render surrounds with keystones and one-over-one pane timber sliding sash windows, having limestone sills to ground floor. Round-headed window openings to sides of porch, set into round-headed recesses, with moulded render archivolts, imposts and spandrels, moulded render panels below windows, flanked by panelled render pilasters with moulded render plinths, and having one-over-one pane timber sliding sash windows with render sills. Round-headed door opening with moulded render archivolt and engaged marble columns with vegetal capitals and moulded plinths, set into round-headed recess with moulded render spandrels, timber panelled door, fanlight, and limestone threshold. Segmental-headed door opening to rear having overlight and half-glazed timber panelled double-leaf door, with molulded render surround. Block to west has hipped slate roof with rendered chimneystacks, roughcast rendered walls, square-headed window openings with some two-over-two pane timber sliding sash windows with render sills, rest being replacement uPVC, and square-headed door opening with paned overlight and timber battened door, and square-headed door opening to west gable having timber battened door approached by flight of limestone steps. Timber game larder set on octagonal stone pier to yard, having timber louvered sides and timber louvered pyramidal roof with finial. Single-bay single-storey outbuilding to south-west having hipped slate roof, roughcast rendered rubble sandstone walls, square-headed openings with fixed timber window and doorway with dressed sandstone voussoirs and replacement timber door. Single-storey single-bay outbuilding having single-pitched slate roof to other side of small yard, yard being entered through camber-headed doorway having cut sandstone voussoirs. Roughcast rendered sandstone and limestone square-profile piers leading to courtyard, having doible-leaf wrought-iron gates. Roughcast rendered sandstone piers to road entrance, with cut-stone caps and roughcast rendered sandstone walls with render coping, and having ball-shaped wheel guards. 

Appraisal 

Ballyvolane House is a fine example of the Victorian Italianate domestic architecture, in this case being applied to a house which was originally a three-storey early eighteenth-century structure. The top storey was removed when the house was remodelled in 1847. The classically proportioned façade is enlivened by the decorative render dressings including oak-leaf brackets to the eaves, window surrounds and heavy continuous sill course. The porch constitutes the decorative focus of the house and is articulated by pilasters. The doorway is flanked by skillfully carved marble engaged columns with ornate foliate capitals which add further artistic interest to the façade. The block to the west was built to house the servants and is of a simpler design and treatment. This building, together with extensive outbuildings and walled gardens, adds valuable context to the site. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20904521/ballyvolane-house-ballyvolane-co-cork

Range of outbuildings to courtyard at Ballyvolane House, built c. 1780. Comprising north, east and south ranges with L-plan outbuilding. Walled garden to rear of south range and walled garden with outbuilding to east. Rubble sandstone walls with segmental-headed opening having timber battened half-door with cobbled ramp, leading to courtyard. Two-storey east range having six-bay ground floor and only one opening to first floor, with pitched slate roof, rubble sandstone walls with roughly dressed limestone quoins, and camber-arched window and door openings with roughly dressed limestone voussoirs. Multiple-bay two-storey south range having remains of pitched slate roof with bellcote to east elevation, rubble sandstone walls, camber-arched window openings with sandstone voussoirs, elliptical-arched vehicular entrance with dressed sandstone voussoirs and remains of timber battened door. Elliptical carriage archways leading to small rubble sandstone walled garden, having dressed sandstone voussoirs. Flight of sandstone steps to east elevation. Multiple-bay two-storey north range having pitched recently reslates roofs, roughcast rendered walls, camber-arched door openings with dressed limestone voussoirs and square-headed window openings with brick voussoirs. L-plan outbuilding having pitched corrugated-iron roof to west bay and single-pitched slate roof to north bay, rubble sandstone walls with chamfered corner to north bay, segmental-headed opening to west bay having dressed sandstone voussoirs and timber battened double-leaf doors, square-headed opening to west bay having rubble sandstone voussoirs and timber battened door. Rubble sandstone walled garden to east having roughly dressed sandstone quoins, having segmental-headed opening to west wall with dressed voussoirs and single-leaf cast-iron gate with flower motifs, segmental-headed arch to south wall with sandstone voussoirs, and two-bay single-storey outbuilding to north having brick extension to east, with pitched slate roof, brick chimneystack, rubble sandstone walls with roughly dressed sandstone and limestone quoins, and square-headed openings with replacement casement windows, and timber battened door. 

Appraisal 

The Georgian stables of Ballyvolane House are a fine example of a planned farm complex complete with walled gardens. These outbuildings are arranged symmetrically on a rectangular plan. High quality materials were used in their construction, enlivened by the use of dressed voussoirs to many openings. The south range retains its bellcote and an unusual flight of curving stone steps to its east elevation. The walled garden to the east retains its cast-iron gate with decorative floral motifs. The walled gardens and outbuildings serve as a reminder of the range of demesne-related activities once associated with country houses in Ireland. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20904520/ballyvolane-house-ballyvolane-co-cork

Single-arch bridge over irrigation channel, built c. 1850, having stepped weir to west. Roughly coursed dressed sandstone walls with round-profile limestone copings and square-profile limestone piers with domed caps. Dressed sandstone voussoirs to round arch. Rubble limestone walling to stream to west side. 

Appraisal 

This bridge is solidly constructed and high quality materials have been used throughout. The rounded copings and caps add decorative interest to the structure. The stepped weir is an unusual feature and adds further interest to the site. 

https://theirishaesthete.com/2016/01/16/attention-to-detail/

Viewing an old building, one is often so engaged absorbing the totality that details of design can be overlooked. How many visitors to Ballyvolane, County Cork, for example, pay much attention to the stairs? This house, originally built in 1728 by Sir Richard Pyne, was extensively modified in the second half of the 1840s by a descendant, Jasper Pyne. Evidently a new staircase was one of his additions but note how on the side of every tread is affixed a cast-iron putto in each of whose fists can be found a nail holding one of the balusters in place. 

http://www.turtlebunbury.com/history/history_houses/hist_hse_ballyvolane.html

Ballyvolane, County Cork, Ireland – The Place of the Springing Heifers  

Photographs by James Fennell. Published circa 2007, revised 2018. 

Maintaining a big Georgian Irish country house is a famously time-consuming business. Every day presents a new hazard – dry rot in the rafters, jackdaws in the chimney, slates sliding off a roof, the sudden emergence of a major fault-line in a bedroom wall. An owner will find a large portion of his or her life sporadically dedicated to righting these wrongs. Jeremy and Merrie Green were well aware of such pitfalls when they moved into the house which Jeremy’s father, Cyril Hall Green, a retired rubber planter from Malaya, had purchased in 1955.  

Located close to the village of Castlelyons in north County Cork, the original house at Ballyvolane (“the place of the springing heifers“) was built in 1728 by Sir Richard Pyne, a retired Lord Chief Justice of Ireland. According to Terence Reeve-Smith: ‘The property was purchased by Sir Richard Pyne in 1702-3 for £696. Prior to this it had been the property of Sir Richard Nagle and Edmond Barry, but had been granted (forfeited lands) to Viscount Sidney. At the same time, Sir Richard Pyne also purchased three other County Cork properties from the Commissioners for Sale of Forfeited Estates; one was Blarney, the others were the estates of Ballinaneala and Ardra. In England, he also bought Great Codham Hall in Essex, where the family continued to live well into the 19th century.’ Mr Reeve-Smith was unsure where this early 18th century house was located but he guessed that it was close to where the yards are now located and proposed that would probably been approached by a straigjht avenue from the west through what is now the walled garden. 

The present house is believed to be late 18th or early 19th century; it appears on an 1830s map. This probably took place during the ‘reign’ of Arthur Pyne (1747-1839) who also laid out the present Regency-style parkland gardens and pleasure grounds. He was succeeded by his amorous eldest son Jasper Pyne, who married three wealthy women; the stables are thought to have been built on his watch. It was formerly thought that the three-storey house was further modified in 1847. However, in May 2018, Terence Reeve-Smith revealed that the tenders for this rebuilding actually date to 1872, see below.  

When Jasper died in 1860-1, he left no male heirs so neither his wife nor daughters could inherit the property; the estate had been left by his father Arthur entailed for a life and could only be inherited by male issue. A big court case ensued in May 1861, by which the property passed to Jasper’s younger brother, the Rev. William Masters Pyne, Rector of Oxted in Surrey. In March 1864 the Rev Pyne put the place on the market through the Encumbered Estates Courts. It remained on the market until bought by a member of the Pyne family in January 1869. It was at this point that the building was remodelled; the top storey was removed to recreate a two-storey house with an extensive west end wing. Under the roof in the attic, the blue and white wallpaper can still be seen in patches on the wall of one of the third storey rooms. 

The architect was Richard Rolt Brash (1817-1876), of 21 South Mall, Cork City. This Cork architect whose father and brother were well known builders in the city. Better known as a very active antiquarian and friend of John Windele, R.B. Brash was especially interested in round towers. 

One perfectly sensible way of ensuring one’s home is kept in a state of good repair is to make the state of one’s house central to one’s business. It was with this sort of philosophy in mind that the Greens decided to take the plunge in 1980 and open Ballyvolane as a guesthouse. Soon after the doors opened, visitors began flooding in to set up short-term residence and enjoy the Green’s celebrated hospitality in between touring the locality and salmon fishing on the nearby Blackwater. However, the Greens were insistent that the house remain primarily a family home. And so, while international guests wandered around the house armed with fishing rods, large drinks and hire car keys, the Greens three young sons would gallop between their legs on hobby horses, hurley sticks and long-suffering Springer Spaniels. The combination of family home and exclusive accommodation worked well. In December 2003, Ballyvolane was selected by The Sunday Times as one of the Britain’s top twenty great escapes. 

The added charm of Ballyvolane is its owners. Jeremy Green acquires the fiery glint of an ancient shannachie when the subject of ghosts comes up. He has an arsenal of ghost stories; some charming and very funny, others spine-shiveringly spooky. A murder most foul took place at Ballyvolane in 1731 when the butler and a maid shot and stabbed Andrew St Leger, an elderly man, and his wife and made off with a chest full of valuables. It was said that an inconvenient gardener axed to death during their getaway is wont to appear before guests to this day. However, a dive into the archives in May 2018 reveals a little more: 

HOME AFFAIRS. Dublin, Jan. 19. We have an Account from Cork, that Timothy Croneen was condemned and executed there the 15th Inft. for the barbarous Murder ot Mr. St. Leger and his wife, concerning which in Court he made the following short Declaration, viz. “The Devil was too strong with me, I declare I shot Mr. St. Leger, I was resolved at first to rob my Master, I went into the Room, and afterwards I gave my Mistress five Stabs, the Gardiner consented to go with me and hold the Candle; I took about 20l, and the Watch out of my Master’s Pocket; After the Gardiner and I went to Bed I made the Agreement with him.” The Tryal lasted seven Hours, when his Bolts were knock’d off in the Dock, and he was carried immediately to the Place of Execution, and there hang’d about a Minute, then cut down, his Head cut off, his Bowels taken out and flung in his Face, his Body divided into 4 Parts, and to be put in 4 cross Roads ; and Joan Condon was fentenced to be burnt alive the next Day, but we hear she has got a Reprieve to the 23rd Instant. (Newcastle Courant – Saturday 13 February 1731) 

Joan Condon did not get off the hook: 

‘They write from Cork, that on the 23d of Jan. last, Joan Condon was burnt for being concern’d in the Murder of Lieutenant St. Leger and his Lady, without making any further Discoveries.’ (Newcastle Courant – Saturday 20 February 1731) 

And, as for the gardener, Michael B. Holly discovered this record of a “John Holly”: 

Dublin, Jan 16 (1730?) – Wee heard from Cork, that John Holly, the gardner, who was accused as being one of the accomplices in the murder of Lieut. Andrew St. Leger and his wife, November the 10th 1730, Died the 8th of Jan laft in the city goal of Cork.  

*** 

Since January 2004, the property has been managed by the next generation of the Green family: Jeremy and Merrie’s eldest son Justin and his wife Jenny. This enigmatic couple have already enjoyed a fascinating career, working for some of the most prestigious hotels in Hong Kong, Dubai and Bali. Prior to their return to Ireland last autumn, they ran Somerset’s highly acclaimed Babington House on behalf of London’s Soho Club. Now comfortably ensconced in the family home, their four-year-old son Toby gallivants around the legs of the Blüthner grand piano in the pillared hall, where his father and uncles used to play thirty years earlier.  

Today, the odd ghost aside, Ballyvolane and its surrounding demesne offer a sanctuary of immense peace and beauty. The spacious, bright bedrooms are perfectly appointed to bring a sense of tremendous ease to guests. Outside, the chorus of songbirds and the rustle of leaves. Donkeys and horses graze in the meadows. Kestrels and fantail doves swirl in the air. The occasional nimble-footed red squirrel leaps from tree to tree. And walking amid all this nature and serenity, one can quite understand why the Green family have every intention of keeping this a family home for many generations to come.  

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en/media-assets/media/104557

Essentially Irish: Homes wih Classic Irish Style. Josephine Ryan, photography by James Fennell. Ryland Peters & Small, London and New York, 2011.

p. 123. “It was back in the early 1980s that Jeremy and his English wife Merrie first opened their doors to paying guests, being two of the founder member of the Hidden Ireland travel company. …[ p. 124]Ballyvolane is now run by Justin, the oldest of Jeremy and Merrie’s three sons, and his Scottish wife JEnny. The couple both worked in the hotel and catering business and they met while working at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong. Upon returning to the UK, Justin and Jenny managed the hugely successful Babington House in Somerset before bringing their experience and expertise back home to Ireland in 2004.

p. 126. The house has 10 bedrooms, of which six are for guests.

p. 127. The name ‘chesterfield’ is believed to have originated in the 18th century, when the fourth Earl of Chesterfield, a man of great style and sophistication, commissioned a reknowned cabinetmaker to produce a piece of furniture that would ‘allow a gentleman to sit upright in utmost comfort.’

Guests have the freedom of relaxing in the bright orange, formal pillared entrance hall, complete with baby grand piano…p. 128. The orange entrance hall boasts fine plaster cornicing and a pair of columns with ornaments Corinthian capitals. The room was first painted this shade in 1847, when the house was remodelled, and it has been maintained ever since. The fire remains lit throughout the winter months…

p. 129. Leading to the bedrooms is the grand staircase, which benefits from a flood of natural light from the large window on the first return. Lining the walls are paintings inherited through Justin’s grandmother and depicting distant ancestors.

p. 131. Original to the house is this enormous, glazed white terracotta bath, with its highly varnished wood surround – it’s so deep that there is a step around the base to help you climb in.

A pair of headboards painted by Jane Willoughby with dreamlike utopian scenes..

Ballinterry House, Rathcormac, Co Cork

Ballinterry House, Rathcormac, Co Cork – accommodation

Ballinterry House, County Cork, photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.
Ballinterry House, County Cork, photograph from National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

 https://www.facebook.com/BallinterryH/

https://castlelyonsparish.com/who-i-am/accommodation/accommodation-2/

Ballinterry House Accommodation 
P: +353 (0)25 87835  or  +353 (0)87-6508555 
E: ballinterryhouse@yahoo.co.uk 

Frank Keohane writes in his Buildings of Ireland: Cork City and County that:

p. 21. “After the Williamite wars, landowners had the confidence to invest in their property and improve their estates, building new houses and offices, and creating enclosed landscaped demesnes. Of the minor gentry, most aspired to nothing more than a house that was solidly built, symmetrical and convenient. At first, middling houses were unsophisticated in their form and planning, often only one room deep but sometimes having a return containing a staircase or service rooms, thus forming an L-plan or T-plan. Steep gable-ended roofs were almost universal, hipped roofs and the use of parapets the exception. This arrangement continued throughout the 18th century for gentry houses, and well into the C19 for larger farmhouses. Early examples include Ballinterry (Rathcormac), Velvetstown (Buttevant), Rosehill at Ballynacorra (Midleton) and Aghadoe at Killeagh.” [9]

Mark Bence-Jones writes of Ballinterry House in A Guide to Irish Country Houses (1988):

p. 290. “(Barry/IFR) An early C18 house built on the site of a castle which in 1699 belonged to Andrew Morrough or Murragh, an attainted Jacobite; the house was until comparatively recently surrounded by old fortifications including four round towers, of which one and the fragments of another survive. Gable ended main block of two storeys with attic lit by windows in gable-ends; five bay front, originally seven bay, the windows on either side of the centre having been blocked up; presumably in the late Georgian period, when the other windows of the front appear to have been reduced in size and the interior walls rearranged. Simple fanlighted doorway. Original grass terrace with flagged pavement along front. Two storey return wing; central projection at rear of main block containing late-Georgian stairs with balustrade of plain sturdy wooden uprights. Stairs now open to hall; formerly separated from it by screen of C18 panelling with Gothic fanlight, now removed to first floor lobby of wing. Bought 1703 by the 4th Earl of Barrymore [James Barry (1667-1747)]; afterwards passed to the Ross family and then by marriage and descent to the Ryders and Henleys successively. From 1821 to 1862 the home of Archdeacon (“Black Billy”) Ryder, remembered for his part in the “Gortroe Massacre” in 1834, a tragic episode of the Tithe War. Ballinterry is now the home of Mr Hurd Maguire Hatfield, the stage and screen actor, who has carried out a sympathetic restoration of the house [who sold it to the current owners, Michael and Anne in 2007].” 

James Barry (1667-1747) Lieutenant Colonel and 4th Earl of Barrymore, National Trust, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons.

The interior extensively damaged by a fire in 1991. Michael and Anne bought the period propety as a restoration project and realised it would be suitable for taking guests. An article in the Irish Times on Oct 3 2013 by Ellen Lynch tells us about the renovation:

Michael and Ann spent three years taking up rotting floors, dismantling partitions, uncovering windows and other original features, and taking the house “back to the future” by renovating and modernising it in a way which was wholly sympathetic to its origins.  

In December 2007, without power and with no floorboards, the couple had no choice but to decamp with their young children to a cottage in outbuildings on the property. They moved back in during the spring of 2009.

They managed to complete the work with the help of a conservation architect and the encouragement and blessing of Cork County Council’s conservation officer, Mona Hallinan. The Georgian Society declared it one of the most sympathetic restorations they’ve seen.  

Ann credits Michael’s unerring eye for detail and his capacity for hard work in bringing everything together to make Ballinterry House what it is today – a splendid country house with a truly authentic feel.

Liss Ard Estate, County Cork, now a hotel

Liss Ard Estate, County Cork, now a hotel

https://lissardestate.ie

Liss Ard, County Cork. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We visited Liss Ard in June 2022, in order to see the Sky Garden by James Turrell. James Turrell is a “light artist” and a Quaker, and his works aim to cause contemplation. I was excited to see his work, and to see Liss Ard. The house has been converted to a hotel but still has the feel of a historic house, while at the same time being modern, stylish and spacious.

Liss Ard, County Cork, photograph by Robert French, (between ca. 1865-1914), Lawrence Photograph Collection, National Library of Ireland.

Upon our visit I learned that there is more to the gardens than the Sky Garden. The hotel is surrounded by miles of trails, which weave whimsically and which reveal magical settings with artfully placed walls and steps. It is also the site of a ring fort: the Irish “Lios Aird” means high fort.

The website invites us to “Escape to 163 acres of pristine nature with manicured gardens, a 40 acre private lake and James Turrell’s renowned Irish Sky Garden. The Estate features 26 unique guest rooms in the heart of West Cork, the culinary capital of Ireland.” For more about the Sky Garden and the garden trails, see my entry above, in Places to Visit.

We booked in for lunch, in order to make a booking to spend time in the Sky Garden. The house is two storey over basement, built in 1853. The National Inventory describes it as a fine early Victorian country house built by H.W. O’Donovan, who succeeded his brother as “The O’Donovan” in 1870. The Victorian Lake House, also available to guests, was built in 1870.

The garden front has a central canted bay. The inventory suggests that the house was reoriented and extended in the nineteenth century.

Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance reception at Liss Ard, June 2022. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard.
Sitting room in Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Two windows light the staircase – a large round one and an arched one and the upper hall has top-lit lantern ceiling.

Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There is also a library for guests.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

I did not take a picture of the restaurant as it is in the basement and is more modern. Despite being in the basement it is full of light.

The front porch containing the entrance. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The side of Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from Liss Ard.
A large cedar tree in the garden of Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Liss Ard estate is now a hotel, but you can book lunch and a visit to the Sky Garden, and wander around the gardens of the estate. The hotel is surrounded by miles of trails, which weave whimsically and which reveal magical settings with artfully placed walls and steps. It is also the site of a ring fort: the Irish “Lios Aird” means high fort.

The art dealers/collectors Claudia and Veith Turske purchased Liss Ard estate and in the 1990s and created public gardens with waterfalls, an arboretum with 10,000 newly-planted trees and had plans to create further land artworks after James Turrell’s installation, which was created in 1992. The property has since changed hands. It first came to my attention when a music festival was held in its grounds.

The website describes James Turrell’s The Irish Sky Garden

For over half a century, the internationally renowned landscape artist James Turrell has worked directly with light and space to create artworks that engage viewers with the limits and wonder of human perception. New Yorker critic Calvin Tompkins writes, “His work is not about light, or a record of light; it is light — the physical presence of light made manifest in sensory form.” ”

The Sky Garden at Liss Ard by James Turrell.

The Irish Public Art directory describes the Sky Garden:

The ‘Irish Sky Garden’ is a giant earth and stone crater embedded into the landscape of the Liss Ard Estate gardens. The artwork consists of an archway, a long megalithic-like passage, and stairs leading to an oval shaped, grass-lined crater, which measures 50 x 25 metres. In the centre of the crater’s ‘bowl’ is a large stone ‘vault purchase’ or plinth (not unlike an Egyptian sarcophagus). This is where the visitor should lie back and look at the sky, which is framed by the edges of the elliptical crater.

”The most important thing is that inside turns into outside and the other way around, in the sense that relationships between the Irish landscape and the Irish sky changes” (James Turrell).”

Entrance to the gardens of Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The “megalith-like passage” of the Sky Garden. I wonder did James Turrell visit Newgrange in preparation for his work? Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Entrance to the crater of the Sky Garden. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

It is impossible to capture the feel of the earth work creation in a photograph although the aerial view from the ‘myhome’ website gives us an idea.

The Sky Garden, Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This was my view when lying on the plinth. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
We wandered back up to the hotel by the garden trails. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Liss Ard. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

P. 188. “[O’Donovan/IFR] A long two storey early Victorian house, built ca. 1840 by H.W. O’Donovan, who succeeded his brother as The O’Donovan 1870. Entrance at end; fine rooms. Sold ca 1924 by Col. M.W. O’Donovan, The O’Donovan. In recent years the home of the late Captn and Mrs Richard Ansdell.” 

The Buildings of Ireland. Cork City and County. Frank Keohane. Yale University Press: New Haven and London. 2020. 

p. 45. Few significant country houses were built during the latter half of the C19. Most are of small to middling size, often with minimal Tudor or Italian trim. Unpretentious Italianate is found as Lissard (1854-5) near Skibbereen, Farran (1866) and Ballyvolane (1872) near Castlelyons. The finest of these Italianate houses is Montenotte House in Cork, with its double height top-lit cortile in the manner of Barry’s clubs in London. Lewis Villamy designed Lisselane (1851-3) near Clonakilty in a loose French-chateau idiom. Gothic houses are much rarer; exceptions include Dunboy (1866-70) near Castletownbere, a virtuoso Tudor Gothic house wiht mullioned-and-transomed windows mingled with Continental motifs in an assured and robust composition.  

p. 46. With its Scots Baronial stepped gables and corbelled tourelles, Blarney Castle House (1871-5) by the Belfast architect John Lanyon, is unique in Cork. The influence of Ruskin in both detailing and materials can be seen in a number of houses designed by William Atkins: Velvetstown, Ardavilling, and Parknamore. Lettercollum (1872) near Timoleague, by William H. Hill, and Thorncliffe (1865) at Monkstown, by Thomas N. Deane, are in a similar vein. After the 1880s major houses are rare, but there are good late C19 Jacobean interiors at Fota and Lota Lodge (Glanmire). 

The Edwardian Domestic Revival or Free Style, which favoured picturesque forms in brick and terracotta with gables, tall chimneys, tile-hanging, and mullioned and leaded windows, is generally confined to lodges, as at Castletownsend and Castle Mary (Cloyne), and to suburban houses in Cork city. Ashlin’s Clonmeen House (Banteer) is a rare country-house example. The Pavilion at Fitzgerald’s Park, Cork, is also Free Style and incorporates some Art Nouveau decorative elements. The last great country house to be built in Cork is Hollybrook Hall near Skibbereen, in a Free Style employing classical and rustic elements, with a wonderfully eclectic range of interiors. The garden buildings by Harold Peto at Ilnacullin were designed in a similar spirit.” 

Ballymacmoy, Killavullen, Co Cork – coach house airbnb 

Ballymacmoy, Killavullen, Co Cork – coach house airbnb

Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London. 

p. 24. “[Hennessy/IFR] A two storey late-Georgian house on a rock overhanging the River Blackwater. Entrance front of three bays and curved bow; Wyatt windows, subsequently reglazed with central mullions; fanlighted doorway now obscured by plain porch. Simple battlemented arch at opposite end of house. Hall with elaborate early to mid-C19 plasterwork; reeded cornice with rosettes, central oval of acanthus. Partly curving stair with slender wooden balusters at inner end of hall beyond arch with rope ornament. Fine doorcases with Doric entablatures and rope ornament on architraves. Cornices of oakleaves in drawing room and ante room. Bow-ended ballroom with higher ceiling than the other principal rooms and simpler and presumably earlier C19 plasterwork; oval moulding in centre of ceiling, with flat pan pendentives at corners. Fluted pilasters on walls. Oak chimneypiece in the “Arts and Crafts” style, with overmantel incorporating needlework panel, carved in 1905 by Harriette, widow of J.W. Hennessy. There is a similar oak fireplace in the dining-room, which has been entirely done over in Edwardian Tudor; with a beamed ceiling, timber-studded walls and painted coat-of-arms. Sold 1932 by Mr. C.J. Hennessy to his kinsman, the late Monsieur J.R. Hennessy, of La Billarderie, Cognac. Recently tenanted by Mr. Ian Sherriff, who ran it as a guest house.” 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/20812004/ballymacmoy-house-ballymacmoy-killavullen-co-cork

Detached five-bay two-storey house, built 1818, southern two-bay bow-fronted part being later addition, and having full-height single-bay return to rear, and flat-roof porch. Hipped slate roof having rendered chimneystacks, clay chimneypots and cast-iron rainwater goods. Painted roughcast rendered walls. Square-headed openings having two-over-two mainly double timber sliding sash windows, being single to front of bow, with limestone sills. Square-headed door openings to ground floor of bow, having double-leaf glazed timber doors with divided overlights, south side door also having sidelights. Porch has square-headed window openings with tripartite multiple-pane and six-over-six pane timber sliding sash windows, with limestone sills, and having double-leaf timber panelled door. Segmental archway to yard at rear, with crenellated parapet and double-leaf wrought-iron gates. Outbuilding to south side of yard with pitched slate roof, painted random rubble limestone walls, wrought-iron fire escape and square-headed openings having timber casement windows and timber doors. 

This country house was built in 1810 by James Hennessy, of the Cognac-producing family, as a present to his wife, Eliza Burke. The bow makes an interesting addition to this late Georgian house, as it was added later to cater for a ballroom. The house retains many original internal and external features, such as the slate roof, chimney pots, windows, timber floors and doors. It is further enhanced by its setting, atop a cliff overlooking the River Blackwater, and enjoys commanding views over the surrounding countryside. 

http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=B

The Hennessys were settled at Ballymacmoy from the mid 18th century. In 1786 Wilson refers to “Ballymacboy” as the seat of Mr. Hennessy. A new house was built circa 1820s. By the time of Griffith’s Valuation the Hennessy home was valued at £13.5 shillings and was held in fee by James Hennessy. He also owned a flour mill valued at £70 which he leased to Henry B. Foote. This house was still a Hennessy home in the 20th century and the house is still extant.   

https://theirishaesthete.com/2015/11/21/7591/

The generous proportions of the front door in the entrance hall at Ballymacmoy, County Cork. Since the early 18th century the house has been home to successive generations of Hennessys, one of whom Richard emigrated to France where he became an officer in the famous Dillon’s Regiment before settling in the Cognac region and founding the eponymous family firm. The present building dates from the second decade of the 19th century, replacing an older property when its excessively heavy slates caused the roof to collapse, killing a pig and a goose, and injuring a beggar who unfortunately happened just then to call to the door. 

https://thecoachhouseatballymacmoy.weebly.com/ballymacmoy-house.html

Ballymacmoy is the estate of origin of the wild geese family, the Hennessy’s of Cognac and is still owned and inhabited by their descendants.  40 kilometres from Cork International Airport, Ballymacmoy is a 23 acre estate located at the edge of the little village of Killavullen (200 inhabitants).  It is made up of grasslands and wooded areas with 3.5 miles of exclusive fishing rights along the Blackwater river, it includes a 1 acre walled garden and a unique prehistoric private cave reserved for guests. 
 
Built on a rocky promontory over the river Blackwater, this listed Regency house has been fully refurbished in 2008/2009 and has recovered its past character in full modern comfort with a combination of new and family furniture.  Three double bedrooms and two twin bedrooms, all ensuite, on the first floor overlook the river, the mountains, the village or the estate.  On the ground floor a library leads to a large living room opening on to the river.  Also on the ground floor, the bar leads to a large dining room. The kitchen is very central and is fully equipped with new and modern kitchenware and electric appliances . 
 
The house is offered on a self catering basis for one week periods or 2/3 days all year long.  Guests can use the recently refurbished kitchen for lunch and dinner or may on request receive catered lunches and dinners. 

Lough Rynn Castle, Mohill, Co Leitrim

Lough Rynn Castle, Mohill, Co Leitrim

https://www.loughrynn.ie/

Loughrynn, photograph courtesy of hotel website.

The website tells us:

Lough Rynn Castle Hotel Estate & Gardens is one of the top luxury castle hotels to stay in. Located in County Leitrim, Lough Rynn Castle exceeds expectations as one of the most preferred hotels in Ireland.

It is the ancestral home of the Clements family and the legendary Lord Leitrim. Our magical Irish castle hotel has been transformed from an incredible ancestral home into a place where old world elegance mixes seamlessly with unimaginable modern hotel luxury.

Staying in a luxurious Castle Hotel in Ireland is a once in a lifetime experience and one that deserves to take place at a location full of history, luxury and charm. Take a step back in time as you approach imposing entrances at Lough Rynn Castle which offers acres of breathtaking scenery, historical sites and walled gardens. Our entire Irish castle hotel’s estate comprises of over 300 acres of land that is idyllic, rich in history and charmed with natural beauty. Take a romantic walk in our walled gardens overlooking our lough and come back to the castle hotel for some exquisite dining in our restaurant or drinks at the Dungeon Bar. Relax and take in the authentic Irish castle atmosphere in the Baronial Hall or in the John McGahern Library.

Mac Raghnaill family (1210 –1621)

The current Lough Rynn estate is built on the ancestral lands of Clan Maelsechlainn-Oge Mac Raghnaill, the pre-Conquest rulers of this part of County Leitrim known as Muintir Eolais. The Annals of Loch Cé and Annals of Connacht refer to “the crannóg of Claenloch” (Lough Rynn) in the High Middle Ages, 1247AD, with the structure marked on some maps as “Crannoge” or “Crane Island”, while the medieval Mac Raghnaill‘s Castle is mentioned in 1474AD.

The ruins of the Mac Raghnaill‘s Castle are located close to the lake and some 500 meters from the existing Lough Rynn Castle. The historian, Fiona Slevin, describes the structure of the Mac Raghnaill castle as “fairly standard for the time, but it did have a few unusual – and clever – features. Although a square shape, the castle had rounded corners that made it more impervious to artillery attacks and it had a straight stairway carved into the hollow of a wall, rather than the more usual spiral stair in one corner.”

The Mac Raghnaill family had played an important role in the Nine Years War on the side of Aodh Mór Ó Néill resisting the English conquest of Ireland.

Crofton family (1621–1750)

In the English Plantation of 1621, the Mac Raghnaill lands in Lough Rynn were confiscated and granted to an English family named Crofton. The Croftons brought British Protestant settlers with them and in the 1620s and 1630s the native Irish were gradually removed from the land.

In 1749, a wealthy landowner named Nathaniel Clements purchased around 10,000 acres in the Mohill area of County Leitrim. Upon doing so, his son Robert became the 1st Earl of Leitrim. On their new estate, the Clements family took up residence in a modest dwelling already on the estate. However, they had their eyes on building a far more impressive residence worthy of their name and their stature – a magnificent castle.

Robert Clements, later First Earl of Leitrim, by Pompeo Batoni, about 1753–1754, Hood Museum of Art.
Robert Clements (1732-1804) 1st Earl of Leitrim by Gilbert Stuart courtesy of Christie’s Irish Sale 2001.

By the start of the 19th century, work had begun on the Clements family’s new home under the watchful eyes of the Earl. Sometime in 1839, Robert Clements died both suddenly and young, which passed the management of the estate to his brother William Sydney Clements. Although Sydney worked with his brother managing the build of Lough Rynn, as a second son, he never expected to inherit the lands or titles. However, in 1854, that’s exactly what he did, taking full ownership of the estate on the death of his father, thus becoming the 3rd Earl of Leitrim or Lord Leitrim as he preferred.

Clements family (1750–1978)

“In 1750 the Croftons were replaced by another English family named the Clements. Daniel Clements, an officer in Oliver Cromwell‘s army, had been granted land in County Cavan which had been confiscated from the Irish following the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland. In 1750 Nathaniel Clements acquired the Lough Rynn estate, while remaining on his lands in Cavan. Nevertheless, the Clements started to become more involved in political life in Leitrim with Robert Clements becoming sheriff for the county in 1759. In 1795 Robert Clements became the first Earl of Leitrim. In 1833, Robert Bermingham [Clements (1805-1839)], Viscount Clements [grandson of the 1st Earl of Leitrim], built a mock Tudor revival house overlooking Lough Rynn. It is this property which is the basis for the current Lough Rynn Castle.

Upon Robert’s death in 1839, management of Lough Rynn estate passed to his brother, William Sydney Clements [(1806-1879) 3rd Earl of Leitrim]. In 1854, when their father Nathaniel Clements, 2nd Earl of Leitrim, died William Sydney Clements became the 3rd Earl of Leitrim. He inherited an estate of a massive 90,000 acres which stretched across four counties. From around this time Sydney Clements asserted his control over the estate in an authoritarian manner which won him many opponents among the tenantry. He was unpopular in the locality and in Ireland, his assassination received widespread publicity in Ireland and abroad, with proponents of land reform using it as evidence of the need to protect tenants from the abuses of tyrannical landlords. His funeral in Dublin was marked by further riots, while none of the three assassins were convicted of his death.

The inheritor of the Lough Rynn estate was Sydney Clements’ English-educated cousin who lived in Cavan, Colonel Henry Theophilus Clements [1820-1904], rather than the heir presumptive to the title who lived in England. This Colonel Clements embarked on an extensive expansion and refurbishment of the castle. He added a new wing, built a Baronial Hall designed by Thomas Drew with heavy plaster cornices, a large ornate Inglenook fireplace, and a fretted ceiling and walls wainscoted in solid English oak. Upon its completion in 1889, the principal floor of the house contained a main hall, Baronial Hall, chapel, reception room, living room and dining room. Two pantries, a kitchen, study, smokehouse and store were accessed by a separate entrance. In the basement there were stores and a wine cellar. There were fourteen bedrooms and four bathrooms upstairs.

By 1952, when Marcus Clements took over the Lough Rynn estate, most of it had been sold off to former tenants under the land acts of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. Clements lived there until the 1970’s. The estate remained largely empty until 1990 when it was purchased by an Irish-American investor, for a short time it was open to visitors but it was still in need of more investment and care.

Hanly Family (2001- Present)

In 2001 Lough Rynn estate was purchased by the current owners, the Hanly family. They invested substantially in the castle and the grounds. In September 2006 when Lough Rynn Castle finally opened as a hotel, the estate extended to three hundred acres. Local father and son Alan and Albert Hanly purchased the castle and grounds. Over the seven years that followed, they lovingly brought it back to its former glory, so that it’s magic, luxury and history could be embraced.

Lough Rynn, County Leitrim, Irish Tourist Collection NLI ref NPA ITA 1377 (Box VII).

A secluded location, standard-setting craftsmanship, breathtaking views and the perfect blend of old-world elegance and new-world luxury, has turned Lough Rynn Castle into a truly magical destination.

Mark Bence-Jones. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London.

p. 193. “(Lucas-Clements/IFR; Clements/IFR) A simple two storey Tudor-Revival house of cut stone, with gently sloping gables, mullioned windows, hood-mouldings and tall chimneys; built 1833 for Robert, Viscount Clements, probably to the design of William Burn; to which a wing in the same style but higher, and on a grander scale, was added 1889 to the design of Sir Thomas Drew for Col H.T. Clements, who inherited the estate from his cousin, William Clements, 3rd Earl of Leitrim. The 1833 range contains pleasant rooms with simple late-Georgian cornices, the later wing contains an oak panelled hall and a very large and impressive drawing room or ballroom in the Norman Shaw style; with oak panelling, a heavy plaster cornice, a fretted ceiling and a vast and ornate inglenook fireplace. Stables with high pitched roofs om French Renaissance style also by Drew. Heavily wooded demesne extending round the lough from which the estate takes its name. Walled garden with terrace above the water’s edge, the parapet adorned with urns and sculpture.” 

Lough Rynn, County Leitrim, photograph courtesy of Mark Bence-Jones, A Guide to Irish Country Houses.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936017/lough-rynn-house-rinn-co-leitrim

Lough Rynn House, RINN, County Leitrim 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached seven-bay two-storey over basement Tudor Revival country house of irregular plan, built in 1832, extended to east in 1889. Multiple pitched slate roofs with cut stone chimneystacks to eastern block, cut stone finials to gables, cast-iron and lead rainwater goods. Cut limestone walls with string courses. Square-headed chamfered mullioned windows with label mouldings. Drew’s addition contains floor to ceiling windows to ground floor containing much elaborate stained glass. Canted-bay window to garden elevation. Gable-fronted entrance porch with segmental-headed opening, tooled moulded stone surrounds, date ‘1889’ above door in decoratively carved panels, surmounted by finely carved crest containing word ‘Salve’. Timber door with iron studs and wrought-iron handle. Limestone slabs to entrance. Doorbell set within carved circular panel. Limestone steps to entrance landing. Original round-headed entrance with block-and-start tooled moulded surround, timber battened door and stone steps to entrance. Cut stone wall to east with terracotta railings and decorative wrought-iron gates. House abutted by cut stone outbuildings to west. 

Appraisal 

This substantial house, designed by William Burn and extended by Sir Thomas Drew is situated within a large estate containing many buildings and features of notable architectural quality such as stables, coachyard, farmyard, boathouse, walled gardens, viewing tower as well as church, school, dispensary and a number of lodges and estate cottages. These buildings combine to form an estate of major significance within Leitrim and indeed Ireland

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936018/lough-rynn-estate-stables-rinn-co-leitrim

Detached eight-bay two-storey stable block, built in 1833, with stone walls surrounding yard. Currently disused. Pitched slate roof with dormer window below eaves and stone coping to gable ends. Coursed squared cut stone walls with square-headed window and door openings. Timber casement windows with stone sills. Timber and glazed doors with overlights. Pair of segmental-headed carriage openings. Red brick structure with corrugated lean-to roof to north. Cut stone slabs in circular pattern surrounding former well. Random coursed stone wall to garden. Cut stone piers with cast-iron gates give access to site. Subsequent stable block to west. 

Appraisal 

This stable yard, which appears to date to the first period of construction at Lough Rynn is of a pleasant design and retains many original features and materials. It forms an interesting group with the related demesne structures comprising Lough Rynn Estate. This group exhibits varied architectural styles, features and materials that are representative of nineteenth-century demesne architecture. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936019/lough-rynn-estate-stables-rinn-co-leitrim

Detached multiple-bay two-storey L-plan former stable block, built in 1858. Currently disused. Steeply-pitched roofs with gabled dormers, cut stone chimneystacks, stone coping to gables with wrought-iron finials. Random coursed stone walls with cut stone detailing to opening surrounds. Variety of window openings with timber sash and casement windows with stone sills. Slate canopy over four-centred integral carriage arches with timber and glass double doors. Buttress to rear supporting chimneystack. Site bounded by random coursed stone walls with cut stone piers and cast-iron gates. Cast-iron piers with wrought-iron gates situated to west of stable block. This stable block lies to the west of another. 

Appraisal 

This stableyard, designed by Benjamin Rogers, forms part of an impressive group of demesne-related structures that comprise Lough Rynn Estate. The stunning design of these buildings reflects a standard set amongst the various other structures in the estate. These stables and associated demesne structures are important contributors to the architectural heritage of County Leitrim. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30935006/lough-rynn-walled-gardens-rinn-co-leitrim

Walled garden complex, built in 1859 to a design by the firm of Deane and Woodward, comprising four separate gardens, terraced towards Lough Rynn and bounded by random coursed stone walls. Access to first garden through cut stone piers with hipped slate canopy supported on timber brackets with limestone corbels. Garden contains stone outbuildings with slate roofs to south wall. Entrances in south wall to remaining three gardens. Pointed-arched openings with sandstone voussoirs and block-and-start surrounds. South-west garden contains glass house with castellated stone plinth walls. Three southern gardens have limestone steps leading between them descending westwards. Two-storey octagonal viewing turret or summer house, built in 1867 at north-west corner of south-east garden. Slate roof with cast-iron weather vane. Random coursed stone walls. Pointed-arched openings with dressed stone surrounds. Two cast-iron balconies. Steps leading from gardens to lakeside terminating in pointed-arched and segmental-headed openings with timber battened doors. 

Appraisal 

These walled gardens are a reminder of the past horticultural traditions associated with country houses. Their scale and the views they command over the lake make them a notable part of the estate. The glass house would have represented a significant technical achievement in its time. The summer house, which was designed by J.E. Rogers, is an appealing design with its finely executed stonework and cast-iron balconies adding artistic interest to the site. The notice board on site indicates that the garden designs were by Deane and Woodward. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30935007/lough-rynn-estate-farmyard-rinn-co-leitrim

Farmyard complex, built c.1840 and extended in 1858. Currently disused. Comprises four detached outbuildings around central courtyard, with further enclosed courtyard to north-west, accessed through cast-iron gates. Pitched slate roofs with cut stone chimneystacks, cast-iron rainwater goods and dormer windows and rooflights. Random coursed limestone walls with dressed quoins. Block-and-start surrounds to windows and some doors. Timber sash and casement windows with block-and-start surrounds. Variety of timber doors. Cut stone bellcote to gable of north-west range with cast-iron weathervane. Complex bounded by random coursed cut stone walls with cut stone piers and cast-iron gates. Further cast-iron gates lead to a walled garden. 

Appraisal 

This farmyard is one of a group of structures that form the immediate setting of Lough Rynn House. Extended in 1858 by renowned architects Deane and Woodward the buildings display well-executed stonework which enhances their appeal as an aesthetic as well as functional complex. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30935008/lough-rynn-estate-office-rinn-co-leitrim

Detached two-pile two-bay one-storey with attic former estate office, built c.1850, recently used as restaurant but now disused. Pitched slate roofs with brick chimneystacks, timber bargeboards, cast-iron rainwater goods and cast-iron finials to gables. Random coursed cut stone walls with dressed limestone quoins. Timber casement windows with brick surrounds and limestone sills. Sash windows to first floor. Timber battened door with pointed arch brick surround and limestone keystone to north. Dormer and oriel windows to east elevation. Glazed timber porch with monopitched slate roof to south elevation. Set at edge of farmyard with stone walls separating

Appraisal 

This former estate office, designed by Mathew Digby Wyatt in the 1850s, is embellished by varied colourful materials such as finely-executed stone walls and dressings, yellow brick surrounds and painted timber bargeboards. It forms an attractive part of the farmyard of the Lough Rynn Estate. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30935011/lough-rynn-estate-former-forge-rinn-co-leitrim

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached three-bay two-storey former forge, built c.1840, with two-bay single-storey extension to east. Now disused. Pitched slate roof with stone and rendered chimneystacks to rear, timber bargeboards and some cast-iron rainwater goods. Random coursed cut stone walls. Block-and-start surrounds to timber windows with limestone sills. Block-and-start surrounds to square-headed integral carriage arches with cut stone voussoirs. This building is separate from the main outbuilding complex of estate. Adjacent to forge is a stone lined well with cut stone cover with remains of stone mortice. 

Appraisal 

This former forge forms part of a complex constituting the utilitarian buildings of Lough Rynn Estate. This simple structure is enhanced by the quality of its stonework, a prevailing feature of the buildings on the estate, especially those closest to the main house. The survival of many original features further enhances this structure, which contributes to the striking group of structures comprising Lough Rynn Estate. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936003/lough-rynn-estate-former-dispensary-farnaght-co-leitrim

Detached four-bay single-storey former dispensary, built c.1850, now derelict. Hipped slate roof with red brick chimneystacks. Random coursed stone walls with tooled quoins. Timber casement windows with limestone sills, lintels and block-and-start surrounds. Projecting gable-fronted ashlar porch with decorative timber bargeboard and shouldered-arched opening. Timber battened door with limestone steps. Random coursed stone outbuilding to rear. Site bounded by rubble stone wall. 

Appraisal 

This former dispensary forms part of a group of demesne-related structures associated with Lough Rynn Estate. Though fallen into disrepair, this building has retained its original form, features and materials. It is similar in design and detail to various lodges, houses and other structures on the estate, while the quality of craftsmanship maintains the same high level. This former dispensary is a socially- and architecturally-significant structure within the estate. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936004/lough-rynn-estate-former-school-farnaght-co-leitrim

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached four-bay single-storey with attic former primary school, built c.1870, now in domestic use. Pitched slate roof with decorative timber bargeboards and brick chimneystacks. Random coursed stone walls with cut stone quoins. Window openings to gable end with red brick surrounds. Stone and timber lintels to façade and rear elevation with replacement uPVC windows. Projecting gable-fronted porch to façade with shoulder-arched opening, brick surround and stone steps to entrance. Replacement uPVC door. Original entrance to site was over single-span stone bridge

Appraisal 

This former school, possibly by the architect Sir Andrew Drew, is an attractive and decorative building situated on the Lough Rynn Estate. Similar in style to various lodges and estate workers cottages, with its finely-tooled shoulder-arched openings and gable windows with brick surrounds, the school is an architecturally- and socially-significant structure within the estate. 

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.
Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936005/the-lodge-lough-rynn-estate-farnaght-co-leitrim

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached two-bay single-storey with attic gable-fronted former gate lodge, built c.1850, now in domestic use. Pitched slate roof with decorative timber bargeboards, oversailing eaves and catslide roof to porch. Cut stone chimneystack with terracotta pots. Random coursed stone walls with cut stone quoins. Square-headed window openings with yellow brick surrounds having chamfered reveals and chamfered tooled limestone sills. Casement windows and side-sliding timber sash windows. Shouldered-arched opening to entrance with timber battened door and stone steps. Stone outbuilding to rear of site with pitched slate roof. Site bounded by random stone wall with tooled stone piers

Appraisal 

This attractive lodge is one of three very similar lodges giving access to Lough Rynn Estate. The finely-tooled stonework to the shouldered-arched entrance and the window to the front gable with its brick dressings are found on various structures throughout the estate, echoing the architecture of Lough Rynn House. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30936001/lough-rynn-estate-former-gate-lodge-gortletteragh-co-leitrim

Lough Rynn Castle, County Leitrim, courtesy National Inventory.

Detached single-bay single-storey with attic gable-fronted former lodge, built c.1850, now a house. Pitched slate roof with catslide roof to porch and oversailing eaves, timber bargeboards to gables and cut-stone chimneystacks. Random coursed limestone walls with sandstone foundation. Side-sliding timber sash windows with tooled limestone lintels, sills and brick surrounds. Porch to east with shouldered-arched opening and brick surround with timber panelled door. Set behind random coursed limestone wall with soldier course forming coping at entrance to Lough Rynn Estate. 

Appraisal 

This attractive former gate lodge is one of three similar lodges dotted around the periphery of Lough Rynn Estate. The similar plan of these lodges is highlighted by subtle decorative features which vary between the individual structures. The finely-tooled shouldered-arched entrance mirrors that of other structures found within Lough Rynn. Further decorative enrichments include the dressed lintels, brickwork and treatment of the roof. 

Detached two-bay single-storey with attic gable-fronted former gate lodge, built c.1850, now vacant. Pitched slate roof with oversailing eaves, cut stone chimneystack and decorative timber bargeboards. Random coursed stone walls. Tooled limestone lintels to side-sliding timber sash windows with limestone sills and brick surrounds. Projecting lean-to entrance porch to east with shouldered-arched opening with cut stone lintel, red brick surround and timber battened door. Stone outbuilding with pitched slate roof to north-west. Set behind random coursed stone wall with rock-faced cut stone piers to estate. 

Appraisal 

This former gate lodge is one of three such giving access to Lough Rynn Estate. The lodges follow a similar plan with subtle decorative features distinguishing them from one another. The style echoes the architecture and skilled craftsmanship visible around Lough Rynn. The red brick to the window openings here add an interesting deviation and some colour to an otherwise stone façade. 

Detached four-bay single-storey with attic former estate worker’s house, built c.1860, with return and extension to rear. Now in domestic use. Pitched slate roof with rebuilt chimneystack and rooflights. Random coursed sandstone walls with dressed quoins. Block-and-start window surrounds to replacement windows. Projecting stone porch with catslide roof and replacement timber battened door. Stone outbuilding to east side, now connected to house. 

Appraisal 

This attractive former estate worker’s cottage displays well-executed stonework mirroring the standard set amongst other buildings on the estate. Although modernised it is similar in style to these other buildings and forms a charming addition to Lough Rynn. 

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/30935010/lough-rynn-estate-former-stewards-house-rinn-co-leitrim

Detached three-bay two-storey T-plan former steward’s house, built c.1850 in a Tudor Gothic style. Now used as a private house. Multiple pitched slate roofs with cut stone, rendered and brick chimneystacks. Cut stone coping to gables. Random coursed cut stone walls with plinth. Projecting entrance porch with monopitched slate roof. Square-headed and Tudor-arched window openings with tooled stone surrounds, timber casement and uPVC windows. Gablet window to rear elevation. Tudor-arched door openings with tooled stone surrounds, timber panelled door to porch and replacement battened door, sidelight and overlight to rear. Stone and timber sheds to rear of site. Site bounded by random rubble wall and set within mature gardens. Lead water tank to rear of site. 

Appraisal 

This steward’s house, located near the farm complex, is a highly attractive structure, designed by the architect M.D. Wyatt. Situated on an elevated position, the fine dwelling retains much original fabric and character. This house is an important and imposing structure within Lough Rynn Estate. 

 
http://landedestates.nuigalway.ie/LandedEstates/jsp/property-list.jsp?letter=L 

Lough Rynn was built in the early 1830s by Robert, Viscount Clements, heir to the 2nd Earl. At the time of Griffith’s Valuation it was valued at £40. In 1906 it is recorded as the property of Col. H.T. Clements and has a valuation of £100. It is still extant. In 2006 it opened as a luxury hotel. For more information see http://www.loughrynn.ie and http://www.loughrynn.net.  

 
Irish HIstoric Houses. Kevin O’Connor 

Lough Rynn, one of Ireland’s most luxurious castle hotels, was once the ancestral home of the Clements family and the legendary Lord Leitrim. This secluded lakeside retreat offers you contemporary luxury steeped in history. Set inside a 300-acre estate, Lough Rynn offers you breathtaking scenery, lush green pastures, ancient forests and a magnificent Victorian walled garden. Lough Rynn Castle retains a splendour befitting its history. Dine in the 2AA Rosette awarded Sandstone Restaurant where a menu lovingly prepared, focuses on home-grown produce. A simply magical experience awaits you. 

Lough Rynn Castle, Restored Castle. Now a luxury castle hotel on the shores of Lough Rynn situated on the historic grounds of the medieval castle and estate of the Mac Raghnaill family of Muintir Eolais. The current Lough Rynn estate is built on the ancestral lands of the Mac Raghnaill family. See Mac Raghnaill’s Castle below. In the English Plantation of 1621, the Mac Raghnaill lands in Lough Rynn were confiscated and granted to an English family named Crofton. The Croftons brought British Protestant settlers with them and in the 1620s and 1630s the native Irish were gradually removed from the land. In 1750 the Croftons were replaced by another English family named the Clements. Daniel Clements, an officer in Oliver Cromwell’s army, had been granted land in County Cavan which had been confiscated from the Irish following the Cromwellian conquest of Ireland. In 1750 Nathaniel Clements, 2nd Earl of Leitrim KP PC acquired the Lough Rynn estate, while remaining on his lands in Cavan started to become more involved in political life in Leitrim with Robert Clements becoming sheriff for the county in 1759. In 1795 Robert Clements became the first Earl of Leitrim. In 1833, Robert Bermingham, Viscount Clements, built a mock Tudor revival house overlooking Lough Rynn, which is the basis for the current Lough Rynn Castle. When Robert died management of Lough Rynn passed to his brother, William Sydney Clements, 3rd Earl of Leitrim. In 1854, when their father Nathaniel Clements, 2nd Earl of Leitrim, died William Sydney Clements became the 3rd Earl of Leitrim. He inherited an estate of 90,000 acres which stretched across four counties. The inability of tenants to pay rent during and after An Gorta Mór provided him with an opportunity to clear his estate and introduce more productive farming practices. In 1858, in a nationally reported event, Clements assembled one thousand armed military and police to repossess the local Gortletteragh Church for non-payment of rent, (his liberally-minded father had refused to take rent). About six thousand men turned up from Longford, Westmeath, Roscommon and across Leitrim to defend the church, forcing Clements to back down. By 1860 Sydney Clements had become a staunch supporter of the Conservatives. In 1870 he spoke out vehemently against William Gladstone’s first Irish Land Act, believing it to be an encroachment on the rights of property owners. During the 1860s hatred towards Sydney Clements grew in the surrounding area and stories began to be told of his mistreatment of the wives and daughters of local men. In September 1860 James Murphy from Mohill fired a loaded pistol at him, two days after sending him a note challenging him to a duel to ‘take satisfaction for your ruffianly conduct towards my wife’. An additional attempt to shoot him followed in the 1860s. In 1878 Sydney Clements engaged in a wholesale eviction of his tenants in County Donegal, many of whom were starving as a result of the famine. On 2 April 1878 three men, Michael Heraghty, Michael McElwee and Neil Sheils, ambushed and killed William Sydney Clements, 3rd Lord Leitrim, at Cratlagh Wood near Milford, County Donegal. His funeral in Dublin was marked by further riots, while none of the three assassins were convicted of his death. Lough Rynn Castle Hotel now has forty-two bedrooms, a baronial hall, a library named after John McGahern, drawing room, piano room, bar, the award-winning Sandstone restaurant, as well as conference, bar and wedding facilities for up to three hundred guests in an adjoining function room.