Lambay Castle, Lambay Island, Malahide, Co. Dublin – section 482 tourist accommodation

Happy New Year! My best wishes for the year ahead. I hope it will bring many exciting house visits.

The Section 482 Revenue list of properties that will be open to visitors won’t be published until late February in 2025, unfortunately.

2025 Diary of Irish Historic Houses (section 482 properties)

To purchase an A5 size 2025 Diary of Historic Houses (opening times and days are not listed so the calendar is for use for recording appointments and not as a reference for opening times) send your postal address to jennifer.baggot@gmail.com along with €20 via this payment button. The calendar of 84 pages includes space for writing your appointments as well as photographs of the historic houses. The price includes postage within Ireland. Postage to U.S. is a further €10 for the A5 size calendar, so I would appreciate a donation toward the postage – you can click on the donation link.

€20.00

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

A tour of Lambay Castle is expensive so I don’t think Stephen and I will be going any time soon, so I thought I would publish an entry about it today.

Lambay Island, photograph courtesy of www.visitdublin.com
Portrane and Lambay Island, County Dublin 1844 after John Edward Jones.

The island is owned and protected today by the Revelstoke Trust and daily management lies in the hands of Alex Baring, 7th Baron Revelstoke, and his family.

The castle on Lambay Island is privately owned but can be rented for accommodation, and there is other accommodation on the island. One can also visit the island on a day trip but the castle is not open to visitors unless booked in advance on the website.

www.lambayisland.ie
(Tourist Accommodation Facility) 

Accommodation dates in 2025: April 1- September 30 2025

The website tells us that it the largest island off the east coast of Ireland and the largest privately owned island in North-West Europe. The island is home to seals and puffins, with deer and wallabies that were originally imported. Nesting birds include Fulmars, Guillemots, Herring Gulls, Kittiwakes, Manx Shearwaters and Puffins, while Greylag Geese are common winter visitors. 

The island’s farm produces organic meat from sheep, deer and wallabies. Energy on the island is provided by a wind turbine and solar panels, and water is from a natural spring.

Lambay Island is self-sustaining, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie

The island has an ancient history. The website tells us:

Its early history is obscure but, like many other small islands, it attracted saints, hermits and pirates. It is thought to be one of the first few places where Viking raiders landed and proofs of its prehistoric history and early modern settlement were found around the harbour which date from the 1st century AD.  Excavations also revealed Iron-Age graves dating back to circa 500 BC.”

St. Columba may have established a monastery on the island as early as the sixth century.

In 1181 the island was granted by Prince John (later king) to the Archbishops of Dublin, who received rents and tithes from the island.

To prevent piracy or invasion of the mainland, a license was granted to build a fort in the early 1500s. The structure built may may have formed the core of the castle still surviving when Cecil Baring later purchased the land. John Challoner (d. 1581), who was the first Secretary of State for Ireland, appointed by Queen Elizabeth I in 1560, agreed to build a village, castle and harbour on the island. The website tells us that he set up mines for copper and silver on the island, though it is not clear how successful this was, and bred falcons.

The island passed by marriage to the Ussher family in 1611. James Ussher (1581-1656) is the cleric famous for calculating that the earth was created around 6 pm on 22 October 4004 BC.

James Ussher (1580-1656) Archbishop of Armagh aged 74 by Peter Lely, courtesy of National Trust Hatchlands.

Sean O’Reilly tells us in his Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life (published by Aurum Press Ltd, London, 1998) that:

Weaver’s first article on an Irish house already showed clearly his concern for disposing of unauthenticated traditions. Among those he corrected was the presumption, promulgated in Samuel Lewis’s Topographical Dictionary of 1837, that the island was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Archbishop James Ussher, a figure famous for dating the creation of the world to 4004 BC on the basis of a chronology of the Old Testament. Weaver pointed out that the island was in fact held by Ussher’s cousin, William. Despite many vicissitudes, Lambay Island remained in possession of the Usshers from 1551 to 1804, from which time no significant work was done on the castle until the arrival of Baring.” [1]

The website tells us that the island was used as a Prisoner of War camp for over 1,000 Irish soldiers during the Williamite war after the Battle of Aughrim. 

In 1805 the island was inherited by William Wolseley and in 1814 it was acquired by the family of Richard Wogan Talbot, 2nd Baron Talbot of Malahide. They built a school and a Catholic chapel on the island. The chapel was later renovated by Lutyens to resemble a Doric temple and the school no longer exists.

James Considine sold Portrane House and purchased Lambay in 1888. Count Considine set about developing the island as a hunting estate and was the first man to introduce deer onto the island. 

Lambay Island, photograph courtesy of www.visitdublin.com

In 1904, Cecil Baring, later the 3rd Baron Revelstoke, and his wife Maude Lorillard bought the island. Baring was a classical scholar and naturalist as well as former director of his family’s New York office of Barings Bank. The website tells us:

​”In early 1904, with Maude heavily pregnant, Cecil went to investigate Lambay; he found a small line of cottages occupied by coastguards, a chapel, a walled garden, a dilapidated old fort and a magnificent wealth of wildlife. It was an intoxicating mixture.

​​”The first task facing the Barings was the repair of the castle and they refitted a heavy lugger, the Shamrock, to carry the necessary materials to the island. The Shamrock (version 3.0) is still in use today as Lambay’s main cargo boat and is used to transport the sheep and cattle as well as bulkier materials and equipment for the off-grid energy system.

Baring hired Edward Lutyens to renovate the property. The website tells us:

​”Lutyens was utterly delighted by Lambay and the couple, and the visit sparked a warm friendship between the three of them that would last throughout their lives. Lutyens extended the Castle masterfully and by 1910 it was a beautiful refuge for Cecil and Maude, surrounded by an impressive circular wall, which Lutyens nicknamed “The Ramparts Against Uncharity“.

Lambay Island, photograph courtesy of www.visitdublin.com

Sean O’Reilly describes the work of Lutyens:

p. 30. “By the time of Lutyen’s arrival much original fabric had deteriorated, and he was required to rebuild in part, though he retained triumphantly the ancient mood. A new service range was necessary, discreetly located off a corner of the castle and set into the ground so as not to dominate the main castle. Lutyens also ensured the prominence of the medieval fabric by deciding not to repeat the leitmotif of the original – the stepped gables – in the new work. Instead he used steep sweeping tiled roofs broken by dormers, gables and stacks.” [1]

Lambay Castle, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie
From “In Harmony with Nature, The Irish Country House Garden 1600-1900” in the Irish Georgian Society, July 2022, curated by Robert O’Byrne.
Lambay Castle, Lambay Island. Photograph from Country Life published 4th May 1912.

The Historic Houses of Ireland website describes the residence:

Today the three-bay centre of the north-west front, which faces a bastion gateway in the Rampart Wall, is flanked by two full-height projecting bays, each with crow-stepped gables and tall chimneys. Lutyens attached a wing to provide guest accommodation at the northeastern corner and regarded the “link between the two buildings as one of his most brilliant architectural coups” since the castle, which appears single storied on this front, continues to dominate the two-storey wing. The castle and the farm buildings, and the walls of the much enlarged gardens were built in grey-green Lambay stone, with grey pantile roofs, and form a sequence of courts, walled gardens and enclosed yards that give the impression of a small hamlet nestling for protection beneath the castle walls.” [2]

The castle and west forecourt of Lambay Castle, Lambay Island. Photograph from Country Life published 4th May 1912.
Lambay Castle: ground and first floor plans, as altered by Lutyens, 1908-11, courtesy https://landedfamilies.blogspot.com

Sean O’Reilly describes Lutyen’s work in more detail:

Lutyens did need to provide suitable facilities within the surviving ruins of the castle, the most basic of these being a staircase. Curiously, the original castle fabric did not possess internal access to the upper floor, so Lutyens inserted his in the space between the bastions at the rear of the building. He linked these two with a sequence of three cross windows broken by the arched doorway leading to the staircase. The new arrangement is a typically imaginative piece of intervention by Lutyens, as it performs a number of functions with appropriate efficiency. It gives access not only to the bedrooms on the upper floor, but also to the raised ground at the rear of the castle, and it connects to the underground service passage to the kitchen wing. 

Reception rooms also needed to be provided inside the ruins, and again it was to Lutyens’s credit that he succeeded in creating an imaginative variety of shapes and spaces without intruding on the individuality of the building. Perhaps most surprising is the provision of two entrance halls, one in each of the corner bastions of the entrance front, and each with its own door. The sitting room, reached only after passing through the central dining room and staircase hall behind, is in the corner adjoining the service wing.

Due to the need for the reconstruction of this corner Lutyens was more free to open out the architecture, without actually intruding on surviving original fabric. Here he introduced a pointed stone arch linking the section of the room in the original bastion with that part set between the bastions. Lutyens topped this range with a hipped roof – an informal nod to the detailing of the service wing – and square battlements – a more formal bow to the stepping in the original gables, seen across the view of the north court.” [1]

Lambay Castle, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie

The Historic Houses of Ireland website tells us that the castle is “constructed with small doors and small casements so that the inhabitants seem, on rough days, to be sheltering like monks.”  [see 2]

The interior has vaulted ceilings, stone fireplaces and a curved stone staircase, while much of the furniture chosen by Lutyens is still arranged just as he intended. 

Spiral arches, Lambay Castle, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie
At the head of the stone stair at Lambay Castle. Photograph from Country Life published 4th May 1912.  
The staircase landing at Lambay Castle. Photograph from Country Life published 4th May 1912.  
The eastern half of the sitting room at Lambay Castle. Photograph from Country Life published 4th May 1912.  
The kitchen in the guest accommodation in the castle, Lambay Castle, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie
The guest accommodation in the castle, Lambay Castle, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie

Lutyens also adapted and enlarged a number of other early structures and integrated them into an ingenious  coordinated layout for the whole island, combining the farm, gardens and plantations as a single composition, in collaboration with the horticulturalist and garden designer Gertrude Jekyll. 

Rampart walls, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie

Mark Bence-Jones describes the wall that surrounds the castle and gardens: this wall serves the practical purpose of a wind-break, enabling trees and plants to grow inside it which would not grow outside. [3] He also describes the approach to the castle:

Lutyens also designed the approach from the harbour, with curved step-like terraces reminiscent of the now-vanished Ripetta in Rome; characteristically, having ascended these Baroque steps, one has to cross an open field to come to the curtain wall, the entrance gaeway not being at first visible; so that there is a wonderful sense of expectancy. Close the the harbour is the White House, a largely single-storey horseshoe-shaped house with high roofs and white harled walls, which Lutyens designed 1930s for Lord Revelstoke’s daughter, Hon Mrs (Arthur) Pollen. On a hill is an old Catholic chapel, with a portico of tapering stone columns and a barrel vaulted ceiling.” [see 3]

The walled kitchen garden pierces the Rampart Wall to the South and there is the mausoleum of the Revelstokes, designed by Lutyens in 1930, on the opposite side of the enclosure. The website tells us:

​”Cecil and Maude had 12 blissful years together with their little family on Lambay but alas, in 1922, a still young Maude died of cancer, leaving Cecil with two daughters, Daphne and Calypso, and their little son Rupert. Her body was brought back from London to the island for burial. Lutyens, who was then busy with war memorials and the government buildings of New Delhi, designed a large monument for her grave, set in against the rampart walls and facing towards the Castle. The mausoleum is today one of the most pleasant and peaceful spots on the island. Prefacing Cecil’s epitaph, a beautiful poem about his wife, is the word ‘Quiet’, both an imperative to the reader and a description of the monument’s setting.

Lutyens  also designed the White House overlooking the harbour on the western shores of the island, as a holiday home for the couple’s two daughters and their families. This is now available as visitor accommodation.

The White House, Lambay, photograph courtesy of www.lambayisland.ie

The website tells us that Cecil convened a congress to examine the flora and fauna of the island, the findings of which were published in The Irish Naturalist (1907).

He also tried to introduce new species, including mouflon sheep, chamois goats, kinkajous and rheas.  Today, there is a large population of wallabies on Lambay, but these were brought here in the 1980s by Cecil’s son Rupert Revelstoke, who had enjoyed having two pet wallabies in the 1950s.

Lambay Island, photograph courtesy of www.visitdublin.com

I hope that Stephen and I can visit the island and the castle someday!

[1] Sean O’Reilly Irish Houses and Gardens. From the Archives of Country Life. Published by Aurum Press Ltd, London, 1998.

[2] https://www.ihh.ie/index.cfm/houses/house/name/Lambay%20Castle 

[3] Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988 Constable and Company Ltd, London. 

Killeen Mill, Clavinstown, Drumree, Co. Meath – section 482 tourist accommodation

2025 Diary of Irish Historic Houses (section 482 properties)

To purchase an A5 size 2025 Diary of Historic Houses (opening times and days are not listed so the calendar is for use for recording appointments and not as a reference for opening times) send your postal address to jennifer.baggot@gmail.com along with €20 via this payment button. The calendar of 84 pages includes space for writing your appointments as well as photographs of the historic houses. The price includes postage within Ireland. Postage to U.S. is a further €10 for the A5 size calendar, so I would appreciate a donation toward the postage – you can click on the donation link.

€20.00

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

A happy new year to all of my readers!

www.killeenmill.ie
Tourists Accommodation Facility – not open to the public

Open for accommodation in 2025: April 1- Sept 30

Killeen Mill, County Meath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The five bay four storey mill was built in around 1800. [1] Built on to the side is a house, which is listed on 2024’s Revenue Section 482 as tourist accommodation, although the website link is not working for me today. If interested, you could try ringing (086) 818 2384. The mill was once part of the Killeen estate of the Plunkett Earls of Fingal. Stephen and I drove by the property to see it in July 2022 after a wonderful visit to Dunsany Castle.

A sign on the mill tells us that it was owned by Christopher Plunkett, Earl of Fingal. The only Christopher who was Earl of Fingall is the 2nd Earl (1612-1649). There has been a mill on the site since the seventeenth century, the first record appears in the Civil Survey of 1654.

The sign tells us that the top floor was used for storing grain, the middle for shelling, grinding and “bolting.” The ground floor was used for “shafting” and there was also an office on this level, as well as a small shop. A kiln was used to dry the grain, added in the nineteenth century.

The mill was powered by a horizontal water wheel. Water was channelled to form a millpond. Water passed down a shute to the wheel which ground the flour.

Killeen Mill, County Meath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Killeen Mill, County Meath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Killeen Mill, County Meath. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The core of the miller’s house, the sign tells us, could date back to the sixteenth century!

The current owners, Dermot and Fiona Kealy, installed new flagstones inside the cottage and new windows. [2] The also reroofed the mill and made it a safe structure.

The cottage has a kitchen, family room and living room on the ground floor, while upstairs there’s a bathroom and three bedrooms. Fiona told the Irish Times about how restoration had to be done according to regulation for a historic building:  “We even had to have an archaeological dig to make sure we wouldn’t disturb anything of significance. Then everything had to be architecturally correct for the period. When we stripped off the layers of wallpaper, there were holes in the plaster, and our plasterer had to make up plaster with horsehair and lime, the way it would have been done.

It was handy, because the pony was having his hair cut and we used some of his hair. It’s lovely to think you’ve preserved something, and that Cookie the pony is forever enshrined in the walls.” [see 2] At first the family lived in the house, but then they moved to a larger house when their children grew, and they let the cottage for short stays.

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/14403802/killeen-mill-clowanstown-co-meath

[2] https://www.independent.ie/life/home-garden/homes/peek-inside-this-renovated-cottage-attached-to-a-17th-century-mill/35449984.html

Donation towards accommodation

I receive no funding nor aid to create and maintain this website, it is a labour of love. I travel all over Ireland to visit Section 482 properties and sometimes this entails an overnight stay. A donation would help to fund my accommodation.

€150.00

Ballybur Castle, Ballybur Upper, Cuffesgrange, Co. Kilkenny – section 482

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

www.ballyburcastle.com

Open dates in 2025: Aug 1-31, Sept 1-30, 2pm-6pm
Fee: Free

Ballybur Castle was advertised for sale in 2024, by Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates. I confess that we have not yet had a chance to visit, so I am using photographs taken from the estate agent advertisement.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The castle was built around 1588, by Richard Comerford. It has five storeys. The sales advertisement tells us: “The castle comes with all the delicious myths you would expect of such an atmospheric building, including the story of gold, hidden under the third step of the stone flight leading to the top floor, as well as a secret passage to the neighbouring Burnchurch Castle.

The Ballybur website tells us: “Ballybur Castle is the ancient seat of the Comerford clan, built by Richard Comerford around 1588. Despite the violent times, it seems to have maintained a fairly peaceful existance. It was one of the seats of the powerful Comerford family, the only one remaining.

Ballybur Castle is typical of the single family castles of that period, built primarily for protection against warring groups travelling the countryside. They were usually surrounded by more temporary structures where the farm labourers lived and livestock were kept.

When trouble was brewing, a roofwatch was kept and at the sight of any hostile group, labourers and livestock were gathered into the castle.

The Comerford castles flourished in the 1500s and well into the 16th century, all three castles were clustered in this area. (There were two more castles near Ballybur Castle belonging to the Comerford clan).

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

One can imagine the social standing of the Comerfords, the entertainment and grand parties that took place in their castles were renowned. The Comerfords occupied Ballybur Castle during the Confederation that took place in Kilkenny in 1641.

Patrick Comerford, a descendant of the Comerfords of Ballybur, tells us more about the history in his blog. He writes that Richard Comerford ‘Senior’ (ca 1462-ca 1532) came into possession of Ballybur, Co Kilkenny, in the early 16th century, through his marriage to Ellen Freny (or French), daughter and co-heir of Patrick fitzFulk Freny, and heiress of Ballymaclaphry and of the moiety of the manor of Ballymacogue, Co Wexford. [1]

Richard ‘Roe’ Comerford (ca 1492?-post 1537), as the eldest son and heir of Richard Comerford ‘Senior’, succeeded his father at Ballybur soon after 1532, and was living there in 1537. His son, Richard ‘Oge’ Comerford, was living at Ballybur Castle in 1566, 1567, 1571/1572, and died ca 1579-1580. Tradition says the present Ballybur Castle was built in 1588 by Richard Oge’s grandson, Richard ‘fitzThomas’ Comerford (1564-1637). [1] Richard Comerford, Lord of Ballybur, who was described as being “truly pious, upright, prudent and valiant”. Richard and his wife Mary Comerford had three sons and eleven daughters, and Ballybur remained in the Comerford family until they were banished in Cromwellian times.

The Papal Nuncio, Archbishop Rinuccini, stayed in the castle when on his way to Kilkenny in November 1645. He presented John Comerford with his rosary beads, which is now on display in Rothe House in Kilkenny city. John inherited the castle from his father Richard ‘fitzThomas’ Comerford, in 1637. They were presented to the Kilkenny Archaeological society by a descendant of John Comerford, Father Edmund Langton-Hayburn (1916-2006), who lived in Freemont, California, and are kept in Rothe House.

Rothe House, County Kilkenny, May 2018.

In 1654 John Comerford was forced to leave during the Cromwellian era. He was compensated with lands near Bunratty in Co Clare, but he never recovered Ballybur Castle or his estates after the Caroline Restoration, despite appeals to his wife’s cousin, the Duke of Ormonde.

Ballybur was acquired by Brian Mansergh (d. 1688) during the Cromwellian land distribution. We came across the Mansergh family when we visited Grenane in County Tipperary.

Patrick Comerford continues, telling us that in 1725 George Mansergh (1682-1754), son of Brian, was living at Ballybur Castle. In 1769, Michael Deignan was living at Ballybur Castle, probably as a tenant of the Mansergh family. Colonel Richard St. George Mansergh added the name St. George to his family when he inherited his maternal uncle’s property. In 1836, Richard Mansergh St. George owned Ballybur Castle, Patrick Comerford tells us.

Richard Mansergh St. George (c.1750-1798) 1791, by Hugh Douglas Hamilton courtesy of military-history.fandom.com/wiki/Richard_St_George_Mansergh-St_George. He inherited the Headfort estate in County Galway, and was murdered by rebels in 1798.

I found a photograph in the National Library of Ireland that seems to tell us that a James Murphy lived in Ballybur, who had a daughter, Kathleen. Carol Maddock provides an extract from the Kilkenny People on the day: “… in the O’Loughlin Memorial Church in St. John’s Parish, when Chevalier Thomas O’Loughlin, Killarney Villa, Ballarat, Australia, was united in marriage with Miss Kathleen Murphy, fifth daughter of Mr. James Murphy, Ballybur Castle, Co. Kilkenny. Chevalier O’Loughlin (or Count O’Loughlin, as he now is[…]) is a prominent figure in the Catholic world in Ireland and Australia. A native of Kilkenny and the inheritor of a vast fortune in the Southern Continent … The wedding ceremony was fixed for 8 o’clock…[about thirty priests con-celebrated the mass, even some from Australia!] … followed by her sisters, the Misses Daisy and Sheela Murphy…”

Chevalier O’Loughlin wedding, large family group, 27 September 1911 (date of wedding) Photographer: A. H. Poole of Poole Photographic Studio, Waterford National Library of Ireland Ref POOLEWP 2350a

The website continues:

We know little about the period between 1655 until 1841 when it is stated that Thomas Deigan was the occupier of Ballybur.

“Locally it is known that the Marnell sisters married into the Deigan family. They occupied Ballybur until Frank and Aifric Gray bought it in 1979.

It has been occupied until recently by their family. They used traditional techniques and local builders to restore the castle over twenty-five years. They received assistance for the renovations from the Kilkenny County Council, the Heritage Council and from the Barrow Suir Development. The castle is now completely refurbished. When they purchased the castle it had no roof – it had been blown off by a canon in Cromwellian times!

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The castle measures 38 feet by 30 feet at the base and stands 65 feet tall. [2] The windows are narrow, but the deeply angled window sills let in the light. Compared with other similar square tower houses, Ballybur has larger rooms and wider stairs than most. Ballybur Castle has been restored and has been a self-catering holiday home.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The Irish Antiquities website describes the castle on a visit in 1986:

A tower-house was inspected at Ballybur. It is about five storeys high and has a machicolation over the doorway. There are two mullioned windows at the top floor and another at second floor level. There are many narrow slits including corner slits and some slopstones. There are remains of a bartizan. A large fireplace on the ground floor may be a later insertion. The first floor is in place and there are fragments of the other floors. To the right of the entrance is a guard chamber and a mural stairway rises to the left. This changes to a spiral above the first floor. The tower is vaulted above the third floor. Many mural chambers lead off the stairway. A mural passage at the third floor leads to a garderobe with a latrine chute. Above the vault is a large chamber with deep recessed windows and a good fireplace. There is a good slopstone at this level. A small turret rises in one corner above roof level.” [3]

The ground floor would have originally been used for storage. Today it is a kitchen, with a solid fuel range, separate gas range, and a richly timbered ceiling, offsetting the stone flagged floor. A hallway to the rear leads to a WC, and the spiral stone stairs to the first floor.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The first floor consists of an immense bedroom with niches in the walls for sleeping. There is also a smaller double room and an elegant bathroom that has a large Victorian bath.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

On the second floor, there is a substantial room with more deep niches in the walls once used for beds. During the daytime these niches were covered by hanging tapestries and the room was used as a living space. Now this floor is a huge double height dining room, with an enormous chandelier hanging down in the centre. The room has a medieval stone fireplace for big blazing fires. Off this room there is a bedroom with windows overlooking the castle grounds. This floor also has a smaller kitchen and shower room.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The third floor, with its vaulted ceiling, has a bedroom that was once the private chapel of the Comerford family, and it is said that Cardinal Rinucinni said Mass here when he stayed at Ballybur Castle. This floor also has a shower room with toilet and sink. From a little balcony you can peep through a narrow doorway down into the dining room.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

The fourth and top floor was once the “state apartment” and is now a magnificent baronial-style drawing room. The room has an oak beamed ceiling that has been left exposed, a huge stone fireplace and another giant chandelier. High above, at the top of this room, a stained glass window is a testament to Nicholas Marnell and his promise to his forbearers that he would hand over the castle to someone who would show it the love it needed to be brilliant again. The artist is Shane Grincell, Tommy Marnell’s grandson.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.
Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

Off this room, a secret room has a deep floorshaft, which was used as a “priests’ hole” for hiding visiting priests after the Reformation or to keep prisoners.

A smaller flight of stairs leads up to the ramparts, and on clear days views stretch as far as Mount Leinster and Slievenamon.

Ballybur Castle, courtesy Sherry Fitzgerald Country Homes, Farms and Estates.

[1] http://www.patrickcomerford.com/search/label/castles?updated-max=2017-03-10T11:30:00Z&max-results=20&start=79&by-date=false

[2] http://www.britainirelandcastles.com/Ireland/County-Kilkenny/Ballybur-Castle.html

[3] http://irishantiquities.bravehost.com/kilkenny/ballybur/ballybur.html

Desmond Banqueting Hall, Newcastlewest, County Limerick – OPW

Desmond Banqueting Hall, Newcastlewest, County Limerick:

General information: 069 77408, desmondhall@opw.ie

Desmond Hall, north facade. Most of what we see today dates from the 15th century. The Desmond Hall consists of a two storey hall over a vault, with tower. It fell into disrepair and was renovated in the 19th century. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

For the season that’s in it, at this beginning of December 2024, I feel it is appropriate to publish this post about a Banqueting Hall! I also would like to remind my readers that I have a few 2025 calendars left, and I am discounting them as the printing did not turn out so well and the images are unfortunately a bit dark. If you prefer one of better quality, I will have to charge the higher price of €30.

2025 Diary of Irish Historic Houses (section 482 properties)

To purchase an A5 size 2025 Diary of Historic Houses (opening times and days are not listed so the calendar is for use for recording appointments and not as a reference for opening times) send your postal address to jennifer.baggot@gmail.com along with €20 via this payment button. The calendar of 84 pages includes space for writing your appointments as well as photographs of the historic houses. The price includes postage within Ireland. Postage to U.S. is a further €10 for the A5 size calendar, so I would appreciate a donation toward the postage – you can click on the donation link.

€20.00

2025 Diary of Irish Historic Houses (section 482 properties)

To purchase an A5 size 2025 Diary of Historic Houses (opening times and days are not listed so the calendar is for use for recording appointments and not as a reference for opening times) send your postal address to jennifer.baggot@gmail.com along with €20 via this payment button. The calendar of 84 pages includes space for writing your appointments as well as photographs of the historic houses. The price includes postage within Ireland. Postage to U.S. is a further €10 for the A5 size calendar, so I would appreciate a donation toward the postage – you can click on the donation link.

€20.00

donation

Help me to pay the entrance fee to one of the houses on this website. This site is created purely out of love for the subject and I receive no payment so any donation is appreciated!

€15.00

Donation towards accommodation

I receive no funding nor aid to create and maintain this website, it is a labour of love. I travel all over Ireland to visit Section 482 properties and sometimes this entails an overnight stay. A donation would help to fund my accommodation.

€150.00

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/desmond-castle-newcastlewest/:

Many of Ireland’s surviving medieval halls are in west Limerick. The Desmond Banqueting Hall in Newcastle West is one of the most impressive among them.

It was begun in the thirteenth century by Thomas ‘the Ape’ FitzGerald, so named because of the story that an ape took him from his cradle to the top of Tralee Castle – and delivered him safely back again.

However, most of the spacious, imposing structure was created in the fifteenth century, at the height of the Desmond earls’ power, and used as a venue for frequent and lavish banquets.

The oak gallery, from which musicians would provide a raucous soundtrack for the revelry below, has been fully restored.

Desmond Hall, south facade. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The prefix “Fitz” is taken from the Norman-French “fiz” son of. Early members of the family were known by their father’s name, ie. Fitzmaurice or Fitzthomas, but eventually the name settled to be Fitzgerald.

The Fitzgeralds were Anglo-Norman and came to Ireland at the time of King Henry II in 1169. After the initial colonisation of Ireland in the southwest and east, the Fitzgeralds and some others pushed into the southwest, the information boards tell us. It was only after the death of Donal Mór Ó Brien, King of Thomond, in 1194 that the Fitzgeralds and other Normans took over most of Limerick. By 1215 they held the towns of Cork, Limerick and Waterford and had built a castle in Dungarvan.

An inquisition of lands in 1298 describes the manor of Newcastle as containing the “New Castle with buildings inside and outside the walls” and the mill of Newcastle.

An information board at Desmond Hall with a picture of what the Castle would have looked like in about 1450.

The surviving buildings are Desmond Hall and Halla Mór. This is possibly the site of the earliest castle foundations, and remnants of the early walls are found underground today. The Desmond hall shows more than one phase of development. Embedded in the exterior of the south wall are vestiges of four early thirteenth century sandstone lancet windows. The fifteenth century development of the hall by the 7th Earl of Desmond introduced many changes including the addition of a projecting tower with small chambers and a stairwell to the Northwest corner.

The Desmond hall shows more than one phase of development. Embedded in the exterior of the south wall are vestiges of four early thirteenth century sandstone lancet windows. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The lower level of the banqueting hall has an excellent display of boards telling us more about the history of the Fitzgerald Earls of Desmond. An old fireplace is set in one wall, it seems to be from 1638.

The visitor centre lies in a building across the courtyard, and another building is being refurbished.

The visitor centre, behind the barn-style doors. This was a coach house and probably built in the time of the tenure by the Courtenay family after 1670s. It was in ruinous condition when it came into care of the state and has been renovated. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information about the buildings at Newcastle West.
The lower level of the Desmond Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Desmond Hall.
Desmond Hall.
The 1638 Kilmallock fireplace. It has been removed from its original location and placed here in the vaulted chamber. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The first claim to the land of Desmond was obtained by the Fitzgeralds when John Fitzthomas married the co-heiress Margery FitzAnthony and was granted in 1251 a share in her father’s lands described as “all the lands of Decies and Desmond and custody of the castle of Dungarvan.” This land was added to the Fitzgerald landholdings in Limerick and North Kerry. In 1292 King Edward I (d. 1307) granted Thomas Fitzmorice (Fitzgerald) and his wife Margaret Berkeley, who was a cousin of the king, “joint custody of Decies and Desmond.” It’s interesting that the wife was given joint custody, and that daughters could be heirs, which as we know was not always the case.

A leaflet from the castle tells us that by 1298, a strong stone castle stood overlooking the Arra River in Newcastle West. Curtain walls with defensive towers surrounding the main buildings, a variety of simple thatched houses and byres for cattle as well as fishponds. The Normans immediately began to consolidate their position by negotiating with the local Gaelic families, while driving the poorer Gaelic peasants into the mountains. By the time of Maurice Fitzthomas Fitzgerald (abt. 1293-1356), the O’Briens to the north had become firm allies of the Fitzgeralds. In 1329, Maurice was created 1st Earl of Desmond, the term “Desmond” being derived from the Irish Deas mnumhain meaning south Munster. By this time the Fitzgeralds were using the Irish language in their daily lives and had taken on many of the values and habits of the Irish culture.

Desmond Hall.
Information board about the Desmonds in the fourteenth century.

The 1st Earl plotted against the King of England, and allied himself with the Gaelic lords. They pillaged many settlements in the south of Ireland. He is said to have written to the Pope to say that King Edward III of England had no right to the lordship of Ireland. It is also claimed that he wrote to the kings of France and Scotland to form an alliance. During a campaign against him he lost his castles at Askeaton and Castleisland. However, the King pardoned him and made him Chief Justiciar of Ireland in 1355.

Gearóid Iarla (c. 1338-1398) became the 3rd Earl of Desmond in 1356. He was an expert mathematician and apparently, the leaflet tells us, a magician! He was also a poet and introduced the idea of courtly love into Gaelic poetry. He also served as Justiciar. He married Alianore, or Eleanor, Butler, daughter of James 2nd Earl of Ormond.

Information board and the Desmonds versus the Ormonds.

Despite the marriage alliance between the Desmonds and the Ormonds, they still battled. A fifteen day conference at Clonmel in 1384 led to a treaty between the families.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Thomas the 8th Earl of Desmond (c. 1426-1468) was made Lord Deputy of Ireland 1464-67. During his time the Desmonds fought again with the Ormonds, including during the War of the Roses when they took opposing sides. The Ormonds supported the victorious Lancasters.

The 8th Earl was however thought to side with the Irish still and was executed by the next Lord Deputy.

The information boards give us more history about Desmond family. The Earls of Desmond fell out of favour after the 8th Earl was executed in 1468.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After the execution of the 8th Earl of Desmond in 1468, the later Earls withdrew from contact with England. The leaflet from the site tells us that the arrival of new settlers in Munster as well as Catholic mistrust of the Protestant state set off risings by the Earls in 1567-73 and 1579-83. Earl Gerald (15th Earl) was declared an outlaw and Munster was laid waste by Crown forces. The rebellion was a failure and Gerald was captured and killed during a cattle raid. The Desmond lands were taken and distributed to English settlers.

Desmond Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Desmond Hall.
Desmond Hall.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

This takes us up to the fifteenth century and the time when the Hall would have been used, as we see it today. The information board tells us that the Hall was where the Lord held court, and that this has two meanings: it was the court of judgement as well as the court of entertainment and dining.

Information board about Halls in Irish castles.
Desmond Hall.
Desmond Hall.
Desmond Hall.
James Fitzgerald the 7th Earl of Desmond is credited with making extensive repairs to the castle complex between 1440 and 1460, including converting what was probably the 13th century chapel into the large and elaborate banqueting hall we see today. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Banqueting Hall was restored in the early 19th century, the ruined battlements were taken down and a new pitch pine roof was put on. The original hooded stone fireplace had collapsed and a seventeenth century replacement, the one we now see in the lower vault, was installed, taken from a house in Kilmallock. The Banqueting Hall was used as a Masonic lodge and later as a general purpose hall for the community.

The leaflet tells us that when the 17th century fireplace was taken down for repair and cleaning, enough of the original hooded fireplace remained that it could be reconstructed with reasonable accuracy.

There was evidence for a timber screen at the west end of the hall, and this has been replaced by a musician’s gallery made of oak.

Desmond Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The restored oak gallery. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

I was surprised to hear that the windows facing the village would have had glass in the fifteenth century. The other side, away from public view, would not have had this expensive luxury.

Desmond Hall. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Lord would have sat on a raised stage, for viewing and to look impressive. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
These are the sorts of eating vessels that would have been used, our guided told us. I love the little decorative head on the jug. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Halla Mór. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Information board about the Halla Mór. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The later history of Desmond Hall is after the lands of Gerald the 15th Earl of Desmond were seized.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After the Earls of Desmond has lost their land, it was given to some prominent and wealthy Englishmen who would develop the Munster Plantation. These men, called “Undertakers,” would undertake to establish English families on the land they were given. Sir William Courtenay (or Courtney) (1553-1630), 3rd Earl of Devon, was granted 10,000 acres at Newcastle. He was originally from Devon in England, and he was given land on condition that eighty English colonists would be housed on his property.

Desmond Hall.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Newcastle passed to William Courtenay’s son George Courtenay (d. 1644), who in 1621 became 1st Baronet Courtenay of Newcastle, County Limerick. The sign boards tell us that in 1641 English settlers crowded into the protection of the walled castle, but after a long seige it fell to General Purcell of the Confederate forces. The Confederates where an amalgamation of Gaelic Ulster families and Anglo-Norman families who were dissatisfied with assurances given to them by King Charles I about their freedom to practice their Catholic faith, and they feared the militant intolerance of the English Parliament.

The Courteneys built an mansion to replace the destroyed castle. George’s son Francis inherited, but as he had no offspring, Newcastle passed to his cousin, William Courtenay (1628-1702) 5th Earl of Devon and 1st Baronet Courtenay. The property remained in the family but they did not live there, and finally it was sold in 1910.

In 1777 William 2nd Viscount Courtenay (1742-1788) built a Church of Ireland church between the Banqueting Hall and the main square of the town. It was demolished in 1962 as it had fallen into disrepair. The 2nd Viscount was 8th Earl of Devon and 4th Baronet Courtenay.

In 1922 the main building, then known as Devon Castle, burnt, and was replaced by a house nearby. The Desmond Hall was sold to the Nash family, and finally the Land Commisson took over the land. Desmond Hall was used for town social events and the Halla Mór as a cinema. The Hall became a National Monument in 1981. Restoration began in 1989.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Ballybrittan Castle, Ballybrittan, Edenderry, Co. Offaly – no longer Section 482

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

Ballybrittan Castle was recently sold. We visited during Heritage Week in 2024. It’s not in Mark Bence-Jones’s tome of Irish Country Houses, nor is it in the National Inventory of Architectural Heritage.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
1857 portrait of the house by Sandham Symes. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

It is a Queen Anne style house attached to an old tower house ruin that dates back to at least 1460, when it was mapped, but it was probably built earlier, as it was taken by the Berminghams from the O’Connors in the 1300s, Rosemarie, the former owner, told us. The house itself was probably built originally as a Baronial hall attached to the side of the castle in the 1600s. Henry Warren was granted the land during the Plantation of Queens County and Kings County – now Offaly and Laois – initiated by Queen Mary and her husband Philip II of Spain. Portlaoise was initially called Maryborough, after Queen Mary, and Daingan in Offaly was called Philipstown. The Baronial hall was probably knocked down in the 1700s and the current house built, using parts of the Baronial hall.

In a quirky feature, part of the stone wall in the front hall is framed and left exposed. The frame is actually an oak window surround discovered by the owners in the process of restoration work, and it dates to the Tudor period!

The frame is actually an oak window surround discovered by the owners in the process of restoration work, and it dates to the Tudor period! Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

Rosemarie, who was in the process of selling her beloved house, welcomed us warmly – she had several visitors for Heritage Week and offered us coffee and biscuits! She brought us inside to share the home she had loved for over twenty years. She and her late husband barrister Jerry Healy purchased the property in 1998 and there raised their four children.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

In the Dictionary of Irish Biography, we are told that Thomasine Preston (d. 1706), daughter of Anthony Preston (1618-1659) 2nd Viscount Tara of County Meath, brought the castle of Ballybrittan with her to her marriage with John Barnewall (d. circa 1691), who was a judge and barrister. [1]

Ballybrittan came from Thomasine’s mother’s side of the family. Her mother was Margaret Warren, and Ballybrittan was previously called Warrenstown.

In a blog by Maureen Wilson, Wilson writes that Henry Warren garrisoned the fortress at Ballybrittan in 1600 for Queen Elizabeth. A Henry Warren married Alice Loftus, daughter of Adam Loftus (d. 1605) who was Lord Keeper of the Great Seal, Lord Chancellor of Ireland, Provost of Trinity College.

Archbishop-Chancellor Adam Loftus (1533-1605). The portrait is in Trinity College Dublin, as he was the first Provost.

The recent owners invested in upgrading and renovating the property. They carried out significant work in the 1990s. The website for MVK Architects tells us that the cementitious pebble dash was removed, and the house re-rendered in historically appropriate lime render which allowed the house to dry out.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The roof was refurbished with new timbers and blue Bangor slates, and four lead-clad dormers were added to provide light to the refurbished attic rooms. Kitchens and bathrooms were added to the house while preserving the proportions of the original rooms. The original fabric was preserved as much as possible including the joinery and ironmongery. Simple changes were made to the approach to the house along with tree planting to improve its setting in the landscape. Repairs to the outbuildings and walled garden boundaries were carried out as well as some careful repairs and stabilization of the adjoining castle. [2]

While half of the visitors wandered around outside, the rest of us were given the tour inside. It was a beautiful sunny day and I loved the grassy courtyard at the back of the house framed by outbuildings, where coffee and tea were provided. The sale advertisement tells us that one of the outbuildings close to the house houses the boiler and also serves as a laundry room.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

In the entry for John Barnewall (d. 1691) in the Dictionary of Irish Biography, a fascinating history is recounted:

Mary Warren, sister of Thomasine’s mother, had lived in exile with Thomasine’s parents at Bruges during the Cromwellian period. Charles II, also in exile, enjoyed their hospitality there for ‘near a month‘. For this, after the Restoration, Charles warmly expressed gratitude. ‘Lady‘ Mary Warren invoked the family’s service to curry favour with the king, in 1663 in respect to both the recovery of family property at Ballybrittan and securing an income for Thomasine and her siblings, and in 1683 in respect to a legal action taken by Thomasine and her husband against Nicholas [Taaffe], 2nd Earl of Carlingford, for £2,000 they claimed was owed to Thomasine’s late father since 1648.”

Thomasine’s father Anthony Preston was a Colonel from 1641 to 1642 in the Confederation of Kilkenny Forces. The Prestons and the Barnewalls were Catholic families. The Confederate of Ireland was a period of Irish Catholic government between 1642-1652. The Confederate controlled two thirds of Ireland from their base in Kilkenny. They professed loyalty to the English monarch.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

On the 13th of February, 1691, Ballybrittain Castle was sacked and burned. [3]

Under King James II, John Barnewall was created Baron of the Irish Exchequer in 1689. However, following the Battle of the Boyne, the bench again became exclusively Protestant and he was replaced in October 1690.

John Barnewell and Thomasine had one child, Mary (1683–1771). On her marriage in 1703, Ballybrittan passed to her husband John Barnewall (1672–1746), styled 11th Baron Trimlestown. His brother Matthias Barnewall, 10th Baron Trimlestown had been a Jacobite Colonel in the Battle of the Boyne and was attainted and his estates forfeited.

John Barnewall managed to get back his estates in 1697, which would have included Trimlestown in County Meath, but his plea to be restored to the title was turned down. Despite the outlawry and the attainder, however, the title continued to be widely used by and about John and his successors in the 18th century in all but the most official documents. [4]

The house at Ballybrittan which attaches to the old castle was built in the early 1700s. In an article in the Business Post [June 16th 2024] about the sale of Ballybrittan, Valerie Shanley writes that the house goes back even further, and she tells us the Mansard roof in the back, which is punctuated with dormer windows, is 17th century. I don’t know who built the house.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The advertisement of the house for sale by Roseanne de Vere Hunt of Sherry Fitzgerald tell us:

As the electric security gates open, you’re greeted by a tree-lined avenue, setting the scene for an unparalleled arrival experience. Drive up the gravelled avenue lined by rows of cherry trees which leads you to the impeccable Queen Anne double fronted façade. This is the most recent architectural evolution of the property dating back to the early 1700s and retains the original panelled door complete with original door furniture and transome light. Manicured box hedging frames the entrance, adding a touch of sophistication.

Although the Queen Anne façade reads as a two storey property, the actual house is three storey over basement with the windows in the third floor being Mansard 17th century style windows facing south and west, maximizing sunlight.”

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

We entered through the door from the back and not by the original front door.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

In the front hall Rosemarie had us don plastic shoe protectors, to protect the carpets for the new owners. The carpets were immaculately clean after over twenty years of family tread!

The house is beautifully decorated. The hand-carved early 18th century staircase is enhanced by matching dado rails along the walls. Most of the joinery in the house is original, restored to elegance by Rosemarie and her husband.

The floor in the front hall is covered with a beautiful array of tiles, in a tessellated pattern of interlocking shapes. Above is a decorative ceiling rose.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Graceful dado rails on the wall reflect the stair handrail. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The beautifully tessellated tiled front hall and original front door. Rosemarie showed us the delightfully large key! Ballybrittan, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The original front door in situ. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
The door lock has its original key and it still works. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Rosemarie showed us this little head outside that has been attached to the house. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

To the right is the library, with timber sash windows and original working shutters. The sale advertisement tells us that the room is fitted with reclaimed “cat’s paw wide plank oak flooring,” (this gets its name from groupings of small knots in the wood that resembles a cat’s paw print) and features an open fireplace with a stove set within a 17th-century fireplace originally from Strokestown House. The decorative wall panelling has gold leaf detail, the advertisement tells us. The window seats are also original.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
The chimneypiece comes from Strokestown Park. Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Chimneypiece from Strokestown Park, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A cosy reading nook, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Plan courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald.

The dining room features paintwork on the walls by Michael Dillon. We saw his work elsewhere, such as in Woodville in New Ross, another Section 482 property. Instead of the traditional acanthus leaves, the foliage is oak and beech leaves, such as those that grow at Ballybrittan.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie. The painted walls contained works by Michael Dillon, but the owners made sure that they could remove and take them with them, leaving the painted frames. [5]
Michael Dillon mural, Woodville House, County Wexford, May 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The doors and windows in the dining room have shouldered architraves. The impressive fireplace is hand-carved.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
The dining room, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Instead of the traditional acanthus leaves, the foliage is oak and beech leaves, such as those that grow at Ballybrittan. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The house’s sale advertisment describes the kitchen: “The kitchen, hand made by the late Clive Nunn, is a harmonious blend of traditional charm and modern convenience. Exposed timber beams, deep timber sash windows with working shutters, and built-in window seats reflect the 17th-century architecture. Modern amenities include a kitchen island and state-of-the-art appliances, all within a space that offers breathtaking, double aspect views of the stone courtyard and lawns. The basement is laid in flagstone flooring and is suitable for storage.

Not pictured is a stone arch now filled with brickwork, which would have led to the castle.

The wall mounted plate rack is by Hans Leptien, based in Cork. Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Shouldered architraves of the door frames in Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

A second staircase beside the kitchen leads to the upstairs drawing room, which is lined with late seventeenth century Baltic pine panelling. One can see the waviness in the glass of the windows, showing the age of the glass.

The upstairs drawing room, lined with Baltic pine panelling. Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
A cupboard next to the fireplace keeps items stored dry and warm. Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Original shouldered door frame, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
A lovely seat in the bathroom with a view, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The staircase facing the main Queen Anne hall door leads to the first floor accommodation. As one arrives on the landing, on the left is a large double bedroom complete with original early 18th century panelling, original fireplace and original built in storage cupboards on either side. All of the bedrooms have functioning fireplaces.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Plan courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

Straight ahead is the large family bathroom with a free standing slipper bath. To the right is the sitting room with the Baltic pine panelling.

Across the landing on this floor is the main bedroom suite with its original fireplace with black polished limestone surround. The adjoining dressing room features built in wardrobes, also by Clive Nunn of Kilkenny, while the en-suite bathroom boasts a freestanding rolled top bath, a traditional rain shower, wall radiators and a fireplace with a lime stone surround.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Beautiful curved handrail, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

The second floor in the south side of the house has two bedrooms with Mansard windows which allow the light to enter.

One bedroom features a fireplace with a freestanding stove, a walk-in dressing room with an en-suite bathroom including bath, bidet and separate shower.

The second bedroom on this floor was used as a nursery/sitting room/office. This room also has its original fireplace surround with a free standing stove.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

On the Queen Anne side, continuing up the staircase from the entrance hall is a double bedroom with Mansard and gable windows with its own private bathroom. This bedroom also has its original fireplace and a free standing stove.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

After our tour of the house we wandered into the garden, the sunny day made a perfect setting. However, it started to rain, as you can see from the raindrop on my photo lens!

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The grounds include lawns, box hedging, and mature trees. There’s a walled garden and an orchard featuring an array of eating apple specimen trees planted by Rosemarie’s husband Jerry, including Kerry Piplin, Lady Finger of Offaly, Cavan Sugarcane, Dick Davies, and Scarlet Crofton. A walkway on the grounds is lined with hornbeam hedges.

The stone outbuildings have restored roofs to ensure durability. There are stables and an enclosed stone wall paddock.

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The Landed Families blog tells us about the descendants of those early inhabitants of Ballybrittan. I’m not sure who lived in Ballybrittan after it passed to the Barons of Trimlestown.

Although the de jure 11th Baron recovered possession of his estates, there seems little doubt that he divided his time between Ireland and France, and his sons made their careers on the continent. His eldest son and heir, Robert Barnewall (c.1704-79), de jure 12th Baron Trimlestown, studied medicine and botany in France and returned to Ireland on his father’s death with a considerable reputation as a physician: skills which he made available to his Irish neighbours, whether gentle or poor. In later life he became an active advocate for the civil rights of his fellow-Catholics, and in the 1770s he was responsible for drafting a form of oath of allegiance which was acceptable to both the Government and to Irish Catholics. This opened up careers in the army to the Catholic population, and laid the foundation for further measures for Catholic relief which took place after his death. It must therefore have been something of an embarrassment to one so prominent in the Catholic cause that his two sons chose to conform to the Protestant religion.” (see [4])

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The Landed Families website lists the children of the 11th Baron Trimlestown:

(1) Robert Barnewall (c.1704-79), de jure 12th Baron Trimlestown;
(2) John Barnewall (c.1706-76), born about 1706; lived near Toulouse (France) and became a naturalised Frenchman, 1745; had licence to act as a land agent in France, 1746; married, 1740, in France, Lady Waters, but died without issue, 1776;
(3) Richard Barnewall (b. c.1708; fl. 1768) (q.v.);
(4) Thomasine Barnewall (d. 1788); married, 9 February 1729/30, Jenico Preston (1707-57), de jure 10th Viscount Gormanston, and had issue three sons and five daughters; died 16 January 1788 and was buried at Notre Dame aux Fonds, Liege, Flanders;
(5) Thomas Barnewall; an officer in French service; married there; died at the ‘battle of Lansfield.’
(6) James Barnewall; an officer in Spanish service; died in Spain;
(7) Margaret Barnewall (d. 1764); married, January 1736, James Butler (d. 1742), 8th Viscount Mountgarret, but had no issue; died June 1764;
(8) Anthony Barnewall (1721-39), born 1721; joined General Hamilton’s regiment of cuirassiers in the Austrian service, 1738 (Cornet, 1738; Lt., 1739); died as a result of his ‘headlong bravery’ at the Battle of Krotzka, where the Austrians were defeated by the Turks, 22 July 1739;
(9) Bridget Barnewall (c.1723-62), born about 1723; married, 6 April 1753, Robert Martin of Dangan (Galway) and Ballinahinch Castle; died 2 February 1762.
(10) Catherine Barnewall; died unmarried.

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie

The Landed Families blog continues: “Robert [(c.1704-79), de jure 12th Baron Trimlestown] was succeeded by the youngest son of his first marriage, Thomas Barnewall (c.1739-96), who lived in France until the French Revolution took place. In 1790 he left his French property in the hands of an attorney (from whom it was seized by the French state in 1793) and returned to Ireland. It was now more than a century since the attainder on the title of Baron Trimlestown, and with the incumbent a Protestant, the Government seems to have made no difficulty about reversing the attainder on the title, which was done in 1795, after which he was summoned to the Irish House of Lords as 13th Baron Trimlestown.

He died the following year, and the revived title passed to his nephew, Nicholas Barnewall (1726-1813), 14th Baron Trimlestown. He had been brought up near Toulouse in France, where he was a leading Freemason, and acquired through his marriage the Chateau Lamirolles, where he lived until the French Revolution. His wife having died in 1782, he then moved to England, where he seems to have lived in Bath until he inherited the Irish estates and peerage from his uncle. In 1797 he married for a second time, taking as his wife a young Irishwoman a third of his age [Alicia Eustace], and this would seem to have been the occasion for a major building campaign at Trimlestown Castle to turn it into a modern house. In 1800, however, Nicholas inherited the extensive estates of his distant kinsman, the 5th Viscount Barnewall of Kingsland, which included Turvey House, and soon afterwards Trimlestown seems to have been abandoned, perhaps with his alterations incomplete.” (see [4])

Nicholas Barnewall (1726-1813), 14th Baron Trimlestown, by Hugh Douglas Hamilton, 1790.

The house features in Essentially Irish, Homes with Classic Irish Style by Josephine Ryan. [6] She writes that the castle was leased to the Quaker family of Inman in around 1700. Joseph Inman (1725-1800) of Ballybrittan was the son of Joseph (1693 – 1740), and his sisters married into the Bewley family.

I should have asked Rosemarie from whom she purchased the property, as this would help me to complete the list of former owners. Certainly the newest owner has a wonderful property to enjoy!

Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
An orchard features an array of eating apple specimen trees including Kerry Piplin, Lady Finger of Offaly, Cavan Sugarcane, Dick Davies, and Scarlet Crofton. Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Ballybrittan, courtesy of Sherry Fitzgerald Rose de Vere Hunt and myhome.ie
Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com.

[1] https://www.dib.ie/biography/barnewall-sir-john-a10142

[2] https://mvkarchitects.com/ballybrittan-castle/

[3] https://mlwilson12.wordpress.com/2015/05/23/ireland-a-castle-the-abbey-and-those-lovely-mathews/

[4] https://landedfamilies.blogspot.com/2020/01/401-barnewall-of-trimlestown-castle-and.html

[5] http://dillonmurals.com/

[6] Ryan, Josephine, with photography by James Fennell. Essentially Irish. Homes with Classic Irish Style. Ryland, Peters and Small, London and New York, 2011.

Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly – section 482

Open dates in 2025: Jan 1- Dec 31, Mon-Fri, excluding Bank Holidays, National Heritage Week Aug 16-24, 12 noon-5pm [caution: when we visited during Heritage Week 2024, it was not open]

Fee: Free

Stephen and I visited Crotty Church in Birr during Heritage Week in 2024.

The Crotty Church on Castle Street, Birr, erected 1839 (image courtesy of Offaly Historical & Archaeological Society)
Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

However, the building was not open, and I suspect it never is, as it has been converted to apartments. Instead, we sat outside the building despite rain threatening, and listened to a talk organised by Aoife Crotty about the Crotty Schism (1820-1850) which was led by Father Michael Crotty (1795-1862). Disgusted at not having access to the building despite its Section 482 designation, I didn’t ask Aoife whether she is related to Father Michael Crotty! The speaker who gave the rather rambling talk did not introduce himself so I did not identify who he is, and I suspect he is an owner of the building. The Inventory tells us that the building was built in 1839. The Schism itself began in 1826.

The Inventory describes the former church: “Hipped slate roof with terracotta ridge tiles and cast-iron rainwater goods. Ashlar limestone to façade with tooled stone quoins, roughcast render to sides and rear elevations. Pointed-arched window openings to façade with tooled stone surrounds and sills with timber casement windows. Square-headed openings to sides and rear elevations with stone sills and timber casement windows. Tudor arched door opening with chamfered stone reveals, timber battened door, surmounted by fanlight. Side and rear site bounded by random coursed stone wall.

Although the building was built for a Catholic congregation originally, the followers of Michael Crotty, it is identified in the National Inventory as a Presbyterian former church. [1] The talk’s presenters were unable to tell us much about the history of the building.

Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There are a few graves outside the church, which seemed oddly random, and the talk’s organisers were unable to tell us about them. It looks like there may be gravestones but perhaps the burials did not actually take place on the grounds of the church.

Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Crotty Church, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Crotty began his position as a Catholic priest in Birr in 1821. With an increasing Catholic population, the congregation needed a new church.

He began his training to be a Catholic priest in Maynooth University but left, and finished his training in France. He obtained a position in Birr, but he became increasingly radical and he and his cousin, William Crotty (1808–56), also a Catholic priest, favoured Protestant rather than Catholic beliefs. They sought to set up a new church in a new building, and took many of their congregation with them. Lord Rosse of Birr Castle contributed toward the building fund, which was set up in 1808. Crotty fell out with the Building Committee and the Parish Priest, and in 1825 he was moved to Shinrone. However, in 1826 he was back in Birr causing trouble, arguing with the parish priest and attempting to take over the Catholic church building, staging a “sit in.” The new church still had not been built. It took the 66th Regiment of the army under Lord Rosse to evict Crotty and his followers!

Next Crotty rented a house where he held services. The building we visited was not the only one that the congregation occupied. One of the organisers of the talk pointed out another building across the road, an old warehouse, where Crotty also preached. This too is being converted to apartments.

The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The same owner owns The Maltings, also a Section 482 property, which is meant to offer tourist accommodation and therefore does not need to open to the public. However, any time I have tried to book this accommodation, several times over the years since 2019, the building is not actually offering tourist accommodation.

The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Maltings, Birr, County Offaly. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The organisers of the talk gave us a booklet about the Crotty Schism, written by Reverend Edward Whyte. Michael Crotty was increasingly erratic and eventually ended up in an asylum for the mentally ill in Belgium. William became a Presbyterian minister in Birr.

You can read more about the Schism in an article on the Offaly History Blog by Ciaran McCabe. [2]

[1] https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/14819102/birr-presbyterian-church-castle-street-townparks-bb-by-birr-co-offaly

[2] https://offalyhistoryblog.wordpress.com/2023/04/01/the-second-reformation-and-catholic-protestant-relations-in-pre-famine-ireland-with-a-case-study-of-the-crotty-schism-in-birr-by-ciaran-mccabe/

The lease of the church site from the Earl of Rosse signed 20 August 1837; co-signed by Michael and William Crotty (image courtesy of Offaly Archives and Birr Castle Archives)
Michael Crotty was one of two cousins — both Catholic priests — who were at the centre of the notorious schism in Birr, that resulted in their departure, as well as the departure of hundreds of local parishioners, from the Roman church. The community aligned itself with the Presbyterian Synod of Ulster, to Michael’s chagrin, resulting in his exile to England, where he converted to the Church of England. It was in England where he penned this account of the missionary efforts in King’s County, asserting his grievances about being wronged and his aspiration to return to Birr to realign his congregation towards Anglicanism. From the library of Offaly History, Tullamore.
Thomas Lalor Cooke (1792–1869), who initially supported the Crottys in their dispute with their bishop — including being charged, yet acquitted, of riot — and later provided a narrative of the schism in his Early history of the town of Birr, or Parsonstown (1875), a posthumously-published revision of an earlier work. From the library of Offaly History, Tullamore.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 for sale courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s

For sale October 2024, €1,650,000, courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s, 5 bedroom, 4 bath 641m2

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

Every once in a while a property is offered for sale which I think could become a Section 482 property. I can’t resist sharing this one, which is a joy. I have still to write of the other mill house, Millbrook, which we visited this year, and I have yet to visit Kilcarbry in Wexford, another corn mill, and Fancroft Mill in Tipperary.

The advertisement reads: “An attractive and exquisite residence sympathetically set within the fabric of an historic corn mill and magically situated within private grounds, which extend to the banks of the river Liffey and include the original cascading mill race canal. In all about 3 acres or 1.2 hectares and some 6,900 square feet or 641 square metres of accommodation.”

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

The ad tells us: “Historically and architecturally significant Yeomanstown Corn Mill has a rare magical quality and retaining much of the original industrial mill equipment makes a truly unique and enchanting residence. Milling activity on the grounds of Yeomanstown Corn Mill is thought to date back to the 14th-century. The current mill is largely late Georgian, circa 1810, in composition but likely incorporates earlier structures. A mill illustrated on maps back to 1654 in the mid-17th-century.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

The ad continues: “With the resplendent red brick exterior stretching up to four and five floors and abutting the cascading mill wheel canal Yeomanstown Corn Mill is enchanting and extremely picturesque. The restoration and conversion of the building into a home magically marries the rare original industrial charm with contemporary living requirements, to create an utterly enticing and fun home. The unashamedly industrial themed interior incorporates well thought out living spaces punctuated with original millstones, corn elevator shafts, massive ceiling beams, rustic timber staircases and ladders, white washed walls and varying ceiling heights to alluring effect.

I love all the wood inside and the beautiful stone flooring.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

A flagged stone reception hall retains the original corn milling wheels behind a glass wall and features the rustic mill staircase to the upper floors and leads to a study, an office, a spacious bathroom with a large bath, a shower and a sauna and two bedrooms, one with a hobbit like door to an enclosed walled garden.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

The first floor has a large open plan kitchen with a fully fitted kitchen, large breakfast counter worktop, industrial themed lighting and incorporating original mill fittings and equipment to great effect. It leads to a fine living room with a large cast iron stove and used as a dining and television space, off the kitchen there is a large pantry.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

The second floor has an incredible double height studio space with an evocative mix of tall white washed walls and exposed timber beams and boards and, again, incorporating original mill components. A large cast iron stove ample warms the space and there are two stairs to an upper mezzanine library floor. Itself opening onto the third-floor landing, which leads to the marvellously generous master bedroom suite with a large bedroom and interconnecting shower room and dressing room. There are two further bedrooms (on the second floor) one with a shower room ensuite and the other served by a second shower room on the landing hall. The final fifth or attic floor was previously utilised as an art studio space and is currently used as a gym and store.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

Bounding the river Liffey and including a fine riverbank stretch, one part opening into a natural river swimming hole or pool, the gardens are well-timbered and private. A striking cut-stone aqueduct bridge, Victoria Bridge, dates to 1837 and forms a great folly backdrop to the gardens. An original wrought iron bridge beside the impressive and large timber mill wheel leads to the gardens, abundant with wildlife and having an island like feel, being bounded by the canal and river. Although usefully also be accessed by vehicular gate. The mill wheel is thought capable of generating 3kw of electricity per hour, or more, in a recent appraisal.

I always think we should use water power again! I thought years ago I read that a hotel on Charlemount Street was going to tap into the Poddle below to generate electricity, but I never heard more about it – let me know if you know about it!

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

Yeomanstown is a highly fashionable area and links easily to Dublin city and airport. The nearby village of Caragh is quaint and includes a school, petrol station, grocery store, take-away restaurants and a hair salon. Naas town is just 7.7miles miles or 12.3km away and has a hospital and array of shopping, pubs, eateries and restaurants. Sallins village, just a 12 minutes drive away, provides train access with extensive commuter services into Dublin city.

Forgive me for once again not publishing about a Section 482 property – I am on a prolonged hiatus, as we were so busy trying to buy ourselves a small country hideaway for writing and growing fruit and vegetables. We are finally nearly completed the process, I think! Unfortunately we can’t buy something like this, an absolute dream home, but I’m delighted with what we have found.

Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.
Yeomanstown Corn Mill, Naas, Co. Kildare, W91AFH1 courtesy Lisney Sotheby’s.

Emo Court, County Laois – Office of Public Works

Emo Court, County Laois:

Emo, County Laois, June 2021. Unfortunately the stone lions which flank the front steps, carved by Richard Carter of Cork in 1854, were in boxes on the day we visited. [1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

General enquiries: 057 862 6573, emocourt@opw.ie

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/emo-court/:

Emo Court is a quintessential neo-classical mansion, set in the midst of the ancient Slieve Bloom Mountains. The famous architect James Gandon, fresh from his work on the Custom House and the Four Courts in Dublin, set to work on Emo Court in 1790. However, the building that stands now was not completed until some 70 years later [with work by Lewis Vulliamy, a fashionable London architect, who had worked on the Dorchester Hotel in London and Arthur & John Williamson, from Dublin, and later, William Caldbeck].

The estate was home to the earls of Portarlington until the War of Independence forced them to abandon Ireland for good. The Jesuits moved in some years later [1920] and, as the Novitiate of the Irish Province, the mansion played host to some 500 of the order’s trainees.

Major Cholmeley-Harrison took over Emo Court in the 1960s and fully restored it [to designs by Sir Albert Richardson]. He opened the beautiful gardens and parkland to the public before finally presenting the entire estate to the people of Ireland in 1994.

You can now enjoy a tour of the house before relaxing in its charming tearoom. The gardens are a model of neo-classical landscape design, with formal lawns, a lake and woodland walks just waiting to be explored.” [2]

The entrance front has seven bay centre with a giant pedimented Ionic portico. Andrew Tierney tells us that the portico was changed in 1822 from Gandon’s Doric order to a pedimented tetrastyle Ionic portico by the Dublin architects Arthur and John Williamson. [see 1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The view from the front of the house. The 3rd Earl of Portarlington planted the long avenue of Wellingtonia trees. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

We visited Emo during Heritage Week 2024 as some rooms were open to the public – finally! Despite the episode on television several years ago of “Great Irish Interiors” where the house was prepared to be open to the public, it is still not open to the public. And it is still not. Just a few rooms were open for Heritage Week. Major Cholmeley-Harrison will be tearing his hair out, if he has any left, in his grave – imagine giving the house to the state, and the state accepts it and then closes it for thirty years!

It was so exciting to go inside. My great uncle Father Tony Baggot was a novitiate there when the Jesuits owned the property.

Unfortunately I was not allowed to take photographs. I was not impressed by the reason given: it’s not finished yet. For goodness sake, who do the OPW think owns the house? We do! Apparently they had left it arranged as when owned Major Cholmeley-Harrison, opened it for a short while, and now they are removing traces of him from several areas. Poor Mr. Cholmeley-Harrison.

At Emo Park house, we had to wear these over our shoes, August 2024, Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Mark Bence-Jones tells us that the 1st Earl of Portarlington was interested in architecture and was instrumental in bringing James Gandon to Ireland, in order to build the new Custom House. The name Emo is an Italianised version of the original Irish name of the estate, Imoe. [3]

The Emo Court website tells us of the history:

John Dawson, 1st Earl of Portarlington [1744-1798] commissioned the building of Emo Court in 1790 although the house was not finally completed until 1870, eighty years later. Emo Court is one of only a few private country houses designed by the architect James Gandon. Others were Abbeyville, north Co. Dublin for Sir James Beresford [or is it John Beresford (1738-1805)? later famous for being the home of politician Charles Haughey] and Sandymount Park, Dublin for William Ashford. In addition, Gandon built himself a house at Canonbrook, Lucan, Co. Dublin.” [4]

Many of Gandon’s original drawings, plus those of his successors, are in the Irish Architectural Archive, 45 Merrion Square, Dublin. [5] The Emo Court website continues:

James Gandon was born in London of Huguenot descent. He studied classics, mathematics and drawing, attending evening classes at Shipley’s Academy in London. At the age of fifteen, James was apprenticed to the architect Sir William Chambers and about eight years later, set up in business on his own. His first connection with Ireland was in 1769 when he won the second prize of £60 in a competition to design the Royal Exchange in Dublin, now the City Hall. He was invited to build in St Petersburg, Russia, by Princess Dashkov, and offered an official post with military rank. However, he chose instead to accept an offer from Sir John Beresford and John Dawson, Lord Carlow, later 1st Earl of Portarlington, to come to Dublin to build a new Custom House. This was begun in 1781. The following year, Gandon was commissioned to make extensions to the Parliament House, originally designed by Sir Edward Lovett Pearce. Here he added a Corinthian portico as entrance to the Lords’ Chamber. After the Act of Union in 1801, the building became the Bank of Ireland. In 1785, Gandon was commissioned to design the new Four Courts. The third of his great Dublin buildings was the King’s Inns, begun in 1795. His few private houses were designed for patrons and friends.” [see 4]

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The website continues: “In the early 18th century, Ephraim Dawson [1683-1746], a wealthy banker, after whom Dawson Street in Dublin is named, purchased the land of the Emo Estate and other estates in the Queen’s County (Co. Laois). He married Anne Preston, heiress to the Emo Park Estate and fixed his residence in a house known as Dawson Court, which was in close proximity to the present Emo Court. His grandson, John Dawson, was created 1st Earl of Portarlington in 1785. Three years later, he married Lady Caroline Stuart, daughter of the [3rd] Earl of Bute, who was later Prime Minister of England. John Dawson commissioned Gandon to design Emo Court in 1790.

Stephen’s ancestor Earl George Macartney married another daughter of the 3rd Earl of Bute! Their mother was the wonderful Lady Mary Wortley-Montague whose husband was a diplomat and she wrote memoires of their travels. She even visited a harem.

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1718-1794), Wife of John Patrick Crichton Stuart 3rd Earl of Bute, print after Christian Friedrich Zincke, 1830s, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery of London, NPG D34619.
George, 1st Earl Macartney wearing the Order of the Bath by Thomas Hickey courtesy Christie’s China Trade Paintings selections from the Kelton Collection.

After Gandon died in 1823, to be buried in Drumcondra churchyard, the 2nd Earl of Portarlington, also John Dawson, engaged Lewis Vulliamy, a fashionable London architect, who had worked on the Dorchester Hotel in London and A. & J. Williamson, Dublin architects, to finish the house. In the period, 1824-36, the dining room and garden front portico with giant Ionic columns were built, but on the death of the 2nd Earl in 1845, the house still remained unfinished. It was not until 1860 that the 3rd Earl, Henry Ruben John Dawson [or Dawson-Damer, the son of the 2nd Earl’s brother Henry Dawson-Damer, who had the name Damer added to his name after the family of his grandmother, Mary Damer, who married William Henry Dawson, 1st Viscount Carlow] commissioned William Caldbeck, a Dublin architect, and Thomas Connolly, his contractor, to finish the double height rotunda, drawing room and library.” [see 4] Caldbeck also added a detached bachelor wing, joined to the main block by a curving corridor.

Emo Court, Photograph by Liam Murphy 2016 for Fáilte Ireland, Ireland’s Content Pool [6]. The windows in the single bay pavilions are pedimented and set in relieving arches.
Mary Seymour, who according to Mealy’s sales catalogue married John Dawson 1st Earl of Portarlington of Emo Court, by Thomas Heaphey, courtesy of Fonsie Mealy auction; I think she married George Lionel Dawson-Damer, son of 1st Earl.

Although it was not built during Gandon’s time, most of the house is as it was designed by Gandon, with some additions or changes. Mark Bence-Jones describes the house:

Of two storeys over a basement, the sides of the house being surmounted by attics so as to form end towers or pavilions on each of the two principal fronts. The entrance front has seven bay centre with a giant pedimented Ionic portico; the end pavilions being of a single storey, with a pedimented window in an arched recess, behind a blind attic with a panel containing a Coade stone relief of putti; on one side representing the Arts, on the other, a pastoral scene. The roof parapet in the centre, on either side of the portico, is balustraded. The side elevation, which is of three storeys including the attic, is of one bay on either side of a curved central bow.” [see 3]

The end pavilions are a single storey with a blind attic with a panel containing a Coade stone relief of putti; on one side representing the Arts, on the other, a pastoral scene. In the photograph is the Arts side, with an Irish harp and two figures unfurling the plans for the house. [see 1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The Coade stone relief of putti in a pastoral scene, representing Agriculture. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The side and garden front of the house. The side elevation, which is of three storeys including the attic, is of one bay on either side of a curved central bow. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
I love the way these balusters go droopy-bellied to match the angle of the stairs! Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Bence-Jones continues: “The house was not completed when the 1st Earl died on campaign during 1798 rebellion; 2nd Earl, who was very short of money, did not do any more to it until 1834-36, when he employed the fashionable English architect, Lewis Vulliamy; who completed the garden front, giving it its portico of four giant Ionic columns with a straight balustraded entablature, and also worked on the interior, being assisted by Dublin architects named Williamson. It was not until ca 1860, in the time of 3rd Earl – after the house had come near to being sold up by the Encumbered Estates Court – that the great rotunda, its copper dome rising from behind the garden front portico and also prominent on the entrance front, was completed; the architect this time being William Caldbeck, of Dublin, who completed the other unfinished parts of the house and added a detached bachelor wing, joined to the main block by a curving corridor.” [see 3]

Photograph from the National Library of Ireland, around 1900-1920, showing the garden front of the house. The 2nd Earl of Portarlington engaged Lewis Vulliamy (who designed the portico) and A. & J. Williamson, Dublin architects (who did the interior), to finish the house. In the period 1824-36 the dining room and garden front portico with giant Ionic columns were built, but on the death of the 2nd Earl in 1845, the house still remained unfinished. The rotunda was only finished in 1860.
The garden front of Emo with its pillared portico by Lewis Vulliamy. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Pillared portico by Lewis Vulliamy. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The garden front portico, probably part of the 1850s work by William Caldbeck, has portico and entablature of grey limestone and doorcase and window surrounds of yellow sandstone. This is set against a cement render. [see 1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Under the portico in the garden facing facade is a Coade stone frieze of a Dionysian procession. [see 1] Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Alexandra Octavia Maria Dawson-Damer née Vane (1823-1874), she married John Henry Reuben Dawson-Damer, 3rd Earl of Portarlington, of Emo in County Laois, and was daughter of Charles William Vane 3rd Marquess of Londonderry.

The website continues: “Emo court remained the seat of the Earls of Portarlington until 1920, when the house and its vast demesne of over 4500 ha, (11,150 acres), was sold to the Irish Land Commission. After the Phoenix Park in Dublin, Emo Court was the largest enclosed estate in Ireland. The house remained empty until 1930 when 150 ha., including the garden, pleasure grounds, woodland and lake were sold to the Society of Jesus for a novitiate. The Jesuits made several structural changes to the building to suit their purposes, including the conversion of the rotunda and library as a chapel. The distinguished Jesuit photographer, Fr Frank Browne lived at Emo Court from 1930-57. [7] A notable novitiate was the Irish author, Benedict Kiely.

The Jesuits remained at Emo until 1969 and the property was eventually sold to Major Cholmeley Dering Cholmeley-Harrison. He embarked upon a long and enlightened restoration, commissioning the London architectural firm of Sir Albert Richardson & Partners to effect the restoration.

In 1994, President Mary Robinson officially received Emo Court & Parklands from Major Cholmeley-Harrison on behalf of the Nation.” [see 4]

Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Unfortunately Emo Park house has been closed to the public for renovation for several years, and was closed on the day we visited in July 2021. I am looking forward to seeing the interior, which from photographs and descriptions I have seen, look spectacular. From the outside we gain little appreciation of the splendid copper dome.

In the meantime, you can read more about Emo and see photographs of its interiors on the wonderful blog of the Irish Aesthete Robert O’Byrne. [8]

There are beautiful grounds to explore, however, on a day out at Emo, including picturesquely placed sculptures, an arboretum, lake, and walled garden. Here is a link to a beautiful short film by poet Pat Boran, about the statues at Emo Park, County Laois. https://bit.ly/35uXPO1

Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The walled garden at Emo Court. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The walled garden at Emo Court. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Emo, County Laois. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] p. 336. Tierney, Andrew. The Buildings of Ireland: Central Leinster: Kildare, Laois and Offaly. Yale University Press, New Haven and London, 2019.

[2] https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/emo-court/

[3] p. 119. Bence-Jones, Mark. A Guide to Irish Country Houses (originally published as Burke’s Guide to Country Houses volume 1 Ireland by Burke’s Peerage Ltd. 1978); Revised edition 1988, Constable and Company Ltd, London.

[4] https://emocourt.ie/history/

For information on Gandon’s house in Lucan, see https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/11201034/canonbrook-house-lucan-newlands-road-lucan-and-pettycanon-lucan-dublin

Canonbrook, Lucan: “Detached multiple-bay two-storey over basement house, c.1800, on an L-plan. A handsome, substantial rural Georgian house which, though altered, retains its imposing form and feel, and is situated in mature grounds. Historically important as the former home of James Gandon.” Gandon is also said to have designed Primrose Hill House in Lucan, which is a section 482 property.

[5] https://theirishaesthete.com/2019/02/27/emo-court/

[6] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en/media-assets/media/81101

[7] http://www.fatherbrowne.com

[8] https://theirishaesthete.com/2016/03/14/of-changes-in-taste/

and https://theirishaesthete.com/2016/02/01/seen-in-the-round/

For photographs of the stuccowork, see https://theirishaesthete.com/2016/03/21/forgotten-virtuosi/

Damer House and Roscrea Castle, County Tipperary, Office of Public Works properties

General information: 0505 21850, roscreaheritage@opw.ie

Damer House Roscrea County Tipperary, photographer creator Kerry Kissane All around Ireland 2021 courtesy Tipperary tourism, Ireland’s Content Pool [1]

Finding ourselves with some spare time this Heritage Week (2024) after visiting Emo in County Laois, we drove over to Roscrea, to visit Damer House and Roscrea Castle.

From the OPW website https://heritageireland.ie/visit/places-to-visit/roscrea-heritage-centre-roscrea-castle-and-damer-house/:

In the heart of Roscrea in County Tipperary, one of the oldest towns in Ireland, you will find a magnificent stone motte castle dating from the 1280s. It was used as a barracks from 1798, housing 350 soldiers, and later served as a school, a library and even a sanatorium. 

Sharing the castle grounds is Damer House, named for local merchant John Damer [d. 1768], who came into possession of the castle in the eighteenth century. The house is a handsome example of pre-Palladian architecture. It has nine beautiful bay windows. One of the rooms has been furnished in period style.

The grounds also include an impressive garden with a fountain, which makes Roscrea Castle a very pleasant destination for a day out. There is also a restored mill displaying St Crónán’s high cross and pillar stone.

Damer House, Roscrea, 21st August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The castle and Damer house both sit inside bawn walls. Parts of the walls and outbuildings are in good condition, considering their age!

Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Damer House and Roscrea Castle sit within bawn walls, 21st August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
A reconstruction of what the castle would have looked like, in an exhibition in the Annex to Damer House.
Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Parts of the walls and outbuildings at Roscrea Castle are in good condition, considering their age! 21st August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The bawn of Roscrea Castle with “Ormond tower,” August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

This was originally the site of a motte and bailey fortification known as King John’s Castle. The original wooden castle was destroyed in the late 13th century and was replaced with a stone structure built in 1274-1295 by John de Lydyard. The castle was originally surrounded by a river to the east and a moat on the other sides. [2] It was granted to the Butlers of Ormond in 1315 who held it until the early 18th Century. The castle as we see it today was built from 1332.

Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Damer House and Roscrea Castle sit within bawn walls, 21st August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Roscrea Castle was sold to the Royal Hospital, Kilmainham, by James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormond in 1703. It was bought by the Damers, who built an elegant  three-storey nine bay pre-Palladian house in the courtyard in c. 1730.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us:

The Damer of folklore tradition is a conflation of the first Joseph [c.1630–1720] with his nephew John [1674-1768]. Thus, while Damer built himself a house in County Tipperary in the seventeenth century, the traditional stories about Damer’s Court (or Damerville) relate to a house built by John after his uncle’s death. John’s brother Joseph [1676–1737] built the Damer House in Roscrea, which was saved from demolition in the 1970s and subsequently restored. The Guildhall Library, London, has Damer correspondence among its Erasmus Smith papers.” [3]

In their book The Tipperary Gentry, Hayes and Kavanagh tell us that Joseph Damer (c.1630–1720) was born in Dorset in England in 1630. [4] He came to Ireland after the restoration of Charles II when land was being sold cheaply by Cromwellian soldiers who were given land instead of pay but did not want to remain in Ireland. Joseph Damer bought land in Tipperary, settling at Shronell, and established himself as a moneylender, lending to other landowners on mortgages. He also became involved in banking in Dublin. His nephew John (1674-1768) acted as his agent in Tipperary.

Joseph had no children and left his vast fortune when he died in 1720 to his nephews John (1674-1768) and Joseph (1676–1737), sons of his brother George Damer. He was so wealthy that he entered folklore with tales of how he gained his wealth, and he was compared to King Midas, as if everything he touched turned to gold.

Jonathan Swift wrote a ditty mocking Joseph Damer’s parsimony:

He walked the streets and wore a threadbare cloak

He dined and supped at charge of other folk

And – by his look – had he held out his palms

He might be thought an object fit for alms.

The Dictionary of Irish Biography tells us:

Despite his reputation for miserliness, Damer was a benefactor of presbyterianism and, by some accounts, unitarianism. He and his nephew John (1673?–1768) were among the trustees and managers of the General Fund established in 1710 to support the protestant dissenting interest; another fund was established in 1718 to support the congregation in New Row in Dublin.” [see 3]

The nephew John had no children and his brother Joseph (1676–1737) inherited. Joseph sat in the British parliament for Dorchester (1722–27) and became MP for Tipperary in 1735. He died two years later. He married Mary Churchill, daughter of John Churchill of Henbury, Dorset.

Robert O’Byrne tells us that his son Joseph (1717-1798) inherited the house and castle was later created the Earl of Dorchester. [5] He was an absentee landlord and his brother managed his Irish properties. He built a mansion named Damerville which was very grand, but was demolished in 1775. Their sister Mary married William Henry Dawson, 1st Viscount Carlow, who lived at Emo in Laois. It was her offspring who later inherited the Damer properties.

Joseph’s son John (1744-1776) married Ann Seymour, a sculptress. He spent all of his inheritance and killed himself. Subsequently it was his younger brother George who inherited the title to become 2nd Earl of Dorchester. None of Joseph’s offspring had children, however, so the properties passed to the 2nd Earl of Portarlington, a second cousin, who assumed the name Dawson-Damer.

Mary Seymour, who according to Mealy’s sales catalogue married John Dawson 1st Earl of Portarlington of Emo Court, by Thomas Heaphey, courtesy of Fonsie Mealy auction; I think she married George Lionel Dawson-Damer, son of 1st Earl.

Mary who had married the 1st Viscount Carlow had a son John Dawson (1744-1798) who became 1st Earl of Portarlington, Queen’s County. He married Caroline Stuart, daughter of the 3rd Earl of Bute and his writer wife, Mary Wortley Montagu. He commissioned James Gandon to built Emo Court in Queen’s County (Laois). It was his son John Dawson (1781-1845), 2nd Earl of Portarlington, who inherited the Damer fortune and lands, and added Damer to his surname.

John Dawson 2nd Earl of Portarlington by Count D’Orsay courtesy of National Portrait Gallery in London NPG D5547
Lady Mary Wortley Montagu (1718-1794), Wife of John Patrick Crichton Stuart 3rd Earl of Bute, print after Christian Friedrich Zincke, 1830s, courtesy of National Portrait Gallery of London, NPG D34619.

Damer House has a scroll pediment doorway and inside, a magnificent carved staircase. The Irish Georgian Society was involved in saving it from demolition in the 1960s. [for more photographs, see https://theirishaesthete.com/tag/damer-house/ ] The stairs and floor in the front hall are original to the house. The stairs are similar to ones in Cashel Palace, which was the Archbishop’s Palace, and is now an upmarket hotel. See the website of the Irish Aesthete for photographs of this staircase: https://theirishaesthete.com/tag/cashel-palace/

Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos inside Damer House! I took this one before the tour guide told us we can’t take them – I think it’s a shame and cannot see the sense in it so am publishing this. Damer House, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Damers didn’t live in the house and it was rented out to various tenants.

Robert O’Byrne tells us about the history of the house:

In 1798 the house was leased as a barracks and then the whole site sold to the British military in 1858. At the start of the last century the Damer House became ‘Mr. French’s Academy’, a school for boys, reverting to a barracks for the National Army during the Civil War, then being used as a sanatorium, before once again in 1932 serving as a school until 1956, then a library. By 1970 it was empty and unused, and the local authority, Tipperary County Council, announced plans to demolish the house and replace it with an amenity centre comprising a swimming pool, car park, playground and civic centre (it had been nurturing this scheme since as far back as 1957). The council’s chairman wanted the demolition to go ahead, declaring that ‘as long as it stands it reminds the Irish people of their enslavement to British rule,’ and dismissing objectors to the scheme as ‘a crowd of local cranks.’ In fact, most of the so-called ‘crowd’ were members of the Old Roscrea Society and in December 1970 this organisation was offered help by the Irish Georgian Society in the campaign to save the Damer House.

Robert O’Byrne suggests that the large annex to one side of Damer House was probably added during its time as use as a military barracks. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The side of Damer House, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Photographs from an exhibition of the restoration of Damer House in the Annex.
Photographs from an exhibition of the restoration of Damer House in the Annex.
Photographs from an exhibition in the Annex.

Upstairs in Damer House there’s also Exhibition space, but we did not have much time to browse.

Exhibition in Damer House.
“Angel” by Paula Rego.
“Kelp Cailleagh” after “Angel” by Paula Rego, by Rachel Parry. Archival print of Rachel Parry in a dress made of dried seaweed, photographed in Allihies by Thomasz Madajczak.
Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

After our tour of Damer House we crossed the yard for a tour of the castle.

Roscrea Castle fell into disrepair in the 19th century, and when the roof collapsed extensive repairs were needed in the 1850s. It was named a national monument in 1892, and is now under the care of the OPW. 

A reconstruction of what the castle would have looked like, in an exhibition in the Annex to Damer House.
A reconstruction of what Roscrea Castle would have looked like, in an exhibition in the Annex to Damer House.
Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The original entrance to the castle is to one side of where we enter today – you can see the drawbridge in the photograph above.

Information board inside the Roscrea Castle.
The original entrance to Roscrea Castle had a drawbridge over a moat. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The entrance to Roscrea Castle would have had a portcullis. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The entrance to Roscrea Castle would have had a portcullis. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
This is the door from inside Roscrea Castle, which leads to the drawbridge. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The Castle was located on one of the five main roads in ancient Ireland, and it was essential for the Normans to control this route. In 1315 King Edward II handed the castle over to James Butler, 1st Earl of Ormond.

Probably James Butler (c. 1305-1337), the 1st Earl of Ormond. St. Mary’s church, Gowran, June 2023. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The castle had many defensive features. The curtain wall is approximately three metres thick, which allowed for a wall-walk from which soldiers had a view of the surrounding area. The River Barrow formed a moat around the east face of the castle, and the Normans constructed a dry moat on the west side. The river was diverted in the 19th century.

Inside the castle reception area there’s a grille on the floor, which is the “oubliette” (from the French, meaning “to forget.”). However, in this case, people were imprisoned here between court dates, the guide told us.

Above the drawbridge is a machicolation from which boiling substances could be dropped, and there are also arrow loop windows for defence. The stairs, called “trip steps” were deliberately built of different heights and widths to impede the intruder. The spiral clockwise to make it more difficult for the enemy to fight his way up the steps.

Silver from nearby silvermines would have been stored in the castle.

Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Eoin Roe O’Neill (d. 1649), at the head of 1,200 men, stormed Roscrea in 1646 and reportedly killed every man, woman and child. The only survivor was the governor’s wife, Lady Mary Hamilton (1605-1680), who was a sister to the Earl of Ormond [married to George Hamilton, 1st Baronet of Donalong County Tyrone and of Nenagh, County Tipperary]. She was again forced to play host in the castle to O’Neill three years later which again ended by the guests looting everything in sight. [7]

Owen Roe O’Neill By Unknown, Van Brugens – Ulster Journal of Archaeology Volume 4, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=17552770.jpg
Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

Larger windows were a later addition. Originally there would be only small loopholes. Before glass, the larger windows would be covered with skins to keep out the draught. The inside would have been limewashed, the white walls would then brighten the interior. The fireplace would also provide light.

Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

The floor above the banquet room has three fireplaces. The large room was probably partitioned.

Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Inside Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

There’s a minstrils’ gallery. Minstrils were of the lower class and were kept away from aristocratic guests to prevent spreading any infection.

Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Exhibition panel at Damer House.
Exhibition panel at Damer House about excavation.

After our tour of the castle we had a little time to explore the gardens.

Roscrea Castle, photograph from Ireland’s Content pool, by Chris Hill 2014 for Failte Ireland.
Gardens at Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Gardens at Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
Exhibition panel at Damer House.
The back of buildings at Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com
The back of buildings at Roscrea Castle, August 2024. Photograph © Jennifer Winder-Baggot, www.irishhistorichouses.com

[1] https://www.irelandscontentpool.com/en

[2] See the blog of Patrick Comerford, http://www.patrickcomerford.com/search/label/castles?updated-max=2019-03-03T14:30:00Z&max-results=20&start=27&by-date=false

[3] https://www.dib.ie/biography/damer-joseph-a2390

[4] Hayes, William and Art Kavanagh, The Tipperary Gentry volume 1 published by Irish Family Names, c/o Eneclann, Unit 1, The Trinity Enterprise Centre, Pearse Street, Dublin 2, 2003.

[5] https://theirishaesthete.com/2013/09/23/bon-anniversaire/ and see my write-up about Emo Court, in OPW properties in Leinster: Laois.

[6] https://theirishaesthete.com/tag/damer-house/

[7] http://www.cahirhistoricalsociety.com/articles/cahirhistory.html